With so many things to do and see in Quito’s historic city center, it was hard to choose, much less squeeze as much as we could into one day!
Trying to maintain a balance of churches, convents and monasteries was the challenge as there are so many to visit.
The Monasterio Museo del Carmen Alto was one of the monasteries that I was interested in for its rich history. Built in 1653, it is still home to twenty Carmelite nuns and houses an fascinating museum.
The whitewashed, two-story building was the former home of Quito’s patron saint, Mariana de Jesus (1618-1645). Today, thousands of pilgrims make their way to the monastery to pay their respects to this Ecuadorian saint. Thousands more come to tour the exhibits which explore the daily routines of the cloistered nuns who have made their lives here, the religious art and artifacts from the monastery’s prestigious history and to purchase some of the nuns traditional sweets.
The cloistered nuns at Carmen Alto stay busy by producing limones desamargados, hollowed out tiny lemons filled with a sweet creamy center. After your visit, make sure to stop by the gift shop near the exit where you can stock up on these sweet treats as well as traditional baked goods, aromatic waters for nerves and insomnia, bee pollen, honey and bottles of mistela (anise-flavored liqueur).
The Museo del Carmen Alto is a great place to soak up some of Quito’s religious history as well as gather some unique souvenirs!
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Address: Garcia Moreno y Rocafuerte, Junto al Arco de la Reina, Quito, Pinchincha 17015
Hours: Wednesday-Sunday, 0930-1700
Admission: Adults, $3.00, Students (with I.D.), $2.00, Children, $1.50, Seniors over 65 years and those with disabilities, free. Spanish tours, free. English tours, $4.00.
Getting There: Located in the Historic Center of Quito on García Moreno and Rocafuerte streets, next to the Arco de la Reina. By Trolebus, stop at the station of the Plaza de Santo Domingo. By car, parking available on La Ronda, Guayaquil Street, in Cadisan, Calle Mejía and García Moreno.
There are five UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Ecuador.
The city of Quito received the prestigious honor in 1978.
Notorious for it equatorial crossing, Quito is known as the Middle of the World. It’s famous Old Town, which helped to earn its UNESCO World Heritage status, can be found in the middle of the city.
Founded in the 16th century on the ruins of an Inca city, the capital of Ecuador is one of the best preserved and least altered historic centers in Latin America. The city’s chief attraction is its Old Town, el Centro Historico, and its ample array of churches, monasteries and convents which date back to the beginnings of the colony. The Old Town spans a relatively small area, so it is quite easy to cover the distance in a day. Trying to decide what to see within that area is the most difficult part.
The best way to begin the exploration of Quito is in the Plaza de la Independencia, the city’s main square. Since the Basilica had taken up our entire morning, we would officially begin our tour the Old Town here.
Also known to the locals as Plaza Grande, the square is a part of the city’s rich history and a place where they go to chat, relax, play, eat and sometimes, get their shoes polished! It is surrounded by some of the most beautiful buildings in the city, including the Governor’s Palace (Palacio de Gobierno), the home and office of the Ecuadorian president, the Metropolitan Cathedral (Cathedral Metropolitana) and a centralized fountain surrounded by well manicured gardens.
Deciding to have a bite to eat before beginning our explorations we wandered into the Palacio Arzobispal (Archbishop’s Palace), a beautiful manor located along the north side of the plaza, which is the official residence of the Archbishop of Quito. In its three cobblestone courtyards, there is a multitude of shops and eateries. In this mall, we found Cafe del Fraile situated on the second floor, extending onto the ornate wooden balconies.
The food and service were equally as good as the scenery, both inside the restaurant and out. Seated on the balcony, we had an excellent view of the courtyard below and of some of the beautiful religious artwork that decorated it. So mesmerized by the theological pieces, I had to take a walk throughout all of the rooms, to make sure I didn’t miss anything!
After our meal was complete, we proceeded into the plaza. We found that the police had completely surrounded the square with tall wire fencing and would only let us out onto Venezuela Street. Not sure what was happening, our question was answered a short time later when a band of protesters came marching down the street, carrying signs and bullhorns. Deciding to cross over to the other side of the square on another street, we headed to the Church of La Compañía de Jesus (The Church of the Society of Jesus).
After paying our admission, I inquired as to whether photos were allowed. Not surprisingly, I was told no, as is the norm in many of the churches in Ecuador. Of course, after beginning our tour of the church, I was so enthralled with the sheer artistry of the interior, that I had to try and capture as much as I could without being seen.
Built over a span of 160 years, this church is known as the most beautiful church in the city and possibly all of Ecuador. Its gold leaf interior, elaborate design and traditional architecture are some of the most captivating I have ever witnessed.
Moving on, we headed to the El Museo Camilo Egas…well, not really headed. As we were walking by, we were invited in by the security guard. Not sure of what we were going in to see, we just decided to go with it.
This museum is dedicated to one of the great modern Ecuadorian artists of the twentieth century, Camilo Egas. This exhibition showed the different stages of his work during his lifetime (1898-1962) and is housed in a beautifully restored 17th century mansion.
As we walked along in the city, we enjoyed the handsome architecture…some buildings in better condition than others. The thing we enjoyed the most, however, was the people, most going about their daily activities and those practicing their traditional trades…the hatters, shoemakers and food vendors.
It was pretty easy to navigate the city using Google Maps on my Iphone, however, people often relate that making their way around the Old Town can be quite confusing. Noticing different types of signs, we learned that many streets have two different names…the official name on green plaques and the historical name painted on ceramic tiles. Most streets in the immediate Old Town area, however, have been laid in a grid-like fashion, from north to south, so getting around the center is fairly easy.
