Tag: church

The Middle of the City

© 2020 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

There are five UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Ecuador.

The city of Quito received the prestigious honor in 1978.

Notorious for it equatorial crossing, Quito is known as the Middle of the World. It’s famous Old Town, which helped to earn its UNESCO World Heritage status, can be found in the middle of the city.

Founded in the 16th century on the ruins of an Inca city, the capital of Ecuador is one of the best preserved and least altered historic centers in Latin America. The city’s chief attraction is its Old Town, el Centro Historico, and its ample array of churches, monasteries and convents which date back to the beginnings of the colony. The Old Town spans a relatively small area, so it is quite easy to cover the distance in a day. Trying to decide what to see within that area is the most difficult part.

The best way to begin the exploration of Quito is in the Plaza de la Independencia, the city’s main square. Since the Basilica had taken up our entire morning, we would officially begin our tour the Old Town here.

Also known to the locals as Plaza Grande, the square is a part of the city’s rich history and a place where they go to chat, relax, play, eat and sometimes, get their shoes polished! It is surrounded by some of the most beautiful buildings in the city, including the Governor’s Palace (Palacio de Gobierno), the home and office of the Ecuadorian president, the Metropolitan Cathedral (Cathedral Metropolitana) and a centralized fountain surrounded by well manicured gardens.

Deciding to have a bite to eat before beginning our explorations we wandered into the Palacio Arzobispal (Archbishop’s Palace), a beautiful manor located along the north side of the plaza, which is the official residence of the Archbishop of Quito. In its three cobblestone courtyards, there is a multitude of shops and eateries. In this mall, we found Cafe del Fraile situated on the second floor, extending onto the ornate wooden balconies.

The food and service were equally as good as the scenery, both inside the restaurant and out. Seated on the balcony, we had an excellent view of the courtyard below and of some of the beautiful religious artwork that decorated it. So mesmerized by the theological pieces, I had to take a walk throughout all of the rooms, to make sure I didn’t miss anything!

After our meal was complete, we proceeded into the plaza. We found that the police had completely surrounded the square with tall wire fencing and would only let us out onto Venezuela Street. Not sure what was happening, our question was answered a short time later when a band of protesters came marching down the street, carrying signs and bullhorns. Deciding to cross over to the other side of the square on another street, we headed to the Church of La Compañía de Jesus (The Church of the Society of Jesus).

After paying our admission, I inquired as to whether photos were allowed. Not surprisingly, I was told no, as is the norm in many of the churches in Ecuador. Of course, after beginning our tour of the church, I was so enthralled with the sheer artistry of the interior, that I had to try and capture as much as I could without being seen.

Built over a span of 160 years, this church is known as the most beautiful church in the city and possibly all of Ecuador. Its gold leaf interior, elaborate design and traditional architecture are some of the most captivating I have ever witnessed.

Moving on, we headed to the El Museo Camilo Egas…well, not really headed. As we were walking by, we were invited in by the security guard. Not sure of what we were going in to see, we just decided to go with it.

This museum is dedicated to one of the great modern Ecuadorian artists of the twentieth century, Camilo Egas. This exhibition showed the different stages of his work during his lifetime (1898-1962) and is housed in a beautifully restored 17th century mansion.

As we walked along in the city, we enjoyed the handsome architecture…some buildings in better condition than others. The thing we enjoyed the most, however, was the people, most going about their daily activities and those practicing their traditional trades…the hatters, shoemakers and food vendors.

It was pretty easy to navigate the city using Google Maps on my Iphone, however, people often relate that making their way around the Old Town can be quite confusing. Noticing different types of signs, we learned that many streets have two different names…the official name on green plaques and the historical name painted on ceramic tiles. Most streets in the immediate Old Town area, however, have been laid in a grid-like fashion, from north to south, so getting around the center is fairly easy.

Heading in the direction of Panecillo Hill, we had decided to make our way to Calle La Ronda, the local nightlife area, when we were stopped by the police. Apparently we stuck out like the tourists that we were and they wanted to make sure that we were cautious if we were heading toward Calle La Ronda, an area sometimes known for pickpockets and thieves. A lively area in the evenings, we had thought to check it out during the day in the event that we decided to head there for dinner later that evening.

Though the walk was uneventful, heading down off of the overpass to access Calle de la Ronda, seemed a little sketchy. Once we were on the street, however, we found it to be quiet and lined with many historic buildings. It was interesting to find out that in the past, men would serenade the women on the balconies. If they sung well, they were invited to come in and meet the family and the woman. For those that could not carry a tune? They were only met with a bucket of water to their head!

Music still plays a big part on the mile-long stretch of the pedestrian street. During the evenings, especially on Friday and Saturday, the music is cranked up and you can find many restaurants cooking up Ecuadorian specialties and vendors selling handicrafts. We did head there later that evening, but found the loud music to be quite overwhelming and chose a quieter restaurant at the far end of the street.

Swinging by the Plaza Santo Domingo, I had hoped to be able to enter the church, however we found it to be closed. Inquiring with some of the vendors, I was told it would be open later in the day. Knowing our afternoon was coming to a close, I admired the uncrowded plaza which lent to some beautiful photos and we moved on. Later that evening, when we departed Calle La Ronda, we were able to observe the Church of Santo Domingo lit up beautifully and how crowded the square had become. If street performers is your thing, this is the place to go!

Continuing on our walk through Old Town, we decided to visit the Museo del Carmen Alto which is situated on the location where Saint Mariana of Jesus (Quito’s patron saint) lived and died. (Read more about it in a future post)

Nearing Plaza Independencia, we found that the police had removed the barricades and the square was back to its normal everyday routine. Though my husband was growing tired of visiting churches and desperately wanted to grab a seat and have a beer, I persuaded him to make one last push.

The Metropolitan Cathedral situated on the southern side of the plaza was a place that I had really wanted to visit and it did not disappoint. Though it is not as extravagant from the exterior, the interior has some amazing treasures. (You can read more about in in a future post)

So that was it! SO much to do in Quito’s old town and we had only made a dent. We were spending the next day traveling out to Otavalo and its sprawling market, so seeing the rest of Quito’s treasures would have to wait until a future visit.

When spending time in Quito, there is so much more to see…the Museo Alberto Mena Caamaño and its waxworks, the Casa de María Augusta Urrutia or the Casa de Sucre, to get a glimpse inside the best preserved Old Town houses and the Governor’s Palace (tours leave every 20 minutes starting at 0900). And for the church lovers like me, there are countless sanctuaries throughout the city, many within Old Town, including Plaza de San Francisco and its baroque church, Basilica of our Lady of the Merced, The Church of El Sagrario, Carmen Bajo, Church of San Agustin, Santa Catalina de Sienna Church and Convent, Church of San Blas, El Belén, The Guápulo Church and Convent.

