Just because ruin has befallen something doesn’t mean it isn’t still beautiful.
The Belmead on the James dates back to 1845 when renowned American architect Alexander Jackson Davis, designed it for an eventual Civil War Brigadier General, Colonal Philip St. George Cocke. The Gothic Revival style plantation home was was built by enslaved people and set on 2,265 of rolling acres in Virginia’s historic Powhatan.
Now, here’s the part that the Catholic schoolgirl in me, gets excited…
In 1897, the Belmead was purchased by Mother Katharine Drexel, one of only two American-born Roman Catholic saints, and her sister, both nuns. The Sisters of the Blessed Sacrament transformed the plantation into two private schools, St. Francis de Sales, in a nearby Gothic towered building and St. Emma Agricultural and Industrial Institute on the Belmead property, both devoted to educating young African American and Native American students. Many distinguished students hailed from the two schools, including members of the world-class Tuskegee Airmen and Civil Rights leaders.
The school remained in operation until the 1970s. Most of the more than forty school buildings were destroyed, but three of the major historic structures still stand today. The Belmead mansion, a stone granary and St. Francis de Sales High School have fallen into disrepair, but one must always remember that beauty is in the eye of the beholder.
The photographer that set up the President’s Heads photo shoot that I had recently attended, John Plaschal, has an affinity for deterioration. Not only has he made a quite a name for himself by regularly attracting visitors to these presidential capitulums, he hosts weekend shoots at the historic sites of the Belmead and St. Francis de Sales.
The mansion is not ordinarily open to the general public, only through a partnership with John Plaschal photography, and it was truly a blessing to see it as in its current condition, it seems that its days may be numbered.
Beginning my exploration in the basement, I made my way through its ominous, darkened hallways and rooms, noting the closed-off stairways and ferns growing from the floors.
The main floor showcased many rooms including a kitchen, a sitting room and a library. Of particular fascination was the parlor, where a giant mirror lay in pieces on the floor in front of the fireplace. Though no one had been in the house since John’s last visit, it was considered odd that the mirror had fallen on its own from its secure place on the wall, its hook still in place. John explained that it is believed that the house is haunted by its original owner and they assumed that he may have been the cause. Though I never felt anything strange presences while in the building, I wouldn’t count the possibility out as with the case in many aged buildings.
As I made my way up the circular staircase, I was struck by how sad this once grand estate felt. The busted doors, cracked walls and what remained of the outdated interior finishings depicted a mere shadow of its former self.
Once I had finished my tour of the home, I made my way to the outside to analyze its facade. The colorful, diamond-shaped etched and stained glass windows highlighted its walls and numerous chimneys graced its roofline. The rear of the building, with its covered entryway, was where I began my investigation, but it was the front of the mansion that was the most captivating with its gothic tower.
Next, I headed to the nearby cemetery, Memorial Circle and the overgrown water tower all nestled deep in the woods. Alone on the dirt road, surrounded by a dense thicket of trees, it was a bit creepy knowing that just down the way was the location where a Halloween haunted drive was being set up for a scary night’s festivities. I have watched enough horror movies to know that these types of locations are where things go awry! The Memorial Circle was extremely weird with random pieces of yard furniture and decaying statues were displayed amongst the natural landscape. I made quick work of photographing the area and walked briskly back to the Belmead, breathing a sigh of relief when I reached the crumbling amphitheater.
Making my way back toward the house, I got into my car and drove past the front of the mansion towards the granary. Parking my car once again, I made my way around the granary and through the barn. There were some interesting old pieces of farm equipment and old gas pumps on the premises as well as old signs collecting dust inside of the barn.
Finally, I decided to head to the much anticipated St. Francis de Sales. As I was headed back to the main road, crossing an old bridge, I spied a cemetery on the left side of the road. Pulling over, I walked up the hill to explore the historic cemetery located there. Deeply moved, I wandered around amongst the rusting, simple white crosses that dotted the landscape. These were the graves of the people who created the Belmead plantation. Noting a plaque attached to a large boulder, I learned that these graves dated back as far as 1853 and contained both young and old. Their work of art was crumbling much the same as their grave markers.
It was sad to see a once beautiful property aging very ungracefully, yet it was exciting to be able to be one of the few allowed to experience it and to be able to capture its fading beauty. Maybe with enough attention, helped along by John Plaschal, some historic society will be able to restore it once again.
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The interstate is usually the way to travel for efficiency, but sometimes, the most picturesque scenery is on the highways and backroads.
Veteran’s Day is one that is taken very seriously in Wyoming and South Dakota. Though it worked in my favor at Devil’s Tower, gaining me free admission, it also made it a bit difficult to find a place to have lunch. In a area of the state, where there isn’t an abundance of fast food, the best option is to support the local establishments and on this day, some of the few available were closed in observance.
