The Tulip Quiz

© 2018 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

What kind of flowers grow in the Netherlands?

Why, tulips, of course!

Everyone should know this answer!

Now, does everyone know the tulip’s origins?  Where the tulip got its name?  Or how many varieties of tulips there are?

Despite my love of the beautiful flower that I plant in my yard every year, I must confess, I knew none of these answers.

A rainy afternoon, led me through the saturated streets of Amsterdam to the small museum located on Prinsengracht.  Though my umbrella was in rough shape when I arrived, the museum was light and airy…and dry!

After paying my admission and watching an introductory film, it was time to head downstairs to the exhibition rooms.  So much tulip information is presented here from its origins, to how it arrived in Holland and the roles it played in Dutch history and in current times.  An additional film is also presented on the street level which identifies what transpires in each season for the farmers who grow them.  I  have to admit, I was intrigued!  I guess I thought that I knew more than I really did!

See how much you know…

Is the tulip native to Holland?  Tulips originated in the high plains of Central Asia, (present day Kazakhstan and surrounding countries) and can still be found growing wild in many areas.  Recognized as something special, the tulips were brought to Turkey and introduced to the gardens of dignitaries.  Suleyman the Great, the ruler of the Ottoman Regime, a plant enthusiast, gave bulbs to De Busbecq, a Flemish scientist, who worked in the court.  In turn, De Busbecq passed some on to Carolus Clusius, a friend and another Flemish scientist, medical doctor and botanist during the 16th century.   As a professor at the University of Leiden and the head of the Hortus Botanicus, founded in 1590, he planted the bulbs, but did not share his knowledge of them.  When the bulbs were stolen and subsequently sold, this was the beginning of the commercial tulip trade in the Netherlands.

How did the tulip get its name?  Because it was a symbol of power and wealth, Ottoman sultans wore the tulip on their turbans.  Since the tulip’s shape resembles a turban, the Latin word tulipa (derived from the Persian word tulipan, meaning turban) became commonly used.

How many kinds of tulips are there?  One.  There is one kind.  The tulip.  This statement is quite misleading, however, because there are many different groups of tulips each with their own specific characteristics and classified into a system of 15 different groups, broken down into shape, heritage and flowering season.

Where do tulips grow best?  Tulips like sandy-clay soil in areas not far from coastal areas as well as mild winters and summers.  Because of this, tulips tend to grow well in certain parts of Holland, however, they may grow successfully in other parts of the world provided the soil conditions are similar and they receive at least six hours of sunlight daily.

What is the best time to plant tulips?  The only time of year to plant tulips is during the fall, more specifically, from October until mid-December.  The bulbs need to develop good roots before winter starts and the frost penetrates the soil and should be planted twice as deep as the height of the bulb.

Will tulips return every year?  In warmer climates, not likely.  In zones 3-8, it is possible but not guaranteed.  In cooler climates, it is more likely providing the bulbs are planted extra deep, watered well, protected with extra mulch and fertilized.

Should bulbs be dug up every year?  In warmer climate zones, digging of the tulip bulbs is advised after the flowering periods and new bulbs planted during the following fall season.  For zones 3-8, the bulbs do not need to be removed.

How to care for cut tulips?  The tulip stems should be cut at an angle and placed in a water-filled vase.  Care should be taken to ensure that the flowers remain in a cool area during the night and narcisses/daffodils should not be placed in the same container as they produce a toxic substance detrimental to other flowers.

Were tulips bulbs once eaten?  During the winter of 1944-1945, starvation in Amsterdam was rampant and many died.  Since the bulbs had a high percentage of starch, they began to be sold as food.  After removing the brown skin and remnants of the roots, the bulbs were cut in half, the flower stem removed and then washed thoroughly.  They were then cooked for about a half an hour and coincidentally, tasted much like potatoes.

Can tulips be brought to your home country (USA)?   Ensure that the bulbs have been approved by the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA).  Flower bulbs remaining within the European community can be exported throughout Europe with no problems.

So, how many did you get right?

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You can buy many varieties of tulips throughout Amsterdam and the Netherlands. The Flower Market, souvenir shops and here, at the Tulip Museum.

 

The Tulip Museum

  • http://www.amsterdamtulipmuseum.com/en/
  • Address:   Prinsengracht 116;  1015 EA Amsterdam, Netherlands.
  • Hours:  Daily, 1000-1800.  Closed April 27 and December 25.
  • Admission:  Adults, €5.00, Children, €3.00 and Families, €10.00
  • Getting There:  Located in the Jordan district, near the Anne Frank museum.

It’s All In the Details

© 2018 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Amsterdam layovers with more than twenty-four hours, usually involve trains to other parts of the country.

This time it involved a movie theater.

Learning of the Pathé Tuschinski, I was intrigued by the pictures of its grand art deco and gothic exterior with its two towers flanking the entrance.  Making my way through the city, I soon found myself at the Rembrantplein and following the tram tracks down Reguliersbreestraat, I was standing before a most magnificent piece of architecture.

Having heard about the theater’s self-guided audio tour, I paid for my ticket, donned my headphones and went back in time to 1921.

In the early 1900s, Polish jeweler, Abraham Icek Tuschinski, on his way to America was sidelined in Rotterdam.  After successfully opening four theaters there, he was determined to build his crowning masterpiece in Amsterdam.

The Tuschinski theater, based on designs by architect H.L. Dejong, opened its doors on October 28, 1921.  Although the interior was designed by Pieter den Besten and Jaap Gidding, Tuschinski was involved in all aspects of the theater’s design and construction and was inspired to bring a place of luxury and comfort to his patrons. The theater, a mix of many styles including Amsterdam School, Art Nouveau and Art Deco was built to a staggering sum of four million guilders.

Beginning with the lobby, I marveled at the domed ceiling with its eddy of ever-changing color as I was informed by my audio guide to search through the reds and golds of the lobby’s rich wall-coverings to find the paradise birds and peacocks, relish the richness of the Moroccan handwoven carpet and to venerate the lavish bar of bronze and marble.

