Stumbling Upon San Ramon

© 2018 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

An abundance of enchanting cities and towns are encountered while driving throughout Costa Rica.  One of the most picturesque, is the small city of San Ramon, which lies just 50 miles from San Jose’s international airport.

Located in the province of Alajuela, San Ramon is known as the “city of presidents and poets” since five different presidents in the history of Costa Rica were born in this agriculturally devoted province.

Since I knew none of this, it was only through my particular navigational skills that we ended up passing through San Ramon.  With its scenic Parque Central, Museum and Catholic Church dominating the center of town, it was hard not to want to take some time out of our journey back to San Jose and explore a bit of the city.

The most dominating feature, the impressive San Ramon Nonato Parish Church (Temple Parroquial de San Ramon) immediately grabbed my attention.  Cruising around the block, scouting safe parking options, I finally secured a safe spot next to the church.

Taking a walk around to the front of the church, I first crossed the street in order to wholly appreciate the imperious facade.  The Gothic structure’s metal frame was fabricated in Germany by Engineer Hernan Gutierrez Braun and construction was begun in 1928 with its completion almost 26 years later.  The twin towers dominate the skyline and the small clock under the crucifix advises visitors to the adjacent park of the time.

The church’s interior offers three aisles,  vaulted ceilings, vibrant stained glass windows and an assemblage of emblematic statuary.  Be sure to visit the moneybox to make an offering to one of thirty-six saints and take a walk up the center aisle to admire the intricately carved altar.

During the weekday afternoon, there were a handful of congregants, but during the weekend, especially Sunday afternoons, the church is filled to capacity.

After your tour of the church is complete, be sure to take a look at The Rancho Tipico, located immediately north of the Church.  Constructed in August 2006 for Fiesta Patronales de San Ramon, an annual local celebration, it is quite the impressive sculpture.

Though my time was limited in San Ramon, I have tucked away the memory of its simplistic beauty and affable locals for another time.  With its quaint museum, beautiful park, restaurants, shopping and natural nearby attractions, San Ramon is definitely on my list for a future visit.

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 San Ramon Nonato Parish Church
  • Hours:  0800-1800
  • Admission:  free

 

Rollin’, Rollin’, Rollin’

© 2018 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Have you ever had the desire to experience life as a hamster?

Run around in tubes, eat seeds, exercise in a wheel, roll around in a ball?

Well, you can do one of those “hamstery” things while in Costa Rica.  Zorbing is an amazing experience in which you roll down a hill inside a large ball sphere made of plastic!

My son discovered this crazy attraction and decided that he absolutely had to do it!

The adrenaline-fueled sport originated in New Zealand in the 1990’s and became known as Zorbing as the sphere invented for the sport had the trademarked name, “ZORB”.  The spheres used have another inner sphere, connected by hundreds of small ropes with an air gap between which provides cushion for the occupants.  After climbing into the inner sphere through an opening, the rider will slide around freely, with the help of water, as the ball rolls down the course.

After booking his Zorbing adventure at Mistico Hanging Bridges Park, my son and I were driven over to the Zorbing course, a winding, zigzagging ditch carved into a 190-meter hill.  At the top of the hill, my son stripped down to his bathing suit and crawled into the hole in the ball, sloshing around and waiting to be upended.

A big push sent the ball rolling down the course, back and forth, until it reached the bottom…and the funny thing was…you could hear my son screaming and laughing, while he was slipping and sliding inside, all the way down!

After the first venture, he was driven back up to the top and climbed in to do it all again.  Before his second journey, however, the driver got me down to the bottom so that I could photograph his big finale.  I have to say, it was quite weird watching him slide out of the ball in a big gush!

This thrilling experience is like no other and one of the many things to do in the Arenal area.  Daredevils can reserve their ride on the Mistico website, however, if you find yourself outside of Costa Rica, never fear!  Zorbing is offered in ten other action-loving countries!