Heading in the direction of Panecillo Hill, we had decided to make our way to Calle La Ronda, the local nightlife area, when we were stopped by the police. Apparently we stuck out like the tourists that we were and they wanted to make sure that we were cautious if we were heading toward Calle La Ronda, an area sometimes known for pickpockets and thieves. A lively area in the evenings, we had thought to check it out during the day in the event that we decided to head there for dinner later that evening.
Though the walk was uneventful, heading down off of the overpass to access Calle de la Ronda, seemed a little sketchy. Once we were on the street, however, we found it to be quiet and lined with many historic buildings. It was interesting to find out that in the past, men would serenade the women on the balconies. If they sung well, they were invited to come in and meet the family and the woman. For those that could not carry a tune? They were only met with a bucket of water to their head!
Music still plays a big part on the mile-long stretch of the pedestrian street. During the evenings, especially on Friday and Saturday, the music is cranked up and you can find many restaurants cooking up Ecuadorian specialties and vendors selling handicrafts. We did head there later that evening, but found the loud music to be quite overwhelming and chose a quieter restaurant at the far end of the street.
Swinging by the Plaza Santo Domingo, I had hoped to be able to enter the church, however we found it to be closed. Inquiring with some of the vendors, I was told it would be open later in the day. Knowing our afternoon was coming to a close, I admired the uncrowded plaza which lent to some beautiful photos and we moved on. Later that evening, when we departed Calle La Ronda, we were able to observe the Church of Santo Domingo lit up beautifully and how crowded the square had become. If street performers is your thing, this is the place to go!
Continuing on our walk through Old Town, we decided to visit the Museo del Carmen Alto which is situated on the location where Saint Mariana of Jesus (Quito’s patron saint) lived and died. (Read more about it in a future post)
Nearing Plaza Independencia, we found that the police had removed the barricades and the square was back to its normal everyday routine. Though my husband was growing tired of visiting churches and desperately wanted to grab a seat and have a beer, I persuaded him to make one last push.
The Metropolitan Cathedral situated on the southern side of the plaza was a place that I had really wanted to visit and it did not disappoint. Though it is not as extravagant from the exterior, the interior has some amazing treasures. (You can read more about in in a future post)
So that was it! SO much to do in Quito’s old town and we had only made a dent. We were spending the next day traveling out to Otavalo and its sprawling market, so seeing the rest of Quito’s treasures would have to wait until a future visit.
When spending time in Quito, there is so much more to see…the Museo Alberto Mena Caamaño and its waxworks, the Casa de María Augusta Urrutia or the Casa de Sucre, to get a glimpse inside the best preserved Old Town houses and the Governor’s Palace (tours leave every 20 minutes starting at 0900). And for the church lovers like me, there are countless sanctuaries throughout the city, many within Old Town, including Plaza de San Francisco and its baroque church, Basilica of our Lady of the Merced, The Church of El Sagrario, Carmen Bajo, Church of San Agustin, Santa Catalina de Sienna Church and Convent, Church of San Blas, El Belén, The Guápulo Church and Convent.
I really must go back!
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Admission: National Tourists, Adults, $2.00, Children, Students, Seniors, People with Disabilities, $1.00. Visit to Domes (Church+Museum+Domes) $4.00. Foreign Tourists, Adults, $3.00, Children, Students, Seniors, People with Disabilities, $2.00. Visit to Domes (Church+Museum+Domes) $6.00.
We spotted it from high above the city at the top of the Teleferico…and from Panecillo Hill. Heck, we could even see it from our hotel room!
There is one stunning structure that dominates Quito’s Old Town skyline.
The Basilica of the National Vow.
In 1883, the idea to build a church that demonstrated Ecuador’s devotion to the Roman Catholic church and the Sacred Heart was recognized by Father Julio Matovelle. Though funds were set aside by the Ecuadorian Congress the following year, hoping to put Ecuador on the map with such a prestigious building, it was not enough.
Seeking to gain the assistance of the whole nation, donations were accepted in the form of stone blocks with the vow that upon the church’s completion, the names of the donors would be carved into them. To ensure the remaining funds were in place, a tax on salt was then instituted and collected.
After over a hundred years of construction and despite a blessing by Pope John Paul II in 1985 and its inauguration in 1988, the basilica is not considered technically complete. In fact, local legend says that when the Basilica is finally completed, it will be the end of the world.
Located in the Santa Prisca neighborhood of Quito’s historic Old Town, this basilica which is often compared to Paris’ Notre Dame. It is the largest in the Americas and in Quito, which made navigating the streets seeking its destination quite easy as it towers above everything nearby, perched upon a hill.
Indeed, as I gazed upon this neo-Gothic architectural marvel, it did remind me of Notre Dame, however, as I approached, gazing upward, there were no gargoyles. The French architect, Emilio Tarlier, instead, used turtles, iguanas and other animals native to the Galapagos Islands and the Amazon, the pride and joy of the Ecuadorian culture. He also altered the style of the church to blend in with the Spanish style of the city’s Old Town, which has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage since 1978.
After paying our admission, we wandered through the main floor of the basilica, admiring the colorful stained glass windows, bronze and wooden doors, artfully tiled floors, religious artwork and statues, vaulted ceilings and wooden confessionals. There were many side chapels and altars as well as the tombs of Gabriel Garcia Moreno, the former president of Ecuador and former Archbishop, Jose Ignazio Checa Barba.
As we stared appreciatively at the giant rose window at the far end of the basilica, we noticed people congregated in the gallery beneath the window. Searching for a stairway leading to this area, we found ourselves outside in a large, stone courtyard. Asking around, we finally determined that we needed to visit the ticket window in the courtyard to pay for access to the upper level, including the towers.
Finally, making our way up the stairs, we first stood upon the gallery which offered a magnificent view of the church below and a close-up view of the stained glass windows, including the stunning rose window. Stepping out a few feet within an opening we were also able to see parts of the the exterior of the basilica, as well as the flying buttresses and close-ups of some of the stone animals that decorate the exterior. Continuing our ascent, we made our way past the cafe and entered the clock tower. A fascinating space, we were able to inspect the inner workings of the massive clocks and old pictures of the construction of the basilica that decorated the tops of the walls. Here, we also had spectacular views of the city as well as the basilica’s other tower.
