Having been away from work for a while, due to the Covid restrictions, I was desperately craving different scenery. As a flight attendant, I am used to spending my weekends in some far away city, dining in the piazzas, walking the streets and soaking up the culture.
Deciding to tackle some local attractions, I headed over to Maymont park to walk around for some sunshine, fresh air and exercise. While I had visited this park on many occasions in the past, I had forgotten how some parts could transport me to other locales.
One of Richmond’s and the state’s greatest treasures, the 100 acre park was the home of millionaires James and Sallie Dooley at the turn of the century. The couple lived on this land from 1893 until 1925 in their Romanesque mansion, surrounded by magnificent gardens and landscapes.
My fascination with James and Sallie Dooley, began during the first time that I visited their mansion many years ago. Why? My maiden name is Dooley and as I walked around their beautiful home, it was fun to imagine that they were distant relatives of mine and I was visiting their homestead. This time around, I was able to walk around the exterior of their mansion, but unfortunately it was not open to visitors. The periphery, however, is worthy of inspection, especially for architecture buffs like me! It is a stunning structure and surrounded by some beautiful sculptural pieces, the family mausoleum and the Dooley garage and stable, which features antique buggies and carriages.
Mausoleum
Dooley Garage and Stable
Heading down the hill, past the fountain court and stone barn, I began to feel as if I had departed my home country and landed in Italy. Though the Dooleys had commissioned English pastoral gardens around their home, this part of their estate, was more formal, featuring stonework, statuary, gazebos, fountains and beautiful flowers, shrubs and trees. This classical style, developed in the 15th and 16th century can be spotted throughout Italy and more specifically at Villa Torlonia, near Rome.
Fountain CourtStone Barn
A long pergola stretches along the northern edge of the garden and the garden is laid out in many levels below. At this point, the Dooleys could even spy the mighty James River out in the distance when it was first constructed. From this overlook stretches a stunning cascading fountain which feeds into a waterfall. There is a beautiful classical gazebo, imported from Italy, and I was told that it is quite lovely in the spring when surrounded by the blossoming peonies.
Making my way down the steps of the cascading fountain, I was disappointed to find that it was not in operation, but at the end, I was excited to glance upward at its magnificence and further down the path, find the entrance to the Japanese gardens.
The Japanese gardens have always been my favorite and the site of many picnics with my children during their younger days. When I am there, I truly feel as though I am in Japan.
Its nice to take a stroll on the gravel paths around the pond and admire the statuary, grotto and Japanese structures that rest near or over the water. I still fondly remember my boys jumping from stone to stone on the pathway across the pond and running across the wooden bridge near the base of the waterfall.
Exiting the gardens, I headed toward the part of the park where the wild animals are housed. Sometimes the black bear is not visible, but on this day, he was pacing back and forth along the wall and I was able to see him quite well. The Raptors and Bobcat exhibits were closed off due to spacing requirements so I continued along the path toward the Children’s Farm.
The horses and cows were grazing in the pastures and the vegetable garden was in full bloom. The sheep were out in their yard and I remembered how much my children loved to go to the petting zoo. The bison, my personal favorites, however, were nowhere to be seen within their enclosure.
The Robins Nature Center was not open on the day that I was here, but I thought back to the field trips in which we visited this facility. There are many interesting exhibits which highlight animals of the James River and Chesapeake Bay. One of the featured favorites are the otters, which reside in their own beaver lodge. The 30,000 gallon aquariums showcase a great number of aquatic animals which reside in the waters of the state. Over 45,000 guests visit the center annually, including tens of thousands of local students.
Robins Nature Center
As I made my way, full circle, back to my starting point, I relished the beauty around me…small creeks, large trees and rolling hills. It must have been a spectacular place for the Dooleys to call home and truly a special gift for them to bequeath to the city of Richmond.
Though the admission price is only suggested and visitors can enter the park freely, remember the generosity of the Dooleys and give back to the city to help maintain what the Dooleys gave to the city.
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Hours: Grounds and Gardens, April to September, 1000-1900, October to March, 1000-1700. Farm and Wildlife habitat, 1000-1700. The Robins Nature Center, Saturday-Sunday, 1000-1700. Carriage Collection, Tuesday-Sunday, 1200-1700. Maymont Mansion, temporarily closed.
With thirty-eight state parks and nineteen national park service sites, Virginia is the place to be if you want to see the great outdoors! From coastal regions on the east and mountains on the west, there is something for everyone.
A popular slogan advertises that Virginia Is For Lovers and while that may be true, with all of these outdoor opportunities, I really think that Virginia Is For Nature Lovers!
During the cooler Fall months, I love to head to the mountains for a little camping and hiking. The Blue Ridge mountains are one of my favorite places with numerous campsites and over forty-nine marked trails with skill levels from easy to strenuous, including the renowned Appalachian Trail stretching from Georgia to Maine.
Sitting around on a beautiful Sunday morning, I realized that the outdoors was beckoning. Requesting recommendations from my son, an avid hiker, gave me the trail name, Humpback Rocks.