The audio guide led me up the stairs and to the various parts of the theater, including the VIP room, the secret, almost-hidden Moroccan room and the main theater, the Grote Zaal.

The theater had an original seating capacity of 2,000, an orchestra, balcony and upper circle levels.  With not just a film screen but a stage for live performances, an elegant Wurlitzer organ had a place of honor on the left side of the stage.  As I stood on the balcony, amazed at the richness of the beautiful theater, I listened in wonder at the organist practicing his music.

The beautiful details throughout the building…the light fixtures, the stained glass, the woodwork…all lend to the opinion of it being considered one of the most beautiful cinemas in the world.  However, not just a place of beauty, the theater in its time was considered to be revolutionary with its unique heating and ventilation system which kept an even temperature throughout the building and the state of the art Wurlitzer organ with 850 pipes that could make just about any sound, including voice.

Over time, the theater underwent many changes including one to its name when it was retitled “Tivoli” during the Second World War and began screening German made Nazi anti-semitic films.  Sadly during this time, Abraham Tuschinski and most of his family were deported to Auschwitz, never to return. The theater name was changed back to Tuschinski in 1945 and used for many concerts starring big names of the day such as Judy Garland, Marlene Dietrich, Dizzy Gillespie and Fats Domino. More changes came in more recent years when the theater was renovated to its original style between 1998 and 2002 and expanded to add more auditoriums.  Today, the theater goes by the name Pathé Tuschinski and the Grote Zaal has a capacity of only 784,  however, five additional screens can accommodate 105 to 191 more patrons each.

As I walked through this incredible, historic theater, I was moved at how much attention to detail and thought could be put into a place of business and I imagined that I would see movies more often if I could come to a place so extraordinary.

As I returned my audio guide and collected my complimentary cup of tea, I checked the time schedule and discovered that “The Greatest Showman” was playing later in the day.

Yes!  I would return and make my visit complete.

Arriving just before showtime, I purchased my ticket at the booth in front of the building, opting to be seated in the balcony, which included free popcorn and a drink of choice (soda, wine and beer included).  Before the presentation began, I was giddy with excitement, especially when I found that this particular movie was a musical.  Usually not a fan of this type of genre, I could hardly envision any other type of movie to be the first that I would enjoy in this majestic theater.

And I was right.  I was mesmerized as I sat in the balcony viewing the large screen and enjoying the wondrous story line, feeling almost as if I was at a Broadway production, not a movie!  At the end of the feature, I was saddened that my time at the theater was over.

Since my visit, I have been to Amsterdam an additional time and the first thing I have done is to check the movie listings at Pathé Tuschinski.  Though nothing on the schedule interested me, I do know that I have discovered something to do there in the future, unlike anywhere else!

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Pathé Tuschinski 

  • https://www.pathe.nl/bioscoop/tuschinski
  • Address:  Reguliersbreestraat 26-34, 1017 CN Amsterdam, Netherlands
  • Hours:  Varies according to movies shown
  • Admission:  Varies according to seat location
  • Self-guided Audio Tour:  Daily between 0930 and 1130, 10€ per person, including tea or coffee.  Offered in Dutch and English.

Calling All Cat Lovers

© 2018 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Cats…had them when I was younger.  Norie, Blackie and a few whose names I don’t remember.

Today, I am more of a dog person, but when I read of the Katten Kabinet, I had visions of a museum with hundreds of cats roaming throughout the gallery.  Always looking for something unique, it seemed like something worth checking out.  I had some time to kill and it was in the area…

Paying the admission in the old patrician house where the museum is located, I looked around…no cats.  I browsed through the gift shop.  Lots of books and posters.  No cats.  Finally, I headed up the stairs.  Still, no cats.

What I did find, however, is that the Katten Kabinet offers a look at the role of the cat in art and culture throughout the centuries, displaying hosts of art in the forms of posters, original paintings and sculptures paying homage to cats.  The most interesting display, however, was a host of letters written to the museum and its cats from other cat lovers expressing their love of felines!

Founded in 1990, by William Meijer, a wealthy Dutchman, the museum pays homage to his feline companion, John Pierpont Morgan (1966-1983) and is housed in a structure that commands more attention than the collection displayed in it.  Built in 1667, for William and Adrian Van Loon, the museum faces the historical Museum Van Loon, an identical floorplan, just across the canal.  After a draw, which decided which of the brothers were to receive either of the homes, it was William who acquired the property at 497 Herengracht.  Throughout its history, the house has hosted several famous people, such as the Mayor of Amsterdam, Jan Calkoen and former American president, John Adams. It has been rebuilt and redecorated several times, though most of its current state represents the 19th century.

After walking through a couple of the rooms in the museum, I finally did encounter two of the five cats that are reported to live on the premises.  Stretched out on a window sill, a black and white feline stared impassively at the visitors wandering through its home.  A short while later, another mostly white cat paced back and forth behind a glass-pane doorway, obviously hoping to be released from its confines by the owner who currently resides on the top floor.

So, should you visit?

Well, if you are in Amsterdam and looking to drop a few more euro than necessary…this is your museum.

If you are tired of visiting austere museums on art and history, of which there are several…this is your museum.

Cat lover?  This is definitely your museum.

Anyone else?  If you have the IAmsterdam card, are in the area and have nothing else to do for half an hour (and I am being generous with the time)…this is your museum.  Otherwise, there are so many more places and sights that will fill your time more productively.  Seek those out.

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Katten Kabinet

  • http://www.kattenkabinet.nl/
  • Address:  Herengracht 497, 1017 BT Amsterdam, Netherlands
  • Hours:  Monday through Friday, 1000-1700, Saturday and Sunday, 1200-1700
  • Admission:  €7.00
  • Getting There:  Tram, from Central Station, lines 1, 2 and 5 stop at Koningsplein.  Take a left onto Herengracht.  The museum is about a three minute walk.

 

Let’s Talk About Sex

© 2018 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

WARNING:  Photos featured in this post depict sex,sexual content and nudity.  Photos are censored, however, if easily offended, please tune in later for other posts. 

There are those who don’t like to talk about sex.

And, there are those who do.

And those who like to see it.

