Having been to many European markets, I know what makes a good one.
Variety!
Does the European inspired French Market in New Orleans measure up?
Absolutely!
Recently, while in the city, I headed down to the French Market to find some unique souvenirs. Though it was late afternoon in winter and some of the vendors had found it too cold to remain, I knew from previous visits that it is usually a quite lively venue.
Offering shopping, dining, music and local tradition, this open-air market has its origins in the Native American trade dating back to 1791. As French and Spanish colonists opened the market up to ships and traders from all over the world, this set up the stage for expansion during the next three centuries. Immigrants from Europe, Africa and the Caribbean, saw the opportunity to offer their own wares at the market, offering various products including Italian meats, fabrics, produce, African coffee and spices, and the bazaar continued to expand.
By the late 19th century, the French Market was in need of a makeover…one that would give it some order. Architect, Joseph Abeilard, designed a modern day structure which is still in use today.
In 1978, the former mayor, Ernest, N. Morial, made the decision to kick up the market’s appeal by introducing Dutch Alley, a pedestrian plaza at Dumaine and St. Phillip Streets. This addition included a performance tent, historic statues, the Dutch Alley Artist Coop and the visitor center for the New Orleans Jazz National Park.
Though I had just had lunch a couple of hours before, my stomach growled at the sights laid out before me and the smells that permeated the air. The famous Cafe du Monde, the outdoor cafe which specialized in beignets and cafe au lait, is nearby but I had already had an order of the powdered sugar covered fried dough the day before and I was itching for something new. Browsing the iconic dishes…Po Boys, Gator Burgers, Jambalaya, Cheese Grits, just to name a few, it was a hard decision knowing I had to leave room for dinner later. With my mind made up, I headed toward the counter for beignets…yes again…but this time from a small dessert establishment which specializes in Praline Beignets! Fried with the praline at the center, it all melts together in your mouth for an unbelievable culinary experience!
My stomach full and my strength replenished, I headed through the protracted market (five blocks in all!), stopping along the way to inspect the t-shirts, produce, specialty art, handmade crafts, prints, scrubs and lotions, handmade jewelry, accessories, photography and much more, offered for sale. Believe me, there’s not much that you can’t find here…you are only limited by the cash in your pocketbook!
If you are staying in a local home and are interested in making the most of your own culinary skills, then the Farmers Market Pavilion is your place! Open daily, this is the place to find seasonal vegetables and homegrown spices in addition to specialty foods with worldly inspirations, especially on Wednesdays and Sundays when vendors come from the entire region with their wares.
If you are visiting in the Spring, look out for the Creole Tomato Festival which is free to the public and offers an endless array of fresh picked tomatoes and tomato based dishes unique to the area.
New Orleans is called the Big Easy, but with so much to experience, especially at the French Market, it is definitely not easy! Grab a table, grab some food and grab the experience!
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Address: 700-1010 Decatur St, New Orleans, LA 70116
Hours: Daily, 0800-1730.
Admisssion: free
Getting There: Take the St. Charles streetcar from Uptown or the Canal Street streetcar from Mid-City and get off at Canal and Carondelet Street to walk a few blocks to the river. There are paid parking lots along S. Peters Street near Jackson Square.
As I stood before the regal, St. Louis Cathedral in the French Quarter, I watched a line of small schoolchildren, hand in hand, make their way to the entrance.
This brought me back to the day, when as a schoolchild on a field trip, I stood on this exact spot, mesmerized the city’s most notable landmark…one, known worldwide by its central position towering over iconic Jackson Square and its neighbors, the Cabildo and the Presbytere.
Though this beautiful cathedral is one for which the city is known, and is the oldest Catholic cathedral in continual use in the United States, few realize that The Cathedral-Basilica of St. Louis is actually the third Roman Catholic church to have stood on the site. When the city was founded, the first church erected here, in 1718, was a basic wooden structure for the early colonists’ worship. In 1725, the construction of a larger brick and timber church was begun and completed in 1727. When the Great New Orleans Fire ravaged the city in 1788, the church was destroyed. Rebuilding ensued and the new church was completed in 1794 with the church being elevated to cathedral rank. After a massive renovation to enlarge the structure was begun in 1849, resulting in the collapse of the central tower, it was finally decided to demolish most of the church resulting in very little of the Spanish Colonial structure remaining.
Today, what we can observe in Jackson Square dates back to 1850, however, the bell from the 1819 tower was reused and still there today.
The cathedral was designated a minor basilica by Pope Paul VI in 1965, but in front of the cathedral, you can spy a beautiful statue of Pope John Paul II, a gift of the Archdiocese of New Orleans and the American Italian Cultural Center. It was blessed by Pope Francis in Saint Peter’s Square and commemorates Pope John Paul II’s visit to the cathedral in 1987.
Entering the cathedral, I found the interior to be a well lit space though not as ornate one would expect. My eyes were immediately drawn upward to the beautifully detailed ceiling centered with a painting of St. Peter receiving his shepherd’s staff from the Savior and surrounded by apostles. Walking through the center aisle, I made my way to the great high Rococo style gilded altar flanked and topped by intricate statues. The three statues on the top represent faith, hope and charity and St. Paul, on the left of the tabernacle holds a book and St. Peter on the right, holds a book. Other statues with the cathedral depict St. Joan of Arc, Our Lady of Prompt Succor, St. Joseph, St. Anthony of Padua and the Sacred Heart of Jesus. In the foyer are statues of Mary, Queen of Poor Souls and St. Therese of Lisieux.
