Many churches were closed at the early hour when I made my way through the city. Many were only open at certain times. Of course, I was able to visit the cathedral, but I wanted there to be more.
After more misses than hits, I was finally able to find a church with some historical significance that was open for visitation.
The Church of San Martin.
In the prime location of the Plaza de Medina del Campo, there is an important Romanesque church, built in the 12th century and known for its unique design and structure. Its tower, which was designed in the Romanesque-Mudejar style is topped by a Baroque spire and the body of the church offers alluring porticos on three of its sides and a large fortified tower, the Torreon, built in the 14th century.
Plaza de Medina del Campo
As I entered the church and paid my admission, I learned that a ticket can be purchased which covers most of the churches within the city. Since it was the end of my day, I opted to pay the single admission and begin my exploration.
The church has been restored on multiple occasions with reconstructions of some parts and the elimination of others. It is a rather small structure and takes only a short time to make your way throughout its ancient interior which consists of three naves and three apses.
The high altar commanded my attention with its beautiful gilded altarpiece. There are some interesting statues and altarpieces in the side chapels as well a prostrate statue of Jesus. The church is dimly lit which lends to its intimate appearance. It was interesting to note that the church boasts a dome, however, it is not visible from the inside as it is covered in plaster.
Moving on to the exterior, I was able to reexamine the doorways from which I had entered the church. These doors are quite beautiful made of arched archivolts. Continuing along the arcaded galleries, I was able to study the religious scenes which decorate the Romanesque capitals. Some have been restored and also focus on God’s creatures…lions, birds, griffins among others. There are also some scenes of the Nativity, the Annunciation, the Flight Into Egypt, the Massacre of the Innocents, the Presentation of Jesus at the Temple, the Resurrenction of Lazarus, the entry into Jerusalem, the Last Supper, the Betrayer of Judas and the Ascension.
Once my tour of the galleries was complete, I made my way around the entire exterior of the church’s walls. I discovered the image of the Saint Bishop San Martin de Tours (12th century) and gazed skyward at the bell tower. Though this particular one does not soar as high as the cathedral’s, it and the galleries, do lend to the unique beauty of the square.
Although my visit was short, it was extremely fulfilling to visit the ancient temple.
There are many other churches throughout the city. Try catching them during opening hours. Though I can’t vouch for the beauty of their interiors, some of their exteriors are extremely pleasing to the eye and have a rich history.
Segovia’s religious history is one to investigate.
Other churches within the city’s limits.
Iglesia de San MiguelIglesia de San AndresSmall Church on Calle la Juderia ViejaIglesia de San ClementeIglesia de San Millan
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When you scan the skyline of Segovia, there are many steeples and belltowers.
One stands out above the rest.
The Gothic bell tower of the Cathedral of Segovia, the symbol of the city.
After my inspection of the cathedral, I had decided to skip the bell tower tour since I had a lot more to see within the city and didn’t want to have to return to the cathedral at a later time. Walking out of the cathedral and past the Plaza Mayor, I suddenly had a change of heart and ventured back.
Paying my admission, I hastily made my way to the Chapel of San Blas where the tour was to begin.
It was a few minutes after the hour and I ducked into the chapel, trying to join the group without disturbing the guide’s opening comments. After her introduction was complete, we were ushered to the corner of the chapel where the entrance to the bell tower staircase was hidden.
The original cathedral bell tower was constructed of American mahogany, but destroyed by fire in 1614. This ancient structure was the tallest in Spain, at a height of just over 354 feet. The tower was rebuilt with stone and began undergoing renovations in 2004, but it wasn’t until a full decade later that the tower was opened to tourists and visitors.
Beginning the tour, the guide led us up the winding, spiral staircase, until we reached our first stop, the Audiovisual Room. Taking a seat, we were immersed in a video with three dimensional recreations which explained the cathedral’s and tower’s history as well as information on the works of art and spaces within the temple. Before making our way to the stairway to begin the climb once again, we were able to take in the series of seventeenth century tapestries which tell the story of the general Pompey the Great, woven in Brussels.
A bit breathless, we reached the the next level of the bell tower, the Ringer’s House. Four rooms consisting of a living room, kitchen and two bedrooms, make up the former residence where the bell ringers and their families lived until 1950. Our guide broke down the daily lives of the bell ringer and what it entailed.
