Tag: United States

A Place of Surrender

©2021 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

If your interests lie in American history, then Virginia is the place to be.

With scores of battlefields, historical homes and buildings you can fill many days on your vacation or if you live there, like me, take field trips to occupy your unscheduled days.

On a beautiful fall afternoon, I found myself quite restless. I was tired of cleaning up after the dog, tired of watching Netflix and being off of work at that moment, definitely needing something different. Jumping in my car I headed east, knowing that there are many parks and places to visit along the way, I figured that I would just drive until inspiration hit.

Spotting the signs for Yorktown, I decided that since it was such a lovely day to be outside, checking out the battlefield would be perfect.

My arrival at the Visitor’s Center found it to be closed due to Covid restrictions, however, a park ranger was available outside to answer questions and assist with maps and ideas on how to tackle the immense battlefield area. Under normal circumstances, the Visitor Center is the perfect place to start your explorations with an orientation film, entitled “The Siege at Yorktown” and examine museum exhibits, which include the field tents used by General George Washington during battle and the campaign table used by British General Cornwallis. However, because the Visitor Center was closed, no fees were collected for my visit, a bonus!

Visitor’s Center

As I listened to the downloaded app on my phone, I learned that Yorktown was important in our nation’s history as this was the battle where American independence was won. On October 19, 1781, American and French armies led by General George Washington saw the surrender of the British forces under Lord Charles Cornwallis.

Although the British had chosen Yorktown for its deep water harbor and had fortified Yorktown, they were unprepared for the large army that arrived. George Washington had left New York with approximately 7,000 American and French troops and picked up nearly 8,000 more along the way. French Admiral Francois Joseph Paul de Grasse landed with a fleet of warships and an additional 3,000 troops, blockading the mouth of the York River. With no supplies and no reinforcements, Cornwallis found himself in peril and bound for a battle in which he was not ready.

The six-stop tour of Yorktown Battlefield was easy to navigate and led me to the most important spots on the battlefield, each marked with signs directing me from one stop to the next. Signs with red arrows were easy to follow for the Yorktown Battlefield tour and the yellow arrows for the Allied Encampment tour.

Beginning at Stop A, the British Inner Defense Line, I noted the preserved earthworks built by the British soldiers as defensive walls and many cannons, which are pointed in the direction where the American and French forces were positioned. In this area, are the remains of a small British fort (the Hornwork) and in the nearby field, the home of Thomas Nelson, a former Secretary of State for the Colony of Virginia. This home was used as Cornwallis’ headquarters until it was destroyed during the fighting.

Going out of order, my next stop (C) was the Second Allied Siege Line which ran all the way to the York River in the east. Parking in the adjacent lot, I took a walk along the pathways which bordered the earthworks and again, spied many cannons.

At Stop B, the Grand French Battery, I learned that the earthworks here are reconstructions. When the originals were leveled and had eroded, the National Park Service built the current fortifications in the exact location of the originals. There is a Howitzer and a mortar near the parking area and a footbridge and another information panel which describes the various artillery pieces.

Rather than return to the main road near the Visitor Center and Stops D and E, I decided to continue along Surrender Road toward the encampments. The six-stop tour of the Allied Encampment area gives visitors an overview of the areas that the American and French troops used for spending time, sleeping, drilling and storing artillery and other equipment. A beautiful drive through the woods, there wasn’t much to see besides the natural beauty of the area including wetlands and large open fields; a vivid imagination is required. Occasional signs enlighten visitors as to the locations of the French Hospital, the Headquarters Site of the Quartermaster General, the Headquarters Site of Henry Knox, Beaver Dam Creek, Washington’s Headquarters and the French Encampment. I discovered the Essex Lodge Cemetery and the French Cemetery, marked by a simple cross in memory of about fifty unidentified French soldiers killed during the Siege of Yorktown. There were a few cannons, both American and French, along the way, many in the French Artillery Park.

Heading back towards the York River, I made my way to Stop D, Redoubts 9 and 10. The earthworks that made up the British inner defenses was anchored by earthen forts as its outer defenses. These redoubts, located on the banks of the river, were stormed by the French and American forces on the night of October 14, 1781 and captured within thirty minutes. The devastation to the British position was so great that the next day, Cornwallis called for a cease fire and surrender talks began. Both forts have been reconstructed by the National Park Service and artillery representing the large American battery are on display along the siege line which runs behind the redoubt.

On the way to Stop E, I encountered the Wormley Pond Dam, built by Augustine Moore to power his grist mill. American troops marched over the dam regularly as they moved to and from the Siege line. The Moore House, the next stop on the tour, was not open to visitors but its grounds were available for inspection. This was the location where after Cornwallis asked for a cease fire and the talks for surrender terms were negotiated on October 18, 1781. Washington and Cornwallis were not present, however, each sent two representatives; for the British, Lieutenant Colonel Thomas Dundas and Major Alexander Ross and for the American-French alliance, Lieutenant Colonel John Laurens and Colonel Viscount de Noailles. An agreement was reached that night.

The Moore House was almost destroyed during the Civil War and has been renovated many times by the National Park Service. Although very little of the house remains from 1781, it was restored to its 1781 appearance based on drawings and descriptions from the time. The house is furnished with reproductions and antiques from the time period and it is not known which room was used to sign the surrender documents, although it is believed to have been the parlor. During normal operations, the house is open during various times from April through October and often rangers are present at the house to answer questions.

Finally, I made my way to the last stop on the tour, Stop F, Surrender Field, the location where 7,000 British soldiers abdicated to the American and French armies on October 19, 1781.

During a time when surrendering with dignity was so important, it was a great insult to Cornwallis that the Americans would not let him do so. Consider it payback that when the British had captured Charleston, the Americans were not allowed to surrender with honor. Negotiations lasted day and night at the Moore House, however, the British had to finally agree or continue to endure the battering from the French and American artillery. Claiming illness, Cornwallis did not attend the surrender.

From the parking area, you can follow a paved path which leads to an observation deck that looks out over the still intact field and an audio presentation can be accessed by the push of a button. Leaving the observation deck, follow the walkway and check out the display of surrendered artillery pieces which were engraved to mark the historic occasion. 12,000 muskets and 244 artillery pieces were relinquished by the British and 250 artillery pieces were engraved and given to various dignitaries.