The cathedral is divided into nave and side aisles by two rows of wooden columns with an upper gallery lined with the flags of six countries and several local Catholic Dioceses. Passing through these columns, I made my way to the outer walls of the cathedral to inspect the beautifully rendered depictions of St. Louis IX, which tell stories of the saint’s life.
Glancing up at the organ, I admired its simplistic beauty. I later learned, however, that when Hurricane Katrina roared through the city in 2005, not much was spared including the cathedral. The powerful winds ripped a hole in the roof, which allowed water to enter, damaging the Holtkamppipe organ. The organ was sent back to Holtkamp to be rebuilt and finally reinstalled three years later.
Speaking with a volunteer docent, I also learned a couple of interesting tidbits about the cathedral. The cathedral contains the remains of eight New Orleans bishops. Another body buried in the church is Fr. Antonio de Sedella, commonly known as Père Antoine, who was a priest in the church. What is most intriguing about Père Antoine is that he loved his position at this particular location so deeply that he is alleged to haunt the premises. Accounts of parishioners and tourists claim that he walks the alley (named after him) next to the cathedral in the early mornings and appears during Christmas Midnight Mass near the left side of the altar, holding a a candle.
Another apparition often seen at the cathedral is that of Père Dagobert, a monk who resided in the church. If you visit on a rainy day, you might hear his voice chanting the Kyrie.
Although a Catholic house of worship, the cathedral has a rich history and appeals to visitors of all faiths and nationalities as evidenced by the large number of visitors meandering through the building while I was there. While wandering the French Quarter, have a look inside, attend Mass or better yet, try to get a glimpse of Père Antoine or Père Dagobert. All experiences you will never forget!
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Address: 615 Pere Antoine Alley, New Orleans, LA 70116
Hours: Daily, 0830-1600. Daily Mass, 12:05
Tours: Self-guided brochures are available in the entrance for a $1.00 donation. Visitors can get an impromptu tour from our volunteer docents when available. Guided tours for groups are only available with prior reservations.
Admission: free
Tours: Self-guided brochures are available in the entrance for $1.00 donation and impromptu tours are available from volunteer docents when present.
Getting There: By bus, lines #5 and #55. By streetcar, line #49, found at St. Anne Street, 5 blocks northwest of the cathedral.
As a young, Catholic girl in Louisiana, I attended Catholic school.
In my white shirt and pleated, dark navy skirt, I happily attended school every day, eager to learn not only the rudimentary lessons but the religious ones as well.
Though many of my teachers were non-clerical, I did have the privilege to be taught by a handful of nuns over the years. Sisters Martial, Cecilia, Fatima, Roland and David.
These nuns resided in the nearby convent and we always loved going there to help with projects and pray in the chapel. It was such a feeling of peace and a peek into a completely different way of life.
While traipsing around the French Quarter, I happened upon the Ursaline Convent and Museum. Disappointed to find that it had just closed for the day, I turned away eager to return as soon as possible. The next day, I was back, bright and early, to tour the oldest building in the Mississippi Valley that acted as home, orphanage and school for the Ursaline Nuns.
After LaSalle’s discovery of the mouth of the Mississippi, Father Nicolas Ignace de Beaubois (with the help of Governor Bienville) sought out the assistance of the Ursaline nuns to travel to France’s first settlement in the lower Mississippi Valley.
There was a great need for ministering at the poorly run hospital and also for the education of the young girls of the colony.
The nuns arrived in 1727 and the convent built for them was completed in 1734. After the city’s first Eucharistic procession, the nuns accompanied by notables and citizens, they moved into their new home which faced the river. The convent served as home and the center of operations for the hospital and school until the new convent on Chartres Street was completed in 1752.
This new convent, built slightly before the city’s grand Cathedral, was constructed in the French Colonial style. It has been described as “the finest surviving example of French Colonial public architecture in the country” by the National Parks Service.
It was this two-story white plastered brick building that I gazed upon as I entered through the old stone walls. But what set off this beautifully simple building was the green maze of a garden that lay before it. Stopping for a moment, I admired the old bell and the cast iron cross in the courtyard which was a gift of the city of Rouen, France to commemorate the arrival of the nuns.
Making my way between the hedges, I headed inside to see what I might find. Admiring the beautiful stained glass above the double doorway, I stepped into the foyer, taking in the wooden stairway, golden statue of Madonna and Child and a tall, wooden clock. This clock, I learned, was constructed from elements brought by the Ursalines in 1727. When the nuns were asked to establish a convent in Galveston, Texas in the 19th century, the community gifted it to them upon their departure. As a devastating hurricane swept through southern Texas in 1900, it took the lives of nine nuns, ninety students and thousands of residents. The clock survived, however, and was returned to New Orleans in the first decade of the 20th century.
The Ursaline Room was adjacent to the foyer and was originally the orphan’s dining room. Facing the river, these young residents could look out at the dark, fast moving Mississippi and realize that another life awaited them once they aged out of the orphanage. This room is now empty, save for a large statue and a handmade chasuble dating back to the 18th century. The original cypress ceiling beams are visible overhead.
It was here that I also learned of the Sweetheart statue. The small plastered statue was found in a convent attic in France by Sister Felicite. Despaired to see it so carelessly cast aside, she prayed for an immediate departure to the new French colony and was granted her leave almost immediately with the statue in tow. In 1788, this statue was placed by one of the nuns in the window of the convent as fire raged through New Orleans. The approaching fire was suddenly blown back by the wind and died out, keeping the convent safe. This statue has since then been credited with many astonishing miracles.
Making my way through what appeared to be a small sanctuary, I found myself inside St. Mary’s Church. This church was built in 1845 and served as the bishop’s chapel, the place of worship for the bishops and archbishops of New Orleans when they were in residence at the convent. It was the third chapel built on the site and it was interesting to learn that a bell tower that once stood at the location was destroyed by the 1914 hurricane.
