One of my favorite television programs is The Amazing Race.
Obviously!
Anyone who knows me knows that my passion is seeing and photographing the world and this show epitomizes travel and highlights some of the most iconic landmarks in the world. Some of my best travel ideas have come from watching the show and of course, I would love to one day compete!
On seasons 6 (2004) and 29 (2107), the Chicago Water Tower was featured in the finales of the Amazing Race. It seemed quite familiar to me as I walked by its location in Jane M. Byrne Plaza (named after the former Chicago mayor), on the way to my hotel, but it took a little research to realize why it had sparked my curiosity.
The Chicago Water Tower, listed on the National Register of Historic Places, was built in 1869 by architect William W. Boyington. It doesn’t appear to be the usual type of tower seen in most cities; designed to blend in with the nearby architecture and enclose the tall machinery of a powerful water pump which was intended to draw water from Lake Michigan.
When much of the city burned during the Great Chicago Fire of 1871, the water tower miraculously survived along with a few other structures in the area. In the years since the fire, the tower has become a symbol of old Chicago and the city’s recovery.
The second oldest water tower in the United States now operates as a Chicago Office of Tourism and as a small art gallery known as the City Gallery in the Historic Water Tower. While not acting as the finish line for television races or the inspiration for fast food restaurants (think White Castle), the gallery features the work of local photographers, artists and filmmakers and draws tourists to the Windy City for a look at a piece of the city’s historical architecture.
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My first visit to a Chinatown was in San Francisco as a new flight attendant. Although I had never been to China, in my mind this was pretty close to what I expected it to look like. Hours of my layovers were spent wandering the streets and shops, hoping one day to see the real thing when I would be senior enough to hold those trips.
Over the years, I have traveled the world and there have been multiple visits to Chinatowns throughout…New York, Washington, D.C., Milan, London, Havana, Manchester, Amsterdam…each unique in their own right, but all brimming with restaurants offering mouthwatering delicacies, shops selling everything from antiquities to dime-store trinkets and streets filled with Chinese architecture, signs and lanterns. I still love spending time in these neighborhoods and continue to seek them out whenever possible.
A friend’s retirement party brought me to Chicago one weekend this past spring. Though I had been through O’Hare airport many years ago, I had never been to the downtown area. Eager to see its highlights, I set out early. I had discovered that Chicago had a unique Chinatown and I headed in that direction with a stop at the Shedd Aquarium along the way. It was a cold and drizzly day and I huddled against the brisk wind blowing in from the lake, making my way through Grant Park, only to find an extensive line at the aquarium and a sign stating that reservations were required and no longer available.
John G. Shedd Aquarium
John G. Shedd Aquarium
Despite this disappointment, I pushed on and continued my walk along the harbor, passing Soldier Field and inspecting the bronze statues of Hall of Famers Walter Payton and team founder/former coach George Halas at the south entrance. It would have been interesting to take a tour of the Chicago Bears’ home field or take in a game, if it had been football season, but I really wanted to experience Chi-Town’s Chinatown.
Soldier Field
Statues of Chicago Bear’s Hall of Famers Walter Payton and George Halas
First encountering the crimson-hued entrance to Ping Tom Memorial Park with its beautiful Chinese-style pavilion, I then spied the Chinatown gateway at the intersection of S. Wentworth Avenue and Cermak Road. The colorful gate, a prominent display at most Chinatowns entrances, was constructed in 1975 and meant to act as a symbol of unity for the Chinese. As I walked beneath this massive structure, designed by Peter Fung, I was struck by the simplicity of its design and rich-toned hues that reflected its origins.
Ping Tom Memorial
Chinese-Style Pavilion in Ping Tom Park
Chicago’s Chinatown
Chicago’s Chinatown was first established in 1869 when immigrants began to arrive from San Francisco with the completion of the First Transcontinental Railroad. With no work to be found after the railroad’s opportunities were exhausted, the Chinese fled to other areas within the United States which were more accessible than the discriminative west coast. By the late 1800s, a large portion of the city’s Chinese residents had settled in the area which is now Chinatown and after the 1906 San Francisco earthquake, more arrived in droves.
Butcher shops, restaurants, gambling houses, Christian mission houses, Chinese laundries and grocery stores were prevalent in the area and Chicagoans, welcomed the new arrivals and patronized their businesses. In fact, frequenting the chop suey restaurants became extremely popular and more restaurants continued to open.
As expected, I found Wentworth Avenue to be replete with authentic Chinese restaurants, shops, buildings topped with pagodas, lion statues, mosaics and intriguing architecture. Although it is one of Chicago’s smallest neighborhoods, it was filled with huge sights and sounds!
Because I was obligated to meet my party for a meal later, taking the opportunity to enjoy a fare of dim-sum or noodles wasn’t in the cards for me, however, I stopped in to The Seven Treasures Cantonese Restaurant for a fresh coconut drink. Even though it was cold out, it was refreshing and reminded me of the drinks I once purchased from street vendors in Cambodia!
Before heading back to the metro, I wanted to see two of Chicago’s Chinatown’s important works of art. In Chinatown Square, I examined the two-story shopping center decorated with twelve sculptures of the Chinese zodiac and the mural “Chinese in America” which describes the history of Chinese immigrants in the U.S. and the Chinese cultural beliefs. 100,000 individually cut pieces of hand-painted glass from China were used to create this spectacular mural. Across the road and on my way to the metro station, I encountered the prominent Nine Dragon Wall. Modeled after the wall in Beihai Park in Beijing, it is made up of glazed tile from China and replicates the large dragons and over 500 smaller dragons painted in red, gold and blue signifying the Chinese focus on good fortune. It is only one of three such replicas outside of China.
