Well, you can strap them to a lie detector and administer the test.
If you happen to be in Rome, however, you can take them to the Mouth of Truth.
Located under the portico at the church of Santa Maria in Cosmedin, the carved marble disk, also known as the La Bocca della Verita, displays the face of a man.
And he bites...if you are a liar!
Dating back to around the 1st century CE, the carving is of a humanoid face with hollow holes for eyes and a gaping mouth. Though it is not sure why it was created, it has been theorized that the medallion acted as a manhole cover, a fountain decoration or maybe even a ceremonial well cover. Possibly a pagan god, no one is entirely sure whose features the face was modeled on.
This face, however, is thought to elicit the truth from those who dare to place their hand in its mouth, as it is either the truth or a bite.
Be prepared for a long wait, the line always extends outside of the church onto the sidewalk. If you really don’t want to wait, however, you can always just take a quick picture through the bars. If you do wait, however, be prepared to tell the truth if a question is asked of you!
So, did I get a question?
My son asked me if I was having fun.
The answer?
YES!
I was getting to share all of my favorite sites in Rome with him!
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Mouth of Truth
Address: Piazza della Bocca della Verità, 18, 00186 Roma RM, Italy
Spying a nearby church tower as we stood atop the Castel Sant’Elmo, we decided that this would be our next destination. Little did I realize at the time that it was a monastery…one of my favorite places to visit!
The Certosa e Museo di San Martino is located a short distance from the Castel Sant’Elmo and is truly a treasure of Naples. Built in 1325 and then rebuilt in the 17th century, this large monastery complex was more than we ever imagined.
As we entered the courtyard, we discovered the church that we spied from Castel Sant’Elmo. This baroque sanctuary is a masterpiece decorated with a stunning marble floor, various paintings by Jusepe de Ribera, sculptures by Guiseppe Sanmartino and frescoes by Battistello Caracciolo. At the presbytery, there is an intricate marble lattice, decorated with precious stones and altar made of the same materials. Be sure to take a look up at the ceilings which are richly decorated with frescoes.
As we continued our exploration, we came to the peaceful Grand Cloister (Chiostro Grande) which contains a monk’s graveyard in one corner. This graveyard was quite fascinating with it skull topped enclosure and provided us with some great photo ops.
The Quarto del Priore, which is the apartment used for the reception of important guests, contains some relevant masterpieces including a Madonna col Bambino e San Giovannino by Pietro Bernini.
Surprisingly, we discovered that the monastery houses the Museo Nazional di San Martino which offers a look a many collections. One of my passions is collecting nativity scenes from around the world. Here, the museum showcases their extensive collection, some extremely rare, dating back to the 1800’s.
In another part of the monastery, there are many precious objects, including paintings and bronze sculptures by Neapolitan artists of the 19th century. My favorite part of the exhibit, however, was The Sezione Navale, or Maritime Museum, where many model ships and ship’s instruments were on display. The most appealing was the full-sized Great Barge, used by King Charles of Bourbon in the 1700’s. Other areas offer displays showcasing sculpture and epigraphy and a library on the second floor dedicated to the Prints and Drawings Collections with over 8,000 pieces.
A short walk through the garden was also in order, which offered an overlook to the city. It was a bit overgrown and unkempt leading us to return to the cloistered areas to enjoy the outdoors.
Though this was not the original monastery I had hoped to visit, that being Monastero di Santa Chiara, Certosa e Museo di San Martino was close by and surpassed my expectations.
If anyone is visiting Naples and making the ascent to the Castel Sant’Elmo, save time for a visit to this amazing monastery next door!
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Address: Largo S. Martino, 5, 80129 Napoli NA, Italy
Hours: 0830-1830, Monday to Saturday. 0830-1600, Sunday. Closed Wednesday.
Admission: Full, 6,00€, Reduced, 3,00€
Getting There: Metro, Vanvitelli and then bus V1 to Piazzale San Martino. Bus: C28, C31, or C36 to Piazza Vanvitelli. Funicular: Centrale to Piazza Fuga or Montesanto to Morghen
In ancient times, Naples was called the “city of the seven castles” as it was the only city in the world that boasted seven castles within its boundaries. These castles, Castel dell’Ovo, Castel Nuovo (Maschio Angioino), Castel Sant’Elmo, Castel Capuano, Castello del Carmine, Castello di Nisida and Forte di Vigliena, provided a powerful defense to the Gulf of Naples from attacks by sea.
Three of these castles are located along the coastline in the touristic areas of Naples, near the Piazza del Plebiscito, making it an easy task to visit them in a single day.
Since the Castel Nuovo was located near our hotel (and made for an awesome view from our hotel window!) so we opted to begin our exploration there.
Castel Nuovo’s construction was initiated in 1279 by Carlo I D’Angio during the beginning of Naples’ reign as capital of the region. The modern fortress today appears much as it did upon its inception and was originally called Maschio Angioino. The castel acted as the royal residence and became a center of culture giving hospitality to artists, doctors, scholars and authors. When Alfonso I, of the Aragonese, succeeded the Anjevins, he continued to use the castle as a royal residence but ordered renovations, including the Triumphal Arch, celebrating his victorious entry into the city of Naples.
Upon entering, it was quite impressive to pass through this Triumphal Arch and admire the detailed craftsmanship of both it and the Bronze Gates, ordered by Ferdinand I of Aragon. Entering into the vast courtyard, we admired the high interior walls and proceeded to follow the self-guided tour.
We made our way through the Hall of the Barons, originally the throne room and location where the barons conspired against Ferrante I d’Aragona in 1487, the Palatine Chapel, dedicated to the Assunzione della Vergine and then the Chapel of the “Anime Purganti”, or Purgatory Chapel, which dates back to the 16th century. This small chapel is richly decorated but protected by a glass wall, which limited our proximity to the priceless artwork.