The two historic trails are a wonderful way to spend an afternoon, learning about one of the most important events in our nation’s history. Not only can you see the locations of some of the fiercest battles, but you can spend the day in nature possibly spotting bald eagles, osprey, woodland birds, deer, groundhogs and squirrels. After a day on the battlefield, head over to the town of Yorktown and discover more of the area’s history.

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Yorktown Battlefield National Park

  • https://www.nps.gov/york/index.htm
  • Address: 1000 Colonial Parkway, Yorktown, Virginia 23690
  • Hours: Park grounds and tour roads, open from sunrise to sunset. Yorktown Battlefield Visitor Center is open for access to the Eastern National bookstore, open Tuesday-Sunday, 1000-1600. The theater and exhibit areas are currently closed. The Moore House, The Nelson House, The Cemetery Lodge and the Poor Potter are closed but grounds open for visitation.
  • Admission: Adults aged 15 and over, $15.00. Admission is valid for 7 days and provides access to the following resources managed by Colonial National Historical Park: Yorktown Battlefield Visitor Center Museum and Battlefield Tour Roads, Jamestown Visitor Center, Glasshouse and Island Drive Tour Road.
  • Getting There: From eastbound I-64, take exit 242B for Yorktown, to the Colonial Parkway. Follow the parkway to its end. From westbound I-64, take exit 250B for Route 105 East (Fort Eustis Boulevard east) to Route 17 (George Washington Memorial Highway). Turn left (North) onto Route 17. Follow the signs to the Yorktown Battlefield.

Come Fly With Me

©2021 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

My life in the past year has not been the same, much like everyone else.

Looking forward to being able to continue my aviation career, the need to be vaccinated, so as to travel to other countries in the future, was paramount in getting back to normal. So when I was able to secure a vaccination appointment in my state of employment, I decided to move heaven and earth to ensure that I did not miss that coveted time slot.

Leaving early the morning before my appointment, I headed to New York. Deciding to stay in the vicinity of the city’s John F. Kennedy International airport, near where my appointment was located, I perused local hotels with availability for the night. Looking to get points in my favored hotel’s loyalty program was soon overshadowed by the prospect of staying at another.

The TWA Hotel.

Trans World Airlines operated from 1930 until 2001, under the operation of the American business magnate, Howard Hughes, from 1939 until the 1960’s. Formed as Transcontinental & Western Air, it operated routes from New York to Los Angeles with various stops along the way and was one of four big domestic airlines in the United States. After World War II, the airline’s routes expanded to Europe, the Middle East and Asia and competed with the famed Pan American Airways.

Though TWA was headquartered at one time in Kansas City, Missouri, it’s main transatlantic hub was located at JFK International Airport in New York City. It was here that the iconic building, designed by Eero Saarinen, that housed its flight operations was located. Sadly, however, TWA ceased operations in 2003.

The head house as the flight operations center building was known, had stopped functioning in 2002. Over the next few years, the building was protected from demolition, designated a landmark, added to the National Register of Historic Placesand and the Port Authority of New York and New Jersey sought ways to redevelop and reuse the superstructure.

Eventually, the building was incorporated into Jetblue’s Terminal 5 and talks were in the works to develop the hotel into a hotel, the first and only operating within JFK’s boundaries.

Opened on May 15, 2019, to much fanfare, the hotel consists of the two buildings, containing 512 rooms, which flank the head house. In addition to the hotel rooms, the hotel boasts a conference space, six restaurants, eight bars, a rooftop infinity pool and an aviation museum.

After arriving in Terminal 4, I made my way, via the Skytrain to Terminal 4. Following the directions that were sent by the hotel, I eventually found my way into the building.

Amazing!

As I passed the TWA travel posters, by artist David Klein (circa 1955-1965), which captured the look of cities that TWA served during the Jet Age of travel, I couldn’t wait to get to my room to see what awaited me.

The counters at the check-in area are the original counters used for check-in during the airline’s heyday and if you take a peek around them, you can find the original baggage belts still present. While the agents on duty fielded phone calls, I was able to use the self-service kiosk to check-in and activate my own key.

Finally, headed up the space-age tubes, which were featured in the movie, Catch me If You Can, I made my way to my room, #518.

Though my first thought was that it was a bit utilitarian, I soon came to appreciate the small details that made it special…brass lighting, authentic retro Knoll furnishings, another piece of Klein’s artwork, and an old, still operational, rotary phone. The glassware, soap, shampoo, wireless phone charger and even the Do Not Disturb Sign were all emblazoned with the TWA logo. Even the wall light switch near the door was designed to look like a cockpit switch.

After a bit of a rest, I headed out to see what else was housed under the historic hotel’s roof. In my tower, I found a perfect replica of Howard Hughes’ office and in the other, a replica of Eero Saarinen’s office, complete with drafting desk, blueprints and drawings from the architect’s hand. Also on display was an architect’s model of the head house. In the same tower, I also discovered an authentic recreation of a 1962 living room which included an original Barbie Dreamhouse and furnishings people of my age might remember from grandma’s house…crocheted pillow and yellow shag rug anyone?

Taking the elevator to the top of the tower, it suddenly dawned on me that I had forgotten my swimsuit. Oh well, as tempting as the 95 degree waters of the heated rooftop infinity pool was, the shock of the cold upon exiting that same pool was a bit deterring in the 40 degree weather. Instead, I walked around the observation deck, hands thrust deep in my pockets, scarf nestled around my neck, getting a good look at JetBlue’s terminal and unobstructed views of Runway 4 Left/22 Right and Jamaica Bay. Although I have spent a great deal of my career taxiing around this airport, this was definitely a view I didn’t normally get to see.

Heading back down the elevator, I entered the main part of the hall. I perused the gift shop and then discovered one of my favorite things of the afternoon…the free photo booth. Since there wasn’t anyone lining up behind me to have their images captured, I spent quite a bit of time, trying to get some good photos of myself with the TWA logo in the background. Best part of the whole thing…the pictures were immediately emailed to my account, so I was able to send to my husband and show him what I was up to!

Continuing my exploration on the main floor, I discovered the original custom ceramic floor tiles, red carpeting and red furniture originally in the TWA lounges. The large split-flap display departure board, fully restored, is in the main lobby with departure cities and times, though I didn’t do enough investigation to see if they were accurate. Along the front of the building, there were many original items on display including TWA logoed cars, Coca-Cola machines, below-wing employee uniforms, suitcases and even one of TWA’s tugs and luggage carts.