Chinatown SquareNine Dragon Wall
Finally, time to head back to my hotel, I reluctantly boarded the train at the Cermak-Chinatown metro station. My time in Chi-Town’s Chinatown, was brief, yet an enlightening and entertaining experience. Much like my experiences in San Francisco many times over the years, I reveled in the art, architecture and cuisine. But as much as I enjoyed Chi-Town’s Chinatown and many others, I still found myself wishing that it could have been the real thing.
One day.
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Sometimes I feel like I don’t find churches, they find me!
I wasn’t looking to visit a church while in downtown Austin…I just happened to stumble upon one of the most historic ones in the state.
Built in the late 1800s, St. Mary’s Cathedral began as a small stone church named St. Patrick’s. As the parish continued to grow, the decision was made to build a new church. With both an Irish and German congregation, it was determined that a patron saint that reflected both heritages was needed, and St. Mary was chosen. In 1872, when Austin was made the state capital of Texas, the first cornerstone was laid, and the church completed two years later. St. Mary’s was deemed a cathedral in 1948.
The Gothic exterior seemed out of place amongst Austin’s towering skyscrapers, yet it was mesmerizing with its Gothic revival towers and spires which were added in 1907. Inside the tower, the cathedral’s bell is one of the largest in the state of Texas.
As I entered the cathedral, I was quite surprised to find a stunning interior, highlighted by spindled beams and a barrel-vaulted ceiling. Towering stained glassed windows lined each side of the church and tree-like columns were topped with foliage carved capitals. As I made my way toward the altar, I gazed upward at the bright blue dome painted with stars and flanked by two altars dedicated to the Blessed Virgin and St. Joseph and as I turned to face the rear of the church, I was mesmerized by the spectacular large rose window in the front façade.
In a city of known for its music, St. Mary’s is the site of a Christmas concert that highlights its Irish heritage. Traditional Irish and Scottish music is performed by acclaimed artists and the concert is a sellout each year.
So, when you visit Austin, not only can you experience music throughout the city, you can hear it at St. Mary’s and experience its history and architecture at the same time.
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Driving down Estero Parkway toward Naples, I came across a sign directing visitors to the Koreshan Historic Site. With no idea about what this place was, on a whim, I turned my car and decided to check it out.
What I found, blew my mind!
Anticipating a monument of some sorts, I instead found something within Koreshan State Park, very unexpected, very historical and just downright interesting.
In 1894, Dr. Cyrus R. Teed, founded the Koreshan Unity Settlement in Estero, a utopian community comprised of approximately two-hundred followers. Taking the name “Koresh”, Hebrew for Cyrus, meaning shepherd, he led his people to the area hoping to find a location which was accepting of their religious, scientific and cultural beliefs, the main one being that the entire universe existed within a giant, hollow sphere…the Earth.
At this location, the followers built a community consisting of a farm, nursery, botanical gardens, a printing facility, boat works, cement works, sawmill, bakery, store and a hostelry. Living a life based on communal living, they also lived celibate lives.
Only fourteen years after the establishment of the commune, Dr. Teed passed away at the age of 69, leaving some of the members to give up on the movement. After years of decline, there were only four remaining members in 1961, who then decided to deed the 305 acres of their land to the State of Florida as a park and memorial.
Something seemed familiar to me. The name Koresh. In 1993, a man by the name of David Koresh was the leader of a cult, the Branch Davidians, in Waco, Texas, which met a devastating ending when their compound was stormed by the FBI. As I made my way through the site, I wondered if this former settlement was related. While visiting one of the buildings, I discovered that others were wondering the same thing as the question was posed to a park ranger. What we learned was that although both were communes with unique beliefs, the only similarity was the name Koresh, one that was adopted by its leader for its meaning…shepherd.
The grounds of the Koreshan Historic Site were quite large and as I made my way along its pathways, I encountered eleven buildings, each depicting the life of the community members and other points of interest.
The Art Hall served as the cultural, religious and educational center of the community. The members produced plays and musicals and founded the Pioneer University here, which instructed students on construction, baking, beekeeping and music.
ThePlanetary Courtwas built in 1904 and served as the residence of the governing body of the Koreshan Unity, the Planetary Council. The group, composed of seven women, each handling different aspects of day-to-day living in the settlement, lived in their own room and in relative luxury.
TheFounders House, built in 1896, is the oldest structure on the site and was the home of Dr. Cyrus Teed. It was restored in 1992.
The New Store was built in 1920 to replace the Old Store located nearby. This store not only served the Koreshan community but other residents in the area and served as a general store, restaurant, post office and dormitory.
The Old Store was located on the banks of the Estero River and was in use until construction of the New Store and burned down in 1938.
Damkohler Cottage was built by Gustave Damkohler in 1882 with one room and was the first building to be constructed. This was the location where Dr. Teed stayed during his first visit to the site.
Bamboo Landing was constructed to receive visitors and freight that arrived fromthe river. The pier was also used as a stage for theatrical and orchestral performances.
