Walking along the River Reuss, between the ancient bridges that traverse the waterway, I looked over…
and spied a cross across the river…topping a church.
The Jesuit church, with its recognizable onion domed bell-towers, governs the left bank of the river. The first Baroque church built in Switzerland, it is also considered to be one of the most beautiful. Designed by Italian and Austrian architects, under the guidance of Jesuit Father Christoph Vogler, construction began in 1666 and the church was consecrated a short eleven years later. Though the interior was still lacking, the shell and main facade were completed. Upon the time of consecration, several side altars were still missing as well as the high altar and the towers were finally completed in 1893.
A major tourist attraction, I anticipated seeing throngs of people entering and exiting the building, however, all was quiet in front of the church, leading me to expect to find the doors locked. Surprisingly, I found them open and made my way into the beautiful interior.
When in Lucerne, it is best to cross the river and view the church from the other side of the river to admire the simplistic nature of its facade. As you enter, however, make sure to reexamine the facade from a closer perspective. It is over the entrance door where you can find the beautifully carved statue of the Jesuit missionary Saint Francis Xavier, the patron saint of the church.
Inside the church it is light and airy with gray and rose colored relief decorations embellishing the white interior. The nave, leading to the altar, displays a decorated vaulted ceiling depicting the glory of Saint Francis Xavier. At the front of the church is a grand altar-piece made of pink marble…or so you think. Upon closer inspection, you realize that it is actually made of plaster and stucco, a process perfected in the southern Alps where marble is difficult to transport.
As I turned to gaze back at the way that I came, I was able to see the main Metzler organ, built from 1980-1982, with parts from an organ dating back to the 18th century. This organ is frequently used for recitals held in the church.
Enjoying the side chapels, the most interesting I discovered is dedicated to Brother Klaus, a famous Swiss patron, whose life-sized statue stands clothed in a brown monk’s habit.
While the church no longer provides an important religious life, with the adjacent monastery college being abandoned, it does provide tourists with a destination within the Alstadt and both locals and visitors with a magnificent concert venue which comes alive with the sensational acoustics.
If you are in the mood to pray, reflect or admire…check out the Jesuit Church in Lucerne, one of its architectural gems.
Efficient and far-reaching, it’s easy to go out and explore all that the country has to offer.
Having recently gotten a taste of venturing out to another city in Switzerland, I was ready for more! So…it was off to the train station to see what else I could discover.
The winner on this particular day?
Lucerne. Located only an hour from Zurich, it is an easy trip, albeit expensive, for the short time I had to spend there. The small city is known for its preserved medieval architecture, imposing mountains and beautiful Lake Lucerne.
History, architecture and nature! I couldn’t wait!
As we arrived at the modern train station, we anxiously peeked out in hopes that the blues skies that had been promised in the forecast were visible above.
No such luck.
A cool afternoon, it was quite overcast, the dim gray skies exaggerated by the dwindling light of the approaching winter season, yet, we anxiously ventured out, eager to see what the city would present.
When I had researched the Swiss city, the picture that I came across most often was of the beautiful bridges that span the River Reuss in the colorful Alstadt (Old Town).
This is what I most wanted to see and as luck would have it, they were extremely close to the station.
A quick two minute walk, past the archway (welcoming us to Lucerne) and a festive carousel brought us to the river. Just like in the pictures, here it was…the Kapellbrücke (Chapel Bridge)! I was aware that the bridge was beautiful from its exterior, yet when we set foot inside, I found out that so much more was to be discovered.
The 17th century, covered, diagonal footbridge links the Aldstadt to the Reuss River’s right bank. Destroyed by fire in 1993, it has been restored to it original beauty and is the oldest wooden, covered, truss bridge in Europe.