Instead of heading back to the interstate, I decided to head over to the nearby town of Hulett, grab a bite to eat and then take route 24 to Belle Fourche, South Dakota, my next stop.
What a great detour! There’s no other way to put it…Huelett resembles a movie set. If the main street was made of dirt, you would almost expect to see covered wagons and horseback riders passing through and securing their rides to hitching posts. Filled with charm and only 445 residents, it is actually one of the larger towns in the area and where you would hang your hat if you desire to spend the night near Devil’s Tower.
A general store, market, campground, two hotels, museum, art gallery and restaurants are all available here. It’s also a good place to fill up your tank before heading out on the open roads.
After grabbing a quick bite to eat, I began my trek back to South Dakota.
The day was bright and sunny and generally a beautiful, scenic drive. Occasionally, I ran into historic markers detailing past events like Custer’s 1874 Expedition. Over 1,000 men were sent under the direction of General George Armstrong Custer in 1874 to these Black Hills, to scout for a new fort location. The discovery of gold, however, had major impact on the area with miners rushing to harvest the bounty and ultimately helping to open the northeast Wyoming Territory to settlement, with towns like Hulett and others springing up quickly.
Now, if I thought Hulett was a tiny town, Aladdin was even smaller…population 15! Standing at the crossroads of routes 24 and 11 is the Aladdin General Store which dates back to 1896 and was originally called the Wyoming Mercantile. It is now the heart of the community.
About one and a half miles east of the town is the Aladdin Coal Tipple, a historical site which dates back to the late 1800s. The area is fenced off for safety reasons, but placards provide an overview of the coal mining in the area and the purpose of the tipple. There is a small parking area and a path leading up the hill for a different view of the hoist house and the opening of the mine.
Jumping back on route 24, I continued my journey until I reached the South Dakota border once again. Though I had to adhere to a tight schedule due to the shortened winter day, I still had a few stops planned in South Dakota.
Wyoming had not been in my original plans, but I am glad that I was pointed in that direction. There were many areas of geological interest that I had to pass by, due to lack of time, like the Vore Buffalo Jump. Wyoming is home to many dinosaur and paleontology attractions throughout the state such as the Wyoming Dinosaur Center, the University of Wyoming Geological Museum, the Tate Geological Museum at Casper College and the Paleon Museum in Glenrock. And of course, 96 percent of the amazing Yellowstone Park is located in Wyoming. There is a lot to see and do!
Time to make a plan for my return trip!
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Having been away from work for a while, due to the Covid restrictions, I was desperately craving different scenery. As a flight attendant, I am used to spending my weekends in some far away city, dining in the piazzas, walking the streets and soaking up the culture.
Deciding to tackle some local attractions, I headed over to Maymont park to walk around for some sunshine, fresh air and exercise. While I had visited this park on many occasions in the past, I had forgotten how some parts could transport me to other locales.
One of Richmond’s and the state’s greatest treasures, the 100 acre park was the home of millionaires James and Sallie Dooley at the turn of the century. The couple lived on this land from 1893 until 1925 in their Romanesque mansion, surrounded by magnificent gardens and landscapes.
My fascination with James and Sallie Dooley, began during the first time that I visited their mansion many years ago. Why? My maiden name is Dooley and as I walked around their beautiful home, it was fun to imagine that they were distant relatives of mine and I was visiting their homestead. This time around, I was able to walk around the exterior of their mansion, but unfortunately it was not open to visitors. The periphery, however, is worthy of inspection, especially for architecture buffs like me! It is a stunning structure and surrounded by some beautiful sculptural pieces, the family mausoleum and the Dooley garage and stable, which features antique buggies and carriages.
Mausoleum
Dooley Garage and Stable
Heading down the hill, past the fountain court and stone barn, I began to feel as if I had departed my home country and landed in Italy. Though the Dooleys had commissioned English pastoral gardens around their home, this part of their estate, was more formal, featuring stonework, statuary, gazebos, fountains and beautiful flowers, shrubs and trees. This classical style, developed in the 15th and 16th century can be spotted throughout Italy and more specifically at Villa Torlonia, near Rome.
Fountain CourtStone Barn
A long pergola stretches along the northern edge of the garden and the garden is laid out in many levels below. At this point, the Dooleys could even spy the mighty James River out in the distance when it was first constructed. From this overlook stretches a stunning cascading fountain which feeds into a waterfall. There is a beautiful classical gazebo, imported from Italy, and I was told that it is quite lovely in the spring when surrounded by the blossoming peonies.
Making my way down the steps of the cascading fountain, I was disappointed to find that it was not in operation, but at the end, I was excited to glance upward at its magnificence and further down the path, find the entrance to the Japanese gardens.
The Japanese gardens have always been my favorite and the site of many picnics with my children during their younger days. When I am there, I truly feel as though I am in Japan.