The Victorian and Sunken Gardens were installed to showcase native and exotic plants that were imported by the Koreshans.
Hedwig Michel Gravesite is the final resting place of the last Koreshan to live at the settlement. Mrs. Michel arrived shortly after the death of Cyrus Teed and was responsible for a brief revival of the commune in the 1940s.
The Dining Hall. Although all that is left of the three-story building that served as a dining hall and girls’ dormitory, is the dining bell and three of the four foundation corner stones.
The Koreshan Bakery was built in 1903 and produced 500-600 loaves of bread per day. The bread was used by the commune and sold to the public in the general store.
Lillian “Vesta” Newcomb Cottage was the residence of long-time member, Lillian Newcomb and built in 1920. Originally serving as home and office of Koreshan barber, Lou Stratton, the building was moved to its current location in the1930s.
Conrad Schlender Cottage was built in 1903 and moved to the settlement in the 1930s serving as a dormitory for the male members. It eventually became the home of Conrad Schlender one of the last remaining members of the settlement.
The Small Machine Shop was built in 1905 and used to produce small detailed products.
The Koreshan Laundry handled the washing, drying and ironing of all laundry for the settlement. Built in 1903, the laundry was eventually demolished.
The Large Machine Shop was a production shop for a variety of products and materials needed by the settlement. Built in 1904, it was powered by a steam engine which also powered the adjacent laundry.
The Generator Building housed the electrical alternator, generator and power source for the community. It also provided power for the nearby communities until 1916 when Florida Power and Light assumed the task.
Of course, because of Covid restrictions, the buildings were not open, and tours were temporarily suspended. We were, however, able to peer into the windows of each and get a glimpse of what life was like for the commune members.
While most visitors to Fort Myers lean toward more popular attractions such as the Edison Ford Winter Estates and the miles of white sand beaches, this is one that shouldn’t be missed. An important part of southwest Florida’s history, it is an attraction that was truly enlightening and worth the spontaneous side trip!
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Admission: $5.00 per vehicle (two to eight people), $4.00, single-occupant vehicle, $2.00 pedestrians, bicyclists, extra passengers, passengers in vehicle with holder of Annual Individual Entrance Pass.
In 1885, Thomas Edison headed to south Florida, seeking a respite from the harsh winters. His friend, Henry Ford followed 31 years later and moved in next door!
This past spring, I found myself in Fort Myers, doing the exact same thing…seeking a respite from the remnants of winter’s wrath. Between trips to the beach and time lounging in the warm sunshine, I found myself wanting to see what it was that lured Edison and his family, and later, Henry Ford, to the area. I headed downtown to the National Register Historic Site, Edison and Ford Winter Estates.
What I found at the most visited historic home site in America (besides long lines and a hefty admission fee) was twenty acres of historical buildings and gardens including the 1928 Edison Botanical Research Laboratory.
After purchasing my admission, I followed the masses across McGregor Boulevard and began my explorations.
Starting my self-guided tour on the northeast side of the property, I visited the Caretakers’ Cottage. The cottage, which now offers various exhibits throughout the year, was one of the oldest buildings in Fort Myers when Thomas Edison arrived. Designed in the “cracker” style, it was originally used by cattlemen as they drove their herds south. The house was renovated and expanded to include a kitchen, garage and chauffeur’s quarters, making it comfortable for the caretakers who lived on-site year-round. On this day, I found the structure to be devoid of its original furnishings, but filled with an interesting display of furniture and artwork created from the wood of trees destroyed by Hurricane Irma in 2017.
Thomas Edison’s Caretakers’ Cottage
Exhibit in the Caretakers’ Cottage
Continuing my walk through the beautifully landscaped property and the Moonlight Garden, I found Edison’s study which was built in 1928 and was the site of many experiments, including underwater telegraphy. The laboratory originally contained equipment for mechanical and chemical experiments and many elements from his various companies. Eventually, his laboratory was sold to Henry Ford and moved to his collection of historic buildings at Greenfield Village in Dearborn, Michigan.
Thomas Edison’s StudyThomas Edison’s Study and the Moonlight GardenMoonlight Garden
Just across the pathway from Edison’s study, I discovered the place where the family, no doubt, spent much of their time…the swimming pool. One of the first residential pools constructed in the area, the 50’ x 20’ pool was built in 1910. A few years later, a changing room, shower and Tea House were added. As I stood in the heat of the day, I must admit, it still looked pretty inviting!
Swimming Pool Complex
Following the path along the Caloosahatchee River, I reveled in the cool breeze and stopped to inspect the remnants of the pier which had been constructed to bring in building materials needed for the estate’s creation. The river walk path, lined with tall, regal palms and lush greenery led to the property belonging to Henry Ford. In 1914, the Ford family (Henry, Clara and their son Edsel) was invited by the Edison’s for a visit. Finding the climate and area (as well as the company) to be enjoyable, they purchased the home adjacent to the Edison estate. The Mangoes, as it was named by the Fords, was built in the Craftsman architectural style and featured two stories.
PierRiverwalk
On the southwestern side of the property, I first investigated the Ford Caretaker’s Cottage, originally a garage and residence. Today, it caters to visitors of the estate and offers locally made ice cream, books and gifts as well as a place to sit and cool off. Another garage, to the rear of the main house, provided a look at five of Ford’s beautifully crafted automobiles.