On the other tower, we could see movement and discovered that there were visitors making their way up and throughout the structure. We had not seen a walkway or any other point of access that would lead to this tower. Stepping into the gift shop, we discovered that on the other side of this shop, there was an entrance to the Condor Tower. It was a rather scary, narrow plank walkway leading across the basilica above the vaulted ceiling. A little apprehensive, we cautiously made our way to the other side and up the narrow ladder to the outer platform. Walking around the tower, we found the narrow stairs leading up to the top of the tower. Waiting our turn, as their was only room for one person moving up or down, I gathered my courage and made the steep climb. Not normally scared of heights, I could appreciate the spectacular view of the church’s roof and clock towers, but as I stood there, I thought about the instability of the area. What if an earthquake suddenly shook Quito? We took a quick couple of photos together, but I honestly couldn’t make the climb back down and over the walkway back to the main structure fast enough!
The Basilica del Voto Nacional is a breathtaking landmark for the churchgoers that call it home and for the thousands of tourists that visit to regard its beauty each year. Representing the breathtaking architecture found throughout the country it is both alluring and a welcoming respite for those seeking to pray and pay respects. It is important to allow at least two hours to fully appreciate all aspects of the church, especially the climbs into the towers. Though a bit daunting to some, making the ascent to see the views of the city landscape and El Panecillo between the spires is one you will never forget.
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Basilica del Voto Nacional Quito
Address: Carchi 122 y Venezuela., Quito, Pichincha 170150
Hours: 0900-1700, daily
Admission: Church admission, $2.00 US, Tower admission, $2.00
When looking for interesting tours and things to do on our visit to Quito, we considered Cotopaxi, but I was concerned about the altitude, even for the tours that only ascended halfway. After our experience in Cuzco the year before at 11,200 feet, where we took altitude medication and I experienced shortness of breath, I wasn’t sure it was something that I was ready for on this trip.
For a view of the city, we decided to head to the TeleferiQo, one of the primary tourist attractions. Opened in July 2005, this gondola, is one of the world’s highest aerial lifts, taking passengers on a 2.5 kilometer ride from the edge of the city up the eastern side of Pichincha volcano to the Cruz Loma lookout. And…for those who know that Spanish name for gondola is teleférico, the ride’s official name is a combination of “teleférico” and “Quito”…TeleferiQo! Don’t you love that?
Since I had not done much research on this attraction, we were surprised to find what a long ride to the top it was and how high we actually ascended.
Exiting the tram, after almost eighteen minutes, and making our way around the lookout area, we were amazed at the views of the surrounding volcanoes and mountains. Most of all, we could not believe we were at an altitude of 13,451 feet! Much higher than Cuzco!
Taken aback, I began to worry about the respiratory issues I had in Cuzco and immediately thought that we should take the gondola back down. My husband, however, persuaded me to take a walk around and see where the numerous paths would lead.
Thank goodness he did!
After taking in the sweeping views of the nearby mountains and volcanoes, we made our way along one of the paths leading to the Ermita de la Dolorosa, a small chapel, dedicated to Our Lady of Sorrows, which boasts that it is one of the closest to the sky.
Moving on, we followed the narrow, dusty path upwards to the start of the trail to Rucu Pichincha. Though we were not planning on hiking the five hour journey to that summit at 15,000 feet, there was much to see from the many overlooks in the area.
Along the way, I encountered a gentleman with both an alpaca and a llama offering the opportunity to take a picture with them. Donning the hat and poncho he draped me in, I held on and stood between the two animals. My two new amigos and I looked great against the beautiful blue sky and golden Ecuadorian landscape.
A short walk away, we encountered a set of swings. A little daunting, as it is located on the edge of a cliff, you almost feel as though you are going to fly off the mountain. Once you get used to the feeling of swinging so high over the city, your inner child takes over and it’s quite exhilarating!
The path continued a little further to for those desiring to hike or rent horses to continue on to Rucu Pinchincha. Here, we took in the different perspectives while zipping up to protect ourselves from the wind and dropping temperature of the waning afternoon.
Heading back down to the restaurant, we decided to take a break, have a snack and a beer and warm up before taking the 18 minute ride back to the teleférico’s base.
For all of the excitement of realizing that we had made it up so high in Quito, the adventure was enlightening. Had I realized that we were trying to ascend to such a high altitude, heck, maybe I wouldn’t have tried it. After the fact, however, I realized how little effect the altitude had on me and we probably could have gone to Cotopaxi. Nevertheless, our exploits on the volcano’s eastern slope were quite memorable!
If you are planning a trip to the TeleferiQo there are a few things to consider.
Mornings are considered the optimum time to visit as clouds tend to congregate on the summit later in the day. We were lucky and had a clear afternoon, however.
When purchasing tickets, a photo ID must be presented and the ticket stub retained for the return trip as it serves as a built-in alert system in case hikers do not return when expected.
Dress warmly and in layers as it gets colder and windy at the high altitude.
Stay hydrated.
Be aware of the signs of altitude sicknesswhich may present itself, even at the Cruz Loma lookout, to those who are susceptible.
Acclimate in Quito for a couple of days before attempting to hike to Rucu Pichincha. The hike can be done alone or with a qualified guide. You can also hire horses ($15 per hour).
Weekends tend to be quite busy.
For those with children, a stop at the Vulcan amusement park at the base of the teleférico is a must!
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Address: Off Avenue Occidental, Taxi is 3 Easiest, Quito, Pinchincha 17050
Hours: Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday, 0900-2000, Friday, Saturday, Sunday and Monday, 0800-2000
Admission: Adults, $8.50, Children under 18 years, $7.00, Senior citizens, $6.50, Fast Pass, $11.00. Discounted rates for Ecuadorian citizens with identification.