Its nice to take a stroll on the gravel paths around the pond and admire the statuary, grotto and Japanese structures that rest near or over the water. I still fondly remember my boys jumping from stone to stone on the pathway across the pond and running across the wooden bridge near the base of the waterfall.
Exiting the gardens, I headed toward the part of the park where the wild animals are housed. Sometimes the black bear is not visible, but on this day, he was pacing back and forth along the wall and I was able to see him quite well. The Raptors and Bobcat exhibits were closed off due to spacing requirements so I continued along the path toward the Children’s Farm.
The horses and cows were grazing in the pastures and the vegetable garden was in full bloom. The sheep were out in their yard and I remembered how much my children loved to go to the petting zoo. The bison, my personal favorites, however, were nowhere to be seen within their enclosure.
The Robins Nature Center was not open on the day that I was here, but I thought back to the field trips in which we visited this facility. There are many interesting exhibits which highlight animals of the James River and Chesapeake Bay. One of the featured favorites are the otters, which reside in their own beaver lodge. The 30,000 gallon aquariums showcase a great number of aquatic animals which reside in the waters of the state. Over 45,000 guests visit the center annually, including tens of thousands of local students.
Robins Nature Center
As I made my way, full circle, back to my starting point, I relished the beauty around me…small creeks, large trees and rolling hills. It must have been a spectacular place for the Dooleys to call home and truly a special gift for them to bequeath to the city of Richmond.
Though the admission price is only suggested and visitors can enter the park freely, remember the generosity of the Dooleys and give back to the city to help maintain what the Dooleys gave to the city.
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Hours: Grounds and Gardens, April to September, 1000-1900, October to March, 1000-1700. Farm and Wildlife habitat, 1000-1700. The Robins Nature Center, Saturday-Sunday, 1000-1700. Carriage Collection, Tuesday-Sunday, 1200-1700. Maymont Mansion, temporarily closed.
Most Americans know that our nation’s first President was George Washington and that his residence, Mount Vernon, is located south of Washington D.C., on the banks of the Potomac River.
Having visited Mount Vernon with my children on various school field trips, I was intrigued with the how beautiful the estate and its grounds were and although I was aware that this was Washington’s home, I never thought about how long he lived there. Although he and his wife Martha made it their home until his death, I guess I always assumed that he also grew up there.
Recently, when visiting Fredericksburg, I found myself on Kings Highway. Noticing a historical sign directing visitors to George Washington’s boyhood home, I initially dismissed it assuming it was Mount Vernon. When I happened to see another sign directing me to the entrance, I realized that I was not near Mount Vernon and this was something entirely different.
This was Ferry Farm.
Located on the banks of the Rappahannock River, Ferry Farm, as it was later named, was George Washington’s home from the age of six years until his twenties. The Washington family purchased the farm in 1738 and it was here where George Washington spent his formative years and the place where most people believe he chopped down the infamous cherry tree.
Visitor’s Center
Purchasing a ticket, I walked in the garden for a few minutes before heading out to the area where the replica of the home stands. During my tour, learned that in 1740, the Washington family home was destroyed by fire, however, during excavations in 2008, archaeologists uncovered remains that led them to realize that this was the location of the family home. In 2015, the George Washington Foundation began constructing a replica on the site of the original building and it was opened to the public in 2018.
Path from Visitor’s Center to House
Surveyor’s Shed
Though no one knows what the farm was called during the years that the Washington family occupied the home, it later came to be known as Ferry Farm, because of the free ferry (not owned by the family) that crossed the river on the family’s land.
Replica of the Washington family home
After an introduction by the tour guide, we were led through the home which was built using eighteenth century building techniques. The tour which took us through the first floor, introduced us to reproductions of the furniture and objects listed in George’s father, Augustine Washington’s, probate inventory when he died in 1743. Unlike many other historical tours, because these are all reproductions, we were encouraged to interact with the objects while being regaled with stories about the family’s life.
Once the tour was complete, I ventured outside and down to the river to where the ferry once departed the banks of the river to make its crossing. From here, the view of the home sitting on the hill, was breathtaking and you could almost imagine a young George and his siblings running down the steep slope or sledding down during the winter!
Making my way back up the stairs, I spotted a tent, situated not far from the house. Archaeologists were excavating another site on the property and I was told that there have been prehistoric artifacts such as spear points, stone axes and numerous other tools tied to the American Indians that once made their home on the land found here. During the Civil War in 1862, the areas near the farm were the site of skirmishes between Confederate and Union armies. The farm was used by Union soldiers as a campground and although much of the farm was destroyed, a surveyor’s shed was constructed and is one on the only remaining structures from this time frame that can be seen today. In addition, archaeologists have found many items from the Civil War occupation that can be seen in the museum at the front of the property such as bullets, ink bottles, button and medallions from uniforms. Other interesting artifacts that can be inspected are 18th century wig hair curlers. The Georgian-style inspired museum and archaeological lab also houses the ticket office/visitor’s center and was not open for visitation.