Henry Ford’s Caretakers’ Cottage
Ford’s Automobile Garage
Ford’s Citrus Grove
Finally, with a quick peek at Ford’s citrus grove, I made my way to Henry Ford’s main house. Built in 1911, the American bungalow was constructed with a wide covered porch from which I and other visitors could peer into the opened, plexi-glass covered doorways of the home. The cypress ceiling with decorative beams held court over the interior accoutrements, although I was to understand that most of the furnishings on display were not original, except for the grandmother clock in the living room.
Henry Ford’s Winter Estate Main House
Henry Ford’s Winter Estate Main House
Henry Ford’s Winter Estate Main HouseHenry Ford’s Winter Estate Main House
Strolling by Clara Ford’s Michigan Rose Garden, I then had an outstanding view of the front of the Edison home, fronted by a row of majestic palms. Before heading to the porch, however, I strolled down Orchid Lane and the Friendship Walk. The lane was developed as a natural path from the mango trees that formed a line down both properties. Many orchid plants were grown here and the stones that gave sustenance to the path were quite interesting with each being a gift to the Edisons from friends, family and local community members and leaders. Started in 1928, with a stone from Hamilton Holt, the president of Rollins College in Winter Park, Florida, the pathway continued to evolve with stones, fifty in all, in memory of family members, ideologies and causes.
Clara Ford’s Michigan Rose Garden
Friendship WalkClara Ford’s Michigan Rose Garden
Making my way back to the Edison main house, I was able to examine the family’s pride and joy…the Seminole Lodge.
Edison’s Guest House and Main House, Seminole Lodge
Divided into two sections, it was interesting to contemplate the thought process involved in its design. Originally, the main house included a kitchen and dining room, however in 1906, the Edison family purchased the guesthouse, originally owned by a business associate, to house their frequent guests, including Henry Ford, Harvey Firestone, President-elect Herbert Hoover, and many others. The guest house offered a sitting room, dining room, kitchen, guest bedrooms and quarters for serving staff. The original design of the main house included a kitchen and dining room, however, with the addition of the guest cottage to the main structure, the family remodeled the main house to offer a library, a study, Edison’s den and serve as family bedroom suites, using the kitchen and dining in the guest house.
Edison’s Guest House and Main House, Seminole LodgeEdison Guest HouseWalkway between Edison Guest House and Main House
Again, we were allowed to walk on the ample covered porches and peer through the plexi-glass blocked doorways, but it was wonderful to learn that nearly all of the furnishings in the Edison main house and guest house are original to the Edison family. There were many cozy seating areas on the porch and it was assured that many a fishing tale was told here when the men returned from their days at sea. On the wall above one of the seating areas, I spied a mounted tarpon. It was amusing to read about Charles Edison’s story as to how he gaffed a 110-pound tarpon (his first), while his dad, out in a larger boat upriver, excitedly brought back his first tarpon, only to discover he had been out-fished by his son!
Edison Main HouseEdison Ford Winter Estate Grounds and GardensEdison Ford Winter Estate Grounds and GardensEdison Ford Winter Estate Grounds and GardensEdison Ford Winter Estate Grounds and GardensEdison Ford Winter Estate Grounds and Gardens
I continued to enjoy the estate grounds until I decided to make my way back to the visitor center. Although I had assumed that my tour was over, in the attached building, I discovered the museum displaying a wide assortment of machinery, Edison inventions, fishing gear along with a depiction of the pier that originally stood behind the houses, statues of both Thomas Edison and his wife, Mary, furniture and many of Henry Ford’s automobiles. I studied as many as I could of the exhibits and artifacts before making my way through Thomas Edison’s Machine Shop.
Edison Ford Winter Estate MuseumEdison Ford Winter Estate MuseumEdison Ford Winter Estate MuseumEdison Ford Winter Estate Museum
I stood looking at the tables filled with beakers and lab equipment and it was truly awe-inspiring to think of the ideas conceived and executed here. If it not for Thomas Edison, we might possibly be using candles during the nighttime hours and if it were not for Henry Ford, everyday travel as we know it, would not exist.
Edison’s Machine Shop and Laboratory
As I got back into my car to head back to my hotel room, where I turned on my lights, I realized that today, I had stood where these great men stood, saw where they worked and enjoyed what they got to enjoy, even if just during the winter.
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Covid 19 was something we didn’t see coming. It literally stopped us in our tracks.
Being in the travel industry, it prohibited me from doing my job as people were allowed to travel only for essential purposes only. While I could have remained employed, just getting to and from work proved to be problematic and it was easier to remain home.
After a year of lockdowns, however, things were starting to open up in the world and people were ready to put their toes in the water once again. Not able to travel across the pond, as Europe still wasn’t ready to welcome Americans, there were other locations that were eager to crack their doors…with a few restrictions.
As for me? I was ready to get back out there and return to work!
While many passengers weren’t even ready to sit for eight or nine hours in a metal tube with others whose inoculation status they were unsure of, they were willing to take shorter flights. Hence, the islands of the Caribbean became their go-to spot as evidenced by overbooked flights even with mandated tests to enter and depart.
Finding myself with a long layover in San Juan, I was a little unsure of what I would experience in the Puerto Rico capital during these first few months. Hearing stories of curfews and numerous restrictions, I packed my bathing suit, suntan lotion some just-in-case meal options and prayed that at least the beaches would remain open.
