history – Page 10 – Snapping The Globe

Foggy Days

Standing atop the highest point in Cuttyhunk, I looked down past the oyster ponds to the beaches of the West End at a stone tower perched alone on an arm of the island.

With a little investigation, I learned that this stone tower was the Cuttyhunk Monument, dedicated to the island’s founder, Bartholomew Gosnold.

In 1602, Gosnold sailed toward the Americas with the intent to set up a new colony and trading post. After brief stops in Maine and Provincetown, he then landed on Elizabeth’s Isle, known today as the island of Cuttyhunk.

Gosnold, a lawyer, traveled in high circles, practicing law with Sir Walter Raleigh and Sir Walter Drake and enjoying regular performances by Shakespeare. It has also been speculated that he had ties to the Knights Templar and may have been trying to find their settlement on Narragansett Bay.

After a successfully harvesting a ton of sassafras, known for its healing properties, cedar timbers and furs, the settlement was disbanded and the group set off to return to England. Though Gosnold didn’t realize the colony that he set out to establish, he left his mark on the area. He is credited with naming Cape Cod because of the abundance of cod in its waters and Martha’s Vineyard for his deceased infant daughter and his wife’s grandmother, Martha Golding, as well as the wild grapes growing there. It is believed that he introduced the wheelbarrow to the New World and that Shakespeare’s play, The Tempest, may have been based on the documentation kept by Gosnold and his companions. Gosnold, continued his explorations and was part of the group responsible for the first English colony at Jamestown.

In 1902, construction of a 70 foot stone tower was initiated as a tribute to Bartholomew Gosnold on the spot where it was believed he set up the island’s first settlement. The monument was completed and dedicated on September 1, 1903.

When staying with my friend a couple of years ago, I read a small article about the the Cuttyhunk Monument. Remembering this article, I vowed that I was going to head out to the West End of the island to see this monument up close and personal.

One day, we set out for the long walk to the West End. Having spoken with a couple of other residents, we were warned to check the tide schedule as the water crosses the path between the two salt ponds, that leads to the beach. After we arrived, however, the fog rolled in quickly and we couldn’t see a thing.

A few more days passed and my time in Cuttyhunk was coming to a close. I was determined to make it out to get a better view of the monument. During the early morning, I woke up to a dense fog covering the island. Deciding that our adventure was just not going to happen, I closed my eyes and burrowed down deeper under the covers. Strangely enough, when I awoke later, the sun was shining and we decided to give it a try.

The day was hot and the dirt road a bit rocky and uneven. We continued our quest and as we came upon a hill, we were able to look through the clearing to a clear beach…and the monument! Wow! We were going to get a good view!

Trudging down the hill, we passed through the tall sea grass and tiptoed over the stones that separated the oyster ponds. We could see the monument to our left, but there was something else. The fog was rolling in!

Quickly, we made our way to the beach, walking in the direction of the monument and praying that this bout of fog was going to disperse. I have to say, I never gave up on that idea, but sadly, even though it thinned at times, it never really cleared. I guess the bright side was that I could still see the monument through the fog, yet, it wasn’t conducive to the beautiful photographs I had dreamed of. I must admit, however, this gloom, no matter how rarified, lent a creepy atmosphere, one that I could imagine the first settlers encountered when first stepping foot on this spot. I could almost imagine the native settlers standing on the point, waiting to greet the newcomers.

Sitting there on a large boulder, smelling the salty air, my imagination began to wander. What was it like landing here for the first time? Exciting, yet frightening, I am sure.

Wait, was that a ghost, standing on the point? The ghost of Bartholomew Gosnold?

All of this fog was really getting to me…it was just a fisherman hoping for some of the Atlantic Cod.

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Cuttyhunk Monument

Address: West End, Cuttyhunk, Massachusetts
Hours: 24 hours, daily and depending on the tides
Admission: free

The Little Church On the Hill

When you gotta pray, you gotta pray.

Most people of faith pray every day and most seek out the comfort of participating in a church service at least once a week, even when on vacation!

Just two doors down from my friend’s island home, is the Cuttyhunk Church. A small, simple structure, it always captured my attention when I walked by in the direction of the dock, the post office, the beach or where ever I was headed.

Never had I seen the door open and I wasn’t sure if visitors were welcomed outside of worship hours.

One day, after a trek to the west end of the island, my friend and I were returning home. Kathie, knowing my love of churches, glanced over at the now open door and suggested we take a look inside.

Built in 1881, the church is known as the United Methodist Church of Cuttyhunk. The church, however, is an interfaith church with Episcopal, Roman Catholic and inter-faith services led by worship leaders from different religious traditions. Only open during the busiest months of the year, July and August, when visits to the island are at its peak, the church bell calls the parishioners fifteen minutes before each Sunday service and can be heard throughout the island.