Since Ferry Farm has only been open since 2018 and a new historical attraction, I do think that it is worth returning at a later date. A new visitor’s center is in the works and every year, visitors come for the celebration of Washington’s birthday. While everyone knows the cherry tree story, which is believed to have happened here, it is also claimed to be the site where George Washington skipped a silver dollar across the Rappahannock River. The river was wider then than it is today, making it a much harder feat, but all who attend are invited to recreate this event.
Wonder if there will be any tree chopping competitions too?
George Washington not only led an interesting adult life, but an interesting younger one as well.
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There is just something about being surrounded by water, feeling the ocean breeze flowing through your hair and the sand between your toes!
Having visited many islands in my life and Florida on many occasions, Sanibel Island had somehow escaped me, although I had spent much time in the southern part of the state. I had always heard that it was the Shelling Capitol of the World and I was curious to see what this meant. Would the shells be so plentiful that they would pave a path along the beaches?
After leaving Key West and driving to the mainland, my husband and I decided that we needed to head to the western part of the state and check it out for ourselves. Finding our way to the Sanibel Inn, we checked in and took a quick walk to the beach. The weather wasn’t cooperating at the moment, so our stay was short, but just long enough to see how many shells were embedded in the sand at the top of the beach near the hotel’s path. Grabbing a few, I took them back to the room and gave them a quick washing. Seeing what I had motivated me to wake up early the next morning for an early scavenging.
As dim daylight filtered through the drawn curtains, my alarm went off. Swinging my legs over the side of the bed and heading to the window, I was a bit dismayed to find that while there was daylight, there was no sunlight. In fact, the sky was dark and a light drizzle was falling.
Well, it might not be tanning weather, but I had brought a hat and a raincoat.
Walking along the narrow beach, I collected shell after shell. Canvasing every square inch, I collected many similar ones with ideas for craft projects swimming around in my head. My bag was full when I headed back inside our hotel and the sun was finally starting to show its face. It was a good day…sand, shells and sun!
Before heading back to the beach for some swimming and tanning, we decided to take a quick drive to see what the twelve mile island had to offer.
Driving from one end to the other, we admired the beautiful homes that lined the shores in Captiva and then eventually found our way to the Sanibel Lighthouse at the eastern end of the island.
The Sanibel Island Lighthouse park encompasses the entire tip of the island. Attracting visitors for the wide array of activities is offers, we found the parking lots packed with vehicles for those visiting the beach, the fishing pier and of course, the lighthouse.
Having just been to the lighthouse in Key West, it was interesting to see the differences between the two. Though visitors are allowed around the historic lighthouse, none are allowed to climb the 127 steps to the top of the 98 foot structure, like we were in Key West.
Much like the Key West structure, the lighthouse was built in the 1800s by settlers of the island. First lit on August 20th, 1884 with kerosene oil, the lighthouse keeper, Dudley Richardson, the keeper from 1884 until 1892, had to get to the top of the lighthouse by walking up an external spiral staircase. Various other keepers followed Richardson and lived on the premises in the structures you can still see today.
In 1949, the job was discontinued and the lighthouse became automated. The lighthouse continued its duty until 1972 when the Coast Guard proposed that it be decommissioned. The mariners in the area and the residents, however, opposed and halted the idea. In 1982, the buildings on the premises were offered to Sanibel residents to live in for free in exchange for its maintenance. In 2004, the Coast Guard gave the lighthouse to the City of Sanibel and it was restored in 2013.
It was nice to walk around the premises, although the museum was not open, and we ventured out to the crowded beach area. We also took a walk on the pier and watched the fisherman and the boats that passed nearby.
Finally, we headed back to our little beach, which had become smaller with the incoming tide, and relaxed while watching the large number of birds that come to enjoy the clear waters.
And of course, I grabbed a few more shells!
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There are many architectural highlights that visitors must check out while in Key West.
Hemingway House, Truman’s Little White House, Key West Lighthouse…just to name a few.
While these are amazing attractions, one of the best things to do is set out on foot and discover all of the small historic sites that are scattered throughout the city. As my husband and I made our way throughout the island, we encountered many homes, theaters, bars, churches, boats, gardens and other structures that give Key West its charm and style.
Shopping
You can start emptying your pocketbook in Mallory Square. There are a great many souvenir shops located here as well as local vendors, street performers and live music. The Key West Aquarium is positioned here and it is the starting point for the Old Town Trolley Tours. If setting out on foot is not your forte, then hop on board the trolley and see the city! If you do decide to take your own walking tour, make sure to watch out for the markers on some of the historic sites. You can call the number listed at the bottom of the marker for free audio description.
