The Preacher’s Church

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

If you are a church lover (like me!) and visiting Zurich, there are four churches that are must-sees!

The Grossmunster, the Fraumunster, the Church of St. Peter and the Predigerkirche.

Cloudy, drizzly day aren’t optimal for day trips outside of the city so I decided, instead, to head toward the train station and into the old town area of Zurich to seek out the two churches I had never visited on previous trips.

The Predigerkirche, the Preacher’s Church, was first built in 1231 AD as a Romanesque church, the largest in the city and converted in the first half of the 14th century when the choir was rebuilt and the high bell tower was added. Originally part of a monastery of the Dominican Order, the church appears to have been modeled after the Basilica of San Domenico in Bologna which was the most important church of the Dominicans and where their founder, Saint Dominic was buried in 1221. The church is now used as the “open town church” or a place of encounter with its side aisles containing a library, easy chairs and a dining area for free Sunday lunches. It also employs a Catholic priest and celebrates joint masses with Muslims and Buddhists and is often the site of evening concerts.

With my excitement growing as I turned off of Limmatquai street and made my way up the hill, I could see the beautiful bell tower of the church which is regarded as the highest Gothic edifice in Zurich. As I arrived at the church on Zahringerplatz, however, I was a bit disappointed with the church’s plain facade. Though the high window-lined walls of the side and rear of the church were a bit more interesting, I simply could not believe that this was was the entrance, especially with its magnificent bell tower!

Entering the church, I was also a bit underwhelmed. Appearing to be elegant and modern at first glance, I began to walk around the space, hoping for more detail. The high arched ceiling caught my attention and lent to the lofty atmosphere along with the wide, square columns which divided the space. Although the ceiling was decorated with light gold rosettes and molding, it was quite disappointing combined with the plain altar. Beautiful in its own right…I guess I am used to the extravagantly decorated churches of Italy!

As I turned to the rear of the church, the magnificent organ in the gallery caught my eye. Now, this piece definitely gives the church a bit of extravagance. I had noticed that there were other smaller organs scattered throughout the church but this pipe organ, built by Paul Hintermann and Jakob Schmidt, is the showstopper. It was installed in 1970, after the original (1503) was broken during the Reformation struggle and the replacement (1879), was deemed unworthy.

Another piece that caught my eye along the outer perimeter of the church was the grave plate of Heinricus de Ruchentstein, a ministerial member of the House of Rappersil and dates back to 1270. The grave plate is the oldest surviving piece of this kind and the oldest surviving grave plate in Switzerland. It is notable due to its arrangement of the inscription, the absence of the date and a cross.

Exiting the church, I made my way out into the streets of the Neumarkt quarter. Though I was a bit disappointed with my time at the Predigerkirche, it was still an interesting visit and I was glad that I had made my way into this part of the city. Certainly, I couldn’t skip out on seeing the final two of the main churches of the city.

Now, it was off to find St. Peter’s!

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Predigerkirche Zurich

For The Price Of A Train Ticket

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Where would you go for the price of a train ticket?

Rome has set the bar very high for me as far as Italian cities go. I never tire of walking through the city and finding that around every corner there is something bigger and better. I don’t ever feel as though I need to venture outside of the city.

Milan, however, was never a place that I could find footing with. In fact, I would complain (to anyone who would listen) about how much I hated going there. I always felt like I had to work extra-hard to find the things that make it Milan…and it was never just around the corner.

Over the years, I have done research and found those outstanding and sometimes hidden gems that make Milan special…there were more than I ever imagined and more of which I hope to come. Lately, however, I have stumbled upon an interesting fact. The trains in Milan are relatively inexpensive.

For the price of a train ticket, I could venture outside of Milan and discover so much more. That inexpensive ticket opens up lots of possibilities with so many charming Italian cities nearby that you can explore.

Having visited the city of Pavia, about a 45 minute journey from Milan, I had heard about Certosa di Pavia, one of the largest monasteries in Italy. In fact, I had seen it in the distance from my window on the train when I visited Pavia. Filling the skyline in the countryside, it appeared imposing and mysterious…I had to buy a train ticket to check it out!

Getting to the monastery was quite easy. The subway near my hotel, brought me to Garibaldi station and from there I was able to take a train straight to the Certosa di Pavia station. One there, it was about a 12-15 minute walk, following the path around the high monastery walls to the entrance.

Having discovered that a tour was offered at the opening times in Italian only, I was a bit disappointed that there were no others in English. Someone, however, gave me a bit of advice…take the tour in Italian. Even if you don’t understand any of it, you will get to see parts of the monastery that are not open to those not taking part in the tour.

Time to muster all of my Italian…and I promise, there’s not enough in my repertoire to understand a guide on a tour.

There were many visitors congregating at the entrance and right on schedule, someone was there to open the gates and allow everyone in.

Now, I have been to the Duomo in Milan many times and to this day, I am still awe-struck by its beauty and intricacies. This place definitely gives the Duomo a run for its money! Towering above the grass courtyard, it simply takes your breath away! Every nook and cranny of the structure’s facade is filled with reliefs, statues and inlaid carvings and you want to stand there and take in every minute detail.  

Heading inside, however, I was on a mission to make sure that I did not miss the tour. Mouth gaping at the larger than life-size statues dominating the dimly lit space, I obliged when beckoned by the monk behind the gates at the rear of the church.

Starting at the left side structure, our tour commenced with a request…no photographs. It was interesting however, to realize that the monks who reside in the monastery now are of the order of the Cistercians, those who have taken a vow of silence. How is it that this Cistercian monk was giving us a tour? It was later, that I learned that some of the monks have been released from their vow for the sole purpose of giving guided tours.

Moving throughout the spaces behind the gates, the monk guided us though each of the areas within the church probably informing our tour group of the important details about the church’s inception.

(My Italian lacking severely, I was busy sneaking photos, not even trying to comprehend what was being communicated!)