The church is also used by a variety of religious and community groups for various events, including weddings, baptisms, memorial services, AA and Al-Anon, the Cuttyhunk Historical Society, the Cruisers Community Chorus and other island events.

The interior was intimate and comforting with a pressed tin ceiling and walls and simple wooden benches spanning the width of the building. There are two beautiful shell mosaics designed by artist Manuel Sarmento, depicting the Madonna and St. Francis of Assisi in the front of the sanctuary. The simple crucifix hanging above the altar is made of brass and driftwood and was crafted by Wally Ketchum. What I loved the most, however, was the brightly colored stained glass panel situated above the doorway which embodies the fishing culture of the island.

As we wandered around the rear of the church, I noticed a small basket of clam shells with bright blue writing inside the curved portion of some of the shells. As I studied the framed printout, next to the basket, I learned that these shells are for recording prayer requests. At the end of the season, church volunteers set these shells afloat, encircled by island flowers with the belief that casting flowers into the nearby waters on departure assures one’s return and the answer to their petition. The next day, it was no surprise when Kathie plucked a bloom from one of her hibiscus bushes for me to toss into the waters from the ferry as I left the island.

Hopefully, this action will allow me to return to Cuttyhunk during the summer season and attend one of these church services!

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Cuttyhunk Methodist Church

http://www.cuttyhunkchurch.org/history.html
Address: 1 Broadway Cuttyhunk MA 02713
Services and Events: Thursdays (Summer Season), 1100, an hour of discussion and medition, 1930, Bible Study, 1830 Kids Movie Night. Sunday Services begin on the Sunday before the Fourth of July until Labor Day weekend. 0830, Episcopal Eucharist, 0930, Sunday School, 1030, Roman Catholic Mass, 1945, Hymn Sing, 2000, Evening Worship.
Contact information: For weddings and special gatherings, contact a church volunteer at 781-834-9552 or email puddingstone@live.com
Admission: free

All Washed Up

Everyone loves a good treasure hunt.

Especially on a beach…

The best part is that everyone’s idea of treasure is in the eye of the beholder.

Recently, with COVID19 restricting travel, I found myself with a lot of free time on my hands. Normally, in June, I am home only about a third of the month, with conventions, training and other events that take me away. This year, being unable to commute to work due to the loss of so many flights, I found myself wandering aimlessly around my home, looking for things to do, browsing my travel photos and just generally missing my usual lifestyle.

Sometimes, however, when one door is closed, another opens.

One of my best friends owns a house on the island of Cuttyhunk, just off of the coast of New Bedford, Massachusetts. Every year, she opens her house at the end of May for the summer and every year, the invitation is extended for me to visit.

Because of the ferry schedule, Cuttyhunk isn’t the easiest place to travel to and only once in recent years was I able to work it out. Two summers ago, a few of our friends and I, were able to go out for a quick weekend getaway. Though we enjoyed our visit, it was too early during the season (and still too cool) to see what summers on the island entail.

As I struggled with being home for such a great length of time, Kathie reached out and asked if I would be interested in keeping her company for a while on the island.

Mindful of the cool weather I had experienced beforehand, it was an exercise in balancing my summer wardrobe with pieces that could still keep me warm for those crazy days when the ocean winds decided otherwise.

After finally making my way north and an uneventful ferry ride, I learned that being there in mid June gives you a new perspective. Things certainly were different than on my first visit!

There was lots more activity. More people. More boats in the harbor.

And the best part, for a warm-weather loving person like myself, it was bathing suit and beach weather! Well…on most days!

There are quite a few beaches that surround the island and we made sure to take our daily walks on them all.

My favorite part was how much the beaches changed shape every day due to the tides, currents and waves. It was interesting to find that while some beaches were rocky one day, they were sandy the next and you never would know what might have washed in overnight.

Kathie was always on the lookout for beach glass. Always amazed at how she could spot the tiniest pieces, I instead focused my attention on driftwood and shells, with my ultimate goal of putting it together to form some sort of artpiece.

As we traversed the mile and half long by three quarters wide island, we poked the soft sand and seaweed, strolled along the waters edge and analyzed the tide pools along Channel, Church, West End and Barges Beaches. Crab traps lay half buried in the sand, and crabs and other crustaceans, both live and dead, small and large, could be spotted everywhere we walked. Barnacles and and long seaweed fingers clung to the side of the boulders and lengths of rope, of all circumferences and colors lay knotted around pieces of driftwood.