The church was quiet and I made my way through admiring the beautiful altar, framed by angel and cherub statues. There were many other statues in church and the stations of the cross were distributed between the tall stained glass windows. It wasn’t until later during my tour, after talking with one of the staff that I learned that only one side of the church’s windows were authentic stained glass…the other side painted. I immediately went back to the church to seek out the window where it was discovered that it was not stained when cleaning and part of the bottom of the scene was rubbed off.
St. Mary’s Church Exterior
Exiting the chapel, I headed into the far side of the convent, where you can see some of the small cells where the nuns resided. One of these small rooms is currently being used as an administrative office and the others have been enlarged to house exhibitions. The most current being The Church In The Crescent: Three Hundred Years of Catholicism in New Orleans. This exhibit highlights the history of the city and the elegant St. Louis Cathedral. Emerging from a small wooden church to the present day construction, its story is displayed for visitors to examine in the form of photographs, portraits, letters and artifacts. Although I had already visited the Cathedral, after the watching the documentary available for visitors, there was so much explained about the interior of the building that I almost wanted to go back and take another look!
Finally, I headed outside to the space that is now being used for wedding receptions. Once a wedding has been finalized in the chapel, the bride, groom and guests can head out to the tented area at the rear of the convent for the reception.
Beyond the tented area, however, is what caught my attention…a grotto containing the Madonna and child and the life-sized statues of priests and nuns praying. Each statue’s expression was unique, but one of utter reverence. Absolutely breathtaking!
As a Catholic, I truly enjoyed my visit as it stirred up fond memories of my childhood, however, anyone interested in the rich history of the city and its architecture would truly be enthralled with this amazing museum. Pray your way there!
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I have been to some of the most famous cemeteries in the world; Pere Lachaise in France, La Recoleta in Bueno Aires, Monumentale in Milan, just to name a few. The history, architecture and craftsmanship that can be viewed in each of these places is unparalleled.
Having grown up in Louisiana, seeing graves that are raised above the ground is nothing new to me. Because the water table is so high, graves would fill with water and the buoyant casket would seek to float, eventually popping out of the ground. Because of this dilemma, it was decided, hundreds of years ago, that tombs would be built above the ground to house the departed. Some tombs were (and still are) built to accommodate one casket and others, built on a grander scale could accommodate an entire family…some so large that they resemble small homes or chapels. Visitors to the south, however, are intrigued with our burial system and some of the most beautiful and immense tombs can be found in many of the New Orleans cemeteries…a sort of city of the dead.
St. Louis Cemeteries 1 and 2, located near the French Quarter, are both on the National Register of Historic Places and feature the tombs of several historic individuals and families including Voodoo Queen Marie Laveau, Henriette Delille, Foundress of the Sisters of the Holy Family (presently awaiting canonization), Daniel Clark, financial supporter of the American Revolution and Jacques N.B. de Pouilly, architect of the St. Louis Cathedral.
Since I have seen some of the most famous cemeteries in the world, it was a given that I had to visit the most notable one in New Orleans, St. Louis Cemetery #1. Located a short walk from the city’s French Quarter, it was quite easy to locate, however, once I arrived, I was informed that I would be required to join a tour. With over 100,000 visitor’s each year, the cemetery has been subject to extreme vandalism. Hoping to preserve the sanctity of the cemetery, guests are now required to enter the premises with a licensed guide.
Paying my admittance fee, I waited patiently for the tour to start and was soon joined by Australians, Ethiopians and Italians, proving that curiosity about the oldest cemetery (built in 1789) and its inhabitants has a worldwide reach.
Eagerly following our tour guide, Steve, as he wove his way around the monumental tombs, we first learned how economical vaults were built into the cemetery walls. It was quite interesting to see the wall vaults stacked one above the other, with some now only partially visible near the ground, evidence that the below sea level city is sinking. These vaults contain the remains of many family members within the tomb. After the family member passes, the remains go untouched for a year and a day and then are pushed to the rear of the vault, making room for the next unfortunate soul.
In the center of the property. we witnessed white walls and roofs blocking our view of the entire cemetery. Here, the larger crypts also hold many family members within their massive walls.
With the cemetery being one of the oldest in the city, it is a given that many of the graves are in various states of repair…some taken care of by family, some by volunteers, some by process of having purchased Perpetual Care and many long forgotten. Crumbling and overgrown with moss and fern, the former graves’ appearance lends itself to the creepy image that many envision when thinking of old cemeteries and though you would think that many a horror movie would be shot here, filming is not allowed.
We waited patiently for our turn to stand in front of one of the most famous gravesites in St. Louis #1…the location where it is believed that Marie Laveau is entombed…next door to the former mayor, Dutch Morial, the first African American to hold the office. Laveau’s grave is marked with faded Xs, once a common practice in petitioning the deceased soul. It was believed that the Voodoo priestess would grant your wish if you marked the tomb, placed your hand over it, rubbed your foot three times against the bottom, placed some silver coins in the cup. Since this is actually desecration of a gravesite, it is evidently one of the reasons why visitors are only allowed in the cemetery with an escort.
We passed the tomb of Paul Morphy, who passed away in 1884 at the age of 47, and is considered to have been the greatest chess master of his era. Considered a chess prodigy, he was described by Bobby Fischer as “perhaps the most accurate player who ever lived”. His grave is aptly marked with chess pieces.