The monastery, built in 1396-1495, is one of the largest in Italy. Founded by the monastic order of Carthusians, the Certosa is vastly different in style than what the Carthusians were normally known for…simplicity of architecture.

Originally, the church was built to serve as a mausoleum for the Visconti family and was built in the Gothic style with a Latin cross plan, consisting of a nave, two aisles and transept. Indeed inspired by the Duomo of Milan, its crossed vaults on Gothic arches are alternately decorated with geometrical shapes and starry skies.

A fresco, Incoronation of Mary between Francesco and Ludovico Sforza can be seen in the main apse as well as other frescoes with saints and prophets. The Certosa also exhibits other painted masterpieces by Bergognone including the panels of St. Ambrose and San Siro and the Crucifixion. Some important paintings originally in the church have either disappeared or been disassembled and distributed among museums, including the National Gallery of London. Inside the Chapel of St. Michael, frescoes by Carlo Francesco Nuvolone can be inspected and there is an important collection of stained glass windows by 15th century masters, including Zanetto Bugatto, Vincenzo Foppa, Bergognone and Hans Witz. Many notable sculptural works can be found here including the carved wooden choir stalls, the marble altar frontals, a bronze candelabra by Annibale Fontana and a 16th century high altar.

The Chapel of St. Michael
The Chapel of St. Michael
The Chapel of St. Michael

The tomb of Gian Galeazzo Visconti can be found in the southern transept as well as the tomb of Ludovico Sforza, the 7th Duke of Milan and his wife Beatrice d’Este in the northern transept.

The tomb of Ludovico Sforza, the 7th Duke of Milan and his wife Beatrice d’Este
Reproduction of the tomb of Ludovico Sforza, the 7th Duke of Milan and his wife Beatrice d’Este in the Museum of Certosa di Pavia
The tomb of Gian Galeazzo Visconti

Following the monk, we were awestruck by the portal with sculptures by the Mantegazza brothers, leading to the Small Cloister with a small garden in the center and the terracotta decorations on the small pilasters. The Grande Cloister was similarly decorated with the cells of the monks opening to a central garden. It was quite interesting (and moving) to walk through one of the monk’s cells to see just how simply they lived.

The Small Cloister
The Small Cloister
Fountain in the Small Cloister
Fountain in the Small Cloister
The Grande Cloister
The Grande Cloister
The Grande Cloister
The Grande Cloister
The Grande Cloister
The monk’s garden
A monk’s cell

After our tour was complete, I once again walked through the parts of the church that had caught my attention and finally made my way to the Museum. With free admission, the museum is worth taking the time to walk through and displays many of the Certosa’s impressive pieces and informs about the history the area. What I loved the most, however, is the plaster casts of friezes from the church’s facade. Here you can see, up close, what you can’t see with the naked eye due their locations high in the facade.

Finally, I headed into the Monastic Shop where the products made by the monks who reside at the monastery are sold. There is a large selection of herbal teas, alcoholic beverages, soaps, honey, religious icons and rosaries for purchase and you might spy one of those monks catching a nap in the corner, like I did!

Before heading out, I spent some time walking around the grounds in front of the church before heading out to make my way back to the train station.

Happy that I learned about the inexpensive price of Italy’s trains, I inserted my few euros into the ticket machine and purchased my return ticket, headed back to Milan, dinner and some much needed rest.

Most impressed by the Certosa di Pavia, this will most certainly be the first of many adventures outside of Milan!

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Certosa di Pavia

I ❤️ Oil

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Olive oil.

Say it, moving your mouth, but not emitting a sound.

It looks like your are saying, “I Love Oil”.

Well, if it is oil, as in olive oil…I do love it!

I will admit, I never knew a lot about what makes one olive oil better than another. Last year, standing in the olive oil section of a grocery store in Athens, I was stumped. I needed some to bring home, but I had no ideas as to which one was better than the next. Finally, a kindly older gentleman took pity on me and helped me pick out a couple of bottles. Situation solved on that trip.

But, yes, I definitely needed an olive oil education!

So, when my friend texted me and asked if I would be interested in joining her on an olive oil tour while we were both in Rome, of course, I said YES!

Heading out into to cold, wet May afternoon, it didn’t quite seem as though we were nearing the Italian summer months. Still, we had a plan and the wet stuff was not going to hamper our good time!

From the Tiburtina station, we caught a train to Fara Sabina where we would meet our tour guide, Johnny Madge, a Brit who has lived in the area since the early 80’s. A former marble sculptor, he has evolved into a world class olive oil judge after buying a farmhouse in the middle of an olive grove and learning everything he could about the small oval fruit.

Johnny, a good natured gentleman, first took us for a coffee (to help perk us up a bit) and then we headed out onto the small, dirt roads of the Italian countryside. Since the skies were growing darker by the minute, we decided to first head to the tree that bears the title of the Oldest Olive Tree in Europe…there are signs along the way to prove it, though the Olive Tree of Vouves in Crete would probably disagree!

This tree sits in the yard of one of the locals…not in an olive grove as you might expect. It was conveyed that owner will sometimes come out and say hello (anticipating a few coins for his trouble), but on this day, I am guessing that the weather kept him inside.

We ventured through his yard, passing his pet peacocks and his prized pizza oven (doesn’t every Italian have one in their yard?) and to through the small stone wall which protects the area around the gigantic tree, which is said to be about 2,000 years old and still productive. This tree’s girth is so large that it takes about five people to hug it and is hollow in the inside. The massive branches are so heavy and tall that the owner has taken some steps to give it some stability.

Continuing on our journey, we stopped at a nearby olive grove and inspected a mere baby…only 500 years old. Also, hollow, it provided for some fun souvenir photos!

Johnny was a wealth of information and continually pulled over to the side of the road to show us different herbs and flowers that are native to the region. It was amazing to realize how much someone can glean from the land…something us city folks don’t often think about!