When I arrived, what I found at my bustling resort were pools and beaches filled to capacity with everyone happy and eager to enjoy the great outdoors and their first, in many cases, vacations in a pandemic world.
So, what would that mean when I left the resort and ventured into one of my very favorite places, Old San Juan?
Old San Juan, known for its cobblestoned streets, colorful Spanish colonial buildings and massive 16th century forts, bars and restaurants is also a busy cruise port which yields millions of dollars in revenue for the island along with millions of visitors. With no cruise ships docked at the piers and none of those passengers walking the streets, how was the old town faring?
As I watched the passing architecture from my Uber’s window, I wondered what it would be like making my way through the old town area…would shops, attractions and restaurants be open? My research had shown yes, to a degree, but just how many visitors would I encounter in the normally crowded city and how difficult would it be to wear a mask in the hot, humid climate, even outside, as was mandated?
As my driver dropped me off at Plaza Colon, the first thing I noticed was that many restaurants were not open and the ones that were, were closing fairly early. There would be none of the casual browsing in the countless shops as each only allowed three persons inside at a time, with lines slinking up the adjacent sidewalks. But the crowds one normally encounters, were not there.
Wandering the charming narrow streets, I fell into my normal routine of photographing the beauty that surrounded me. I rather enjoyed not having to wait for a group of tourists to pass so that I could get my photograph and when I finally decided to partake in Happy Hour, there were tables readily available.
I must admit, however, the mask was difficult. It was extremely hot, aggravated my asthma and I was not accustomed to wearing it for such long durations, especially in the outdoors.
Nevertheless, happy to be out and about, I made my way through the city, enjoying the architecture and city’s highlights.
Though I realized the impact of not having the number of visitors that the city was usually accustomed, it wasn’t too bad for me. If it weren’t for the masks, I could have been lost in my reacquaintance with the city, enjoying its sights and sounds. However, if I could have forgotten about the mask’s hinderance on my breathing, I think my overall experience would have been hiked up more than a notch. But there was definitely no forgetting…
I was sure to be reminded by some of Old San Juan’s landmarks.
Plaza de Armas
Yes, this was Puerto Rico…pandemic style!
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Over the course of more than a decade, I have spent considerable time in Dakar, Senegal. A vibrant city with much history and friendly people, there is no shortage of places to visit and things to do.
One of the most sought-after destinations for most visitors is Goree Island and that was the first place on my agenda when I arrived more than 11 years ago.
A short walk from our hotel was the ferry port and a twenty-five minute choppy boat ride had us approaching a colorful island nestled in the Atlantic waters off of the coast of Senegal. It was quite the adventure! Over the years, I made many trips to Ile de Goree, but some time had passed since my last. Walks around the island always revealed the Portuguese, Dutch, English and French influences. I always found photographic opportunities at every turn and I had been toying with the idea of a return.
As I overheard two of my co-workers, on their first trip to Senegal, questioning whether or not to venture out to the island on their own, I decided that maybe it was time to reacquaint myself with the beautiful island and I offered to take them there.
Noting the ferry schedule, we decided to leave our hotel (now much farther from the city center) about an hour prior to our selected ferry. Little did I realize how much more congested the city’s streets and roadways had become. Sitting in bumper-to-bumper traffic, we inched forward along the coast, ultimately realizing that we would not make it in time. Our two taxis finally arrived at the port only to discover that COVID and security restrictions had personnel limiting those who could enter and demanding identification. While I had my driver’s license with me, I discovered that two others had not brought any identification…at all. This certainly put a kink in our plans!
A gentleman, who had been hovering nearby, suddenly stepped in and introduced himself as a tour guide. He went on the explain that those wishing to visit Goree with a tour guide leading the way, could enter without identification.
Smelling a rat, I questioned him further, wanting to know the cost of his services.
“You pay me at the end of the tour what you think I am worth.”
Although he had the official tour guide badge, I have been in this situation before and it never ends well. But what other option did we have at this point? Jump into two more taxis and go back the way we had come, enduring more than another hour’s worth of traffic?
Reluctantly, I made an agreement with him. We paid him the cost of the ferry tickets and the cost of the admittance to the island along with the tour guide tax (paid to the island) and took a few seats in the nearby restaurant to wait out the time until the next ferry departure.
At two-thirty on the dot, our boat pulled away from the dock and we enjoyed the salty breeze on our journey, punctuated with pleasant conversations with some of the local women. Though these conversations seemed innocent enough, it wasn’t until we arrived that I remembered their purpose.
“Enjoy your visit. My name is Fatou. I have a stand in the market. Come see me and buy something.”
Making our way with our guide along the dock and to the crescent beach area, we waited patiently for him to settle the necessities for our tour.
Finally, we were on our way.
Everything was still quite familiar to me with a few remodeled buildings and a new market area. We listened as our guide gave us a detailed history of the island, including its role in the slave trade from the 15th to the 19th centuries, and we followed him in the direction of the House of Slaves.
The House of Slaves, is the most famous landmark on the island, built by the Afro-French Métis family from 1780-1784, and is one of the oldest structures on the island. This is the location where more than 33,000 slaves, torn from their families, were held and then shipped to the western world to work, wage free, never to return.