Amsterdam, a very liberal place, is one of extreme freedom.  Marijuana is legal as well as prostitution.  Sex shows can be found in the red light district in addition to a few museums, depicting the sex trade and erotica.

One museum, the Sexmuseum Venustempel, located on busy Damrak Street, has been around since 1985, welcoming curious visitors by the thousands.  With its convenient location near Amsterdam’s Central Station and many of the city’s hotels, plus its relatively cheap admission, it has evolved into one of the most visited museums in the Netherlands, with 675,000 visitors in 2015 alone.

Having visited the museum about twenty years ago, when I was younger, I knew that I probably remembered it in a different way.  Aware of what it offered, I was curious to see what changes, if any, had take place after all these years.

The museum’s full name is Sexmuseum-Temple of Venus and the first thing you encounter is a full sized figure of Venus at the entry.

After issuing a greeting to Venus, I paid my admission and made my way inside looking for a familiar display…and there he was!

The flasher.

“Pssst!”  He whispers from a dark nook.  A motorized figure moves forward, whipping his coat open.  Well, you can figure out the rest!

Moving on, life-sized wax figures of Mata Hari and her male partners stand proudly to the right side of the room.  In the rear, a long line waits for entry into the fetish room, offering hundreds of pictures of different types of fetishes including domination, exhibitionism, nudism, bondage and larger partners.

Guiding yourself through the rooms, each offers a view into different types of sex or cultural views of sex.  Downstairs you’ll detour through the dimly lit prostitution room, depicting the sex act as it may have been a couple of hundred years ago, as well as a displays on erotic pastries and African erotic art and fertility gods.

As you make your way up the stairs, plastic body parts line the stairwell and each floor offers encounters with various exhibits including Asian Art, Sex Through the Ages, Sex and Artists (with a depiction of Rembrandt painting a nude subject, Demons and Sex and numerous phallic representations, displayed singularly and in groupings.  In the architecturally compelling atrium, which houses the Venus Gallery, make sure to look up at the window where a leather clad sex worker perches asymmetrically atop a stool.

Finally, I encountered something else that I remembered from all those years ago…Marilyn Monroe.

Yes, Marilyn, the sex symbol from the 1950s.  Her life-sized wax figure reproduces the iconic scene from her movie The Seven Year Itch in which she fights the upward breeze from the subway grate blowing her white dress.

The rich and interesting collection offers hundreds of pieces of art, unique objects, rare old photographs brought together in an interesting way.

Though not for those easily offended, the museum is both amusing at times and quite compelling.  Judging from people’s reactions when I mentioned that I visited, it is also probably not what most people imagine it to be.  You’ll definitely get your five euros worth (and maybe more!).

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Sexmuseum Amsterdam

  • http://www.sexmuseumamsterdam.nl/
  • Address:  Damrak 18, 1012 LH Amsterdam, Netherlands
  • Hours:  Daily, 0930-2330
  • Admission:  €5.00.  Minimum age, 16 years
  • Getting There:  Walk from the Central Station direction Dam (2 minutes) or from the Dam square direction to the station (5 minutes).

 

The Amber Coast

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In the northwestern part of the Dominican Republic, between Cofresi and Cabarate lies the “Amber Coast”.

The Amber Coast was discovered by Christopher Columbus, and is the site of one of the first forts in the Americas, Ferte de San Felipe.  The popular beach town, Puerto Plata, offers many resorts and a look into its Spanish colonial past with beautiful architecture, museums and a host of landmarks.

Amber Cove Cruise Center, a short distance northwest of Puerto Plata, was opened in October of 2015, to much fanfare, as cruise ships had not visited the area in almost thirty years.

Sailing into the Bay of Maimon, early in the rainy morning, we had our first glimpse of the port with its overwater cabanas, pristine shopping area and resort-style pool complete with waterslides and lazy river.  The port also offers a great transportation hub in which visitors can access rental cars and taxi services.

Our original plan had been to enjoy the facilities offered at Amber Cove, but since we had missed out on our day in St. Kitts, we decided to book an excursion to explore another part of the island.

Meeting our guide, Daniel, we were soon on our way to the province of Montecristi, to the small seaside community of Estero Hondo, home to the country’s Marine Mammal Sanctuary.   The sanctuary, a natural refuge for the endangered manatee, is about a two hour drive from Amber Cove along narrow, winding roads, through vibrant and colorful communities.

After our arrival, we were divided into two groups, one to kayak through the marine preserve and the other to head to the observation area.  Part of the first kayaking group, we paddled through the estuary, admiring the large numbers of aquatic birds crossing the tranquil waters.  We all hoped to have a close encounter with the manatees that live in the area since there are very few places in the Caribbean where one can see the manatee in its natural habitat.

After a bit of paddling, we entered a larger part of the estuary where and we noticed the other members of our group on the observation deck on the shore.  Scanning the mirror-like surface constantly, we were disappointed to only see a manatee minimally break the surface twice.  Extremely difficult it was from our vantage point at the waters surface, it was a bit of a letdown to not have seen more of the amazing, docile creatures from a closer distance.

While paddling back, we admired the clams attached to the mangrove trees and as we neared the seashore, we dragged our kayaks onto a beach across the channel.  Walking along with our guides, we marveled at the large number of seashells resting on the rough sands.

Our guides motioned for us to follow as they waded into the shallow waters to cross over to a small island. As we neared the island, the waters were only ankle deep and we proceeded to enter a grove of trees teeming with squawking birds overhead.  The waters were littered with the remnants of hatched eggshells, feathers and even a small bird that had obviously fallen from his perch and drowned.  It was perilous walking through the area with so many birds overhead and much to his dismay, one of the members of our group was bombed!  Yes…poop!

Quickly making our way out of the grove to the other side, we found ourselves in a protected area;  waves crashing on the other side of the reef and calm waters surrounding us in clear, swimming pools.  Languishing in the beautiful, clear waters, we rested a moment and admired the view.

Checking our watches, we realized that as much as we would have loved to hang out in this stunning oasis, it was time to head back and make the switch with the other group.