Because it was a Sunday, we were unable to visit the places where the olives are sorted and made into olive oil, a little disappointing, but expected. As we pulled into the parking lot of one particular place of business, Johnny explained the pruning and picking process to us and how the olives are pressed into olive oil. He further went on to explain how the determination is made as to whether an olive oil is categorized as extra virgin or not…something I never knew!

Driving onward on the winding roads, we looked up on the ridge of the mountainside at the beautiful town of Toffia, with is church standing proudly at the highest point and a grotto devoted to the Blessed Virgin down below in the valley.

Driving to the entrance gate, we were able to snap a few photos as the rain came down upon us.

Next stop was the small town of Farfa. Bordered by olive groves on either side, this picturesque village with unique boutiques, quaint restaurants and pretty houses is also home to one of the most famous abbeys in Europe, belonging to the Benedictine Order. Entering the abbey, I wasn’t aware of its status at the time, but I knew it was something special…unlike anything I had seen anywhere before. The cathedral was divided into three naves and every surface covered in beautiful friezes, with a stunning lunette representing the Virgin and the Child in the middle. Several chapels line the exterior walls and the interior wall of the facade showcases a large canvas of Last Judgment (1571) by Flemish painter Henrik van der Broek.

Such an important, historic place, several kings (including Charlemagne), emperors and Popes (including most recently Pope John Paul II, 19th May 1993) have visited the Abbey throughout the centuries.

Guided tours are offered on in Italian every day except on Mondays and would be a great way to see all parts of the church, including the crypt entrance and the archaeological museum if you have the time as well as the surrounding grounds.

Wandering around the village we stepped into many of the artisan’s shops inspecting their beautifully hand-made wares…of course, Mother’s Day was coming up and some tea towels to wrap around olive oil bottles was a must!

Finally, with the sun getting lower in the afternoon sky, we headed to the town of Montopoli. It was here at a local pizza restaurant, where we finally sat with Johnny to have an olive oil tasting. Explaining to us how to slurp the oil to the back of our throats, it was there that we were looking for a burn, thus giving us the knowledge that it was indeed, extra virgin. Sampling three different olive oils with our delicious meal was the something new to me…I never thought that I could drink olive oil straight, something very good for us Johnny explained and I never realized how differently olive oil could taste.

With full bellies, we packed up our belongings into Johnny’s van and headed back to the Fara Sabina train station for our ride into the still wet Rome but with a greater knowledge of Italy’s olive oil!

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Johnny Madge

Benedictine Abbey of Farfa

  • http://www.abbaziadifarfa.com/
  • Address: Via del Monastero, 1, 02032 Castelnuovo di Farfa RI, Italy
  • Hours: 1000-1900. Guided tours are performed hourly every day except on Monday from 1000 to 1300 and from 1530 to 1830 (Sat. and Sun. 1500-1900 during Summer)
  • Admission: free

The Castle On A Cold Day

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

An impressive structure in the center of Milan, the Sforza Castle, built in the 15th century, is a must see while visiting the Italian city.

I have walked through the grounds many times but never gave a thought to the museum housed inside.

During the winter, it’s sometimes a struggle to find things to do when the weather is not optimum, so on a cold day, I finally decided to head over to check out everything the castle had to offer.

The castle, built by Francesco Sforza, the Duke of Milan on the remnants of a 14th century fortification, was built as a defensive castle. Throughout its history, it was destroyed, rebuilt and modified and was once one of the largest citadels in Europe. Today, the castle houses the Museums of the Castello and offers glimpses of masterpieces by Michelangelo, Leonardo da Vinci and Bramante.

Allowing myself just two and a half hours to see what the castle had in store for me, I exited the Cairoli metro station and enjoyed the architectural monument laid out before me. Stopping for a moment to enjoy the modest fountain, which frames the castle’s facade, I then made my way through the Torre del Filarete and into the castle’s courtyard. Making my way around the castle walls, I inspected each of the circular keep-towers and some of the statues and architectural ruins scattered throughout.

Often the site of artisan and farmer’s markets and entertainment, this day was no exception with artist Thiago Gusi giving us music to sight see by.

Finally, entering the museum, I paid my admission and began my exploration. I have to say, the amount of art and sculpture displayed here was mind-blowing and I quickly realized that I really should have allowed more time.

I won’t try to describe each and every piece in the museum, but as I moved through each of the rooms, there was a plethora of outstanding sculptural works, tapestries, frescoed ceilings, tiled floors, suits of armor, stained glass and painted canvases. Stunned by the quality and quantity, I glanced at my watch and moved as expeditiously as I could.

Thinking that my tour was almost complete, I discovered that, yes, there was more!

Moving through the museum, I found a whole other section highlighting furniture and then another, with religious icons. Each and every piece was more spectacular than the last.

As I glanced through the window at the waning daylight, I realized that my two and a half hours had passed much too quickly.

Having walked through and near the castle so many times, why had I never ventured into the castle’s museums before?

With such an affordable admission price, it won’t be the last!

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Sforza Castle

  • https://www.milanocastello.it/
  • Address: Piazza Castello, 20121 Milano MI, Italy
  • Hours: Castle, 0700-1930. Castle Museum, 0900-1730. Closed on Mondays, December 25, January 1 and May 1.
  • Admission: May 16, 2019-January 12, 2020, full ticket 10€ , reduced 8€ , reduced first Sunday of the month 5€ . Ticket includes the entrance to all  the Castle Museums and Leonardo exhibitions. Free entry: every first and third Tuesday of the month from 1400. Guided tour every Saturday at 1500, 8€
  • Getting There: Metro, Cairoli (red line) , Cadorna (red and green line) and Lanza (green line) stations.

The Climb To the Castle

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How high can you get in Barcelona?

Very high!

There are some amazing places in Barcelona to get beautiful views of the city.

The Montjuic Castle, the sight of an old military fortress, was a place I had been vowing to visit on one of my trips to Barcelona, yet, I just hadn’t been there with a day clear enough to take advantage of its orientation high above the city and the fantastic views it offered.