Getting There: By car, take the Av. Occidental (Mariscal Sucre) in North-South sense (towards the Tunnels). At a distance of approximately 3-4 minutes from Av. Mariana de Jesús, the entrance is at the height of the neighborhood “La Comuna”. You will go up a street until you reach the parking lot of the Telefériqo or take José Berrutieta Street, which can be accessed by Gasca Street at the intersection with Ritter Street. Upon entering José Berrutieta Street, you will reach the intersection with Antonio Herrera Street. You must continue along José Berrutieta street, go under a bridge and take Fulgencio Araujo street. Then you take the uphill street where you can see signs of the Telefériqo until you reach the parking lots. Parking rates are $2.50 per hour or fraction. By bus, Mitad del Mundo bus runs throughout the Av. Occidental (Mariscal Sucre). City buses have two lines, one departing from Miraflores, it can be taken at the Hospital del Seguro or at the Miraflores round and the other departure from the Panecillo and can be taken at any stop in the Tunnels (San Juan, San Roque or San Diego). By Uber or taxi, approximate cost $5.00 from Marisol Sucre.
That’s me. A person who wants to fill their passport with as many stamps from as many countries that they can.
This summer, I had done quite a bit of traveling with my family, however, even though we had visited cities to which I had never been, it was to countries that I had already marked off my map.
Scouring airline routes for a new country to visit, I decided that my husband and I could make it down to Quito, Ecuador, somewhere neither of us had ever traveled to, without a lot of fanfare or time off of his schedule.
Arriving late at night, the sky was dark and foggy and their wasn’t much to see at the airport or on our taxi ride to our hotel in the downtown area. So, it suffices to say that I was up early and eager to see what Quito had to offer.
One of the most popular attractions in Quito is the Equator. Yes…that imaginary line that runs through the center of our globe and what Quito is named for. If there was nothing else that we would see, this had to be it!
So you ask…if it’s imaginary, how would we find it?
Uber, of course!
Journeying via Uber for a few miles from the downtown area, our destination was Ciudad Mitad del Mundo (Middle of the World City), the location of where the monument to the equator has been built. Though is is touted that this is the exact location of the equator, as was determined by the eighteenth century Franco-Spanish Geodesic Mission, the World Geodetic System, used in modern GPS systems, actually shows that the equator actually lies about 240 meters north of the marked line.
Oops!
No matter, we would visit this Disney-esque like park and then head to the real Equator location at the Intinan Solar Museum afterward.
Mitad del Mundo Entrance and Ticket Booth
Passing through the entrance, we headed through the well-manicured grounds to the pyramidal monument which dominates the park’s skyline. Each side faces a cardinal direction and the monument is topped with a globe. Naturally, the first thing we (as all other tourists) did was to straddle the yellow “equator” line in front of the monument. For a moment, my husband was in the northern hemisphere and I was in the south…yet only a few inches away from each other!
How cool is that?
We ventured into the monument to visit the small museum that offers insight into the Ecuadorian culture as well as information about the equator and the history of Mitad del Mundo. Working our way through each level, we finally, found ourselves at the top which offers a viewing platform and amazing perspectives of the property and the city and mountains beyond.
Making our way throughout the property, we found it to be quite vast and offering many attractions, including shopping and restaurants along a small colonial square, a llama farm, beer and cocoa museums, a planetarium and replications of ancestral housing. There are three cultural museums, the Ecuadorian Pavilion which offers a look at pre-Columbian art to inform of the history of Ecuador, the France Pavilion, a two-storied space which offers insight into the main contributions provided by the First and Second French Geodetic Mission and the Guayasamin Pavilionwhere you can appreciate the works of Ecuadorian painter and sculptor Oswaldo Guayasamin, who fought for the rights of the indigenous people. The Cultural Square hosts cultural events on most weekends and there is a small train station which provides transportation throughout the park with commentary emphasizing the history of the park.
Ancestral HousingReplicas
My favorite thing (besides dining on delicious empanadas) was our visit to the chapel modeled after the many churches that dominate the center of Quito. Ascending the bell tower, we had a beautiful view of the monument and the square below, I immediately focused in on this sign.
Oh, yes! I’ve always wanted to ring a church bell!
Descending back into and out of the church, we made our way, next door, to the Virgin’s Museum which highlights the most important Virgins celebrated and worshiped around the world. Just down the street, there was a small grotto, which gives patrons a chance to give thanks and praise to the most important Virgin, the Blessed Virgin Mary.
Although, it would have been easy to spend the greater part of a day here at Ciudad Mitad del Mundo, our itinerary was packed with many of Quito’s attractions and it was time to move on.
Petting the llamas would have to wait until next time!
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Address: Manuel Cordova Galarza Km. 13, 5 SN, Quito, Ecuador
Hours: 0900-1800, daily
Admission: Adults, $5.00, Children (ages 5-12), $2.50, Seniors and Disabled, $2.50, Children under 5, free
Getting There: Uber, from the Hilton, about $13.00 US. Quito Tour Bus, $30.00 per Adult, $20.00, reduced fare, departing from the Boulevard of the United Nations. The Mitad del Mundo bus ($.40 per person, adult, $.20 reduced) which runs along the Occidental Avenue (North-South). Buses run approximately every 5 minutes. Taxi rates vary from various parts of the city and arrangements can be made from most hotels for driver to wait for return or transport to other locations throughout the city.
Recently, while walking in the Pinciano quarter, near Villa Borghese, I happened upon the church of Santa Teresa d’Avila, an early 20th century minor basilica.
Finding the doors unlocked, I ventured in to see what this church was about.
