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Every city has a heart.
And the heartbeat of New Orleans can most assuredly be heard in its centrum…Jackson Square.
When New Orleans was established as a French trading camp, it established its main boundaries along the Mississippi River, a prime location where eventually a river port was established.
Development ensued and the camp evolved into a formal colony with city blocks running perpendicular and parallel to the river. In the center of the development a one-block common area was conceded to the city, the Place d’Armes and it was designed by architect Louis Pilié .
As in many large cities, the square was a multi-use space generally gathering individuals to meet and to buy their wares at the open-air market. Military parades could also be seen marching through the space.
Today, it still operates in much the same way. Visitors from all over the world and locals flock to the square to enjoy its serenity and beauty. It is a place where you might find a couple of shop owners having a bite to eat under one of the shady oaks or two visitors from Italy, enjoying a beignet while savoring the river’s breeze. You can enjoy the occasional jazz band offering a spontaneous concert to garner a following or the impromptu parade that marches through, throwing beats or just simply dancing. Browsing the works of many of the local artisans is a personal favorite pastime of mine. Much of their art can be inspected hanging on the square’s fence or on small tables set up in the pedestrian area surrounding the square. You need to know what your future will bring next month? You can find fortune tellers, card readers in addition to various performers…drummers, tap dancer, puppeteers and singers!
As I walked through the old, iron gates, I marveled in the fact that despite some of the beautiful, slow growing, sago palms having grown significantly since my last visit, it appeared much the same as it did twenty-two years ago. What I was most surprised to see, however, was the statue of the former president of the United States, Andrew Jackson (after whom the square is named), still riding high on his trusted steed.
Last year, demonstrations were held in the city, which called for the removal of the statue which commemorates Jackson’s victory at the Battle of New Orleans in the War of 1812. Protesters were enraged of the glorification of the former President when he, in fact, owned slaves and was responsible for forcing Native Americans from their land while in office.
Walking out of the iron gates, I ambled around the square, marveling in the intricately laid flagstone put down in 1974 when the area became limited to pedestrian traffic.
Some beautiful and historic buildings surround Jackson Square, including St. Louis Cathedral, the Louisiana State Museums, the Presbytere and the Cabildo, which once acted as the governor’s mansion and the 1850 House. The oldest apartment buildings in the United States can be found here, the Lower and Upper Pontalba Apartments, which were built by the Baroness Pontalba, who lobbied for and financed a redesign of the public square in 1814. Though the upper level of the apartments are still partly residential, the ground floors are used for retail shops, museums, galleries and restaurants.
If the myriad of entertainment and shopping choices in Jackson Square is not enough for your taste, head across the street to the Washington Artillery Park overlook for not only beautiful views of The Big Muddy, the square and the Cathedral but for many shopping and dining opportunities next door at the Shops at Jax Brewery.
Transportation to and from the square is convenient and quite easy to get to from any place in the city. From the Convention Center area, you can take the Riverfront Streetcar for a unique transportation experience or from Jackson Square, enjoy the old world method of moving through the city. Grab one of the horse-drawn carriages that line up in front of Jackson Square on Decatur Street.
Whatever your reason for visiting the Crescent City, take the time to see where it all started…Jackson Square…the heart of New Orleans.
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Jackson Square
- https://www.neworleans.com/listing/jackson-square/32150/
- Address: 751 Decatur St., New Orleans, LA 70181
- Hours: Open 7 days a week, from 0800-1900 during daylight savings hours and from 0800-1800 during winter.
- Admission: free
Shops at Jax Brewery
- Address: 600 Decatur St, New Orleans, LA 70130
- Hours: Monday-Friday, 1000-1900, Friday and Saturday, 1000-2000.
As we walked through the large plaza area, Edmundo explained that it was capable of holding thousands of people and was designed for ceremonial activities. The massive terrace walls were the main attraction here, however. The stones used in the wall’s constructions are among the largest used in any building in pre-Hispanic American and so precisely cut and fitted that not even a piece of paper can be inserted between them. The longest wall is approximately 400 meters long and 6 meters tall and appears to be a sort of three dimensional jigsaw puzzle with its largest stone weighing more than 360 tons and 29 feet high. Edmundo pointed out many stones that were cut and placed, forming shapes…a puma’s paw, a llama, a snake, a guinea pig and a bird…shapes we would never have seen had we not had a guide.