I really must go back!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

El Museo Camilo Egas

  • Address: Venezuela 1302, Quito, Pichincha
  • Hours: Monday-Friday, 0900-1700, Saturday-Sunday, 1000-1600
  • Admission: $1.00

Cafe Del Fraile

  • http://cafedelfraile.com/
  • Address: Chile Oe 4-22, Venezuela, Palacio, Arzobispal Mall, Quito, Pinchincha 170150
  • Hours: Monday-Saturday, 0900-1100, Sunday, 1000-0900

Plaza de la Independencia

  • Address: Garcia Moreno St. and Chile St., Venezuela, Quito, 170401, Ecuador
  • Hours: 24 hours, daily
  • Admission: free

Church of the Jesuits

Museo del Carmen Alto

  • http://www.museocarmenalto.gob.ec/
  • Address: Garcia Moreno y Rocafuerte, Junto al Arco de la Reina, Quito, Pinchincha 17015
  • Hours: Wednesday-Sunday, 0930-1730, daily
  • Admission: Adults, $3.00, Children, $1.00

Museo Catedral Primada de Quito

  • http://www.catedraldequito.org/
  • Address: Venezuela y Espejo 715, Quito 
  • Hours: Monday-Saturday, 0930-1700
  • Admission: National Tourists, Adults, $2.00, Children, Students, Seniors, People with Disabilities, $1.00. Visit to Domes (Church+Museum+Domes) $4.00. Foreign Tourists, Adults, $3.00, Children, Students, Seniors, People with Disabilities, $2.00. Visit to Domes (Church+Museum+Domes) $6.00.

One More Off the List

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

There are more than 900 churches in Rome.

I intend to see them all.

Recently, while walking in the Pinciano quarter, near Villa Borghese, I happened upon the church of Santa Teresa d’Avila, an early 20th century minor basilica.

Finding the doors unlocked, I ventured in to see what this church was about.

Designed in the neo-Romanesque style, the church was constructed rather quickly, beginning in 1901, and completed only one year later. Made a parochial church by Pope Pius X in 1906, the church was entrusted to the Discalced Carmelite friars, who to this day, continue to serve the parish with their convent located next door. Forty-five years later, under the orders of Pope Pius XII, the church’s status was elevated to Minor Basilica.

The exterior of the building is constructed of red brick and is rather unremarkable except for the two-storied entrance facade with its four columns and elaborately carved relief depicting Christ Blessing St. Teresa. The main entrance is graced with a bronze door designed by Fra Serafino Melchiore and the reliefs depicts scenes from the life of St. Teresa.

Sufficient to say, I hoped the interior would differ from the exterior thinking back to many of the churches I had visited in the city. Sadly, I found the decor to be quite plain except for a few decorative additions. Designed in a Latin cross plan, there were eight side altars, dedicated to Carmelite saints and two altars flanking the sanctuary and a main altar. Adorned with works by 20th century Roman artists, there was a wheel window with stained glass showing Christ the Apostles over the entrance, 18th century wooden choir stalls hailing from Santa Maria in Campo Marzio and a 17th century bronze crucifix by Pietro Tacca. Behind a screen of carved limestone, there was also a choir which contained a life-sized statue of St. Teresa.

My time in the church of Santa Teresa d’Avila was short and although I was not overwhelmed by my visitation, I’m glad I decided to take a quick look.

One more church marked off the Rome list!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Santa Teresa d’Avila Catholic Church

  • Address: Italia Street, 37 – 00198 Rome, Italy
  • Hours: Weekdays, 0700-1200, 1615-1915, Sundays, 0800-1300, 1615-1915
  • Admission: free
  • Mass schedule: Weekdays, 0730, 0830, 1830. Sundays, 0930, 1030, 1200 and 1830

The Papal Basilica of St. Peter’s

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Ever see something many times, yet never tire of it?

This is how I feel about St. Peter’s Basilica.

It’s no secret that I love churches, but this one surpasses all.

Situated on Vatican Hill, St. Peter’s Basilica can be seen from many parts of Rome, beckoning visitors, that total in the millions every year, from all over the world. One of only four Major basilicas in the world (with the other three also in Rome…St. Paul’s Outside the Walls, Santa Maria Maggiore and St. John the Lateran), this basilica achieved its fame as it derives its name from the fact that it was built on the site where St. Peter was buried in 64 AD.

This UNESCO world heritage site has a capacity of over 60,000 people and covers an area of over 22,300 square meters, making it one of the world’s largest churches. Originally the site of the Circus of Nero and a cemetery, the original basilica was erected between the years of 319 and 349 AD under the orders of Emperor Constantine, the first Christian emperor of Rome. Falling into disrepair after standing for over 1,000 years, Pope Julius II (who also commissioned the Sistine Ceiling) made the decision to demolish and rebuild the structure.

The greatest architects of the Roman Renaissance and Baroque were consulted and utilized for this new basilica, including Bramante, Raphael, Michelangelo, Donato, Giacomo della Porta and Maderno with Bramante’s original design being chosen in 1506. After 120 years, the basilica was completed and consecrated by Pope Urban VIII.

St. Peter’s Square, itself, is an architectural highlight, designed by Bernini in the seventeenth century, and is overlooked by the Loggia della Benedizione, the central balcony from where the pope delivers his Urbi et Orbi blessing at Christmas and Easter. It is here, on the right, where you join the queue to enter St. Peter’s basilica. The line moves quite quickly, however, the time seemed to drag as we stood in the heat of the August afternoon, making our way to the security screening area.

Finally, we entered the massive church and as always, I found myself unsure of where to turn first. There is so much to see on the main level of St. Peter’s including the Michelangelo’s Pieta, located to the right of the entrance, between the Holy Door and the altar of Saint Sebastian.. Carved from a single slab of marble, it was created by Michelangelo when he was only twenty-two years of age and is one of his first works of art. It is the only piece he ever created that was signed.

Take a look around on the floor nearby, and see if you can spot the red disk that marks that spot where Charlemagne and later Holy Roman Emperors were crowned by the pope.

Walking along the right and left naves, there were many side altars to admire, each more beautiful than the next, but it was what was at the high altar that commanded our attention. Here, Bernini’s famous baldachin is supported by four spiral columns and made with bronze from taken from the Pantheon. The baldechin stands over the altar which sits above the site of St. Peter’s grave. So holy is this site that the pope is the only priest allowed to serve at the altar.

Above us, the dome, also created by Michelangelo, was another of the basilica’s highlights. Soaring to a height of almost four hundred feet, this dome was based on Brunelleschi’s design for the Duomo in Florence. The cupola is supported by four stone piers names after the saints whose statues adorn the Bernini designed niches…Longinus, Helena, Veronica and Andrew. Having been up in the cupola before, I was anxious to see the remaining features before heading upwards.

Another of the basilica’s treasures is the 13th century bronze statue of St. Peter. Designed by Arnolfo di Cambio, what is immediately noticed is that statue’s right foot is extremely shiny…due to the centuries of caresses by visitors hoping to receive blessings by rubbing the extremity.