A quick walk outside the front of the building gave a great overview of the beautiful architecture of the building in the waning light of the late afternoon.

Back in the building, I made my way upstairs, viewing the original clock and old payphones, which act as the hotel’s house phones (Dial 5 for a special message from TWA!). At the top level, I found something near and dear to my heart…flight attendant uniforms!

These flight attendant uniforms (or hostess uniforms as they were once called) date back to 1944 with designs by Howard Greer and display unique TWA logo cutouts around the lapel. From 1955 to 1960, uniforms were designed by the famed designer, Oleg Cassini, known for dressing former First Lady Jacqueline Kennedy. You can definitely see the change in direction to a more polished look that these uniforms took. There are also uniforms that were worn from 1960-1965, by Don Loper, who also designed Pan Am’s 1959 uniform, Pierre Balmain, from 1965-1968, Dalton of America, from 1968-1971 and Valentino, from 1971-1975. Though the Valentino designs were the most conservative, indicative of the time (think leisure suit), I particularly enjoyed the colorful ones. There were also examples of two of the TWA pilot’s uniforms…not much has changed over the last 60 years!

Looking down at the hotel’s Sunken Lounge, I vowed to sit for a while and enjoy the view, however, before the sun headed toward its final minutes, I wanted to see up close, the view that can be had from that lounge area. Finding the doors leading to the outside, I made my way across the former tarmac, past a tug and luggage cart to one of the curated items that make this hotel so special.

Connie.

The 60-year old Lockheed L-1649 Starliner, the last model of the Lockheed Constellation line of airliners that broke the transcontinental speed record in 1946, is parked just outside, between the head house and the hotel. I wandered around the aircraft landing gear, admiring the propellers and jetway stairs and unique manhole covers. It was disappointing to find that during this chilly time of year, however, that the plane was closed to visitors. One of the things I wanted to do most was enjoy a drink inside Connie, which has been converted to a cocktail lounge, complete with original 1958 airplane chairs and a cockpit which airs JFK’s live air traffic control feed.

Finally, I made my way back into the hotel, heading to the front to purchase a couple of beers. I selected a seat in the Sunken Lounge and watched the split-flap display departure board which instead of displaying flights and times, displays pictures and messages, such as FLY TWA and I LOVE NY. As the display board began its flipping motions front the top, it was fascinating to wonder what it would eventually display. As I finally headed back to my room, I passed the Reading Room and the Twister Room and boy at that moment, I wished that I had someone to play with!

My window-facing bed, with a view of Jetblue’s Terminal 5, was extremely comfortable and extremely private when I lowered the room darkening shades. Although I would have loved one of the Historic TWA or Runway Views, those were not in my budget for this trip and I strangely enjoyed watching the police call tow trucks to haul away those illegally parked! With this view, who needs a television?

Strange thing was…I never once heard a plane take off or land and had a terrific night’s sleep, thanks to the thoughtful soundproofing. Unusual for an airport hotel!

My trip to New York wasn’t one that I originally had looked forward to, yet this magnificent hotel, made it special. Yes, I am a flight attendant and a bit of an aviation nerd, but I think that anyone who appreciates history, will enjoy every bit of this thoughtfully designed hotel.

If you are at JFK for any length of time between flights, head on over and take a look at the hotel’s lobby, which is open to the public or have a drink in Connie during the warmer months. If you have to remain in the JFK overnight, most definitely book a stay at this historic lodging.

GO FLY WITH TWA!

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TWA Hotel

  • https://www.twahotel.com/
  • Address: One Idlewild Drive, JFK International Airport, Queens, New York 11430
  • Hours: 24 hours, daily
  • Admission: Free for museum exhibits. Nightly rates vary.

Castle Rock

©2021 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Across the James River, less than half a mile from the Belmead mansion, lies St. Francis de Sales.

Sad, neglected and slowly succumbing to the passage of time.

Built by enslaved people in the 1800s, the Belmead plantation was eventually converted to both a school for boys, St. Emma Military Academy, housed in the Belmead mansion and St. Francis de Sales School for Girls which offered educations for Native and African American students. These schools were established by Mother Katherine Drexel, a former heiress and socialite who devoted her life to the church and later went on to become one of only two American Roman Catholic saints. The girl’s school was named for Drexel’s father, Francis, and often referred to as Castle Rock…a castle to the girls that resided there and a foundation (rock) for their futures.

Both schools were closed in 1970 and since this time, the buildings have fallen into disrepair.

Visiting with a tour organized by local photographer John Plaschal, I had already done a full exploration of the Belmead mansion and its surrounding property. I headed to St. Francis de Sales, having to take the long way around with the James River bridge outage. Parking in the lot adjacent to the former school, I made my way through the opening in the gate, heading to the front of the building. The back was a bit lackluster, but it was the Gothic facade was what I wanted most to see.

Part of the front of the building had collapsed in the past few years and this made for some interesting photography, but the part I was most excited about was the church. With its arched doorway, capped with a splendid stained glass window and statue of its namesake, St. Francis de Sales, it was breathtaking. Creeping vines covered the façade, some still in bloom, and an occasional window was shattered, allowing the outside to venture in.

Waiting my turn, I finally entered the doorway. The narthex was enclosed by a low barrier and I had to be content to view the entire church from this viewpoint. It was obvious that mass had not been celebrated here in some time. There were two pews in front of the altar which appeared to be waiting for the worshipers of the past. The vaulted ceiling rose above and it looked as if great portions of it had fallen, leaving only the beams visible. What I loved most, however, were the colorful stained glass windows, visible on the left side of the church.

An agreement had been made with the current owner to allow visitors to venture no further than this point, due to the current state of the property. It was sad, as I would have liked to inspect each part of the church more intimately and especially to look back towards the choir to see the light filtering through the stained glass window above the doorway.

Walking completely around the building, I paid attention to the numerous architectural details while making my way toward the former art studio. The doorway was open and I spied blank chalkboards, empty shelves and tables and chairs covered in the crumbling debris from the aged ceiling.