Hopping on the highway, we enjoyed the light traffic and sunny weather as we drove from Richmond past Charlottesville. Finally exiting, we drove along the Blue Ridge Parkway toward the Visitor’s Center parking lot. Many people park in the lot at the trailhead or along the road near that lot, however, even though the Visitor Center and its museum exhibits about mountain life were closed, I wanted to walk through the historic farm which lies between the Visitor Center and the trailheads.
Visitor’s Center
A wide, gravel trail took us amidst some log cabin structures, including a house, storage shed/barn and wellhouse. These were not open to visitors, however, you could see into the shed/barn if you are interested in its construction. The trail is only a quarter mile and reminiscent of an 1890’s mountain farm. During the summer months you can find costumed guides giving demonstrations on the way of Appalachian mountain life at the turn of the 20th century.
Crossing the road, we followed others to the second parking lot where the trailheads began. Noticing two trails, we had to first make a phone call to my son to see which one was correct. Well…they both were. One would take us the long way around, on the Humpback Rocks Loop and the other to Humpback Rocks, more strenuous but only a short one-mile.
Don’t let that one-mile fool you.
The majority of the hike was uphill on the blue-blazed trail. Since having had given up my gym membership during the past few months, I found myself a little slow and breathing heavy, so we opted to take it in small sections, resting after each. The second half of the hike was the hardest with a 700-foot climb, zig-zagging back and forth, climbing over slippery rocks, large tree roots and muddy areas. As difficult as it was, we plodded on until finally, we heard many voices and reached a rocky area. Joining these other climbers onto Humpback Rocks, we were rewarded with spectacular views of the Rockfish and Shenandoah Valleys.
Grabbing a seat on an interior flattened area we enjoyed our water and snacks while basking in the beauty below and the warmth of the afternoon’s favorable temperatures. I must admit, however, being up that high was a bit disconcerting and as tempting as it was to get near the edge for that Instagram-worthy selfie, we both kept our distance.
Finally, we decided that our shaky legs had recovered enough to make the trip back down, which was considerably a bit easier. We decided that rewards were due for all of this effort!
Checking the internet, we discovered that there were many local breweries a short drive away. Now this was my idea of a good day…exercise followed by a good craft beer!
Settling on Blue Mountain Brewery, we arrived to find the extensive outdoor seating almost to capacity. Grabbing a spot at one of the umbrella-covered picnic tables, we quickly scanned the beer menu to find a thirst-quenching selection. Having a hard time making a decision, I decided on eight!
Okay, so it was eight tiny beers…a flight…but it gave me an incredible overview of the offerings at this particular brewery. Resting our weary legs, we were reveling in the picturesque scenery around us and enjoying our libations so much that we decided to stay and have dinner.
Though we didn’t have this plan when we first awakened during that morning, I’m glad that we decided to make the drive and give it ago. It was worth every step and every drop!
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Address: Blue Ridge Parkway, Lyndhurst, Virginia 22952
Hours: 24 hours, daily. Blue Ridge Parkway is closed during the winter, however, you may park outside the gates and hike in. From the gates, it is a eleven mile round trip.
Admission: free
Getting There: From Charlottesville, take Interstate 64 West to exit 99, following signs to the Parkway.
More than 100,000 casualties occurred within a twenty mile radius of Fredericksburg during Civil War battles. As a result, more than 15,000 Union soldiers found their final resting place in the Fredericksburg National Cemetery.
After four major battles, Fredericksburg, Chancellorsville, Wilderness, and Spotsylvania Court House, the remains of deceased Union and Confederate soldiers were buried in shallow, often unmarked graves around the battlefields. It was deemed necessary that a national cemetery at Fredericksburg be established to provide a proper burial site for these soldiers.
The Fredericksburg National Cemetery, part of the Fredericksburg and Spotsylvania Country Battlefields Memorial National Military Park is located southwest of the city’s historic downtown in Marye’s Heights, a Confederate stronghold during the Battle of Fredericksburg. It was constructed in 1866 and is one of fourteen national cemeteries managed by the National Park Service.
Parking near the Visitor’s Center at the Fredericksburg and Spotsylvania National Military Park, we found it to be closed and its exterior and surroundings under construction. Thinking that we would take a walk on the trail that lead from this location, we ducked into the Museum Shop to obtain a map. Finding the trail to be extensive and because it was the end of the day, we decided to take a walk through the cemetery instead.
Following the natural contour of the landscape, we walked uphill, noting some of the monuments dedicated to Union soldiers and officers such as the Fifth Corps Monument, which honors the service of the corps and the Monument to Colonel Joseph Moesch, commemorating the officer who was killed while leading his regiment of 83rd New York Volunteers in the Battle of Wilderness. In the center of the cemetery, we found the Humphrey’s Division Monument, surrounded by upright cannons. This monument honors the men under General Humphrey that led an unsuccessful attack on Confederate troops holding Marye’s Heights. Over 1,000 soldiers were killed or wounded in this engagement.