As we stood high over the city, the sky darkened and lightening began to flash. So exposed to the elements, we were a bit nervous, however, as accustomed to the ever-changing weather, Edmundo continued his monologue, guiding us through the site, informing us that Sacsayhuamán once had three towers and a labyrinth of rooms large enough to accommodate 5,000 Inca soldiers.
Making our way back down to the parade ground, where the Inti Raymi winter solstice festival is held every June and attended by tens of thousand of spectators, we crossed the massive area over to the Rodadero which was believed to be the religious and ceremonial section. Most of the structures once at the Rodadero were torn down by the Spaniards and later inhabitants of Cusco. We were led down below ground through a passage, ducking our heads to make our way through and emerging above ground in another area. Fun as that was, the best part was coming across the high, smooth rocks that descended in a wavy pattern. Edmundo led me carefully uphill and had me sit. Scooting forward, I began to slide down, faster and faster until I reached the bottom! Yes, the Incas surely must have had fun on this!
Once we checked back with our hotel, we were led through the maze of stairways and hallways leading up to our room on one of the top floors at the rear of the property. Dark wood and white plaster walls were complimented with brightly, woven fabrics. The place was neat and clean and we had a small balcony to sit and enjoy the surrounding mountain walls.
After settling in, we set out to see the town. Consisting of a main square, Plaza Manco Capac, and small passageways set into the mountainside, a railway line cuts through the western part of the town, running northwest to south, most important to the town’s viability. As we walked along the tracks, we watched the town in action, loading and unloading supplies brought in from larger Peruvian cities. Occasionally, the Explorer and Vistadome trains rumbled through and once, we even saw the Hiram Bingham glide by with its 1920’s-style carriages, finished with polished wood and brass. Inside, we could see tables set with white table cloths and fine china and the Observation Car where fortunate travelers can watch the Peruvian countryside with no barrier between them and the fresh air. It was nice to see, as with the prices charged for that type of adventure, it was as close as we were going to get!
We took a walk along Avenida Hermanos Ayar to see where the buses would pick us up in the morning for our trek to Machu Picchu. Buses of weary tourists were arriving from that day’s mountain adventure and it was exciting to think that in a little more than twelve hours, we were going to be setting out from this spot for our adventure of a lifetime.
Next, we made our way up the steep hill toward the hot springs. Although we had brought swimsuits, we decided on the advice of a friend, to skip this adventure. She said that the best time to visit is in the morning when the waters are fresher and not contaminated by the sweaty hikers who have descended from Machu Picchu and the Inca Trail. We checked out the entrance and the shops that rent swimsuits, sandals and towels. Reading up on the attraction later, we found reviews not so favorable, ranging from complaints of urine smells, mold and scum floating on the surface, so we were extremely glad that we had decided against a visit.
Finally, out last stop was the Mercado Artesanal. A vast labyrinth of stalls filled with t-shirts, jewelry, alpaca sweaters, bags, hats and other trinkets, it was confusing yet amusing to peruse this market and we picked up a few things for our children and ourselves.
Though our stay in Aguas Calientes was a short one, I thought the town to be quite charming and glad that we had given ourselves enough time to enjoy it. Once I had posted pictures taken during our stay, another friend confided to me that they had done one of the tours of the Sacred Valley, which had them arriving in Aguas Calientes after dark, departing for Machu Picchu early in the morning and returning to town, only to catch the train and return to Cusco. She loved my pictures and felt like she had been short-changed, wishing that she had had some time to wander around the small town. That being said, we also spoke with another couple who had decided to stay in Aguas Calientes for two nights. With so little to do other than Machu Picchu, they considered two nights to be a bit much.
Having opted to catch the train from the nearby Poroy Station, we set out early in the morning by taxi. As we neared the station, our cab driver attempted to communicate with us and with his limited Spanish, we were concerned that he was lost. Finally, as we pulled into the station parking lot, we learned that he wanted to know our return time the next night so he could pick us up. As I negotiated the price, I felt some relief knowing that upon our arrival, we would not have to hope for transportation back to our hotel.