Named after St. Peter’s Chapel, located nearby, the bridge gives off the feeling of an ancient church, with its dark wood structure and ancient wood paneled paintings. These paintings, dating back to the 17th century, were created by local Catholic painter, Hans Heinrich Wägmann, during the Counter-Reformation. Though most of the originals, depicting events from Lucerne’s history, were destroyed in the devastating fire, about 30 were fully restored and command your full attention, sometimes requiring you to step to the side to allow those traversing the walkway to pass, while you spend a few moments studying each panel. These panels display the life and death of Lucerne’s patron saints, St. Leger and St. Maurice.
Also part of the bridge complex is the Wasserturm, or water tower, which stands proudly in the waters of the Reuss. Built about 30 years before the bridge’s construction, the tower has served as a prison, torture chamber and a municipal archive. Today, the tower houses a local artillery association and a tourist gift shop, however, it does not host visitors, except those seeking Swiss mementos.
Truly the symbol of Lucerne, I was awe-struck by the Kapellbrücke’s grand beauty, enhanced by the bright pink flowers that line its periphery. Once we crossed the bridge, assisted some beautiful young Japanese travelers with memorable photos and grabbed a quick beer in the nearby pub, it was time to head up the river to the other venerable structure which crossses Lake Lucerne’s tributary.
Linking the left and right banks of the River Reuss is the Spreuerbrücke. The Spreuerbrücke, or Spreuer Bridge, earning its name from the chaffs of wheat which were thrown in the river here, dates back to 1408 and was part of the city’s fortification. The bridge was constructed to connect the Mühlenplatz (Mill Place) on the right bank with the mills in the middle of the river.
From 1626 and for the next nine years, Kaspar Meglinger decorated the triangular panels in the bridge with 67 paintings that represent the Danse Macabre, leading everyone to understand that death is everywhere. Forty-five of the originals are still in existence today and contain the coat of arms of the donor in the lower left corner and coat of arms of the donor’s wife in the right. These paintings also contain portraits of the donors and explanations and the names of the donors.
Not the original bridge, the Spreüerbrucke was destroyed in 1566 by floodwaters but rebuilt with an added grain storehouse as the bridge head called the Herrenkeller. A small chapel can also be found in the middle of the bridge, a spot also marked with a crucifix mounted on the outside of the structure.
After crossing the Spreüerbrucke, though we wandered alongside the river, the third bridge was not to be found…the Hofbrücke, which once existed, was demolished in the 19th century.
Life in Lucerne revolves around its proximity to water as is evident by the Old Town’s location on the river’s banks. It’s easy to spend time perusing the historic homes, embellished with frescoes, that line the waterfront, browsing the watch and souvenir shops or dining at one of the many restaurants while watching joggers run by and swans glide gracefully in the clear, glacial water.
Though there was much more to explore in lovely Lucerne, I was glad that we had started with the bridges, the symbols of the city. Yet, our day wasn’t over. We had so much more to discover!
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Sometimes you feel as if you have seen all there is to see in a city, even though you haven’t.
Take the time to move on for a while and come back later.
Maybe because I always seem to be in Zurich on Sundays, when everything is closed, is why I always feel as if there is nothing to do. So, sometimes, I dread my trips to the Swiss city if I will be there on the seventh day of the week. Not to say that there isn’t more to see, I just never seem to be there when it is available.
Having explored much of the city near the lake and the Old Town, I had grown a little tire of that area (Gasp…yes, I said that!) and was interested in finding another part of the city (or even country) to investigate.
Since I was going to have some time in Zurich during the beautiful crisp days of Fall, I decided that I was going to venture out of the city to see what I could find.
A friend of mine from Schaffhausen suggested that I take the train to the Rhine Falls if the weather was nice.
Arriving to bright sunshine, I decided to forego my nap, head to the train station and find my way to what is described as the largest waterfall in not only Switzerland, but Europe!
Located on the High Rhine, the falls are 492 feet wide, 75 meters high and were formed approximately 14,000 to 17,000 years ago by erosion-resistant rocks narrowing the riverbed.
Deciding to make a connection in Wintertur in order to keep the ticket price a bit lower, I boarded the train and watched the rolling hills fly by until I arrived in my connecting station. As luck would have it, my connecting train was on the next track and I was quickly on my way to my final station.
