The Heart of the Quarter

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Every city has a heart.

And the heartbeat of New Orleans can most assuredly be heard in its centrum…Jackson Square.

When New Orleans was established as a French trading camp, it established its main boundaries along the Mississippi River, a prime location where eventually a river port was established.

Development ensued and the camp evolved into a formal colony with city blocks running perpendicular and parallel to the river. In the center of the development a one-block common area was conceded to the city, the Place d’Armes and it was designed by architect Louis Pilié .

As in many large cities, the square was a multi-use space generally gathering individuals to meet and to buy their wares at the open-air market. Military parades could also be seen marching through the space.

Today, it still operates in much the same way. Visitors from all over the world and locals flock to the square to enjoy its serenity and beauty. It is a place where you might find a couple of shop owners having a bite to eat under one of the shady oaks or two visitors from Italy, enjoying a beignet while savoring the river’s breeze. You can enjoy the occasional jazz band offering a spontaneous concert to garner a following or the impromptu parade that marches through, throwing beats or just simply dancing. Browsing the works of many of the local artisans is a personal favorite pastime of mine. Much of their art can be inspected hanging on the square’s fence or on small tables set up in the pedestrian area surrounding the square. You need to know what your future will bring next month? You can find fortune tellers, card readers in addition to various performers…drummers, tap dancer, puppeteers and singers!

As I walked through the old, iron gates, I marveled in the fact that despite some of the beautiful, slow growing, sago palms having grown significantly since my last visit, it appeared much the same as it did twenty-two years ago. What I was most surprised to see, however, was the statue of the former president of the United States, Andrew Jackson (after whom the square is named), still riding high on his trusted steed.

Last year, demonstrations were held in the city, which called for the removal of the statue which commemorates Jackson’s victory at the Battle of New Orleans in the War of 1812. Protesters were enraged of the glorification of the former President when he, in fact, owned slaves and was responsible for forcing Native Americans from their land while in office.

Walking out of the iron gates, I ambled around the square, marveling in the intricately laid flagstone put down in 1974 when the area became limited to pedestrian traffic.

Some beautiful and historic buildings surround Jackson Square, including St. Louis Cathedral, the Louisiana State Museums, the Presbytere and the Cabildo, which once acted as the governor’s mansion and the 1850 House. The oldest apartment buildings in the United States can be found here, the Lower and Upper Pontalba Apartments, which were built by the Baroness Pontalba, who lobbied for and financed a redesign of the public square in 1814. Though the upper level of the apartments are still partly residential, the ground floors are used for retail shops, museums, galleries and restaurants.

If the myriad of entertainment and shopping choices in Jackson Square is not enough for your taste, head across the street to the Washington Artillery Park overlook for not only beautiful views of The Big Muddy, the square and the Cathedral but for many shopping and dining opportunities next door at the Shops at Jax Brewery.

Transportation to and from the square is convenient and quite easy to get to from any place in the city. From the Convention Center area, you can take the Riverfront Streetcar for a unique transportation experience or from Jackson Square, enjoy the old world method of moving through the city. Grab one of the horse-drawn carriages that line up in front of Jackson Square on Decatur Street.

Whatever your reason for visiting the Crescent City, take the time to see where it all started…Jackson Square…the heart of New Orleans.

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Jackson Square

Shops at Jax Brewery

  • Address: 600 Decatur St, New Orleans, LA 70130
  • Hours: Monday-Friday, 1000-1900, Friday and Saturday, 1000-2000.

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