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Between the towns of Pisac and Ollantaytambo, parallel to the river Vilcanota, lies the Sacred Valley.
Composed of many rivers flowing down gullies and valleys, the land is rich and fertile and was highly prized by the Inca people. Today, it is highly prized for the tourism it attracts, due to the large number of archaeological monuments, and is home to many indigenous people.
After a filling breakfast and one last glance through our packs to make sure we had everything for an extended day, we sat, patiently waiting to be picked up for our tour. After fifteen minutes past the time we had been told and much speculation that we had been forgotten, a small lady walked into the lobby of our hotel asking for someone with the first name of my husband but with a different last name. We walked over, thinking we didn’t understand her accent and identified ourselves, showing her our receipt.
“Let’s go.”
“But wait, the tour was in my name, not my husband’s and that’s not his last name,” I insisted as I glanced down at her paperwork attached to her clipboard.
“Yes, this is you. Let’s go.”
Go where? We were certain this lady had the wrong couple and who knew where we were heading.
Following her a short distance to a parking area next to the city bus stop, we found a large bus parked there and once again, insisted that we may be the wrong couple. As we were ushered onto the bus, they seemed pretty confident that they had indeed, not made a mistake.
A quick glance at everyone already on board, did not instill any confidence…they all appeared to be Peruvian and suddenly, I was thinking that we were on a city bus. As the bus pulled away from the stop, we laughed, thinking of how absurd this all seemed and where we might actually wind up.
Well, we, of so little faith, were completely wrong. We were on the correct bus as was confirmed by our guide who began to describe our day.
Our first stop would be Chinchero, where we would purchase our partial ticket for the sites we would visit. From there, we would continue on to Maras, Moray and then Urubamba for lunch. In Ollantaytambo, we would visit the ancient fortress where we would tackle more than 200 steps to reach the summit. From here, we would continue on to our final stops, Pisac, its citadel and finally, its market.
Almost an hour later, after watching the lush green landscape speed by, locals going about their everyday business, adobe homes and hundreds of political advertisements marring fences and buildings and soliciting votes for the next election, we pulled up to a small hill in the town of Chinchero.
Bracing myself for the lack of oxygen required for the climb, we followed our guide and the rest of the Pachamama Group (Mother Earth), as we were now known. Tickets purchased and validated, we were led up another hill past a small market offering colorful blankets, hats and trinkets to a plaza in front of a beautiful adobe church.
Though we were only able to inspect the church’s exterior, we learned that it was constructed in 1607 by the Spanish on the site of an Incan palace, believed to be that of Inca Tupac Tupanqui. The interior was described to be quite lovely with ornate painted ceilings and Catholic and traditional motifs.
Moving on to the open area past the church, we gazed out onto the beautiful, green, mountainous landscape and the fertile terraces and aqueducts, many still in use today. Produce grown on the land includes potatoes, olluco, oca, quinoa and fava beans and are sold at the local market. The ruins of the summer palace of Tupac Tupanqui can still be seen spilling down the hillside with splendid stonework and a stone throne with intricate carvings.
The day was beautiful and we were able to capture some stunning photographs, the first of many of the day.
After boarding our bus, we headed a short distance down the road into the center of Chinchero. Home to the Interpretation Center of Andean Textiles, the traditionally dressed women of the village offer weaving demonstrations to visitors, describing the age-old methods of making colors for the wool, and how the wool is washed, dyed and spun.
The young woman giving our demonstration was informative and funny and we enjoyed learning about how the many products we had seen so far on our travels were made. As she talked, it was hard not to glance around at the beautiful colors and interior of the structure we were in. Most intriguing was a small house with balconies situated behind the woman. Guinea pigs ran in and out of the doorways and peered out at the crowd, paws resting on the balcony railings. Though its no secret that guinea pig is considered a delicacy in Peru, one I had planned to try at some point, it was both quite amusing and yet, disturbing to see them in their last resting place.
After a vibrantly woven hat caught my eye, I made a deal with one of the young men working on the premises and then exited to the bus for our next stop, Moray.
Located about 27 kilometers from Chinchero, Moray, is believed to have been used as an agricultural laboratory by the Incas. Though not much more is known, there is speculation that the amphitheater-looking, circular, terraced depressions were used to test and experiment with crops. With temperature differences at each level of the terraces of 15 degrees Celsius, it is believed that each level was used to grow different crops and to test hybridization. Possibly, the many variations of potato grown in Peru originated at Moray.