The back of the building was in especially atrocious shape with the right side collapsing from the main structure. I was able to make my way closer, however, to see the balconied areas and vine-covered entrance. The rusty fire escapes still clung to the back of the building and I could only imagine the occasional student’s attempts to venture out using these dilapidated steps when curfew was upon them.

Following the path behind the school, I inspected the tall chimney and an abandoned building. An old gas pump stood neglected in the weeds nearby and I wondered if equipment used at the school was stored there at one time.

Continuing on the path through the woods, I admired the changing leaves and tall trees that lined the path. Eventually, I encountered a low wall, a landmark that I had been instructed to look for. Just beyond, I found the small, humpback bridge that crossed the small creek. I photographed every angle, even stepping down into the creek bed to see it from below, while the water coursed past my feet.

My journey back to the main building seemed much quicker and I sought out some of the other buildings on the property. Finally, eyeing the darkening sky, I jumped into my car and made my way to the main road. There was, however, a stop I had to make along the way.

The nun’s cemetery.

John, aware of my love of cemeteries, insisted that I visit on my way out and described the landmarks that I needed to navigate the area successfully. Pulling my car over to the shoulder, I headed into the darkening forest.

Now, I have watched enough scary movies to ask myself, “Why are you going into the forest…at dusk…by yourself…looking for a cemetery?”

Still, I ventured on, finding what then made sense as I saw it…a tree tunnel. Well, it was more like evergreen bushes trained to grow into a shape that resembled a tunnel, but instead of walking around it, I heeded my instructions and overcame my fear of the creepy crawlies that probably resided there. Moving quickly through it, I continually eyed the light at the end. “Come to the light,” it called, evoking memories of supernatural movies where the dead passed on, heading towards a bright aurora. That thought was applicable, as when I stepped out, it was there that I found the nun’s cemetery.

About eleven small headstones, marking the final resting place of the nuns that resided there, were scattered around the overgrown graveyard. In the moment, I was more concerned with snakes, than ghosts, so I headed back to the path.

Continuing on into the ever-growing gloom, I passed through a gate and found the children’s cemetery. Now, if dead nuns don’t make you scared, dead children might…especially in the dark.

I made quick work of photographing the small burial ground and finally, returned as quickly as I had come…maybe quicker!

A successful day of photography, both the Belmead and St. Francis de Sales, although, shadows of their former selves, make for stunning architectural subjects. It is good to know, however, that both buildings have been recently purchased by a new owner and a foundation has been established in an effort to restore and reuse the buildings.

Possibly one day, after renovations, everyone may have the opportunity to see these stunning pieces, reminders of time gone by.

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St. Francis de Sales

  • Address: 3500 St. Emma Drive, Powhatan, Virginia 23139
  • Admission: Admitted by invitation only
  • Hours: No regular hours

John Plaschal Photography

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The Eye of the Beholder

©2021 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Just because ruin has befallen something doesn’t mean it isn’t still beautiful.

The Belmead on the James dates back to 1845 when renowned American architect Alexander Jackson Davis, designed it for an eventual Civil War Brigadier General, Colonal Philip St. George Cocke. The Gothic Revival style plantation home was was built by enslaved people and set on 2,265 of rolling acres in Virginia’s historic Powhatan.

Now, here’s the part that the Catholic schoolgirl in me, gets excited…

In 1897, the Belmead was purchased by Mother Katharine Drexel, one of only two American-born Roman Catholic saints, and her sister, both nuns. The Sisters of the Blessed Sacrament transformed the plantation into two private schools, St. Francis de Sales, in a nearby Gothic towered building and St. Emma Agricultural and Industrial Institute on the Belmead property, both devoted to educating young African American and Native American students. Many distinguished students hailed from the two schools, including members of the world-class Tuskegee Airmen and Civil Rights leaders.

The school remained in operation until the 1970s. Most of the more than forty school buildings were destroyed, but three of the major historic structures still stand today. The Belmead mansion, a stone granary and St. Francis de Sales High School have fallen into disrepair, but one must always remember that beauty is in the eye of the beholder.

The photographer that set up the President’s Heads photo shoot that I had recently attended, John Plaschal, has an affinity for deterioration. Not only has he made a quite a name for himself by regularly attracting visitors to these presidential capitulums, he hosts weekend shoots at the historic sites of the Belmead and St. Francis de Sales.

The mansion is not ordinarily open to the general public, only through a partnership with John Plaschal photography, and it was truly a blessing to see it as in its current condition, it seems that its days may be numbered.

Beginning my exploration in the basement, I made my way through its ominous, darkened hallways and rooms, noting the closed-off stairways and ferns growing from the floors.

The main floor showcased many rooms including a kitchen, a sitting room and a library. Of particular fascination was the parlor, where a giant mirror lay in pieces on the floor in front of the fireplace. Though no one had been in the house since John’s last visit, it was considered odd that the mirror had fallen on its own from its secure place on the wall, its hook still in place. John explained that it is believed that the house is haunted by its original owner and they assumed that he may have been the cause. Though I never felt anything strange presences while in the building, I wouldn’t count the possibility out as with the case in many aged buildings.

As I made my way up the circular staircase, I was struck by how sad this once grand estate felt. The busted doors, cracked walls and what remained of the outdated interior finishings depicted a mere shadow of its former self.

Once I had finished my tour of the home, I made my way to the outside to analyze its facade. The colorful, diamond-shaped etched and stained glass windows highlighted its walls and numerous chimneys graced its roofline. The rear of the building, with its covered entryway, was where I began my investigation, but it was the front of the mansion that was the most captivating with its gothic tower.

Next, I headed to the nearby cemetery, Memorial Circle and the overgrown water tower all nestled deep in the woods. Alone on the dirt road, surrounded by a dense thicket of trees, it was a bit creepy knowing that just down the way was the location where a Halloween haunted drive was being set up for a scary night’s festivities. I have watched enough horror movies to know that these types of locations are where things go awry! The Memorial Circle was extremely weird with random pieces of yard furniture and decaying statues were displayed amongst the natural landscape. I made quick work of photographing the area and walked briskly back to the Belmead, breathing a sigh of relief when I reached the crumbling amphitheater.

Making my way back toward the house, I got into my car and drove past the front of the mansion towards the granary. Parking my car once again, I made my way around the granary and through the barn. There were some interesting old pieces of farm equipment and old gas pumps on the premises as well as old signs collecting dust inside of the barn.