Heading into the Museo Storico Artistico, located in the left nave, we perused the multitude of sacred relics, including a jewel-studded cross gifted to the church by emperor Justinian II, a 6th century Crux Vaticana and a tabernacle by Donatello.

Finding our way to the Vatican Grottoes beneath the basilica, it is here that visitors can pay their respects to the tombs and sarcophagi of 91 popes that have served the Catholic church during its long history. You can also see the several large columns from the original 4th century basilica here, but my favorite part of being in this space is the tomb of the most beloved St. John Paul II, the second longest-serving pope in modern history who is credited in ending Communist rule. It is also interesting to note that in addition to the entombed popes, there are three women laid to rest here; Queen Christina of Sweden, Agnesina Colonna Caetani and Queen Charlotte of Cyprus.

Beneath this area, excavations have uncovered what is believed to be the tomb of St. Peter. This area, however, is accessible only to those escorted by a guide, booked well in advance.

Making our way back upstairs, we decided that it was time to head upstairs, to the dome and the cupola. The dome’s ticket entrance is located on the right of the basilica’s main portico and a major decision is to be made here when purchasing a ticket.

Walk up the 551 steps to the top (kudos to those who do) or take the lift halfway and climb the remaining 320 steps. Of course, we had had a long day, traveling from Naples and exploring the Vatican, so you probably guess what our decision was.

After exiting the lift, we walked around the first level, taking in the beautiful mosaics that line the walls making up the dome’s design and the birds’ eye view of the basilica below.

Walking out onto the roof of the basilica, we walked out to check out the statues of Jesus and the Apostles that can be seen on the roof of the basilica from the square. There is also a bathroom, a refreshment stand and a gift shop that you can mail your Vatican City postmarked postcards from.

Continuing onward and upward, it was here that the journey becomes a little more challenging. This second part requires the climbing of the remaining 320 steps to the top. There is a narrow, single-file, spiral staircase that requires you to lean in to accommodate the slanting of the roof and at the end, a corkscrew staircase. Though there are some windows along the way, this part definitely made me feel extremely claustrophobic and I could not wait to reach the top.

Once I did, however, the views of the city and St. Peter’s Square below were breathtaking!

Who could ever tire of this?

That’s why I keep coming back!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

St. Peter’s Basilica

  • http://www.vatican.va/various/basiliche/san_pietro/index_it.htm
  • Address: Piazza San Pietro, 00120 Città del Vaticano, Vatican City
  • Hours: October 1 until March 31, 0700-1830, April 1 until September 30, 0700-1900. Dome Access, October 1 until March 31, 0730-1700, April 1 until September 30, 0700-1800.
  • Admission: Basilica, free. Dome Access, including lift to terrace level and continue on foot (320 steps), € 10.00. Ascent on foot (551 steps), € 8.00. Reductions for schools are possible by presenting an attestation of the Institute with the list of participants, € 5.00
  • Getting There: Metro, Line A, Ottaviano stop and then a 10 minute walk. Bus lines 64, 62, 40 and 81 and Hop On/Hop Off buses drop off in Vatican City. Children under 10 travel free on all public transport. By car, the nearest parking facility is the underground five-story park, Terminal Gianicolo, a ten minute walk from St. Peter’s Basilica.

Over My Head

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

There are many unique highlights that visitors aspire to visit on a trip to the Rome.

There is one, however, that tops the list.

The Sistine Chapel.

Located in Vatican City, the smallest country in the world, the Vatican Museums receive more than six million visitors a year who come to see the seventeen museums that make up the complex. The Sistine Chapel, is the pièce de résistance.

Having been to the Vatican museums many years ago on a couple of occasions, I knew that in order to obtain entrance to the Sistine Chapel, there are many chambers and rooms to pass through and countless masterpieces to study before reaching the famed chapel.

Being the height of the summer season, the line snaked around the exterior of the building and the interior was overloaded, Walking slowly, shoulder to shoulder, we quickly realized that reaching the Sistine Chapel was going to take an extensive amount of time and much jockeying for position.

Passing through the various collections, the Gregorian Profane Museum, Ethnological Missionary Museum, Pinacoteca, Pio-Clementino Museum, Rafaello Rooms and the Chiaramonti Museum, we struggled with the heat and the incessant jostling from other people trying to see what each collection had to offer.

The one thing I realized was that I was enduring this to show my son the glorious treasure that awaited us deep in the museum. A glorious ceiling painted by Michaelangelo…and yet, as I looked here, above me, there were countless paintings over my head. Yes, many artworks on the walls, but each room’s ceilings were painted exquisitely, setting the stage for what was to come.

We admired what we could in each of the galleries, but I kept my head aimed high and marveled at what was above.

Finally, we spotted the signs directing us to the Sistine Chapel!

As we entered the chapel, I immediately snapped a picture of the ceiling and was reprimanded by one of the guards. Making our way into the throng of people passing along the outer wall, I realized that if we kept walking, we were going to leave the chapel without having had the time to inspect what had taken so long to reach. Pushing out of the moving queue, we made our way to the center of the room where there were many people standing.

Protected from guarded eyes by the people around me, I was able to capture a few photographs of the jewel of the Vatican before just taking a few moments to relish the fact that we were indeed in one of the most magnificent holy places and working chapels in the world.

The Sistine Chapel was erected between the years of 1473 and 1481 by architect Giovanni dei Dolci under the orders of Pope Sixtus IV. Although its exterior is nothing spectacular, the interior is what over 6 million visitors come to see annually. Its frescoes on the side walls were painted by Florentine Renaissance masters (1481-1483) and depict the lives of Christ and Moses and various popes. The lowest parts of the side walls are covered for ceremonial occasions, depicting events from the Gospels and the Acts of the Apostles and were designed by Raphael (1515-1519).

The most important part of the chapel are the reason all visitors leave with a crook in their necks…the frescoes by Michelangelo on the ceiling and on the west wall behind the altar. The entire collection of frescoes on the ceiling are collectively known as the Sistine Ceiling and were commissioned by Pope Julius II in 1508 depicting incidents and personages from the Old Testament. Many years later (1534-1541), Michaelangelo was commissioned again, by Pope Paul III, to paint the Last Judgment fresco on the west wall.

It is so spectacular, it is almost too much to take in and before long, we realized that we had outstayed our welcome. Reluctantly finding our way to the exit, we entered the Borgia apartments and continued our journey through the remaining parts of the museum.

To see everything that the Vatican Museums has to offer, it would take days. The Vatican Museums encompass the world’s largest private art collection (with its origins dating back to 1503) and most of what is in their possession, not on display. If you are interested in seeing as much as you can of the Vatican Museums, I would recommend starting your day early and having a plan, including a map with the items you are most interested in seeking out. Since on this day, we had hoped to see what we could of the museums, with the Sistine Chapel being our main focus, and St. Peter’s Basilica, we limited ourselves to what little we could achieve.