As we stood looking out on the depressions and listening to our tour guide, it was awesome to think how advanced this civilization was. Traversing the paths around the terraces, we learned that parts of the terraces were completely original and some had been restored. Standing in front of one of the oldest depressions, we posed for pictures with the stunning Andes mountains behind us.
As our bus drove around the site and waited for us to make our way up the rocky, dusty path, we learned that our next stop would be Maras, another terraced area, but this one with a different purpose.
Salt.
Driving the winding, narrow road through the mountains, we occasionally pulled to the side to allow other buses and vans to pass. Looking out of the right window, a sea of white spread out in the valley below us, a striking sight amidst the brown, coarse scrub. Maras Salt ponds.
Though salt ponds are usually found on coastal plains, the mountain range we were traversing was once part of the ocean floor. As movement of the tectonic plates pushed the seabed up to form the Andes, the sea salt was locked into the rocks and subsequently pushed to the surface through the many springs that flow through the rocks. The ponds were created long before the Incas, however, who were known for most of the construction in this amazing valley.
Roughly 5,000 ponds, each about four meters in size and 30 centimeters deep, are staggered down the valley. Spring water is fed into the ponds and when full, left to evaporate. When the water has crusted over, the salt is scraped from the top, placed in a basket and allowed to drain.
The mineral-rich (magnesium, iron, calcium and zinc) salt is said to have healing properties and claim to help reduce stress and prevent conditions such as anemia and osteoporosis, in addition to being handy in the kitchen.
The one thing we found extremely interesting was that each of the salt ponds belong to a local family with the size relative to the size of the family. Some are not in use and all are always handed down to the next generation, never outsiders.
Continuing our journey in the mid-day, it was time to head to Urubamba and our lunch. Our group was divided into three and we were all dropped off at different restaurants, though I am not sure what differentiated us into these groups, guessing that it may have been the price we paid for each of our tours. My husband and I and two other couples were deposited at Inka’s House, a large buffet-style restaurant. The food was good at our lunch spot, though others claimed their restaurant was not very good.
Ollantaytambo, our next destination, is located at the northern end of the Sacred Valley. Often known by tourists as a common starting point for the Inca trail, it is also a boarding point for trains to Aguas Calientes and Machu Picchu.
We had been warned about the many steps we had to climb at the Ollantaytambo Fortress and now it was time to pay the piper. Since I was having trouble breathing after a couple of flights of stairs, how in the world was I going to make it to the top?
In the 15th century, Inca Pachacutec began construction of terraces for farming and an irrigation system. These terrace make up the Ollantaytambo Fortress which was once used for religious purposes and was then the site of a major battle in which resulted in Spanish defeat. The fortress was then later captured by Francisco Pizarro and his men.
As I began the arduous task of making my way to the top, I decided to revel in the climb and enjoy the view every time I had to stop for a breath. Slowly, I climbed, joining forces with another woman, who also insisted she couldn’t make it to the top. With much encouragement for each other, I finally caught up to my husband to the entrance to the temple complex, a short distance from the top.
The Temple of the Sun, an incomplete holy place holds the Wall of the Six Monoliths with its 50 ton stones and is the sight where all the tourists want to take their picture, showing the completion of their ascent. The temple was used as a calendar with its sun dials and other features.
As we moved away from the temple, we made our way to the Balcon Pata, a pathway leading to two large buildings. From here, we then made our way back down to the ceremonial area of the fortress. Looking across the valley, we could see the remains of old crop storehouses built by the Incas. Following the ridge-line, our guide pointed out the shape of a face….Wiracocha, a deity believed to be the creator of all. The area is accessible, however, very steep and much time is to be allowed for the full climb with beautiful views across the valley to the fortress.
Exiting the fortress area, we made our way through the Mercado Turistico. Taking a quick glance around, it was a colorful affair and we wished that time was included in our itinerary to browse the vendor’s stalls. Quickly grabbing two waters, we fought the crowds to keep up with our group and make our way back to our bus. Once on board, we discovered a few empty seats. No, we hadn’t lost anyone on the mountain, some of our group left us at this point to catch the train to Aguas Calientes, beginning their sojourn to Machu Picchu.
