Tag: church

Discovering Antigua

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

We headed to a new country on a whim.

We then headed to a town I knew nothing about.

The unknown was the best part.

We could hate it…or it could be one of our most memorable trips yet!

One of the best parts of travel is discovering new places and cultures.  I find it extremely exhilarating to explore a new city and find out what makes it tick! 

What was it about Antigua Guatemala that makes it worthy to have received the distinction of UNESCO World Heritage site in 1979?

Antigua Guatemala means “Old Guatemala” and was the third capital of Guatemala, after earthquakes and uprisings forced the movement of the first two.  Located in the central highlands of Guatemala, it is known for its beautifully preserved Spanish Baroque-influenced architecture and the large number of colonial churches ruined during previous years earthquakes. 

Laid out in a square pattern, with streets running from north to south and east to west, we found that La Antigua (as it is sometimes referred to) was quite easy to navigate.  As we set out onto the cobblestone streets, we passed many buildings that had been damaged during earthquakes. Rather than appearing as eyesores, however, these buildings, including the Antiguo Colegio de la Campaña de Jesús among others, add character to the charming city,

The Antiguo Colegio de la Campaña de Jesús is located next to the Spanish Embassy and was once a Jesuit monastery and college, established in 1626.  After the Jesuits were expelled in 1767, the great earthquake that hit six years later, left the unoccupied building in ruins.  Though we were unable to venture directly into the main part of the building, the Spanish government, which restored most of the complex, has turned it into a cultural center.  Outside, we were able to admire the extravagantly carved (yet mostly headless) statues that grace the facade of the main building, but inside the complex, we were able to enjoy serene courtyards and abundant pieces of artwork on display.

Continuing our journey, we came to the heart of the city, the Plaza Mayor.  This central plaza is a gathering spot for locals and visitors and is centered with a fountain.  There are large trees that offer shade during the hottest parts of the day and benches to rest and talk.  Due to the large number of visitors in town for the Holy Week’s festivities, there were many vendors attempting to peddle their wares and many locals in traditional dress. The perfect spot for people-watching!

Surrounding the square are a large number of restaurants, shops and banks, including the Palacio de los Capitanes Generales, which incorporates the headquarters of the Guatemala Institute of Tourism, the Antigua Tourism Association, the National Police and the Sacatepquez Department government. 

Dominating the eastern side of the Plaza Mayor is the Antigua Guatemala Cathedral.  The original church, built in 1541, was damaged heavily by many earthquakes over the years.  The original church was demolished in 1669 and rebuilt and consecrated in 1680.  The largest in Central America at the time, it was filled with precious works of art and housed the remains of Conquistador Pedro de Alvarado and his wife, Beatriz de la Cueva.  In 1773, the catastrophic Santa Marta earthquake demolished much of the city and movement of the capital to (what is now known as) Guatemala City, was deemed necessary.  This earthquake also seriously damaged most of the cathedral.  Belonging to the parish of San Jose, the cathedral’s interior presently only occupies the entrance hall of the original edifice.  It is not as richly decorated as I would have imagined, but it was nice to see the stations of the cross and the other holy statues, especially those decked out for Semana Santa.

As we walked out of the back doors into a cemented courtyard, we admired the exterior architecture of not only the cathedral but the buildings surrounding the cathedral.  Noticing an entryway, we approached and found that we could investigate the ruins that remain from when the cathedral was demolished by the massive earthquake of 1773.  Paying our entry fee, we walked through the remains of this once grand cathedral, mostly open above so that we could glimpse the blue sky.  Though it takes a bit of imagination to envision how the cathedral once looked, it was exciting to walk through the structure, examining the ruined chapels and seeing the remains of the carved details atop the columns. 

Something we learned was that after the destruction of the church, it temporarily served as a cemetery.  Many tunnels have been discovered under the cathedral and we were also able to descend into the South Crypt.  A dark, damp place, there was not much to see, but you can imagine the many souls that have come to rest here. 

In the rear of the remains, we found a work area where many pieces are being restored or placed for safekeeping.  Despite the absence of many walls and a ceiling, this cathedral took my breath away for the purity that still remains.  Much like visiting the Acropolis in Athens or the Forum in Rome, the detritus of this ancient structure leave much to the imagination, yet take your breath away at the same time. 

After leaving the cathedral, we walked past the park once again, heading back to our hotel so that we could spend some time refreshing ourselves for much needed nourishment.

A couple of blocks from our hotel, on the corner of Alameda de Santa Lucia and 5a Calla Poniente, we peered through the gates at what we later learned was the Landivar Monument, dedicated to poet and local, Rafael Landivar.  Built in 1953, this monument, erected in a park-like setting, pays tribute to the beloved writer and Jesuit priest who lived from 1731 until 1793.  Though we walked by this peaceful place, every day, we never seemed to find the gates unlocked, though we were told that it would be open daily.  Content to spy on its tranquility through the iron bars, we decided to save this for a future visit. 