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Arenal Zorbing at Mistico Park

  • https://www.misticopark.com/tmp/arenal-zorbing/
  • Address:  1.5 miles over the cobblestone road next to Lake Arenal Dam in La Fortuna de San Carlos, Alajuela, Costa Rica.
  • Hours:  0800-1530, daily.  Reservation required.
  • Admission:  $35 for two rides for single participant (per ticket).  Riders must be at least 47 inches tall.  Rides last approximately 25 minutes.
  • Other Zorbing locations:  Guam (ZORB Guam-Yona), India (Ski Himalayas-Burwa, Himachal Pradesh), Japan (Ikawa X Park-Miyoshi-shi, Tokushima Prefecture), New Zealand (ZORB Rotorua-Rotorua, Bay of Plenty), Philippines (Ride the Zorb!-Boracay Island, Aklan), Slovenia (Zorb Slovenija-Bohinjska Bela, Bled and Zorb Ekopool Celje-Runtole, Celje), Sweden (ZORB Sweden), Thailand (Rollerball Phuket-Patong, Phuket), United Kingdom (Orbzorbing-Manningtree, Essex, Madtrax Mayhem-Glasgow, Scotland and Go Zorbing London-Whyteleafe, Surrey), United States (Amesbury Sports Park-Ambesbury, Massachusetts, Eagle Falls Ranch-Eminence, Missouri, ZibZorb-New Florence, Missouri, Ski Roundtop-Lewisberry, Pennsylvania and ZORB Smokey Mountain-Pigeon Forge, Tennessee 

Hang’em High, Hang’em Low

© 2018 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Adventure…its everywhere in Costa Rica!

Just around the mountain from our hotel, outside La Fortuna, was a park full of adventure…Mistico Hanging Bridges Park.

The park’s main attraction is its swinging bridges, high above the rain forest, but the park also has other types of adventurous activities.  Afraid of heights?  You can stay closer to the ground…say, on horseback.

Mistico Hanging Bridges Park was once a vast area of farmland.  At the beginning of the 20th century, the proprietors of the acreage, husband and wife, Landelina Rodriguez Sánchez and Adrian Castilla, realized the value of their land and its natural resources.  Deciding to keep the wooded portion of the mountain intact, they decided to open the forest sanctuary to the public at the beginning of the 21st century.  Development of the hanging bridges and trails followed which would allow visitors to enjoy the forest’s beauty comfortably and safely while protecting the flora and fauna.

As we arrived at the park, the rain was coming down at a steady rate, but it was to be expected…it is a rain forest after all and the area receives between 74 and 178 inches annually.  Donning our rain jackets, we grabbed an umbrella, paid our admission and waiting for our admission time.  (Admission times are spaced to avoid congestion on the trails and bridges).

By the time our admission time had arrived, the rain had stopped, leaving everything damp and fresh.  We followed the wet paved trail into the park, admiring the delicate flowers and plants still covered in water droplets.  Following the colorful map provided by the park, we first found ourselves in the Rufous Gardens, a level circuit with exquisite flowers, trees and places to rest and enjoy the view.

Leaving the gardens, we made our way on to the main trail, winding our way steadily up the mountainside, crossing a few fixed bridges along the way.  A short time later, we found our way to the first hanging bridge.  A bit of a back log had us waiting a while to pass over…workers monitor the bridge and allow a limited number to cross the bridge at one time.  Unfortunately, there are those who are not as considerate of other’s time and paused one to many times to take selfies and pictures of the surrounding area.

Finally, we made our way as steadily as possible across the shaky span, marveling at the clouds swirling around the treetops.  From the bridges and the higher parts of the trails, epiphyte plants, birds, mammals and butterflies can be observed up close.  Some of the high altitude birds include the bell bird and the Emerald Toucanette, while at lower elevations, toucans and turkey hens can be spied along with migratory birds of prey during the months from November to February.  High altitude trees include Yema Huevo, Cirri and Pilon trees and in the lower regions, Caobilla, Fruta Dorada and Maquenque trees.  Keep an eye out for frogs, snakes, lizards and mammels such as kinkajous, raccoons, margays, ocelots, pumas, jaguars and tapirs.

The trail spans almost two miles and can be covered in about two hours.  Six more hanging bridges are spaced out on the trail, along with a waterfall and viewing area and a tunnel.  Each of the bridges vary in length and believe it or not, after the first bridge, the crowds thin.  Maybe visitors decide that one is enough.  Maybe they think they are too shaky or they run out of time, but at the end of the trail, the last few bridges have no one on them, allowing ample time to enjoy the views from the center of the bridge.

If the trail only whets your appetite for the area, there are many other tours and activities offered by Mistico Park such as horseback riding, and canyoneering in Spider Monkey Canyon.  There is also a restaurant on the premises if you need a bite to eat between adventures!