Me? Since I had been there before on a couple of occasions, I was content that I had seen something new. Never before had I realized what was over my head when I was so mesmerized by all that was around me. I understand that many people have that one opportunity to visit Rome and see what they can. Thankfully, I have been blessed to have had more than one chance.

If you ever find yourself in Rome for a second (or third) time, take the time to go back to the Vatican again and again. You never know what else you might find!

What you can expect to see in each of the museums:

  • Pio-Clementino Museum: Created by popes Clement XIV and Pius VI, this museum holds the most important Greek works in the Vatican.
  • Apartment of Pius V: The work of Pope Pius V, this museum contains Flemish tapestries from the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, a collection of medieval ceramics and another of medieval miniature mosaics.
  • Gallery of the Chandeliers: Roman replicas of Greek originals and enormous chandeliers from the second century A.D. decorate this elegant gallery.
  • Ethnological Missionary Museum: This museum contains works of art from all the papal missions of the world, among which there are objects originating from Tibet, Indonesia, India, the Far East, Africa and America.
  • Gallery of Maps: Carried out between the years 1580 and 1585, the beautiful maps painted in fresco on the walls of this gallery represent the Italian regions and the possessions of the Church.
  • Historical Museum – Carriage Pavilion: In this section you will find coaches, saddles, cars, and Vatican City’s first locomotive.
  • Gallery of Tapestries: Exhibition of Flemish tapestries created between 1523 and 1534.
  • Pio-Christian Museum: The collection of Christian antiquities is composed of statues, sarcophagi and archaeological ruins from the sixth century.
  • Pinacoteca: The eighteen rooms in the Pinacoteca building contain pictorial works dating from the Middle Ages until 1800.
  • Sobieski Room and the Room of the Immaculate: In both rooms you will find paintings originating in the Italian “Ottocento”.
  • Egyptian Museum: Among other pieces acquired by the popes you can find some impressive Egyptian sculptures, besides the prized sarcophagi from the third century B.C. There are also some black basalt statues originating from the Villa Adriana, which are replicas of Egyptian models.
  • Etruscan museum: This part of the museum contains elements of ceramic, bronze and gold belonging to the Etruscan civilization.
  • Chiaramonti Museum: Created thanks to Pius VII Chiaramonti, this gallery holds thousands of sculptures including portraits of emperors, images of the gods and some funeral monuments.
  • Gregorian Profane Museum: Greek and Roman sculptures are exhibited here from the first to third centuries A.D.
  • Borgia Apartment: The apartments that belonged to the Pope Alexander VI Borgia today serve as exhibition rooms for the Collection of Modern Religious Art.
  • Raphael Rooms: Rafael and his assistants decorated the apartments of the Pope Julius II.
  • Sala Della Biga: Holding court in this space is a monumental marble figure of a chariot drawn by two horses carried out in the first century A.D.

Check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snapping the globe for more pictures.

Vatican Museums and Sistine Chapel

  • Vatican Official Website http://www.museivaticani.va/content/museivaticani/en.html
  • Sistine Chapel
  • http://www.museivaticani.va/content/museivaticani/it/collezioni/musei/cappella-sistina/storia-cappella-sistina.html
  • Address: 00120 Vatican City
  • Hours: Monday-Saturday, 0900-1800 (final entry, 1600). Every last Sunday of the month, 0900-1400 (final entry, 1230). Closed on Sundays (except the last Sunday of each month), 1 January, 11 February 19 March, 22 April, 1 May, 29 June, 14 and 15 August, 1 November, 25 and 26 December
  • Admission: No guide. Adults, 17.00€, Reduced 8.00€, Online booking fee, 4.00€. For audioguide, add additional 7.00€. Prices vary for guided tours, please consult Vatican Official website.
  • Getting There: Metro, Line A, Ottaviano stop and then a 10 minute walk. Bus lines 64, 62, 40 and 81 and Hop On/Hop Off buses drop off in Vatican City. Children under 10 travel free on all public transport. By car, the nearest parking facility is the underground five-story park, Terminal Gianicolo, a ten minute walk from Vatican City.

Important to note: Proper dress is required and visitors can be denied access even with a ticket. The following clothing items are not allowed in the Vatican Museums, the Sistine Chapel, St. Peter’s Basilica and the Vatican Gardens…mini skirts, shorts above the knee, sleeveless tops, lowcut clothing, hats. The Vatican’s dress code applies to both men and women.

Photos are not allowed in the Sistine Chapel.

Happy Valentine

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Most people visit the church of Santa Maria in Cosmedin only to see the Mouth of Truth.

Even when approaching the church, visitors often forget to admire the medieval facade with its seven open arches, seven windows and slender Romanesque belltower (added in the 12th century), as they ponder the long line snaking out from the portico.

Should we wait? Or shouldn’t we?

Whether one decides to take their place in the interminable line to place their hand between the jaws of the stone face’s mouth or not, a short visit to the church should be in order.

Santa Maria in Cosmedin was founded during the sixth century on the site of an ancient temple dedicated to Hercules Invictus which was last rebuilt in the 2nd century BC.

With its name being derived from the Greek word, kosmidioin, meaning ornamented, it would be expected that the interior would be one decorated beautifully. Though that was once the case, the minor basilica’s only surviving enhancements are some floor mosaics, a bishop’s chair, a ceremonial canopy and the medieval choir enclosure.

The church’s main draw, however, is the glass shrine with the skull of St. Valentine, patron saint of love, located on the left side of the church. Once located in the lower level crypt, the remains of the martyr, who now lends his name to the holiday we celebrate on February 14 (the day of his death) can be admired on its own altar. The skull wears a wreath of flowers and has a stenciled inscription across the skull.

Though there are ten St. Valentine’s listed in the Roman Catholic register of saints, the one whose skull resides in Santa Maria in Cosmedin church is believed to be a holy priest who assisted St. Marius in giving aid to the martyrs persecuted under Claudius II. After being summoned by the Emperor to Rome, demanded to renounce his faith and refusing, he was beaten and beheaded.

The church is quite small but make sure not to miss the ancient Crypt of Adrian I, located under the presbytery. Created between the years of 772 and 795, it is a small space divided into three naves by six columns and reminiscent of a small basilica. There is a small altar at the far end and it is believed that the crypt once housed other relics (Cirilla, Adauctus, Valentino, Adriano, Amelia, Antonino, Clemenza, Generous, Ottavio, Patrick, Olympia and St. John Baptist de Rossi). According to legend, an ancient tunnel once connected the crypt to the catacombs on the Appian Way.

Santa Maria in Cosmedin is located adjacent to Circus Maximus and just across the river from the Trastevere, the funky bohemian area of Rome filled with restaurants, shops and of course, more churches.

Make sure to include it in your day of sightseeing…then you can say you had a Happy Valentine’s Day!

Check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe for more pictures.

Santa Maria in Cosmedin

Positively Positano!

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Are there any movies that have a scene that just “sticks” with you?