After a recommendation from our hotel for dinner, we headed back into the night seeking out the restaurant, La Fonda de la Calle Real, located near the Plaza Mayor. As we approached the park, we learned for the first time what the Santa Semana processions of this small city consisted of.

Hundreds of people lined the street of Poniente, which runs east to west, adjacent to the park. Processing down the street was a lighted, massive, religious, wooden shrine hoisted on the shoulders of a religious guild. Moving and swaying slowly to the melancholy music of the accompanying band, we watched in awe as the barge, complete with life-size effigies of the Virgin Mary and Jesus, passed a few feet from us. Many others marched with the procesiónes, dressed in robes and waving censers clouding the air with the smoke from burned incense.

As a Catholic, it was something to see…inspiring, touching and thrilling all at the same time!

Once the crowds dispersed, we finally headed to La Fonda unequivocally anticipating some delectable Guatemalan cuisine. Seated in a courtyard, open to the night sky, we started with guacamole and then both chose the traditional dish, Suban-iq, chicken, pork and beef slowly cooked in banana leaves, covered in a tomato, chilies and spices sauce. Accompanied by homemade tortillas (being made by a lady near the entryway), the food was delicious and just what we needed after our long day of travel and sightseeing.

Heading back to our hotel, stomachs filled, we eagerly readied ourselves for bed and within seconds, my mind reeling from all that we had experienced so far, I was asleep.

Not for long.

Shaken from my sleep, I sat up and realized that we had experienced our first earthquake! Though I was able to go back to sleep immediately, my son said that there were three or four aftershocks, making him a bit nervous, knowing that there were three nearby volcanoes.

What can I say? All in a days time, we had discovered so much! A new country, a new city, a new culture, new religious traditions, new foods and something entirely new (and a bit scary) to the both of us…an earthquake.

Yes, we were discovering Antigua…and this was only Day One!

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Antiguo Colegio de la Campana de Jesus

  • Address: H747XQ Antigua, Guatemala
  • Hours: 1000-1700
  • Admission: free

Plaza Mayor

  • Hours: 24 hours
  • Admission: free

Antigua Guatemala Cathedral

  • Address: 5a Calle Oriente 5, Antigua Guatemala, Guatemala
  • Hours: 0900-1700
  • Admission: Main church, free. Ruins, Q20 (about $3.00 US)

Landivar Monument

  • Address: Alameda de Santa Lucia, Antigua Guatemala, Guatemala
  • Hours: daily
  • Admission: free

La Fonda de la Calle Real

Just A Quick Look

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Curiosity always seems to get the best of me!

Spying a church steeple down the street while walking back from the East Side Gallery in Berlin, I found my feet turning automatically in that direction.

Not wanting to miss something good, even though I was trying to make it back to my hotel for my dinner plans, I thought, “Just a quick look“.

Though the church’s interior wasn’t open for inspection, I did learn quite a bit about the property from the signboards posted at the front and back of the church’s property.

This was more than a church…this was about an entire square.

Architect August Soller, whose grave can be spied at St. Michael’s, was tapped to design the city’s third oldest Roman Catholic church. With plans completed in 1845, construction commenced six years later with much influence from Soller’s travels in Italy; mainly churches in Padua and Venice. So, when you spy St. Michael’s, as it was originally meant to be seen, with its view beyond the water feature (the remains of the Luisenstadt Canal) its conception from Venice’s churches along their waterways can be understood, as I was about to discover.

Completed in 1861, St. Michael’s served as a garrison church for Catholic soldiers due to its location near the border between Berlin-Mitte locality and Kreuzberg and was established by King Frederick William IV. After damage during World War II, it was partially reconstructed in the 1950’s. Now protected as a historical monument in Berlin, you can still see the wounds it sustained during the “Bombing of Berlin”, as you walk around the exterior of the church.

Though the church’s original walls and dome remain, the roof and the interior, including its organ, was destroyed. As I stood before the church’s entrance, it was amazing to be able to see the surviving dome through the portal window below the bell tower. Beneath the window is a mosaic depicting the Annunciation which surprisingly survived the bombing along with the church’s facade and entrance.

Long before the church’s completion, an idea to build a waterway through Luisenstadt was conceived. The idea was shelved until 1840, when the King of Prussia made the decision that a canal should connect the Landwehrkanal and the River Spree to reduce travel on the latter. With construction beginning in 1948, the first ship sailed along the waterway, passing St. Michael’s church in 1952, before turning at Engelbecken, the canal basin.

Despite the King’s determination in fulfilling the canal project, many years later, in 1926, the decision to fill in the Luisenstädt Canal was made due to noise, odor and lack of use. The Engelbecken, was then developed as a park under the guidance of landscape architect Erwin Barth. Though Barth’s main desire was to keep the canal, an idea not popular with the city’s government, he finally succeeded in developing the Engelbecken, surrounded by a green space. The canal basin became the Angel’s pool, a pond for swans surrounded by gardens.

Making my way across the Michaelkirchplatz, I stood on the raised viewing platform, anxious for a better look at the church, however, looking down at the Angel’s pool and the adjacent garden’s I anxiously searched for the steps leading to the area.