We made our way through each of the small rooms of the house, taking in our guide’s haunting stories, aware of the atrocities that took place where we now stood. But, until you stand at the Door of No Return at the rear of the structure, you don’t realize what each of these people must have encountered until gazing out at the water beyond the portal. That ocean was their uncertainty. Their new future. One that they could not have envisioned.
Leaving the House of Slaves, we wandered the streets, with our guide, making our way to a small shop where the art of sand painting was demonstrated. Years ago, I remembered seeing this on the hilltop area of the island, however, this store was a little nicer and allowed the artist to exhibit multiple paintings, all for sale.
After a couple of purchases, we once again entered the streets, heading to the Catholic Church of St. Charles Eglise. With my distinct fascination of religious structures, I found it odd that I had never been here before or even knew of its existence.
Remember Fatou? Well, you don’t think she or the other women were going to let us forget our promises to visit their shops. These women began to follow us, asking us to make purchases from them. Although I have more than enough African art, fabric and crafts, it is hard to continually say no when they begin to follow you, interrupting your tour.
And if that wasn’t enough, after our guide led us to the area near the fort (now a museum), relieving himself on a wall as we looked on, he then demanded his payment.
All five of us put up 10,000 CFA each, a total of almost $50.00. Unbelievably, he was not happy about that amount and demanded more, which we refused to hand over. And this was in addition to what we paid for admission to the island, the museum and for the guide tax, which he had assured me a portion would be given to him! A frustrating situation, all due to two people not having identification.
After his hasty departure (in order to make the next ferry), we made our way through the back alleys, eventually losing a couple of our group to the demanding ladies in the market. Gathering our group once again, we made our way to the highest point on the island with its winding walkway lined with giant paintings. This has always been one of my favorite parts of my visits as it is like an art gallery in nature.
On the island’s highest peak, La Castel, we found ourselves in the presence of two large cannons, remnants of the French occupation during World War II. The Vichy cannons were the largest ever made of this type and their turrets now function as homes with artwork and handicrafts for sale near their entrances and clotheslines strung with the occupants’ freshly laundered clothing swaying in the wind. Also topping this pinnacle is the WWII Commemorative Monument which is in the shape of a white sail.
Spending a few minutes in this area, we looked out on the waters that surrounded the island, remembering that the grand cliffs leading down to the ocean were the ones that Gregory Peck scaled to attack Nazi troops in the 1961 movie “The Guns of Navarone”.
Noticing the late hour, we headed down the steep walkway toward the bay and ferry dock for the next boat to Dakar, carefully evading Fatou and the others. Although we would have loved to purchase more to help their businesses, time and funds were running short.
Making our way to the front of the ferry, I suddenly realized how tired I was. It’s a lot to take on the responsibility of a group and to ensure that all goes well and that we everyone achieves what they want from their visit!
So, to wrap up this adventure, if someone asks me for recommendations on visiting Goree Island, I would give them three important pieces of advice.
Hire a reputable guide.
Make sure everyone carries identification. Pack your patience.
Well…that and a camera!
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Dakar-Ile de Goree Ferry
Ferry Schedule: Sunday, 1200-2300, Monday-Thursday, 0645-2300, Friday, 1200-2300, Saturday, 1315-2300. Ferries run every one or two hours.
Fares: Special ferry boat, 1,750,000, Resident, 2,700 CFA, Non-resident, 5,200 CFA
A year is a long way to be away from the things you love.
My job, my friends and yes, Africa!
Africa is absolutely one of my favorite places to travel to. I had not been to Ghana in a year and a half, so when I learned that I had a trip during my first month back to work, I was extremely excited!
Having spent so much time there in the past, I feel as though I know the city like the back of my hand. While looking through a map of the city, however, I realized that there are some things I had never seen except from maybe a cab window.
Rising bright and early in the morning, I had breakfast and then set out with a friend to investigate one of Ghana’s major landmarks…Black Star Square.
The public square, also known as Independence Square, hosts the city’s annual celebrations and other national events, including civic and military parades.
Completed in 1961, by prime minister and President Kwame Nkrumah, to celebrate Ghana’s independence from the British, the square boasts stands to accommodate 30,000 people, the Independence Arch, the Liberation Day Monument and the Black Star Monument, also known as the Black Star Gate.
We made our way down 28 February Road approaching the square, spotting closed gates. These gates were low enough to step over, however, and noting other people in the square, we decided to join them.
Immediately to our left, we noticed one of the highlights, the statue of a soldier, facing the Independence Arch, which symbolizes the Ghanaians who lost their lives fighting for their country’s independence.
We then walked around the parade grounds, passing by and then under the Independence Arch and the stands reserved for the notables where we were stopped by a security guard. Though we were trying to take a look at the view of the ocean beyond the square, I guess we found out that this part was off limits. The square, however, is massive with lots of other ground to cover and it would be a sight to behold to attend one of the country’s celebratory gatherings, especially the Independence Day parade which is held March 6th every year.
Moving on, we made our way across 28 February Road to the Black Star Gate. As we approached, I noticed two gentlemen under the gate stand and one begin to approach. I steeled myself for a scam, however, he was very friendly and asked us if we wanted to climb to the top. The small admittance fee allowed our entry and he would accompany us to answer any questions we might have.
Climbing the inner staircase to the top, he chatted amicably and gave us a history of the square.
Standing on the pinnacle, we had an amazing view of the entire square, the nearby Accra Sports Stadium, the coast and parts of the city. The best part, however, was when our guide, Abraham, positioned us under the huge black star and photographed us with the appearance of holding it in our hands!