Fifth Corps Monument
Monument to Colonel Joseph Moesch
Monument to the 127th Regiment of the Pennsylvania Volunteer InfantryHumphrey’s Division MonumentHumphrey’s Division Monument
Other small markers were scattered throughout the cemetery. Though bearing no names, they offered a longer number followed by another smaller number. While over 15,000 soldiers are interred here, only 2,473 were identified and these are the graves of the unknown. The upper number identifies the plot, while the second number identifies the number of soldiers buried in that plot. The soldiers that were identified are buried in individual graves, marked with a rounded headstone bearing the soldier’s name and state.
The cemetery is also the final resting place for an additional three hundred veterans of the Spanish-American War, World War I and World War II.
Though no music can be heard during our visit, the beat of a poem surrounded us. Near the 127th Pennsylvania Volunteer Monument, and throughout the cemetery, we noticed plaques containing verses from Theordore O’Hara’s, “The Bivouac of the Dead” (1847), which commemorated the American dead at the Battle of Buena Vista, from the Mexican-American War.
The muffled drum’s sad roll has beat The soldier’s last Tattoo; No more on life’s parade shall meet That brave and fallen few. On fame’s eternal camping ground Their silent tents to spread, And glory guards, with solemn round The bivouac of the dead. No rumor of the foe’s advance Now swells upon the wind; Nor troubled thought at midnight haunts Of loved ones left behind; No vision of the morrow’s strife The warrior’s dreams alarms; No braying horn or screaming fife At dawn shall call to arms. Rest on, embalmed and sainted dead, Dear as the blood ye gave, No impious footstep here shall tread The herbage of your grave.
A powerful testament to those who gave their lives during these tumultuous times.
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Most Americans know that our nation’s first President was George Washington and that his residence, Mount Vernon, is located south of Washington D.C., on the banks of the Potomac River.
Having visited Mount Vernon with my children on various school field trips, I was intrigued with the how beautiful the estate and its grounds were and although I was aware that this was Washington’s home, I never thought about how long he lived there. Although he and his wife Martha made it their home until his death, I guess I always assumed that he also grew up there.
Recently, when visiting Fredericksburg, I found myself on Kings Highway. Noticing a historical sign directing visitors to George Washington’s boyhood home, I initially dismissed it assuming it was Mount Vernon. When I happened to see another sign directing me to the entrance, I realized that I was not near Mount Vernon and this was something entirely different.
This was Ferry Farm.
Located on the banks of the Rappahannock River, Ferry Farm, as it was later named, was George Washington’s home from the age of six years until his twenties. The Washington family purchased the farm in 1738 and it was here where George Washington spent his formative years and the place where most people believe he chopped down the infamous cherry tree.
Visitor’s Center
Purchasing a ticket, I walked in the garden for a few minutes before heading out to the area where the replica of the home stands. During my tour, learned that in 1740, the Washington family home was destroyed by fire, however, during excavations in 2008, archaeologists uncovered remains that led them to realize that this was the location of the family home. In 2015, the George Washington Foundation began constructing a replica on the site of the original building and it was opened to the public in 2018.
Path from Visitor’s Center to House
Surveyor’s Shed
Though no one knows what the farm was called during the years that the Washington family occupied the home, it later came to be known as Ferry Farm, because of the free ferry (not owned by the family) that crossed the river on the family’s land.
Replica of the Washington family home
After an introduction by the tour guide, we were led through the home which was built using eighteenth century building techniques. The tour which took us through the first floor, introduced us to reproductions of the furniture and objects listed in George’s father, Augustine Washington’s, probate inventory when he died in 1743. Unlike many other historical tours, because these are all reproductions, we were encouraged to interact with the objects while being regaled with stories about the family’s life.
Once the tour was complete, I ventured outside and down to the river to where the ferry once departed the banks of the river to make its crossing. From here, the view of the home sitting on the hill, was breathtaking and you could almost imagine a young George and his siblings running down the steep slope or sledding down during the winter!
Making my way back up the stairs, I spotted a tent, situated not far from the house. Archaeologists were excavating another site on the property and I was told that there have been prehistoric artifacts such as spear points, stone axes and numerous other tools tied to the American Indians that once made their home on the land found here. During the Civil War in 1862, the areas near the farm were the site of skirmishes between Confederate and Union armies. The farm was used by Union soldiers as a campground and although much of the farm was destroyed, a surveyor’s shed was constructed and is one on the only remaining structures from this time frame that can be seen today. In addition, archaeologists have found many items from the Civil War occupation that can be seen in the museum at the front of the property such as bullets, ink bottles, button and medallions from uniforms. Other interesting artifacts that can be inspected are 18th century wig hair curlers. The Georgian-style inspired museum and archaeological lab also houses the ticket office/visitor’s center and was not open for visitation.
Since Ferry Farm has only been open since 2018 and a new historical attraction, I do think that it is worth returning at a later date. A new visitor’s center is in the works and every year, visitors come for the celebration of Washington’s birthday. While everyone knows the cherry tree story, which is believed to have happened here, it is also claimed to be the site where George Washington skipped a silver dollar across the Rappahannock River. The river was wider then than it is today, making it a much harder feat, but all who attend are invited to recreate this event.
Wonder if there will be any tree chopping competitions too?