Starting my journey, I ventured out to the Plaza d’Espana metro station so that I could walk up the steps to the Museum of National Art of Catalonia and get a bit of exercise. The views here are also incredible as is the architecture and the Magic Fountain which can be seen in all its glory during operating hours (see schedule below).

Passing the gardens along Passeig de Santa Madrona, I made my way to the Avinguda de L’Estadi and the Telefèric de Montjuïc . Always looking for a fun way to travel, I assumed that the
telefèric would be an amazing way to get up to the castle…and to be honest, I was quite tired!

Thrilled to find no line, I was able to secure my own cable car, allowing for optimum photographic opportunities. However, with the car being so light and the wind so strong, the swinging of the car from side to side was a bit daunting as we made the final stretch of the journey to the castle.

Stepping out of the telefèric station, I was happy to find the castle’s location right alongside, providing some instant photographic gratification.

Heading to the front of the castle, I found it to be much larger than I had anticipated and I admired the four bastions at each corner of the curtain wall. Crossing the bridge to the castle, which traversed the Santa Eulàlia Moat, I discovered it to be no longer filled with water, but with beautiful flowers and grassy areas.

Purchasing my ticket, I ventured onto the castle’s sea wall. There are many pieces of artillery and sculpture and entryways to the castle’s dungeon, but the most stunning is the 360º views of the port, the Mediterranean, the coastline and the area of Baix Llobregat.

Making my way around the castle I admired the architecture and the landscaping, eyeing the fruit trees at the rear of the property which made me realize how hungry I was, thinking maybe I would have to check out the cafe.

Entering the interior courtyard of the castle, the parade grounds, I ventured through the passageways, enjoying the displays at the rear of the castle highlighting the Mountain of Barcelona and how its position in the city has affected historical events, the Prison and Memory of Barcelona which tells about the castle’s history as a military prison and an exhibit which details The Search of Freedom.

Finally making my way to the terrace, the highest point of the castle, I took in the amazing views of Barcelona, Montjuïc Hill and the castle itself. On the roof, above the entrance, standing tall, is the square watchtower that signaled the arrival of ships through a system of sails during the day and bonfires at night. On the tower’s eastern and western facades, there are two sundials, dating back to 1777, which once was responsible for giving the time in the morning (eastern facing) and for the afternoon (western facing). A plaque on the base of the tower describes the tower as the location where the French astronomer Pierre Méchain obtained the geographical coordinates of Barcelona in 1792 and 1793 and established the trig point that would serve to measure the meridian from Dunkirk. The length of this meridian, linking Barcelona, Paris and Dunkirk, was used as the basis of the metric system.

From a sign posted near the tower, I learned that tours of the watchtower are conducted three to four times a day in both English and Catalan. Since I had missed the tour times, I had to content myself with enjoying the views from the outside. Making a mental note of the tour times, I decided that it would be important to plan the next visit according to the times posted, as I discovered that the guide also takes you down to the dungeons where extensive graffiti has been uncovered, made by those were imprisoned there during different stages of the building’s history.

As I headed back to towards the parade grounds, I located the cafe and eyed the sweet offerings in its showcase. Since it was later in the day, I decided to save my appetite for dinner and enjoy a cold beer in the courtyard instead. It was an amazing end to my day, soaking up both the architectural history and the warm afternoon sun.

As the afternoon came to a close, I wandered back the way I had come, to the telefèric station. Once again, I was able to secure a cable car for myself, only this time, the city was aglow in the light of the setting sun.

After exploring such a beautiful historical setting, I couldn’t image more of a magical ending to a fantastic day. So amazing to be soaring high above the amazing city of Barcelona!

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Monjuic Castle

  • http://ajuntament.barcelona.cat/castelldemontjuic/en
  • Address: Ctra. de Montjuïc, 66, 08038 Barcelona, Spain
  • Hours: March 1 until November 1, 1000-2000, daily. November 2 until February 28, 1000-1800, daily. Closed December 25 and January 1.
  • Admission: Standard admission, 5€, Reduced admission, 3€. Free admission on the first Sunday of the month and Sundays after 1500. Guided tours lasting 1 hour are offered at 1100 and 1500 each day and let visitors discover places within the castle not normally open to the public. Tours, 4€
  • Getting There: By foot. The walk uphill to Montjuïc Castle from the top of the funicular (lower station, Paral.lel, metro lines 2 and 3), adjacent to the cable car station, takes about 20 to 25 minutes. By public transportation. Bus, line 150, origin Avinguda de la reina Maria Cristina, terminus Montjuïc Castle. Bus 150 goes round Montjuïc Hill before finally reaching the Castle. The ride from Plaça d’Espanya takes about 20 minutes. The descent from the Castle to the beginning of the line also takes 20 minutes. Bus 150 also connects with the
    Telefèric de Montjuïc at the bus stop Avinguda de Miramar-Estació del Funicular. The cable car service begins in Avinguda Miramar and leaves visitors in front of the Castle. It has three stops, the first in Avinguda Miramar, one in the middle in the Plaça de la Sardana, and one in front of the Castle. The price of the cable car does not include admission to the Castle. By car. If you arrive by private vehicle, there is a large public car park near the castle on Carrer dels Tarongers.


Telefèric de Montjuïc

  • https://www.telefericdemontjuic.cat/es
  • Address: Avinguda Miramar, 30, 08038 Barcelona, Spain
  • Hours: November-February 1000-1800, daily. March-May, 1000-1900, daily. June-September, 1000-2100, daily. October, 1000-1900, daily.
  • Admission: Adults, 8,40€, one-way, 12,70€ roundtrip. Children, ages 4-12, 6,60€, one-way, 9,20€ roundtrip. Children under age 4, free.