Climbing the stone stairs, we found ourselves at the scenic balcony giving us a beautiful view of the marina and the nearby buildings. The upper floors house exhibitions and cultural events, part of the Municipal Museum of Naples, which also has displays on several floors, including sculptures, paintings and objects from the medieval period to the 19th century. The first floor’s exhibits included works from photographers Fabio Donato and Luciano Ferrara. Most intriguing, however, was the glass floor displaying human remains that were excavated and preserved.
Though we were not able to visit the basement (only possible with a guide), a story I overheard from a tour guide detailed a “crocodile pit”. It was found that occasionally prisoners would disappear and were believed to have been snatched by a crocodile who would grab their leg and drag them out to sea. Speculation was that Queen Giovanna brought the creature to Naples from Egypt on the occasion of her wedding with Giacomo of Bourbon.
Walking along the coastline, passing the Fontana del Gigante (Fountain of the Giants), we made our way to the second fortress, Castel della’Ovo which stands on the islet of Megaride, lending to its untouchable, yet fairy-tale perception. No wonder many brides and grooms decide to take their wedding photos here!
The Castel’s name, truly unique, is one of Neapolitan legends. The castle was named for the egg that Latin poet Virgil apparently hid in a cage in the dungeons of the castle. This egg was kept hidden because the “fortune of the Sea Castle depended on it”.
As we walked along the causeway towards the castle, we noted the marina and the restaurants around the eastern wall, part of the small fishing village, Borgo Marinaro, established in the 19th century.
The castle sits on the site of a previous structure, built by the Normans in the 12th century. After Charles I of Anjou built the new castle and moved his court there, it became the seat of the Royal Chamber and of the State Treasury. Castel dell’Ovo also served as a prison, housing Empress Constance of the Holy Roman Empire (1191, later Queen of Sicily), King Conradin before his trial and execution in 1268 and Queen Joanna I of Naples before here assassination in 1381.
Inside the castle, there are several buildings used for exhibitions and other special events. Aside from a few statues and cannons, the castle’s main features are those that are architectural, however, there are some beautiful views of the city and coast to be had from the upper level.
Moving on, we headed through the Piazza del Plebiscito to the Augusteo subway station. Knowing it would be a difficult task to make it up the immense hill to Castel Sant’Elmo, we boarded the subway/funicular towards Piazza Fuga and then walked the remaining distance.
Dating back to 1275, this castle, which sits high above the city, was originally a church dedicated to St. Erasmus and was transformed into a royal residence. An earthquake, in 1456, caused the collapse of the towers and some of the walls. After interventions by the Aragonese, the castle was transformed into a defensive fortress. Almost a century later, construction commenced which committed the castle to its current configuration, a star-shaped fortress.
The castle, which sits high on a hill above the city, was used as a troop’s garrison, a military prison until the 1950’s and it now houses the Museo del Novecento, dedicated to 20th century Neapolitan art.
This castle was extremely interesting as it fits the image of what you would expect a castle to be, with its drawbridge and dark, interior passages. It is when you reach the upper level, while walking along the ramparts that you discover what makes it so special…the outstanding views of the city and the bay islands.
After admiring the impressive clock tower, we ventured into the Museum for a quick look where we discovered some impressive and sometimes strange pieces. Exiting the rear doors of the museum, the church was directly across the walkway and we stepped in to have a quick look at its simple interior.
Looking out once again at the city from our bird’s eye view, it was now easy to comprehend what a vast city Naples is. Spread out before us, we realized that there was so much we had not had time to see and the afternoon was drawing to a close. Spying a church’s facade next door, we decided that if we were going to see more, it had better close by.
Heading down through the castle, we made our way to the exterior, stopping on the drawbridge, to once again, admire the coat of arms of Charles V with the double-headed eagle at the entrance portal. The clear, blue sky made for a beautiful view as we walked away, through the gates and we marveled at how much history was to be found in Naples.
Only having had the time to discover three of Naples seven castles, we realized that we would have to make time on another trip to see the other four.
Three out of seven wasn’t too bad…right?
Especially because these three were pretty spectacular!
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Because we were so excited to experience Positano, it seemed that it took a lifetime to get there.
Because our feet hurt and we were hot and tired, it seemed like the journey back went wayyyy to quick!
Suddenly…we were back where we started, Sorrento!
Anxious to see this city, we jumped off the bus, despite our aching and sweaty body parts, and headed towards the center of town.
Discovering the Piazza Sant’Antonino, we admired the statue of Sant’Antonino Abate surrounded by palm trees and fronting Sorrento’s Town Hall. The city’s patron saint died in 626 AD and was credited with saving the life of a child swallowed by a whale and protecting Sorrento against plague and invasion. Every year on the anniversary of his death, February 14, a silver statue of Sant’Antonino is carried through the city’s streets accompanied by countless festivities. Throughout the year, respects can be paid to this important saint in the basilica dedicated to him, also in the piazza, across from his statue.
Of course we had to visit this important basilica as should anyone visiting Sorrento…just make sure not to pass it by. The city’s oldest church is quite plain from the outside and could be mistaken for another of the area’s buildings.
Erected in the 11th century on the site of an antique oratory, the basilica is rich in history, art and important artifacts. Upon entering the lobby, there are two whale ribs posted as a memento of the miracle credited to Sant’Antonino. The church’s interior exhibits rich details including columns taken from the numerous Roman country homes in the area, an 11th century gate supported by Corinthian capitals and valuable paintings by Giovanni Bernardi Lama and Giacomo Del Po, both dating back to the 1600s.
The sacristy exhibits two rare treasures, the fragments of an antique terracotta floor and a beautiful Neapolitan Christmas nativity from the 17th century.
The most interesting items in the church, however, reside in the crypt. The tomb of Sant’Antonino is located here as well as an immense collection of votive offerings donated by seamen who have escaped death on the waters where they travel. Though we were not quite sure what they were at first, we found them to be quite fascinating!