Designed in the neo-Romanesque style, the church was constructed rather quickly, beginning in 1901, and completed only one year later. Made a parochial church by Pope Pius X in 1906, the church was entrusted to the Discalced Carmelite friars, who to this day, continue to serve the parish with their convent located next door. Forty-five years later, under the orders of Pope Pius XII, the church’s status was elevated to Minor Basilica.
The exterior of the building is constructed of red brick and is rather unremarkable except for the two-storied entrance facade with its four columns and elaborately carved relief depicting Christ Blessing St. Teresa. The main entrance is graced with a bronze door designed by Fra Serafino Melchiore and the reliefs depicts scenes from the life of St. Teresa.
Sufficient to say, I hoped the interior would differ from the exterior thinking back to many of the churches I had visited in the city. Sadly, I found the decor to be quite plain except for a few decorative additions. Designed in a Latin cross plan, there were eight side altars, dedicated to Carmelite saints and two altars flanking the sanctuary and a main altar. Adorned with works by 20th century Roman artists, there was a wheel window with stained glass showing Christ the Apostles over the entrance, 18th century wooden choir stalls hailing from Santa Maria in Campo Marzio and a 17th century bronze crucifix by Pietro Tacca. Behind a screen of carved limestone, there was also a choir which contained a life-sized statue of St. Teresa.
My time in the church of Santa Teresa d’Avila was short and although I was not overwhelmed by my visitation, I’m glad I decided to take a quick look.
One more church marked off the Rome list!
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Ever see something many times, yet never tire of it?
This is how I feel about St. Peter’s Basilica.
It’s no secret that I love churches, but this one surpasses all.
Situated on Vatican Hill, St. Peter’s Basilica can be seen from many parts of Rome, beckoning visitors, that total in the millions every year, from all over the world. One of only four Major basilicas in the world (with the other three also in Rome…St. Paul’s Outside the Walls, Santa Maria Maggiore and St. John the Lateran), this basilica achieved its fame as it derives its name from the fact that it was built on the site where St. Peter was buried in 64 AD.
This UNESCO world heritage site has a capacity of over 60,000 people and covers an area of over 22,300 square meters, making it one of the world’s largest churches. Originally the site of the Circus of Nero and a cemetery, the original basilica was erected between the years of 319 and 349 AD under the orders of Emperor Constantine, the first Christian emperor of Rome. Falling into disrepair after standing for over 1,000 years, Pope Julius II (who also commissioned the Sistine Ceiling) made the decision to demolish and rebuild the structure.
The greatest architects of the Roman Renaissance and Baroque were consulted and utilized for this new basilica, including Bramante, Raphael, Michelangelo, Donato, Giacomo della Porta and Maderno with Bramante’s original design being chosen in 1506. After 120 years, the basilica was completed and consecrated by Pope Urban VIII.
St. Peter’s Square, itself, is an architectural highlight, designed by Bernini in the seventeenth century, and is overlooked by the Loggia della Benedizione, the central balcony from where the pope delivers his Urbi et Orbi blessing at Christmas and Easter. It is here, on the right, where you join the queue to enter St. Peter’s basilica. The line moves quite quickly, however, the time seemed to drag as we stood in the heat of the August afternoon, making our way to the security screening area.
Finally, we entered the massive church and as always, I found myself unsure of where to turn first. There is so much to see on the main level of St. Peter’s including the Michelangelo’s Pieta, located to the right of the entrance, between the Holy Door and the altar of Saint Sebastian.. Carved from a single slab of marble, it was created by Michelangelo when he was only twenty-two years of age and is one of his first works of art. It is the only piece he ever created that was signed.
Take a look around on the floor nearby, and see if you can spot the red disk that marks that spot where Charlemagne and later Holy Roman Emperors were crowned by the pope.
Walking along the right and left naves, there were many side altars to admire, each more beautiful than the next, but it was what was at the high altar that commanded our attention. Here, Bernini’s famous baldachin is supported by four spiral columns and made with bronze from taken from the Pantheon. The baldechin stands over the altar which sits above the site of St. Peter’s grave. So holy is this site that the pope is the only priest allowed to serve at the altar.
Above us, the dome, also created by Michelangelo, was another of the basilica’s highlights. Soaring to a height of almost four hundred feet, this dome was based on Brunelleschi’s design for the Duomo in Florence. The cupola is supported by four stone piers names after the saints whose statues adorn the Bernini designed niches…Longinus, Helena, Veronica and Andrew. Having been up in the cupola before, I was anxious to see the remaining features before heading upwards.
Another of the basilica’s treasures is the 13th century bronze statue of St. Peter. Designed by Arnolfo di Cambio, what is immediately noticed is that statue’s right foot is extremely shiny…due to the centuries of caresses by visitors hoping to receive blessings by rubbing the extremity.
Heading into the Museo Storico Artistico, located in the left nave, we perused the multitude of sacred relics, including a jewel-studded cross gifted to the church by emperor Justinian II, a 6th century Crux Vaticana and a tabernacle by Donatello.
Finding our way to the Vatican Grottoes beneath the basilica, it is here that visitors can pay their respects to the tombs and sarcophagi of 91 popes that have served the Catholic church during its long history. You can also see the several large columns from the original 4th century basilica here, but my favorite part of being in this space is the tomb of the most beloved St. John Paul II, the second longest-serving pope in modern history who is credited in ending Communist rule. It is also interesting to note that in addition to the entombed popes, there are three women laid to rest here; Queen Christina of Sweden, Agnesina Colonna Caetani and Queen Charlotte of Cyprus.
Beneath this area, excavations have uncovered what is believed to be the tomb of St. Peter. This area, however, is accessible only to those escorted by a guide, booked well in advance.
Making our way back upstairs, we decided that it was time to head upstairs, to the dome and the cupola. The dome’s ticket entrance is located on the right of the basilica’s main portico and a major decision is to be made here when purchasing a ticket.