Magic Fountain

  • https://www.barcelona.cat/en/what-to-do-in-bcn/magic-fountain/magic-fountains-show-times
  • Hours: November 1 until January 6, Thursday, Friday and Saturday, 2000-2100, music and color, 2000 and 2030. January 7 until February 28, closed for maintenance. March 1 until March 31, Thursday, Friday and Saturday, 2000-2100, music and color, 2000 and 2030. April 1 until May 31, Thursday, Friday and Saturday, 2100-2200, music and color, 2100 and 2130. June 1 until September 30, Wednesday to Sunday, 2130-2230, music and color, 2130 and 2200. October 1 until October 31, Thursday, Friday and Saturday, 2100-2200, music and color, 2100 and 2130.
  • Admission: free

Inescapable

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Clint Eastwood made it out.

But…that was just a movie.

In reality, during the twenty-nine years of operation, Alcatraz Federal Penitentiary held fast to its claim that it was inescapable. Thirty-six prisoners made fourteen escape attempts (two men tried twice). Of these escapees, twenty-three were caught alive, six were shot and killed during their attempt, two drowned and five were listed as missing and presumed drowned.

From 1934 until 1963, the isolated Alcatraz Island maintained a lighthouse, a military fortification, a military prison and a federal prison. Some of the most infamous criminals were housed here, including Al Capone, Robert Franklin Stroud (the “Birdman of Alcatraz”), George “Machine Gun” Kelly, Bumpy Johnson, Rafael Cancel Miranda, Mickey Cohen, Arthur R. “Doc” Barker and Alvin “Creepy” Karpis.

Today, Alcatraz Island is only home to thousands of nesting birds, the well-preserved prison and other buildings and can be visited via tours from the mainland.

It had been many years since I had visited the famous attraction and I was excited to return since I didn’t remember much about my former visit. Since tickets to visit Alcatraz usually sell out each day, once I arrived in San Francisco, my first order of business was to book the tour. Selecting an afternoon departure from Pier 33, I anticipated spending a couple of hours making our way through the site.

On the day of our tour, we were ushered on to the Alcatraz Cruises boat with hundreds of other guests and prepared for the fifteen minute cruise to the island. The boat’s flag fluttered in the wind and we watched the mainland grow smaller as Alcatraz grew larger.

Soon we were making our way across the gangway to the open space at the ranger’s station. A park ranger gave us an introduction to the history of the island and then we were free to meander. A short movie gave us a brief history of the prison and the island and as we walked around, we admired the buildings, many in decline, that made up the premises.

Heading into the Main Prison area, where we would collect our Cellhouse Audio Tour guide, we noted that this was the area where prisoners were readied to be introduced to their confinement. It was here that prisoners were given their uniforms and required to take a shower in one of the long, open-air shower stalls.

This was the start of life in Alcatraz.

Listening to the start of my audio tour, I walked into the main prison area. Here, rows and rows of small cubicles in Cell Blocks B and C, each with a toilet, sink and cot, were displayed before me, once the home to a large prison population. These small cells were only 5 feet by 9 feet wide and each housed one prisoner.

The audio tour, the highlight of an Alcatraz Prison visit, is narrated by the some of the ex-prisoners and the correctional officers and describes the life they lived here at Alcatraz. Knowing that some of these narrators are no longer with us lent to the eerie feeling of this extinct facility.

It was interesting to hear the stories of the attempted prison breaks and even see the dummy that was made to fool the guards into thinking that the prisoner was still asleep in his bed. Cell Block D, was also fascinating, because it was here that the most dangerous criminals were kept. Though these cells were a little more spacious, prisoners were confined twenty-four hours a day and only allowed one visit to the recreation yard per week…alone.

Yet, it was “The Hole” that captured my attention. When prisoners were not cooperative, they were confined in “The Hole”, a dark room, with no interaction with the general population. As I stood inside this cramped, darkened space, even with the door open, it was understandable that many of the prisoners were mentally affected by their time here.

Our audio tour guided us through the kitchen and dining areas, where the inmates consumed their meals (reportedly the best in the system) and even into the recreation yard where they were allowed to exercise in the cool, bay air each day.

Continuing on, we were guided through the library, where many prisoners sought escape through books and even some attempted to better themselves through self-education. The visitation area was nearby and a place where prisoners could enjoy a visit from a loved one, once a month, with approval from the warden. No physical touching was allowed and inmates were forbidden to discuss current events or relate anything concerning prison life. Conversations were conducted via intercom and monitored by a correctional officer. Not adhering to the rules would result in a loss of the visiting privileges as well as other entitlements.

During Alcatraz’s operating years, there were many civilians that resided on the island, including women and children, families of the correctional officers and the Warden, employed at Alcatraz. You can walk through the rooms that served as work areas for these employees and see some of the primary living areas that housed them and their families. These families enjoyed their own bowling alley, soda fountain shop and convenience store, though most conducted their larger shopping trips on the mainland, employing the use of the prison boat which made twelve scheduled runs to the Van Ness Street Pier each day.

Due to rising costs and a deteriorating facility, however, the decision was made to shut down the prison in 1963. Prisoners were transferred to other facilities throughout the United States and all civilians were required to vacate the premises.

In 1969, eighty-nine American Indians decided to venture out to the island to make Alcatraz their home during a nineteen month occupation and protest. The group, Indians of All Tribes, wanted all retired, abandoned or out-of-use federal land returned to the Native People, who once occupied it, and felt that Alcatraz met this definition. Though the occupation ended with no resolution, you can still see traces of their time here.

Stepping out of the rear of the prison into the bright sunshine, made me realize how confining prison life could be, even for those who worked there. The beautiful views, however, would make anyone realize that life here on Alcatraz had to be better than life in any other penitentiary system in the United States.

Catching our boat back to the mainland, we pulled away from the dock, heading out into the bay. Looking back at Alcatraz in the distance, I reflected on the stories of the attempted escapes. Though it was a beautiful, sunny day, it was quite cool on the water. Anyone thinking they could make their way in these chilly waters must have been quite desperate, yet thought that it could be done. Of the attempted escapes, there were five missing and presumed drowned.