Cafe Am Engelbecken sits at the canal’s original water level, a relaxing spot to take in an afternoon tea or aperitif. Walking along the pool, lined with hedges and greenery, I glanced across at the picturesque and precise buildings which spread out along the perimeter. Pergolas hover above the path, awaiting the new growth of the warmer weather and I could only imagine how beautiful my walk would be during the summer when the Virginia creeper, climbing ross and clematis cling tightly to the structures. Arriving at the far end of the pool, it was then that I understood Soller’s idea of St. Michael’s position on a waterway, much like the Venetian churches.

This is the best view of St. Michael’s church!

The rose gardens, destroyed by the construction of the Berlin Wall, were excavated in 1993 by the Berlin Historic Gardens Conservation and a path runs down past the Oranienplatz between both Legiendamm and Leuschnerdamm. The path is highlighted by the Indische Brunnen, an eastern-style fountain also called the Hindu Springs. Although I exited at Oranienplatz, the path continues all the way down to Böcklerpark.

My detour to St. Michael’s church was definitely worth the eventual mad dash to my dinner plans. Very interested to learn about its and the surrounding area’s history, I now have another mission to see the interior of this historic church, which probably will not warrant, just a quick look!

I’m blocking off the whole afternoon!

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St. Michael’s Church and St. Michaelkirchplatz

  • Address: Michaelkirchpl. 15, 10179 Berlin, Germany
  • Hours: Park open 24 hours, church hours unknown
  • Admission: free
  • Getting There: Metro, Heinrich-Heine-Strasse and Kottbusser Tor stations

St. Peter’s In the Golden Sky

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Churches in Pavia?

There are so many.

While planning my trip to the city, south of Milan, the Duomo was at the top of my list, but being in Italy, certainly there would be other churches to visit.

As I googled “churches in Pavia” the resulting map was a sea of red icons. I marked them all on my map and hoped to visit at least two or three.

After viewing the Duomo’s splendor, I decided to walk north towards the Visconti Castle which houses the City Museums of Pavia. As the sun was edging lower in the evening sky, casting a golden glow over the city, I realized that the castle would have to wait until a future visit, but I also wanted to squeeze in one more thing before I headed back to Milan.

A church perhaps?

San Pietro in Ciel d’Oro, located a few blocks away, was the perfect choice as its Italian name translates to St. Peter’s In the Golden Sky…very fitting as I watched the sinking sun light the remains of the azure sky.

Trying to follow the map on my phone, I must have walked past the church a couple of times. It was a local woman, out for a walk, who finally pointed me in the right direction…the unassuming church, with its brick facade, is tucked away in a corner of a small, shady piazza.

Walking into the dimly lit interior, I noticed there was not another soul in sight except for an elderly priest attending his duties near the the front of the church. The ancient atmosphere of the basilica was mesmerizing and as I made my way through the interior and its three naves, I discovered the remains of a twelfth century mosaic in the apse as well as traces of frescoes from the fifteenth and sixteenth century.

Though the basilica dates back to the year 604 AD, the current building, only dates to the twelfth century and was consecrated by Pope Innocent II in 1132. Its grand dome in the central nave was rebuilt in 1487 and I learned from the priest that the original color of the wooden ceiling was decorated with golden colored paint, thus giving it its name.

The priest directed me into the crypt under the presbytery, which houses the remains of Severino Boezio, consul, senator and philosopher and I enjoyed making my way through the low, vaulted space. The presbytery itself, however, is the highlight of the church and what made me glad that I sought out this architectural gem. It is here that the fourteenth century marble Ark of St. Augustine is on display…the centerpiece for which this church is most notable. The Ark is decorated with scenes from the saint’s life (including his conversion, baptism, miracles after his death and the transfer of his relics to Pavia) and it is the silver urn at the foot of the Ark that houses his relics.

Another highlight of the basilica is the sacristy with its ribbed vault, sixteenth century adornments and a seventeenth century canvas of St. Augustine and St. Jerome. There are also two beautiful altars, one sculpted in 1940 and dedicated to St. Rita and the other dedicated to the Sacred Heart, dating to 1963.


Noticing the priest standing near the door, I knew that it was time to call it a day. Thanking him, I headed out into the now darkening evening and my waiting train.

Elated that I was able to visit two of the city’s holy sites and especially one with such significance. I opened up my map and marked off the two, only to realize that I’ll have to make many more trips to Pavia!

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Basilica di San Pietro in Ciel d’Oro

Pavia’s Pride

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

In the center of Pavia lies…the Duomo!

Yes, Pavia has its own.

Not a Duomo that can match the size and beauty of Milan’s, but one that fits the small scale of Pavia.

Built on the site of two pre-existing cathedrals, Saint Stephen and Santa Maria Maria del Popolo, Pavia’s cathedral was established in 1488 with the idea of offering a new place of worship to the city. Named after Saint Stephen, construction was initiated by Cristoforo Rocchi and later, Giovanni Antonio Amadeo, but most notably, Leonardi Da Vinci’s advice was also solicited on the project.