About an hour after I departed, I was arriving in Schloss Laufen am Rheinfall.
Since I had arrived on the southern bank (the paid side), I purchased my ticket using the automated machine and passed through the turnstile making my way down the shady path. The sound of the water guided me along the trails and at each viewing platform, I relished the beautiful views, each one surpassing the previous.
As I made my way toward the falls, I was thrilled to discover an opening in the rocks, leading to a cave opening up directly to the falling water…the air moist and the roar of rushing water deafening in the small space! Despite the low lighting, it was an amazing photo opportunity and a unique perspective of the natural phenomenon.
Following the winding path back toward the way I had come, I continued onward until reaching the boat dock. Here I analyzed the different boat tours offered. The first option a 15 minute ride would bring me right in front of the falls (7.00 CHF) and the second, a 30 minute minute ride provided a stop at the tall rock in the center of the falls with a viewing platform at the top (20.00 CHF). Since I was toting my expensive camera and didn’t want to get wet on the cool afternoon, I opted for the short tour.
Boarding a boat (included in tour price), I crossed the Rhine and disembarked on the other side, moving to the boarding area for Tour 4, with the boat captain calling for boarding a few minutes later.
Pulling away from the dock, we sailed away into the river, along north bank and passed so near the falls that the mist descended upon us quickly. Despite getting a little wet, however, the views from this vantage point were remarkable, exhibiting the magnificent power of the raging waters.
During my fifteen minute expedition, we cruised back and forth in front of the falls allowing me to get some amazing photos and also see what I missed by not venturing to the top of the rock in the middle of the river. Everyone at the top of the rock was wearing ponchos and their hair was quite damp! It made me (and my camera) glad that I chose the shorter (and cheaper) boat tour.
As the boat deposited me back at the dock, I decided to walk along the shore and see what else was offered.
There were food trucks and restaurants offering a vast array of food and drink and a beautiful path along the waterway. Meandering slowly so that I could enjoy the views and the sunshine, I soon shed my coat and took a seat on one many benches placed strategically so that visitors could relax and enjoy the spectacle that the falls offer.
Continuing on my way, I came to the 17th century mill, which once contained a blast furnace for smelting iron ore in the limestone. In operation until the first half of the 19th century, it now offers beautiful photo opportunities though nothing more.
Once again, on my way, I discovered pathways leading both into the town of Schaffhausen and up the steep embankments toward the railway bridge leading back to the Schloss Laufen. Since I wasn’t sure how to retrace my steps back to Zurich from the Schaffhausen train station, nor whether my ticket would be valid, I headed toward the bridge, positive that it would take me back to the station in which I had arrived.
The pathways were shady and well kept with many overlooks offering outstanding views of the falls from different perspectives and I took my time to enjoy them all. Finally, I arrived at the railway bridge and happily found a pedestrian walkway leading toward Schloss Laufen.
The castle, a seat of the barons of Laufen has a rich history including the ownership by grand nobility. Once operating as a wine tavern, the castle has also offered rooms as a youth hostel since 1946. Though I didn’t venture inside, I did walk the grounds of the castle, the cemetery and the nearby church, even poking my head in for a quick prayer for a safe trip back to Zurich.
Heading back to the platform, it was time to make the hour’s journey back to Old Town and a warm dinner, despite the exhaustion I was starting to feel due to lack of sleep.
So…was heading out of the city to the Rhine Falls worth the hour’s journey?
Absolutely!
Witnessing nature’s beauty first hand…so worth the lack of sleep!
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Address: Rheinfallquai 32, 8212 Neuhausen am Rheinfall
Hours: Northern banks, Neuhausen am Rheinfall/Schaffhausen, free access 24 hours a day, 365 days a year. Southern banks with Schloss Laufen, Dachsen/Zurich, viewing platform access open 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. Souvenir Shop/Ticketing/Historama, June, July and August, 0800-1900. September, October, April and May, 0900-1800. November, February and March, 0900-1700. December and January, 1000-1600.