Presumed drowned. Yes, possible.

But, perhaps they are still out there, enjoying freedom yet keeping their stories of their time in the historic Alcatraz close to the vest.

No one knows for sure.

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Alcatraz Island

  • https://www.nps.gov/alca/index.htm
  • https://www.alcatrazcruises.com/
  • Address: San Francisco, CA 94133
  • Hours: Varies according to tour selected
  • Admission: Early Bird Tour and Day Tour, $39.90 , Adult and Junior (12-17 years) $39.90, Child (ages 5-11), $24.40, Senior (62 years+), $37.65, Night Tour, Adults and Junior (12-17 years), $47.30, Child (ages 5-11), $28.00, Senior (62 years+), $44.00, Behind the Scenes Tour, Ages 13 and up only, Adult, $92.30, Junior (12-17 years) $88.25, Senior (62 years+), $86.00, Alcatraz and Angel Island Tour, Adult and Junior (12-17 years) $78.65,
    Child (ages 5-11), $52.40, Senior (62 years+), $76.40

Biking the Bridge

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

What do you think of when you think of San Francisco?

I think of the Golden Gate Bridge.

The iconic suspension bridge that spans the mile-wide strait that connects San Francisco Bay and the Pacific Ocean, also connects the city of San Francisco to Marin County on the northern tip of the San Francisco Peninsula. It has been described as one of the most beautiful bridges in the world and is certainly one of the most photographed.

A photograph is what I wanted most, but then I heard that you could walk across the bridge and I knew that that was something I was going to do.

After a quick lunch at Pier 39, we had decided that we were going to walk to the Golden Gate Bridge. Looking down the coast, however, we realized that it was really far.

So…how were we going to get there?

Uber? Bus? Trolley?

Stepping out onto the boardwalk, we found our answer.

Bicycle.

Blazing Saddles Bike Rental was offering bikes for rent and advertising, “Bike the Bridge”. Yes, this was the way to go!

Paying our rental fees, we hopped on one of the bikes that the staff pulled out for us and headed down the boardwalk that parallels The Embarcadero.

An easy ride during the warm afternoon, we stopped every so often to photograph and enjoy some of the landmarks that dot the coastline…the Ferry Arch, Fisherman’s Wharf, the Maritime Museum, the pier at Aquatic Park Cove, Ghiradelli Square. Continuing on, we made our way past Fort Mason, the Marina District Lighthouse, Palace of the Fine Arts and Crissy Field, where we now had unobstructed views of the the stately bridge.

Wishing we had thought to bring some water with us, we were able to get some just before heading onto the bridge at the Golden Gate Bridge Welcome Center. Resting for a few minutes, we noticed how many people were engaged by their tour guides before heading on to the bridge.

We peddled on to the bridge, artfully dodging tourists attempting to walk four and five abreast, not realizing they were sharing the walkway with two-wheeled vehicles. Happy that we had bike bells, we rang them occasionally, passing the hundreds of people making their way across the 1.7 mile span.

It was so exciting to look up at this engineering marvel while we rode along, stopping occasionally for the requisite selfie.

Finally, making it to the H. Dana Bower Rest Area, we were able to get our land legs back and enjoy the stunning views of the bridge. Our plan had been to continue on from here along the pathway to Sausalito, enjoy a drink and take the ferry back to San Francisco, however, taking a look at the time, we were concerned about the ferry schedule and if we had sufficient time to make it back to return our bikes. Instead, we decided to head back across the bridge, the way we came.

Not realizing that the bike traffic was now directed to the other side of the bridge, we rode along leisurely until we were almost back to the other side. Here (oops!), a cop stopped us and informed us that we had to hop off of our bikes and walk them for the rest of the way on the bridge.

Slowing our progress, we finally reached the mainland and hopped back on. Continuing on our way, we realized that we were making good time so we slowed our pace, enjoying the views, even stopping to walk around the Palace of Fine Arts…a lovely setting on a beautiful day!

Taking one last look at the Golden Gate Bridge, we realized just how far we had traveled and what we had accomplished.

Yes, that is definitely what I envision when I think of San Francisco!

Next time, however, we simply need to leave earlier so we can check out Sausalito!

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The Golden Gate Bridge

  • http://www.goldengatebridge.org/\
  • Address: Golden Gate Bridge, San Francisco, CA
  • Pedestrian Hours: Pedestrians, including persons with disabilities using mobility devises such as wheelchairs, are allowed access ONLY on the East Sidewalk (side facing San Francisco). The hours vary seasonally as follows…Pacific Standard Time,East Sidewalk hours are 5 am to 6:30 pm. Automatically-controlled gates close at 6:30 pm and reopen at 5 am. Daylight Savings Time,East Sidewalk hours are 5 am to 9 pm. Automatically-controlled gates close at 9 pm and reopen at 5 am.
  • Bicycle Hours: Sidewalk hours during Pacific Standard Time (first Sunday in November to second Sunday in March. Weekdays, 5:00 am to 3:30 pm: EAST sidewalk. 3:30 pm to 6:30 pm: WEST sidewalk 6:30 pm to 5:00 am: EAST sidewalk, via remotely-controlled security gates located at both ends of the EAST sidewalk.
    Cyclists press the “buzzer” located near the closed security gate. After security staff locates the cyclist on a security camera, the gate is opened remotely. Cyclists repeat this procedure to get through the security gate at the other end of the sidewalk. Weekends and Holidays, 5:00 am to 6:30 pm: WEST sidewalk 6:30 pm to 5:00 am: EAST sidewalk, via remotely-controlled security gates located at both ends of the EAST sidewalk. Cyclists press the “buzzer” located near the closed security gate. After security staff locates the cyclist on a security camera, the gate is opened remotely. Cyclists repeat this procedure to get through the security gate at the other end of the sidewalk. Sidewalk hours during Daylight Saving Time (second Sunday in March to first Sunday in November. Weekdays, 5:00 am to 3:30 pm: EAST sidewalk. 3:30 pm to 9:00 pm: WEST sidewalk 09:00 pm to 5:00 am: EAST sidewalk, via remotely-controlled security gates located at both ends of the EAST sidewalk. Weekends and Holidays, 5:00 am to 9:00 pm: WEST sidewalk 9:00 pm to 5:00 am: EAST sidewalk, via remotely-controlled security gates located at both ends of the EAST sidewalk.
  • Admission: free
  • Bicycle Access on EAST and WEST Sidewalks. Cyclists have toll-free access to the Bridge’s sidewalks 24-hours a day. Cyclists MUST yield to pedestrians and use caution in the areas of the towers as there is limited space to maneuver and sight distances are constrained. Electric bicycles may be ridden on the sidewalks; however they must be pedaled and may NOT be used under power while on the sidewalk.