Knowing that there were many churches in Pavia, it was the one located in Cathedral Square that I most wanted to see. As I approached the square and spied the dome of the duomo, I must admit, it was a bit disappointing. When one hears the word duomo, one expects great things, like you would see in Milan. The facade, however, has largely remained incomplete with the terracotta surface still untouched by the marble in which it was supposed to be covered. Realizing that it was built over several centuries (resulting in a number of different influences) made me even more anxious to see what was inside.

Before entering, I spotted the remains next to the cathedral, the remains of the Civic Tower (Torre Civica), built in 1330 and enlarged in 1583. After standing proudly beside the cathedral for so many hundreds of years, the tower collapsed on March 17, 1989. To the left of the duomo, the remains of the two original churches can be seen in a fenced area.

Entering the structure, we found a much larger-than-expected cathedral consisting of a design of a Greek cross, topped with a dome designed by Carlo Maciachini. It is most interesting to note that this dome, held up by uniquely styled pillars, is the third largest in size in Italy.

At first glance, the far-reaching church’s marble interior appears to be quite plain, especially in the dim natural light. It is when you begin moving around the structure’s interior that you begin to notice the immense detail and treasures that lie tucked into each unique chapel that line the church’s perimeter and discover how light and airy the cathedral actually feels. Though it is tempting to head to the center of the church and examine the immense dome, and then the illuminated presbytery, take a deep breath and give yourself the time this grand structure deserves.

The main marble altar, with its eighteenth century top, was brought from the church of San Pietro in Ciel d’Oro. It draws you in with its intricately carved statues. The beautiful pulpit must be inspected thoroughly with its lifelike figures supporting the structure. It is truly amazing!

Making your way around to each of the chapels, there is much to discover in each. In St. Agnes’s chapel, there is a nineteenth century altarpiece representing a young version of the saint, lifting over her head, her symbol, the lamb. Another altarpiece, this one with the Virgin Mary, can be found in the aptly named, Virgin’s Chapel. Painted in Rome by Federico Faruffini, it depicts the Virgin with the city of Pavia at her feet. Beside the altar, there are statues of her parents Gioacchina and Anna as well as the remains of the bishop of Pavia, Damian.

In St. Peter’s Chapel, take note of the two symmetrical stones which show the saint’s coat of arms and his portrait and the cock on the left of the altarpiece which refers to St. Peter’s treason.

On the altar of St. Alessandro Sauli’s chapel, you can spy a stone urn, that holds the saint’s relics inside as well as plaster flying angels on clouds. The Chapel of the Rosary has a most interesting painting on canvas by Bernardino Gatti called Soiaro, created in 1531. Representing the Virgin of Rosary, there are stories about the Mysteries; fourteen of which must be read counterclockwise and the fifteen with the Coronation of the Virgin on the crowning tablet.

In the chapel of St. John the Baptist, a painting of the saint in the desert is flanked by statues of his parents, Elisabetta and Zaccaria. Under the altar is the body of St. Invenzio.

There are many other chapels to inspect including the Chapel of the Virgin of Caravaggio, the Chapel of Intercession, Sfondrati’s Chapel, the Crucifix’s Chapel, St. Crispino’s Chapel, St. Riccardo Pampuri’s Chapel, Trinity Chapel, St. Barnaba’s Chapel, St. Siro’s Chapel, the Chapel of the Sacred Heart and the Chapel of the Holy Family.

As you make your way around the cathedral, you will notice there are many notable figures and many past bishops, buried within and marked with engraved marble slabs. The most important person to be buried within the cathedral is St. Siro (in St. Siro’s Chapel). St. Siro is known to have been the first bishop of Pavia during the first century. According to legend, it was St. Siro who was the boy with the five loaves who appears in the Gospels. It is said that he followed St. Peter to Rome and was sent out to preach in the major cities of northern Italy.

The other most important item that should not be missed is the seventeenth century reliquary which holds the Holy Thorns which came from Christ’s crown. On Whit Sunday, an ancient mechanism allows the descent of the precious relics over a golden cloud to descend and go back up the following day.

Now that’s something I would like to see!

Exiting the cathedral and looking out onto the square, I thought of my first impression of Pavia’s duomo when I arrived. Turning back and taking another look, I realized something…

First impressions can be so deceiving.

Pavia’s duomo measures up in its own way!

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Pavia Duomo

Note: Check out the Regisole (“Sun King”) monument in Cathedral Square outside the Duomo. Originally erected in Ravenna, it was moved to Pavia in the Middle Ages and stands for Pavia’s deep connection with imperial Rome.

The Cathedral On the Square

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

As I stood before the regal, St. Louis Cathedral in the French Quarter, I watched a line of small schoolchildren, hand in hand, make their way to the entrance.

This brought me back to the day, when as a schoolchild on a field trip, I stood on this exact spot, mesmerized the city’s most notable landmark…one, known worldwide by its central position towering over iconic Jackson Square and its neighbors, the Cabildo and the Presbytere.