Making our way out of town, we headed up into the mountains. Our guide explained that since the gates to Pisac close at 4:00, we had to drive rather quickly in order to enter. Watching the clock closely as the day was coming to a close, we finally arrived with minutes to spare. Making our way to the parking area, we exited the bus an followed our guide up the terraced hillside to the citadel which sits at 9,751 feet, keeping watch over the village below.
The terraces here were similar to those found at Moray and thought to play the same role. The ruins higher up, include four separate areas, P’isaqa, Inti Watana, Qalla Q’asa and Kinchiraqay and offered stellar views of the valley. After an overview of the history by our guide, we were allowed to explore the Temple of the Sun, the remains of the buildings, including a residential settlement, several altars, water channels and ceremonial baths, as we glanced over the river at the open tombs carved into the rocky mountainside.
The wind was strong here and as the day was drawing to a close, we quickly walked through the site back to the parking lot and waiting bus, pausing to pose for a quick photo under the entrance sign.
Our last stop was in the town of Pisac, one that I had been very excited about. I had heard great things about their famous market and looked forward to purchasing some unique souvenirs. However, as we drove down the mountain, the sky was growing dark leading me to realize that the market would probably be closing upon our arrival. My prediction was accurate, but we were brought to a jewelry store for a lesson on assessing the quality of silver. Since it was communicated in Spanish, we attempted to understand, however, it was easier to browse the merchandise.
Finally, our day was drawing to a close. As we drove the winding roads back to Cusco, our heads nodded and our eyes closed. Yes, it was a long day, however, we had seen everything that we had set out to. The sites of Sacred Valley was amazingly different, yet the same, all having history dating back to the Incas. Machu Picchu is a given, but the Sacred Valley is not to be missed.
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Chinchero Ruins, Church and Interpretation Center
- Address: Interpretation Center, Calle Albergue 5, Chinchero, Peru
- Hours: 0800 to 1730, daily. Market open daily 0700-1730.
- Admission: The partial tourist ticket or ‘Boleto Turístico’ costs S/.70 (Approx. US$25.) Interpretation Center, 1000-1800.
- Getting There: Collectivos go through Chinchero to Urubamba and Ollantaytambo. Ask driver to drop you in town, a short walk to ruins and church.
Moray
- Hours: 0700 to 1800, daily
- Admission: The partial tourist ticket or ‘Boleto Turístico’ costs S/.70 (Approx. US$25.) Interpretation Center, 1000-1800.
Maras
- Hours: 0700 to 1800, daily
- Admission: The partial tourist ticket or ‘Boleto Turístico’ costs S/.70 (Approx. US$25.) Interpretation Center, 1000-1800.
Ollantaytambo
- Address: Ollantaytambo
- Hours: 0700 to 1800, daily
- Admission: The partial tourist ticket or ‘Boleto Turístico’ costs S/.70 (Approx. US$25.)
Pisac Archaeological Park
- Address: Pisac Archaeological Park, Pisac, Cusco.
- Hours: 0700 to 1730, daily
- Admission: The partial tourist ticket or ‘Boleto Turístico’ costs S/.70 (Approx. US$25.)
Pisac Market
- Hours: 0700-1700, daily. Sundays include additional vendors.
- Admission: free
After a walk through some of the small markets and a glimpse at the Presidential Palace, we jumped back into a cab and headed back toward Miraflores. Traffic of course, was at its usual, almost standstill. Heading down Avenue Arequipa, we made a quick decision to stop our driver near a street heading to Huaca Pucllana (read about my first visit on my post A Peruvian Pyramid), a great adobe and clay pyramid which served as an important ceremonial and administrative center between the years of 200 and 700 AD. Luckily, an English tour was about to commence and were able to follow along, learning about the historic structure.
Finally, we headed back toward Parque Kennedy in the center of Miraflores. Walking through the park, I pointed out the Church of the Miraculous Virgin (read about my first visit in my post The Colonial Church) and City Hall. Guiding my husband toward a store, La Quinta, with tables piled high with clothing, he inquired as to whether he was going to get some of the churros that I always talk about. Yes, but first a little shopping expedition (read more about it in my blog post Shop Til You Drop)!