Admission: Northern banks with Schlössli Wörth, Neuhausen am Rheinfall/Schaffhausen, free admission. Southern banks with Schloss Laufen am Rheinfall, Dachsen/Zurich, 5.00 CHF per person. Included in the ticket price, access to the Historama and the viewing platforms. Children, ages 6-15 years, 3.00 CHF. Groups, 15-29 persons, 3.00 CHF per person. Groups, more than 30 persons, 2.00 CHF. Prices, 1 CHF is equal to 1 USD.
Boat Tours: Short Tour, 15 minutes, Adults, 7.00 CHF, Children, ages 6-16, 4.00 CHF. Long Tour with stop at the rock, 30 minutes , Adults, 20.00 CHF, Children, ages 6-16, 15.00 CHF. Audioguide Tour, 30 minutes, Adults, 10.00 CHF, Children, ages 6-16, 7.00 CHF
Getting There: Direct trains are available from Zurich HB to Schloss am Laufen and Schaffhausen. Connections can also be made in Wintertur (prices lower with connection). When arriving in Schaffhausen, the Rhyfall Express train runs between the historic old town and the falls and takes approximately 20 minutes.
St. Vincent de Paul was born on April 24, in 1581 in the region of Landes, France. Growing up with deeply religious beliefs, he felt the calling to the priesthood early on and was ordained at the age of 19.
Working as a chaplain for Queen Margaret de Valois, he also served as a tutor to the Gondi family. It was during this time that he realized the inequities between the rich and poor and took on the rectification of this situation as his life’s mission.
After sixty years in the priesthood, where he served the poor and suffering, St. Vincent de Paul died on September 27, 1660. Canonized only 77 years later (considered record time) by Pope Clement XII, he was considered a saint among saints and such a Catholic superstar that in 1969, Pope Paul VI added his Feast Day to the official calendar as the 27th of September.
On a brisk fall day, it was this illustrious saint that I had come in search of in the 7th arrondissement of Paris. Located only a couple of blocks from the Chapel of the Miraculous Medal, where the saint’s heart is enshrined, the Shrine of St. Vincent de Paul (not to be confused with the Church of St. Vincent de Paul in the 10th arrondissement) is located inside the Church of the Lazarists Mission and houses a wax effigy of the saint.
Entering the church, I was surprised to find something extremely different from the Chapel of the Miraculous Medal, which I had just visited. An impressive festooned interior with intricate details decorating the walls, columns and doorways was framed by a high arched ceiling enhanced with blue and gold painting and framed, gilded medallions. While my impression of the Chapel of the Miraculous Medal had been of one that was light and airy, this church was more grand and elaborate and my eyes were immediately drawn to the grand altar filled with statues. Above the tabernacle, I could see the glass reliquary and St. Vincent de Paul’s likeness displayed within.
Since I had conducted some research before my visit, I was aware of the story of his exhumation. When first unearthed, the saint’s body first appeared to be incorrupt, however, when flooding damaged the area where his body had been placed, it began to show signs of decay. His heart was removed and sent to the Chapel of the Miraculous Medal and his skeletal remains covered with wax giving him a very realistic appearance.
Following the modest story of St. Vincent de Paul, conveyed through the pictures displayed in the stained glass and a canvas by Brother Francois, I walked along the side aisles which also displayed many statues and the casket containing the remains of St. Jean-Gabriel Perboyre. The polished marble floor reflected the lighting and the beautiful blue tiled ceilings.
From my viewpoint in front of the altar, I looked upward, admiring the glass and silver reliquary, designed by Odiot, the best goldsmith of his era. I bowed my head, said a prayer and continued on throughout the remainder of the church. As I neared the exit, I turned for one last look and a movement at the reliquary caught my eye.
A person.
Thinking it must be a member of the staff, I once again prepared to depart when I noticed the person hold up their cellphone for a selfie.
There had to be a way up there.