George Washington not only led an interesting adult life, but an interesting younger one as well.
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One of the things that Covid has taught us is that cocktails are always welcome, no matter what is going on in the world.
Beer, wine and spirits have helped people pass their time during their lockdowns, especially during virtual happy hours.
Beer, wine and spirits have helped people to forget about their troubles.
Beer, wine and spirits sales are through the roof!
Recently, I was thinking of things to do and while I have taken part in many a virtual happy hour, I was ready to get out of the house and see something different. Perusing the internet one day, I came across a local distillery that offers tours…maybe Google pointed me in that direction since I had been placing an order with a local beer and wine store and they thought I was the perfect candidate…but even though I prefer beer and would rather go to a craft brewery, I thought it would be fun and educational.
The A. Smith Bowman Distillery, located in Fredericksburg, Virginia, got its start in Fairfax County in 1927 as a dairy and granary. A. Smith Bowman realized that his fields were producing an abundance of grain and did not want to see it go to waste. In 1934, he built a distillery with the help of his two sons and their first product, “Virginia Gentleman” was well received. His distilling business was born.
Until the 1950’s, Mr. Bowman was the sole producer of legal whiskey in Virginia and he has since shifted gears, moving to Fredericksburg and producing handcrafted small batches and experimental editions.
Now, I will admit, I am not partial to whiskey, but taking part in a free tour concluding with free samples sounded like a great way to get myself out of the house. Enticing two of my friends to make the forty-five minute trip was easy and we signed up for a morning tour, discovering when we arrived that we were the only participants for that particular time slot. Perfect for social distancing!
Our guide led us through the great room, maintaining our six feet, showing us Mr. Bowman’s original desk, and explaining the different varieties produced in the distillery. The production room was quite interesting with the Vendome Copper & Brass Works stills, quiet for the time being which made it easy to learn from our guide how each plays a part in making the spirits. We walked through the assembly line area which was also taking a break, however, I think it would be quite interesting to see it at work. Most captivating, however, was the storage facility filled with thousands of barrels. There, we were shown the numbering system which allows team members to pull the barrels that have been properly aged and are ready for distribution.
Finally, taken back to the great room, we headed to the bar where we were allowed to pick four products to sample, including bourbon, vodka, gin and rum. There were some that were more pleasing to each of our palates, however, it was easy to discern why the A. Smith Bowman Distillery has won the awards of “World’s Best Bourbon” at the World Whiskies Awards in both 2016 and 2017 among many others.
As we finished our tasting, we were able to browse the gift shop area where various goods such as bourbon-inspired drinkware, apparel, coffee, soaps, salsa, barbeque, steak and chocolate sauces…and of course, spirits…are available for purchase.
The distillery sits on impeccable grounds, bordered by Deep Run creek and there are many historical sites in Fredericksburg to visit once your tour has been completed.
The A. Smith Bowman Distillery tour was an extremely interesting way to spend an hour or so and we learned a great deal about something none of us were familiar with. Plus, we got to sample some award winning spirits and walked away with some of our Christmas shopping completed. Much better than virtual happy hour!
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There is just something about being surrounded by water, feeling the ocean breeze flowing through your hair and the sand between your toes!
Having visited many islands in my life and Florida on many occasions, Sanibel Island had somehow escaped me, although I had spent much time in the southern part of the state. I had always heard that it was the Shelling Capitol of the World and I was curious to see what this meant. Would the shells be so plentiful that they would pave a path along the beaches?
After leaving Key West and driving to the mainland, my husband and I decided that we needed to head to the western part of the state and check it out for ourselves. Finding our way to the Sanibel Inn, we checked in and took a quick walk to the beach. The weather wasn’t cooperating at the moment, so our stay was short, but just long enough to see how many shells were embedded in the sand at the top of the beach near the hotel’s path. Grabbing a few, I took them back to the room and gave them a quick washing. Seeing what I had motivated me to wake up early the next morning for an early scavenging.
As dim daylight filtered through the drawn curtains, my alarm went off. Swinging my legs over the side of the bed and heading to the window, I was a bit dismayed to find that while there was daylight, there was no sunlight. In fact, the sky was dark and a light drizzle was falling.
Well, it might not be tanning weather, but I had brought a hat and a raincoat.
Walking along the narrow beach, I collected shell after shell. Canvasing every square inch, I collected many similar ones with ideas for craft projects swimming around in my head. My bag was full when I headed back inside our hotel and the sun was finally starting to show its face. It was a good day…sand, shells and sun!
Before heading back to the beach for some swimming and tanning, we decided to take a quick drive to see what the twelve mile island had to offer.
Driving from one end to the other, we admired the beautiful homes that lined the shores in Captiva and then eventually found our way to the Sanibel Lighthouse at the eastern end of the island.
The Sanibel Island Lighthouse park encompasses the entire tip of the island. Attracting visitors for the wide array of activities is offers, we found the parking lots packed with vehicles for those visiting the beach, the fishing pier and of course, the lighthouse.
Having just been to the lighthouse in Key West, it was interesting to see the differences between the two. Though visitors are allowed around the historic lighthouse, none are allowed to climb the 127 steps to the top of the 98 foot structure, like we were in Key West.