So, we were up early the next morning and heading even further south into Peru. Though is was an arduous task getting to the airport, even with easy Saturday traffic, the check-in process with LC Peru was quite simple and before lunchtime, we had already checked into our hotel in Cusco.
Finally, with tickets in hand, we set out to accomplish the last of our tasks of the day, collecting our tickets for our Sacred Valley tour the next morning. This tour had been set up for us by a friend of a friend. As we found the office, met the agent and paid for the tour tickets, we were instructed on our pick up time in the morning and what our day would entail…lots of stops, beautiful ruins, interaction with the local people and lunch. Very excited about to hear what our upcoming day, we bid our travel agent goodbye and continued our explorations of the Plaza de Armas, culminating with a scrumptious, Peruvian dinner.
Looking for a “Trajan Market” sign (or the Italian equivalent) marking the entrance, I must have walked past the actual entrance three or four times before I realized that the Museum of the Imperial Fora was where I needed to be.
Walking to the far end of the building, I utilized the stairway and headed to the courtyard on the side of the market. Here, current exhibitions are on display and I was pleasantly surprised to discover The Spiral, an installation designed by artist Luminita Taranu, inspired by the Trajan’s Column. I loved the colorful hues and metals used in the creation of this masterpiece…and I loved the photo opportunities it presented!
Walking back through the interior part of the compound, I took more time to inspect the intricacies of the construction and the pieces that occupied its interior.
Walking along the Via del Quirinale, I noticed a church on my left. Noticing people entering, I decided to take a look inside.
The Chapel of the Passion, has three canvases with scenes from the Passion of Jesus Christ by Giacinto Brandi and the chapel to the left of the altar, The Chapel of Saint Stanislaus Kostka, houses the shrine of the saint, a bronze and lapis lazuli urn and a painting of the Madonna With Child and Saint Stanislaus Kostka. Make sure to check out the ceiling fresco by Govanni Odazzi.
Many other intricately carved statues grace the pediments above the chapels and the domed ceiling is centered with an oculus allowing the church to be lighted naturally. Bringing my attention to the floor, I was entranced by the amazing inlaid mosaics which mirrors the elliptical dome overhead. Bernini did not want large funerary monuments within the church to ruin the architectural lines, so the mosaics mark the grave of those such as Cardinal Giambattista Spinola.
Paying the sacristan on duty, I was then directed me up a stairway. Entering a small room, I discovered paintings and information about Saint Stanislaus Kostka. As I walked into the rooms that the saint spent his final years, what caught my eye…and actually, caught me a bit off guard…was a life-size marble statue depicting the dying saint, designed by Pierre Legros. Portrayed at the age of 18, the saint rests on a marble bed and holds in one hand, a small framed image of the Virgin Mary and a real rosary in the other. Surrounded by paintings from his life, the Baroque decor is even more engaging, painted deep red and trimmed in an abundance of gold.
Relics belonging to the saint are displayed in a case the left and two altars fill the wall spaces. The rooms were so mesmerizing and yet so intimate, not something you get to experience in the normal course of a church visit.
Finally, as my visit was drawing to a close, I took one more round in the church and then stepped outside to take a better look at the exterior. A simple beauty, marked by a semicircular porch with two Ionic columns invites visitors in to its exaggerated beauty on the inside.
Massive crowds fill the interior every day seeking to inspect this architectural phenomenon. Though classified as a temple, it is unknown how worship was conducted here as it is quite different from many other ancient Roman temples. Today, though, many take a seat near the altar, head bowed in prayer and contemplation…appropriate as its inception as a church when Byzantine emperor Phocas bequeathed it to Pope Boniface IV in AD 608.
Interspersed between the bays are the tombs of many famous figures from Italian history…painters Raphael and Annibale Carracci, composer, Arcangelo Corelli and architect Baldassare Peruzzi as well as the Italian kings, Vittorio Emanuele II and Umberto I. There are also many paintings that adorn the walls, the best known being the Annunication by Melozzo da Forli.
After my visit was complete, I stepped out into the piazza to take a better look at the fabulous temple from afar. The crowds were probably as thick here as they were inside, however, I was able to step up onto the raised platform that surrounded the amazing fountain that holds court in the center of the square.