Finally, I decided to head to the much anticipated St. Francis de Sales. As I was headed back to the main road, crossing an old bridge, I spied a cemetery on the left side of the road. Pulling over, I walked up the hill to explore the historic cemetery located there. Deeply moved, I wandered around amongst the rusting, simple white crosses that dotted the landscape. These were the graves of the people who created the Belmead plantation. Noting a plaque attached to a large boulder, I learned that these graves dated back as far as 1853 and contained both young and old. Their work of art was crumbling much the same as their grave markers.

It was sad to see a once beautiful property aging very ungracefully, yet it was exciting to be able to be one of the few allowed to experience it and to be able to capture its fading beauty. Maybe with enough attention, helped along by John Plaschal, some historic society will be able to restore it once again.

For more pictures check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Belmead on the James

  • Address: 4599 Cosby Road, Powhatan, VA 23139
  • Admission: Admitted by invitation only
  • Hours: No regular hours

John Plaschal Photography

The City of Presidents

©2021 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

While South Dakota is known for four specific Presidents, Washington, Lincoln, Roosevelt and Jefferson, carved into a mountainside, it had escaped my thorough attention to detail that Rapid City, being an extremely patriotic city, it is also known for its City of Presidents Sculpture Walk.

As I drove around the block, attempting to secure a parking spot near my hotel, I noticed many statues on each corner of Main and St. Joseph Streets. These life-size bronze statues are a tribute to our nation’s past presidents, a project which began in 2000 to honor the legacy of our leaders.

In 2000, President Abraham Lincoln was the first statue to be unveiled. Four statues a year were unveiled until 2010, when Presidents Arthur, Clinton and George W. Bush were completed.

Each of the forty-three sculptures is privately funded and placed in a pattern so as to maintain an orderly structure and eliminate any sense of favoritism or political gain. Although our 46th president is currently in office, you won’t see his likeness for a while as statues are unveiled every 4-8 years, depending on a president’s time in office and there are spots for eighty statues, so plenty of space to record our nation’s forthcoming history.

Numbers still not adding up? Grover Cleveland served twice as president, but wasn’t re-elected after his first term. He won the 1884 and 1892 elections, thus serving as the 22nd and 24th president and with the loss of the election by President Trump this past November, his statue should be in the works for an unveiling in the immediate future.

It is a lovely tribute and a great way to enjoy Rapid City’s downtown area.

Although I was headed to Mount Rushmore on my first day in town, I rose quite early on the next to take a closer look at these effigies. On this particular day, I made it through about half of the statues on St. Joseph Street, vowing to see the rest on the next.

I must admit, with the sun’s low angle due to the time of year, it was hard to get great photos of some of the statues, but at least they weren’t covered in snow…yet. That was reserved for the next day. Overnight, a light snowfall blanketed the city and the presidents! Although it was freezing…a glacial 15 degrees…I was determined to see all of the presidents that morning before leaving for the Badlands. I made a plan to walk down one side of Main Street, stopping on each corner, then crossing at Fourth Street to make it up the other side of Main. Each statue is a unique piece of artistry and represents something that the president was known for.

Gerald Ford, known for his affection for the family dog is depicted with his dog Liberty.

 John F. Kennedy is shown holding hands with his son John Jr.

Calvin Coolidge is featured waving a Stetson hat next to a saddle; the original saddle was made for the President by Bud Duhamel of Rapid City.

 John Tyler and his violin.

As I made my way back to St. Joseph Street, to see the statues I had missed the day before, I encountered some local Native American citizens who insisted I take their picture with President William Henry Harrison. They told me that they were contemplating adding a sign to the newspaper that Harry Truman was holding up, stating “Will Work For Food”! They thought it quite comical!

Intersection of Sixth and St. Joseph Streets, George Washington, Jimmy Carter, Ronald Reagan, Andrew Johnson
Corner of Fifth and St. Joseph Streets, Richard Nixon, George W. Bush, Dwight D. Eisenhower, James A. Garfield
Corner of Fourth and St. Joseph Streets, Barack Obama, Grover Cleveland, Rutherford B. Hayes
Corner of Sixth and Main Streets, George H. Bush, John Adams
Corner of Fifth and Main Streets, Herbert Hoover, Franklin D. Roosevelt, Chester Arthur and Calvin Coolidge (pictured above)
Corner of Fourth and Main Streets, Ulysses S. Grant, William McKinley, James K. Polk, Benjamin Harrison
Corner of Seventh and Main Streets, Linden B. Johnson, John Quincy Adams, James Monroe
Corner of Eighth and Main Streets, Andrew Jackson, Martin Van Buren, William Howard Taft and John F. Kennedy (pictured above)
Corner of Ninth and Main Streets, James Buchanan, Abraham Lincoln, Teddy Roosevelt, Franklin Pierce
Corner of Ninth and St. Joseph Streets, Warren G. Harding, Zachary Taylor, Woodrow Wilson, Millard Filmore
Corner of Seventh and St. Joseph Streets, James Madison, Thomas Jefferson, William Jefferson Clinton and Gerald Ford (pictured above)
Corner of Eighth and St. Joseph Streets, Harry S. Truman, William Henry Harrison and John Tyler (pictured above)

In addition to the President’s statues, you can find many famous statues throughout the city, two in particular that are located among the presidents in the downtown area with a Native American theme; Mitakauye Oyasin (All My Relatives) by Dale C. Lamphere and Hunkayapi (Tying on the Eagle Plume), by Dale C. Lamphere.

While in South Dakota, it is imperative that you make the trip out to see Mount Rushmore, but while in the Rapid City, don’t miss these amazing works of art and the downtown area which is a work of art in itself. Download the map of each of the presidential statue locations and visit the President’s Information Center for information, but challenge yourself to see how many you can recognize on your own!

Downtown Rapid City Signs

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City of President’s Walking Tour

Not So Bad

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The Badlands.

One of the world’s richest geologic deposits lies east of Rapid City. Ancient animals once roamed the land and today a wide array of wildlife can be spotted throughout the area.

I will just put it out there…the Badlands wasn’t a national park that I had aspired to visit. Although I had heard of it, it wasn’t one that I was familiar with. But hearing others insist that I make the drive and spend the day there, was enough to make me take some time to research how best to see it in its entirety while in South Dakota.