I have always loved the movie Under the Tuscan Sun. One memorable scene is when the main character, Frances, goes to Positano to meet her amore Marcello.

I had never seen any place quite like the alluring town cascading down the mountainside toward the sea. I remember thinking, that I needed to see this Italian paradise for myself!

It had been sixteen years since I had seen that movie and I had still not made it to Positano. Since my son and I were staying in Naples, we decided that we would make the journey to Positano to fulfill my dream of visiting this beautiful town on the Amalfi Coast.

Taking the same Circumvesuviana train that we had taken a couple of days before to Pompeii, we continued on, past that stop, to Sorrento. Here, we purchased tickets for the City Sightseeing bus to Positano. The winding journey along the coast was picturesque, alternating between grassy fields, small towns, mountain passes and ocean views. Thirty-five minutes later, as we drove along a cliffside road, Positano suddenly came into view…and it was breathtaking!

As we were dropped off along the main road, we headed on foot toward the town’s center. It was hard to make headway on the narrow sidewalks clogged with throngs of tourists and because every few feet, we had to stop at the many spectacular overlooks.

There it was! The quaint and colorful Italian town of Positano…defying gravity and clinging to the cliffs of the Amalfi coast!

Scanning the map we had grabbed at the Sorrento train station, we decided to head toward the town’s center. Turning on to the pedestrian friendly Viale Passitea, we ducked into the small church on the corner. Finding it to be charming, yet unassuming, our visit was short as we were anxious to see what lay in store for us further down the steep path down to the coast.

The walkway, at times, was covered by beautiful trellises covered with bougainvillea, keeping us cooler during the heat of the day, and we passed an endless number of shops selling artwork, clothing, shoes and gifts. There were boutiques, art galleries, ceramic shops and many artists working on their craft. Moving with the crowds, it was impossible to take it all in!

Eventually, we found ourselves in the heart of Positano, the seafront, with its many restaurants lining the boardwalk and its golden beach filled with hundreds of sun seekers, hoping to bring home a souvenir tan.

The Church of Santa Maria Assunta, with its iconic multi-colored dome, lies parallel to the azur waters of the Tyrrhenian Sea and the Marina Grande and from its piazza, set higher on the cliff, it is a popular spot to look out over the seaside.

Heading inside to snag a reprieve from the heat, we found the beauty of this church, dating back to the 10th century abbot it once was, to be quite spectacular.

Santa Maria Assunta was established when a Byzantine icon of the Blessed Virgin was brought to Positano by the order of the Benedictines. Part of the cargo of a sailing ship from the East, the icon was credited with a miracle. Stopped by a dead calm and unable to sail, the sailors heard a voice calling out, “Posa! Posa!” (“Put me down”). Interpreting the words to mean that that they were to head to shore, it was then that the ship was able to sail once again and headed to the small community that eventually gained it’s name, Positano, from the Virgin’s words. The Virgin was given to the residents who chose her as their patron and built a church in her honor.

After a falling into disrepair, restorations began in the late 1700’s and lasted five years when Archbishop Antonio Puoti crowned the Virgin’s icon with a golden crown. Today, the statue of the Madonna is heavily guarded in St. Stephen’s chapel but is displayed on the main altar (as it was was during our visit), on special religious occasions and carried in procession on the beach on August 15…disappointing that we would miss this important celebration a few days away.

Amidst the interior, which boasts a nave, two aisles and five arches, there are five chapels on each side. On the right, you can admire the chapels of St. Blaise, the Immaculate Conception, St. Anthony, and St. Anne followed by the Altar of the Circumcision on the right end. Displayed here is the rare painting, Circumcision by Fabrizio Santafede dating back to 1599.

“Circumcision” by Fabrizio Santafede

Above the high altar is the Byzantine icon of the Blessed Virgin. To the right, is the Chapel of St. Stephen, which in addition to usually housing the Madonna statue, also displays one of the most valuable works of art in the Amalfi Coast; the embossed silver reliquary bust of St. Vito, dating back to the 16th century. The chapel also contains relics of other martyrs.

The Chapel of St. Stephen
The Bust of St. Vitus

Make sure not to miss the two niches on each side of the apse which house Our Lady of Sorrows on the right and a valuable Christ at the column (1798) on the left, the chapel of the Blessed Sacrament to the left of the high altar and the altar of Our Lady of Mount Carmel which contains a beautiful painting from the Chartreuse of Serra San Bruno in Calabria. The chapels of the Crucifixion, the Annunciation, St. Vito and St. Nicholas of Bari are located along the left aisle.

When exiting the church, take a glance upwards at the majestic organ above the central door in the choir and check out the baptismal font in the right corner.

There are many treasures throughout this historic church and you should allow yourself enough time to wander freely. Even outside, you can take note of the belltower, which was built in 1707, and above the belltower door a medieval bas-relief portraying the seven fish and a wolf mermaid. Above the relief, a stone dating back to 1902, remembers Flavio Gioia of Positano, the inventor of the compass.

Heading toward the Spiaggia Grand (Big Beach), it was tempting to shed out outer layers for a quick, refreshing dip, however, we didn’t want to shell out money for umbrellas on the private side (left) for such a short time and the public side (right) was quite congested. Besides, if we got all wet and sandy, it would make the rest of our afternoon and evening, which was to include dinner in Sorrento, a bit uncomfortable.

So…we opted for gelato instead!

After our frosty treat, we glanced out at three of the thirty watchtowers that once protected the Amalfi coast from Saracen pirates. These towers were all within sight of each other and communication warning of danger was in the form of smoke signals.

We then headed west along the Via Positanesi D’America, a small lane that runs along the coast towards the Positano’s small beach, Fornillo, where the locals go to escape the tourist crowds. It was hot, but we were rewarded with beautiful views of the azur waters and a close-up view of the Torre Trasita (16th century), one of the historical watchtowers, located on the rocky cliff. Today, this tower operates as a guesthouse and rooms can be rented by the night for a unique experience on the Amalfi Coast.

Fornillo Beach
Fornillo Beach

Realizing that much of our day had flown by, it was time to head back to the bus stop and to Sorrento.

Though there are so many beautiful towns to explore past Positano (Praiano, Amalfi, Ravello), time was not on our side. If we wanted to discover Sorrento, it was time to say arrivederci to Positano.

Though Positano was positively stunning and we enjoyed our visit, I do have to admit that it was not quite as I envisioned because I had first experienced it from a cinematic point of view…no crowds, no soul-sucking summertime heat, no Marcello… Although a little disillusioned, I did have to stop and remind myself that we were visiting the Amalfi Coast during one of the most busy times of the year. Getting a taste of it made me realize what it could be at another time.

So, yes, it was not goodbye…it was definitely until I see Positano again!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

City Sightseeing Italy Coast to Coast Bus

  • https://www.city-sightseeing.it/en/amalfi-coast/
  • Pickup point Sorrento, Piazza di Curtis, behind the Circumvesuviana train station. Drop off in Positano is Spoda bus stop.
  • Fare: The 1st “Coast to Coast” line ticket is priced at €10.00 per person, one way. Return ticket can be purchased for €6.00 by showing the €10.00 ticket purchased on the same day. If you need to other trips on the same day the cost will always be €6.00.