Though this beautiful cathedral is one for which the city is known, and is the oldest Catholic cathedral in continual use in the United States, few realize that The Cathedral-Basilica of St. Louis is actually the third Roman Catholic church to have stood on the site. When the city was founded, the first church erected here, in 1718, was a basic wooden structure for the early colonists’ worship. In 1725, the construction of a larger brick and timber church was begun and completed in 1727. When the Great New Orleans Fire ravaged the city in 1788, the church was destroyed. Rebuilding ensued and the new church was completed in 1794 with the church being elevated to cathedral rank. After a massive renovation to enlarge the structure was begun in 1849, resulting in the collapse of the central tower, it was finally decided to demolish most of the church resulting in very little of the Spanish Colonial structure remaining.

Today, what we can observe in Jackson Square dates back to 1850, however, the bell from the 1819 tower was reused and still there today.

The cathedral was designated a minor basilica by Pope Paul VI in 1965, but in front of the cathedral, you can spy a beautiful statue of Pope John Paul II, a gift of the Archdiocese of New Orleans and the American Italian Cultural Center. It was blessed by Pope Francis in Saint Peter’s Square and commemorates Pope John Paul II’s visit to the cathedral in 1987.

Entering the cathedral, I found the interior to be a well lit space though not as ornate one would expect. My eyes were immediately drawn upward to the beautifully detailed ceiling centered with a painting of St. Peter receiving his shepherd’s staff from the Savior and surrounded by apostles. Walking through the center aisle, I made my way to the great high Rococo style gilded altar flanked and topped by intricate statues. The three statues on the top represent faith, hope and charity and St. Paul, on the left of the tabernacle holds a book and St. Peter on the right, holds a book. Other statues with the cathedral depict St. Joan of Arc, Our Lady of Prompt Succor, St. Joseph, St. Anthony of Padua and the Sacred Heart of Jesus. In the foyer are statues of Mary, Queen of Poor Souls and St. Therese of Lisieux.

The cathedral is divided into nave and side aisles by two rows of wooden columns with an upper gallery lined with the flags of six countries and several local Catholic Dioceses. Passing through these columns, I made my way to the outer walls of the cathedral to inspect the beautifully rendered depictions of St. Louis IX, which tell stories of the saint’s life.

Glancing up at the organ, I admired its simplistic beauty. I later learned, however, that when Hurricane Katrina roared through the city in 2005, not much was spared including the cathedral. The powerful winds ripped a hole in the roof, which allowed water to enter, damaging the Holtkamppipe organ. The organ was sent back to Holtkamp to be rebuilt and finally reinstalled three years later.

Speaking with a volunteer docent, I also learned a couple of interesting tidbits about the cathedral. The cathedral contains the remains of eight New Orleans bishops. Another body buried in the church is Fr. Antonio de Sedella, commonly known as Père Antoine, who was a priest in the church. What is most intriguing about Père Antoine is that he loved his position at this particular location so deeply that he is alleged to haunt the premises. Accounts of parishioners and tourists claim that he walks the alley (named after him) next to the cathedral in the early mornings and appears during Christmas Midnight Mass near the left side of the altar, holding a a candle.

Another apparition often seen at the cathedral is that of Père Dagobert, a monk who resided in the church. If you visit on a rainy day, you might hear his voice chanting the Kyrie.

Although a Catholic house of worship, the cathedral has a rich history and appeals to visitors of all faiths and nationalities as evidenced by the large number of visitors meandering through the building while I was there. While wandering the French Quarter, have a look inside, attend Mass or better yet, try to get a glimpse of Père Antoine or Père Dagobert. All experiences you will never forget!

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St. Louis Cathedral

  • http://www.stlouiscathedral.org/
  • Address: 615 Pere Antoine Alley, New Orleans, LA 70116
  • Hours: Daily, 0830-1600. Daily Mass, 12:05
  • Tours: Self-guided brochures are available in the entrance for a $1.00 donation. Visitors can get an impromptu tour from our volunteer docents when available. Guided tours for groups are only available with prior reservations.
  • Admission: free
  • Tours: Self-guided brochures are available in the entrance for $1.00 donation and impromptu tours are available from volunteer docents when present.
  • Getting There: By bus, lines #5 and #55. By streetcar, line #49, found at St. Anne Street, 5 blocks northwest of the cathedral.

A Cross Across The River

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Walking along the River Reuss, between the ancient bridges that traverse the waterway, I looked over…

and spied a cross across the river…topping a church.

The Jesuit church, with its recognizable onion domed bell-towers, governs the left bank of the river. The first Baroque church built in Switzerland, it is also considered to be one of the most beautiful. Designed by Italian and Austrian architects, under the guidance of Jesuit Father Christoph Vogler, construction began in 1666 and the church was consecrated a short eleven years later. Though the interior was still lacking, the shell and main facade were completed. Upon the time of consecration, several side altars were still missing as well as the high altar and the towers were finally completed in 1893.

A major tourist attraction, I anticipated seeing throngs of people entering and exiting the building, however, all was quiet in front of the church, leading me to expect to find the doors locked. Surprisingly, I found them open and made my way into the beautiful interior.