Walk up the 551 steps to the top (kudos to those who do) or take the lift halfway and climb the remaining 320 steps. Of course, we had had a long day, traveling from Naples and exploring the Vatican, so you probably guess what our decision was.
After exiting the lift, we walked around the first level, taking in the beautiful mosaics that line the walls making up the dome’s design and the birds’ eye view of the basilica below.
Walking out onto the roof of the basilica, we walked out to check out the statues of Jesus and the Apostles that can be seen on the roof of the basilica from the square. There is also a bathroom, a refreshment stand and a gift shop that you can mail your Vatican City postmarked postcards from.
Continuing onward and upward, it was here that the journey becomes a little more challenging. This second part requires the climbing of the remaining 320 steps to the top. There is a narrow, single-file, spiral staircase that requires you to lean in to accommodate the slanting of the roof and at the end, a corkscrew staircase. Though there are some windows along the way, this part definitely made me feel extremely claustrophobic and I could not wait to reach the top.
Once I did, however, the views of the city and St. Peter’s Square below were breathtaking!
Who could ever tire of this?
That’s why I keep coming back!
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Address: Piazza San Pietro, 00120 Città del Vaticano, Vatican City
Hours: October 1 until March 31, 0700-1830, April 1 until September 30, 0700-1900. Dome Access, October 1 until March 31, 0730-1700, April 1 until September 30, 0700-1800.
Admission: Basilica, free. Dome Access, including lift to terrace level and continue on foot (320 steps), € 10.00. Ascent on foot (551 steps), € 8.00. Reductions for schools are possible by presenting an attestation of the Institute with the list of participants, € 5.00
Getting There: Metro, Line A, Ottaviano stop and then a 10 minute walk. Bus lines 64, 62, 40 and 81 and Hop On/Hop Off buses drop off in Vatican City. Children under 10 travel free on all public transport. By car, the nearest parking facility is the underground five-story park, Terminal Gianicolo, a ten minute walk from St. Peter’s Basilica.
There are many unique highlights that visitors aspire to visit on a trip to the Rome.
There is one, however, that tops the list.
The Sistine Chapel.
Located in Vatican City, the smallest country in the world, the Vatican Museums receive more than six million visitors a year who come to see the seventeen museums that make up the complex. The Sistine Chapel, is the pièce de résistance.
Having been to the Vatican museums many years ago on a couple of occasions, I knew that in order to obtain entrance to the Sistine Chapel, there are many chambers and rooms to pass through and countless masterpieces to study before reaching the famed chapel.
Being the height of the summer season, the line snaked around the exterior of the building and the interior was overloaded, Walking slowly, shoulder to shoulder, we quickly realized that reaching the Sistine Chapel was going to take an extensive amount of time and much jockeying for position.
Passing through the various collections, the Gregorian Profane Museum, Ethnological Missionary Museum, Pinacoteca, Pio-Clementino Museum, Rafaello Rooms and the Chiaramonti Museum, we struggled with the heat and the incessant jostling from other people trying to see what each collection had to offer.
The one thing I realized was that I was enduring this to show my son the glorious treasure that awaited us deep in the museum. A glorious ceiling painted by Michaelangelo…and yet, as I looked here, above me, there were countless paintings over my head. Yes, many artworks on the walls, but each room’s ceilings were painted exquisitely, setting the stage for what was to come.
We admired what we could in each of the galleries, but I kept my head aimed high and marveled at what was above.
Finally, we spotted the signs directing us to the Sistine Chapel!
As we entered the chapel, I immediately snapped a picture of the ceiling and was reprimanded by one of the guards. Making our way into the throng of people passing along the outer wall, I realized that if we kept walking, we were going to leave the chapel without having had the time to inspect what had taken so long to reach. Pushing out of the moving queue, we made our way to the center of the room where there were many people standing.
Protected from guarded eyes by the people around me, I was able to capture a few photographs of the jewel of the Vatican before just taking a few moments to relish the fact that we were indeed in one of the most magnificent holy places and working chapels in the world.
The Sistine Chapel was erected between the years of 1473 and 1481 by architect Giovanni dei Dolci under the orders of Pope Sixtus IV. Although its exterior is nothing spectacular, the interior is what over 6 million visitors come to see annually. Its frescoes on the side walls were painted by Florentine Renaissance masters (1481-1483) and depict the lives of Christ and Moses and various popes. The lowest parts of the side walls are covered for ceremonial occasions, depicting events from the Gospels and the Acts of the Apostles and were designed by Raphael (1515-1519).
The most important part of the chapel are the reason all visitors leave with a crook in their necks…the frescoes by Michelangelo on the ceiling and on the west wall behind the altar. The entire collection of frescoes on the ceiling are collectively known as the Sistine Ceiling and were commissioned by Pope Julius II in 1508 depicting incidents and personages from the Old Testament. Many years later (1534-1541), Michaelangelo was commissioned again, by Pope Paul III, to paint the Last Judgment fresco on the west wall.
It is so spectacular, it is almost too much to take in and before long, we realized that we had outstayed our welcome. Reluctantly finding our way to the exit, we entered the Borgia apartments and continued our journey through the remaining parts of the museum.
To see everything that the Vatican Museums has to offer, it would take days. The Vatican Museums encompass the world’s largest private art collection (with its origins dating back to 1503) and most of what is in their possession, not on display. If you are interested in seeing as much as you can of the Vatican Museums, I would recommend starting your day early and having a plan, including a map with the items you are most interested in seeking out. Since on this day, we had hoped to see what we could of the museums, with the Sistine Chapel being our main focus, and St. Peter’s Basilica, we limited ourselves to what little we could achieve.
Me? Since I had been there before on a couple of occasions, I was content that I had seen something new. Never before had I realized what was over my head when I was so mesmerized by all that was around me. I understand that many people have that one opportunity to visit Rome and see what they can. Thankfully, I have been blessed to have had more than one chance.