Climbing further still, we found ourselves in the Clock Room, where there are more of the tapestries from the life of Pompey the Great. Named for the clock located inside (similar to the one located in Puerta del Sol in Madrid), which was manufactured in 1882 in Strasbourg, you can understand how the bell ringer performs his job with access to the bells through strings connected to the bell tower from his house. We were also rewarded with a reproduction of the sounds of the bells that originally rang out.
Finally, after one last push up the remaining of the tower’s 308 stairs, we arrived at the bell tower. From this highest viewpoint in the city, we were rewarded with outstanding panoramic views of the Aqueduct, numerous Romansque churches and their own towers, the Alcazar, the city wall, the Jewish cemetery and the monasteries and convents as well as the nearby mountains and plateaus. More importantly, it is here that the bells that ruled the city’s life are located.
Staring at these carillons from the inside of the tower is certainly a unique perspective and some of the ten bells date back to the eighteenth century. Each of the bells can be identified by the placard located near the bell which apprises visitors of the year it was cast, its weight and diameter.
While the bells no longer resonate from this important tower, if you close your eyes and use your imagination, you might hear a slight whisper from the past, breaking the silence of the city’s skies.
Bong…
Visitors to Segovia will have many opportunities to see the city from different perspectives. Brave the climb and make sure that this is one of them!
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Address: Calle del Marques del Arco 1, Segovia, 40003
Tour Hours: Daily, November 1 to March 31, 1030, 1200, 1330 and 1630. April 1 to October 31, 1030, 1200, 1630, 1800 and 1930. Night tours, Friday, Saturday and Sunday, May to October, 2130.
Some cities love to boast that they have the first cathedral built within it boundaries.
Not Segovia.
The Spanish city’s religious claim to fame is that it has the last Gothic cathedral to be built in Spain.
Started in the 16th century, the Segovia Cathedral was not finished until 1768. Sitting proudly on the Plaza Mayor, it maintains the spot where Isabella I was proclaimed the Queen of Castile.
As I strode into the Plaza Mayor, the cathedral is what commanded my attention. There were some beautiful architectural elements in the square, but it was the grand church’s Gothic exterior that commanded my attention.
After paying my admission, I made my way around the massive church designed by Juan Gil de Hontanon and constructed by his son Rodrigo. Within its enormous interior, the outer fringe of the cathedral is lined with more than twenty chapels illuminated by 16th century Flemish windows. Though each chapel was unique and interesting in its own way, my overall impression of the cathedral was one of which was impressive but rather stark compared to other cathedrals I have visited. Some of the chapels, however, stood out more than others with elaborate decoration and golden altars.
The Blessed Sacrament Chapel, one of the most outstanding in the church, which was created by Churriguera and featured stained glass windows, carved choir stalls and 16th and 17th century paintings. The third chapel on my right from the entrances, the Capilla de San Cosme y San Damian, displays a wooden lamentation group by Baroque sculptor Gregorio Fernandez.
The large, 15th century Gothic choir, in the center of the church, was quite mesmerizing with its elaborately carved stalls and old manuscripts. Directly across from the choir, protected by bars, was the high altar with an 18th century altarpiece by Sabatini. Although you can peer through the barricade to see the specifics of the altar, it is a pity that the overall beauty cannot be fully appreciated from afar.
Through an elaborate doorway, I made my way to the late Gothic cloister, which dates back prior to the cathedral’s beginnings. Strolling through the peaceful halls and admiring the maze of green gracing the center, it was in one of the corners that I found the tombs of Juan and Rodrigo Gil de Hontanon, the men responsible for the beautiful place that I was exploring.
Beyond the cloister, within the first floor of the Chapterhouse, I discovered a small museum of religious art. There were some compelling paintings, jewelry and a collection of rare antique manuscripts. The Chapterhouse itself was a rich display of of paintings and tapestries and offered an array of religious vestments and tapestries on the second floor.
The rear of the cathedral was open and I was able to inspect the gated area to examine both the exterior architectural features and the tombstones set into the terraced area.
As I walked through one of the chapels at the rear of the structure, I spied a sign which advertised guided tours to the cathedral’s belltower. Undecided about the time it was scheduled (I had a lot more ground to cover), I left the church and made it as far as the Plaza Mayor’s center. It was only 35 minutes until the beginning of the tour…how could I not take advantage of the opportunity to see the cathedral in its entirety? Heading back to the cathedral, I paid for the tour and hastily made my way to the starting point, where the guide was already addressing a small group. Listening to the guide’s opening oration, I was eager to see what was in store for our group. Good views and a lot of information I hoped.