Palace of Fine Arts

Seeing the Sea Lions

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Pier 39 was opened in 1978 as an entertainment, dining and shopping venue and has attracted thousands of visitors since its inception.

It has also attracted something else.

Sea Lions.

While sea lions have always been present in San Francisco Bay, they have only become a tourist attraction since 1989. Having always been seen on Seal Rock, the majority of the population has decided to change their location and starting lounging on the docks of Pier 39, where it is speculated that they feel safer.

Though the sea lions only appear seasonally, due to their migration habits, the best time to see them is during the spring, usually between February until June or July when they leave to seek out their food sources.

When they can be found at Pier 39, they are a source of pure entertainment for visitors with their playful antics. I enjoyed sitting on the platforms installed to provide optimum viewing of the large creatures which can weigh up to half a ton. They are known for their intelligence, playfulness and noisy barking but despite the fact that thousands of people come to see them every day, they usually avoid humans.

After you enjoy your free show at Pier 39, take some time to walk around, enjoy a great meal, buy some souvenirs and check out some of the performers that put on frequent shows on the premises.

No matter what you end up doing at Pier 39, however, you will always hear the blubbery creatures barking in the distance, so don’t feel bad if you have to go check them out one more time!

I did!

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Pier 39

  • https://www.pier39.com/
  • Address: The Embarcadero, San Francisco, CA 94133
  • Hours: 1000-2200, daily
  • Admission: free
  • Getting There:

Hill’s Thrill

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

If you want to see all that San Francisco has to offer, there is one place to go.

Coit Tower.

The slender white concrete column, rising from the top of Telegraph Hill, can be seen from throughout the city. Completed in 1933, it has attracted the attention of residents and tourists alike for its simple beauty and the 360 degree views it offers.

Having seen Coit Tower from afar, many times, I had never taken the time to make it up Telegraph Hill to see exactly what it offered. With the clear, spring day, complete with bright blue skies, spread out above me, however, I decided that it was high time to make the climb.

The grounds around the tower, Pioneer Park, were well-manicured and offered ample area to take a break on one of the many benches and enjoy the shade, especially after the steep climb. It’s also a great place to watch and look for its noisiest residents, a wild flock of parrots.

Entering the tower, I was directed to the gift shop to purchase an elevator pass to reach the observation deck and then made my way to the queue for the elevator. The elevator is quite small, slow, holds only about 8 people and is manually operated, so be prepared to wait, especially during peak times.

Stepping off the elevator into the sunshine flooding the upper area and filtering through the decorative arches, we eagerly made our way to the windows where, as far as the eye could see, was the Bay City! Sweeping views of the hills, valleys and the city’s most famous landmarks captivated our attention…the Golden Gate and Bay bridges, Alcatraz, the Transamerica Pyramid, Fisherman’s Wharf, Pier 39, Nob Hill, Russian Hill, Twin Peaks, Aquatic Park, the Financial District, the Ferry Building, Angel Island, Treasure Island and Lombard Street, as well as the five surrounding counties.

Though I was enjoying the comprehensive views of the city, I still wasn’t aware of the history of this intriguing structure, however, a chat with the tour guide gave me a bit of insight.

Lillie Hitchcock Coit, a wealthy, eccentric resident of the city passed away in 1929 and left one-third of her fortune for the purpose of adding beauty to the city that she so dearly loved. Designed by the architecture firm of Arthur Brown, Jr. (the designers of San Francisco’s City Hall), the 210 foot tower was built on Pioneer Park the former sight of an optical semaphore telegraph (1850), which was erected to alert residents of the arrival of ships. The tower was dedicated to the city’s volunteer firefighters that Lillie Coit so greatly admired. Another monument, also paid for with Coit’s funds and dedicated to the firefighters was erected in Washington Square. This sculpture depicts three firemen, one carrying a woman in his arms.

The tower is well known and often-depicted in advertisements and scenes hyping San Francisco. If you are a film buff and have a keen eye, however, you may have noticed Coit Tower highlighted in many films and television series. Hitchcock, himself, featured the tower in his 1958 film Vertigo and more recently, it appeared in the 2015 disaster film, San Andreas, the Eddie Murphy film, Dr. Dolittle and the television show, Charmed.

Once you have taken a tour of the top of the tower, make sure to spend some time to inspect the murals at the base of the tower. These murals were created by twenty-five local artists who were commissioned to create works of art which depict aspects of life in California.

Having made such an impression upon the city due to the generosity of Lillie Coit, honor her and take a walk up to the top of Telegraph Hill. After you see all that’s before you, I promise,

“You’ll be thrilledl!”

Coit Tower

  • https://sfrecpark.org/destination/telegraph-hill-pioneer-park/coit-tower/
  • Address: 1 Telegraph Hill Blvd, San Francisco, CA 94133
  • Hours: April to October 1000-1800, November to March, 1000-1700. Closed Thanksgiving Day, Christmas Day and New Year’s Day.
  • Admission: Elevator Entrance fee, San Francisco residents, Adults, $6, Seniors 62+, $4, Youth 12-17 years, $4, Children, 5-11 years, $2, Children under 2, free. Non-residents, Adults, $9, Seniors 62+, $6, Youth 12-17 years, $6, Children, 5-11 years, $2, Children under 2, free.