It had snowed a bit the night before and I was shocked to see those speeding along the interstate, trying to maintain the 80 mph speed limit. Creeping along at a tortoise-like speed, I spotted quite a few vehicles being pulled from the ditches and I wondered if I was making this long drive on the wrong day.

After a quick stop to see the famous Wall Drug and pick up lunch, I headed to the entrance of the park, first making a pitstop at Prairie Homestead, the place to be if you want to learn about the pioneers and first homesteaders. Though it was closed for the season, it seemed like a great place to see one of the last remaining original sod homes intact today. Many pieces of farm equipment were on display, but the best part was the many little prairie dogs running around on the premises. These were quite different than the ones I saw near Devil’s Tower…they were white! After many photos and a walk around the premises, it was time to head toward the park’s gates.

Although it was quite cold out and there was a light dusting of snow on the ground, I learned another great reason for visiting during the off-season…no entrance fee! Though I later learned that entrance fees are collected year round, maybe this was the day that someone decided to call in sick and there was no one to man the booth. Nevertheless, it was my good fortune to not have to pay the thirty dollar entrance fee!

Driving along, I was filled with anticipation because I really had no knowledge of what I would experience. A little was gleaned from looking at a map of the park, but I was excited to see what it consisted of in person. Not long after my entrance, I encountered a parking lot at the Big Badlands Overlook area. Parking my car at the base of some high geologic formations, I exited my car and walked around, following a sign pointing in the direction of the Door Trail. I made my way onto the boardwalk marveling at the large, rocky spires rising up on each side of me. The end of the boardwalk offered spectacular views over the landscape and I noticed where you could venture off of the boardwalk and make your way onto the cracked earth, riddled with gulleys and small hoodoos. Reading the directions on the posted sign, I learned that it was recommended to bring water, even during the winter, and follow the yellow trail markers along the half mile hike. Although I was alone, I decided to follow in the footsteps of two other guys who had departed just before me. Sometimes it was a bit difficult to spy the next marker, but as I stood in this foreign landscape, I likened it to being on another planet. Making it to marker 5, I decided that I had reached my limit, especially when I spotted the Beware of Rattlesnakes sign!

Finding the path back to the boardwalk, I made my way towards my car, but not before crossing the road to check out the entrance to the Castle Trail, which leads to other parts of the park. Heading back onto the Badlands Loop Road, I marveled at the stunning views that I passed, pulling over at every overlook that I came across. For once, I was thankful that no one was with me to complain about the constant breaks in my progression through the park…I simply could not help myself! It reminded me of the last time I had driven through the Valley of Fire in Nevada when each new perspective outdid the last!

Just past the Ben Reifel Visitor Center, which was closed, I spotted the Cedar Lodge, also locked down for the season. At Cedar Pass, I parked in the adjacent lot, followed the path to the boardwalk and leisurely made my way along its duration, all the while admiring the mountains that towered over me.

Back on the road, I delighted in the lack of traffic and the beauty of the day. Bright blue, almost cloudless skies hovered above me and when I came across the parking area at Saddle Pass Trail, which leads to Castle Trail, I decided it was time to take another walk and see nature’s artistry up close.

Continuing on, I drove through Norbeck Pass which is the transition zone between the upper and lower prairie environments separated by the famed Badlands Wall. It was truly amazing to almost have the park to myself. I could only imagine the amount of traffic that usually courses through the park during its peak season between Memorial Day and Labor Day. At first, I would pull over to admire the overlooks, however, when I realized that no one was ever behind me, I basically stopped in the road to take one of the thousands of pictures that I took that day.

The Fossil Exhibit Trail was next on the itinerary and I followed the boardwalk, reading the signage interspersed along its length. I gradually learned about the multitude of fossils discovered here and the animals that once called this area home.

Across the road was the opposite end of the Castle Trail that I had investigated earlier. I took a short walk along its length to check out an unusual geologic formation that I spotted from the distance.

A quick stop was made at the White River Valley Overlook and taking a look at my map, I realized that if I wanted to make the drive throughout the entire park, I would have to step it up. Finally around Burns Basin Overlook, I spotted horns sticking up from the grassy area along the road. Further up the road, I spotted Big Horn sheep grazing along the rocky shoulder making me realize that I had never seen Bison.

Thankfully, I had cell service and did a quick search on the best places to see bison in the park. I was directed to the western side of the park near Roberts Prairie Dog Town. So, I hadn’t missed them after all!

The beautiful Yellow Mound Overlook with its multicolored geology caused me to pull over once again. Yellow, purple, gray and striped reddish hills make for one of the most spectacular and colorful views in the entire park. Could this be the inspiration for the line in the song “America the Beautiful”? O beautiful for spacious skies, For amber waves of grain, For purple mountain majesties, Above the fruited plain!

I scouted more overlooks…the Ancient Hunters Overlook, the Pinnacles Overlook… and then, just past the Hay Butte Overlook, I finally saw my first bison. A group was situated in the grassy area on my right, a couple of adults and a calf. Pulling my car over to the shoulder of Sage Creek Rim Road, I grabbed my camera and walked to the rear of my car. Dark, beady eyes watched me carefully, making sure that I was no threat to its child. I didn’t dare go any closer, but when one of the adults got to its feet and turned its head towards me, I knew it was my cue to leave. How on earth would I explain to my car rental company how a bison dented my car?

A little further up on the road, I spotted a dark figure on the edge of a precipice. How nice of them to place a bison statue on the edge of the cliff! Yet as I drove closer, I realized what I was seeing was not a statue but a real live bison, standing still, alone, watching over its domain. I shot it as best I could with my camera, but if I could have been closer or had a better telephoto lens, this would have been the money shot!

Continuing on, I found this lone creature’s herd. An extremely large group of bison spread across the road and in the fields on either side. While extremely moving to be in such close proximity, it was also a bit disconcerting. Again, I worried that they might become excited and stampede. Under their watchful gaze, I drove slowly through the group until I reach Prairie Dog Town.

Much like the Prairie Dog Town I had observed near Devil’s Tower, I watched fascinated as they ran to and fro, freezing now and then to judge my presence and then duck down into their burrow. These rodents, whose name dates back to the 1700s, derive their moniker from their warning call that sounds much like a dog’s bark. Indeed, I must have been perceived as a threat, as I heard their communications from quite some distance.