Rubber gloves, which may have fallen from fishing boats, could be spotted and they were usually displayed with great fanfare and sometimes obscene gestures. The fishermen, who mark their traps and fishing spots with buoys, were probably disappointed to find that many of their markers had washed ashore.

There were some interesting seashells and colorful granite rocks ground smooth from years of being subject to the pounding waves.

Looking out to sea, it was always interesting to see the many boats making their way to the island, some from the mainland and some from neighboring Martha’s Vineyard. As we walked along Barges Beach, I mistakenly took the remains of the fourteen barges that litter the shoreline as shipwrecks. In fact, these barges were buried here in 1949 to stabilize the land damaged by a 1944 Nor’easter. Though they are slowing eroding away themselves, they provide a natural habitat for some of the island’s creatures and a place to capture some unique beach shots.

As we walked near the sand dunes, we watched the sandpipers and seagulls soar around us, and the occasional rabbit hop our way.

Every day was a new day.

You never know what you were going to find!

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Cuttyhunk Island

The Symbol of the City

When you scan the skyline of Segovia, there are many steeples and belltowers.

One stands out above the rest.

The Gothic bell tower of the Cathedral of Segovia, the symbol of the city.

After my inspection of the cathedral, I had decided to skip the bell tower tour since I had a lot more to see within the city and didn’t want to have to return to the cathedral at a later time. Walking out of the cathedral and past the Plaza Mayor, I suddenly had a change of heart and ventured back.

Paying my admission, I hastily made my way to the Chapel of San Blas where the tour was to begin.

It was a few minutes after the hour and I ducked into the chapel, trying to join the group without disturbing the guide’s opening comments. After her introduction was complete, we were ushered to the corner of the chapel where the entrance to the bell tower staircase was hidden.

The original cathedral bell tower was constructed of American mahogany, but destroyed by fire in 1614. This ancient structure was the tallest in Spain, at a height of just over 354 feet. The tower was rebuilt with stone and began undergoing renovations in 2004, but it wasn’t until a full decade later that the tower was opened to tourists and visitors.

Beginning the tour, the guide led us up the winding, spiral staircase, until we reached our first stop, the Audiovisual Room. Taking a seat, we were immersed in a video with three dimensional recreations which explained the cathedral’s and tower’s history as well as information on the works of art and spaces within the temple. Before making our way to the stairway to begin the climb once again, we were able to take in the series of seventeenth century tapestries which tell the story of the general Pompey the Great, woven in Brussels.

A bit breathless, we reached the the next level of the bell tower, the Ringer’s House. Four rooms consisting of a living room, kitchen and two bedrooms, make up the former residence where the bell ringers and their families lived until 1950. Our guide broke down the daily lives of the bell ringer and what it entailed.

Climbing further still, we found ourselves in the Clock Room, where there are more of the tapestries from the life of Pompey the Great. Named for the clock located inside (similar to the one located in Puerta del Sol in Madrid), which was manufactured in 1882 in Strasbourg, you can understand how the bell ringer performs his job with access to the bells through strings connected to the bell tower from his house. We were also rewarded with a reproduction of the sounds of the bells that originally rang out.

Finally, after one last push up the remaining of the tower’s 308 stairs, we arrived at the bell tower. From this highest viewpoint in the city, we were rewarded with outstanding panoramic views of the Aqueduct, numerous Romansque churches and their own towers, the Alcazar, the city wall, the Jewish cemetery and the monasteries and convents as well as the nearby mountains and plateaus. More importantly, it is here that the bells that ruled the city’s life are located.

Staring at these carillons from the inside of the tower is certainly a unique perspective and some of the ten bells date back to the eighteenth century. Each of the bells can be identified by the placard located near the bell which apprises visitors of the year it was cast, its weight and diameter.

While the bells no longer resonate from this important tower, if you close your eyes and use your imagination, you might hear a slight whisper from the past, breaking the silence of the city’s skies.

Bong…

Visitors to Segovia will have many opportunities to see the city from different perspectives. Brave the climb and make sure that this is one of them!

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The Bell Tower of the Cathedral of Segovia

https://catedralsegovia.es/torre/
Address: Calle del Marques del Arco 1, Segovia, 40003
Tour Hours: Daily, November 1 to March 31, 1030, 1200, 1330 and 1630. April 1 to October 31, 1030, 1200, 1630, 1800 and 1930. Night tours, Friday, Saturday and Sunday, May to October, 2130.
Admission: 3€

The Last Claim in Spain

Some cities love to boast that they have the first cathedral built within it boundaries.

Not Segovia.

