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Amsterdam layovers with more than twenty-four hours, usually involve trains to other parts of the country.
This time it involved a movie theater.
Learning of the Pathé Tuschinski, I was intrigued by the pictures of its grand art deco and gothic exterior with its two towers flanking the entrance. Making my way through the city, I soon found myself at the Rembrantplein and following the tram tracks down Reguliersbreestraat, I was standing before a most magnificent piece of architecture.
Having heard about the theater’s self-guided audio tour, I paid for my ticket, donned my headphones and went back in time to 1921.
In the early 1900s, Polish jeweler, Abraham Icek Tuschinski, on his way to America was sidelined in Rotterdam. After successfully opening four theaters there, he was determined to build his crowning masterpiece in Amsterdam.
The Tuschinski theater, based on designs by architect H.L. Dejong, opened its doors on October 28, 1921. Although the interior was designed by Pieter den Besten and Jaap Gidding, Tuschinski was involved in all aspects of the theater’s design and construction and was inspired to bring a place of luxury and comfort to his patrons. The theater, a mix of many styles including Amsterdam School, Art Nouveau and Art Deco was built to a staggering sum of four million guilders.
Beginning with the lobby, I marveled at the domed ceiling with its eddy of ever-changing color as I was informed by my audio guide to search through the reds and golds of the lobby’s rich wall-coverings to find the paradise birds and peacocks, relish the richness of the Moroccan handwoven carpet and to venerate the lavish bar of bronze and marble.
The audio guide led me up the stairs and to the various parts of the theater, including the VIP room, the secret, almost-hidden Moroccan room and the main theater, the Grote Zaal.
The theater had an original seating capacity of 2,000, an orchestra, balcony and upper circle levels. With not just a film screen but a stage for live performances, an elegant Wurlitzer organ had a place of honor on the left side of the stage. As I stood on the balcony, amazed at the richness of the beautiful theater, I listened in wonder at the organist practicing his music.
The beautiful details throughout the building…the light fixtures, the stained glass, the woodwork…all lend to the opinion of it being considered one of the most beautiful cinemas in the world. However, not just a place of beauty, the theater in its time was considered to be revolutionary with its unique heating and ventilation system which kept an even temperature throughout the building and the state of the art Wurlitzer organ with 850 pipes that could make just about any sound, including voice.
Over time, the theater underwent many changes including one to its name when it was retitled “Tivoli” during the Second World War and began screening German made Nazi anti-semitic films. Sadly during this time, Abraham Tuschinski and most of his family were deported to Auschwitz, never to return. The theater name was changed back to Tuschinski in 1945 and used for many concerts starring big names of the day such as Judy Garland, Marlene Dietrich, Dizzy Gillespie and Fats Domino. More changes came in more recent years when the theater was renovated to its original style between 1998 and 2002 and expanded to add more auditoriums. Today, the theater goes by the name Pathé Tuschinski and the Grote Zaal has a capacity of only 784, however, five additional screens can accommodate 105 to 191 more patrons each.
As I walked through this incredible, historic theater, I was moved at how much attention to detail and thought could be put into a place of business and I imagined that I would see movies more often if I could come to a place so extraordinary.
As I returned my audio guide and collected my complimentary cup of tea, I checked the time schedule and discovered that “The Greatest Showman” was playing later in the day.
Yes! I would return and make my visit complete.
Arriving just before showtime, I purchased my ticket at the booth in front of the building, opting to be seated in the balcony, which included free popcorn and a drink of choice (soda, wine and beer included). Before the presentation began, I was giddy with excitement, especially when I found that this particular movie was a musical. Usually not a fan of this type of genre, I could hardly envision any other type of movie to be the first that I would enjoy in this majestic theater.
And I was right. I was mesmerized as I sat in the balcony viewing the large screen and enjoying the wondrous story line, feeling almost as if I was at a Broadway production, not a movie! At the end of the feature, I was saddened that my time at the theater was over.
Since my visit, I have been to Amsterdam an additional time and the first thing I have done is to check the movie listings at Pathé Tuschinski. Though nothing on the schedule interested me, I do know that I have discovered something to do there in the future, unlike anywhere else!
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Pathé Tuschinski
- https://www.pathe.nl/bioscoop/tuschinski
- Address: Reguliersbreestraat 26-34, 1017 CN Amsterdam, Netherlands
- Hours: Varies according to movies shown
- Admission: Varies according to seat location
- Self-guided Audio Tour: Daily between 0930 and 1130, 10€ per person, including tea or coffee. Offered in Dutch and English.
Cisterns: These extremely large cisterns were used for the transport of water during the times of the Spanish Colony and also used as bomb shelters during World War II.
Flags: Check out the flags blowing in the breeze, the United States flag, the Puerto Rican flag and the Cross of Burgundy flag. The latter is a white flag with a red X and was t he Spanish military flag used from the 16th to 18th centuries to identify warships, forts and regiments of troops loyal to the king of Spain.