Finally, as the sun was dipping down lower, I decided that it was time to call it a day. Knowing that I didn’t want to encounter bison on the roads after dark, I headed for the Pinnacles Entrance and on to Wall, where I merged on to the interstate.

For having no prior knowledge of this spectacular national park, I was so thrilled that I learned about it from a nice hunter in the airport gatehouse. It was possible that I would have learned about it simply from scouring a map or reading one of the brochures in my hotel lobby, but it could have been possible that I might have deemed another close attraction, like Bear Land, more enticing. Thankfully, I have learned to accept advice from other travelers!

So how would I rate my experience? Travel to the Badlands on icy roads during the winter months, but having the park to myself? I’d say it wasn’t so bad!

I would do it again in a heartbeat!

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Prairie Homestead

Badlands National Park

  • https://www.nps.gov/badl/index.htm
  • Address: 25216 Ben Reifel Rd, Interior, SD 57750, United States
  • Hours: 24 hours, 7 days a week
  • Admission: Private vehicle, $30.00 (for 7 days), Individual (Hiking, Bicycling, etc…for 7 days), $15.00, Motorcycle, $25.00 (for 7 days), Commercial Sedan, 1 to 6 passenger capacity, $25.00, Commercial Van, 7 to 15 passenger capacity, $50.00, Commercial Minibus, 16 to 25 passenger capacity, $60.00, Commercial Motorcoach, 26 or more passenger capacity, $150.00. Badlands National Park Annual Pass, $50.00.

Off the Wall

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An infinite number of billboards line the highway for miles between Rapid City and the tiny town of Wall (population 766).

Come to Wall Drug.

See Original Western Paintings at Wall Drug.

Don’t Miss Out. Wall Drug.

Wall Drug or Bust.

Wall Drug. The Experience. Priceless.

Only 5 cents. Hot Coffee. Wall Drug.

Free Ice Water. Wall Drug.

I was heading to the Badlands National Park, but I was intrigued and next thing I knew, I was taking exit 110 off of Interstate 90 and navigating to Wall Drug.

What was this amazing place that you could see dinosaurs, western oil paintings and get coffee for five cents?

First and foremost, Wall Drug is a drug store. It’s also a roadside attraction…a tourist stop…a restaurant…an art gallery…a shopping mall. Each store operates under the Wall Drug brand and attracts two million visitors annually who come to eat, purchase souvenirs, take pictures and see what the fuss is all about.

In 1931, Dorothy and Ted Hustead purchased the only drug store in Wall, South Dakota on the edge of the Badlands National Park. Though the store initially did not attract the attention it gets now, they both knew that Mount Rushmore would be finished in the near future and hoped that it would bring more visitors to the area.

Five years later, when business still had not picked up and cars continually passed them by, Dorothy, unable to sleep during the summer heat, came up with the idea to offer free water to travelers. Ted modeled 12 by 36 signs using Dorothy’s phrases, “Get a soda . . . Get a root beer . . . turn next corner . . . Just as near . . . To Highway 16 & 14. . . Free Ice Water. . . Wall Drug.” He spaced them out along the highway so that people could read them as they drove by.

Dorothy was right. People driving across that hot, dry prairie were very thirsty. They saw the signs and they stopped at Wall Drug, not only for ice water. And they never stopped stopping in.

Over the years, their drug store grew as did their promotions. Five cent coffee was added for those cold winter days and when the United States Air Force operated the Minuteman missile silos east of Wall, the Husteads offered free coffee and donuts to the service personnel as they traveled to and from Ellsworth Air Force Base.

As I pulled into the parking lot, I looked at the quaint buildings that lined each side of the street and was sorry that I didn’t have more time to spend in each…and sorry that I didn’t have a trusty steed to secure to one of the horsehead hitching posts.

Heading into the massive complex of stores that was Wall Drug, I was amazed at its interior. Quirky cowboy-themed statues lined its halls, mounted deer heads perched above my head and even a Zoltar fortune teller was available for everyone’s amusement. Native American tributes were abound, antique pieces scattered to and fro and there was even a Traveler’s Chapel should the need arise to offer up a prayer or two.

It was a great deal of fun wandering from store to store checking out all of the souvenirs and art pieces. I didn’t end up with lunch, which I had planned, but I did find a cute Christmas ornament which paid tribute to Wall Drug’s 5 cent coffee.

Though it was not originally in my plan for the day, I am glad that all of that advertising lured me in. A major part of South Dakota history, it was fun to see Dorothy’s plan in action and what the Husteads created in this small town.

Go get your free water!

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Wall Drug Store

  • https://www.walldrug.com/
  • Address: 510 Main Street, PO Box 401, Wall, South Dakota 57790-0401
  • Hours: Main Store, Monday-Saturday, 0800-1730, Sunday, 0800-1630. Cafe, Monday-Saturday, 0800-1700, Sunday, 0800-1600. Mall Shops, Monday-Saturday, 0830-1700, Sunday, 0830-1630. Pharmacy, Monday-Friday, 0830-1700.
  • Admission: free

Alley Art

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Graffiti…I love it!

São Paulo’s Batman Alley has been my highlight with stairwells, walls, doorways and sidewalks filled with stunning murals and artwork. While I have seen some great graffiti over the years, I have never experienced anything like Batman Alley in all of the cities I have visited.

Until I set foot in Rapid City.

As I stepped outside of my hotel in the fifteen degree morning, my only focus was the drive ahead of me to the Badlands on snowy roads. Walking toward my car, hoping there was an ice scraper, I looked immediately to my left and noticed a bit of graffiti…and a sign.

Art Alley.

The first inhabitants of South Dakota left their marks in the form of petroglyphs. Today, artists leave their stories in the form of murals in Art Alley.

In the early 2000s, artists began to use the alley as their canvas. Since then, the area has flourished and has become a social movement and a place to spread messages. The Rapid City Arts Council is in charge of the space and permits must be obtained from them or from the building owner. Though not all buildings are available for painting, there is enough surface area between 6th and 7th Streets to provide tons of space for artists’ expressions and a place for tourists to see what the art scene in Rapid City is all about.