Much like the Key West structure, the lighthouse was built in the 1800s by settlers of the island. First lit on August 20th, 1884 with kerosene oil, the lighthouse keeper, Dudley Richardson, the keeper from 1884 until 1892, had to get to the top of the lighthouse by walking up an external spiral staircase. Various other keepers followed Richardson and lived on the premises in the structures you can still see today.
In 1949, the job was discontinued and the lighthouse became automated. The lighthouse continued its duty until 1972 when the Coast Guard proposed that it be decommissioned. The mariners in the area and the residents, however, opposed and halted the idea. In 1982, the buildings on the premises were offered to Sanibel residents to live in for free in exchange for its maintenance. In 2004, the Coast Guard gave the lighthouse to the City of Sanibel and it was restored in 2013.
It was nice to walk around the premises, although the museum was not open, and we ventured out to the crowded beach area. We also took a walk on the pier and watched the fisherman and the boats that passed nearby.
Finally, we headed back to our little beach, which had become smaller with the incoming tide, and relaxed while watching the large number of birds that come to enjoy the clear waters.
And of course, I grabbed a few more shells!
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If you have ever visited Williamsburg, Virginia, you know that there are many historical attractions.
Many years ago, while on a school field trip to Jamestown, I spotted something captivating, just off of the exit ramp from the highway…giant heads depicting our past American Presidents. It was President’s Park, an attraction that was open from 2004 until 2010.
Making a mental note to take my children one day, it was filed away with my lists of groceries, household to-do details and information about far away lands that I wanted to see. It wasn’t until we were struck by a pandemic and I could no longer travel throughout the world, and even to some other states, that I began researching nearby attractions to occupy my time while away from work. President’s Park quickly moved to the top of my must-visit list…right behind Gettysburg. As I perused the internet, however, I could not find any current information about the park.
After a bit of digging, I learned that due to lack of interest, this place closed, leaving the giant heads to succumb to neglect and decay. After selling the property, the owner wanted the heads destroyed, however, Howard Hankins, who had helped to construct the park, had the forty-three heads, which measure between 18 and 20 feet high, moved to his family farm in nearby Croaker, Virginia. They now stand neglected in a field, on the site of his industrial recycling facility, and are not presently open to the public. There are plans, however, to restore these mighty busts and recreate a museum with the assistance of the Smithsonian in the future.
What a disapointment!
A few more clicks on the internet, however, led me to find John Plaschal, a local photographer who plans photographic events (with the permission of the owners) at historic locations that are not ordinarily open to the public. As if fate had led me in this direction, I learned that he was planning a ticketed event at the farm where the presidential heads are located.
I quickly purchased my ticket and made plans, rain or shine, to be there.
That afternoon, with darkened skies and light rain falling, I drove the hour’s distance to Croaker and headed down a long dirt road, where I spotted the family farm. Parking my car, I headed to the tent, presented my ticket and received a map detailing the presentation of the statues.
Thanking my lucky stars that I had had the good sense to wear rain boots, I traipsed down the muddy road, following another photographer, and praying that the light rain would continue to diminish.
Rounding a bend in the road, I took a sudden breath inward as I spotted most of the statues, in five, uneven rounded lines, to my left.
Having three hours to capture these decaying and crumbling monoliths, I decided to make my way to the back line and work my way down to the far end first and then tackle the front lines and the three other statues that stood off to the side near the road.
The first president I encountered was John Adams. Slipping and sliding down a muddy hill, I found myself eyeing his sly grin which was undoubtedly suppressing his laughter at the many tourists who fall right before his eyes on the sodden slope (literally!). Standing in the mud, I glanced ahead at the line of huge heads awaiting my inspection and I plodded on.
George Bush, John Q. Adams, Martin Van Buren, Millard Fillmore…
This is where it began to get interesting…and not just my scrutiny of the statues.
Remember how I said that I was glad I wore rainboots?
Camera pointed high, I was not focused on the ground. Suddenly, I felt water seeping onto my socks. Looking down, I realized that not only the ground was wet, it was flooded and I had stepped in water higher than my short boots. I guess I should have worn my tall ones!
Looking forward, I realized that from James Madison onward, the ground was covered with standing water. I realized that I could skip this section, which is why other visitors were not around, or keep going. Oh well, wet feet are wet feet!
Pulling up each leg of my yoga pants as high as I could, I merged onward, with water edging up to my kneecaps. As I committed each statue digitally and swatted the occasional mosquito and prayed that I would not encounter any snakes.
James Madison, Thomas Jefferson, James Monroe, Bill Clinton, Gerald Ford, William H. Harrison. As I rounded James K. Polk’s statue, I climbed up a hill at the base of his head and took in the rear view from high above.
Before tackling the middle and forward lines, I ventured off to inspect George Washington, Andrew Jackson and Abraham Lincoln. These statues were a bit removed from the others and obviously attracted a great deal more attention. While I admired Andrew Jackson’s smooth façade (the only statue to have been fully restored), I walked around to the rear of Abraham Lincoln. Most of the statues had considerable holes in their heads, as this is how the crane was able to secure the statues and move them, but on old Abe, it was a bit disconcerting, knowing his demise.