To be continued…
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Remus and Romulus were born to Rhea Silvia (the daughter of a king) and the war god, Mars. There were ordered to be drowned in the Tiber River, but the trough in which they were placed floated down the river and came to rest at the site which would later become Rome. Finishing its journey at a sacred fig tree, the Ficus ruminalis, a she-wolf and a woodpecker, both revered by Mars, suckled and fed them until they were found.
After my visit to Segovia recently, I learned something. On my next visit to Rome, there is a place that I need to visit.
The Capitoline Museums.
Sure, I always enjoy the historical artifacts displayed in museums, especially in Rome, but there is one thing in particular that I want to see.
The famous bronze statue of the Capitoline Wolf with Romulus and Remus beneath her belly.
The Capitoline Wolf represents the origins of Rome and depicts the goddess Luperca suckling Romulus and Remus. The original was placed in the Palazzo dei Conservatori on the Campidoglio in Rome in 1471 but was then later moved to the Capitoline Museums. Today, a copy is situated on a pillar at the northern corner of the Palazzo Senatorio.
Crazy thing is that as many times as I have been to Rome, I was never aware that this statue existed. As I stepped off of the bus in Segovia, however, after the amazing aqueduct, a copy of this statue was one of the first things I saw.
Interesting enough, the original statue, located in Rome, was favored by Benito Mussolini, the Italian dictator. Upon his orders, duplicates were made and distributed to cities throughout the world, including Argentina, Austrailia, Belgium, Bolivia, Brazil, Canada, Chile, China, France, Guatemala, Hungary, Italy, Japan, Libya, Moldova, New Zealand, Norway, Romania, Sweden, Switzerland, Tajikistan, United Kingdom, United States, Uruguay and yes…Spain.
The statues were dedicated to the city of Segovia in 1974 as well as Merida, and Tarragona and today is a popular landmark…one of the first things visitors to the city see.
So don’t miss it. See it in Segovia. See it in Rome. See it in Paris. See it in Bucharest. See it…well…in many place, thanks to Mussolini.
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Statue of Remus and Romulus
Address: Plaza del Azoguejo 1, 40001 Segovia Spain
As a child, one of my favorite memories was waiting for the Wonderful World of Disney movie on Sunday nights. Seeing Tinkerbell flying onto the screen in front of the Disney Castle and all of the fireworks exploding behind it, was breathtaking! The anticipation was only second to Christmas Eve when we eagerly awaited the arrival of Santa and the presents under the tree the next morning!
The mere sight of this castle, in even a picture, was enough to trigger fantasies of not only what the movie would be that week, but also what it would be like to live in or even visit this castle. Castles were what our fantasies were made of…princesses, knights in shining armor and space to run freely and have spectacular games of hide and seek.
Visitors to Disney World have often wondered how Walt Disney, the theme park’s creator, conceived and brought to fruition, this beautiful castle. Had he seen one like it somewhere?
Visitors to Segovia, go to see not only the city’s amazing aqueduct, but the beautiful castle (or alcazar) that is rumored to have been Walt’s inspiration for Disneyworld’s castle.
Now, I’m a bit of a sucker for a castle. I love not only the history and the architecture, but the princess that resides in every woman, imagines that one day she is going to wander the halls of a castle in a foreign land, doling out orders to her ladies in waiting and whiling away the hours sewing, painting, dancing and waiting for her prince. So, when I have an opportunity to see an amazing “real-life” castle, I take it!
Walking through the city of Segovia, past the aqueduct, the Plaza Mayor and the many beautiful churches and cathedrals, I headed to the outermost edge of the city. I wanted to see the castle of Segovia.
Originally built as a fortress in the 12th century, it was later used as a royal palace, state prison, Royal Artillery College and military academy and is well known throughout Spain for its distinctive architecture. It was one of the favored residences of the monarchs and a key fortress in the defense of the kingdom with its location on the granite cliffs at the convergence of the Clamores and Esrema rivers. There are many secret passages that connect to these rivers and it is the location where Isabella was crowned in 1474 as the Queen of Castile and Leon.
And yes, as I approached the castle, I could truly see the similarities to what I had once set my eyes upon on visits to Disneyworld and on Sunday night television! It is a truly fascinating spectacle and I was excited as I entered the ticket office at the forefront of the property. Ticket in hand, I crossed the drawbridge and began my exploration.
Ticket Office
The castle is now used as a museum and a military archives building and when you enter, there are many different options of the areas to seek out. Follow the signs, as your visit is self guided, and take each space, one by one.