There are other similar parks in Costa Rica offering hanging bridges and nature trails.  Though we didn’t visit them and can not offer a comparison, we thoroughly enjoyed our time in Mistico.  With so many things offered in the well-manicured park, I would definitely consider visiting again in the future and sampling the other offerings.

For more pictures, check out Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

 

Mistico Hanging Bridges Park

  • https://misticopark.com/
  • Address:  1.5 miles over the cobblestone road next to the Lake Arenal Dam in La Fortuna de San Carlos, Alajuela, Costa Rica
  • Hours:  0730-1630, daily
  • Admission:  Hanging Bridges Self-Guided Tour, $26 per person.  Natural History Walk, $38 per person.  Birding Tour, $49 per person.  Night Walk, $49 per person.  Arenal Volcano Expedition, $75 per person.  Spider Monkey Canyon, $75 per person.  Paco’s Horses, $55 per person.  Hours for each activity vary, check website.

City Sloths

© 2018 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Sloths sightings?

Visitors to Costa Rica, always want to make sure they see at least one.

Driving through La Fortuna toward the Arenal Lake, we noticed a few people standing on the side of the road, near a large tract of trees, looking upward and pointing.  Not sure what they were looking at, we noticed a sign, The Sloth Trail.

Finding myself with a bit of time on my hands that afternoon, I headed back to the area where I saw the sign.  After parking my car, I headed to the small hut and inquired about a tour.  Admission was only about $10, however, if a guide was requested, it was $32…a bit high I thought, but the tour was to last about two hours.

What the heck…I really had nothing else to do.

Sloths are tree-dwelling animals that reside in Central and South America and belong to two families, the Megalonychidae (two-fingered sloth) and Bradypodidae (three-fingered sloth).  They are related to anteaters and consume such small amounts of energy, they lower their metabolic rates and body temperature to balance it out.  If you every wondered why they move soooooo slow, this is why.  However, if you every get to see a sloth swim, they could be gold medal contenders!

Sloths sleep at least fifteen hours a day, so catching them in action is usually quite difficult, especially when in the areas containing the two-fingered sloth, a mostly nocturnal animal.

We were lucky to have seen sloths at close range in La Paz Waterfall Gardens and we had spotted a few while floating in the Balsa River, but I was anxious to see if I might spot more in the wild, at a closer range.

Paying the admission, I joined my tour guide, Jason, as we made our way to the front of the property where all of the people were standing and pointing.  High in the treetops, was a mother sloth holding her baby against her.  Jason explained that this mother usually remains in that area, however, a couple of days before, she had made her way, with her baby, to the front of the property near the hut, to urinate and defecate (the only reason they leave the trees, once a week).  Needless to say everyone present was quite excited!

Using the spotting scope that Jason had brought along, we watched the mother as she moved languidly, eating the leaves in her proximity.

Moving on to the forested area, we walked along the trails, Jason stopping occasionally to show me various plants and flowers within the small woodland.  We were quite lucky and spotted about five other sloths, however, I had not brought my telephoto lens and could not capture any good photos of the adorable creatures.

Though the area was quite limited, I learned that there were many other things to discover within that small thicket.  I really enjoyed finding both blue jeans poison dart frogs and a red-eyed tree frog, however, we were especially careful as fer de lance vipers are constantly spotted in the area. My favorite thing though, was a plant that appears to die when you touch it…the Mimosa Pudica is also known as the Sensitive Plant, Touch-Me-Not, Tickle Me Plant, Shame Plant or Humble Plant.  A creeping annual or perennial flowering plant of the pea/legume family, it usually grows in shady areas under trees or shrubs.  Found in Central and South America, in some Asian countries, and in the southern part of the United States, its compound leaves fold inward and droop when touched or shaken, defending itself from harm.  Its leaves open a few minutes later.

As it was getting late in the day and the night walks were beginning, we completed our tour.

There are many companies offering sloth tours in the area.  This one was close to town, was convenient for the amount of time I had and offered a nice private tour.  If I ever decided to do another sloth tour, I would be sure, however, to have the camera equipment needed.  Lesson learned…do your research and be prepared if seeing a sloth is important to you.

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The Sloth Tour

  • This was located just past the town of La Fortuna on Highway 142 across from restaurant La Choza del Marisco.  If you pass the souvenir shop Original Grand Gallery on the right, you’ve gone too far.
  • I could not find any information on this place online, leading me to think it is a new business.  Prices were estimated and no picture of the outside sign were taken.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Paddle Forward!