As we turned to head further into the cemetery, we could all see the tip of what appeared to be a pyramid. In much newer condition that most of the other tombs, we were informed that it belongs to the actor Nicolas Cage. Though he now resides in Las Vegas, the performer once lived in New Orleans, at 1140 Royal Street (believe it or not!) in the LaLaurie Mansion! His pyramid presently stands dignified but empty, awaiting his demise.
How is it that someone like Nicholas Cage gets to be buried in St. Louis #1? Well, if you have $40,000, you can too. The steep price will buy you a plot next to some of New Orleans’ most notorious residents.
Following our guide, we continued on to the towering Italian Mutual Benevolent Society’s marble tomb, which was designed by architect Pietro Gualdi in 1857. Designed in the Baroque style, it includes three elegantly carved marble statues of female figures; one holding a cross crowning the top, one in a niche above the engraving “Italia” and another out of view in a niche on the left representing “Charity”. It contains 24 vaults which were for the temporary use of the society’s members whose bones would remain in the tomb for about a year and then removed and placed in a receptacle in the tomb’s basement. Nearby, are the Portuguese Burial Society and the New Orleans Musicians Tombs which operate on the same premise at the Italian Benevolent Society, giving those of the association a place to be buried.
At the rear of the cemetery, we were directed to the Protestant section, which was assigned to the Christ Church (Episcopal) for the burial of non-Catholics. All that remains of this area, however, is the area between the wall vaults and some brick walls. Between 1822-1838, the burials from the Protestant section, which extended beyond the back wall, were transferred to the Girod Street Cemetery to make way for neighborhood development. What I found interesting, however, was that non-Catholic burials have always been allowed in any part of the cemetery and some Catholics were actually buried in the Protestant section.
Nearby, we found the grave of Étienne de Boré, a local plantation owner and an important person to the sugar cane industry famous for producing the first granulated sugar in Louisiana. Making the sugar cane crop profitable for local farmers, the industry still continues strong today with more than 400,000 acres of land in 22 Louisiana parishes producing approximately 13 million tons yearly and employing about 17,000 employees.
It was quite interesting and yet peaceful to walk among the decrepit graves in the cold, winter morning and I thought it a pity that others’ desecration of the cemetery had made it hard for those of us who might like to take their time wandering among the lesser know grave sites instead of being ushered along by our guide in his attempt to keep the tour at the allotted forty-five minute limit.
The cemetery has been preserved as best as it can be and with the new fees imposed by the Archdiocese, it is the hope that the cemetery will be available for all to enjoy for hundreds of years to come. Security has been added and through the hard work of the caretakers, St. Louis Cemetery #1 will remain open to the public. One caretaker devoted most of his life to the care and preservation of this historic place, Alexander “Buddy” Anspecker. Working in the location for 41 years, he could always be counted on for his dedication and descriptive tours of the historic tombs.
Finally, however, I learned something very interesting…something that brought my adventures full circle.
The day before I had sought out the LaLaurie Mansion on Royal Street. Earlier in the tour, I learned that actor Nicolas Cage had resided in the LaLaurie Mansion. On this day, however, I learned that though it was thought that Madame Marie Delphine LaLaurie had died in France, in a boar-hunting accident, a caretaker of the cemetery, Eugene Backes (many years before “Buddy”), discovered an old cracked, copper plate in Alley 4 of the cemetery. The inscription read, “Madame Lalaurie, née Marie Delphine Maccarthy, décédée à Paris, le 7 Décembre, 1842, à l’âge de 6–.” declaring that perhaps, Madame LaLaurie had returned from France to rest among the distinguished departed residents of St. Louis #1.
Though we were not made privy to the location of this copper plate, it gives rise to the notion that New Orleans’ history is quite complex and interwoven.
The walk to St. Louis Cemetery #1 is a short one and although the price a bit steep for the tours offered, keep in mind that the money is helping to preserve this treasure. Though you would never catch me in a cemetery at night, especially within a city rich in the Voodoo culture and alive with many superstitions, I was pleasantly surprised at the vast array of prominence laid to rest here. Definitely worth the visit in light of its history!
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It is no big secret that many of the city of New Orleans’ most famous landmarks are shrouded in stories of murder, ghostly appearances and unexplained happenings.
In the 1700s, pirates, outcasts and renegades roamed the streets of the French Quarter and lawlessness prevailed. But, even among the city’s elite, morbid stories can be found in the history books.
Fans of the show, American Horror Story, will recognize the tale of Marie Delphine LaLaurie, the wealthy homeowner who was rumored to have tortured and killed her slaves.
Having seen the third season of the popular television series, I was interested in finding Madame LaLaurie’s former home. Deciding not to book one of the many ghost tours that frequent the location, I set out on my own to find the site which is considered to be one of the most haunted in the city.
Located a few blocks from the Voodoo Museum, the dark grey, stately home looks much like the rest of the architectural gems that grace the streets of the city. But, how many others garner the interest that this one does? Just walk past the two story home at any time of the day and you will understand. Many people congregate in front of the home at all hours, snapping pictures of the mansion on the corner of Royal and Governor Nicholls Streets.
But why?
They could be fans of American Horror Story (although most of the scenes were shot at the Hermann-Grima House on St. Louis Street). It could be that they are hoping to experience some sort of paranormal connection to the spirits that supposedly roam the premises. Or…it could be that as they snap away on the cell phones, they are hoping to capture one of the entities that haunt its halls peeking out its windows at the curiosity seekers.
The mansion’s owner, Marie Delphine LaLaurie, belonged to a wealthy Irish family that managed an extensive real estate portfolio in the Crescent City. To aid in their endeavors, they owned a great many slaves.