When in Lucerne, it is best to cross the river and view the church from the other side of the river to admire the simplistic nature of its facade. As you enter, however, make sure to reexamine the facade from a closer perspective. It is over the entrance door where you can find the beautifully carved statue of the Jesuit missionary Saint Francis Xavier, the patron saint of the church.

Inside the church it is light and airy with gray and rose colored relief decorations embellishing the white interior. The nave, leading to the altar, displays a decorated vaulted ceiling depicting the glory of Saint Francis Xavier. At the front of the church is a grand altar-piece made of pink marble…or so you think. Upon closer inspection, you realize that it is actually made of plaster and stucco, a process perfected in the southern Alps where marble is difficult to transport.

As I turned to gaze back at the way that I came, I was able to see the main Metzler organ, built from 1980-1982, with parts from an organ dating back to the 18th century. This organ is frequently used for recitals held in the church.

Enjoying the side chapels, the most interesting I discovered is dedicated to Brother Klaus, a famous Swiss patron, whose life-sized statue stands clothed in a brown monk’s habit.

While the church no longer provides an important religious life, with the adjacent monastery college being abandoned, it does provide tourists with a destination within the Alstadt and both locals and visitors with a magnificent concert venue which comes alive with the sensational acoustics.

If you are in the mood to pray, reflect or admire…check out the Jesuit Church in Lucerne, one of its architectural gems.

Jesuitenkirche St. Franz-Xavier

The Catholic Superstar

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St. Vincent de Paul was born on April 24, in 1581 in the region of Landes, France. Growing up with deeply religious beliefs, he felt the calling to the priesthood early on and was ordained at the age of 19.

Working as a chaplain for Queen Margaret de Valois, he also served as a tutor to the Gondi family. It was during this time that he realized the inequities between the rich and poor and took on the rectification of this situation as his life’s mission.

After sixty years in the priesthood, where he served the poor and suffering, St. Vincent de Paul died on September 27, 1660. Canonized only 77 years later (considered record time) by Pope Clement XII, he was considered a saint among saints and such a Catholic superstar that in 1969, Pope Paul VI added his Feast Day to the official calendar as the 27th of September.

On a brisk fall day, it was this illustrious saint that I had come in search of in the 7th arrondissement of Paris. Located only a couple of blocks from the Chapel of the Miraculous Medal, where the saint’s heart is enshrined, the Shrine of St. Vincent de Paul (not to be confused with the Church of St. Vincent de Paul in the 10th arrondissement) is located inside the Church of the Lazarists Mission and houses a wax effigy of the saint.

Entering the church, I was surprised to find something extremely different from the Chapel of the Miraculous Medal, which I had just visited. An impressive festooned interior with intricate details decorating the walls, columns and doorways was framed by a high arched ceiling enhanced with blue and gold painting and framed, gilded medallions. While my impression of the Chapel of the Miraculous Medal had been of one that was light and airy, this church was more grand and elaborate and my eyes were immediately drawn to the grand altar filled with statues. Above the tabernacle, I could see the glass reliquary and St. Vincent de Paul’s likeness displayed within.

Since I had conducted some research before my visit, I was aware of the story of his exhumation. When first unearthed, the saint’s body first appeared to be incorrupt, however, when flooding damaged the area where his body had been placed, it began to show signs of decay. His heart was removed and sent to the Chapel of the Miraculous Medal and his skeletal remains covered with wax giving him a very realistic appearance.

Following the modest story of St. Vincent de Paul, conveyed through the pictures displayed in the stained glass and a canvas by Brother Francois, I walked along the side aisles which also displayed many statues and the casket containing the remains of St. Jean-Gabriel Perboyre. The polished marble floor reflected the lighting and the beautiful blue tiled ceilings.

From my viewpoint in front of the altar, I looked upward, admiring the glass and silver reliquary, designed by Odiot, the best goldsmith of his era. I bowed my head, said a prayer and continued on throughout the remainder of the church. As I neared the exit, I turned for one last look and a movement at the reliquary caught my eye.

A person.

Thinking it must be a member of the staff, I once again prepared to depart when I noticed the person hold up their cellphone for a selfie.

There had to be a way up there.

Making my way back toward the front of the church, I began to search for the way up. Deep behind the altar, I found it…a dual stairway, on either side, leading up to the holy treasure!

An easy climb led me to the top, allowing for the veneration of the relics at an amazingly close distance, and also being able to appreciate the outstanding craftsmanship of the reliquary, the intricate statues that guard the icon and a bird’s eye view of the church.

Thankful that I had turned for that one last look…I may have missed the most important part of this unique shrine.

Missing the ability to be so near the reliquary of such an important Catholic saint is only part of the issue with the church. A simple structure that one may just stroll by while in the area due to its plain facade, it must be sought out with a purpose. It is not a structure that a person simply stumbles upon…unless you like entering random doorways…however, it is one that any person with an affinity for Catholic history should seek out. Not only a beautiful church, it is one that honors an amazing Catholic saint.