The highlights of the castle are its keep, its square with four towers and the hall raised by King John II of Castile which first served as a Weapons room. There are magnificent courtyards filled with statues and artillery and the Cellars in which the foundations of the castle can be found.
The Hall of the Palace contains suits of armor and leads to the Hall of the Galley with its magnificent stained glass windows representing Henry III of Castile and his family and Henry II of Castile with scenes of the death of Peter I and John II. A beautiful painting depicting the coronation of the queen Isabella I of Castile decorates one of the walls, but it is the coffered ceiling that takes center stage. The room was built by the queen of Catherine of Lancaster in 1412.
Hall of the PalaceHall of the PalaceHall of the GalleyHall of the Galley
The Throne Room contains portraits of the kings, the coat of arms of the Catholic Monarchs, the throne seating and leads to the Hall of the Fireplace with its tapestry of Our Lady’s betrothal. The Royal Chamber’s main focus is the brocade covered bed, woven in gold, along with scenes of the family life of the Catholic Monarchs.
Throne Room
Hall of the Fireplace
The Hall of the Kings truly took my breath away with its gold inlaid ceiling set with statues corresponding to the Kings of Asturias, Leon and Castile. There is a portrait of Philip II and two portraits of his wives, Elisabeth of Valois and Anna of Austria.
Hall of the KingsHall of the Kings
Sweeping through the Room of the Belt with its tile walls and its elaborate blue and gold ceiling, I was elated to peer through a screened partition to spy the Chapel, which was also accessible through the next hallway. This was the location where the kings and queens of the castle celebrated mass.
Room of the BeltRoom of the Belt
Chapel
Chapel
Finally, I ventured into the Weapons Room or Armory. The Alacazar had housed the armory of the House of Trastamara since old times and was the model of the collections of weapons that were finally collected into the Royal Armory of Madrid. Out of the back of the Weapons Room, there is a large terrace which offers views of the river below and the nearby Museo Real Casa de Moneda de Segovia and the Convento de San Juan de la Cruz.
Weapons Room
Weapons Room
Weapons Room
Following the signs, I retraced my steps to the front of the castle to climb the 152 steps of the tower of John II of Castile. The large panoramic terrace gave me outstanding views of the entire city and close up views of the construction of the towers and the castle. As I stared out upon the city, my inner princess reared her head and I felt that Sunday night Disney excitement. That inner princess suddenly felt as though she was staring out on her kingdom…one she was about to set foot back upon and thoroughly discover what it was all about!
Tower of John II of CastileTower of John II of Castile
View From Tower of John II of Castile
Tower of John II of Castile
Very inspiring.
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Address: Plaza Reina Victoria Eugenia, s/n, 40003 Segovia, Spain
Hours: October to March, 1000-1800 and April to September, 1000-1900. Closed December 25, January 1, January 6.
Admission: Adults, €5.00, Seniors €3.45. Citizens of the European Union can visit for free on Tuesdays from 1400-1600.
Getting There: Train, from Chamartin station in Madrid, http://www.renfre.com or http://www.thetrainline.com. By bus, from Moncloa metro station (Madrid), http://www.omio.com. After arriving in Segovia, bus #11 (2€) stops at the aqueduct and its about a 15-20 minute walk to the castle on the northwest side of the city.
There are exceptions to the rule, however. In Granada, the main square is the Bib Rambla, but the Plaza Mayors in Madrid and Salamanca are two of the most famous. Having visited Madrid’s main square many times, it was no surprise to find that Segovia, too, had a square by the same name and I could not pass up the chance to discover what made this one stand apart from the others that I had visited in the past.
As I made my way down Calle Real, one of the most famous streets in Segovia, I suddenly found myself in the heart of the city. This square, under the watchful eye of the city’s magnificent cathedral, boasts several other important buildings such as the Town Hall, the Juan Bravo Theater and the San Miguel Church. There is also a small bandstand located in the middle of the plaza where the occasional musicians pound out a tune and around which the Segovian people have social gatherings and festivities.
Cathedral of SegoviaTown Hall
Segovia’s Plaza Mayor was built in the 17th century as the center of the village where vendors set up their stands and citizens socialized and met. The Town Hall, (17th century), flanks the north side of the square and is the location of the majority of all Segovian events. The church of San Miguel, with its beautifully colored spire, was rebuilt in 1558 and was the location where Isabel was proclaimed Queen of Castile. I had been excited to visit this church with its Rubens painting and baroque altarpieces, however, due to the early hour, I found the door locked.