If you are on your way to the Piazza Navona, or just in the area, step inside to see this incredible architectural gem and then have a seat around the beautiful fountain. Grab a gelato or a drink and relax for a while.
Entering the complex near the Arch of Titus, we discovered many paths throughout to survey the area in its entirety, encompassing the two basilicas, Fulvia Aemilia, a 100 meter public hall with a two-story porticoed facade dating back to 179 BC and Basilica Julia, built by Julius Caesar on the site of Basilica Sempronia in 54 BC. The Tempio di Antonino e Faustina, erected in AD 141 and transformed into a church in the 8th century (Chiesa di San Lorenzo in Miranda) and the Temple of Romulus are two of the most intact buildings on the premises. Near the Temple of Romulus, you will find the Basilica of Maxentius, the largest building on the forum, originally measuring 100 meters by 65 meters.
Also on the Via Sacra, we discovered the Casa delle Vestali, the home of the virgins who tended the sacred flame in the Tempio di Vesta. These priestesses, aged between six and ten years, were selected from aristocratic families to serve in the temple for thirty years. So great was the responsibility of keeping both the flame and their virginity intact that the penalty of flogging and/or death was imposed for those who did not adhere to the orders. The statues which honor these virgins line the Via Sacra and though most are in good condition, a many are missing their heads.
At the end of the Via Sacra, we came upon the Arco di Settimio Severo, a 23 meter high structure, built in AD 203 and dedicated to the emperor and his two sons, Caracalla and Geta. The arch commemorated the Roman victory over the Parthians.
The remains of the Rostri could be seen in front of the arch. This elaborate podium was the site of Mark Antony’s famous, “Friends, Romans and countrymen…” speech. Facing the Rostri is the Colonna di Foca (Column of Phocus) which fronts what once was the Forum’s main square.
Palatine Hill is connected to the Forum and at the center of the seven hills of Rome. Standing above the Forum, it was once the place where Imperial palaces were built. Heading uphill, we made our way through the grounds.
The Houses of Augustus and Livia, are still standing and in good condition and house some impressive art and frescoes. Tours of both of these impressive structures are available, however, advance tickets were required and we were not in possession. If you can secure them ahead of time, it is worth the effort in order to check out Augustus’ private study.
The Palatine Museum is also open to the public and contains a display of Roman statuary and findings from the hippodrome, however, being the end of our day, we decided that this would have to wait until another visit.
Having been to this architectural phenomenon at least five or six times, I never tire of seeing its structural prowess which has withstood the elements for so many years. I enjoy meandering through the passageways and gazing out on the arena which was the site of much action in its early years.
The Colosseum is the largest amphitheater in the world, measuring 186 meters long, 156 meters wide and 50 meters high!
There were three stories, each containing columns of a different style. The bottom columns were from the simple Doric order, the center, Ionic and the top, Corinthian. 
The emperor’s enjoyed the entertainment so much that they not only organized the events but also paid for them, allowing for the free entry of those desiring to attend. By also providing food, they ensured their popularity and support.
Emperor Vespasian’s son, Titus, was the first to hold games to commemorate the completion of the Colosseum. These games continued for 100 days. Gladiatorial games continued until the fifth century and animal hunts until the sixth.
Those with weak constitutions were not encouraged to attend as many events were quite brutal. During certain games held by the emperors, around 10,000 animals were killed in a single day.
A large number of rooms and underground passages were located beneath the Colosseum. Here, gladiators and animals waited to meet their fate. There were also thirty-six trap doors which could be used for special effects. 
Restoration efforts began in the 1990s and can still be seen continuing today. Funding from the admittance of thousands of visitors each year allow for the preservation of this mighty monument.
There is a ticket booth within the Colosseum, however, you can avoid waiting in line twice, once for the ticket purchase and once for entry. A new ticket office has been opened across from the Colosseum and alongside the entrance to the Roman Forum. After purchasing ticket, make sure to enter the line for entrance at the Colosseum. Tickets can also be purchased online and and by telephone.
As we were dropped off at the Plaza de la Independencia, where the country’s independence from Spain and Columbia was celebrated, I glanced around at the fine architectural details present on most of the buildings. The Casco Viejo (Spanish for Old Town) is filled with peaceful, shady plazas, wrought iron balconies, aged, brightly colored doorways and a myriad of churches.