Restaurants and Bars
Just around the corner from Mallory Square your will find El Meson De Pepe restaurant. While the Cuban food was good, what I enjoyed most was the interior. The restaurant is filled with murals and art by Mario Sanchez, information on author Jose Marti and even an antique airplane hanging above diners! Since I had been to Cuba a few months prior, it felt very familiar and comfortable.
Sloppy Joe’s Bar and Restaurant is a favorite on Duval Street. Touted as a Key West tradition, it is usually filled with revelers until the early hours of the morning. Because of Covid restrictions, it was extremely quiet while we were visiting as was many of the numerous bars and restaurants that line the famed street. However, we have been there on other visits and it is one of the highlights if partying is your thing!
Churches
The Basilica of St. Mary Star of the Sea was one of the churches that I had marked high on my to-do list while in Key West. Adjacent to the Convent of Mary Immaculate, built by the Sisters of the Holy Names of Jesus and Mary in 1878, the church dates back to 1905. The church is a single nave structure and decorated quite simply with touches of gold and light blue, paying homage to the sea. There is a beautiful stained glass window located above the altar and some nice sculptures scattered throughout. Since the church is not air conditioned, the many sets of double doors that line each side of the church are opened for the comfort of the parishioners.
As we walked down Duval Street, we encountered St. Paul’s Episcopal Church. Though we only were able to admire the structure from the outside, we did learn that this church was preceded by three others on this historic site. The first and third was destroyed by hurricanes in 1846 and 1909 and the second was devastated by the Great Fire of 1886. This church was completed in 1919 and designed to stand the test of time and nature.
Historical Homes
On many of Key West’s main and side streets, you can find beautiful, historic homes of great significance. Whitehead Street boasts the Philip L. Cosgrove House, dating back to 1872. This house once belonged to Captain Philip L. Cosgrove, Sr. who commanded the U.S. lighthouse tender Mangrove, the first rescue ship to aid victims of the 1898 explosion of the U.S.S. Maine in Havana harbor. Incorporating the former house of federal judge James Locke, the house was expanded to two and a half stories in the Greek Revival style.
A few steps away from the Cosgrove House is the William Lowe Delaney/Theodore Holtsberg House which has a long line of owners dating back to 1844. The first owner, Benjamin Sawyer, built the first house on the property for his family and also used the structure for Key West’s port business until the completion of the Customs House. The next owner, Deputy Custom Collector William Lowe Delaney bought the property from Sawyer’s widow and built the house that stands today, a two story, Queen Anne revival with an asymmetrical floor plan. The home was transferred to Lavinia Artolozaga in 1918 upon Delaney’s death, and then again in 1925 to Romanian immigrant Theodore Holtsbert, one of the island’s first Jewish immigrants. Today, the home is part of the Banyan resort.
At the head of Whitehead Street is the Audubon House and Tropical Gardens. The house was built in 1830 by Captain John H. Geiger, pilot and master wrecker. The house was dedicated in 1960 by Mitchell Wolfson, to act as public museum to be named Audubon House commemorating John James Audubon’s visit to the island in 1832 to study the key’s birds.
Alexander Cruz/Julia Gardner House is located on the corner of Eaton and Whitehead Streets. A three story cigar factory was built on the site in 1889 by the Cruz Brothers, Andres, Alexander and Jose. Acting as a business and residence for the family the cigar factory was then bought by Alexander in 1900 where he then erected a two and a half story Neoclassical home in 1904. Fourteen years later, Julia Gardner, daughter of prominent land owner Richard Henry Albury, purchased the residence and lived there for thirty years.
On Duval Street, the Martin Hellings House was constructed in 1892 by Captain Martin L. Hellings and is one of only a few homes that was not built during the Civil War. Hellings, accepted the position of cable manager of the International Ocean Telegraph Company in Key West, an important position as telegraphs were the means of rapid long distance communication. Upon his death in 1908, the house was converted into offices and then purchased by the Key West Woman’s Club which later converted it into a public library.
Government Buildings and Museums
One of the most beautiful landmarks in Key West is located on Duval street. Founded in 1871 by Cuban exiles as an educational, civic and patriotic center, the multi-purpose facility serves as a museum, library, art gallery, theater and school. The famed Jose Marti united the exile community in 1892 and affectionately referred to the San Carlos as “La Casa Cuba”.
On Simonton, between Eaton and Caroline Streets, you can find the Federal Courthouse, which also houses the Social Security Administration and U.S. District Court. The building, as evidenced by the wording on the face of the building, acted as the Customs House.
On Front Street, you can find the Key West Museum of Art and History at the Custom House, built in 1891, which also acted as the island’s custom office, postal service and district courts. This four story construction was built in the Romanesque style and was the site of many significant historical events. In later years, it was transferred to the United States Navy and then abandoned for almost twenty years. It was purchased by the State of Florida in 1991 and leased to the Key West Art and Historical Society for use as a museum. Visitors can now experience two floors of exhibitions which tell the tale of Key West’s history, art and people.