Church of San Miguel
The Juan Bravo Theater, one of the newer buildings that sit on the square, was constructed in 1917 and is used by both locals and tourists for various performances.
Juan Bravo Theater
This city square has changed names many times over the years. It was first called the Plaza Mayor upon its conception and then, during the Bourbon Restoration, Plaza de la Constitution. It was changed to Plaza de Franco after the Civil War and then changed again to its original name, Plaza Mayor at the end of Francisco Franco’s dictatorship.
As in the past, there are many outdoor cafes, shops arcades and hotels that surround the square and this is a place where you can spot many tourists who visit the city. Fiestas, such as the Frutos de Segovia, and the traditional fairs of San Juan held until the day of San Pedro on June 29 and participants can enjoy traditional fairs, folk walks, illuminations and fireworks.
It was much more of an open space than the Plaza Mayor in Madrid and extremely peaceful, especially during a day in winter, when the city is not filled with tourists seeking out its wonders. It was a mild February day when I was visiting, so I decided to sit outside and enjoy the comings and goings of the locals, while enjoying lunch and keeping an eye on the beauty of the Segovia Cathedral which was on my list of places to visit.
Ancient Segovians may have known this place by a different name, however, regardless of what alias this main plaza goes by, it can really only be known as one thing…
The heart of the city.
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Many European cities are filled with unique architecture and artwork.
Segovia is one of them.
There are cathedrals, castles, aqueducts, statues…you name it. A walk around the city is most certainly entertaining especially if you are an architecture aficionado.
When I first arrived in Segovia, I marveled at the beautiful aqueduct that sprawls across the main square, but knowing that there was much to explore, I headed deep into the city. Aiming for the city’s center, the Plaza Mayor, there was, however, a building that caught my attention, along the way.
Casa de los Picos.
The House of the Spikes.
A short walk from the famed aqueduct, I found myself on Calle Juan Bravo standing in front of a building with a most unique facade!
Built during the end of the fifteenth century in the Renaissance style, its first owner was Pedro Lopez de Ayala, the Count of Fuensalida. Left to his son, Pedro, upon his death, the house was then sold to Juan de la Hoz, a Segovian councilman. After the acquisition, de la Hoz began the transformation that made the facade what you see today.
There are 360 granite, spike-like blocks which cover the facade forming pyramid-shaped reliefs…a type of style that was common during the middle ages. As I studied the building, I was convinced that it was a fortress of some kind but learned that although it mostly operated as a residence, it changed ownership over the years many times and finally transferred to the Ministry of Education in the 1970’s. Today, it functions as a museum and exhibition center and is part of the School of the Applied Arts and Crafts.
Even if it is not a fortress, I thought it interesting to find that the house once belonged to the executioner of the city and that legend states that under one of the peaks, a treasure is hidden! I would have loved to hang around and take a look, but it was not open at the time!
Opening hours are extremely limited and although there is not much to see unless exhibitions are being held, it might be interesting to see the patio which is considered to be the highlight of the structure. Built in the Renaissance style, it is a small space with porticos on three sides with five limestone columns, three at its midpoint and two at small angles and decorated with Talavera tiles that depict the most important monuments of Segovia.
Even if you do not have much time while in Segovia to actually visit the interior, make sure that your path through the city leads you in front of this unparalleled house of spikes!
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When you want to take a day trip from Madrid, there are many options.
Toledo. Pedraza. Consuegra. Valladolid. Segovia (to name just a few…)
The last one intrigued me. When I was last visiting with a friend, who is from Madrid, she talked a lot about Segovia and its aqueduct.
This, I had to see!
Rising early, I headed by metro to Chamartin train station. It was fairly easy to purchase my ticket and find my gate and train. A short, thirty minutes later, I was arriving in Segovia. Making my way to the front of the train station, I found bus #11, which was how I had planned to reach the city center and the famed aqueduct.
The bus ride was quick but the city scapes that we drove past were uninspiring, leaving me to wonder for a split second if I had made the wrong decision by traveling here. But, then, in the distance, there it was.
The aqueduct and the old city set up on a hill.