Heading toward the coast, we walked past restaurants, shops and colorful homes with the bayside park of Villa Communale in mind, to take in the sweeping views and have a refreshing drink along the waterfront.
Before we arrived, however, we encountered a wedding party emerging from the Chiostro e Chiesa di San Francesco (The San Francesco Cloister). Taking a peek inside the cloister, as the group dispersed, we discovered a peaceful garden, popular for weddings, art exhibits and classical concerts. The church, which we were unable to visit, due to the wedding, was built in the 14th century and is one of the oldest monuments in Sorrento.
Back to our original destination, we found a well manicured park with statues, paths and fountains. It is here that you can take the Sorrento Lift to access Sorrento’s beaches.
Sorrento’s beaches. Let me explain.
As we stood along the overlook, we glanced down at a maze of wharves, umbrellas and changing huts. Here, three beach clubs, Leonelli’s, Marameo and Peter’s, extend from a strip of volcanic sand offering a place for sunseekers to swim and relax. We were fascinated by this colorful concept and again, after enduring the searing August heat all day, wished that we could journey down the cliff to one of these beach clubs. With more to see and a dinner to enjoy, we sadly had to pass.
Continuing on our quest to see all that Sorrento had to offer, we left for the Sorrento Cathedral, which was scheduled to reopen after their afternoon siesta. Along the way, we passed the Sedil Dominova, located behind the main square, where local noblemen would congregate and discuss civil affairs. It is the last surviving ancient noble seat in the Campania region of Southern Italy and today, houses a working men’s club where locals meet to play cards.
Finally arriving at the Sorrento Cathedral, near the main square, we gazed upward at its beautiful, three-story clock tower made up of a base dating back to the Roman Empire. Entering this 11th century Roman Catholic cathedral (rebuilt in the Romanesque style in the 15th century), we gazed around in wonder at the beauty that surrounded us. The church, dedicated to St. James and St. Philip, is filled with beautiful inlaid wood, marble side altars dedicated to various saints, paintings by local Neapolitan artists and an 18th century Neapolitan nativity scene.
In the apse, there is a masterfully inlaid, 19th century choir and under the pulpit, a significant altarpiece by Silvestro Buono, dating back to 1573, known as La Vergine tra San Giovanni Battista e san Giovanni Evangelista (The Virgin Between St. John the Baptist and St. John the Evangelist), among other treasures. Make sure to not miss the secondary entrance with its classic rectangular portal dating back to 1478, the 10th century marble slab with a depiction of a lioness near the entrance and the baptismal font in the first chapel on the right, where Italian writer Torquato Tasso was baptized.
Most important, however, is the 17th century altar dominated by the large wooden crucifix dating from the 15th century. As I walked down the aisle, it was quite captivating, reminding parishioners of the origins of their religious beliefs.
Leaving the cathedral, we realized that we could squeeze in one more Sorrento attraction…the Bastion of Parsano, which had just reopened for the beginning of its summer evening hours. Even before the birth of Christ, Sorrento had defensive walls built to protect it and access to the city was allowed through five entrance gates. A series of towers were built to defend the gates and continued to protect Sorrento during the Middle Ages. The walls were later rebuilt for better protection and visitors to Sorrento can see the remains below the street level at Porta Parsano Nuova, where they are open for public visitation. As we walked around the bastion, we admired the stonework and marveled at how long this line of defense had stood here. It is truly amazing and one of Sorrento’s treasures.
It was finally time to seek out a place to fill our stomachs as we had a train to catch for our return to Naples.
After finally arriving back in Naples and settling down to get some sleep on my cool, clean sheets, I was able to breath a sigh of contentment. We’d had a long day, but to endure the lack of sleep, long travel day and heat of the August day to see two of the amazing towns of the Amalfi Coast…it was all worth it!
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Are there any movies that have a scene that just “sticks” with you?
I have always loved the movie Under the Tuscan Sun. One memorable scene is when the main character, Frances, goes to Positano to meet her amore Marcello.
I had never seen any place quite like the alluring town cascading down the mountainside toward the sea. I remember thinking, that I needed to see this Italian paradise for myself!
It had been sixteen years since I had seen that movie and I had still not made it to Positano. Since my son and I were staying in Naples, we decided that we would make the journey to Positano to fulfill my dream of visiting this beautiful town on the Amalfi Coast.
Taking the same Circumvesuviana train that we had taken a couple of days before to Pompeii, we continued on, past that stop, to Sorrento. Here, we purchased tickets for the City Sightseeing bus to Positano. The winding journey along the coast was picturesque, alternating between grassy fields, small towns, mountain passes and ocean views. Thirty-five minutes later, as we drove along a cliffside road, Positano suddenly came into view…and it was breathtaking!
As we were dropped off along the main road, we headed on foot toward the town’s center. It was hard to make headway on the narrow sidewalks clogged with throngs of tourists and because every few feet, we had to stop at the many spectacular overlooks.
There it was! The quaint and colorful Italian town of Positano…defying gravity and clinging to the cliffs of the Amalfi coast!
Scanning the map we had grabbed at the Sorrento train station, we decided to head toward the town’s center. Turning on to the pedestrian friendly Viale Passitea, we ducked into the small church on the corner. Finding it to be charming, yet unassuming, our visit was short as we were anxious to see what lay in store for us further down the steep path down to the coast.
The walkway, at times, was covered by beautiful trellises covered with bougainvillea, keeping us cooler during the heat of the day, and we passed an endless number of shops selling artwork, clothing, shoes and gifts. There were boutiques, art galleries, ceramic shops and many artists working on their craft. Moving with the crowds, it was impossible to take it all in!
Eventually, we found ourselves in the heart of Positano, the seafront, with its many restaurants lining the boardwalk and its golden beach filled with hundreds of sun seekers, hoping to bring home a souvenir tan.