Seek out this superstar…he’s still shining bright.

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The Shrine of Saint Vincent de Paul

  • Address:  95 Rue de Sèvres, 75007 Paris, France
  • Hours: 0800-1200 and 1400-1900 (unverified)
  • Admission:  free
  • Getting There: By Metro, Vaneau or Sèvres-Babylone stations. By Bus, number 39, 70 and 87.      

The Miraculous Medal

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Paris has always been a spiritual place for me.  

Having associated the city with its beautiful churches, cathedrals and miracles that have occurred within the country,  I truly love the peace it gives me when I visit.  

Years ago, I found myself with an extra day to fill while in the city.  Wandering through a part of town that I had never been to, I found the Chapel of Our Lady Miraculous Medal, tucked away on Rue de Bac, the location where the Blessed Virgin Mary appeared to Catherine Labouré in 1830.

The chapel’s location, is quite inconspicuous and I doubt that you would find it if you were not actively trying to do so.  Even so, thousands of visitors make their way to the chapel each year to attend mass and purchase the medals that Our Lady requested to be created.  

Dating back to 1813, the chapel was dedicated to the Sacred Heart of Jesus and located in the Hôtel de Châtillon.  It was expanded in 1849 and many times in the years after its inception.  The chapel we see today, was completed in 1930, however, the tabernacle, dating back to the seventeenth or eighteenth century is still as it was in 1815, coming from the building given to the Daughters of Charity in 1800.  

When Catherine Labouré was a seminary sister at the mother house of the Daughters of Charity of Saint Vincent de Paul, she began having visions.  In the first, Saint Vincent de Paul showed her his heart, each time in a different color;  white (peace), red (fire) and black (misfortunes that would come upon Paris and the entire country).  Her second vision displayed Christ presented in the Sacred Host, and then on The Feast of the Holy Trinity, He appeared as a crucified King, stripped of his adornments.

Her final vision came at the age of 24, when she received three visits from the Blessed Virgin Mary.  On July 18, the Blessed Virgin requested that Confraternity of the Children of Mary be established.  Mary’s second request was that a medal be created with the following invocation, “O Mary, conceived without sin, pray for us who have recourse to thee.”  Following her orders, the medal was forged and since its creation, countless miracles have been attributed to the medal as well as conversions and protection for those seeking it.

Everyone knows about the miracles that occur at Lourdes, however, it has been said that more miracles have occurred through devotion to the Blessed Mother while praying with this medal.  It became known as the Miraculous Medal when during the cholera epidemic in Paris, in 1832, the Sisters handed out medals and many people were unexpectedly cured and then turned their faith to God.

The first thing you notice upon entering the chapel, besides the large number of the devoted bowing their heads in prayer, is how light and airy the space is.  High ceilings frame the chapel and tall columns line either side, making way for the side aisles containing the shrine of Saint Louise de Marillac, co-foundress with Saint Vincent de Paul of the Daughters of Charity and the reliquary containing the heart of Saint Vincent de Paul.

As I approached the altar, I admired the tabernacle decorated with an angel carrying a cross and its carved door depicting the nativity, crowned with a shining star.  The tabernacle is flanked by two light-carrying angels and topped by a beautiful ivory crucifix.  Towering above the tabernacle is the large marble statue of the Virgin with the Rays.

Another statue of Mary, the Virgin of the Globe, caught my eye, holding the world in her hands.  

I walked over to inspect the aisle dedicated to Saint Vincent de Paul which contains the Altar of the Apparitions, a mosaic by Maison Maurmejean and the most important piece, the relic of the heart of Saint Vincent de Paul, which was brought to Paris from Turin during the Revolution.

Crossing over to the other aisle, I gazed upon the body of Saint Louise de Marillac, which has rested inside the chapel since 1920.

The main attraction of the chapel, however, is Catherine Labouré.  Buried in the chapel in Enghien-Reuilly, the location of her death, the vault was opened at the time of her beautification and her body was found to be perfectly intact.  It was transferred to the chapel and presently lies under the altar of Our Lady of the Globe in a glass coffin.  Many of the faithful kneel before her, laying down their burdens and tribulations.

After a few minutes spent in prayer, I headed out into the courtyard and into the gift shop.  There are many styles and sizes of the Miraculous Medal available for purchase as well as rosaries, prayer books and prayer cards.

A site of spirituality and miracles, a visit to the Chapel of Our Lady of the Miraculous Medal is a must for true believers.  See the spot where these holy apparitions took place and see the person responsible for the medal.  Purchase one, wear it and share it with other faithfuls.  

The Miraculous Medal Prayer

O Virgin Mother of God, Mary Immaculate, We dedicate and consecrate ourselves to you under the title of Our Lady of the Miraculous Medal. May this Medal be for each one of us a sure sign of your affection for us and a constant reminder of our duties toward you. Ever while wearing it, may we be blessed by your loving protection and preserved in the grace of your Son. O Most Powerful Virgin, Mother of Our Savior, keep us close to you every moment of our lives. Obtain for us, your children, the grace of a happy death; so that in union with you, we may enjoy the bliss of Heaven forever. 
Amen.