Jumping out of the bus, I could not contain my excitement, gazing up at the ancient Roman aqueduct, built almost 2000 years ago, the city’s most important architectural landmark. Snapping photo after photo, I finally made my way out of the traffic circle and walked along the length of the beautiful structure. One of the best preserved Roman aqueducts in the world, it has become an icon and one of the main attractions that lures visitors to the city. Covering a distance of 17 km, reaching a height of 92 feet (at its highest point) and containing 167 arches, this feat of age-old engineering was used to transport water from the Fuenfria spring to Segovia. The most amazing part of this venerable structure is that it defies the laws of gravity, standing on its own, with no kind of mortar used in its construction.
An interesting legend about Segovia’s Aqueduct is that it was the result of a pact between a girl and the devil in which she offered him her soul in exchange for water to reach her house before the crack of dawn! That devil must have been a talented engineer!
The aqueduct stretches down Calle de Ruiz de Alba and as I left the Plaza del Azoguejo to follow it’s footprint, I got my first glances of the city’s homes, businesses and other architectural features. Returning to the plaza, there were many tourists admiring the city’s coat of arms and a statue of the Blessed Virgin, housed in a niche the upper reaches of the aqueduct. There are two niches still visible, one on each side. The one housing the Virgin de la Fuenclisla, once held an image of Hercules, the purported founder of the city and the other, once held a statue of Saint Stephen. It is interesting to note that on the fourth day of December each year, the day of Saint Barbara, the patron saint of artillery, the local military drapes the image of the Virgen in a flag.
For those that are interested in learning more about the aqueduct, an interpretation center is housed in Segovia’s former mint, Real Casa de Moneda. The exhibit explains the connection between the mint and the aqueduct in that coins minted in Segovia used the aqueduct as a mint mark.
Finally, after soaking it all in, I climbed the stairs alongside the aqueduct, pausing for one long last look, before making my way into the historic part of the city.
What a site!
When my breath catches in my throat, I know that I am looking at something truly remarkable! This was one of the most amazing pieces of architecture and if this was the opening bid, what else was I going to find in this stunning city?
I couldn’t wait!
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The dance between bull and matador, in a ring surrounded by thousands of cheering spectators, is a sport of the ages.
Olé!
The dance floor that this spectacle takes place on is within a bullring of which there are many.
The most prestigious bullring in the world, Plaza de Toros Las Ventas, can be located in Madrid, Spain. Completed in 1929 and inaugurated in 1931, it was designed in the Moorish style by architect José Espeliú after the determination that the former main bullring at the Carratera de Aragon was not sufficient to seat the crowds usually in attendance.
Today, it is one of the most popular tourist attractions in the city, inviting millions of visitors each year to explore the venue when the excitement of the sport is not at its height. With a seating capacity of just over 23,000, it is the largest arena in Spain and the third largest in the the world. It is also extremely popular with local and visiting bullfighting enthusiasts during the bullfighting season.
My experiences with Las Ventas date back many years. My interest in attending a bullfight was piqued when I spotted a poster while sightseeing within the city on my first visit. Heading there that evening, I found it to be quite the spectator sport, full of breath holding excitement! A few years later, remembering the event, I took my son to the Las Ventas to see the iconic arena and to visit the Bullfight Museum. Trying on costumes and seeing the arena from the inside gave him an idea of what it might be like to experience the unique tradition. Another few years passed and I headed once more to the arena, with friends, to see another bullfight. This one was quite memorable with the bull jumping the fence and the patrons scattering!
When I found myself back in Madrid recently, I decided that a trip back to Las Ventas to visit the museum would be a stimulating way to fill the afternoon. It is always awe-inspiring to see this beautiful arena up close after emerging from the neighboring metro station, and set against a bright blue sky, this time was no exception. Of course, on a day when a bullfight is scheduled to take place, the place exudes excitement and is filled with hordes of people, anxious to enter and see the spectacle, but without the crowds, it makes it easier to appreciate the building itself and the beautiful statues, honoring the art of bullfighting which grace the premises.
Though this day was a quiet one for the arena, I was excited to visit the museum once again. After paying my entrance fee, I was given an audio guide which would assist me on my exploration.
Starting at the Puerta Grande (Door of Triumph, also called the Gate of Madrid), I gazed upward at the keyhole entryway, the place where all bullfighters dream of exiting while being carried on the shoulders of their adoring fans. In the vestibule, there is a replica of the inaugural poster dating back to 1931 which marked the occasion when eight matadors took part in the first bullfight of Las Ventas on June 16 as well as plaques commemorating the great matadors and patrons of the sport.
Mounting the stairway, I made my way to the upper levels of the arena offering close and personal looks of bulls preserved by taxidermy. Standing next to these monstrous beasts, bereft of life, it is quite difficult to imagine yourself in the ring alongside the living, snorting, stomping, angry being that is anxious to impale you with its razor-sharp horns and trample your body until it is a mangled mess.