Making my way back to the other statues, I encountered Zachary Taylor, John Tyler and Franklin Pierce, then braved the waters that lapped at Rutherford Hayes, James Garfield, Grover Cleveland, William McKinley, Calvin Coolidge, Richard Nixon, Dwight Eisenhower and Warren G. Harding. It was amazing to gaze up at these stunning pieces of artwork and discover the thought and detail that was used by the artist, David Adickes, in their creation.
The front three rows were the easiest to survey and the driest. It was here that I saw some of our most recent Presidents, Ronald Reagan, John Kennedy, Jimmy Carter, and George W. Bush. It was Woodrow Wilson and Theodore Roosevelt who commanded the crowd’s attention in the forefront, however, both in direct contrast of each other. Wilson’s decaying face appeared as one of a man who had lived a hard life, while Roosevelt’s stoic pose was relatively almost untouched.
While it had stopped raining halfway through my tour, the dim skies lent to the occasion of these statues’ dark days, alone in a deserted field. Glancing around at the crowd that had come out to see them, it is a wonder how President’s Park never garnered enough attention to remain afloat during the years that it was open. Maybe it was a lack of advertisement or just that fact that there are so many other attractions in the Williamsburg area. Maybe people today are more infatuated with things that are not so easy to come by. Or maybe there are a lot of photographers like me that find the beauty in the not-so-beautiful.
Today, these abandoned statues have attracted a great deal of attention from visitors worldwide, so much so, that John Plaschal’s monthly and bi-monthly events are often sold out and guests come from many parts far and away. One day, Mr. Hankins may have them restored to their former glory and available to all who want to experience their original artistry, however, for now, put on your rainboots and try to get a ticket!
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There are many architectural highlights that visitors must check out while in Key West.
Hemingway House, Truman’s Little White House, Key West Lighthouse…just to name a few.
While these are amazing attractions, one of the best things to do is set out on foot and discover all of the small historic sites that are scattered throughout the city. As my husband and I made our way throughout the island, we encountered many homes, theaters, bars, churches, boats, gardens and other structures that give Key West its charm and style.
Shopping
You can start emptying your pocketbook in Mallory Square. There are a great many souvenir shops located here as well as local vendors, street performers and live music. The Key West Aquarium is positioned here and it is the starting point for the Old Town Trolley Tours. If setting out on foot is not your forte, then hop on board the trolley and see the city! If you do decide to take your own walking tour, make sure to watch out for the markers on some of the historic sites. You can call the number listed at the bottom of the marker for free audio description.
Restaurants and Bars
Just around the corner from Mallory Square your will find El Meson De Pepe restaurant. While the Cuban food was good, what I enjoyed most was the interior. The restaurant is filled with murals and art by Mario Sanchez, information on author Jose Marti and even an antique airplane hanging above diners! Since I had been to Cuba a few months prior, it felt very familiar and comfortable.
Sloppy Joe’s Bar and Restaurant is a favorite on Duval Street. Touted as a Key West tradition, it is usually filled with revelers until the early hours of the morning. Because of Covid restrictions, it was extremely quiet while we were visiting as was many of the numerous bars and restaurants that line the famed street. However, we have been there on other visits and it is one of the highlights if partying is your thing!
Churches
The Basilica of St. Mary Star of the Sea was one of the churches that I had marked high on my to-do list while in Key West. Adjacent to the Convent of Mary Immaculate, built by the Sisters of the Holy Names of Jesus and Mary in 1878, the church dates back to 1905. The church is a single nave structure and decorated quite simply with touches of gold and light blue, paying homage to the sea. There is a beautiful stained glass window located above the altar and some nice sculptures scattered throughout. Since the church is not air conditioned, the many sets of double doors that line each side of the church are opened for the comfort of the parishioners.
As we walked down Duval Street, we encountered St. Paul’s Episcopal Church. Though we only were able to admire the structure from the outside, we did learn that this church was preceded by three others on this historic site. The first and third was destroyed by hurricanes in 1846 and 1909 and the second was devastated by the Great Fire of 1886. This church was completed in 1919 and designed to stand the test of time and nature.
Historical Homes
On many of Key West’s main and side streets, you can find beautiful, historic homes of great significance. Whitehead Street boasts the Philip L. Cosgrove House, dating back to 1872. This house once belonged to Captain Philip L. Cosgrove, Sr. who commanded the U.S. lighthouse tender Mangrove, the first rescue ship to aid victims of the 1898 explosion of the U.S.S. Maine in Havana harbor. Incorporating the former house of federal judge James Locke, the house was expanded to two and a half stories in the Greek Revival style.
