Suddenly, Sorrento!

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Because we were so excited to experience Positano, it seemed that it took a lifetime to get there.

Because our feet hurt and we were hot and tired, it seemed like the journey back went wayyyy to quick!

Suddenly…we were back where we started, Sorrento!

Anxious to see this city, we jumped off the bus, despite our aching and sweaty body parts, and headed towards the center of town.

Discovering the Piazza Sant’Antonino, we admired the statue of Sant’Antonino Abate surrounded by palm trees and fronting Sorrento’s Town Hall. The city’s patron saint died in 626 AD and was credited with saving the life of a child swallowed by a whale and protecting Sorrento against plague and invasion. Every year on the anniversary of his death, February 14, a silver statue of Sant’Antonino is carried through the city’s streets accompanied by countless festivities. Throughout the year, respects can be paid to this important saint in the basilica dedicated to him, also in the piazza, across from his statue.

Of course we had to visit this important basilica as should anyone visiting Sorrento…just make sure not to pass it by. The city’s oldest church is quite plain from the outside and could be mistaken for another of the area’s buildings.

Erected in the 11th century on the site of an antique oratory, the basilica is rich in history, art and important artifacts. Upon entering the lobby, there are two whale ribs posted as a memento of the miracle credited to Sant’Antonino. The church’s interior exhibits rich details including columns taken from the numerous Roman country homes in the area, an 11th century gate supported by Corinthian capitals and valuable paintings by Giovanni Bernardi Lama and Giacomo Del Po, both dating back to the 1600s.

The sacristy exhibits two rare treasures, the fragments of an antique terracotta floor and a beautiful Neapolitan Christmas nativity from the 17th century.

The most interesting items in the church, however, reside in the crypt. The tomb of Sant’Antonino is located here as well as an immense collection of votive offerings donated by seamen who have escaped death on the waters where they travel. Though we were not quite sure what they were at first, we found them to be quite fascinating!

Heading toward the coast, we walked past restaurants, shops and colorful homes with the bayside park of Villa Communale in mind, to take in the sweeping views and have a refreshing drink along the waterfront.

Before we arrived, however, we encountered a wedding party emerging from the Chiostro e Chiesa di San Francesco (The San Francesco Cloister). Taking a peek inside the cloister, as the group dispersed, we discovered a peaceful garden, popular for weddings, art exhibits and classical concerts. The church, which we were unable to visit, due to the wedding, was built in the 14th century and is one of the oldest monuments in Sorrento.

Back to our original destination, we found a well manicured park with statues, paths and fountains. It is here that you can take the Sorrento Lift to access Sorrento’s beaches.

Sorrento’s beaches. Let me explain.

As we stood along the overlook, we glanced down at a maze of wharves, umbrellas and changing huts. Here, three beach clubs, Leonelli’s, Marameo and Peter’s, extend from a strip of volcanic sand offering a place for sunseekers to swim and relax. We were fascinated by this colorful concept and again, after enduring the searing August heat all day, wished that we could journey down the cliff to one of these beach clubs. With more to see and a dinner to enjoy, we sadly had to pass.

Continuing on our quest to see all that Sorrento had to offer, we left for the Sorrento Cathedral, which was scheduled to reopen after their afternoon siesta. Along the way, we passed the Sedil Dominova, located behind the main square, where local noblemen would congregate and discuss civil affairs. It is the last surviving ancient noble seat in the Campania region of Southern Italy and today, houses a working men’s club where locals meet to play cards.

Finally arriving at the Sorrento Cathedral, near the main square, we gazed upward at its beautiful, three-story clock tower made up of a base dating back to the Roman Empire. Entering this 11th century Roman Catholic cathedral (rebuilt in the Romanesque style in the 15th century), we gazed around in wonder at the beauty that surrounded us. The church, dedicated to St. James and St. Philip, is filled with beautiful inlaid wood, marble side altars dedicated to various saints, paintings by local Neapolitan artists and an 18th century Neapolitan nativity scene.

In the apse, there is a masterfully inlaid, 19th century choir and under the pulpit, a significant altarpiece by Silvestro Buono, dating back to 1573, known as La Vergine tra San Giovanni Battista e san Giovanni Evangelista (The Virgin Between St. John the Baptist and St. John the Evangelist), among other treasures. Make sure to not miss the secondary entrance with its classic rectangular portal dating back to 1478, the 10th century marble slab with a depiction of a lioness near the entrance and the baptismal font in the first chapel on the right, where Italian writer Torquato Tasso was baptized.

Most important, however, is the 17th century altar dominated by the large wooden crucifix dating from the 15th century. As I walked down the aisle, it was quite captivating, reminding parishioners of the origins of their religious beliefs.

Leaving the cathedral, we realized that we could squeeze in one more Sorrento attraction…the Bastion of Parsano, which had just reopened for the beginning of its summer evening hours. Even before the birth of Christ, Sorrento had defensive walls built to protect it and access to the city was allowed through five entrance gates. A series of towers were built to defend the gates and continued to protect Sorrento during the Middle Ages. The walls were later rebuilt for better protection and visitors to Sorrento can see the remains below the street level at Porta Parsano Nuova, where they are open for public visitation. As we walked around the bastion, we admired the stonework and marveled at how long this line of defense had stood here. It is truly amazing and one of Sorrento’s treasures.

It was finally time to seek out a place to fill our stomachs as we had a train to catch for our return to Naples.

After finally arriving back in Naples and settling down to get some sleep on my cool, clean sheets, I was able to breath a sigh of contentment. We’d had a long day, but to endure the lack of sleep, long travel day and heat of the August day to see two of the amazing towns of the Amalfi Coast…it was all worth it!

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Basilica of Sant’Antonino

Cloister of San Francesco

Villa Communale

Leonelli’s Beach Club

  • http://www.leonellisbeach.com/en/#Beach
  • Address: Spiaggia San Francesco, 80067 Sorrento NA, Italy
  • Hours: 0900-1900, April to October
  • Rental Rates: Around 12€ to rent a lounger and umbrella. Restaurant/snack bar available.

Marameo Beach Club

  • https://www.marameobeach.com/
  • Address: Spiaggia San Francesco, Via Marina Piccola, 80067 Sorrento NA, Italy
  • Hours: 0830-2400, April to October
  • Rental Rates: Around 12€ to rent a lounger and umbrella. Restaurant/snack bar available.

Peter’s Beach Club

  • https://www.petersbeachsorrento.com/
  • Address: Via S. Francesco, 80067 Sorrento NA, Italy
  • Hours: 0900-1700
  • Rental Rates: Around 12€ to rent a lounger and umbrella. Restaurant/snack bar available.

Sedil Dominova

  • Address: Via S. Cesareo, 70, 80067 Sorrento NA, Italy
  • Hours: 0900-2400

Sorrento Cathedral

  • http://www.cattedralesorrento.it/
  • Address: Via Santa Maria della Pietà, 46, 80067 Sorrento NA, Italy
  • Hours: 0830-1230 and 1630-2030. Mass schedule, Sunday and holidays, 0830, 1000, 1115 and 1800. Week days, 0830 and 1800.
  • Admission: free

Bastion of Parsano

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