The Spanish city’s religious claim to fame is that it has the last Gothic cathedral to be built in Spain.

Started in the 16th century, the Segovia Cathedral was not finished until 1768. Sitting proudly on the Plaza Mayor, it maintains the spot where Isabella I was proclaimed the Queen of Castile.

As I strode into the Plaza Mayor, the cathedral is what commanded my attention. There were some beautiful architectural elements in the square, but it was the grand church’s Gothic exterior that commanded my attention.

After paying my admission, I made my way around the massive church designed by Juan Gil de Hontanon and constructed by his son Rodrigo. Within its enormous interior, the outer fringe of the cathedral is lined with more than twenty chapels illuminated by 16th century Flemish windows. Though each chapel was unique and interesting in its own way, my overall impression of the cathedral was one of which was impressive but rather stark compared to other cathedrals I have visited. Some of the chapels, however, stood out more than others with elaborate decoration and golden altars.

The Blessed Sacrament Chapel, one of the most outstanding in the church, which was created by Churriguera and featured stained glass windows, carved choir stalls and 16th and 17th century paintings. The third chapel on my right from the entrances, the Capilla de San Cosme y San Damian, displays a wooden lamentation group by Baroque sculptor Gregorio Fernandez.

The large, 15th century Gothic choir, in the center of the church, was quite mesmerizing with its elaborately carved stalls and old manuscripts. Directly across from the choir, protected by bars, was the high altar with an 18th century altarpiece by Sabatini. Although you can peer through the barricade to see the specifics of the altar, it is a pity that the overall beauty cannot be fully appreciated from afar.

Through an elaborate doorway, I made my way to the late Gothic cloister, which dates back prior to the cathedral’s beginnings. Strolling through the peaceful halls and admiring the maze of green gracing the center, it was in one of the corners that I found the tombs of Juan and Rodrigo Gil de Hontanon, the men responsible for the beautiful place that I was exploring.

Beyond the cloister, within the first floor of the Chapterhouse, I discovered a small museum of religious art. There were some compelling paintings, jewelry and a collection of rare antique manuscripts. The Chapterhouse itself was a rich display of of paintings and tapestries and offered an array of religious vestments and tapestries on the second floor.

The rear of the cathedral was open and I was able to inspect the gated area to examine both the exterior architectural features and the tombstones set into the terraced area.

As I walked through one of the chapels at the rear of the structure, I spied a sign which advertised guided tours to the cathedral’s belltower. Undecided about the time it was scheduled (I had a lot more ground to cover), I left the church and made it as far as the Plaza Mayor’s center. It was only 35 minutes until the beginning of the tour…how could I not take advantage of the opportunity to see the cathedral in its entirety? Heading back to the cathedral, I paid for the tour and hastily made my way to the starting point, where the guide was already addressing a small group. Listening to the guide’s opening oration, I was eager to see what was in store for our group. Good views and a lot of information I hoped.

To be continued…

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Segovia Cathedral

https://catedralsegovia.es/
Address: Calle del Marques del Arco 1, Segovia, 40003
Hours: November-March, 0900-1830, Monday through Saturday. April-October, 0900-2130, Monday through Saturday. Closed Sundays.
Admission: General, €3.00, Seniors (ages 65+), €2.50, Children (under 10 years), free.

Thanks To Mussolini

Remus and Romulus were born to Rhea Silvia (the daughter of a king) and the war god, Mars. There were ordered to be drowned in the Tiber River, but the trough in which they were placed floated down the river and came to rest at the site which would later become Rome. Finishing its journey at a sacred fig tree, the Ficus ruminalis, a she-wolf and a woodpecker, both revered by Mars, suckled and fed them until they were found.

After my visit to Segovia recently, I learned something. On my next visit to Rome, there is a place that I need to visit.

The Capitoline Museums.

Sure, I always enjoy the historical artifacts displayed in museums, especially in Rome, but there is one thing in particular that I want to see.

The famous bronze statue of the Capitoline Wolf with Romulus and Remus beneath her belly.

The Capitoline Wolf represents the origins of Rome and depicts the goddess Luperca suckling Romulus and Remus. The original was placed in the Palazzo dei Conservatori on the Campidoglio in Rome in 1471 but was then later moved to the Capitoline Museums. Today, a copy is situated on a pillar at the northern corner of the Palazzo Senatorio.

Crazy thing is that as many times as I have been to Rome, I was never aware that this statue existed. As I stepped off of the bus in Segovia, however, after the amazing aqueduct, a copy of this statue was one of the first things I saw.