Marie Delphine’s first marriage was to Don Ramon de Lopez y Angullo, a high ranking Spanish officer until his death, under mysterious circumstances, in 1884. Marrying Jean Blanque, four years later, they purchased a home at 409 Royal Street and filled it with four daughters (in addition to Marie’s first born child with Angullo). Unfortunately Blanque passed away eight years later, leading to Marie Delphine’s third and final marriage, in 1825, to Leonard Louis Nicolas LaLaurie. It was this marriage that was the beginning of a chain of events that have led to the mansion’s prevailing reputation.
In 1831, Marie Delphine and LaLaurie purchased a new home just down the street where they would reside with two of her children. The marriage was not a happy one and in 1834, LaLaurie moved out of the home.
Marie Delphine was extremely distraught at the departure of her husband and rumors spread that she became a cruel mistress who harmed her slaves and gave no thought to their well-being.
After a young female slave named Leia, fell to her death in the courtyard, Marie Delphine’s remaining slaves were set free following an investigation of the incident. Marie Delphine set about purchasing her slaves back and nothing more was heard for quite some time, from 1140 Royal Street, as she settled into her life as a single woman.
A few years later, when fire destroyed part of the house, it was discovered that Marie Delphine had kept seven slaves chained in the attic…starved and tortured.
As news of the event reached the citizens of the city, they attacked the residence, enraged, calling Marie Delphine a “monster” and a “demon”. Stories began to surface about the condition that some of the slaves were found in…bones broken numerous times and set in unnatural positions, one slave said to have had a hole drilled in their head with a wooden spoon sticking out, another found with their skin peeled back so that muscle and tissue were exposed and yet another said to have had their intestines removed from their body and wrapped around their waist. Others were covered with honey and black ants and many others found dead.
When the home was sold years later, workmen claimed to have found numerous human skeletons beneath the house placed in abnormal positions, barely buried in the soil and many with holes in their skulls. The authorities conducted an investigation and concluded that these skeletons were indeed bodies of some of the former slaves that were thought to be killed in the LaLaurie Mansion.
Many people have debunked the stories that have followed Madame LaLaurie saying that they were the work of unscrupulous news agencies and former neighbors who may have had grievances with her. It is not to say that she may have not been the nicest mistress, as she was once visited by a lawyer, sent by the city, to warn her about the mistreatment of her slaves.
After her departure, however former residence has produced many reports of paranormal activity…moaning coming from a room where the slaves were kept, footsteps and negative energy felt by those in or near the house. There were also reports that a demon terrorized many who lived in the building in the following years, once resulting in the death of one of the residents. When the mansion operated as a girls’ school in the mid-to late nineteenth century, many of the young girls related to their teachers that they had been assaulted, their forearms scratched and bruised. They always described their attacker as “that woman”.
Could the cruel attacker, be the spirit of Madame LaLaurie, the demon or some other vicious entity? Or maybe the slaves that were tortured here returned to repay the malice they received.
Today, nearly two centuries after the horrific fire, the mansion is still viewed as a place of horror. Though many owners have bought and sold the home, no one has remained in the mansion for longer than five years, as it has been viewed as a place that has been cursed, bringing bad luck and devastation to those who reside here.
As I stood in front of this well-kept, historic mansion, I didn’t feel anything strange or see anything that appeared to be supernatural…much to my disappointment, as I believe there is another realm that reaches its creepy fingers out to us in locations that are more susceptible. If you believe in the paranormal, however, seek out this historic residence in the city’s French Quarter. A ghost tour may be more to your liking with their intimate knowledge of this location and many others, however if you venture here on your own, you may be a bit disappointed as there is not much more to see than a grand residence. If you are one of the (lucky?) ones, however, you may get to experience some of the strange occurrences that others have felt outside of the building…pulling on bags and arms, lights illuminating and extinguishing or visions in the windows.
Visit if you dare…
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LaLaurie Mansion
Address: 1140 Royal Street
Hours: Can be viewed from the street, 24 hours, daily
Admission: Private residence, no admittance allowed.
What do you do when you are in Switzerland and have eaten too many Swiss chocolates?
Get some exercise.
You can climb a mountain; Mount Rigis and Mount Pilatus are nearby. If it’s winter, you can ski; downhill or cross country are popular. If you are not keen on going too far, however, you can take a walk uphill from the city center, to the imposing medieval ramparts, the Museggmauer.
The Museggmauer has guarded Lucerne since the 14th century, has withstood the elements and the test of time and now attracts thousands of visitors each year. Well preserved, the wall measures over 2,854 feet in length and almost five feet wide. The height varies depending on the terrain, but averages approximately 27 feet. The wall has nine gates that are still intact, with four open to the public and a large part of the wall is navigable.
I must confess, I had made a note, while doing research on Lucerne, that this was something important to see, however, I wasn’t quite sure what it is that we were going to see…besides a wall which has been described as the defining line between city and country. We headed uphill until we reached the Museggmauer, admiring its impressive length and stature.
Spying a stairway up into one of the towers, the Schirmerturm, we decided to make the climb to see what it contained. The first towers, Dachliturm, Allenwindenturm, Pulverturm, to the east of Schirmerturm, are still standing, although at the time, I had understood that no access to the wall or towers is allowed past Schirmerturm. There wasn’t much to see inside the tower, but we peered out from the windows and admired views of the city. Realizing that we could walk outside the tower, we discovered a walkway on top of the wall leading to the other towers to the west. What I later learned was that although we weren’t able to walk along the top of the tower wall to the eastern towers, the towers are accessible, each offering information on the Wey-Guild, the Vereinigung Luzerner Maskenfreunde (VLM), Club of Luzern Mask, the Tambouren Club and the Luzern Carpenters Union.