Making my way back toward the front of the church, I began to search for the way up. Deep behind the altar, I found it…a dual stairway, on either side, leading up to the holy treasure!
An easy climb led me to the top, allowing for the veneration of the relics at an amazingly close distance, and also being able to appreciate the outstanding craftsmanship of the reliquary, the intricate statues that guard the icon and a bird’s eye view of the church.
Thankful that I had turned for that one last look…I may have missed the most important part of this unique shrine.
Missing the ability to be so near the reliquary of such an important Catholic saint is only part of the issue with the church. A simple structure that one may just stroll by while in the area due to its plain facade, it must be sought out with a purpose. It is not a structure that a person simply stumbles upon…unless you like entering random doorways…however, it is one that any person with an affinity for Catholic history should seek out. Not only a beautiful church, it is one that honors an amazing Catholic saint.
Seek out this superstar…he’s still shining bright.
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The Shrine of Saint Vincent de Paul
Address: 95 Rue de Sèvres, 75007 Paris, France
Hours: 0800-1200 and 1400-1900 (unverified)
Admission: free
Getting There: By Metro, Vaneau or Sèvres-Babylone stations. By Bus, number 39, 70 and 87.
Having associated the city with its beautiful churches, cathedrals and miracles that have occurred within the country, I truly love the peace it gives me when I visit.
Years ago, I found myself with an extra day to fill while in the city. Wandering through a part of town that I had never been to, I found the Chapel of Our Lady Miraculous Medal, tucked away on Rue de Bac, the location where the Blessed Virgin Mary appeared to Catherine Labouré in 1830.
The chapel’s location, is quite inconspicuous and I doubt that you would find it if you were not actively trying to do so. Even so, thousands of visitors make their way to the chapel each year to attend mass and purchase the medals that Our Lady requested to be created.
Dating back to 1813, the chapel was dedicated to the Sacred Heart of Jesus and located in the Hôtel de Châtillon. It was expanded in 1849 and many times in the years after its inception. The chapel we see today, was completed in 1930, however, the tabernacle, dating back to the seventeenth or eighteenth century is still as it was in 1815, coming from the building given to the Daughters of Charity in 1800.
When Catherine Labouré was a seminary sister at the mother house of the Daughters of Charity of Saint Vincent de Paul, she began having visions. In the first, Saint Vincent de Paul showed her his heart, each time in a different color; white (peace), red (fire) and black (misfortunes that would come upon Paris and the entire country). Her second vision displayed Christ presented in the Sacred Host, and then on The Feast of the Holy Trinity, He appeared as a crucified King, stripped of his adornments.
Her final vision came at the age of 24, when she received three visits from the Blessed Virgin Mary. On July 18, the Blessed Virgin requested that Confraternity of the Children of Mary be established. Mary’s second request was that a medal be created with the following invocation, “O Mary, conceived without sin, pray for us who have recourse to thee.” Following her orders, the medal was forged and since its creation, countless miracles have been attributed to the medal as well as conversions and protection for those seeking it.
Everyone knows about the miracles that occur at Lourdes, however, it has been said that more miracles have occurred through devotion to the Blessed Mother while praying with this medal. It became known as the Miraculous Medal when during the cholera epidemic in Paris, in 1832, the Sisters handed out medals and many people were unexpectedly cured and then turned their faith to God.
The first thing you notice upon entering the chapel, besides the large number of the devoted bowing their heads in prayer, is how light and airy the space is. High ceilings frame the chapel and tall columns line either side, making way for the side aisles containing the shrine of Saint Louise de Marillac, co-foundress with Saint Vincent de Paul of the Daughters of Charity and the reliquary containing the heart of Saint Vincent de Paul.
As I approached the altar, I admired the tabernacle decorated with an angel carrying a cross and its carved door depicting the nativity, crowned with a shining star. The tabernacle is flanked by two light-carrying angels and topped by a beautiful ivory crucifix. Towering above the tabernacle is the large marble statue of the Virgin with the Rays.
Another statue of Mary, the Virgin of the Globe, caught my eye, holding the world in her hands.