The Monroe County Courthouse, located on Fleming Street, was completed in 1890 in a traditional county courthouse style and features a 100 foot tall clock tower that can be seen from almost any part of the island. Make sure to check out the massive Kapok (or Ceilba tree), located in front of the courthouse.
The Southernmost House holds the distinction of being (yes, you guessed it) the southernmost house in the United States. The house is located near the Southernmost Point attraction and although it acts as a hotel, it also acts as a museum with displays of collections of important and interesting documents, many signed by presidents of the United States, including John F. Kennedy’s inaugural address. Even if you don’t have time to visit the museum, take the time to inspect this impressive Queen Anne Victorian architectural gem.
If you are a maritime enthusiast, you can visit the U.S. Coast Guard Cutter Ingham Maritime Museum, on the waterfront near Fort Zachary Taylor. The museum ship served during WWII and Vietnam and is the most decorated ship in the United States service. It was the last American Warship afloat to have sunk a German U-Boat and you can learn about its illustrious history in its exhibit room. We took a quick picture in front of the cutter, however, we planned to return at the end of the day on Friday or Saturday…this ship is known for being one of the best places to view the beautiful Key West sunsets…and it serves wine and beer!
Other Historic Structures and Attractions
If you are an Ernest Hemingway fan, of course, you would visit his former home. If that leaves you wanting more, take a walk on Simonton Street and check out the Old Trev-more Hotel where Hemingway and his wife stayed in 1928. It was here where he penned Farewell to Arms from his second story room. In 1978, the hotel was converted to a private residence and renamed Casa Antigua.
There are two prominent art-deco style theaters in the historic district of Key West. The Key West Theater, originally built in 1848 as the First Baptist Church of Key West, has also operated as a dance club and concert venue. Today, it now operates as a performing arts center.
Further down Eaton Street is Tropic Cinema. Of the two, this is the one to take a moment to see. Showing independent movies on four screens, this cinema’s exterior is beautifully styled with neon signs and a statue of Marilyn Monroe standing over a vent, dress blowing surrounded by a sidewalk interspersed with stars.
Finally, at the end of your days (if you still have the stamina), venture down to the Historic Seaport Harbor Walk where you can have drinks and dinner, gaze (wistfully) at the beautiful boats, people watch and then wander over to nearby Sunset Pier to watch the awesome sunsets that grace Key West’s skies on most evenings.
The style of Key West, both natural and man made, can’t be beat!
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How do you combine history with a day at the beach?
In Key West, you can take a boat tour to the Dry Tortugas. On this island, seventy miles west of Key West, visitors can tour Fort Jefferson, bask in the sun and snorkel the clear waters of the Caribbean. A long ferry ride for a short time on the island? Surely there must be a better way!
Fort Zachary Taylor State Park on the southern part of the Key West, also offers a historic fort and a beach.
Built in the mid-1800s, Fort Zachary Taylor was one of three strongholds built to defend the southeastern United States coastline. Completed in 1866, it played significant roles in both the Civil War and the Spanish-American War and played a key role in guarding the harbor of Key West.
The fort, built by Irish brick masons, is two and a half stories tall and forms a trapezoid. Towering over fifty feet about the water, it walls are five feet thick. Back in its heyday, the fort housed 198 cannons and 450 men.
Only a few cannons (and none of the men) are in existence today, but we were able to walk along the top of the walls, enjoying the ocean views and in the inner areas where the remaining cannons are housed. There are multiple displays detailing life in the fort and ammunitions in the areas which once housed the barracks and if you are lucky, you might spy one of the iguanas that call the fort home.
After we had made our way throughout the historic structure, we exited the gates and took the Tropical Hammock Trail leading to the Fort Zachary Taylor State Park beach, passing the remains of the old Blacksmith Shop along the way.
Our walk wasn’t a long one and we found a rocky beach edged with calm waters and palm trees.
After we secured two chairs and an umbrella, it was time for some relaxation. The beach was decent, however, paying more for two chairs and an umbrella than we had in the Greek Isles, was a bit surprising. In addition, we were also glad to have brought snacks as the concession stand’s pricing was on the high side. As far as a refreshing swim was concerned, the water was dark and cloudy and extremely warm. Taking some time to relax together and get some sun seemed to be the only benefit of our visit.
So, while we enjoyed the fort and beach’s close proximity to the other attractions in Key West, what we expected was not what we got. I had seen the pictures of Fort Jefferson in the Dry Tortugas and maybe that skewed my perception of what we would be experiencing in Key West. Though I enjoyed the fort I felt we were a bit short-changed on the beach side.
Next time, I think I’m paying for that long ride to the Dry Tortugas!