Stepping out onto the terrace, I was offered a great perspective of the plaza surrounding Las Ventas, but the best views are achieved by turning and setting your eyes upon the building itself. It is here that those most interested in the architectural details of the building can get an intimate look as well as come to grab a breath of fresh air, take a quick smoke or steal a bit of time with their loved one.
My audio guide then led me into the main arena, the area where the all of the action takes place. Walking through these portals, I remembered the first time I ever entered, seeing the dance floor of the bull and matador and scouring the hot afternoon for my assigned seat, which was purchased without any knowledge of where I would be sitting. The seats in the circular arena are characterized by how close or how far they are to the action and by three very important things if you are seeing a fight during the afternoon…shade (sombra), semi-shade (sol y sombra) and sun (sol). You can imagine, that without any purchasing knowledge I did not end up, in the shade. At first, I was relieved to find that I was in a semi-shade seat. For a while, I was in the shade, but as the sun made its way across the Spanish sky, it went in the direction other than where I wanted, making my seat a sun seat! With my entertainment, I also got a sunburn!
This time around, I was here for an architectural experience, but as I stepped into the space, I discovered that the usually impressive view was obscured by a large domed tent sitting in the middle of the ring. I guess there was a concert or event that was going to be held here, but it was quite disappointing to have the usual spectacular view thwarted by this plexiglass eyesore.
Nevertheless, I made my way around the seating area, checking out the Royal Box with its Mudéjar architecture, the clock on the other side of the ring and the ring’s five gates and the ones where the bulls enter the area, called the toriles. Making my way through these gates, I was able to see where the bulls are watered and housed prior to the fight as well as the infirmary. It was also here that I encountered a Virtual game which puts the participant in the ring with a bull. After watching two gentlemen enjoy the fabricated interaction, I decided that I needed to don the goggles and see what this was all about. I have to admit, this bull charging me was so lifelike, I really wanted to run!
Moving on, it must have been my religious side and love of churches that led me to the chapel. Next to the bullring, this is the most significant part of Las Ventas for a bullfighter. Though quite small, it is where the matador mentally prepares and prays for his well being during his upcoming challenge. This Baroque, historic place of worship is dedicated to the Virgen de la Paloma, the patron of Madrid and the Virgin of Guadelupe, the patron of Mexico.
Finally, I made my way into the museum which offers a large collection of paintings, busts and matador clothing items. The best part, however, was when I was leaving. The gentleman at the front desk, who took audio-guide, offered to give me a poster which I graciously accepted. In fact, I shamelessly asked him for another for my son who had visited before. He gave me not one more, but two more! After taking a minute to open it, I learned that it was an old bullfight poster, marking an important fight during the previous season.
Doesn’t every wall need a bullfight poster?
Mine does.
Olé!
For more pictures, check out Facebook and Instagram@snappingtheglobe.
Hours: January to June, October to December, 1000-1800, July to September, 1000-1900, daily. Days of bullfights, tours close three hours before the start of the bullfights. Closed December 25 and January 1. Ticket office, opening Days: 1000-1400, 1700-2000. Bullfight Day: Uninterruptedly from 1000 until the start of the bullfight.
Admission: Adults, €14.90, Students and Retirees, €11.90, Reduced Price (Children under 12 years old), €5.90, Children under 5 years, free. The ticket includes the Bullring, Museum and the Virtual Reality Experiences. An audio-guide is included and available in 10 different languages (Spanish, English, French, Italian, German, Portuguese, Japanese, Korean, Russian and Chinese).
There are fifty states in the United States and I had visited 49.
Yes, I had traveled to every state in our country…except Alaska!
Of course, I have watched many shows which chronicle life in Alaska, gold prospecting in Alaska, fishing in Alaska, house hunting in Alaska, just to name a few! I am sure you have seen them all as well, however, as these shows have made me sometimes feel like I have been there, travel to this amazing state had somehow escaped me!
Until now.
With some luck, I found myself in the position to be able to assist in transporting some military troops to Alaska where they would continue their journey onward to an overseas base. Realizing that I would have a bit of time in Anchorage, I immediately made plans to rent a car and analyzed a map of the area, determined to figure out how much I could squeeze in. As the date of departure neared, however, I realized that the weather was not going to cooperate. High winds were moving in and heavy snow was in the forecast. The weather was definitely going to hinder my plans and I wasn’t optimistic about driving on icy roads.