If you ever find yourself in Rome for a second (or third) time, take the time to go back to the Vatican again and again. You never know what else you might find!
What you can expect to see in each of the museums:
Pio-Clementino Museum: Created by popes Clement XIV and Pius VI, this museum holds the most important Greek works in the Vatican.
Apartment of Pius V: The work of Pope Pius V, this museum contains Flemish tapestries from the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, a collection of medieval ceramics and another of medieval miniature mosaics.
Gallery of the Chandeliers: Roman replicas of Greek originals and enormous chandeliers from the second century A.D. decorate this elegant gallery.
Ethnological Missionary Museum: This museum contains works of art from all the papal missions of the world, among which there are objects originating from Tibet, Indonesia, India, the Far East, Africa and America.
Gallery of Maps: Carried out between the years 1580 and 1585, the beautiful maps painted in fresco on the walls of this gallery represent the Italian regions and the possessions of the Church.
Historical Museum – Carriage Pavilion: In this section you will find coaches, saddles, cars, and Vatican City’s first locomotive.
Gallery of Tapestries: Exhibition of Flemish tapestries created between 1523 and 1534.
Pio-Christian Museum: The collection of Christian antiquities is composed of statues, sarcophagi and archaeological ruins from the sixth century.
Pinacoteca: The eighteen rooms in the Pinacoteca building contain pictorial works dating from the Middle Ages until 1800.
Sobieski Room and the Room of the Immaculate: In both rooms you will find paintings originating in the Italian “Ottocento”.
Egyptian Museum: Among other pieces acquired by the popes you can find some impressive Egyptian sculptures, besides the prized sarcophagi from the third century B.C. There are also some black basalt statues originating from the Villa Adriana, which are replicas of Egyptian models.
Etruscan museum: This part of the museum contains elements of ceramic, bronze and gold belonging to the Etruscan civilization.
Chiaramonti Museum: Created thanks to Pius VII Chiaramonti, this gallery holds thousands of sculptures including portraits of emperors, images of the gods and some funeral monuments.
Gregorian Profane Museum: Greek and Roman sculptures are exhibited here from the first to third centuries A.D.
Borgia Apartment: The apartments that belonged to the Pope Alexander VI Borgia today serve as exhibition rooms for the Collection of Modern Religious Art.
Raphael Rooms: Rafael and his assistants decorated the apartments of the Pope Julius II.
Sala Della Biga: Holding court in this space is a monumental marble figure of a chariot drawn by two horses carried out in the first century A.D.
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Hours: Monday-Saturday, 0900-1800 (final entry, 1600). Every last Sunday of the month, 0900-1400 (final entry, 1230). Closed on Sundays (except the last Sunday of each month), 1 January, 11 February 19 March, 22 April, 1 May, 29 June, 14 and 15 August, 1 November, 25 and 26 December
Admission: No guide. Adults, 17.00€, Reduced 8.00€, Online booking fee, 4.00€. For audioguide, add additional 7.00€. Prices vary for guided tours, please consult Vatican Official website.
Getting There: Metro, Line A, Ottaviano stop and then a 10 minute walk. Bus lines 64, 62, 40 and 81 and Hop On/Hop Off buses drop off in Vatican City. Children under 10 travel free on all public transport. By car, the nearest parking facility is the underground five-story park, Terminal Gianicolo, a ten minute walk from Vatican City.
Important to note:Proper dress is required and visitors can be denied access even with a ticket. The following clothing items are not allowed in the Vatican Museums, the Sistine Chapel, St. Peter’s Basilica and the Vatican Gardens…mini skirts, shorts above the knee, sleeveless tops, lowcut clothing, hats. The Vatican’s dress code applies to both men and women.
Most people visit the church of Santa Maria in Cosmedin only to see the Mouth of Truth.
Even when approaching the church, visitors often forget to admire the medieval facade with its seven open arches, seven windows and slender Romanesque belltower (added in the 12th century), as they ponder the long line snaking out from the portico.
Should we wait? Or shouldn’t we?
Whether one decides to take their place in the interminable line to place their hand between the jaws of the stone face’s mouth or not, a short visit to the church should be in order.
Santa Maria in Cosmedin was founded during the sixth century on the site of an ancient temple dedicated to Hercules Invictus which was last rebuilt in the 2nd century BC.
With its name being derived from the Greek word, kosmidioin, meaning ornamented, it would be expected that the interior would be one decorated beautifully. Though that was once the case, the minor basilica’s only surviving enhancements are some floor mosaics, a bishop’s chair, a ceremonial canopy and the medieval choir enclosure.
The church’s main draw, however, is the glass shrine with the skull of St. Valentine, patron saint of love, located on the left side of the church. Once located in the lower level crypt, the remains of the martyr, who now lends his name to the holiday we celebrate on February 14 (the day of his death) can be admired on its own altar. The skull wears a wreath of flowers and has a stenciled inscription across the skull.
Though there are ten St. Valentine’s listed in the Roman Catholic register of saints, the one whose skull resides in Santa Maria in Cosmedin church is believed to be a holy priest who assisted St. Marius in giving aid to the martyrs persecuted under Claudius II. After being summoned by the Emperor to Rome, demanded to renounce his faith and refusing, he was beaten and beheaded.
The church is quite small but make sure not to miss the ancient Crypt of Adrian I, located under the presbytery. Created between the years of 772 and 795, it is a small space divided into three naves by six columns and reminiscent of a small basilica. There is a small altar at the far end and it is believed that the crypt once housed other relics (Cirilla, Adauctus, Valentino, Adriano, Amelia, Antonino, Clemenza, Generous, Ottavio, Patrick, Olympia and St. John Baptist de Rossi). According to legend, an ancient tunnel once connected the crypt to the catacombs on the Appian Way.