Shedding our lifejackets, we followed Daniel to the Visitor’s Center.  An orientation with a ranger from the sanctuary informed us of the lives of manatees and how this particular group of about forty, is one of the largest populations of this species that exists on the island and possibly throughout the Caribbean.

We then boarded an open-air safari truck and headed down the overgrown road to the observation platform.  From the high vantage point, we soon saw the water’s surface breaking.  Though the manatees did not stay at the surface for very long and we mostly saw only their backs or noses as they came up for air, we did see many during our time observing the water’s surface.

Soon it was time to head back to the Visitor’s Center for a quick bite to eat and time to make the lengthy drive back to the cruise ship port.

A little later than we had anticipated our arrival, there was no time to check out the shops and we had to make a mad dash back to the boat for our departure.

As we sailed away, we watched the port and the Bay of Maimon disappear.  Thinking of my love of architecture, I was a little wistful that I had not seen more of the area and nearby Puerto Plata.  Though we have been to Dominican Republic before, it seems that the northern coast may offer a bit more charm than the packed resorts of Punta Cana.  And, after speaking with our tour guide, it seems that there are many other outdoor activities (Damajuaga Fall, ATV tours, cave snorkeling) we would have enjoyed.

Oh, well, there only so much you can squeeze in to a seven hour day in port. Sigh.

Amber Coast…I’ll be  back.

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Estero Hondo Marine Mammel Sanctuary

  • Runner’s Adventures https://www.runnersadventures.com/
  • To visit Estero Hondo, visitors may book an organized tour (see above link) or drive on their own.  From Amber Cove, take the road to Montecristi, pass the village of Villa Elisa, until you reach Punta Rucia. The protected area is in this vicinity.

A Place To Give Thanks

© 2018 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Long ago, dignitaries walked up the cobblestone street to the San Juan Cathedral to give thanks for their safe journey.

After two days at sea and weary of being confined to the boat,  it felt as if I, too, should head over to San Juan Cathedral to give thanks for finally making it into port!

Catedral San Juan Bautista, or San Juan Cathedral as it is more commonly known, is Puerto Rico’s grandest religious building and certainly one of its most important, being the seat of the Archdiocese of Puerto Rico.  The second oldest church in the Western Hemisphere, it is also the oldest church on U.S. soil and one of the oldest buildings in Puerto Rico.

The original cathedral, built in 1521, while the island was under Spanish rule, was a more simple structure constructed from wood with a thatched roof.  Unable to withstand strong winds, it was demolished by a hurricane and reconstructed in 1540, though what you see today, has evolved over time, especially its Gothic facade, added in the 1800s.

As I entered the cathedral, what I first noticed was that even though it is still quite palatial in appearance, with its ornately detailed ceiling, the cathedral lacked opulence.  Numerous robberies and pillaging over the years of its existence have stripped the church of  most of its valuable assets, but some of the original statues and stained glass windows remain.

As you make your way around the church, however, there are two famous reliquaries to take note of.  The tomb of Juan Ponce de León, the first governor of Puerto Rico, most well known for his search for the Fountain of Youth, has been laid to rest in the cathedral.  Though, the conquistador’s remains were originally interred at the Iglesia de San José, his family’s place of worship, he was moved here in 1912, to commemorate the 400 year anniversary of evangelization.  The white marble tomb, created by Spanish sculptor Miguel Blay, near the church’s transept, is not to be missed.

At the rear of the church, just right of the entrance, look for the glass box containing a most distinguished and long-deceased figure…St. Pius.  St. Pius was was one of the first martyrs killed for his faith during the Roman persecution.  In 1848, Pope Pius VII granted Puerto Rican Bishop Mariano Rodríguez de Olmedo y Valle permission to select a relic from the catacombs in Rome.  Though the relic made a detour to Barcelona to be restored, it finally made its way back to San Juan Bautista in 1868.  Displayed in a glass case, a wax sculpture of the saint’s body encases his skull.  The back of the skull is exposed to show its authenticity.  If you look into the mouth, you can see his real teeth.

Another interesting shrine within the cathedral is dedicated to Blessed Carlos Manuel Rodriguez Santiago, the first Puerto Rican and the first Caribbean-born layperson to be beatified.

While visiting Old San Juan, make sure to make your way down to the Plazuela de Las Monjas and stop into this historic church.  Take a pew and give thanks for your safe voyage to the island in memory of those who have come before you.

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Catedral San Juan Bautista

  • http://catedral-san-juan-bautista.business.site/
  • Address:  151 Calle del Cristo, San Juan, 00902, Puerto Rico
  • Hours:  Open daily, 0800-1600 (Sunday, until 1400).  Mass schedule, Saturday, 1900, Sunday, 0900 and 1100, Weekdays, 0725 and 1215.
  • Admission:  free

 

By Land and By Sea

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Two forts, one city.

My favorite thing about San Juan is its two forts, Castillo San Felipe del Morro and San Cristobal.  Having visited both two times before, you would think that I would look to find something else.  Well, there are lots of other things in Old Town, but I never tire of these old structures…truly a photographers dream!

Castillo San Felipe del Morro and San Cristóbal, are two forts that were built to protect the city, the former from attacks from the sea and the latter, attacks from land.

Exiting our cruise ship, the first thing on my agenda was San Cristóbal.  Near the port, I knew that it was a short walk that would take me through Plaza de Colón and to the gates of the fort.  Starting early, to make the most of our short time in San Juan, I could beat the crowds, photograph to my hearts content, still stroll the city and also see El Morro.

 

Castillo San Cristóbal, a San Juan Historic Site, stands guard at the eastern gate, the land entrance, to the walled city of Old San Juan.  After 149 years of construction, the fort was completed in 1783, although modifications were made throughout next century.  The fortification covered about 27 acres of land, sitting on a hill originally known as the Cerro de la Horca, and basically wrapped around the city of San Juan allowing entry through its heavily guarded double gates.