Schirmerturm
The Zytturm was next along the wall and contains the oldest clock in Lucerne. Constructed by Hans Luter in 1535, the clock chimes one minute before any other clock in the city. Despite the main clock’s maturity, the stone weights and pendulum still keep time precisely. We were able to move throughout the tower and see the inner workings of the timepiece as well as examine the exhibition of historic clocks dating from between the late Middle Ages and the 20th century.
Zytturm
The third tower open to the public is the Wachturm or the Watch Tower. The tower that stood here originally, the Heuturm, was destroyed in 1701 when lightening struck the tower, igniting the gunpowder stored within. The explosion damaged the adjacent wall, houses in town and five people were killed. The Watchtower was built immediately after the disaster, but only given its name in 1768, when the guard room was moved from the Luegislandegg to this one. Today, you can glean information from the ornithologic society about the live birds around the Museggmauer and the protection of bats in the district of Lucerne.
Wachturm
Passing the Lugislandturm, we continued on our way to the final tower open to the public, the Mannliturm. Of the four accessible towers, this was my favorite. Making our way up the 138 steps to the top, we discovered the statue of a little soldier (Mannli) which sits atop one of the two spires and is quite famous throughout Switzerland. It was here, from this ancient tower built in 1327, that we had the best views of the city, the surrounding mountains and the sparkling lake.
Lugislandturm
Mannliturm
Exiting the Mannliturm, we were able to observe the last tower on the wall, the Nolliturm from the outside while on our way back into town.
Nolliturm
The Museggmauer is truly one of the gems of Lucerne. With its free admission and rich history, it is something not to be missed, especially for its birds’ eye views of the beautiful Swiss city.
Make the climb.
Take the walk.
Enjoy the nine towers.
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Walking along the River Reuss, between the ancient bridges that traverse the waterway, I looked over…
and spied a cross across the river…topping a church.
The Jesuit church, with its recognizable onion domed bell-towers, governs the left bank of the river. The first Baroque church built in Switzerland, it is also considered to be one of the most beautiful. Designed by Italian and Austrian architects, under the guidance of Jesuit Father Christoph Vogler, construction began in 1666 and the church was consecrated a short eleven years later. Though the interior was still lacking, the shell and main facade were completed. Upon the time of consecration, several side altars were still missing as well as the high altar and the towers were finally completed in 1893.
A major tourist attraction, I anticipated seeing throngs of people entering and exiting the building, however, all was quiet in front of the church, leading me to expect to find the doors locked. Surprisingly, I found them open and made my way into the beautiful interior.
When in Lucerne, it is best to cross the river and view the church from the other side of the river to admire the simplistic nature of its facade. As you enter, however, make sure to reexamine the facade from a closer perspective. It is over the entrance door where you can find the beautifully carved statue of the Jesuit missionary Saint Francis Xavier, the patron saint of the church.
Inside the church it is light and airy with gray and rose colored relief decorations embellishing the white interior. The nave, leading to the altar, displays a decorated vaulted ceiling depicting the glory of Saint Francis Xavier. At the front of the church is a grand altar-piece made of pink marble…or so you think. Upon closer inspection, you realize that it is actually made of plaster and stucco, a process perfected in the southern Alps where marble is difficult to transport.
As I turned to gaze back at the way that I came, I was able to see the main Metzler organ, built from 1980-1982, with parts from an organ dating back to the 18th century. This organ is frequently used for recitals held in the church.
Enjoying the side chapels, the most interesting I discovered is dedicated to Brother Klaus, a famous Swiss patron, whose life-sized statue stands clothed in a brown monk’s habit.
While the church no longer provides an important religious life, with the adjacent monastery college being abandoned, it does provide tourists with a destination within the Alstadt and both locals and visitors with a magnificent concert venue which comes alive with the sensational acoustics.
If you are in the mood to pray, reflect or admire…check out the Jesuit Church in Lucerne, one of its architectural gems.
Efficient and far-reaching, it’s easy to go out and explore all that the country has to offer.
Having recently gotten a taste of venturing out to another city in Switzerland, I was ready for more! So…it was off to the train station to see what else I could discover.
The winner on this particular day?
Lucerne. Located only an hour from Zurich, it is an easy trip, albeit expensive, for the short time I had to spend there. The small city is known for its preserved medieval architecture, imposing mountains and beautiful Lake Lucerne.
History, architecture and nature! I couldn’t wait!
As we arrived at the modern train station, we anxiously peeked out in hopes that the blues skies that had been promised in the forecast were visible above.
No such luck.
A cool afternoon, it was quite overcast, the dim gray skies exaggerated by the dwindling light of the approaching winter season, yet, we anxiously ventured out, eager to see what the city would present.
When I had researched the Swiss city, the picture that I came across most often was of the beautiful bridges that span the River Reuss in the colorful Alstadt (Old Town).
This is what I most wanted to see and as luck would have it, they were extremely close to the station.
A quick two minute walk, past the archway (welcoming us to Lucerne) and a festive carousel brought us to the river. Just like in the pictures, here it was…the Kapellbrücke (Chapel Bridge)! I was aware that the bridge was beautiful from its exterior, yet when we set foot inside, I found out that so much more was to be discovered.
The 17th century, covered, diagonal footbridge links the Aldstadt to the Reuss River’s right bank. Destroyed by fire in 1993, it has been restored to it original beauty and is the oldest wooden, covered, truss bridge in Europe.