Thinking about one of the items on my bucket list, dog sledding, I began some investigation on whether I might be able to schedule this activity despite the weather. A little legwork revealed a kennel, about ninety minutes away, that provided transportation. Being able to accomplish something that I had always wanted to do and not having to drive in conditions that were pretty foreign to me would be a win-win.
Our journey to the most northern part of our country was long but uneventful and we arrived at our hotel in the early part of the next morning. After speaking with my coworkers, I had found that most of them also sought to mark dog sledding off of their bucketlists. Discussing it at length and making a few phone calls, we found that when pooling our resources, we could rent a four-wheel drive vehicle which would make it safer for us all to travel together and make the trip to Big Lake, Alaska. The bonus plan was that there was one in our group more familiar with driving in the snow…so I did not have to navigate the treacherous roadways!
After much needed sleep, we picked up our Suburban, loaded everyone up and followed the GPS route to Big Lake, via Wasilla. The roads were somewhat treacherous and I was truly glad that it was not me behind the wheel. Following a quick lunch in Wasilla and some poses alongside a big wooden moose, we found ourselves driving down heavily snow covered roads through the woods, spotting a real moose emerging from the woods, along the way.
The Happy Trails Kennel was nestled down a long and winding drive and we must have seemed like a bunch of crazy women, busting in, shaking snow from our boots, talking incessantly and eager to get the adventure started.
The owner, Martin Buser, an Alaska transplant, originally hailing from Switzerland, greeted us warmly. Little did we realize at that moment, that we were in the presence of Alaskan dog sledding royalty! Martin is currently the musher with the most consecutive Iditarod finishes and a four-time Iditarod champion, preparing at that time for the start of his next race a month later.
We were introduced to his wonderful wife, Kathy and another Iditerod musher, DeeDee Jonrowe, who had agreed to take part of our group out with her dog team. After finalizing our payments and outfitting all of us in our snow gear, we ushered outside to meet the dogs and learn a little about the sport of dog sledding.
Divided into two groups, four with Martin and three with Dee Dee, we headed out into the wilderness, following some previously plowed trails which headed out over the lake. I was with Dee Dee, perched precariously behind her on the rails of her dogsled, trying to capture the beauty of the landscape around us on my camera, while she told us about her family, how she found her way to Alaska and about her Iditarod career, which consists of sixteen top ten finishes and a second place finish that was the fastest Iditarod time ever recorded at that point. Its hard to describe how serene it is gliding through an all-white landscape with not a building or soul in sight for miles around! So hard to describe, in fact, that I had to facetime all three of my boys so that they could see what I was seeing while it was occurring!
Our journey lasted about forty-five minutes and my legs were burning from trying to balance on the sled. I will admit, however, I fell off once, so as much as I loved the outing, it was nice when it came to an end and were able to go out to the kennels to play with the puppies and the mature dogs!
Doffing our snow gear back inside the toasty building, we purchased some souvenirs, grabbed a coffee and watched a film, highlighting Martin’s illustrious career. It was fun to see that Mike Rowe of the television show Dirty Jobs had visited and filmed a segment at the kennels. Though we didn’t have to pick up dog poop like Mike, we could see that he enjoyed his visit as much as all of us!
As the sky was starting to darken and we began the journey back to our hotel, it was with excitement for what we had experienced and sadness for it to be over with too soon! Flipping on the radio, we almost expected to hear Roy Rogers singing the kennel’s theme song, Happy Trails, but alas, it was only the GPS, telling us to turn left, back to Wasila and Anchorage!
As our tires left markings in the snow all the way home, we indeed, left some happy trails!
For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.
Address: 19391 West Lakes Blvd, Big Lake, Alaska USA 99652
Hours: Winter dog sled tours, 1000 and 1400. From May until September, kennel tours available at 2:00 P.M. on Tuesdays, Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays, additional fee involved
Admission: $149 per person. Kennel tour, adults, $49, children under 12, $22.
Getting There: North on Hwy 1 (Glenn Highway). Hwy 1 turns into Hwy 3 (Parks Highway). Go through Wasilla, turn left on Big Lake road at mile 52. Go 3 ¼ miles on Big Lake road turn right on Beaver Lake Road. Go 1 mile, turn left onto West Lakes Boulevard (long name, short sign “W. Lks. Blvd”). Go 4 ½ miles to our driveway on right. Look for tripod with sign.