Although the largest fortification built by the Spanish in the New World stood ready to defend the city against land attacks, not much action was seen.  A land attack by the British in 1797 (under the command of Sir Ralph Abercrombe) did not make it as far as the fort and until 1898, the only dilemma was a 24 hour mutiny by soldiers living inside the fort against the Spanish crown.  Finally, in 1898, the first shots of the Spanish-American War were fired when Puerto Rico was under military attack from U.S. Navy warships.  Though the Spanish military attempted to retaliate, its old cannons and the fort could not withstand the assault, surrendering within 24 hours.  Only six months later, Puerto Rico became a territory of the United States.

After Puerto Rico’s acquisition, the United States maintained an active military base at the fort with the additions of concrete pillboxes and an underground bunker control center during World War II.  In 1961, once the U.S. Army vacated the premises, the U.S. National Park Service gained control and San Cristobal and El Morro were designated as museums and both were also declared as World Heritage Sites by the United Nations.

Over the years, with the city’s growth, part of San Cristóbal and a large segment of the city wall was was demolished to allow for flow of traffic in and out of the city.

The fort has two entrances, one off of Norzagaray Street and one off of Munoz Rivera Avenue.  Since I was coming from the cruise ship terminal, I entered from the latter, however, the former is much more dramatic and one used by those coming from El Morro along the route near the water.  If you choose to enter from Munoz Rivera, make sure to exit from other entrance to admire its sweeping ramp and grand appearance.

There are many things to see within the fort that can be observed with or without a guide.  Three popular tours offered include, The Tunnels Tour which offer treks through the tunnels of the fort and include historical information about these hidden defenses, The Outworks Tour, which brings you to the outworks to see the land defenses and the The Lantern Light Tour, offered twice a week, which informs of soldier’s lives within the fort.  In addition, every hour on the hour, free 20-30 minute Daily Orientation Talks are led by park rangers which explain life in the fort.

Since I had opted not to participate in one of the daily walks or tours, I was on my own with my map, looking forward to seeing all of the things that make San Cristóbal special.

Beginning with the short movie that is run continuously throughout the day, on the hour and the half hour (Spanish on the quarter and three quarters of the hour), I learned about the battles and the construction of the forts.  Some of the relics from the forts times of battle are also on display in the Visitor Center.

Continuing through the long tunnel, I then found myself in the heart of the fort.  There are so many passageways to explore, it is quite a bit difficult to determine, at times, which way to go.  Some of the main items you want to make sure you see are:

Tunnel Systems:  There are many tunnels to explore throughout the fort, one in particular, leading to the dungeon.

Cisterns:  These extremely large cisterns were used for the transport of water during the times of the Spanish Colony and also used as bomb shelters during World War II.

Santa Barbara Chapel:  Located in the central plaza, the chapel was built for the fort’s occupants to offer prayers and worship.  Santa Barbara is the patron saint of persons in danger of fire and explosions and for this reason, the chapel was especially important to the cannoneers working with their dangerous weapons.

Military Uniforms:  A display of uniforms of the soldiers gives insight into how uncomfortable these men must have been in the Caribbean heat.  Made of wool and/or cotton, they were layered and included coats and tights.

Living Quarters:  Beds, uniforms and dining tables are displayed to show how the troops’ quarters looked when the fort was in use.  Make sure to check out the window shutters with graffiti etched into it…ships, dates and Spanish words.

Cannon Balls:  There are many piles of cannonballs, weighing approximately 200 pounds each, on the upper level of the fort.

Flags:  Check out the flags blowing in the breeze, the United States flag, the Puerto Rican flag and the Cross of Burgundy flag.  The latter is a white flag with a red X and was t he Spanish military flag used from the 16th to 18th centuries to identify warships, forts and regiments of troops loyal to the king of Spain.

Sentry Boxes (Garitas):  Located around the outer walls of the fort, the garitas offered a vantage point to watchmen who were guarding the shore.  One particular garita, Garita del Diablo, located by itself close to the water in one of the oldest parts of the fort, is of particular interest to tourists.  Legend tells that guards on duty in this garita, would disappear, taken away by the devel.  Though stories must have run rampant during this time, it was more likely that the guards took advantage of the garitas remote location to escape.  Though this sentry box is inaccessible to tourists, it can still be seen.  There are many other garitas that can be entered and used for photo opportunities.

Outworks:  To the east of the fort is a large stretch of lawn along with some buildings.  This is the Outworks of the fort.  Take a walk around the area to the the layers of defense (moats and walls) from a different perspective.

With so much to enjoy here, take your time to see all parts of San Cristobal.  In addition to the photo opportunities it provides within its walls, its city and coastal views are incredible!  I could see both the Carnival Sunshine and Royal Caribbean’s ships docked as well as other beautiful buildings throughout the city.  Make sure to stand along the water side and take in the panoramic views of the coast from Old San Juan to Condado and beyond…truly spectacular!

After leaving San Cristóbal, it is approximately a one mile picturesque walk to Castillo San Felipe del Morro along Calle Norzagaray.  Since I wanted to stroll through the center of town, doing some shopping along the way, I used Calle Fortaleza then, Calle Clara Lair to the Old City Gate.  Walking along the outer walls on the  Paseo de Morro, I walked along the water, looking out to El Canuelo, another smaller fortification on Goat Island, and made my way through the grounds of Castillo San Felipe del Morro to the front entrance.

Castillo San Felipe del Morro, or El Morro, as it is affectionately known, sits high atop a bluff overlooking the entrance to San Juan Bay.  One of the largest fortifications built by the Spanish in the Caribbean, it took over 250 years to complete (1787) and was built to protect San Juan from invaders by sea.

After crossing the bridge to the fort, I showed my receipt from San Cristóbal and began my own tour of El Morro.

Castillo San Felipe del Morro, named in honor of King Philip II of Spain, lies on the northwestern-most point of the islet of Old San Juan.  Construction of the citadel and its surrounding walls began in 1539, on orders of King Charles V of Spain, seeking a way to defend the port of San Juan by controlling entry to the harbor.  The final design, drawn up in 1587, was based on Spanish military fortification principles of that time and similar structures can be seen throughout the Caribbean and Latin America in Cuba, Dominican Republic, Mexico, Panama, Guatemala and Honduras.