The Church of Santa Maria Assunta, with its iconic multi-colored dome, lies parallel to the azur waters of the Tyrrhenian Sea and the Marina Grande and from its piazza, set higher on the cliff, it is a popular spot to look out over the seaside.
Heading inside to snag a reprieve from the heat, we found the beauty of this church, dating back to the 10th century abbot it once was, to be quite spectacular.
Santa Maria Assunta was established when a Byzantine icon of the Blessed Virgin was brought to Positano by the order of the Benedictines. Part of the cargo of a sailing ship from the East, the icon was credited with a miracle. Stopped by a dead calm and unable to sail, the sailors heard a voice calling out, “Posa! Posa!” (“Put me down”). Interpreting the words to mean that that they were to head to shore, it was then that the ship was able to sail once again and headed to the small community that eventually gained it’s name, Positano, from the Virgin’s words. The Virgin was given to the residents who chose her as their patron and built a church in her honor.
After a falling into disrepair, restorations began in the late 1700’s and lasted five years when Archbishop Antonio Puoti crowned the Virgin’s icon with a golden crown. Today, the statue of the Madonna is heavily guarded in St. Stephen’s chapel but is displayed on the main altar (as it was was during our visit), on special religious occasions and carried in procession on the beach on August 15…disappointing that we would miss this important celebration a few days away.
Amidst the interior, which boasts a nave, two aisles and five arches, there are five chapels on each side. On the right, you can admire the chapels of St. Blaise, the Immaculate Conception, St. Anthony, and St. Anne followed by the Altar of the Circumcision on the right end. Displayed here is the rare painting, Circumcision by Fabrizio Santafede dating back to 1599.
“Circumcision” by Fabrizio Santafede
Above the high altar is the Byzantine icon of the Blessed Virgin. To the right, is the Chapel of St. Stephen, which in addition to usually housing the Madonna statue, also displays one of the most valuable works of art in the Amalfi Coast; the embossed silver reliquary bust of St. Vito, dating back to the 16th century. The chapel also contains relics of other martyrs.
The Chapel of St. StephenThe Bust of St. Vitus
Make sure not to miss the two niches on each side of the apse which house Our Lady of Sorrows on the right and a valuable Christ at the column (1798) on the left, the chapel of the Blessed Sacrament to the left of the high altar and the altar of Our Lady of Mount Carmel which contains a beautiful painting from the Chartreuse of Serra San Bruno in Calabria. The chapels of the Crucifixion, the Annunciation, St. Vito and St. Nicholas of Bari are located along the left aisle.
When exiting the church, take a glance upwards at the majestic organ above the central door in the choir and check out the baptismal font in the right corner.
There are many treasures throughout this historic church and you should allow yourself enough time to wander freely. Even outside, you can take note of the belltower, which was built in 1707, and above the belltower door a medieval bas-relief portraying the seven fish and a wolf mermaid. Above the relief, a stone dating back to 1902, remembers Flavio Gioia of Positano, the inventor of the compass.
Heading toward the Spiaggia Grand (Big Beach), it was tempting to shed out outer layers for a quick, refreshing dip, however, we didn’t want to shell out money for umbrellas on the private side (left) for such a short time and the public side (right) was quite congested. Besides, if we got all wet and sandy, it would make the rest of our afternoon and evening, which was to include dinner in Sorrento, a bit uncomfortable.
So…we opted for gelato instead!
After our frosty treat, we glanced out at three of the thirty watchtowers that once protected the Amalfi coast from Saracen pirates. These towers were all within sight of each other and communication warning of danger was in the form of smoke signals.
We then headed west along the Via Positanesi D’America, a small lane that runs along the coast towards the Positano’s small beach, Fornillo, where the locals go to escape the tourist crowds. It was hot, but we were rewarded with beautiful views of the azur waters and a close-up view of the Torre Trasita (16th century), one of the historical watchtowers, located on the rocky cliff. Today, this tower operates as a guesthouse and rooms can be rented by the night for a unique experience on the Amalfi Coast.
Fornillo Beach
Fornillo Beach
Realizing that much of our day had flown by, it was time to head back to the bus stop and to Sorrento.
Though there are so many beautiful towns to explore past Positano (Praiano, Amalfi, Ravello), time was not on our side. If we wanted to discover Sorrento, it was time to say arrivederci to Positano.
Though Positano was positively stunning and we enjoyed our visit, I do have to admit that it was not quite as I envisioned because I had first experienced it from a cinematic point of view…no crowds, no soul-sucking summertime heat, no Marcello… Although a little disillusioned, I did have to stop and remind myself that we were visiting the Amalfi Coast during one of the most busy times of the year. Getting a taste of it made me realize what it could be at another time.
So, yes, it was not goodbye…it was definitely until I see Positano again!
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Pickup point Sorrento, Piazza di Curtis, behind the Circumvesuviana train station. Drop off in Positano is Spoda bus stop.
Fare: The 1st “Coast to Coast” line ticket is priced at €10.00 per person, one way. Return ticket can be purchased for €6.00 by showing the €10.00 ticket purchased on the same day. If you need to other trips on the same day the cost will always be €6.00.
During the height of the summer, Capri is the place to be…and we were there!
We were on one of the coolest islands in Italy and there was so much to explore and discover.
Despite being able to visit one of the main attractions on the island upon our arrival, it had eaten up a great portion of our precious time. Heading to the Funicular, we purchased tickets and waiting to board the railway up the mountainside to the Piazza Umberto I, in the center of the island.
Crowded and hot, we were still able to secure a spot near the window to watch the passing scenery. Exiting the tight cars, we stood along the gallery and gazed out at the island and the Marina Grande below.
Walking through the Piazza Umberto I, with its classic clock tower, we imagined that this was where we might spot Oprah or Brad Pitt that evening, as we had heard they were both moored off of the island. Entering the small alleyways, we passed Chiesa San Stefano, the prominent baroque Catholic church that houses Capri’s town hall in its old bishop quarters. The church was not open, so we continued on to the southern part of the island.