Church of Santa Maria Assunta

Torre Trasita

The Grand Finale

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Naxos was such an unexpected pleasure.

When we had made the decision to visit a couple of the Greek islands, Naxos was definitely not on my radar. If it had not been for the suggestion of a friend, I am not even sure that we would have chosen it over the many others that dot the Aegean Sea.

That being said, we had done and seen most of what we had set out to and enjoyed every bit of it, however, I still felt as though there was more to be discovered.

After our trip to the islet of Palatia to see Apollo’s Temple, my husband and son decided to head to the hotel for a nap before our ferry’s departure that afternoon. Camera in hand, I headed back into the alleys and pathways to see what more I could find in Naxos’ Old Town.

Now when I think back to our time in Naxos, I fondly remember the beautiful mountains and beaches, but what stands out in my mind is the intricacies of the Old Town. I absolutely adored just wandering the narrow passageways and picturesque harbor, discovering a photo around every corner.

As I headed past the port to make my way back up the hill, I noticed a modest, white-washed church standing alone on a small island. Panagia Myrtidiotissa is a small chapel built by the fishermen of Tsirigo and Kythira who survived a storm outside of Naxos and is only accessible by boat. As I sat on a bench, wishing I could make my way there, I watched a fisherman work on his vessel, all the while under the protecting eye of this historic church. If you happen to be in Naxos on September 24, make sure to not miss the celebratory feast honoring the church and the mariners of the island.

Knowing that we had missed the Catholic Church’s opening times the day before, I headed up the hill, in that direction, and discovered that I was still a bit early.

Around the corner, however, I noticed a sign directing me to the Casazza Chapel or the Chapel of the Duke of Naxos (also known as the Chapel of Sanoudos). Only having to wait a few minutes for its opening, I entered a beautifully decorated structure. Since I wasn’t sure of the history of the chapel, it was fortunate that the woman who unlocked the doors for us was an American and we could speak freely. She explained that the chapel was built in the 13th or 14th century by Duke Markos Sanoudos and continued to operate as the chapel of all Dukes of Naxos. Completed in 1680, the chapel was dedicated to the Immaculate Conception of the Virgin and later operated as the church of the Jesuits upon their arrival.

Leaving the Chapel of the Duke of Naxos, I passed near a doorway where an older gentleman was sitting. He beckoned to me and invited me in. Not sure what I was being invited to see (and a little nervous), I entered and found a small Orthodox chapel. It was colorful and well appointed even though occupying such a tiny space. Though I never learned what this chapel was, as he did not speak English, I could tell that he was proud of it and as I watched, he continued to invited all passersby to step in and admire the chapel.

Finally, making my way back to the cathedral in the central square, I found it open and entered eagerly. Though the church is relatively small, it is the most important temple of the castle in Naxos.

Exhibiting Byzantine and Western influences, the cathedral was built in the 13th century. There are some small chapels within the five-aisled, three domed structure and the floor is constructed of marble embossed with the coat of arms of the Duke of Naxos. The central aisle boasts an wood altar crafted by Tagiadoroi from Chios from 1774 and a painting of the Panagia Eleousa (Our Lady the Merciful) dating from the 11th or 12th century.

As you examine the outside of the cathedral, make sure to take note of the four coats of arms, including those of Markos Sanoudos, and the striking bell tower constructed in 1963 by John Filippoti.

Other notable religious buildings in the area include the building of the Catholic Archdiocese (13th century) which houses a collection of architectural parts, relics, folklore material, engravings, icons and ecclesiastical utensils, the old Jesuit Commercial School and the old Ursaline Academy for Girls.

Continuing my adventure through the maze of walkways and paths of the Old Town, I meandered slowly examining stairways, door knockers, signs, souvenirs, artwork, cafes, archways and even found an art gallery showcasing the work of my old friend, Yanni Souvatzoglou, an Athens sculpture artist.

As time dissolved quickly, I knew that I would have to return to the hotel so that we could catch our ferry back to Athens, however, there was just enough time to see one last thing…the Orthodox Cathedral.

The Orthodox Cathedral of Naxos was constructed in 1787 on the site of a smaller church and is dedicated to Zoodochos Pigi, the life-giving Virgin Mary. The cathedral was constructed using materials from other buildings including some ancient temples and it is said that the solid granite pillars were brought from the ruins of Delos.

As I entered the cathedral, I breathed in deeply, taking in the extravagance before me. The excitement of capturing it all was short-lived as I was told that photography was not allowed.

A few, well-placed shots were definitely going to be taken and I made my way around the church admiring the intricate wall paintings and the beautiful icons dating back to Turkish times as well as the Gospel Book, which according to custom, was a present from Catherine the Great of Russia.

Finally, it was time for our time in Naxos to come to an end. As we walked through the town toward the ferry terminal, I took one last look around at the city, the boats in the harbor and the fresh catch of the day drying in the sun.

We would definitely miss this Greek Island that we had grown to love during our short stay. Coming here was definitely unexpected but after seeking out many of the things that make it so special, we were extremely happy that we had taken the chance.

Unexpected and now not unexplored, by us anyway!

The grand finale just whetted our appetite for more…we will be back!

Check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram @snappingtheglobe for more pictures.

Panagia Myrtidiotissa

  • Address: Naxos Port, Naxos Town 843 00, Greece
  • Hours: unknown
  • Admission: free

Chapel of the Duke of Naxos (also known as the Chapel of Sanoudos or Casazza Chapel )

Catholic Cathedral of Naxos

Orthodox Cathedral of Naxos

Yanni Souvatzoglou

So Much Santorini…So Little Time

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

It was our last day in Santorini.

How do you squeeze in a gazillion things into only so many daylight hours?

We had some ideas of places we wanted to visit…the Ancient Site of Thera for sure…maybe the beaches in Perissa or Kamari.

As we drove toward the town of Perissa, we stared in wonder at the large groups of tourists who stood, patiently waiting for the local bus. Where were they all going? Probably other beaches, judging from their tropical attire.

We were heading to where they were heading away from…the village of Perissa.

Perissa, located on the southeastern edge of Santorini, is a coastal village where the ancient city of Elefsina was believed to have been located. At the base of Mesa Vouno mountain, the small village is known for its beautiful blue waters, black lava sand and wide array of restaurants and accommodations.

As we drove into the village, the first thing I noticed was the Tlimios Stavros with its blue dome and impressive bell tower. Once we had found a place to park, we walked over to the church to take a look. Most of the churches we had visited had been open, however, we found this one locked and we were forced to admire is architectural beautify from outside. The village was quite charming, filled with lots of souvenirs and we made a mental note to return in the evening to enjoy one of the many restaurants that lined the beach area.