El Morro’s six levels rise from the sea to a height of 145 feet and offer an imposing sight to those arriving by sea.  Nevertheless, El Morro suffered many attacks over the years, from the English in both 1595 and 1598 and from the Dutch in 1625.  During the Spanish-American War, U.S. Navy ships fired upon El Morro, destroying the lighthouse.  As mentioned above, the war ended with the Treaty of Paris, in which Spain ceded ownership of islands of Puerto Rico to the United States.

After the U.S. acquired Puerto Rico, many government buildings, including El Morro, became part of a large U.S. Army post, Fort Brooke.  The large green space in front of El Morro was filled with a hospital, officer’s quarters, officer’s club and sports facilities.  The U.S. Army also added a massive concrete bunker to the top of El Morro to serve as a Harbor Defense Fire Control Station, during World War II, to watch for German submarines.

In 1961, the fort became part of the National Park Service when the United States Army officially retired from the fort.  Declared a World Heritage Site by the United Nations, the esplanade was cleared and restored giving citizens and visitors a wide open space to enjoy the sunny Caribbean days.  Today you can see many people flying kites in the afternoon trade winds, a beautiful site with the castillo in the background.

While walking through the ancient fortification, make sure to take in the case mates, where countless arms were fired and the chapel, where no doubt many a soldier prayed for redemption and safety.  As with San Cristóbal, check out the sentry boxes, or garitas scattered throughout the structures upper levels.

My favorite part, however, is the restored lighthouse.  Sitting 180 feet above sea level, the lighthouse was completed in 1908.  On the upper levels you can also see the same three flags flown on San Cristóbal…the U.S. flag, the Puerto Rican flag and the Cross of Burgundy flag.

Looking out at the massive grounds, the property spreads out along 70 acres, including the killing grounds and the esplanade.  Nearby, you can see the nearby Cemetery of Santa Maria Magdalena de Pazzi.

An interesting fact about El Morro was that it was used as a film set in 1996 for the movie, Amistad, directed by Steven Spielberg, representing a fort in Sierra Leone, where slaves were auctioned in 1839.  Interesting indeed, since slave labor was used to build El Morro.

Castillo San Felipe del Morro is a most amazing structure and if you arrive or depart on a cruise ship, you are in for a treat!  In the afternoon sunlight, you glide right by the Old City Gate, Paseo de Morro and the regal El Morro perched high on its promontory.  One of the most beautiful sights of Puerto Rico!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

 

Castillo San Cristobal

  • https://www.nps.gov/saju/index.htm
  • San Juan, 00901, Puerto Rico
  • Hours:  Open daily, 0900-1800, closed Thanksgiving Day, Christmas Day and New Year’s Day
  • Admission:  Adult, $7.00, Children under 15 years, free.  Admission covers entrance to both forts.
  • Tunnels Tour:  English, 1030, Wednesday, 1030 and 1430, Saturdays.  Spanish, 1430, Wednesday and 1030 and 1230, Sundays.   Approximately 1 hour, maximum group size, 15 people.  Sign up at the front desk prior to the tour.
  • Outworks Tour:  Spanish, Saturdays, 1430, English, Sundays, 1430.
  • Lantern Light Tour:  Spanish, Sundays, 1800-1900, English, Tuesdays, 1800-1900.  Ranger led.

 

Castillo San Felipe del Morro

  • https://www.nps.gov/saju/index.htm
  • Address:  501 Calle Norzagaray, San Juan, 00901, Puerto Rico
  • Hours:  Open daily, 0900-1800, closed Thanksgiving Day, Christmas Day and New Year’s Day
  • Admission:  Adult, $7.00, Children under 15 years, free.  Admission covers entrance to both forts.
  • Tours:  El Morro, Keystone to Protection of the Spanish Empire Tour, English, Saturdays, 1030 English and Sundays, 1430.  Spanish, Saturdays, 1430 and Sundays, 1030.  Short informational talks are available every day in the main plaza of Castillo San Felipe del Morro

Make sure to wear comfortable shoes when visiting either of the forts as some of the flooring can be uneven, slippery and offer lots of stairways and bring lots of water, especially on hot days as the heat is intensified by the stone.

 

The Red Gate

© 2018 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Everyone likes to make an entrance.

In 1634, construction began on strong city walls which were to protect the city of San Juan from enemy attacks.  Completion of the twenty foot thick masonry walls took 148 years and six gates (puertas) were constructed to allow access through the walls into the city.  Each of the gates was protected by a sentry box (garita) to shelter the guards and the entryways were secured at night with no access until morning.

The San Juan Gate (Puerta de San Juan) was the formal entrance to the city and was the point of entry where Spanish dignitaries arrived.  After access was granted, these dignitaries, made their way up the cobblestone streets, to Catedral San Juan Bautista (also known as San Juan Cathedral), to thank God for their safe voyage.

The other five gates spaced throughout the three-mile wall were used to transport materials and supplies and also to allow for everyday traffic.  Today, only Puerta de San Juan, and inestimable landmark, is accessible to tourists and is a must-see in the historic city.  Located southwest of Castillo San Felipe del Morro, the gate is continually open and after passing through, panoramic views of San Juan Bay, the busiest ocean port in the Caribbean, Isla de Cabras (Goat Island) and a small Spanish fort, El Canuelo, across the channel can be appreciated.  The path, through the gate, leads to Paseo del Morro, the National Recreation Trail which skirts the coast, following the city walls (La Muralla) from the gate to the notable citadel.

As you approach the gate, you will notice an inscription, Benedictus qui venit in nomine Domini.  The verse comes from The Sanctus, “Holy”, a Latin hymn from Catholic liturgy and means, “Blessed is he who comes in the name of the Lord”.

As I made my way through the gate, I made a stop to inspect the sentry box on the coastal side of the wall.  Following Paseo del Morro’s flawlessly paved path, I marveled at the waves sometimes pounding the shore on one side and the ancient wall on the other, repeatedly marked with garitas.  At the end of my one and a half mile trek, I suddenly realized that the path ended.  Many people will tell you that you should retrace your steps back to the San Juan Gate, however, along with a German family, I found an entrance to the grounds of El Morro fort, a remarkable structure that was next on my list.