After inspecting the dignified busts of Panama’s founding fathers, scattered throughout the square, we glanced around, not sure how to tackle the many narrow streets and plazas beckoning to my touristic nature. Heading toward the waterfront, we occasionally stopped to peruse the many souvenir shops filled with masks, pareos, outdated Panama license plates and of course, Panama hats.
The waterfront promenade offered some amazing views of the city’s impressive skyline as well as of the Cinta Costera, the viaduct that encircles the historic and governmental district of Casco Viejo, a controversial project which was built to solve the traffic nightmares without disturbing the historic neighborhood.
Grabbing a snow-cone from one of the local vendors, we sat on a park bench and savored the balmy temperatures while enjoying our chilly treat.
While my main desire was to visit La Catedral Metropolitana, the main, Catholic temple in Panama City, we found it to be under a massive renovation. The San Francisco de Asis Church was only a couple of blocks away and we decided to step in. One of the original structures from Casco Viejo, the church was nearly destroyed by fire in 1737 and 1756. Restored in 1998, it was more modern than I anticipated but presented vibrant stained glass, marble throughout and a beautiful, mosaic behind the altar.
Many restaurants and bars grace the streets in the Old Town and finding a tasty place to eat is not hard to do. In fact, nighttime, is a festive affair and should not be missed when visiting the city, even if not staying in one of the area’s many hotels and hostels.
Finally, we made our way back to Plaza de la Independencia. Taking a seat on one of the many shady, seating areas, we rested our weary feet, admiring the scenes around us. Besides the other camera touting tourists, the square attracts a large number of locals who come to interact with each other and children who use the tranquil area to play.
Despite my usual attention to detail, I found myself a bit unprepared for this trip, driving out of the airport rental car lot with only a vague map snagged from the rental car company.
Our hotel was easy to find on the harbor in Ponta Delgada, however, our room would not be ready until later that morning. Driving past, we headed east, following the rugged coastline, interspersed with black sand beaches and sapphire waters. Finding ourselves in Lagoa, we marveled at the colorful homes and businesses lining the narrow cobblestone streets and the white stone churches that seemed to be everywhere! It truly seemed that we were in Italy, not Portugal!
Driving through Saõ Roque I spied a beautiful church along the coast. Igreja de Saõ Roque is the main parochial church of the area and includes the Chapel of the Holies, an altar of immense value and decorated in hand-painted azulejo tile. It is also known as the burial place for the grandmother of the Marquês e Pombal.
Re-mastering my little stick-shift (which I had not driven in about 25 years), we cruised along the narrow lanes and sometimes highways, heading wherever…we had no plan in that moment.
Finally, heading back into Ponta Delgada, it was time for check-in and a much needed shower and nap.
Strolling along the main street, we dodged the occasional rain shower, peering into the shops and restaurants and hoping that the dark skies would not open up. Our destination, Fort de Saõ Bras de Ponta Delgada, was situated on the outskirts of the city and I was anxious to spend some time walking along the ramparts and admiring the harbor views.
Constructed in the 17th century, the Renaissance fort’s purpose was to defend the area against pirate raids as well as the Spaniards and the French. During both World Wars, the fort secured the safety of Allied shipping and today acts as a base for the Portuguese navy as well as housing a military museum.
Across the main road, we found the church of Saõ José. Looking like a typical Portuguese church from the outside, it offers a feast for the eyes on the interior. In the early 1500’s the Franciscan Friars built a convent in the location. Construction of the church was began in 1709 and showcases three naves and three chapels, including the Chapels of the Lord of the Thirds and Our Lady of Sorrows. Decorated with rich gilded woodwork, it also features important 18th century blue and white tiles and jacaranda appointments.
Another church, in the adjacent square is Igreja do Santo Cristo. Also exhibiting a beautifully gilded interior, this one threw me for a loop. As I positioned myself discreetly to photograph the altar, I noticed the door opening and a gentleman crawling on hand and knee into the church. Making his way to the rear of the building, he remained prostrate before a gated area. Many after him, came to the gated area and knelt for extended periods of time. Waiting patiently for a spot to open on one of the benches facing the bars, I finally made my way there and took a seat.