© 2018 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Rising early, I was hoping for a grand view of the Arenal volcano at sunrise before we set out for our whitewater rafting trip.  Low clouds…no luck!  In fact, we watched as it drizzled a bit while eating breakfast and wondered what our day might be like on the Balsa River.  I knew we were going to get wet, but, I was hoping for a little sun!

Having booked a whitewater rafting trip with Arenal Rafting, we set out down the little rocky mountain road to make the thirty minute trek into La Fortuna.  Although Arenal Rafting offers pick up at local hotels, we were a little too far from town so we had planned to check-in at the company’s office.  Arriving early, we learned a lot about the area and what our day would entail from Arenal Rafting’s owner, Danial Anchia, a local whitewater enthusiast, pioneer of the adventure industry and member of the Costa Rica National White Water Rafting Team.  We were definitely in good hands!

Used with permission, Arenal Rafting

Departing at 9:00, we joined a friendly group on the tour bus, making our way down scenic highways, past other attractions and quaint towns.  After a quick stop at a local restaurant for coffee and a bathroom break, we continued the journey to our starting point.

Even though I had done a short rafting trip (5 km) in Thailand in the Phang Nga province a few years ago, I felt a different dynamic here and was a bit nervous, especially when we were instructed on what to do within the raft…besides paddle.  There was so much to remember, depending on what the conditions were in the river.  If there were many rocks…“Get Down”…and we had to slide down to the floor of the raft and hold our paddles upright.  “Paddle Forward” and “Paddle Back” were the easiest.  Then, the scariest of the instructions…What To Do If You Fall Out of the Raft!  Surely that wasn’t going to happen?

The waters of the Balsa River are controlled by the government and released during certain times of the day, allowing suitable conditions for whitewater trips down the river.  As we waited for the river to rise to the appropriate level, we were divided into groups…my son and I were matched up with three lovely young ladies from Beijing and placed with Arenal Rafting guide, Melvin.

Stepping into the raft, we pushed off from the bank, the swift current carrying us rapidly down the river.

“Paddle Forward!”  We all paddled…some a little more forcefully than others and some keeping better time with each other.  It definitely took a little effort to get it down pat.

Used with permission from Arenal Rafting

When we entered the areas of stronger rapids, my nerves ramped up, especially when we heard Melvin yell, “Get Down”.  This took a few attempts, on my part, to remember the correct way to hold the paddle upright without decapitating my son who was with me, on my right, at the front of the boat.

The cold water continually splashed over the front of the boat, making us gasp and we relished the moments when the waters calmed for a few seconds.  Thankfully, we all managed to stay in the raft, though I can’t say another raft from another company was as fortunate.  As we swung around a large boulder, we watched their raft coming toward us, their smiles and elation turning to horror as they hit the boulder and flipped into the river…all while Melvin was yelling for us to “Paddle Forward!”.  As I turned around, I realized that our numbers had increased as we had fished some of their group out of the river.  A few scrapes and a drenching, but all were okay!

Used with permission from Arenal Rafting

Soon the waters steadied to a slow flow and we were able to marvel at the beauty of the Costa Rican terrain.  Breathtaking flowering trees, sloths hanging onto the occasional branch…we even spotted a toucan flying above us, making a river crossing. Truly, spectacular sights to behold!

Used with permission from Arenal Rafting

Pulling our rafts onto a nearby bank, we mingled with other rafters while our guides prepared a delicious snack of fresh fruit to enjoy as we rested our weary  arms.

A short while later, we headed back into the course, aiming to complete our journey.  Letting my guard down, I felt a tug on my life jacket and thanks to Melvin, took an involuntary swim.  I don’t know if I have ever experienced cold water like that…definitely takes your breath away!

Spotting our buses in the distance, parked under a bridge, we realized our intrepid journey had come to an end as our guides offered us warm, dry towels, waters and best of all, beer!  We could all toast to a successful trip!

After a stop at a local restaurant to dry off and change clothes, we were treated to a lunch of chicken, rice and beans.  Muy delicioso!