We chatted a bit, took some pictures together and then headed down for views of the arch from below.
There was a great deal of visitors while we were there and I silently wondered why I had never made it here before with it being so close to my hotel and many other attractions I had visited before! Now I can mark it off the list, with the intent of possibly returning on March 6…that’s something I want to see!
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Black Star Square
Address: 28th February Roundabout, Accra, Ghana
Hours: 0600-1800, daily
Admission: free. Climb to top of Black Star Gate, 5 Ghanaian Cedi (about .83 US)
You know what they say, “Up with the chickens?” Well, I was up earlier than that. My alarm was set for 2:00 am but I actually awakened before it went off. That’s the beauty of going to bed at eight!
My bags were all packed and downstairs just in case I didn’t make it back due to a delayed or cancelled flight (I have to be out of my apartment by 10:00 am tomorrow, so if there was a problem, my bags could be stored). The flight attendant in me always worries about weather!
Enjoying the beauty of the vacant nighttime street while waiting for pickup.
My itinerary for today is:
3:30 am Pickup. Antigua to Guatemala City
6:30 am Flight from Guatemala City to Flores
7:20 am Arrive Flores. Meet driver/guide.
8:00 am Depart Airport for Peten to gather other travelers.
10:00 am Arrive Tikal
10:00 am – 3:00 pm ENJOY THE BEAUTY!
3:00 pm – 4:30 pm Tikal to Flores
6:20 pm – 7:20 pm Flight from Flores to Guatemala City
7:30 pm – 8:30 Meet driver. Guatemala City to Antigua
9:00 pm – 9:00 am REST AND RECOVER to head back to Guatemala City in the morning for my flight back to Atlanta.
It was rather interesting arriving at the airport for a domestic flight. I was nervous to be a regular paying passenger and at first, couldn’t figure out where the domestic departures were located. With the help of one of the shopkeepers, I finally found the entrance, only to realize how early I actually was. When the doors were finally opened, I discovered that the person checking the tickets, was also operating the X-ray machine and keeping an eye on people as they walked thru the scanner. Talk about multi-tasking! We are used to so much scrutiny that it was almost unsettling and I felt like I should ask, “Don’t you want to pat me down?”
As I sat in the gatehouse, I noticed the flight crew arriving. Omg, yes, I know I am getting to be a “senior mama” (flight attendant speak for “old flight attendant”) but the co-pilot looked like he was in grade school!
Finally, the boarding process began and as I gasped in horror (not really), at Tag Airlines small prop plane, I waved to my company’s plane parked at the next gate. We were soon on our way and the lake, adjacent to the airport and Isla de Flores made for a spectacular view as we touched down forty-five minutes later.
Tag Airlines at La Aurora International Airport in Guatemala City.
View of Flores during landing.
Quickly, I spotted the person waiting for me and after a short wait, we were on our way to gather the other guests on Isla de Flores. After everyone was loaded, we were finally on our way to Tikal!
Picking up guests in Flores, Guatemala, department of Peten.
Split into two groups, Spanish and English, we headed into the jungles of the UNESCO World Heritage site. Dating back to as far as the 4th century BC, this ancient city was the epicenter of Mayan culture. Between 11,000 and 98,000 people lived here at various times and the city was laid out in with plazas surrounded by temples and palaces. Today only a fraction of the hundreds of structures have been unearthed and restored, but those that are visible are spectacular and the views from the top of many are worth the strenuous climb. The park strictly controls the number of visitors and it is advisable to have a tour guide lead the way. They are extremely knowledgeable and will make the most of your time in the park. That being said, however, in the four hours allotted to us, our group enjoyed our tour guide’s intellect, however, he seemed a bit put off by our wanting to capture the monuments photographically. I understood him to say that we were wasting time, however, when you are paying for a tour, you should be in control of the outcome. I do wish that in addition to our time with our guide, we would have had more time to spend on our own afterward.
Newly hatched cicada.
Cicada skeletons and newly hatched cicada.
All in all, my visit was amazing…but extremely hot and humid…a far cry from the past two weeks in the cooler climate of Antigua. Back at the airport and waiting for our flight to Guatemala City, we noticed the sky growing darker and the wind picking up. Exactly what I said was going to happen, did.
A thunderstorm!
And it was a doozy!
Being that it was such a small airplane, we were convinced that there was no way we were going to takeoff as we watched the lightning strikes getting closer. In the United States, the airport would have been shut down, however, we were led out of the terminal, onto the aircraft and we took off! I can’t say that I wasn’t a bit nervous, however, I’m guessing these pilots knew exactly which route to fly, around that storm and we were touching down in Guatemala City a short time later.
My last night in my cute little Antigua Airbnb was a short one but I even found time to relax and enjoy a pizza from the bar next-door…gosh, I’m going to miss that pizza!
What I learned today: A LOT about Tikal!
Photograph of the day: Tikal Temple
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Hours: National Park, 0600-1700, daily. Museums, 0800-1800, daily.
Admission: Adults (foreigners), 150 GTQ (about $20 USD). Children under 12, free. Sign up for sunrise tour to enter park before 0600, ticket fee is 250 GTQ. Tickets purchased after 1500 are valid for next day. Guatemalan citizens enter park for free on Sundays. From Flores, you can take tour companies. A return ticket with a guide will usually cost 100 GTQ or around 70 GTQ without a guided tour.