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Chapel of Our Lady of the Miraculous Medal

Church Overload

© 2018 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

One more church?  Uphill?  

No thanks.

Not wanting to make the uphill journey to San Cristobal, the final church on our Religious Ticket, a compromise was made to visit Iglesia de la Compañía de Jesús, located in the Plaza de Armas instead…especially when we found out that admission was free on that day.  

Of course, I had come to expect the No Photos rule by this time, and I was getting a little tired of seeing so many churches.  (Yes, I actually said this!)

But…free is free.

This massive church, commissioned by the Jesuits in 1571 and constructed in 1576, offers one of the best examples of Spanish Baroque architecture in Peru.  Competing effectively with the Cathedral on the northeast side of the plaza, the church has two bell towers and is connected to the Jesuit’s University of San Ignacia de Loyola.  

Though construction was begun in 1576, on the grounds of the palace of the Inca Huayna Capac, the church was badly damaged in the earthquake of 1650.  The present day building was finally completed, 18 years later, in 1668.

Some of the most notable pieces and features of the church include a painting of the Transfiguration of Christ at the high altar by Jesuit Diego de la Puente and a painting depicting the wedding of artín García de Loyola, the nephew of Ignatius Loyola with Beatriz (great-niece of the Inca ruler Tupac Amaru).  In the Sacristy are sculptures by Melchor Huaman Mayta of the saints San Jeronimo and San Francisco.

What I enjoyed the most, however, were the two towers.  Though the ascent was slow, allowing for the descent of other visitors on the narrow stairway, it was worth the steep climb, for the views looking out over the Plaza and the adjacent Cathedral.  You can also access the balcony from the left tower which allows visibility of the church’s interior.

If you have a few minutes, duck in for a quick look at this historical church…the access to the towers is absolutely worth your time!

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Iglesia de la Compañía de Jesús

  • Address:  Plaza de Armas, Cusco, Peru
  • Hours:  0900-1130 and 1300-1730, daily
  • Admission:  S/ 15

Time To Make the Climb!

© 2018 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

At some point during your visit to Cusco, you are bound to make the steep climb up the ancient Incan Road, Hathunrumiyoc (Quechua for great stone street”) and believe me, it is steep!

Passing the Archbishop’s Museum and the 12 angled stone set into the ancient perimeter wall, you will be huffing and puffing when you make it to the Plazoleta San Blas.  

Or maybe that was just me…still unaccustomed to Cusco’s high elevation. 

So why make the trip?  

The area is quite unique and filled with boutiques, restaurants and of course…a church.  A small church.  An ancient church.

The Templo San Blas.

Built in 1544, the primitive chapel was constructed on the site of an old Inca temple dedicated to Illapa, the god of thunder and lightning.  Set in the oldest parish of Cusco, the church, built by Viceroy Francisco Toledo, was originally built with mud bricks, but was reconstructed with stone walls after the earthquake of 1950.  

An earlier earthquake also played a pivotal role in the church’s history.  About a hundred years after its erection, an earthquake shook the city and the old neighborhood of T’oqokachi.  Once the church had been rebuilt and restored, it became an important temple and began to be decorated with extravagant and important artwork.

The collection of paintings exhibited in the church include one displaying the Life and Miracles of San Blas by artist Fabian Perez de Medina and a canvas of the resurrection of Lazarus, by Master Diego Quispe Tito.  It’s greatest attraction, however, is the beautifully intricate pulpit carved of Cusquenian cedar, known worldwide.  One legend has it that it was made by a local man who who miraculously healed from leprosy, another suggests that it was created by famous Quechua woodcarvers, and still, it is also thought to have been created by either Diego Quispe Tito or
Juan Tomas Tuyru Tupac.

 As we entered the simple looking church, our tickets were validated and we entered, not expecting to see much.  What a surprise was in store for us!

As was becoming the norm, no photographs were allowed and someone was actively walking throughout the church watching our actions.  If only I could have captured the beauty that was laid forth before us in greater detail.  Trying to slyly snap a couple of photographs of the amazing altar and the pulpit, I was reprimanded by the guard…though I was successful.  A bit embarrassed, we decided to head up to the bell tower where we were able to take photographs of the plaza beneath us and of the tower and bell.  The views from here were spectacular in the beautiful afternoon.   

Once we descended from the bell tower, the church had gained more visitors, but we were still unable to capture more photos. 

While the church is included in the Religious Ticket, it is worth the price of single admission because of its rich history, amazing interior and views! Take the time…make the climb!  Up the hill and to the belltower!

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Templo San Blas

  • Address:  Plazoleta San Blas, Cusco, Peru
  • Hours:  Monday to Saturday, 0800-1800, Sunday, 1000-1800
  • Admission:  Adult, S /. 15.00 (about $4.45 US).  Student: S /. 7.50 (about $2.20 US).  Admission with the Religious Ticket (also incorporating two other churches and museum), S /. 30.00 (about $10.50 US).