Interesting enough, the original statue, located in Rome, was favored by Benito Mussolini, the Italian dictator. Upon his orders, duplicates were made and distributed to cities throughout the world, including Argentina, Austrailia, Belgium, Bolivia, Brazil, Canada, Chile, China, France, Guatemala, Hungary, Italy, Japan, Libya, Moldova, New Zealand, Norway, Romania, Sweden, Switzerland, Tajikistan, United Kingdom, United States, Uruguay and yes…Spain.

The statues were dedicated to the city of Segovia in 1974 as well as Merida, and Tarragona and today is a popular landmark…one of the first things visitors to the city see.

So don’t miss it. See it in Segovia. See it in Rome. See it in Paris. See it in Bucharest. See it…well…in many place, thanks to Mussolini.

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Statue of Remus and Romulus

Address: Plaza del Azoguejo 1, 40001 Segovia Spain
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free

The Inspiration

As a child, one of my favorite memories was waiting for the Wonderful World of Disney movie on Sunday nights. Seeing Tinkerbell flying onto the screen in front of the Disney Castle and all of the fireworks exploding behind it, was breathtaking! The anticipation was only second to Christmas Eve when we eagerly awaited the arrival of Santa and the presents under the tree the next morning!

The mere sight of this castle, in even a picture, was enough to trigger fantasies of not only what the movie would be that week, but also what it would be like to live in or even visit this castle. Castles were what our fantasies were made of…princesses, knights in shining armor and space to run freely and have spectacular games of hide and seek.

Visitors to Disney World have often wondered how Walt Disney, the theme park’s creator, conceived and brought to fruition, this beautiful castle. Had he seen one like it somewhere?

Visitors to Segovia, go to see not only the city’s amazing aqueduct, but the beautiful castle (or alcazar) that is rumored to have been Walt’s inspiration for Disneyworld’s castle.

Now, I’m a bit of a sucker for a castle. I love not only the history and the architecture, but the princess that resides in every woman, imagines that one day she is going to wander the halls of a castle in a foreign land, doling out orders to her ladies in waiting and whiling away the hours sewing, painting, dancing and waiting for her prince. So, when I have an opportunity to see an amazing “real-life” castle, I take it!

Walking through the city of Segovia, past the aqueduct, the Plaza Mayor and the many beautiful churches and cathedrals, I headed to the outermost edge of the city. I wanted to see the castle of Segovia.

Originally built as a fortress in the 12th century, it was later used as a royal palace, state prison, Royal Artillery College and military academy and is well known throughout Spain for its distinctive architecture. It was one of the favored residences of the monarchs and a key fortress in the defense of the kingdom with its location on the granite cliffs at the convergence of the Clamores and Esrema rivers. There are many secret passages that connect to these rivers and it is the location where Isabella was crowned in 1474 as the Queen of Castile and Leon.

And yes, as I approached the castle, I could truly see the similarities to what I had once set my eyes upon on visits to Disneyworld and on Sunday night television! It is a truly fascinating spectacle and I was excited as I entered the ticket office at the forefront of the property. Ticket in hand, I crossed the drawbridge and began my exploration.

The castle is now used as a museum and a military archives building and when you enter, there are many different options of the areas to seek out. Follow the signs, as your visit is self guided, and take each space, one by one.

The highlights of the castle are its keep, its square with four towers and the hall raised by King John II of Castile which first served as a Weapons room. There are magnificent courtyards filled with statues and artillery and the Cellars in which the foundations of the castle can be found.

The Hall of the Palace contains suits of armor and leads to the Hall of the Galley with its magnificent stained glass windows representing Henry III of Castile and his family and Henry II of Castile with scenes of the death of Peter I and John II. A beautiful painting depicting the coronation of the queen Isabella I of Castile decorates one of the walls, but it is the coffered ceiling that takes center stage. The room was built by the queen of Catherine of Lancaster in 1412.

The Throne Room contains portraits of the kings, the coat of arms of the Catholic Monarchs, the throne seating and leads to the Hall of the Fireplace with its tapestry of Our Lady’s betrothal. The Royal Chamber’s main focus is the brocade covered bed, woven in gold, along with scenes of the family life of the Catholic Monarchs.

The Hall of the Kings truly took my breath away with its gold inlaid ceiling set with statues corresponding to the Kings of Asturias, Leon and Castile. There is a portrait of Philip II and two portraits of his wives, Elisabeth of Valois and Anna of Austria.

Sweeping through the Room of the Belt with its tile walls and its elaborate blue and gold ceiling, I was elated to peer through a screened partition to spy the Chapel, which was also accessible through the next hallway. This was the location where the kings and queens of the castle celebrated mass.