Almost four hours from the start of our journey in Poroy, we felt the train slowing once again as we pulled into the station at Aguas Calientes, Machu Picchy Station. So excited to begin our exploration of a new part of Peru, we grabbed our bags and headed out, eager to see what this small town had to offer.
Bracing myself for the lack of oxygen required for the climb, we followed our guide and the rest of the Pachamama Group (Mother Earth), as we were now known. Tickets purchased and validated, we were led up another hill past a small market offering colorful blankets, hats and trinkets to a plaza in front of a beautiful adobe church.
Though we were only able to inspect the church’s exterior, we learned that it was constructed in 1607 by the Spanish on the site of an Incan palace, believed to be that of Inca Tupac Tupanqui. The interior was described to be quite lovely with ornate painted ceilings and Catholic and traditional motifs.
Moving on to the open area past the church, we gazed out onto the beautiful, green, mountainous landscape and the fertile terraces and aqueducts, many still in use today. Produce grown on the land includes potatoes, olluco, oca, quinoa and fava beans and are sold at the local market. The ruins of the summer palace of Tupac Tupanqui can still be seen spilling down the hillside with splendid stonework and a stone throne with intricate carvings.
After boarding our bus, we headed a short distance down the road into the center of Chinchero. Home to the Interpretation Center of Andean Textiles, the traditionally dressed women of the village offer weaving demonstrations to visitors, describing the age-old methods of making colors for the wool, and how the wool is washed, dyed and spun.
After a vibrantly woven hat caught my eye, I made a deal with one of the young men working on the premises and then exited to the bus for our next stop, Moray.
Located about 27 kilometers from Chinchero, Moray, is believed to have been used as an agricultural laboratory by the Incas. Though not much more is known, there is speculation that the amphitheater-looking, circular, terraced depressions were used to test and experiment with crops. With temperature differences at each level of the terraces of 15 degrees Celsius, it is believed that each level was used to grow different crops and to test hybridization. Possibly, the many variations of potato grown in Peru originated at Moray.
The mineral-rich (magnesium, iron, calcium and zinc) salt is said to have healing properties and claim to help reduce stress and prevent conditions such as anemia and osteoporosis, in addition to being handy in the kitchen.
Continuing our journey in the mid-day, it was time to head to Urubamba and our lunch. Our group was divided into three and we were all dropped off at different restaurants, though I am not sure what differentiated us into these groups, guessing that it may have been the price we paid for each of our tours. My husband and I and two other couples were deposited at Inka’s House, a large buffet-style restaurant. The food was good at our lunch spot, though others claimed their restaurant was not very good.
As I began the arduous task of making my way to the top, I decided to revel in the climb and enjoy the view every time I had to stop for a breath. Slowly, I climbed, joining forces with another woman, who also insisted she couldn’t make it to the top. With much encouragement for each other, I finally caught up to my husband to the entrance to the temple complex, a short distance from the top.
The Temple of the Sun, an incomplete holy place holds the Wall of the Six Monoliths with its 50 ton stones and is the sight where all the tourists want to take their picture, showing the completion of their ascent. The temple was used as a calendar with its sun dials and other features.
Exiting the fortress area, we made our way through the Mercado Turistico. Taking a quick glance around, it was a colorful affair and we wished that time was included in our itinerary to browse the vendor’s stalls. Quickly grabbing two waters, we fought the crowds to keep up with our group and make our way back to our bus. Once on board, we discovered a few empty seats. No, we hadn’t lost anyone on the mountain, some of our group left us at this point to catch the train to Aguas Calientes, beginning their sojourn to Machu Picchu.
Making our way out of town, we headed up into the mountains. Our guide explained that since the gates to Pisac close at 4:00, we had to drive rather quickly in order to enter. Watching the clock closely as the day was coming to a close, we finally arrived with minutes to spare. Making our way to the parking area, we exited the bus an followed our guide up the terraced hillside to the citadel which sits at 9,751 feet, keeping watch over the village below.
The wind was strong here and as the day was drawing to a close, we quickly walked through the site back to the parking lot and waiting bus, pausing to pose for a quick photo under the entrance sign.