Passing the many high-end boutiques, shops, restaurants and homes, we eventually found ourselves at the Certosa di San Giacomo (St. James Charterhouse), the 14th century Carthusian monastery.
Built in 1371 by Giacomo Arcucci (who later became a monk of the order), on land donated by Queen Giovanna I of Angio, the Charterhouse of San Giacomo is the oldest historic building on the island of Capri.
Gaining our entrance at the office near the fortified tower, we made our way through the complex which is comprised of three blocks of buildings. The first building offered us a look at a unique art collection of the Diefenbach Museum (est. 1975) which included the works of German painter Karl Wilhelm Diefenbach.
Continuing through the complex, we discovered the Chiostro Piccolo (small cloister), which was added during the sixteenth century and the Chiostro Grande with its limestone pillars. It was here around the grand cloister that the monks cells were located as well as the Quarto del Priore used for temporary exhibitions.
Making our way through the gardens, we found them to be a bit overgrown, but the reward was at the cliffside where we had the most magnificent views of the coastline and the sea.
Here was Brad Pitt and Oprah’s yachts…or so we thought! Some of the biggest boats I had ever lain eyes on were docked in the azur waters that surrounded the island. So beautiful were the sights below us, we sat here in the sunshine, just enjoying the moment of the day!
Eventually, we made our way back toward the monastery and the large, open church where ancient frescoes can be seen on the walls and ceiling.
As our visit came to a close, we decided that we wanted to enjoy the waters up close that we had seen from above. Taking the funicular back to the Marina Grande, we walked to the small, rocky beach, Cala Grande.
Although there was so much more to see…Anacapri, Mount Solaro and its chairlift, Grotto Verde, Arco Naturale, Villas and countless overlooks…it was impossible to experience it all. It was nice to just give in to the island’s natural beauty and enjoy the remainder of the afternoon, soaking up the late afternoon sun.
Sometimes that’s what you have to do. Enjoy what you’ve been given and just “be”.
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Address: 80076 Capri, Metropolitan City of Naples, Italy. The line connects the Marina Grande on the coast with the Piazza Umberto I in the center of the island.
Hours: May 1000-1800. June, July and August 1000-1900. September-October 1000-1700. November, December, January, February and March 0900-1530. Closed Mondays.
Admission: Adults 6.00€, EU citizens under 18, free, EU citizens 18 to 25 years, 3.00€
When reading the tabloids, it is always fun to read about the awesome places that celebrities dock their yachts while on vacation!
While I would just love to have a small sailboat to dock in these locations, even for a day, I thought it would be fun to head out to one of those islands and see where those multi-million dollar yachts are anchored. Capri, located in the Tyrrhenian Sea has been a resort since the time of the Roman Republic and is a place where celebrity spotting becomes sport, especially in the square in the evenings as they leave their expensive floating homes for some ground time.
The ferry to Capri was located just down the block from our hotel and easy to get to, so we decided to make that one of our day’s destinations. Purchasing our tickets quickly, we were on the next departing ferry and forty-five minutes later pulling into Capri’s Marina Grande.
Our first views of Capri’s harbor were stunning! It would have been tempting to just take a seat along the waterfront to take in the scenery but we were on a mission and there was a lot to see before catching our departing ferry that evening.
One of the main attractions that we wanted to mark off of our list was the Blue Grotto (Grotto Azzurra), a cave-like cavity within the islands rocky parapets. Once inside the grotto, the sunlight entering the opening beneath the inlet passage give an intense azur color to the water. Spotting the ticket booth for the Blue Grotto boat tours, I knew that there were two ways to visit this primary attraction; bus and boat. Since the boats were departing here, it seemed like the logical choice to take the boat and after the boarding was complete, we headed out of the harbor and along the island’s northern coast.
The fifteen minute ride offered up beautiful views of the villas that top the high rocky cliffs that make up much of the island’s coastline. Finally spotting a cluster of boats, we realized that we had arrived at the Blue Grotto. Jockeying for position, we began to analyze the situation…there were a lot of boats, with a lot of people…waiting to board a small number of rowboats to gain entry into the cave.
Every time our captain moved our boat, we somehow thought we might be closer to our time to board one of the rowboats. Spying the buses dropping visitors at the top of the cliff and those visitors making their way down the wooden stairway, we began to notice that because of their proximity to the cave’s entrance and dedicated rowboats, their wait was quite short. Watching their quick movement and continually counting the boats around us, we realized that our stay here would be lengthy.
It was an extremely hot and sunny day and we had limited shade on our boat. We suddenly realized that although our boat ride to the Blue Grotto was cool and picturesque, maybe we should have taken the bus. After an hour and a half of tortuous waiting, the rowboats finally began to approach our boat. Deftly stepping into the tender, our boatman guided us over to the craft where the cave entrance admission was collected. After gathering our tickets, we headed toward the opening, our gondolier instructing us to lay down into the bottom of the boat. Pulling us through the tight opening with a guide rope, it took a few minutes for our eyes to adjust to the darkness all around us.
There were no fewer than ten other boats making their way around the small cave’s perimeter (25 meters wide and 60 meters long). As our boatman turned our craft towards the entrance, we gazed in awe at the fluorescent color of the water. An awesome sight! Our time was inside was short and before we knew it, we were laying down at the bottom of the boat to make our way outside, back to our waiting shuttle and to Marina Grande.
Checking our watches, we realized that much of our time on Capri had been devoted to that one activity. Grabbing a quick lunch, we then headed back to the ferry ticket booths. Thankfully, with the help of a kind ticket agent, we were able to switch our return tickets to Naples to ones leaving a couple of hours later…giving us some more precious time on the island.
Glad for our reprieve we decided not to waste any more time. Capri had so much more to see!
For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.
Hours: 0900-1700, daily. The grotto is closed to visitors during rough seas or high winds, and it’s always closed on December 25th and January 1st.