Finally, I ventured into the Weapons Room or Armory. The Alacazar had housed the armory of the House of Trastamara since old times and was the model of the collections of weapons that were finally collected into the Royal Armory of Madrid. Out of the back of the Weapons Room, there is a large terrace which offers views of the river below and the nearby Museo Real Casa de Moneda de Segovia and the Convento de San Juan de la Cruz.

Following the signs, I retraced my steps to the front of the castle to climb the 152 steps of the tower of John II of Castile. The large panoramic terrace gave me outstanding views of the entire city and close up views of the construction of the towers and the castle. As I stared out upon the city, my inner princess reared her head and I felt that Sunday night Disney excitement. That inner princess suddenly felt as though she was staring out on her kingdom…one she was about to set foot back upon and thoroughly discover what it was all about!

Very inspiring.

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Alcazar of Segovia

https://www.alcazardesegovia.com/
Address: Plaza Reina Victoria Eugenia, s/n, 40003 Segovia, Spain
Hours: October to March, 1000-1800 and April to September, 1000-1900. Closed December 25, January 1, January 6.
Admission: Adults, €5.00, Seniors €3.45. Citizens of the European Union can visit for free on Tuesdays from 1400-1600.
Getting There: Train, from Chamartin station in Madrid, http://www.renfre.com or http://www.thetrainline.com. By bus, from Moncloa metro station (Madrid), http://www.omio.com. After arriving in Segovia, bus #11 (2€) stops at the aqueduct and its about a 15-20 minute walk to the castle on the northwest side of the city.

Stunning Segovia

When you want to take a day trip from Madrid, there are many options.

Toledo. Pedraza. Consuegra. Valladolid. Segovia (to name just a few…)

The last one intrigued me. When I was last visiting with a friend, who is from Madrid, she talked a lot about Segovia and its aqueduct.

This, I had to see!

Rising early, I headed by metro to Chamartin train station. It was fairly easy to purchase my ticket and find my gate and train. A short, thirty minutes later, I was arriving in Segovia. Making my way to the front of the train station, I found bus #11, which was how I had planned to reach the city center and the famed aqueduct.

The bus ride was quick but the city scapes that we drove past were uninspiring, leaving me to wonder for a split second if I had made the wrong decision by traveling here. But, then, in the distance, there it was.

The aqueduct and the old city set up on a hill.

Jumping out of the bus, I could not contain my excitement, gazing up at the ancient Roman aqueduct, built almost 2000 years ago, the city’s most important architectural landmark. Snapping photo after photo, I finally made my way out of the traffic circle and walked along the length of the beautiful structure. One of the best preserved Roman aqueducts in the world, it has become an icon and one of the main attractions that lures visitors to the city. Covering a distance of 17 km, reaching a height of 92 feet (at its highest point) and containing 167 arches, this feat of age-old engineering was used to transport water from the Fuenfria spring to Segovia. The most amazing part of this venerable structure is that it defies the laws of gravity, standing on its own, with no kind of mortar used in its construction.

An interesting legend about Segovia’s Aqueduct is that it was the result of a pact between a girl and the devil in which she offered him her soul in exchange for water to reach her house before the crack of dawn! That devil must have been a talented engineer!

The aqueduct stretches down Calle de Ruiz de Alba and as I left the Plaza del Azoguejo to follow it’s footprint, I got my first glances of the city’s homes, businesses and other architectural features. Returning to the plaza, there were many tourists admiring the city’s coat of arms and a statue of the Blessed Virgin, housed in a niche the upper reaches of the aqueduct. There are two niches still visible, one on each side. The one housing the Virgin de la Fuenclisla, once held an image of Hercules, the purported founder of the city and the other, once held a statue of Saint Stephen. It is interesting to note that on the fourth day of December each year, the day of Saint Barbara, the patron saint of artillery, the local military drapes the image of the Virgen in a flag.

For those that are interested in learning more about the aqueduct, an interpretation center is housed in Segovia’s former mint, Real Casa de Moneda. The exhibit explains the connection between the mint and the aqueduct in that coins minted in Segovia used the aqueduct as a mint mark.

Finally, after soaking it all in, I climbed the stairs alongside the aqueduct, pausing for one long last look, before making my way into the historic part of the city.

What a site!

When my breath catches in my throat, I know that I am looking at something truly remarkable! This was one of the most amazing pieces of architecture and if this was the opening bid, what else was I going to find in this stunning city?

I couldn’t wait!

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Segovia

https://www.esmadrid.com/en/trips-segovia?utm_referrer=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.bing.com%2F
Address: Plaza del Azoguejo 1, 40001 Segovia Spain
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free
Getting There: Train, from Chamartin station in Madrid, http://www.renfre.com or http://www.thetrainline.com. By bus, from Moncloa metro station (Madrid), http://www.omio.com. After arriving in Segovia, bus #11 (2€) stops at the aqueduct.