I walked over to inspect the aisle dedicated to Saint Vincent de Paul which contains the Altar of the Apparitions, a mosaic by Maison Maurmejean and the most important piece, the relic of the heart of Saint Vincent de Paul, which was brought to Paris from Turin during the Revolution.
Crossing over to the other aisle, I gazed upon the body of Saint Louise de Marillac, which has rested inside the chapel since 1920.
The main attraction of the chapel, however, is Catherine Labouré. Buried in the chapel in Enghien-Reuilly, the location of her death, the vault was opened at the time of her beautification and her body was found to be perfectly intact. It was transferred to the chapel and presently lies under the altar of Our Lady of the Globe in a glass coffin. Many of the faithful kneel before her, laying down their burdens and tribulations.
After a few minutes spent in prayer, I headed out into the courtyard and into the gift shop. There are many styles and sizes of the Miraculous Medal available for purchase as well as rosaries, prayer books and prayer cards.
A site of spirituality and miracles, a visit to the Chapel of Our Lady of the Miraculous Medal is a must for true believers. See the spot where these holy apparitions took place and see the person responsible for the medal. Purchase one, wear it and share it with other faithfuls.
The Miraculous Medal Prayer
O Virgin Mother of God, Mary Immaculate, We dedicate and consecrate ourselves to you under the title of Our Lady of the Miraculous Medal. May this Medal be for each one of us a sure sign of your affection for us and a constant reminder of our duties toward you. Ever while wearing it, may we be blessed by your loving protection and preserved in the grace of your Son. O Most Powerful Virgin, Mother of Our Savior, keep us close to you every moment of our lives. Obtain for us, your children, the grace of a happy death; so that in union with you, we may enjoy the bliss of Heaven forever. Amen.
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How many years had it been since I visited Madrid?
Two or three at least.
As much as my tired body wanted to sleep the afternoon away, the city that I had missed all that time, was beckoning. After a small nap, I met up with a local friend of mine that I had planned to spend the afternoon with. She explained that she had wanted to take me to Real Monasterio de San Lorenzo de El Escorial, the burial site of Spanish kings and queens, but it was Monday and she was dismayed to find that it was closed, as many things are in Spain on Mondays.
In a bit of a panic, especially when she learned that I had nothing else in mind, she made a quick call to her brother. What to do? What to do?
Pedraza.
Jumping into her car, we headed out of the city and onto the highway. About an hour and a half later, we were pulling into the walled city.
Located in the province of Segovia, the small medieval town of approximately 500 residents, has retained its old world style. Porticoes, old stone houses, and cobblestone streets stand in stark contrast to the modern, metropolis of nearby Madrid and it has been described as one of the most beautiful small towns in Spain.
We parked our car and made our way past small hotels, shops and residences into the Plaza Mayor, which was mostly quiet except for a couple of other small tourist groups. Heading to the main restaurant, we ordered beers and tapas and took a seat outside in the late afternoon sunshine.
I can honestly say, I don’t know I’ve ever experienced something so serene, so simplistic and so historic. It truly felt as though we were enjoying our beverages and food on a movie set. It is here, in the square, that the town holds the Concierto de las Velas festival during La Noche de las Velas in July, where the residents of the town light candles along the streets and in their residences and multiple concerts are held featuring varying types of Spanish classical music.
Feeling rejuvenated, we headed up the dirt road toward the Pedraza Castle, passing the church and its bell tower topped with a huge stork’s nest.
Though the castle was closed, we were able to walk around the exterior and take pictures of the sturdy structure. Acquired by painter Ignacio Zuloaga, in 1925, the purchase cemented the artist’s love of the area that his artistic eye always desired to capture.
The original building dated back to the days of the Romans and was an impenetrable fortress that housed the sons of Francis I, King of France after his signing of the “Treaty of Madrid”. So that Francis I kept his word, his sons, aged 11 and 10 were kept in the castle under the Emperor’s orders until their ransom was paid.