I was intrigued…what significance did this church have? After doing a bit of research later that evening, I learned that this chapel houses Senhor Santo Cristo dos Milagres, the wooden image of Christ which represents the Jesus of Nazareth as he was presented to the crowd wearing a crown of thorns on his head and with his bruised, beaten, whipped torso exposed. Created by an unknown artist, the statue is on display here in the church and is used to lead a procession through the city during the city for the festival honoring the Lord Holy Christ of the Miracles on the fifth Sunday after Easter and lasting until Thursday of the Ascension.
The interior was lavishly decorated with carved cedar and other exotic woods and the opulently carved altar and choir stalls guided me around the structure. As I made my way around the church, I was drawn to the age-old paintings from the 17th and 18th centuries, the elegant jacaranda furniture, the glazed tiles and the colorful images of the saints etched onto the windows. In the sacristy, an immensely valuable collection of gold-embroidered liturgical vestments can viewed.
Continuing on, we made our way through the cobblestone streets made of volcanic rock, admiring the beautiful patterns that led the way. So many things diverted our attention…musicians, shops displaying Azorian wares, people spread out in the promenades enjoying the lovely afternoon.
A good night’s rest was definitely needed…tomorrow was to be a day filled with more exploration of this unique and beautiful island.
After paying my admission, I donned my audio guide earphones and entered the the first stop on the tour, the Sermon church.
The chancel takes center stage and my eye was initially drawn to it as it sits high above the congregation and is surrounded by glass paintings representing the Nativity, the Crucifixion and the Resurrection. The altar, made of white marble and onyx presides before the gilded Apostles’ Screen designed by Friedrich Schinkel. The beautifully carved pulpit to the left of the chancel is also particularly noteworthy.
Turning to the left side of the church, the great Sauer organ was galvanizing with its massive size and artistry. Installed during the building’s construction, it is the largest preserved organ in its original state and is considered to be the largest in Germany with 7269 pipes and 113 registers.
Venturing outside of the Sermon church’s main area, I took notice of the crypts located under the organ gallery. Though there are many others within the cathedral, these are the burial sites of Kurfürster Friedrich Wilhelm, Elector of Brandenburg, his wife Kurfürstin Dorothea, German Emperor, Friedrich III and Kurfürster Johann Cicero, Elector of Brandenburg.
Opposite the organ gallery, I ventured into the Baptismal and Matrimonial Church. The entrance, flanked by ornate sarcophagi and created by sculptor Andreas Schlüter, led to a barrel vaulted church. This more intimate space, was adorned by an altarpiece, The Outpouring Of The Holy Spirit, considered to be one of the most significant pieces of artwork in the cathedral and an organ built by the Potsdam company Alexander Schuke, the first to be built after the Second World War.
Heading upward on the Imperial Staircase, I walked slowly, inspecting the multicolored marble and the stone from the Lahn region used in construction as well as the unique candelabra and ceiling crowns. Adorning the ceilings and wall spaces are paintings displaying stories from the life of Jesus Christ and parables. Take note of the “Nazareth” painting hanging opposite the staircase. The original, by Albert Hertel, was lost during the war, however, this reconstruction was painted by Brandenburg restorer and painter Ekkehard Koch.
On the upper level, there is a museum which offers an architectural history on the cathedral with large scale models of wood and plaster. Many of these show some of the original designs by Friedrich Stüler, which were never realized.
Heading higher…270 steps…I was able to lay my eyes on some of the best views of Berlin from the dome. Fascinating statues lined the wide balustrade and I could see famous landmarks such as City Hall, the Humboldt Forum, Museum Island and the television tower.
My final stop was on the lower level of the cathedral, which is the burial place of the Hohenzollern dynasty who ruled Prussian since the Middle Ages and the German Empire from 1871 until 1918. Though the most important kings and emperors are buried near their favorite castles in Berlin, the immense space is lined with beautifully carved tombs and statues from the influential family.
My visit completed, I made my way from the cathedral back into Lustgarten Park. Facing the building, I stopped and gazed up at the domes, my eyes drawn to the spot where I had stood just before. Equally impressive from the outside and the inside, the Berliner Dom is one of the most stunning churches I have visited. An amazing place of history and architecture, it ranks high on the lists of attractions in the once divided city. It now acts as a place which brings people together…a place of worship and a place of tourism.