Olé!

The dance between bull and matador, in a ring surrounded by thousands of cheering spectators, is a sport of the ages.

Olé!

The dance floor that this spectacle takes place on is within a bullring of which there are many.

The most prestigious bullring in the world, Plaza de Toros Las Ventas, can be located in Madrid, Spain. Completed in 1929 and inaugurated in 1931, it was designed in the Moorish style by architect José Espeliú after the determination that the former main bullring at the Carratera de Aragon was not sufficient to seat the crowds usually in attendance.

Today, it is one of the most popular tourist attractions in the city, inviting millions of visitors each year to explore the venue when the excitement of the sport is not at its height. With a seating capacity of just over 23,000, it is the largest arena in Spain and the third largest in the the world. It is also extremely popular with local and visiting bullfighting enthusiasts during the bullfighting season.

My experiences with Las Ventas date back many years. My interest in attending a bullfight was piqued when I spotted a poster while sightseeing within the city on my first visit. Heading there that evening, I found it to be quite the spectator sport, full of breath holding excitement! A few years later, remembering the event, I took my son to the Las Ventas to see the iconic arena and to visit the Bullfight Museum. Trying on costumes and seeing the arena from the inside gave him an idea of what it might be like to experience the unique tradition. Another few years passed and I headed once more to the arena, with friends, to see another bullfight. This one was quite memorable with the bull jumping the fence and the patrons scattering!

When I found myself back in Madrid recently, I decided that a trip back to Las Ventas to visit the museum would be a stimulating way to fill the afternoon. It is always awe-inspiring to see this beautiful arena up close after emerging from the neighboring metro station, and set against a bright blue sky, this time was no exception. Of course, on a day when a bullfight is scheduled to take place, the place exudes excitement and is filled with hordes of people, anxious to enter and see the spectacle, but without the crowds, it makes it easier to appreciate the building itself and the beautiful statues, honoring the art of bullfighting which grace the premises.

Though this day was a quiet one for the arena, I was excited to visit the museum once again. After paying my entrance fee, I was given an audio guide which would assist me on my exploration.

Starting at the Puerta Grande (Door of Triumph, also called the Gate of Madrid), I gazed upward at the keyhole entryway, the place where all bullfighters dream of exiting while being carried on the shoulders of their adoring fans. In the vestibule, there is a replica of the inaugural poster dating back to 1931 which marked the occasion when eight matadors took part in the first bullfight of Las Ventas on June 16 as well as plaques commemorating the great matadors and patrons of the sport.

Mounting the stairway, I made my way to the upper levels of the arena offering close and personal looks of bulls preserved by taxidermy. Standing next to these monstrous beasts, bereft of life, it is quite difficult to imagine yourself in the ring alongside the living, snorting, stomping, angry being that is anxious to impale you with its razor-sharp horns and trample your body until it is a mangled mess.

Stepping out onto the terrace, I was offered a great perspective of the plaza surrounding Las Ventas, but the best views are achieved by turning and setting your eyes upon the building itself. It is here that those most interested in the architectural details of the building can get an intimate look as well as come to grab a breath of fresh air, take a quick smoke or steal a bit of time with their loved one.

My audio guide then led me into the main arena, the area where the all of the action takes place. Walking through these portals, I remembered the first time I ever entered, seeing the dance floor of the bull and matador and scouring the hot afternoon for my assigned seat, which was purchased without any knowledge of where I would be sitting. The seats in the circular arena are characterized by how close or how far they are to the action and by three very important things if you are seeing a fight during the afternoon…shade (sombra), semi-shade (sol y sombra) and sun (sol). You can imagine, that without any purchasing knowledge I did not end up, in the shade. At first, I was relieved to find that I was in a semi-shade seat. For a while, I was in the shade, but as the sun made its way across the Spanish sky, it went in the direction other than where I wanted, making my seat a sun seat! With my entertainment, I also got a sunburn!

This time around, I was here for an architectural experience, but as I stepped into the space, I discovered that the usually impressive view was obscured by a large domed tent sitting in the middle of the ring. I guess there was a concert or event that was going to be held here, but it was quite disappointing to have the usual spectacular view thwarted by this plexiglass eyesore.