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Address: 601 Howard England Way, Key West FL 33040
Hours: 0800-sundown, daily
Admission: $6.00 per vehicle (2-8 people). Pedestrians, bicyclists, extra passengers, passengers in vehicle with holder of Annual Individual Entrance Pass (Monroe County surcharge included in this price), $2.50. Single-occupant vehicle or motorcycle (Monroe County surcharge included in this price), $4.50.
Beach Amenities: Two chairs and umbrella, $30.00. Concessions and watersport rentals vary.
Having visited lighthouses in Ghana, Cuba and the Outer Banks of North Carolina, I know what great views can be had from the top.
When I spotted the Key West Lighthouse while we were visiting the Hemingway House from the upper terrace, I knew that a long winding staircase was in my future.
The next morning.
My husband’s future? Not really.
As we walked down the street in the early morning heat, he decided to duck into a small restaurant and enjoy a cold drink. Seeing the island from a bird’s eye view and exerting a great deal of energy first thing in the morning did not seem all that enticing when all he wanted to do was lay on a beach.
Off I went, on my own, anxious to see if there was anything that made this particular lighthouse, well…particular.
As I stood at the bottom of the towering beacon, gazing upward and taking a breath, I entered and began the climb. Eighty-eight steps to the top, I finally made it, occasionally stopping to to catch my breath and peer out of the random porthole.
The views of the island were breathtaking and the waters surrounding the island were glistening in the morning sun. It was enlightening to find the landmarks noted on the signs attached to the rail and as I scanned the horizon, I spotted some of the attractions I was interested in visiting. The best attraction that I spotted, however, was my husband, sitting on the porch of the restaurant drinking his Diet Coke…and was that a piece of Key Lime pie?
At the base of the lighthouse, I stopped for a minute to admire one of the life-like statues that grace the lighthouse and museum’s grounds and then headed over to the lighthouse keeper’s former home, now a museum.
The first lighthouse on the island was built in 1825 near the Southernmost Point. After it was destroyed by a hurricane in 1846, this new lighthouse was constructed inland on Whitehead Street and completed in 1848.
As I moved through the museum, I learned that the first lighthouse keeper was a woman, nearly unheard of during that time period. Many upgrades were completed over the years, including the installation of a Third Order Fresnel Lens which allowed the lens to be seen from a greater distance, the addition of the Keeper’s Quarters and the installation of electricity. Though the lighthouse served Key West and its maritime visitors and passersby for many years, it was decommissioned in 1969.
A large number of photographs lined the walls of the museum and a couple of the rooms were staged to allow a look into how the lighthouse keepers and their families lived. There were many other nautical items and aged lens displayed throughout the gallery.
Other buildings on the premises
Though the lighthouse has not been in use for many years, it has played an important part of Key West’s maritime heritage and is now an important part of Key West’s tourism. There are many things to see and do in Key West and this is one of the ones that all visitors should see.
Was it worth the sweltering climb?
Yes, because I got the views and key lime pie in the end!
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While on vacation, there are some things that I want to visit.
There are some things that my husband wants to visit.
Then, there are the things that we both want to visit.
While in Key West, Harry S. Truman’s Little White House was one of those things that we were both interested in.
Well, we were very interested until we got there and asked to purchase a ticket…wow quite expensive! In the end, we decided to take the tour, even after being told that we could not take photos inside the home…and everyone who knows me, knows that drives me crazy!
As we sat on the back veranda, our tour guide gave us a quick overview of the history of the property and of how it came to be the Key West home of President Truman.
Built in 1890, as the first officer’s quarters of the submarine base naval station, it was later converted into a single-family dwelling to house the base commandant. Originally a waterfront dwelling, the property’s ocean views were eventually blocked by a new building at the naval station.
Before President Truman’s acquisition, the home had its share of famous visitors. In 1912, President William Howard Taft traveled to Key West for a stay before traveling to Panama for an inspection of the canal which was under construction. While staying in the home during World War I, Thomas Edison perfected underwater weapons and the home acted as a command center for the remainder of the war.
Requiring some relaxation, President Harry S. Truman was ordered to take a warm-weathered vacation by his physician. His first trip, in 1946, was the first of eleven visits over the course of his time in office and it was on those visits that he and Bess put their decorative touches on it and made it their “home away from home”.
As we walked through the house with our guide, we were regaled with tales of the many important events that took place within its walls…and not necessarily the nightly poker games.
United States Cabinet members and foreign officials were regular visitors to the Truman home and it was where the the Joint Chiefs of Staff laid out the creation of the Department of Defense.
Later still, other presidential visitors included General Dwight D. Eisenhower, who later became president and President John F. Kennedy. In more recent years, President Jimmy Carter held a family reunion on the premises and a week of peace talks was initiated here by Secretary of State Colin Powell with President Robert Kocharyan of Armenia and Heydar Aliyev of Azerbaijan. Former President Bill Clinton and his wife, Hilary, have also spent a weekend relaxing in the Little White House.
