©2021 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.
My life in the past year has not been the same, much like everyone else.
Looking forward to being able to continue my aviation career, the need to be vaccinated, so as to travel to other countries in the future, was paramount in getting back to normal. So when I was able to secure a vaccination appointment in my state of employment, I decided to move heaven and earth to ensure that I did not miss that coveted time slot.
Leaving early the morning before my appointment, I headed to New York. Deciding to stay in the vicinity of the city’s John F. Kennedy International airport, near where my appointment was located, I perused local hotels with availability for the night. Looking to get points in my favored hotel’s loyalty program was soon overshadowed by the prospect of staying at another.
The TWA Hotel.
Trans World Airlines operated from 1930 until 2001, under the operation of the American business magnate, Howard Hughes, from 1939 until the 1960’s. Formed as Transcontinental & Western Air, it operated routes from New York to Los Angeles with various stops along the way and was one of four big domestic airlines in the United States. After World War II, the airline’s routes expanded to Europe, the Middle East and Asia and competed with the famed Pan American Airways.
Though TWA was headquartered at one time in Kansas City, Missouri, it’s main transatlantic hub was located at JFK International Airport in New York City. It was here that the iconic building, designed by Eero Saarinen, that housed its flight operations was located. Sadly, however, TWA ceased operations in 2003.
The head house as the flight operations center building was known, had stopped functioning in 2002. Over the next few years, the building was protected from demolition, designated a landmark, added to the National Register of Historic Placesand and the Port Authority of New York and New Jersey sought ways to redevelop and reuse the superstructure.
Eventually, the building was incorporated into Jetblue’s Terminal 5 and talks were in the works to develop the hotel into a hotel, the first and only operating within JFK’s boundaries.
Opened on May 15, 2019, to much fanfare, the hotel consists of the two buildings, containing 512 rooms, which flank the head house. In addition to the hotel rooms, the hotel boasts a conference space, six restaurants, eight bars, a rooftop infinity pool and an aviation museum.
After arriving in Terminal 4, I made my way, via the Skytrain to Terminal 4. Following the directions that were sent by the hotel, I eventually found my way into the building.
Amazing!
As I passed the TWA travel posters, by artist David Klein (circa 1955-1965), which captured the look of cities that TWA served during the Jet Age of travel, I couldn’t wait to get to my room to see what awaited me.
The counters at the check-in area are the original counters used for check-in during the airline’s heyday and if you take a peek around them, you can find the original baggage belts still present. While the agents on duty fielded phone calls, I was able to use the self-service kiosk to check-in and activate my own key.
Finally, headed up the space-age tubes, which were featured in the movie, Catch me If You Can, I made my way to my room, #518.
Though my first thought was that it was a bit utilitarian, I soon came to appreciate the small details that made it special…brass lighting, authentic retro Knoll furnishings, another piece of Klein’s artwork, and an old, still operational, rotary phone. The glassware, soap, shampoo, wireless phone charger and even the Do Not Disturb Sign were all emblazoned with the TWA logo. Even the wall light switch near the door was designed to look like a cockpit switch.
After a bit of a rest, I headed out to see what else was housed under the historic hotel’s roof. In my tower, I found a perfect replica of Howard Hughes’ office and in the other, a replica of Eero Saarinen’s office, complete with drafting desk, blueprints and drawings from the architect’s hand. Also on display was an architect’s model of the head house. In the same tower, I also discovered an authentic recreation of a 1962 living room which included an original Barbie Dreamhouse and furnishings people of my age might remember from grandma’s house…crocheted pillow and yellow shag rug anyone?
Taking the elevator to the top of the tower, it suddenly dawned on me that I had forgotten my swimsuit. Oh well, as tempting as the 95 degree waters of the heated rooftop infinity pool was, the shock of the cold upon exiting that same pool was a bit deterring in the 40 degree weather. Instead, I walked around the observation deck, hands thrust deep in my pockets, scarf nestled around my neck, getting a good look at JetBlue’s terminal and unobstructed views of Runway 4 Left/22 Right and Jamaica Bay. Although I have spent a great deal of my career taxiing around this airport, this was definitely a view I didn’t normally get to see.