Named after St. Peter’s Chapel, located nearby, the bridge gives off the feeling of an ancient church, with its dark wood structure and ancient wood paneled paintings. These paintings, dating back to the 17th century, were created by local Catholic painter, Hans Heinrich Wägmann, during the Counter-Reformation. Though most of the originals, depicting events from Lucerne’s history, were destroyed in the devastating fire, about 30 were fully restored and command your full attention, sometimes requiring you to step to the side to allow those traversing the walkway to pass, while you spend a few moments studying each panel. These panels display the life and death of Lucerne’s patron saints, St. Leger and St. Maurice.
Also part of the bridge complex is the Wasserturm, or water tower, which stands proudly in the waters of the Reuss. Built about 30 years before the bridge’s construction, the tower has served as a prison, torture chamber and a municipal archive. Today, the tower houses a local artillery association and a tourist gift shop, however, it does not host visitors, except those seeking Swiss mementos.
Truly the symbol of Lucerne, I was awe-struck by the Kapellbrücke’s grand beauty, enhanced by the bright pink flowers that line its periphery. Once we crossed the bridge, assisted some beautiful young Japanese travelers with memorable photos and grabbed a quick beer in the nearby pub, it was time to head up the river to the other venerable structure which crossses Lake Lucerne’s tributary.
Linking the left and right banks of the River Reuss is the Spreuerbrücke. The Spreuerbrücke, or Spreuer Bridge, earning its name from the chaffs of wheat which were thrown in the river here, dates back to 1408 and was part of the city’s fortification. The bridge was constructed to connect the Mühlenplatz (Mill Place) on the right bank with the mills in the middle of the river.
From 1626 and for the next nine years, Kaspar Meglinger decorated the triangular panels in the bridge with 67 paintings that represent the Danse Macabre, leading everyone to understand that death is everywhere. Forty-five of the originals are still in existence today and contain the coat of arms of the donor in the lower left corner and coat of arms of the donor’s wife in the right. These paintings also contain portraits of the donors and explanations and the names of the donors.
Not the original bridge, the Spreüerbrucke was destroyed in 1566 by floodwaters but rebuilt with an added grain storehouse as the bridge head called the Herrenkeller. A small chapel can also be found in the middle of the bridge, a spot also marked with a crucifix mounted on the outside of the structure.
After crossing the Spreüerbrucke, though we wandered alongside the river, the third bridge was not to be found…the Hofbrücke, which once existed, was demolished in the 19th century.
Life in Lucerne revolves around its proximity to water as is evident by the Old Town’s location on the river’s banks. It’s easy to spend time perusing the historic homes, embellished with frescoes, that line the waterfront, browsing the watch and souvenir shops or dining at one of the many restaurants while watching joggers run by and swans glide gracefully in the clear, glacial water.
Though there was much more to explore in lovely Lucerne, I was glad that we had started with the bridges, the symbols of the city. Yet, our day wasn’t over. We had so much more to discover!
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St. Vincent de Paul was born on April 24, in 1581 in the region of Landes, France. Growing up with deeply religious beliefs, he felt the calling to the priesthood early on and was ordained at the age of 19.
Working as a chaplain for Queen Margaret de Valois, he also served as a tutor to the Gondi family. It was during this time that he realized the inequities between the rich and poor and took on the rectification of this situation as his life’s mission.
After sixty years in the priesthood, where he served the poor and suffering, St. Vincent de Paul died on September 27, 1660. Canonized only 77 years later (considered record time) by Pope Clement XII, he was considered a saint among saints and such a Catholic superstar that in 1969, Pope Paul VI added his Feast Day to the official calendar as the 27th of September.
On a brisk fall day, it was this illustrious saint that I had come in search of in the 7th arrondissement of Paris. Located only a couple of blocks from the Chapel of the Miraculous Medal, where the saint’s heart is enshrined, the Shrine of St. Vincent de Paul (not to be confused with the Church of St. Vincent de Paul in the 10th arrondissement) is located inside the Church of the Lazarists Mission and houses a wax effigy of the saint.
Entering the church, I was surprised to find something extremely different from the Chapel of the Miraculous Medal, which I had just visited. An impressive festooned interior with intricate details decorating the walls, columns and doorways was framed by a high arched ceiling enhanced with blue and gold painting and framed, gilded medallions. While my impression of the Chapel of the Miraculous Medal had been of one that was light and airy, this church was more grand and elaborate and my eyes were immediately drawn to the grand altar filled with statues. Above the tabernacle, I could see the glass reliquary and St. Vincent de Paul’s likeness displayed within.
Since I had conducted some research before my visit, I was aware of the story of his exhumation. When first unearthed, the saint’s body first appeared to be incorrupt, however, when flooding damaged the area where his body had been placed, it began to show signs of decay. His heart was removed and sent to the Chapel of the Miraculous Medal and his skeletal remains covered with wax giving him a very realistic appearance.
Following the modest story of St. Vincent de Paul, conveyed through the pictures displayed in the stained glass and a canvas by Brother Francois, I walked along the side aisles which also displayed many statues and the casket containing the remains of St. Jean-Gabriel Perboyre. The polished marble floor reflected the lighting and the beautiful blue tiled ceilings.
From my viewpoint in front of the altar, I looked upward, admiring the glass and silver reliquary, designed by Odiot, the best goldsmith of his era. I bowed my head, said a prayer and continued on throughout the remainder of the church. As I neared the exit, I turned for one last look and a movement at the reliquary caught my eye.
A person.
Thinking it must be a member of the staff, I once again prepared to depart when I noticed the person hold up their cellphone for a selfie.
There had to be a way up there.
Making my way back toward the front of the church, I began to search for the way up. Deep behind the altar, I found it…a dual stairway, on either side, leading up to the holy treasure!