After the President Truman left office, the house reverted to the role as home to the Naval Station commandant until 1974, when the submarine base was closed and later, that year, it was added to the U.S. National Register of Historic Places.
The home was deeded to the State of Florida on January 1, 1987. Almost a million dollars was spent restoring the house to its 1949 appearance and it was opened as a state historic site and museum.
As we were led through each of the home’s rooms, we garnered a better understanding of how the president spent his days and nights on vacation, as we examined items such as the President’s briefcase, books, telephone. Noting these last objects, obviously, at times, he found it necessary to mix business with pleasure.
My favorite items, however, were his poker table (which could tell a tale or two, I am sure), his “vacation” shirt, which still hangs in the closet and his famous “The Buck Stops Here” sign which still sits on his desk.
The home is in impeccable condition and looks much like one would expect a home to look like during the late 40’s and early 50’s.
Now back to the no photographs rule…
Of course, I wanted to capture what I was seeing as it appeared to be so original and Tru (pun intended!), however, as we were accompanied the entire time by our guide, it was by the hardest that I was able to snap a few photos when he was not looking.
With that being said, was the visit to the Little White House worth the $22.52?
We learned a lot about the United States’ 33rd president, were able to enjoy authentic 1950’s decor and walk through a piece of architecture that played an important part of our great country.
The most important thing, however, was that my husband and I were able to enjoy something together!
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One of the most famous and most visited landmarks of Key West is the former home of writer Ernest Hemingway.
Hemingway and his second wife, journalist Pauline Pfeiffer, made Key West their home after leaving Paris and returning to the United States in 1928. Enchanted by the island at the southern end of the Florida Keys, they purchased a home on one of the largest private lots in the city and settled into to the laid back and permissive lifestyle that the remote U.S. city offered.
The home, which stood on one of the most elevated spots on the island, was well constructed to endure the ferocity of the Caribbean hurricane seasons. It was lovingly restored and filled with European antiques that Hemingway purchased on his frequent trips abroad.
As we waited in the oppressive heat for our tour to start and were admiring the home’s stunning Spanish Colonial exterior, a cat or two wove their way around our feet. Figuring they were strays that had made their way onto the property, we followed our tour guide into the home and listened as he regaled us with tales of Hemingway’s colorful life.
Making our way through the living spaces that the writer shared with his wife and noting his cherished keepsakes, we also noted a cat or two…or three. Now, seeing cats outside was one thing, but there was a cat sleeping near the floor-to-ceiling window, one stretched out on the dining room table and another lounging on the bathroom window sill. An avid fan of architecture, I am usually engrossed in the details of historic homes and their furnishings, however, instead of appreciating the beautiful yellow patterned tile in the bathroom and Hemingway’s hunting trophies, I was playing spot the cat!
The guide led us up to the top floor’s rooms including the bedroom and there…on the bed…another cat!
We moved out to the gallery, admiring the nearby Key West Light House, and finally learned the story of the Hemingway cats.
As the story goes, Hemingway was given Snow White, a white six-toed cat, as a gift by a sea captain…a very auspicious gift, as polydactyl cats are thought by sailors to bring good luck. The cats on the property, between fifty and sixty, are descendants of Snow White. The cats bear the names of celebrities such as Marilyn Monroe and Humphrey Bogart and live a fat and happy life within the home and on the premises.
Making our way down the back stairs and into the back garden, we spied more of Snowball’s descendants sprawled out in the shade taking afternoon siestas. As we headed back upstairs to take a look inside the carriage house where Hemingway’s office was located and where he penned “The Snows of Kilimanjaro” and “For Whom the Bell Tolls”, there was another cat, no doubt dreaming about the inspiration that once occurred here.
Finally, we made our way to the rear of the property to lay our eyes on the inviting swimming pool, the first of the Florida Keys, that was installed by Pauline Pfeiffer as a surprise for her husband. Not something that he would have spent his hard-earned money on, he angrily (and a bit melodramatically) threw a penny into the pool, indicating that she had spent his last hard cent, despite the fact that it was paid for with her money. Pauline kept the penny and had it embedded in the concrete near the pool. Though he was not initially impressed with the addition to his home, it grew on him and he eventually had a six foot wall erected around the property so that he could swim nude, privy to only his wife’s and cat’s eyes.
Stopping to inspect the penny, which is still present, we also ducked into the gift shop which displayed books and gifts for sale and yes…a cat…sleeping high on one of the shelves!
As we made our way to the exit gates, we took note of the small houses erected for the cats tucked between the lush growth of the property. We also stopped by the Cat Cemetery and discovered the graves, etched with the deceased cats famous names. We paid our respects to Kim Novak, Willard Scott, Collette Colbert, Liz Taylor and all of the others who came before them.
What I though the most interesting was there was a cat named Pauline Pfeiffer! I wonder if she liked swimming in the beautiful pool?
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