And the story of the fortified city continues…

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

 

San Juan Gate

  • https://sanjuanpuertorico.com/la-puerta-de-san-juan-san-juan-gate/
  • Address:   Cll Caleta De San Juan, San Juan, 00901, Puerto Rico
  • Hours:  Open 24 hours
  • Admission:  Free
  • Getting There:  From the Cathedral, follow Caleta de San Juan westward.

 

 

 

 

Maria Was Here

© 2018 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

In September, a massive category five hurricane devastated Puerto Rico and many other Caribbean islands, killing 547 people.

We noticed that our cruise itinerary included a stop in San Juan.  Speaking with my travel representative, I was told at the time of booking that while Puerto Rico was still recovering, they were anticipating being able to accept tourists and cruise ships by the time of our arrival.

We were still a bit skeptical as to the condition of the island, but we had been to Puerto Rico before and we didn’t feel the need to book an excursion or feel that we had to go out and see anything, if the island was not quite ready.

Since our day in St. Kitts was cancelled the day before, however, I was antsy and ready to get off of the boat to stretch my legs.  Not long after the doors were opened, I was on my way to check out the city.

First heading to San Cristobal Fort, I then made my way though the city and thru Plaza de Colon, stopping to admire the colorful Christmas decorations.  After my visit to San Cristobal, I headed west past the throngs of cruisers (both Carnival and Royal Caribbean were docked) eager to spend their money in the many establishments in Old Town.

San Cristobal

Although a few buildings were still boarded up, I was pleasantly surprised to find that the most of the Spanish colonial buildings in Old Town appeared to be in good shape and open for business, their colorful architecture standing strong with Puerto Rican flags proudly flying  in the morning breeze.

Catedral San Juan Bautista

As I continued through the city, stopping at the the Church of Saint Francis of Assisi and the Cathedral of San Juan Bautista, passing through the Old City Gate and strolling along the fortified walls of Castillo San Felipe del Morro, I looked out at the Bay of San Juan, over to El Cañelo fort on Isla de Cabras (Goat Island), thinking how peaceful the blue-green waters now appeared.  Never…ever…could I imagine how these seas must have looked and the power they unleashed a few short months ago.

Church of Saint Francis of Assisi
Church of Saint Francis of Assisi

 

San Juan City Gate
Fortified city walls

Speaking with a shop owner, I was listened in horror as he recalled the storm’s wrath as the hurricane destroyed his home and what he and his family experienced in the aftermath.  You could see the joy in his face as he expressed how happy he was to see people walking through the cobblestone streets, eating at the restaurants and shopping in the stores.

Maria will forever leave its mark on the beautiful island, if not visibly, absolutely in the residents’ minds.  Though many parts of the island are still without power, the residents are forging ahead, attempting to attain normalcy.  The first steps involve getting tourists to come back, however, many are quite shy, since a large number of hotels are not back to operational standards.  The return of cruise ships, however, is a lifesaver, as tourists are able to see the progress and spread the word that Puerto Rico, is indeed, on the word to recovery.

Throughout the island, the people of Puerto Rico would like the world to know, “Our island is officially open for tourism and ready to welcome you.”

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

 

Puerto Rico

  • http://puertoriconow.seepuertorico.com/
  • Tourism in numbers (according to the Puerto Rico Tourism website):  107 attractions are open, 70 daily flights are operating, 122 hotels are operating, 15 casinos are open, 4000 restaurants are open, 156 travel agencies are open.

 

Walkin’ On Sunshine

© 2018 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Cruises…we’ve taken a few.

Summer vacations, spring breaks, birthday trips.  In recent years, these occasions are when we have opted to travel via cruise ship.  Never, however, had we taken a cruise during Christmastime.

Christmas on a cruise ship seemed so exciting to me…decorations throughout the ship (that I didn’t have to put up), the cruise director leading Christmas carols, Christmas dinner being cooked, served and cleaned up and my whole family spending time together lying in the sun while we traveled from port to port.

After convincing our children that this was a much better idea than traveling to cold-weathered Europe and having to figure out where our Christmas dinner was going to come from, we booked our rooms and packed out bags.

Despite the long drive from Virginia to Port Canaveral, we were in high spirits when we boarded the Carnival Sunshine.  The weather was warm and as we sailed out of the port, we called our families and wished them an early Merry Christmas.

Though not one of the largest ships we had been on, the Sunshine was still much bigger than the ones used for the shorter 3, 4 and 5 day cruises we had taken in the past.

The Carnival Sunshine, was christened the Carnival Destiny in Venice, Italy in November 1996 and was the first passenger ship ever built to be over 100,000 tons.  After sixteen and a half years of service, she received major renovations to be classified as one of Carnival’s Fun Ships and became the Carnival Sunshine on May 5, 2013 with her rechristening in New Orleans on November, 17, 2013.

Checking out our rooms, as we boarded the ship, we discovered nothing more than we had anticipated.  Our boys’ room was outfitted with two twin beds plus a third pull-down bed from the ceiling and our room was rearranged into a king bed.  Happy to find it clean and neat, we were thrilled to meet steward, Alexis, who did a wonderful job at accommodating two of our children’s late sleeping habits in his attempts to clean the room daily.  He and the entire staff always had a smile and treated us with amazing towel animals!

Initially, our time was spent exploring the ship, discovering where the things that interested us were located and attempting to enjoy some relaxation. It was nice to see the ship decked out for the Christmas holiday and we even added to the spirit of things by bringing our own Christmas trees, stockings and door decorations.

As with any cruise, however, there can be some challenges as with good times.

Food      I must say that we were quite impressed with most of the food offerings on the Carnival Sunshine.  For breakfast, we enjoyed both the buffet and the omelet stations at the rear of the ship in the Havana lounge.  Most people did not see the breakfast bites located on the side of the bar, but these were Cuban inspired pastries and were absolutely divine!  We also enjoyed the breakfast burritos from the Blue Iguana located poolside.  Though only open from 8:00 am, we could only enjoy these on days we were not leaving the ship early.  Our lunches were mostly taken on the pool deck. We loved the Guy Fieri Burgers and the tacos and burritos at Blue Iguana (the freshly made tortillas were awesome), but also enjoyed the Italian restaurant, Cucina del Capitano, which was by reservation (and surcharge) at night, but open for lunch on days at sea.  We enjoyed the Dine Anytime option and only waited a short time on a couple of nights.  The waiters worked very diligently each night and most of the food options were good, offering many choices, though I never thought the desserts were worth wasting calories on.