With so much to enjoy here, take your time to see all parts of San Cristobal. In addition to the photo opportunities it provides within its walls, its city and coastal views are incredible! I could see both the Carnival Sunshine and Royal Caribbean’s ships docked as well as other beautiful buildings throughout the city. Make sure to stand along the water side and take in the panoramic views of the coast from Old San Juan to Condado and beyond…truly spectacular!
After leaving San Cristóbal, it is approximately a one mile picturesque walk to Castillo San Felipe del Morro along Calle Norzagaray. Since I wanted to stroll through the center of town, doing some shopping along the way, I used Calle Fortaleza then, Calle Clara Lair to the Old City Gate. Walking along the outer walls on the Paseo de Morro, I walked along the water, looking out to El Canuelo, another smaller fortification on Goat Island, and made my way through the grounds of Castillo San Felipe del Morro to the front entrance.
My favorite part, however, is the restored lighthouse. Sitting 180 feet above sea level, the lighthouse was completed in 1908. On the upper levels you can also see the same three flags flown on San Cristóbal…the U.S. flag, the Puerto Rican flag and the Cross of Burgundy flag.
Looking out at the massive grounds, the property spreads out along 70 acres, including the killing grounds and the esplanade. Nearby, you can see the nearby Cemetery of Santa Maria Magdalena de Pazzi.
A most breathtaking structure, its architecture is considered to be amongst the finest in the country. Construction began on the chapel, formerly known as the Collegiate Chapel of St. Matthew, in 1456, by William Sinclair, the First Earl of Caithness for worship by the Sinclair family. After the Scottish Reformation in 1560, Roman Catholic worship in the chapel ended. It was then closed to public worship until 1861, and then opened again according to the rites of the Scottish Episcopal Church.
Circling the church, we admired and photographed the carvings on all of the chapel’s outer walls. Though some are harder to distinguish than others, it was easy to pick out a fox running off with a goose (with the farmer’s wife close behind) on the north wall and faces carved into the window arches along with animals such as a stag and a ram. The west wall shows how the chapel was originally intended to be a much bigger building with doorways, which would have led to a nave (now blocked) and other features not normally found on exterior walls (as this was not planned to be one).
Eight Nordic dragons ring the base of an ornate pillar and more than 110 carvings of pagan deities known as Green Men can be found throughout the chapel. These human faces are surrounded by greenery, often growing out of their mouths. One arch depicts figures waltzing with their future skeletons and a double humped camel and bunches of maize can be spotted, both not found in Scotland. Stories from both the New Testament and the Old Testament are illustrated as well as 213 cubes protruding from pillars and arches with patterns on them. It is speculated that these patterns may have meaning, some thinking it is a musical score. Though there is much conjecture about the carvings and their meanings, not much is known as several fires at the nearby Rosslyn Castle consumed much of the St. Clair family’s archives and documentation on the chapel.
Originally planned in a cruciform shape, the chapel stands on fourteen pillars. The three pillars at the east end of the chapel, the Journeyman Pillar, the Master Pillar and the Apprentice Pillar all date from the Georgian period. The most interesting of the three, the Apprentice Pillar has a most intriguing legend attached to it. The master mason had decided the pillar to be too difficult to carve and had departed to Italy to study with other masons. His apprentice, however, decided to carve the pillar in his absence. When the master mason returned and saw the outstanding work, he killed the apprentice with his mallet. The wounded head of the apprentice was then carved into one capital of the pillar and his weeping mother was carved into another.
Descending into the sacristy, we were aware that it is also known as the crypt, though not the actual burial vault that lies underneath the chapel where several generations of Sinclairs rest. The actual crypt was once accessible from a descending stair at the rear of the building, however, it was sealed shut many years ago. Legends have resulted from the knowledge of this sealed crypt, many believing that it was a front for a more extensive subterranean vault which may have contained the reputed Templar treasure. In 1837, when the 2nd Earl of Rosslyn passed away, his wish was to be buried in the original vault. Though searches were conducted for many days, no entrance was found and he was buried beside his wife in the Lady Chapel.
The chapel, still owned by descendants of its founder, Sir William St. Clair is now guided by a trust that oversees the site. It is this trust that forbids the photography within the building. Several books are for sale within the gift shop offering a look at the unique interior published by the trust. Though photography is banned, other tourists were also spotted sneaking photos throughout their visit. After inquiring about the organ, we were allowed to photograph the area as this was not part of the original building.
Though the bridge, which has accommodated only pedestrians and cyclists since 2003, is high enough for the many low-profiled sightseeing boats to pass without opening, the bridge is opened throughout the day for other river traffic. In 1994, the bridge’s opening was automated, however, prior to that time, a bridge keeper was responsible for opening the bridge several times a day by hand.
‘After a few rain showers blew through and the skies decided to remain cloudy, I persuaded my family that we should drive into town to see the fort…the fact that there is a souvenir market next door and the promise of some cool t-shirts cemented the deal.