As I gazed up at Mesa Vouno, movement caught my eye. People were walking up a steep path towards the summit! I knew the site of Ancient Thera was located on the mountain, but I had not realized that you could climb from Perissa. High on the mountainous slopes, I also spotted the white-washed chapel of Panagia Katefiani. Could I make it all the way?

After talking with a local in one of the shops, I learned that we could drive back to Pyrgos and then head toward Kamari. There, we would find the road that leads to Ancient Thera, complete with parking and we would not have to climb the entire way up the mountain. Pressed for time, this would be our option.

A short while later, we were making the harrowing drive from Kamari to Ancient Thera…2.3 kilometers with 22 hairpin switchbacks. Taking our cue from other drivers, we proceeded carefully and stopped at each switchback to blow the horn at descending traffic. A little worse for the wear, we finally arrived at our destination.

After purchasing our tickets, we began our climb to the summit of Ancient Thera, the 11th century BC Dorian settlement that exhibits remains from Hellenistic, Roman and Byzantine periods as well as amazing views of Kamari on one side and Perissa, Perivolos, Fira and Oia from the other. And on clear days, you can also see some of the neighboring islands!

The existence of Ancient Thera is one of the most important pieces of Santorini’s history. After excavations began in 1986, it was revealed that a settlement stretching from northwest to southwest, was split by a central street with many side streets branching off of each side.

As we walked through the immense site, we encountered many excavated ruins including the Agora (the main square of the city) the Basilike Stoa (the center of public life), the theater (which contained seating for 1,500 people), the sacred area (with an enclosed grotto dedicated to Hermes and Heracles) and a gymnasium with Roman baths.

A cul-de-sac, at the highest point of the city, had an impressive building which was the headquarters of the fleet commander and a courtyard next door which was thought to be the gymnasium of the garrison. There were also the remains of dwelling which belonged to officers of the fleet.

Higher up on the mountain plateau was where the city’s inhabitants lived in houses centralized around a small courtyard where a cistern was located. Some houses had two levels and others also had basements.

There are many remains of artwork exhibited throughout the site including mosaics and carvings that can still be spied throughout and although the entire city is captivating, what transfixed our attention was the views. Staring out at the neighboring islands and the city’s of Kamari and Perissa below reminded us that we needed to continue our exploration of the island.

Making our way back the way we had come, I looked longingly at the footpath heading down to Perissa. A gentleman leading horses down the trail reminded me that because we had not made the climb from Perissa, caused me to miss the small chapel I had spied from the village. There was so much more that we had missed on the island, it would have to wait until a future visit!

The drive down the mountain was just as unnerving as on the way up, but finally we arrived in Kamari. Though we had planned to spend the afternoon on Kamari or Perissa’s beaches, we decided that although we had driven through Fira on a couple of occasions, we had never had the opportunity to explore the capital of Santorini.

After securing a parking spot, we headed into the narrow, crowded streets and alleys, passing through Theotokopoulos Square, which overflows with cafes and thousands of visitors, Gold Street and its countless jewelry stores and the commercial center of Fabrika.

We finally arrived at the Orthodox Metropolitan Cathedral, one of the most photographed churches on the island, due to its primary location in the city. Built in 1827, the large church offers amazing views of the caldera and nearby islands. Destroyed in the great earthquake of 1956, it was rebuilt with elaborate arches, a stunning bell tower, beautiful frescoes, a mosaic flooring, amazing central chandelier and offers religious paintings created by Santorinian painter Christoforos Asimis.

Finally, we headed to the teleferico. I had once seen a video on arriving visitors to the island taking the donkeys up the steep, winding path. I must admit, when we arrived two days before, this is what I had anticipated and was quite disappointed that there were no donkeys…only the rental car representative.

My husband, son and I paid for our cable car transport to the bottom of the steep cliffs to the old port below. A very picturesque setting, we walked along the harbor, watching passengers arrive and depart from waiting cruise ships and tours. There were quaint boats moored in the slip and many shops and restaurants as well as the old market.

As we prepared to take the cable car back to the top, I decided that even though my husband and son had no interest in riding the donkey to the top, I needed to do it!

Taking my place in the queue, I paid the attendant, climbed on and off I went up the steep pathway. It was fun to travel the traditional way that goods and people once did to Fira, although sometimes my donkey had a mind of its own. Or…maybe it was just giving me time to enjoy the views! Still, it was much more fun than climbing up 587 steps to the top!

Our final stop of the day was to one of the many bars that look out over the caldera. Here, we enjoyed one of the most spectacular views that I have ever seen!

Although we only saw about a quarter of what this amazing island had to offer, I was suddenly caught up in the moment.

What was right there before my eyes was what Santorini is all about!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Ancient Thera

  • http://odysseus.culture.gr/h/3/eh355.jsp?obj_id=2454
  • Address: Ancient Thera Road, Kamari 17892, Greece
  • Hours: November 1 until March 31, 0800-1500, Closed Mondays. April 1 until October 31, 0830-1600, Closed Tuesday.
  • Admission: Full, €4, Reduced, €2. Special ticket package, Full: €14, Reduced: €7. The special package 4 day ticket is for Archaelogical Sites and Museum in Thera including Ancient Thera, Akrotiri, Archaeological Museum, Museum of Prehistoric Thera, Collection of Icons and Ecclesiastical Artifacts at Pyrgos. Free admission on March 6, April 18, May 18, last weekend of September, National Holidays, October 28, every first Sunday from November 1 to March 31.

Orthodox Metropolitan Cathedral

  • Address:  Ipapantis, Thira 847 00, Greece
  • Hours: unknown
  • Admission: free
  • Modest dress required

Santorini Cable Car

  • http://www.scc.gr/
  • Address: Thera 847 00, Greece
  • Hours: April 1-April 30, 0700-2100, every 20 minutes. May 1-May 30 and September 1-October 31, 0700-2200, every 20 minutes. June 1-August 31, 0700-2300, every 20 minutes. November 1-November 30 and March 1-March 31, 0730-1030 and 1430-1800, every 30 minutes. December 1-February 28, 0700-0900 and 1500-1600, every 30 minutes.
  • Admission: Adults, one-way, 6€, Children, 3€, Luggage, 3€.

Santorini Donkeys

Old Santorini Port

First Cemetery of Athens

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Athens is a place where historical landmarks are a dime a dozen.

The Acropolis, Temple of Zeus, Hadrian’s Arch (to name a few)…you can take you pick of so many to fill your time while visiting the ancient city.

Since I’ve been to most of these places, I was on the lookout for something different. Thinking back on my visit to the Keremeikos Ancient Cemetery, I realized that there had to be more modern cemeteries within the city, much like those of Paris (Pere Lachaise), Milan (Monumentale) and Buenos Aires (La Recoleta).

After conducting a bit of research, I discovered that the official cemetery of the City of Athens dates back to 1837. A prestigious burial place sought out by both Greeks and foreigners, it was the first to be built within the city’s limits and located not far from the Panathenaic Stadium.