Heading back down the elevator, I entered the main part of the hall. I perused the gift shop and then discovered one of my favorite things of the afternoon…the free photo booth. Since there wasn’t anyone lining up behind me to have their images captured, I spent quite a bit of time, trying to get some good photos of myself with the TWA logo in the background. Best part of the whole thing…the pictures were immediately emailed to my account, so I was able to send to my husband and show him what I was up to!
Continuing my exploration on the main floor, I discovered the original custom ceramic floor tiles, red carpeting and red furniture originally in the TWA lounges. The large split-flap display departure board, fully restored, is in the main lobby with departure cities and times, though I didn’t do enough investigation to see if they were accurate. Along the front of the building, there were many original items on display including TWA logoed cars, Coca-Cola machines, below-wing employee uniforms, suitcases and even one of TWA’s tugs and luggage carts.
A quick walk outside the front of the building gave a great overview of the beautiful architecture of the building in the waning light of the late afternoon.
Back in the building, I made my way upstairs, viewing the original clock and old payphones, which act as the hotel’s house phones (Dial 5 for a special message from TWA!). At the top level, I found something near and dear to my heart…flight attendant uniforms!
These flight attendant uniforms (or hostess uniforms as they were once called) date back to 1944 with designs by Howard Greer and display unique TWA logo cutouts around the lapel. From 1955 to 1960, uniforms were designed by the famed designer, Oleg Cassini, known for dressing former First Lady Jacqueline Kennedy. You can definitely see the change in direction to a more polished look that these uniforms took. There are also uniforms that were worn from 1960-1965, by Don Loper, who also designed Pan Am’s 1959 uniform, Pierre Balmain, from 1965-1968, Dalton of America, from 1968-1971 and Valentino, from 1971-1975. Though the Valentino designs were the most conservative, indicative of the time (think leisure suit), I particularly enjoyed the colorful ones. There were also examples of two of the TWA pilot’s uniforms…not much has changed over the last 60 years!
Looking down at the hotel’s Sunken Lounge, I vowed to sit for a while and enjoy the view, however, before the sun headed toward its final minutes, I wanted to see up close, the view that can be had from that lounge area. Finding the doors leading to the outside, I made my way across the former tarmac, past a tug and luggage cart to one of the curated items that make this hotel so special.
Connie.
The 60-year old Lockheed L-1649 Starliner, the last model of the Lockheed Constellation line of airliners that broke the transcontinental speed record in 1946, is parked just outside, between the head house and the hotel. I wandered around the aircraft landing gear, admiring the propellers and jetway stairs and unique manhole covers. It was disappointing to find that during this chilly time of year, however, that the plane was closed to visitors. One of the things I wanted to do most was enjoy a drink inside Connie, which has been converted to a cocktail lounge, complete with original 1958 airplane chairs and a cockpit which airs JFK’s live air traffic control feed.
Finally, I made my way back into the hotel, heading to the front to purchase a couple of beers. I selected a seat in the Sunken Lounge and watched the split-flap display departure board which instead of displaying flights and times, displays pictures and messages, such as FLY TWA and I LOVE NY. As the display board began its flipping motions front the top, it was fascinating to wonder what it would eventually display. As I finally headed back to my room, I passed the Reading Room and the Twister Room and boy at that moment, I wished that I had someone to play with!
My window-facing bed, with a view of Jetblue’s Terminal 5, was extremely comfortable and extremely private when I lowered the room darkening shades. Although I would have loved one of the Historic TWA or Runway Views, those were not in my budget for this trip and I strangely enjoyed watching the police call tow trucks to haul away those illegally parked! With this view, who needs a television?
Strange thing was…I never once heard a plane take off or land and had a terrific night’s sleep, thanks to the thoughtful soundproofing. Unusual for an airport hotel!
My trip to New York wasn’t one that I originally had looked forward to, yet this magnificent hotel, made it special. Yes, I am a flight attendant and a bit of an aviation nerd, but I think that anyone who appreciates history, will enjoy every bit of this thoughtfully designed hotel.
If you are at JFK for any length of time between flights, head on over and take a look at the hotel’s lobby, which is open to the public or have a drink in Connie during the warmer months. If you have to remain in the JFK overnight, most definitely book a stay at this historic lodging.
GO FLY WITH TWA!
For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.
TWA Hotel
- https://www.twahotel.com/
- Address: One Idlewild Drive, JFK International Airport, Queens, New York 11430
- Hours: 24 hours, daily
- Admission: Free for museum exhibits. Nightly rates vary.