A few steps away from the Cosgrove House is the William Lowe Delaney/Theodore Holtsberg House which has a long line of owners dating back to 1844. The first owner, Benjamin Sawyer, built the first house on the property for his family and also used the structure for Key West’s port business until the completion of the Customs House. The next owner, Deputy Custom Collector William Lowe Delaney bought the property from Sawyer’s widow and built the house that stands today, a two story, Queen Anne revival with an asymmetrical floor plan. The home was transferred to Lavinia Artolozaga in 1918 upon Delaney’s death, and then again in 1925 to Romanian immigrant Theodore Holtsbert, one of the island’s first Jewish immigrants. Today, the home is part of the Banyan resort.
At the head of Whitehead Street is the Audubon House and Tropical Gardens. The house was built in 1830 by Captain John H. Geiger, pilot and master wrecker. The house was dedicated in 1960 by Mitchell Wolfson, to act as public museum to be named Audubon House commemorating John James Audubon’s visit to the island in 1832 to study the key’s birds.
Alexander Cruz/Julia Gardner House is located on the corner of Eaton and Whitehead Streets. A three story cigar factory was built on the site in 1889 by the Cruz Brothers, Andres, Alexander and Jose. Acting as a business and residence for the family the cigar factory was then bought by Alexander in 1900 where he then erected a two and a half story Neoclassical home in 1904. Fourteen years later, Julia Gardner, daughter of prominent land owner Richard Henry Albury, purchased the residence and lived there for thirty years.
On Duval Street, the Martin Hellings House was constructed in 1892 by Captain Martin L. Hellings and is one of only a few homes that was not built during the Civil War. Hellings, accepted the position of cable manager of the International Ocean Telegraph Company in Key West, an important position as telegraphs were the means of rapid long distance communication. Upon his death in 1908, the house was converted into offices and then purchased by the Key West Woman’s Club which later converted it into a public library.
Government Buildings and Museums
One of the most beautiful landmarks in Key West is located on Duval street. Founded in 1871 by Cuban exiles as an educational, civic and patriotic center, the multi-purpose facility serves as a museum, library, art gallery, theater and school. The famed Jose Marti united the exile community in 1892 and affectionately referred to the San Carlos as “La Casa Cuba”.
On Simonton, between Eaton and Caroline Streets, you can find the Federal Courthouse, which also houses the Social Security Administration and U.S. District Court. The building, as evidenced by the wording on the face of the building, acted as the Customs House.
On Front Street, you can find the Key West Museum of Art and History at the Custom House, built in 1891, which also acted as the island’s custom office, postal service and district courts. This four story construction was built in the Romanesque style and was the site of many significant historical events. In later years, it was transferred to the United States Navy and then abandoned for almost twenty years. It was purchased by the State of Florida in 1991 and leased to the Key West Art and Historical Society for use as a museum. Visitors can now experience two floors of exhibitions which tell the tale of Key West’s history, art and people.
The Monroe County Courthouse, located on Fleming Street, was completed in 1890 in a traditional county courthouse style and features a 100 foot tall clock tower that can be seen from almost any part of the island. Make sure to check out the massive Kapok (or Ceilba tree), located in front of the courthouse.
The Southernmost House holds the distinction of being (yes, you guessed it) the southernmost house in the United States. The house is located near the Southernmost Point attraction and although it acts as a hotel, it also acts as a museum with displays of collections of important and interesting documents, many signed by presidents of the United States, including John F. Kennedy’s inaugural address. Even if you don’t have time to visit the museum, take the time to inspect this impressive Queen Anne Victorian architectural gem.
If you are a maritime enthusiast, you can visit the U.S. Coast Guard Cutter Ingham Maritime Museum, on the waterfront near Fort Zachary Taylor. The museum ship served during WWII and Vietnam and is the most decorated ship in the United States service. It was the last American Warship afloat to have sunk a German U-Boat and you can learn about its illustrious history in its exhibit room. We took a quick picture in front of the cutter, however, we planned to return at the end of the day on Friday or Saturday…this ship is known for being one of the best places to view the beautiful Key West sunsets…and it serves wine and beer!
Other Historic Structures and Attractions
If you are an Ernest Hemingway fan, of course, you would visit his former home. If that leaves you wanting more, take a walk on Simonton Street and check out the Old Trev-more Hotel where Hemingway and his wife stayed in 1928. It was here where he penned Farewell to Arms from his second story room. In 1978, the hotel was converted to a private residence and renamed Casa Antigua.
There are two prominent art-deco style theaters in the historic district of Key West. The Key West Theater, originally built in 1848 as the First Baptist Church of Key West, has also operated as a dance club and concert venue. Today, it now operates as a performing arts center.
Further down Eaton Street is Tropic Cinema. Of the two, this is the one to take a moment to see. Showing independent movies on four screens, this cinema’s exterior is beautifully styled with neon signs and a statue of Marilyn Monroe standing over a vent, dress blowing surrounded by a sidewalk interspersed with stars.
Finally, at the end of your days (if you still have the stamina), venture down to the Historic Seaport Harbor Walk where you can have drinks and dinner, gaze (wistfully) at the beautiful boats, people watch and then wander over to nearby Sunset Pier to watch the awesome sunsets that grace Key West’s skies on most evenings.
The style of Key West, both natural and man made, can’t be beat!
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How do you combine history with a day at the beach?