Nevertheless, I made my way around the seating area, checking out the Royal Box with its Mudéjar architecture, the clock on the other side of the ring and the ring’s five gates and the ones where the bulls enter the area, called the toriles. Making my way through these gates, I was able to see where the bulls are watered and housed prior to the fight as well as the infirmary. It was also here that I encountered a Virtual game which puts the participant in the ring with a bull. After watching two gentlemen enjoy the fabricated interaction, I decided that I needed to don the goggles and see what this was all about. I have to admit, this bull charging me was so lifelike, I really wanted to run!

Moving on, it must have been my religious side and love of churches that led me to the chapel. Next to the bullring, this is the most significant part of Las Ventas for a bullfighter. Though quite small, it is where the matador mentally prepares and prays for his well being during his upcoming challenge. This Baroque, historic place of worship is dedicated to the Virgen de la Paloma, the patron of Madrid and the Virgin of Guadelupe, the patron of Mexico.

Finally, I made my way into the museum which offers a large collection of paintings, busts and matador clothing items. The best part, however, was when I was leaving. The gentleman at the front desk, who took audio-guide, offered to give me a poster which I graciously accepted. In fact, I shamelessly asked him for another for my son who had visited before. He gave me not one more, but two more! After taking a minute to open it, I learned that it was an old bullfight poster, marking an important fight during the previous season.

Doesn’t every wall need a bullfight poster?

Mine does.

Olé!

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Plaza de Toros Las Ventas

https://lasventastour.com/es/la-plaza/las-corridas-de-toros/
http://www.las-ventas.com
Address: C/ Alcalá, 237, 28028 Madrid
Hours: January to June, October to December, 1000-1800, July to September, 1000-1900, daily. Days of bullfights, tours close three hours before the start of the bullfights. Closed December 25 and January 1. Ticket office, opening Days: 1000-1400, 1700-2000. Bullfight Day: Uninterruptedly from 1000 until the start of the bullfight.
Admission: Adults, €14.90, Students and Retirees, €11.90, Reduced Price (Children under 12 years old), €5.90, Children under 5 years, free. The ticket includes the Bullring, Museum and the Virtual Reality Experiences. An audio-guide is included and available in 10 different languages (Spanish, English, French, Italian, German, Portuguese, Japanese, Korean, Russian and Chinese).
Getting There: Subway, Ventas (line 2). Buses, 12, 21, 38, 53,106, 110, 146

The Second Dome

Churches, cathedrals and basilicas are a dime a dozen in Rome.

Most are beautiful. Some, not so much. Aside from these two differences, what sets many of them apart?

As I was walking down Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, it was getting dark and I had plans to meet a friend for dinner still some distance away. As I glanced at the building I was passing, I noticed that it was the Basilica of Andrea della Valle.

It would have to be a quick visit, but I was willing to walk back to my hotel a little faster or risk being a bit late for dinner with my friend, just to take a quick peak at this basilica.

The Basilica of Andrea della Valle’s origins date back to the Theatines, a religious order founded in the 1524. In 1582, the order was bestowed a palace and a small church with the obligation of building a large church dedicated to St. Andrew, the patron saint of Amalfi. The construction of this church was begun in 1590 and it was the desire of Cardinal Alessandro Peretti for the basilica to have the second largest dome in the city, behind St. Peter’s Basilica.

As the decoration of the basilica was undertaken, the decision of which artist would ornament the grand dome was a difficult one. Two artists were selected due to the inability of the Cardinal and the Pope to choose one over the other, with Dominichino assigned to the apse half dome and Giovanni Lanfranco to the main dome. The beautiful frescoes on the apse half dome leading to the main dome are what stopped me in my tracks when I entered the church. This is what truly sets this church apart from others.

There are exquisite chapels on each side of the basilica with works of art by important sculptors and painters, some, the pupils of masters, Bernini and Michelangelo. In fact, the Strozzi Chapel was probably designed by Michelangelo, although executed by Leone Strozzi. There are many Cardinals buried within these chapels as well as the bishop of Carcassone, France, Annibale Rucellai. The church also houses the tombs and cenotaphs of Popes Pius II and Pius III, the tomb of Giovanni della Casa, author of Il Galateo and the tomb of the martyr Saint Fortunatus in the Chapel of the Madonna della Purita.

It is important to check out the antique wooden crucifix in the Chapel of the Crucifix and the thirty-six stop pipe organ housed in the gallery. Built in 1845, it is still in use and can often be heard on weekday afternoons, when its organist practices.

And that was it.

As quickly as I came, I went.

Was worth being late for dinner? Absolutely!

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Sant’Andrea della Valle

http://santandrea.teatinos.org/
Address: Vidoni Square, 6, 00186 Rome
Hours: 0730-1930, daily
Admission: free
Getting There: Metro, Spagna, walk 17 minutes, Metro, Barberini, walk 19 minutes