Admission: Shared boat service, 10€ plus cave entrance (cash only) paid prior to entering, 4€. Tip is expected from the boatmen. Children under the age of 6, cave entrance, free. Citizens of European Union under the age of 18, cave entrance, free. Citizens of European Union between the ages of 18 and 25, 50% reduction on cave entrance.
Getting There: Private boat (boat rentals located near Marina Grande. Shared boat service. Bus, from Anacapri, stop located 50 meters from Piazza Vittoria. On foot from Anacapri, follow Viale T. de Tommaso, Via Pagliaro and Via Grotta Azzurra (3.5 km).
We had climbed Pacaya volcano in the spring and with Mount Vesuvius hovering in the distance, well…there was just no question…we had to climb it as well!
After our arrival in Naples, I had seen many tour companies advertising trips with transportation to and from Mount Vesuvius. Our first full day had been put aside for Pompeii and we assumed that we would take the next day to tackle the imposing mountain, however, when we arrived, we found that we could leave from the Pompeii train station for a trip to the volcano. Was it a good idea? Maybe.
After our investigation of the ancient ruins was complete, we signed up for the three o’clock departure from the Pompeii train station. Transportation was on a large, air conditioned bus and the winding journey lasted about forty minutes, dropping us at the entrance to Mount Vesuvius National Park.
We were given one and a half hours to make the ascent and return to our bus for the trip back to Pompeii.
Half and hour up the crater trail.
Half an hour around the rim.
Half and hour back down.
Not a problem. We were already ahead of schedule, being able to squeeze in Vesuvius on a day that we thought would only be devoted to Pompeii.
The trail was steep, but nothing that we couldn’t handle. If there was ever any doubt, however, I just watched the Russian woman a few paces ahead, making her way daintily up the dusty path in her kitten heels! We were glad, however, that the buses had the advantage of parking near the entrance to the trail, unlike those who arrive by car and were required to park further down the mountain.
The scenery was outstanding as we began our ascent and it only got better as we made it to the rim. Peering into the crater was quite thrilling, yet a bit uneventful. Maybe I expected a rush of hot air and a churning cauldron of lava! Instead, there were high walls with loose rocks cascading down into the interior and resting on the floor of the crater. Still, how often do you get to peer into a volcano…and as we spied some escaping steam, we had to remember that it was still a live one!
Continuing our hike around the rim, we encountered some small memorials, more views of the caldera and spectacular vistas of Naples, the sweeping bay and Pompeii.
The well groomed path finally culminated at the souvenir shop, La Capannuccia, where we grabbed some water and stopped to enjoy the wind in our hair and the sun dipping lower on the horizon.
Checking the time, we realized that it was time to head back down the path to our waiting bus.
Not seeing the bus in the parking area, we noticed many of the other visitors that had ridden over with us, searching for our return transportation, as well. While waiting for the bus to arrive, we noticed a bus marked for Naples. It was tempting but we had no clue if there was space on the bus or where the bus would drop us in Naples. We also had return transportation to Pompeii and then return train tickets back to Naples. Before we could check to see if we had enough money for this direct transfer, the bus pulled away, making us wish we had done a bit more planning, but then, there was our bus to Pompeii pulling into the lot.
So much for being ahead of schedule!
All in all, without my usual Plan A, B and C, we did get to see both attractions, Pompeii and Mount Vesuvius, leaving us free to continue our exploration of the Amalfi Coast the next day! But, if you plan to visit both of these amazing places from Naples or Sorrento in the same day, be sure to leave early and explore all transportation options.
Take it from us! It’s worth the extra effort to knock them out on the same day!
For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.
Hours: January, February, November, December, daily from 0900 to 1500, March, October, 0900-1600, April, May, June, September, 0900-1700, July, August, 0900-1800. Barring inclement weather or unforeseen circumstances, the trail to the crater is open all year round, including Sundays and holidays.
Admission: Adults, 10€, Students 8€
Getting There: By car, take the A3 Napoli-Salerno highway to the Torre del Greco or Herculaneum exit, and follow the signs for Vesuvio. At 800 meters above sea level, there is a parking area that costs 5€ for all day. Shuttles to the ticket office depart from here, and cost 2€ (free for children). It is a bit of a steep climb to the ticket office so taking the shuttle is recommended. By public transport, you can take the bus or shuttle from CIrcumvesuviana Pompei-Villa dei Misteri stop or the Circumvesuviana Ercolano Scavi stop. Buses and shuttles cost 22€ round trip, entrance to the park included with transportation directly to the ticket office located about 200 meters below the trail head for the crater. There are also EAV bus routes between Pompeii and Mount Vesuvius every 50 minutes.
With Mount Vesuvius looming over the city it was only a matter of time.
The story of the destruction of Pompeii has intrigued me for as long as I can remember. The thought of the citizens being buried from the ash descending from the volcano’s fiery lava, is something nightmares are made of. Having recently hiked to a nearby ridge of Guatemala’s Volcan Pacaya, I watched the lava flow quickly down it’s slopes and felt the heat emanating from the lava’s rocks. What if something causes the lava flow to change direction…my direction? Certainly, this is what the citizens of Pompeii must have thought. Only that time…it did.
For years, while visiting Rome, it was difficult knowing I was so close to Pompeii, but never having sufficient time to make the hour and a half journey. This time, I was in Naples and I had ample time. This was my chance.
Rising early, we made our way on the metro to Naples’ train station. Following directions to the Circumvesuviana train, we purchased tickets and waited patiently for the train which would take us to Pompeii. To say we were excited was an understatement and as we pulled into the station, we decided to join a tour group to make the most of our visit.
Following our tour guide into the maze of streets and buildings, we learned that in 79 AD, the cities of Pompeii and Herculaneum were buried under as much as twenty feet of volcanic ash and pumice when Mount Vesuvius erupted, preserving the cities as they once were. This was the most surprising to me as I had always envisioned that most of Pompeii would be in ruins.