In Key West, you can take a boat tour to the Dry Tortugas. On this island, seventy miles west of Key West, visitors can tour Fort Jefferson, bask in the sun and snorkel the clear waters of the Caribbean. A long ferry ride for a short time on the island? Surely there must be a better way!
Fort Zachary Taylor State Park on the southern part of the Key West, also offers a historic fort and a beach.
Built in the mid-1800s, Fort Zachary Taylor was one of three strongholds built to defend the southeastern United States coastline. Completed in 1866, it played significant roles in both the Civil War and the Spanish-American War and played a key role in guarding the harbor of Key West.
The fort, built by Irish brick masons, is two and a half stories tall and forms a trapezoid. Towering over fifty feet about the water, it walls are five feet thick. Back in its heyday, the fort housed 198 cannons and 450 men.
Only a few cannons (and none of the men) are in existence today, but we were able to walk along the top of the walls, enjoying the ocean views and in the inner areas where the remaining cannons are housed. There are multiple displays detailing life in the fort and ammunitions in the areas which once housed the barracks and if you are lucky, you might spy one of the iguanas that call the fort home.
After we had made our way throughout the historic structure, we exited the gates and took the Tropical Hammock Trail leading to the Fort Zachary Taylor State Park beach, passing the remains of the old Blacksmith Shop along the way.
Our walk wasn’t a long one and we found a rocky beach edged with calm waters and palm trees.
After we secured two chairs and an umbrella, it was time for some relaxation. The beach was decent, however, paying more for two chairs and an umbrella than we had in the Greek Isles, was a bit surprising. In addition, we were also glad to have brought snacks as the concession stand’s pricing was on the high side. As far as a refreshing swim was concerned, the water was dark and cloudy and extremely warm. Taking some time to relax together and get some sun seemed to be the only benefit of our visit.
So, while we enjoyed the fort and beach’s close proximity to the other attractions in Key West, what we expected was not what we got. I had seen the pictures of Fort Jefferson in the Dry Tortugas and maybe that skewed my perception of what we would be experiencing in Key West. Though I enjoyed the fort I felt we were a bit short-changed on the beach side.
Next time, I think I’m paying for that long ride to the Dry Tortugas!
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Address: 601 Howard England Way, Key West FL 33040
Hours: 0800-sundown, daily
Admission: $6.00 per vehicle (2-8 people). Pedestrians, bicyclists, extra passengers, passengers in vehicle with holder of Annual Individual Entrance Pass (Monroe County surcharge included in this price), $2.50. Single-occupant vehicle or motorcycle (Monroe County surcharge included in this price), $4.50.
Beach Amenities: Two chairs and umbrella, $30.00. Concessions and watersport rentals vary.
Having visited lighthouses in Ghana, Cuba and the Outer Banks of North Carolina, I know what great views can be had from the top.
When I spotted the Key West Lighthouse while we were visiting the Hemingway House from the upper terrace, I knew that a long winding staircase was in my future.
The next morning.
My husband’s future? Not really.
As we walked down the street in the early morning heat, he decided to duck into a small restaurant and enjoy a cold drink. Seeing the island from a bird’s eye view and exerting a great deal of energy first thing in the morning did not seem all that enticing when all he wanted to do was lay on a beach.
Off I went, on my own, anxious to see if there was anything that made this particular lighthouse, well…particular.
As I stood at the bottom of the towering beacon, gazing upward and taking a breath, I entered and began the climb. Eighty-eight steps to the top, I finally made it, occasionally stopping to to catch my breath and peer out of the random porthole.
The views of the island were breathtaking and the waters surrounding the island were glistening in the morning sun. It was enlightening to find the landmarks noted on the signs attached to the rail and as I scanned the horizon, I spotted some of the attractions I was interested in visiting. The best attraction that I spotted, however, was my husband, sitting on the porch of the restaurant drinking his Diet Coke…and was that a piece of Key Lime pie?
At the base of the lighthouse, I stopped for a minute to admire one of the life-like statues that grace the lighthouse and museum’s grounds and then headed over to the lighthouse keeper’s former home, now a museum.
The first lighthouse on the island was built in 1825 near the Southernmost Point. After it was destroyed by a hurricane in 1846, this new lighthouse was constructed inland on Whitehead Street and completed in 1848.
As I moved through the museum, I learned that the first lighthouse keeper was a woman, nearly unheard of during that time period. Many upgrades were completed over the years, including the installation of a Third Order Fresnel Lens which allowed the lens to be seen from a greater distance, the addition of the Keeper’s Quarters and the installation of electricity. Though the lighthouse served Key West and its maritime visitors and passersby for many years, it was decommissioned in 1969.
A large number of photographs lined the walls of the museum and a couple of the rooms were staged to allow a look into how the lighthouse keepers and their families lived. There were many other nautical items and aged lens displayed throughout the gallery.
Other buildings on the premises
Though the lighthouse has not been in use for many years, it has played an important part of Key West’s maritime heritage and is now an important part of Key West’s tourism. There are many things to see and do in Key West and this is one of the ones that all visitors should see.
Was it worth the sweltering climb?
Yes, because I got the views and key lime pie in the end!
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