Situated next to the Hilton Hotel Alex Johnson and countless restaurants and shops, it’s easy to see while experiencing all that downtown Rapid City has to offer.

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Art Alley

  • https://www.artalleyrc.com/
  • Address:  Between 6th and 7th, and Main and Saint Joseph Streets, Rapid City, South Dakota
  • Hours: 24 hours, daily
  • Admission: free

A Wild Time in the Wild, Wild West

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In 1876, outlaws, gamblers and gunslingers like Wild Bill Hickok and Calamity Jane arrived in Deadwood in search of gold and a wild time in the wild, wild west! Coming across a gulch full of dead trees and an abundance of gold, it is where they made their life and where they subsequently met their death.

Today, Deadwood is a place where visitors still flock to make their fortune in the casinos, but also to experience the countless activities and attractions that can be found in this small city.

Deadwood was not on my radar when I arrived in South Dakota. In fact, the only time I had ever really heard the name was as the title of an HBO American Western television series that aired from 2004-2006. When seeking ideas from others on things to do, the usual attractions came up, but so did Deadwood. Doing a quick search, I discovered many exciting things but I knew I would have to be selective as my time would be limited.

Parking at the Visitor’s Center, I ventured inside hoping to get some maps and brochures. Instead, I received some wonderful information from the lady who worked there. The most valuable being that Mount Moriah Cemetery was still open.

Having just driven there a few minutes earlier, I had found the gates closed and assumed that it, along with many other attractions, was closed for the season. Discovering that I could park and enter the side path next to the closed gates, I headed back in that direction.

This final resting place of western legends, murderers, madams and pillars of Deadwood’s early economic development is built on a hill overlooking the city. Walking along the paved paths in the late afternoon light, I quickly found the gravesites of Wild Bill and Calamity Jane. The cemetery is laid out in terraces, on multiple hillsides and is fairly easy to navigate. The most heartbreaking section, however, is toward the rear where there are many small headstones of children who died of the smallpox, scarlet fever and diphtheria epidemics from 1878 to 1880.

Also at the rear of the graveyard is a beautiful bird’s eye view of Deadwood Gulch. The American flag that flies at this point is never lowered to honor all veterans who have served our country. Another section near this area is Potter’s Field where there are many unclaimed and unknown dead. Keep an eye out amongst the trees for the numerous deer that like to hang out in the cemetery.

A visit to the cemetery should take about forty-five minutes to an hour. During the high season when the Mount Moriah Cemetery Visitor Center is open, there is a fifteen minute video and information about the cemetery history, native and introduced plant species, cemetery symbolism and death statistics within Deadwood from 1875 to 1900.

Driving back towards town, I knew that it was nearing the closing hour for many of the museums and shops. I decided to secure parking at the Visitor’s Center and take a walk through the picturesque downtown, a National Historic Landmark.

Starting at the southwest part of Main Street, I made my way northward, meandering past numerous shops, hotels, casinos, restaurants and bars all residing in well preserved Gold Rush-era architecture. My favorite discoveries were the amazing chainsaw art at Dahl’s and in front of the Four Aces Casino where I found the city’s statue of Wild Bill Hickok. After hanging out with Will Bill for a few moments, I wandered back up Main Street, enjoying the ambiance of the twilight and the awakening of the Deadwood night.

The idea of staying into the evening and finding a nice place to enjoy dinner and drinks was extremely appealing, however, with almost an hour’s drive ahead of me, I decided to head home and see what cool nightlife I could find in Rapid City’s downtown.

If you are visiting South Dakota, a trip to Deadwood should warrant more than an afternoon, since there is so much to experience. The Deadwood Brothel, The Broken Boot Gold Mine, The Days of ’76 Museum, Mount Moriah Cemetery, a little bit of gambling and much more…I was short of time, but you shouldn’t be!

My mild time could be your wild time! Make it happen!

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Deadwood Visitor’s Center

  • Address: 1-99 Siever St, Deadwood, SD 57732-1366
  • Hours: Summer, 0800-1900, Winter, 0800-1700. Restrooms and trolley waiting room. Free parking.
  • Admission: free

Mt. Moriah Cemetery

Wild Bill Hickok Memorial Statue

  • Address: 531 Lower Main Street, Deadwood, South Dakota 57732
  • Hours: 24 hours, daily
  • Admission: free

Dahls Chainsaw Art

  • Address: 596 Main Street, Deadwood, South Dakota 57732

The Center of the Nation

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About a year and a half ago, my husband and I visited the Center of the World monument while vacationing in Quito, Ecuador. When I heard about the monument for the Geographic Center of the Nation in Belle Fourche, South Dakota, I decided that I needed to plan my travel route around this attraction.

Located in western South Dakota, the monument is accessible year round, but being that I visited on Veteran’s Day, I was disappointed to find that the Visitor’s Center and Tri-State Museum closed.

What was more disappointing, however, was that I learned that this was not actually the geographic center. Kind of like in Ecuador, where a mistake in measurements resulted in the monument not being located on the exact location, the actual center is located on private property. The National Geodetic Survey chose Belle Fourche, the town closest to the actual site and the monument was placed there.

While I learned that I could drive twenty miles north to the actual center’s location (latitude 44 58 02.07622N and longitude 103 46.60283W), marked by a red, white and blue hand lettered sign and a United States flag in a private field, I just didn’t have the time.

Walking behind the Visitor’s Center and Tri-State Museum, I found the 21-foot monument, near the Redwater River, made of etched South Dakota granite and a twelve inch bronze marker from the National Geodetic Survey.

What is interesting to consider, however, is that before the addition of Alaska and Hawaii in 1959, Lebanon, Kansas was the geographic center of the nation. With the inclusion of these two states, a new center had to be determined. Keep in mind, Rugby, North Dakota has the distinction of being the geographic center of North America.

Also on the property is the Buckskin Johnny Cabin, built in 1876, which was constructed by John T. Spaulding with logs felled in the Black Hills. It was donated to the Belle Fourche Lions Club, moved to the city and restored as a historical monument to the early days of the frontiersmen. You can also find a Korean War Memorial, a Vietnam War Memorial, antique farm equipment, military equipment and a trail extending near the river.

While my stopover was short and sweet, it was a good diversion, regardless of the fact that I was led here in error.

Sometimes you win some and you lose some. All in a days adventures!

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Geographic Center of the Nation