Today, the castle is still owned by the Zuloaga family and can be visited if the family is not in residence.
We continued our walk through the town and found ourselves at the impressive gate. Nearby was a doorway and it appeared to be welcoming guests. The Carcel de la Villa, or jail, was located in the “Tower” and had several rooms in which prisoners were kept. We paid our entrance fee, however, since I did not speak fluent Spanish, we opted to skip the guided tour. We were given a written guide and moved through the space on our own, learning about its unique history on two levels, the upper, reserved for smaller delinquents and the basement, for dangerous criminals.
We walked back through the gate and made our way on the outside of the town’s walls and to our waiting car.
Though it was a weekday and much quieter than when heavier crowds descend on the town on the weekends, it was a wonderful and unique way to spend the fall afternoon. The historic city walls were beautiful and the restored buildings remarkably perfected. Spending the night in one of the old hotels could be an unparalleled adventure while continuing on to Segovia the next day.
Just make sure to take a good look at the picturesque city from afar…a place of beauty…as Zuloaga once attested.
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Hours: Open all year from Wednesday to Sunday. Summer, 1100-1400 and 1700-2000. Winter, 1600-1800. The visit consists of the Patio “Entre Muros”, “Patio de Armas” and “Museo en Torre Norte” with works by Ignacio Zuloaga and Decorative Arts. The Museum in the Tower is available for visitation on the first Friday on each month, by reservation and presents the private rooms and studio of Zuloaga and other masters as well as objects of great value.
Admission: Adults, 6€, Children under 10, free
Getting There: By car (recommended), it takes approximately one and a half hours. By bus, take an hourly bus from Madrid Moncloa to Segovia. The bus only runs from Segovia to Pedraza on certain days, so check the schedule. Total travel time, 2 hours and 38 minutes. By train, from Madrid-Chamartin station, take the train to Segovia Guiomar. Transfer to the number 11 bus to Plaza Artilleria (20 minutes). Walk approximately 8 minutes to bus stop to Pedraza for the twenty-eight minute ride. Total travel time, 3 hours and 18 minutes
As you walk into the sprawling market building, every one of your senses will come alive.
The smells will entice you to have a bite here, seated next to one of the many locals who dine here. A true treat for your tongue!
The sights are plenty and colorful! With so much to buy, you won’t know where to start. Feel the fabrics. Try on a hat or scarf. Squeeze a lemon. Peruse the pachamama dolls and other mementos.
The sounds…the sound of frying chicken, locals laughing and exchanging pleasantries, thousands of items being transported in and out. Sometimes it can be a bit overwhelming!
The whole experience is wonderful and one that all tourists should make the short trip for, however, there are some things to remember; make sure the juices are made with bottled water and if you buy any fruits and vegetables, make sure to wash them before eating. Its wonderful to support the local people by making purchases, but always haggle for the best price. Many vendors see dollar signs when the see Gringos approaching. Be prepared to walk away and try another vendor, even in the next stall. Most importantly, keep an eye on your belongings as it can get crowded, especially in the mornings.
The most important thing to remember, however, is to enjoy yourself and take it all in!
For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.
San Pedro Market
Address: Calles Tupac Amaru and Cascaparo, about an eight minute walk from Plaza de Armas
Hours: 0900-1800, daily
Admission: free
Getting There: From Plaza de Armas, head south along Calle Manta, past Plazoleta Espinar. As you pass Plaza San Francisco, head under the archway, and walk approximately two minutes. San Pedro Market will be on your left.
Not wanting to make the uphill journey to San Cristobal, the final church on our Religious Ticket, a compromise was made to visit Iglesia de la Compañía de Jesús, located in the Plaza de Armas instead…especially when we found out that admission was free on that day.
Of course, I had come to expect the No Photos rule by this time, and I was getting a little tired of seeing so many churches. (Yes, I actually said this!)
But…free is free.