A basic square structure with stone curtain walls and diamond-shaped stone bastions at the corners, the Tyygborg tower and north curtain were eventually demolished as well as other parts of the fort. The current Gothic Revival structure, with its Victorian clock tower, which serves as an entrance, was eventually built to replace the north curtain in the 18th century. Today, the bastions and the rooftop can be accessed as well as the living quarters that were later added.
We enjoyed visiting the lower level which houses former cells, displays detailing the fort’s history, chapel and the living quarters. These areas are filled with antiques and gives an idea of the living standards at the time. We did not have a tour guide as we arrived just before three o’clock (last admitting time) however, having an escort would have been a benefit in learning more about the history of the structure and the role it played in protecting the island’s harbor.
To reach the lighthouse, we drove along Ocean Trail, following the signs along the way. There was ample parking near the lighthouse and we were greeted by a volunteer who immediately showed us the best places to capture an amazing photograph of the unusually unpainted lighthouse.
The lighthouse, which had fallen into disrepair, when automation deemed lighthouse keepers unnecessary, has undergone a huge preservation by the Outer Banks Conservationists since 1980. Visitor have been allowed to enter and climb the structure since 1991.
Taking our place in line to await our turn to climb to the top of this towering structure, some members of our group used the time wisely to walk around the grounds and investigate what the gift shop had to offer. In order to keep congestion in the lighthouse to a minimum, only a small number of visitors are allowed inside at one time. So, as visitors leave, others are allowed in.
Finally, our turn had arrived and we began the long, hot, climb to the top…220 twenty steps, stopping only to catch our breath and read the museum-quality displays on each level detailing the lighthouse’s history.
After one last exhausting push, we exited to the top platform into the cool breeze, admiring the expansive views of the Atlantic, the barrier island and the sound. Worth the climb? You bet!
Though access to the lens room is not permitted since the lens (the original) is still a functioning one, it was thrilling to look out over one of the top vacation spots in on the East Coast.
Historical sources point to a nineteen-inch sculpture of the Holy Child with a bird in his right hand as the original Infant Child of Prague. Located in the Spanish monastery of Santa Maria de la Valbonna in Asturias, it was carved in 1340. Other sculptures were carved by famous masters during the Middle Ages and were dressed in the aristocratic fashion of the time period. It is believed, however, that the current statue was a gift from Lady Polyxena to the Carmelites who said upon presenting the figurine, “I am giving you what I most esteem of my possessions. Keep the sculpture in reference and you will be well off”. Since that time, many claims of blessing favors and miraculous healings have been attributed to those who petition the Infant Jesus.
Though my companion was a little disturbed by the fact that such devotion is given to what he only considers a doll, I was fascinated by the history of this icon. When in Prague’s Malá Strana district, take a moment of your time, and visit the Infant Jesus of Prague. Or better yet, try to be there during the coronation celebration held every year on the first Sunday in May. The Infant Jesus is displayed in the presbytery on Saturday and Sunday. On Saturday, after evening mass, a procession is held with a copy of the statue. The main pilgrimage mass with the coronation of the statue is celebrated at ten o’clock on Sunday.
After the Prague Castle’s origins, the deteriorating castle of Vyšehrad was abandoned as a royal home. After renovations by Charles IV, new fortifications with two gates and a royal palace were added to the complex. Later, however, after the Hussite Wars, the castle was abandoned and fell into ruin. Renovations during the 17th century established it as a Baroque fortress, a training center for the Austrian Army and later incorporated the fort into the Baroque city walls around Prague.
Today, Vysehrad is a place of recreation as well as history. Czech citizens visit the grounds, which have now become a public park, for amusement, relaxation and celebration. Tourists visit to see the many architectural treasures on the site.
Marveling over the Rotunda of St. Martin, it was astonishing that this rare, Romanesque building still stands strong today. Built in the 11th century, it is one of Prague’s oldest surviving buildings. Used for gunpowder storage during the Thirty Years’ War, it is now used for religious purposes. When admiring this ancient edifice, be sure to seek out the cannonball from the Prussian rampage in 1758, which is embedded in the facade to the right of the window.
Behind the church is the Vyšehrad cemetery, the final resting place of many famous Czechs, including author Karel Capek, composers Antonín Dvorák and Bedřich Smetana and artist Alphonse Mucha as well as many other scribes and politicians.
In order to explore all of Vyšehrad, you’ll need a few hours and it helps to have a beautiful day! Bring a picnic or indulge at one of the cafés, and don’t forget to spend some time looking out over the river and the city views…sunset can be quite impressive! But, no matter what time of day you visit…just do!
I love walking through Reykjavik. Everywhere you look, there is something interesting to see…from the harbor and the fishing boats…to the sculpture scattered throughout the town center…to the brightly painted tin buildings…to the interesting graffiti.