Getting There: Various bus companies run between Guatemala City and Flores, taking approximately 8-10 hours. Tag Airlines has flights from Guatemala City to Flores about three times daily. Additionally, you can arrive from Belize City by bus, taking approximately three hours. From Belize City to the border is approximately 1 hour and at the border, you can take a collectivo which takes about two hours (100 GTQ) to Tikal. Alternatively, there are buses from the border to Flores and from Flores you have plenty of options to arrive at Tikal.
This morning was an important one and I guess that why I was up at 3:30 am.
It was COVID test day!
It really bothers me that another country will allow me to enter with my vaccine card, yet the country where I received my vaccine requires me to have a COVID test to enter and my vaccine card carries no weight. So, on my trip, I have to spend time and money to get this test in order to return home within 72 hours of departure. With clinics not open on Sundays and only half days on Saturdays, you really have to plan accordingly.
My Airbnb host had told me of a clinic nearby that was charging $50, but thankfully, I asked around and found another about three blocks away that charged $35. They were extremely helpful with my questions during the week and greeted me warmly when they arrived.
Yes, I was the first person in line, thanks to my early awakening!
Watching the early deliveries while waiting for the clinic to open.
Heading back to my apartment after my test, I had breakfast and killed some time before heading back to get my negative result!
It was early and the day was looking to be a beautiful one, so I decided to walk to the Colegio Campania de Jesus (which was closed again) and ended up at the Museo de Caballeros at the Palacio Santiago de Capitanes Generales in the Plaza Mayor. It’s a small museum that introduces the colonial life during the sixteenth, seventeenth and eighteenth centuries through paintings, furniture and historical artifacts. There is also an important collection of weapons which gives the museum its title.
Colegio Compania de JesusColegio Compania de JesusView of Volcan Agua from Plaza MayorPlaza Mayor Museo de Caballeros at the Palacio Santiago de Capitanes Generales Weapons Exhibit at Museo de Caballeros at the Palacio Santiago de Capitanes GeneralesMuseo de Caballeros at the Palacio Santiago de Capitanes GeneralesMuseo de Caballeros at the Palacio Santiago de Capitanes GeneralesView from Upper Level of Museo de Caballeros at the Palacio Santiago de Capitanes GeneralesMuseo de Caballeros at the Palacio Santiago de Capitanes GeneralesMuseo de Caballeros at the Palacio Santiago de Capitanes GeneralesMuseo de Caballeros at the Palacio Santiago de Capitanes GeneralesWalkway in front of Museo de Caballeros at the Palacio Santiago de Capitanes Generales
Across the plaza, I headed to the Museo Los Libros, but found it to be closed. I was very disappointed as I had heard that it has a beautiful interior and an interesting collection of books.
Museo Los Libros
Returning to my apartment (after a few shopping stops), I began the arduous process of packing. How do you fit your numerous purchases into your bags that had already come full? Well, that was a work in progress all day!
After lunch, I headed back out, bound for the southernmost part of town. It was a long walk, but I wanted to see El Calvario church. I had learned of this church and their procession during Semana Santa during my last visit. I don’t think we witnessed their procession, but I remember seeing the church’s location on the map and thinking what a long way they had to travel. Along the street leading to El Calvario, I noticed many small chapels that were numbered with Roman numerals. They were locked, but noticing that they led to the church, I assumed (correctly) that they were Stations of the Cross, with the final one on the church grounds.
Stations of the Cross on the way to El Calvario
El Calvario’s exterior was a bright yellow, very different from others in the city and its grounds were well maintained. Entering the church, I found it to be rather minimalistic with a barrel vault and dual-colored stained-glass windows. I didn’t stay long as I was reprimanded for taking photos. What I did learn later was that the church’s walls were once graced with paintings by 18th century colonial artist Tomás de Merlo, which were taken a few years ago by thieves. These paintings which depicted the Passion of the Christ were valued at approximately $300,000 each and were prized possessions of the church. Sadly, they have not been recovered.
El Calvario ChurchEl Calvario ChurchEl Calvario Church
One of the highlights of a visit to the church is the Esquisúchil tree in the garden which was planted in 1657 by Holy Saint Hermano Pedro de San Jose de Betancourt, Central America’s only saint. This tree, with its aromatic flowers is believed to have curative powers.
Statue of Holy Saint Hermano Pedro de San Jose de Betancourt and the Esquisúchil tree The Gardens of El Calvario Church
Soon on my way, I passed the ruins of the old El Calvario church and then the church of San Jose de Viejo, which is still in operation and has the appearance of many of the ruined churches.
Ruins of Old El Calvario ChurchThe Church of San Jose de ViejoThe Church of San Jose de Viejo
Finally, I took a less direct route home, enjoyed the different scenery, eventually stopping at a Venezuelan restaurant for a quick dinner of pastelitos and tequenos! Yum! That was perfect for an early night!
Sights Around the AntiguaSights Around the Antigua
Sights Around the Antigua
Sights Around the Antigua
Ermita de Santa Lucia
Ermita de Santa Lucia
Tikal in the morning!!!
What I learned: Bring an extra suitcase to Guatemala for your purchases.
Photo of the day: No parking
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Museo de Caballeros at the Palacio Santiago de Capitanes Generales