Drinks      Initially deciding to purchase the drink package for both myself and my husband, we investigated the details and after some thought, decided against it for me.  Since my husband and I were officially booked into two different cabins, we were able to purchase the package for only one of us.  If we had been booked in the same cabin, we would both have had to purchase the package, which allows 15 drinks per day, spaced at least five minutes apart.  Not wanting the pressure to reach the 15 drink goal per day, I decided only on the soda package.  Since we don’t drink much during the day, it would have been hard to reach the 15 drink limit, starting in the evenings, not making the purchase price worth our while.  Eventually, my husband started to figure out how to work the system, by going to the bar early on and saving the screw top beers (Coors Light) for later use in the room fridge.

Entertainment     My children really enjoyed the outdoor activities located on the uppermost deck;  miniature golf, basketball court, large-size chess, ropes course and water slides, pool tables, ping pong.  I do have to say that because it was a Christmas cruise, there were many children and this area was always extremely busy, sometimes incurring waits in order to enjoy some of the activities.  The pool deck area had a large outdoor movie screen and movies were shown nightly, although we never took the time to enjoy this feature.  The Punchliner Comedy Club showcased some hilarious comedians and the themed shows held in the Liquid Lounge were much better than we anticipated and quite entertaining.  There were many trivia contests, bingo nights and other competitions held throughout our eight-day cruise, including beer pong and lip-sync battles.  We never did make it to the disco that was set up in the Liquid Lounge on most nights, however, there was a Deck Party held in the pool area that everyone seemed to enjoy with line dancing and a Bon Voyage party to say goodbye to Grand Turk and the adjacent docked Carnival Glory, where everyone congregated on the leeward deck, danced and waved goodbye.

Gym/Spa    The gym area was well equipped and was not extremely busy when I visited.  I did notice some classes that were offered, however, by the second morning, all spots had been signed for and only waiting lists were available.  A walking track was also available on the upper deck, however, most people on this level did not seem to pay attention to the fact that some were trying to exercise, pulling chairs onto or walking aimlessly on the track.  The Spa was located just before the gym and though we did not utilize any of their services, the waiting area seemed to be quite busy.

Sun Decks      Being that it was winter, one of the things I so looked forward to was the ability to lay in the sun and relax with a book.  Carnival has a rule that chairs may not be reserved and if vacant for forty minutes, personal belongings will be removed.  I never saw anyone enforcing this rule and unless you reserved a chair early in the day, by putting personal belongings on it, you were out of luck for the rest of the day in finding one spot, much less two or three (or five) together.  The Serenity Adults Only Retreat is touted as a quiet haven where only adults are allowed to enjoy peace and quiet.  On only one day were we able to find a spot in this crowded area, due to another patron reporting teenage cruisers using the loungers.  When this group left, we were able to secure two of the chairs.  With such a busy cruise (capacity of 3002), I was disappointed to see that more chairs were not made available, especially on the Fun Days at Sea, even though I spotted stacks of chairs still chained up.

Communication     One of the challenging parts of being on a cruise is that you can’t use your cell phone to check in with your party…until now.  Carnival developed a great app, Carnival Hub, for this purpose.  After downloading the app, everyone can sign up and pay $5, for the entire trip, to use the app’s messaging system.  After working out, it was awesome to just send a message to my husband to find where they were hanging out, instead of wandering aimlessly, hoping to find them.  The other plus about this app is that there is no checking the paper schedules each day.  Although they did still deliver these to your room (a huge waste of paper), I would imagine that the app will one day eliminate the paper schedules.  At any time of the day, you could check the app for the planned activities and even see what meals were being served and where.  The app also offered maps of the ship and access to your on board sail and sign purchases so that you could monitor them regularly instead of at the end of your cruise.  Way to go Carnival!

Ports      The itinerary for this cruise was Port Canaveral (departure), At Sea, Grand Turk, At Sea, St. Kitts, San Juan, Amber Cove, At Sea, Port Canaveral (arrival).  We enjoyed our Christmas Day in Grand Turk laying in the sun on the beach.  Looking forward to our arrival in St. Kitts, we were disappointed when, island in sight, we were informed that the winds were too high and current to strong to make it into port safely…yet, there were two other ships already docked.  Our initial thought was that Carnival was not being truthful, especially when we heard that five ships were due in port that day, a number that seemed quite high.  Eventually, our suspicions were validated when we were told by many of the staff that the port had been overbooked.  Most disappointing, since St. Kitts was the one of the primary reasons for booking this particular cruise.  Not sure what to expect from San Juan, since the serious devastation by Hurricane Maria, we were pleasantly surprised to find that the beautiful Old Town is recovering and happily receiving tourists again!  Our last port, Amber Cove, appeared to be a wonderful place to spend time with its water park and amazing shopping.  Since we had booked an excursion and were late to arrive back in port, our only glimpse of Amber Cove was upon our arrival from the boat and when we disembarked to meet our tour guide.

Punctuality      The boat departed on time, however, we felt that we were always a bit late into port.   This was very disappointing, especially when we were only in port for short periods of time and our late arrival cut into plans for the day.  The worst part of the cruise was when we were informed that we would be arriving into port late on our last day due to failing engines.  Many people were inconvenienced with departing flights, especially since it was New Year’s Eve and guests were trying to make it home for plans that evening.  The ship did not do much to assist in the order of disembarkation, with the whole process becoming a bit of a free-for-all.

When all was said and done, it was wonderful to be with my husband and children during Christmas in a festive atmosphere (and I didn’t have to cook and clean!).  Maybe next time, we will try another cruise line.

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Carnival Cruises

Grand Turk

St. Kitts

San Juan

  • https://sanjuanpuertorico.com/

Amber Cove