A Tale of Two Chinatowns

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Just how many Chinatowns are there in the world?

Having visited a large number of these districts on our globe, I have to say that when I searched for this information, I was surprised by how many exist.

Following the defeat by Britain in the first Opium War, in the mid-1840’s, a series of natural catastrophes, famine, uprisings and rebellions ensued in China. Thousands of Chinese left their homes in the search for opportunity in near and far away lands and many arrived on the west coast of the United States when news of the gold rush gave them hope for a better life.

Historically, the Chinatowns located in the United States have been located in larger cities such as New York City, Seattle, Boston, Philadelphia, Chicago and Los Angeles with one of the most famous in San Francisco. There are, however, many Chinatowns in other countries as well, including Argentina, Cuba, Mexico, Peru, Canada, Mauritius, South Africa, India, Indonesia, Iran, Iraq, Japan, Malaysia, Myanmar, Pakistan, Philippines, Singapore, South Korea, Thailand, Vietnam, Belgium, France, Italy, Netherlands, United Kingdom, Australia.

I have visited quite a few on the list and they are all quite different.

Recently, I had the pleasure of accompanying my son to San Francisco on his Spring Break trip. It had been many years since my last visit to the Golden Gate City, but the first thing I wanted to show him was Chinatown. As we approached the Dragon Gate on Grant Avenue, I was quite excited to see what changes the enclave had gone through over the years.

The Dragon Gate was given to the city by the Republic of China and is inscribed with a message from the President of the Republic of China. Though I have seen bigger and more elaborate gates, I love this one for its simplicity and park-like feel. As we walked through the gate onto into the streets filled with antiques, souvenir shops, bakeries, restaurants and artwork, the familiarity returned and I remembered my first trip to San Francisco, before I began to travel the world, when I felt as though I had really entered another country.

Making our way up Grant Street, criss-crossed above with red Chinese paper lanterns, I marveled at the architecture, street art and signage. There are many notable buildings within Chinatown, including the Sing Chong Building (the most photographed piece of architecture in the area), the Bank of Canton (the Old Telephone Exchange), the Tien Hau Temple (the oldest Taoist Temple, founded in 1852), Old St. Mary’s Church (oldest cathedral in California and built by Chinese laborers) and many other culturally inspired structures, including ones on the notorious Waverly Place, an alleyway that has been used in many films and holds the first U.S. Post Office established in San Francisco.

Sing Chong Building
Bank of Canton
Tien Hau Temple
Old St. Mary’s Church
Waverly Place

The street art is some of the finest I have seen in the world and it’s advisable to duck into small streets and alleyways…you never know what you may find!

One thing that I regret missing out on, however, was a visit to the Golden Gate Fortune Cookie Factory. Having always been fascinated by the sweet cookies that are consumed after a Chinese meal, I thought it would be an interesting place to see how the cookies are made and to bring home a few to my family. Hard to find in a small alley, we passed it by, finally realizing when it was too late and time was slipping by quickly. Nevertheless, I will save this for another trip!

As the dinner hour approached, we later returned to Chinatown for an authentic meal, mesmerized by the swaying lanterns now lit for the darkened skies above the now quiet streets.

Visiting San Francisco’s Chinatown was such an enlightening experience, that when I visited Milan a couple of weeks later, I decided that I should check out the Italian version.

The day was just as brilliant as when I visited San Francisco and I looked forward to seeing how the two city’s Chinatowns compared.

Turning onto the pedestrian friendly, Via Paolo Sarpi, my interest was piqued and I glanced around hoping to spot a Chinese gate or inspiring Chinese architecture. Instead, what I found was what looked like a typical Italian street halfheartedly attempting to disguise itself as a Chinatown. Sure, there were the occasional signs which lend to the Asian perception and the intermittent paper lantern fluttering in the wind, but the over feeling is well…Italian…disappointing. Don’t get me wrong, I love Italian architecture, I was was just hoping for something much different. Try as I might, I just didn’t get the same warm and fuzzy feeling that I got when I visited San Francisco’s Chinatown.

The Chinese that reside here date back to the 1920’s and came from the Zhejiang region near Shanghai to work in the silk industry. Their descendants remained here, set up shop and offer a wide range of services and products, including 150 boutiques selling Oriental products, traditional tea shops and the large Kathay, the biggest store for ethnic food in Italy. It was here that I finally felt as though I was experiencing the true cultural phenomenon. As I browsed the shelves of authentic products, I found something that I had loved when visiting Hong Kong…sesame peanut brittle. Purchasing a small box, I secured a place on a bench surrounded by a floral shop and ate it slowly watching the activity on the street.

Finally, I walked around some of the side streets, hoping to find what I thought the neighborhood was lacking. Still confused, I thought, maybe if I had dinner here at one of the many restaurants, I could be swayed in my disappointing assessment.

Glancing around at the choices…I decided…

“Nah, I’d rather go have a pizza”.

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Chinatown San Francisco

  • http://www.sanfranciscochinatown.com/
  • Getting There: From Fisherman’s Wharf area, take the cable car to Chinatown. There are two locations for cable cars near Fisherman’s Wharf. The Powell-Hyde line (PH) and the Powell-Mason line (PM). The PH line is located near Ghiradelli Square at Beach and Hyde Street. The PM line is located at Bay and Taylor Street. Both lines intersect each other. Best place to get off is Washington & Mason (near Cable Car Museum) or Powell & California. Walk down a few blocks and you will be in Chinatown. From BART, take BART to Downtown San Francisco (exit Powell Street Station), then go above ground and transfer to 30 Stockton, 45 Union-Stockton, or cable car to Chinatown. B

Chinatown Milan