In 1763, Pompeii was uncovered and identified. A year later, excavations, let by Karl Weber and then, Francisco la Vega began. Preserved under the layers of ash, the wealthy city was frozen as it was on that fateful day. Fine public buildings, luxurious homes, furnishings, works of art and human bodies were entombed in the ash. Yet, no petrified human bodies that I had envisioned. Instead, where the bodies were entombed, voids were left leaving the archaeologists to fill and use as molds to make plaster casts of these individuals in their final moments of life.
As we walked along the UNESCO World Heritage Site, we discovered that as the ash buried the city, it preserved it almost immaculately. Many homes and buildings lined the cobblestones streets, some still sporting their roofs and all four walls. Inside these buildings, there were some with artwork still view-able as well as ancient graffiti carved on the walls and inside rooms. Along the outsides of many buildings there were paintings and words, believed to have been a sort of newspaper for the citizens, changing often and informing of current events.
Casa di Fabius Amandio
Casa di Fabius Amandio
Fullonica di Stephanus (laundry)
One of the first sites we visited was the Triangular Forum, which garners its name from its unusual shape. Entering through a monumental corridor we were lead into a triangular square surrounded by a 95 column colonnade surrounding an open area, making for some spectacular photographs. Our guide explained that the wide corridor might have been used as a running track or for horse races held during religious festivals.
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Exiting the Triangular Forum, we found ourselves near a large theater. Although the entrance was a tight one, we waited patiently to enter the small shaft entering the semi-circular stands fronting a theater stage. Standing on the stairs, we were trying to get a great selfies when we heard singing. A great testament to the amazing acoustics of the theater, we listened intently as one of the visitors stood on the theater stage and belted out an operatic solo! Truly a beautiful moment!
Gran TeatroGran Teatro
One of the most interesting (and popular) sites we visited was the ancient lupanar, more commonly known in today’s terms as the brothel. Though not known whether the frescoes that decorate the upper walls were descriptions of what customers could order or just decoration, they were fascinating to see along with the stone beds.
Lupanar (brothel)
Heading toward the Forum, we found it quite crowded as it probably was during its heyday. The Forum was the main center of life in Pompeii, where citizens met to shop and exchange information as well as experience religious and commercial events. It was here that we were able to see some of the plaster casts of the residents who were consumed by the ash and pumice. A very eerie sight indeed, one appeared to be asleep and another in a prayer-like pose. Though I had anticipated seeing these figures, I had thought they would be scattered throughout the site, not behind bars, however, I later learned that at the rear of the ancient site, in the Garden of the Fugitives, there are 13 preserved casts of the citizens that died there in the vineyard.
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In the middle of the Forum we found the Temple of Apollo, one of the oldest religious buildings of Pompeii. Though the statues found here are replicas (the originals now reside at the Archaeological Museum of Naples), it is one of the most important parts of the site, as it was in this location that different gods were worshiped, including Apollo and Mercury.
Temple of ApolloTemple of ApolloTemple of Apollo
It was here, in the Forum, that we parted ways with our guide who left us with some ideas on other parts of Pompeii to visit. Following her advice, we headed to the nearby Forum Baths. The interior of these baths are well preserved, and it is possible to discern how the baths were heated when they were still in use. Though they are the smallest of all the bath ruins in Pompeii, they were the most elegant and included separate entrances for men and women.
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The largest house in Pompeii (30,000 square feet) is named for the unique statue in the front courtyard, The Dancing Faun, which we immediately noticed upon our entrance. The House of Faun was built in the 2nd century BC and is the most complete surviving example of a wealthy and luxurious private residence. As we walked throughout the remains of the grand home, there were many mosaics including one depicting a battle scene; the Alexander Mosaic. Today, what is seen is a re-creation, with the original residing in the Archaeology Museum of Naples.
House of the Dancing FaunHouse of the Dancing FaunHouse of the Dancing Faun
Moving through the streets, we entered many structures; shops, homes, latrines. What we headed for next, however, was located at the far western part of the city…the oldest surviving Roman amphitheater in existence…the Pompeii Spectacula. This was the first Roman amphitheater built of stone and constructed over a century before Rome’s famous Colosseum. This immense amphitheater could seat the entire population of Pompeii and hosted all the sporting events in the city.
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Though seeing the venue of ancient sporting events was quite thrilling, we were more impressed with the large exhibit in the interior tunnels detailing another important event held there in 1972…Pink Floyd: Live at Pompeii, a concert documentary film which featured the band performing in the ancient site. Why Pompeii’s ancient amphitheater? Many photographs detailed the event, yet the most compelling part of the exhibit was the story of how the director of the film dropped his passport while visiting Pompeii. Sneaking in after hours to find it, he was mesmerized by the deserted amphitheater and its silence…he decided then and there that it would make an excellent backdrop for the band’s music. As they say, the rest is history.
The Grand Palestra was next door and offered a place to get out of the intense early afternoon heat. Offering an art exhibit in one of its interior halls, we admired the wide array of modern craftsmanship before admiring the picturesque open area that was used as an exercise park and a place for youth groups. A place for sports and games, it also housed a pool for swimming.
Walking among the tombs of the Necropolis of Porta Nocera, we headed back among the maze of streets, gardens and buildings. Pompeii is such a massive archaeological site that there was so much more that we would not get to discover.
Because we had hired a tour guide, we were not given a map, being told that there were a shortage and only those purchasing an audio guide were allowed to take one. This made it quite difficult to explore all parts of the site and comprehend exactly what we were seeing. Though we searched for a “basilica” as per our tour guides instructions, we could not find what we thought we were searching for as we expected to find a church. Indeed we did find The Basilica, a lavish building used for business and the administration of justice, we did not realize our discovery until later.