Our last stop was in the town of Pisac, one that I had been very excited about. I had heard great things about their famous market and looked forward to purchasing some unique souvenirs. However, as we drove down the mountain, the sky was growing dark leading me to realize that the market would probably be closing upon our arrival. My prediction was accurate, but we were brought to a jewelry store for a lesson on assessing the quality of silver. Since it was communicated in Spanish, we attempted to understand, however, it was easier to browse the merchandise.
After a walk through some of the small markets and a glimpse at the Presidential Palace, we jumped back into a cab and headed back toward Miraflores. Traffic of course, was at its usual, almost standstill. Heading down Avenue Arequipa, we made a quick decision to stop our driver near a street heading to Huaca Pucllana (read about my first visit on my post A Peruvian Pyramid), a great adobe and clay pyramid which served as an important ceremonial and administrative center between the years of 200 and 700 AD. Luckily, an English tour was about to commence and were able to follow along, learning about the historic structure.
Finally, we headed back toward Parque Kennedy in the center of Miraflores. Walking through the park, I pointed out the Church of the Miraculous Virgin (read about my first visit in my post The Colonial Church) and City Hall. Guiding my husband toward a store, La Quinta, with tables piled high with clothing, he inquired as to whether he was going to get some of the churros that I always talk about. Yes, but first a little shopping expedition (read more about it in my blog post Shop Til You Drop)!
So, we were up early the next morning and heading even further south into Peru. Though is was an arduous task getting to the airport, even with easy Saturday traffic, the check-in process with LC Peru was quite simple and before lunchtime, we had already checked into our hotel in Cusco.
Finally, with tickets in hand, we set out to accomplish the last of our tasks of the day, collecting our tickets for our Sacred Valley tour the next morning. This tour had been set up for us by a friend of a friend. As we found the office, met the agent and paid for the tour tickets, we were instructed on our pick up time in the morning and what our day would entail…lots of stops, beautiful ruins, interaction with the local people and lunch. Very excited about to hear what our upcoming day, we bid our travel agent goodbye and continued our explorations of the Plaza de Armas, culminating with a scrumptious, Peruvian dinner.
For the past few years, I have enviously swiped through my friend’s Facebook posts about their sojourns to Machu Picchu. Spying them perched on the mountainside with the picturesque citadel spread out below them…and the occasional llama or two…I envisioned myself there one day.
LATAM? Avianca? Star Peru? Peruvian? LC Peru? Viva Air Peru?
Second order of business…getting to Aguas Calientes. The Peru Rail website was pretty straightforward and we decided that we would travel from Cusco Poroy station to Aguas Calientes, instead of from Ollantaytambo, which required a lengthy taxi or bus ride. Pricing wasn’t much different and we would leave early, arriving around 11:00 am. After selecting our options, the website made a reservation and charged my credit card, however, it did not generate tickets. I knew something was off but not sure what the problem was. After two phone calls to Peru, I finally found someone at Peru Rail who could help. Six hours later, many emails back and forth, plus the submittal of information requested, we finally had tickets. A refund for the first charges was processed about a week later.
Next, we needed a hotel room in Aguas Calientes. There are many options from hostels to high-end spas. After perusing different choices on Agoda, I decided that with so little time at the hotel, it was not prudent to spend a great deal for one night. Deciding on a mid-grade room, this was booked and paid for.
Figuring out what to pack was much tougher than I expected and I spent many days, shopping and then returning items that I ultimately decided were not what the trip required. The weather seemed to change on a dime and everyone uttered those words I hate, “bring layers”. The weather forecast even gave the type of temperatures that I hate, “60s”! 60 in the sun, can be totally different than 60 in the shade!
Looking for a “Trajan Market” sign (or the Italian equivalent) marking the entrance, I must have walked past the actual entrance three or four times before I realized that the Museum of the Imperial Fora was where I needed to be.
Walking to the far end of the building, I utilized the stairway and headed to the courtyard on the side of the market. Here, current exhibitions are on display and I was pleasantly surprised to discover The Spiral, an installation designed by artist Luminita Taranu, inspired by the Trajan’s Column. I loved the colorful hues and metals used in the creation of this masterpiece…and I loved the photo opportunities it presented!
Walking back through the interior part of the compound, I took more time to inspect the intricacies of the construction and the pieces that occupied its interior.