Santa Maria in Cosmedin is located adjacent to Circus Maximus and just across the river from the Trastevere, the funky bohemian area of Rome filled with restaurants, shops and of course, more churches.
Make sure to include it in your day of sightseeing…then you can say you had a Happy Valentine’s Day!
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Because we were so excited to experience Positano, it seemed that it took a lifetime to get there.
Because our feet hurt and we were hot and tired, it seemed like the journey back went wayyyy to quick!
Suddenly…we were back where we started, Sorrento!
Anxious to see this city, we jumped off the bus, despite our aching and sweaty body parts, and headed towards the center of town.
Discovering the Piazza Sant’Antonino, we admired the statue of Sant’Antonino Abate surrounded by palm trees and fronting Sorrento’s Town Hall. The city’s patron saint died in 626 AD and was credited with saving the life of a child swallowed by a whale and protecting Sorrento against plague and invasion. Every year on the anniversary of his death, February 14, a silver statue of Sant’Antonino is carried through the city’s streets accompanied by countless festivities. Throughout the year, respects can be paid to this important saint in the basilica dedicated to him, also in the piazza, across from his statue.
Of course we had to visit this important basilica as should anyone visiting Sorrento…just make sure not to pass it by. The city’s oldest church is quite plain from the outside and could be mistaken for another of the area’s buildings.
Erected in the 11th century on the site of an antique oratory, the basilica is rich in history, art and important artifacts. Upon entering the lobby, there are two whale ribs posted as a memento of the miracle credited to Sant’Antonino. The church’s interior exhibits rich details including columns taken from the numerous Roman country homes in the area, an 11th century gate supported by Corinthian capitals and valuable paintings by Giovanni Bernardi Lama and Giacomo Del Po, both dating back to the 1600s.
The sacristy exhibits two rare treasures, the fragments of an antique terracotta floor and a beautiful Neapolitan Christmas nativity from the 17th century.
The most interesting items in the church, however, reside in the crypt. The tomb of Sant’Antonino is located here as well as an immense collection of votive offerings donated by seamen who have escaped death on the waters where they travel. Though we were not quite sure what they were at first, we found them to be quite fascinating!
Heading toward the coast, we walked past restaurants, shops and colorful homes with the bayside park of Villa Communale in mind, to take in the sweeping views and have a refreshing drink along the waterfront.
Before we arrived, however, we encountered a wedding party emerging from the Chiostro e Chiesa di San Francesco (The San Francesco Cloister). Taking a peek inside the cloister, as the group dispersed, we discovered a peaceful garden, popular for weddings, art exhibits and classical concerts. The church, which we were unable to visit, due to the wedding, was built in the 14th century and is one of the oldest monuments in Sorrento.
Back to our original destination, we found a well manicured park with statues, paths and fountains. It is here that you can take the Sorrento Lift to access Sorrento’s beaches.
Sorrento’s beaches. Let me explain.
As we stood along the overlook, we glanced down at a maze of wharves, umbrellas and changing huts. Here, three beach clubs, Leonelli’s, Marameo and Peter’s, extend from a strip of volcanic sand offering a place for sunseekers to swim and relax. We were fascinated by this colorful concept and again, after enduring the searing August heat all day, wished that we could journey down the cliff to one of these beach clubs. With more to see and a dinner to enjoy, we sadly had to pass.
Continuing on our quest to see all that Sorrento had to offer, we left for the Sorrento Cathedral, which was scheduled to reopen after their afternoon siesta. Along the way, we passed the Sedil Dominova, located behind the main square, where local noblemen would congregate and discuss civil affairs. It is the last surviving ancient noble seat in the Campania region of Southern Italy and today, houses a working men’s club where locals meet to play cards.
Finally arriving at the Sorrento Cathedral, near the main square, we gazed upward at its beautiful, three-story clock tower made up of a base dating back to the Roman Empire. Entering this 11th century Roman Catholic cathedral (rebuilt in the Romanesque style in the 15th century), we gazed around in wonder at the beauty that surrounded us. The church, dedicated to St. James and St. Philip, is filled with beautiful inlaid wood, marble side altars dedicated to various saints, paintings by local Neapolitan artists and an 18th century Neapolitan nativity scene.
In the apse, there is a masterfully inlaid, 19th century choir and under the pulpit, a significant altarpiece by Silvestro Buono, dating back to 1573, known as La Vergine tra San Giovanni Battista e san Giovanni Evangelista (The Virgin Between St. John the Baptist and St. John the Evangelist), among other treasures. Make sure to not miss the secondary entrance with its classic rectangular portal dating back to 1478, the 10th century marble slab with a depiction of a lioness near the entrance and the baptismal font in the first chapel on the right, where Italian writer Torquato Tasso was baptized.
Most important, however, is the 17th century altar dominated by the large wooden crucifix dating from the 15th century. As I walked down the aisle, it was quite captivating, reminding parishioners of the origins of their religious beliefs.
Leaving the cathedral, we realized that we could squeeze in one more Sorrento attraction…the Bastion of Parsano, which had just reopened for the beginning of its summer evening hours. Even before the birth of Christ, Sorrento had defensive walls built to protect it and access to the city was allowed through five entrance gates. A series of towers were built to defend the gates and continued to protect Sorrento during the Middle Ages. The walls were later rebuilt for better protection and visitors to Sorrento can see the remains below the street level at Porta Parsano Nuova, where they are open for public visitation. As we walked around the bastion, we admired the stonework and marveled at how long this line of defense had stood here. It is truly amazing and one of Sorrento’s treasures.
It was finally time to seek out a place to fill our stomachs as we had a train to catch for our return to Naples.
After finally arriving back in Naples and settling down to get some sleep on my cool, clean sheets, I was able to breath a sigh of contentment. We’d had a long day, but to endure the lack of sleep, long travel day and heat of the August day to see two of the amazing towns of the Amalfi Coast…it was all worth it!
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