This massive church, commissioned by the Jesuits in 1571 and constructed in 1576, offers one of the best examples of Spanish Baroque architecture in Peru. Competing effectively with the Cathedral on the northeast side of the plaza, the church has two bell towers and is connected to the Jesuit’s University of San Ignacia de Loyola.
Though construction was begun in 1576, on the grounds of the palace of the Inca Huayna Capac, the church was badly damaged in the earthquake of 1650. The present day building was finally completed, 18 years later, in 1668.
Some of the most notable pieces and features of the church include a painting of the Transfiguration of Christ at the high altar by Jesuit Diego de la Puente and a painting depicting the wedding of artín García de Loyola, the nephew of Ignatius Loyola with Beatriz (great-niece of the Inca ruler Tupac Amaru). In the Sacristy are sculptures by Melchor Huaman Mayta of the saints San Jeronimo and San Francisco.
What I enjoyed the most, however, were the two towers. Though the ascent was slow, allowing for the descent of other visitors on the narrow stairway, it was worth the steep climb, for the views looking out over the Plaza and the adjacent Cathedral. You can also access the balcony from the left tower which allows visibility of the church’s interior.
If you have a few minutes, duck in for a quick look at this historical church…the access to the towers is absolutely worth your time!
For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.
At some point during your visit to Cusco, you are bound to make the steep climb up the ancient Incan Road, Hathunrumiyoc (Quechua for great stone street”) and believe me, it is steep!
Passing the Archbishop’s Museum and the 12 angled stone set into the ancient perimeter wall, you will be huffing and puffing when you make it to the Plazoleta San Blas.
Or maybe that was just me…still unaccustomed to Cusco’s high elevation.
So why make the trip?
The area is quite unique and filled with boutiques, restaurants and of course…a church. A small church. An ancient church.
The Templo San Blas.
Built in 1544, the primitive chapel was constructed on the site of an old Inca temple dedicated to Illapa, the god of thunder and lightning. Set in the oldest parish of Cusco, the church, built by Viceroy Francisco Toledo, was originally built with mud bricks, but was reconstructed with stone walls after the earthquake of 1950.
An earlier earthquake also played a pivotal role in the church’s history. About a hundred years after its erection, an earthquake shook the city and the old neighborhood of T’oqokachi. Once the church had been rebuilt and restored, it became an important temple and began to be decorated with extravagant and important artwork.
The collection of paintings exhibited in the church include one displaying the Life and Miracles of San Blas by artist Fabian Perez de Medina and a canvas of the resurrection of Lazarus, by Master Diego Quispe Tito. It’s greatest attraction, however, is the beautifully intricate pulpit carved of Cusquenian cedar, known worldwide. One legend has it that it was made by a local man who who miraculously healed from leprosy, another suggests that it was created by famous Quechua woodcarvers, and still, it is also thought to have been created by either Diego Quispe Tito or Juan Tomas Tuyru Tupac.
As we entered the simple looking church, our tickets were validated and we entered, not expecting to see much. What a surprise was in store for us!
As was becoming the norm, no photographs were allowed and someone was actively walking throughout the church watching our actions. If only I could have captured the beauty that was laid forth before us in greater detail. Trying to slyly snap a couple of photographs of the amazing altar and the pulpit, I was reprimanded by the guard…though I was successful. A bit embarrassed, we decided to head up to the bell tower where we were able to take photographs of the plaza beneath us and of the tower and bell. The views from here were spectacular in the beautiful afternoon.
Once we descended from the bell tower, the church had gained more visitors, but we were still unable to capture more photos.
While the church is included in the Religious Ticket, it is worth the price of single admission because of its rich history, amazing interior and views! Take the time…make the climb! Up the hill and to the belltower!
For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe, and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.
Templo San Blas
Address: Plazoleta San Blas, Cusco, Peru
Hours: Monday to Saturday, 0800-1800, Sunday, 1000-1800
Admission: Adult, S /. 15.00 (about $4.45 US). Student: S /. 7.50 (about $2.20 US). Admission with the Religious Ticket (also incorporating two other churches and museum), S /. 30.00 (about $10.50 US).