Setting out in the warm, sunny afternoon, I made the journey quickly and soon found myself at the top end of Anapafseos Street.

Admittedly, the entrance to the cemetery was a bit disappointing as it is scaffolded, presently under construction. One inside, however, I was greeted immediately on my left with one of the cemetery’s three churches, the Church of Saint Theodores (the other two being Saint Lazarus and Saint Charles). Though the church was not open, I enjoyed its blue painted architecture and single slim belltower standing tall in the bright afternoon.

Making my way through the more elaborate tombs located in the forefront of the cemetery, I admired those of Heinrich Schliemann, German businessman and archaeological excavator of the cities of Troy, Mycenae and Tiryns, Ioannis Pesmazoglou, Greek banker, economist and politician and Georgios Averoff, businessman, philanthropist and one of the great national benefactors of Greece. 

Tomb of Heinrich Schliemann
Tomb of Ioannis Pesmazoglou
Tomb of Georgios Averoff

Making the steep walk towards the rear of the cemetery, I was in search of something special…the tomb with the famous sculpture of a dead young girl called I Koimomeni (“The Sleeping Girl”), created by Yannoulis Chalepas. A bit of exploration was in order, as there are others that appeared to be very similar. I soon found the serene sculpture immortalized by sculptor Chalepas and wondered about her fate. It was later that I learned that the sleeping girl, Sophia Afentaki, was born in 1855 and died of tuberculosis at the age of 18 years.

“The Sleeping Girl”

Continuing my exploration, I was saddened by the overgrown condition of many parts of the cemetery and took extra time to pay respects to many of the graves in the area. Many of the graves and tombs were obviously quite expensive and many housed the remains of many members of Greek families and on the opposite end of the spectrum, there were also many grave sites that were quite modest.

Winding my way deeper and deeper into the cemeteries bounds, I discovered unique sculpture, touching mementos, fresh and dying flowers, distinctly crafted lanterns and fading photos. What I didn’t encounter, however, were other visitors. The cemetery was perfectly empty and quiet.

After a while, the peace and quiet became quite disconcerting. Realizing that I was probably a bit vulnerable, alone in a cemetery, even in the daylight, I decided to head back to the front of the graveyard, passing the burial areas reserved for Protestants and Jews.

The Cemetery of Athens was a unique experience, one that most tourists do not search out despite it’s historical and cultural significance. Though I did see a couple of other tourists in the beginning of my visit seeking out some of the famous grave sites, there were not many others that I ran across.

If it is historical or architectural significance that you seek or a desire to search out some of the famous grave sites, take a trip to the First Cemetery of Athens, a peaceful haven that will not disappoint.

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

First Cemetery of Athens

  • Address: Logginou 3, Athina 116 36, Greece
  • Hours: 0800-2000, daily
  • Admission: free

Notable Burials within the First Cemetery of Athens:

  • Archbishops Christodoulos, Chrysostomos II, Seraphim and Dorotheus
  • Hero of Greek War of Independence, Odysseas Androutsos
  • Singers, Sotiria Bellou, Stratos Dionysiou, Stelios Kazantzidis, Dimitros Mitropanos, Demis Roussos, Rita Sakellariou, Sofia Vembo, Nikos Xilouris (and composer)
  • Poets, Odysseas Elytis, Nikos Kavvadias, Kostis Palamas, Kostis Palamas, Alexandros Rizos Rangavis, Giorgos Seferis, Angelos Sikelianos, Alexandros Panagoulis (and politician, democracy activist)
  • Actors, Jules Dassin, Dimitris Horn, Manos Katrakis, Vassillis Logothetidis, Orestis Makris, Thanasis Veggos, Jules Dassin ( and director), Dimitris Papamichael (and director)
  • Actresses, Tzeni Karezi, Marika Kotopouli, Ellie Lambeti, Zoe Laskari, Katina Paxinou, Aliki Vougiouklaki
  • Prime Ministers, Georgios Kafantaris, Andreas Papandreou, George Papandreou, Charilaos Trikoupis, Xenophon Zolotas
  • Politicians, Theodoros Kolokotronis, Alexandros Mavrokordatos, Melina Mercouri, Andreas Michalakopoulos, Grigoris Lambrakis, Nikolaos Bourandas (Police and Fire Service General), Yannis Makriyannis (and merchant, military officer author), Nikos Zachariadis (General Secretary of the Communist Party of Greece from 1931 to 1956)
  • Sculptor, Yannoulis Chalepas
  • Philanthropist and businessman, George Averoff
  • Painter, Demetrios Farmakopoulos
  • Archaeologist, Adolf Furtwangler
  • Filmmaker, Humphrey Jennings
  • Statesman, Dimitrios Kallergis
  • Conductor, Pianist and Composer, Dimitri Mitropoulos,
  • University of Athens’ Greatest Benefactor, Antonios Papadakis
  • Military Dictator during the Regime of the Colonels, Georgios Papadopoulos
  • Lawyer, Alexandros Papanastasiou
  • Director, Screenwriter and Lyricist,Alekos Sakellarios
  • Feminist, Kalliroi Parren
  • Amateur Archaeologist who excavated the site of Troy, Heinrich Schliemann
  • Great Benefactor of Greece, Michael Tositsas
  • Composer, Vassilis Tsitsanis
  • Founder of Filiki Eteria, Emmanuil Xanthos
  • Member of Filiki Eteria, Ioannis Varvakis
  • Author, T.H. White
  • Architect, Ernst Ziller

Carolina Chapel

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

There are many historic sites in the Outer Banks of North Carolina. Those located in Corolla give visitors a chance to incorporate a bit of antiquity with the sun-filled vacation.

As I was driving near the Currituck Lighthouse a couple of years ago, I spied the Corolla Chapel. A quaint little church, tucked behind the lighthouse, on the north end of the village, it sparked my interest. On that day, however, I had a carload full of teenaged boys who had already agreed to an interruption of their beach time for a visit to the lighthouse…I knew I would be pushing my luck to require them to prolong their absence from the sun and sand.

This time, there was only me.

I had just come from one of the horse-spotting tours and remembered this historic church. With time on my hands, I decided to investigate.

The Corolla Chapel is an interdenominational Christian fellowship that dates back to 1885. The original sanctuary was situated across the road from its current location and moved and expanded in 2002 to accommodate the expanding number of attendees.

The chapel still retains its original interior walls and contains many of its original items including its pews, pump organ, pulpit and pulpit chair.

As I walked around the small space, I marveled at the stained glass windows and the cross-shaped plan of the building. Though it was a weekday, I envisioned that the best way to really understand this small church was to attend one of the services that are held throughout the year and on special occasions.

Maybe I will have to come back again.

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Corolla Chapel

  • https://corollachapel.com/
  • Address: 1136 Corolla Village Rd, Corolla, NC 27927
  • Hours: Sunday services, 1000. Additional service at 0800 from June 11 until September 4.
  • Admission: free