An easy climb led me to the top, allowing for the veneration of the relics at an amazingly close distance, and also being able to appreciate the outstanding craftsmanship of the reliquary, the intricate statues that guard the icon and a bird’s eye view of the church.
Thankful that I had turned for that one last look…I may have missed the most important part of this unique shrine.
Missing the ability to be so near the reliquary of such an important Catholic saint is only part of the issue with the church. A simple structure that one may just stroll by while in the area due to its plain facade, it must be sought out with a purpose. It is not a structure that a person simply stumbles upon…unless you like entering random doorways…however, it is one that any person with an affinity for Catholic history should seek out. Not only a beautiful church, it is one that honors an amazing Catholic saint.
Seek out this superstar…he’s still shining bright.
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The Shrine of Saint Vincent de Paul
Address: 95 Rue de Sèvres, 75007 Paris, France
Hours: 0800-1200 and 1400-1900 (unverified)
Admission: free
Getting There: By Metro, Vaneau or Sèvres-Babylone stations. By Bus, number 39, 70 and 87.
Having associated the city with its beautiful churches, cathedrals and miracles that have occurred within the country, I truly love the peace it gives me when I visit.
Years ago, I found myself with an extra day to fill while in the city. Wandering through a part of town that I had never been to, I found the Chapel of Our Lady Miraculous Medal, tucked away on Rue de Bac, the location where the Blessed Virgin Mary appeared to Catherine Labouré in 1830.
The chapel’s location, is quite inconspicuous and I doubt that you would find it if you were not actively trying to do so. Even so, thousands of visitors make their way to the chapel each year to attend mass and purchase the medals that Our Lady requested to be created.
Dating back to 1813, the chapel was dedicated to the Sacred Heart of Jesus and located in the Hôtel de Châtillon. It was expanded in 1849 and many times in the years after its inception. The chapel we see today, was completed in 1930, however, the tabernacle, dating back to the seventeenth or eighteenth century is still as it was in 1815, coming from the building given to the Daughters of Charity in 1800.
When Catherine Labouré was a seminary sister at the mother house of the Daughters of Charity of Saint Vincent de Paul, she began having visions. In the first, Saint Vincent de Paul showed her his heart, each time in a different color; white (peace), red (fire) and black (misfortunes that would come upon Paris and the entire country). Her second vision displayed Christ presented in the Sacred Host, and then on The Feast of the Holy Trinity, He appeared as a crucified King, stripped of his adornments.
Her final vision came at the age of 24, when she received three visits from the Blessed Virgin Mary. On July 18, the Blessed Virgin requested that Confraternity of the Children of Mary be established. Mary’s second request was that a medal be created with the following invocation, “O Mary, conceived without sin, pray for us who have recourse to thee.” Following her orders, the medal was forged and since its creation, countless miracles have been attributed to the medal as well as conversions and protection for those seeking it.
Everyone knows about the miracles that occur at Lourdes, however, it has been said that more miracles have occurred through devotion to the Blessed Mother while praying with this medal. It became known as the Miraculous Medal when during the cholera epidemic in Paris, in 1832, the Sisters handed out medals and many people were unexpectedly cured and then turned their faith to God.
The first thing you notice upon entering the chapel, besides the large number of the devoted bowing their heads in prayer, is how light and airy the space is. High ceilings frame the chapel and tall columns line either side, making way for the side aisles containing the shrine of Saint Louise de Marillac, co-foundress with Saint Vincent de Paul of the Daughters of Charity and the reliquary containing the heart of Saint Vincent de Paul.
As I approached the altar, I admired the tabernacle decorated with an angel carrying a cross and its carved door depicting the nativity, crowned with a shining star. The tabernacle is flanked by two light-carrying angels and topped by a beautiful ivory crucifix. Towering above the tabernacle is the large marble statue of the Virgin with the Rays.
Another statue of Mary, the Virgin of the Globe, caught my eye, holding the world in her hands.
I walked over to inspect the aisle dedicated to Saint Vincent de Paul which contains the Altar of the Apparitions, a mosaic by Maison Maurmejean and the most important piece, the relic of the heart of Saint Vincent de Paul, which was brought to Paris from Turin during the Revolution.
Crossing over to the other aisle, I gazed upon the body of Saint Louise de Marillac, which has rested inside the chapel since 1920.
The main attraction of the chapel, however, is Catherine Labouré. Buried in the chapel in Enghien-Reuilly, the location of her death, the vault was opened at the time of her beautification and her body was found to be perfectly intact. It was transferred to the chapel and presently lies under the altar of Our Lady of the Globe in a glass coffin. Many of the faithful kneel before her, laying down their burdens and tribulations.
After a few minutes spent in prayer, I headed out into the courtyard and into the gift shop. There are many styles and sizes of the Miraculous Medal available for purchase as well as rosaries, prayer books and prayer cards.
A site of spirituality and miracles, a visit to the Chapel of Our Lady of the Miraculous Medal is a must for true believers. See the spot where these holy apparitions took place and see the person responsible for the medal. Purchase one, wear it and share it with other faithfuls.
The Miraculous Medal Prayer
O Virgin Mother of God, Mary Immaculate, We dedicate and consecrate ourselves to you under the title of Our Lady of the Miraculous Medal. May this Medal be for each one of us a sure sign of your affection for us and a constant reminder of our duties toward you. Ever while wearing it, may we be blessed by your loving protection and preserved in the grace of your Son. O Most Powerful Virgin, Mother of Our Savior, keep us close to you every moment of our lives. Obtain for us, your children, the grace of a happy death; so that in union with you, we may enjoy the bliss of Heaven forever. Amen.
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