Despite our directional shortcomings, we did see a great deal of Pompeii, however, to fully see the entire site, a full day or more should be allotted. With Herculaneum and Mount Vesuvius nearby and limited time allowed in our schedule, we eventually had to come to the conclusion that we had seen all that we could.
Pompeii, Italy’s lost city, is something that all visitors to southern Italy should take the time to see. More impressive than I could ever imagine, we were dazzled with all that we experienced and realized that this archaeological site was one that could be seen on multiple occasions while still discovering new items of interest.
Pompeii was once Italy’s lost city…lost to the forces of nature, but found again to be learned from and explored by future generations.
Just make sure you download a map and have a plan.
Pompeii may have once been lost, but you don’t have to be!
For more pictures check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.
Address: Via Traversa Andolfi 20, 80045 Pompeya, Italia, 80045
Hours: March 1-November 31, daily, 0900-1700 (last admission 1530), April 1-October 31, daily, 0900-1930 (last admission 1800). Saturday and Sunday, opening 0830. Closed January 1, May 1 and December 25.
Admission: Adult, €15.00, Reduced €9.00. First Sunday of each month, October thru March, admission is free.
Getting There: Circumvesuviana train from Naples and Sorrento, Pompei Scavi – Villa Dei Misteri station. Trains run every 30 minutes and costs €2.80. By bus, SITA from Naples and Salerno, CSTP #4 from Salerno, CSTP from Salerno #50 (express highway). By car, motorway A3, Napoli-Salerno (exit Pompeii west).
Tips: Bring water, especially during the summer months as it gets extremely hot. No large backpacks. Be prepared for massive crowds, especially during the summer months. There is a food venue behind the Forum offering options for lunch and many restaurants near the entrance.
How many vacations can a person go on in one year?
As many as you can!
First it was Greece and now it was time for Naples!
I had just returned from an amazing trip to Greece but now it was time to go to work and Rome…you know, make some money to pay for all that delicious moussaka that I had consumed over the course of ten days and top off those pounds with multiple scoops of gelato.
My middle son had not been able to join us on our Greek sojourn due to educational obligations over the summer and was anxious to travel somewhere with me for a few days. I decided that I would have him meet me in New York after my return from Rome and we would decide on a location for a few days. Dakar was our first choice but the flight filled up, leaving us to make another decision. Malaga was a possiblitity, but shortly after I landed from Rome, he informed me that he was “feeling like Italy”.
Oh, okay…if we must!
So, we boarded the flight and I went right back to where I had just returned.
It wasn’t a hard decision! However, since I have been to Rome many times, it was time to see something different…Naples and the Amalfi Coast.
Upon landing, we headed to Rome’s Termini Station and boarded a westbound train to Naples, quickly making a hotel reservation along the way.
Now, unless I’m confusing it with some other Italian city, it did not seem like Naples had ever gotten rave reviews from other travelers that I had spoken to. What I have learned over the years, however, is to try things out for yourself. What is good for the goose, is not always good for the gander!
Arriving on a Sunday, we made our way to our hotel and then set out to explore the area around the water’s edge. There were two impressive castles nearby…Castel Nuovo and Castel del Ovo, but sadly, we found them to be closed.
Castel Nuovo
Castel Nuovo
Castel del Ovo
Enjoying the sunny, hot afternoon, we walked along the water’s edge, watching longingly as the locals enjoyed the sunshine and refreshing waters from the rocks and from their boats.
Admiring the infamous Mount Vesuvius from afar, we passed parks, statues, monuments and the Galleria Umberto, finally arriving in Piazza del Plebiscito (Square of the People), an immense space that houses the royal palace on one side and on the other by the neoclassical facade of the church of San Francesco di Paola.
Galleria Umberto
Walking past the equestrian statues that stand in front of the church, (one depicting Ferdinand I of Bourbon and the other, Charles III of Bourbon), we made our way towards the Palazzo Reale.
Church of San Francesco di Paola
Stopping the admire the eight statues of the most famous Kings of Naples, in the niches on the facade, we made our way to the side entrance hoping the find it open. As luck would have it, it was and we eagerly ducked inside, anxious to escape the oppressive August heat.
Palazzo Reale
Built in 1600, the extensive palace was originally intended as the residence of King Philip III of Spain for his visits to Naples, however, it became the official residence of Viceroy Fernando Ruiz de Castro, earl of Lemos and his wife after 1734. Designed by Domenico Fontana, a prominent Italian architect, the building suffered damage during a fire in 1837 but eventually was restored by Gaetano Genovese.
After walking through the vaulted porticoes, we accessed the main entry with its immense staircase with twin ramps and coffered dome overhead.
Meandering through the richly appointed spaces, we encountered grand halls and chambers, many retaining their original works of art, tapestries, paintings, period furniture and fine porcelain. The highlights of the palace were the Throne Room, the Court Theater, the Royal Apartments and the Oratory (the queen’s personal chapel)…all lending to our understanding of the Italian royal life.
As the afternoon came to a close, despite our excitement of discovering this magnificent city, the effects of a long night of travel were starting to grab hold our reserves. There was so much to see and experience, but if we were not going to slumber through dinnertime, we decided we needed a bit of rest. Tomorrow would be a big day for checking things off of my personal bucket list, but on this night, after our nap, it would be important to seek out Naples’ famous margarita pizza!
For more pictures check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.
Address: Piazza del Plebiscito, 1, 80132 Napoli NA, Italy
Hours: 0900-2000, Closed Wednesday
Admission: Full €6.00, Reduced €2.00 (citizens of European Union ages 18-25), Online tickets, reservation fee: € 2.00. Free, European and non-European citizens under 18 years. Free first Sunday each month from October through March and on the following dates, March 14, April 1, May 6, June 3, July 11, August 5, September 2, September 19.
Getting There: Bus ANM R1 Via San Carlo stop, Bus ANM R3 Via San Carlo stop, Bus ANM C4 Piazza Treiste e Trento stop