Our river journey had finally come to end.  Not having had any experience with any other companies or recommendations when booking our whitewater rafting trip, it was fortunate that I found Arenal Rafting.  A company that takes safety, as well as hospitality seriously, we couldn’t have enjoyed our adventure any more than we did!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

 

Arenal Rafting

  • http://www.arenalrafting.com/
  • Balsa River Tour, Class II and III rapids.   Tour offered daily, departure 0900, return 1500.  Appropriate for ages 8 years and older.  $65 per person
  • Toro River Tour, Class III and IV rapids.  Tour offered daily, departure 0900, return 1500.  Appropriate for ages 12 years and older.  $85 per person.
  • Upper Balsa River Tour, Class III and IV rapids.  Tour offered daily, departure 0900, return 1500.  Appropriate for ages 12 years and older.  $85 per person.
  • Transportation offered from local La Fortuna hotels.

The Road Less Traveled

© 2018 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

La Fortuna…here we come!

So you ask, what’s in La Fortuna?  I will be completely honest.  At the time we set out from Villas Calas, I really had no idea.  Friends had highly suggested we go there, however, and I had booked a white water rafting trip that we needed to get to.  I was ready to find out!

Turning on the GPS as we left Villas Calas, I discovered that it was sending me back toward San Jose and then up the western side of the country, something that was a bit confusing.  I always like to look at routing on a map before blindly letting Siri (or any other electronic voice) lead me and it appeared that we needed to continue north toward San Miguel.  Though my son (a child of the electronic navigation era) insisted we follow the directions coming from our GPS, I decided to go with my gut…I wanted to see some new landscapes after all!

Passing La Paz Waterfall Gardens, we crossed a bridge on Highway 126 and stopped along the roadway to admire the La Paz waterfall that we had seen the day before from within the park.   Continuing on, I soon discovered why GPS might have been trying to route us a different way…this was a winding road along the side of a mountain!  Adapting my race car driver persona, I swallowed the lump in my throat and drove carefully, yet as fast as my little rental would allow.

Before long, the steep drop offs on the side of the road didn’t terrify me and we even pulled over a few times for some stunning photos.

About three hours later, we were pulling into  La Fortuna, the small town in the northwestern part of the country which is home to Arenal Volcano National Park.  Indeed, as we drove down the main street, it was apparent that the stunning volcano takes center stage.

After a quick lunch at one of the many establishments lining the main street, we walked around investigating each of the souvenir shops located in the downtown area.  Finally securing a few beautiful masks for my collection and trinkets for our loved ones back home, we took a walk around Parque La Fortuna and took a quick look around the Catholic Church, La Parroquia San Juan Bosco La Fortuna.  Though the church lacks the opulence and history of many of the churches I have seen throughout the world, I loved that it was the center of the town…the center of life in La Fortuna.  Containing a prominent mural of Jesus Christ behind the altar, a red, black and yellow patterned floor, striped columns, and a beautiful stained glass over the front door depicting the patron saint, the church’s interior was a vibrant one.  Though I thoroughly enjoyed the interior, most visitor’s enjoy the view from the outside with the stunning Arenal volcano behind.

Finally, with mid-afternoon approaching, we decided to head toward our hotel, which would be our base of operations for the next couple of days, the Arenal Lodge.

Thirty minutes later, after driving across the dam on Lake Arenal and a treacherous climb up a steep, mountain road, we chuckled at the sign greeting us.  You made it!  Yes, we did!

The Arenal Lodge is located on 2,000 acres and is known for its stunning views of the Arenal volcano and Lake Arenal.  The rainforest surrounding it is home to  exotic birds, butterflies, frogs, small animals, tropical flowers and native trees which can be viewed from the walking trails leading from the lodge or from horseback rides led on the trails throughout the day.

The Lodge is rustic and casual and offers a infinity edge pool surrounded by a hummingbird garden, two heated jacuzzis, hidden within the garden’s blossoms and greenery, a game room, an outdoor playground and a gym.

If braving the steep, jagged road back to town in the dark isn’t appealing, especially after a few drinks, the lodge offers a full service bar and restaurant, serving international and casual Costa Rican cuisine with views of the volcano and a large outdoor seating area on the deck.  An extensive complimentary breakfast is also offered and rooms contain microwaves and refrigerators.

Sitting on my balcony, relaxing in the hanging swing, gazing out at the Arenal volcano, I sipped my Imperial beer, marveling that we had made it!  Two days ago, we had no idea where we would be and now, I was gazing out at one of Mother Nature’s marvels.

Life is good.

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

 

Parroquia San Juan Bosco

  • Address:  Alajuela Province, La Fortuna, Costa Rica
  • Hours:  0800-1800, daily
  • Admission:  free

Aremal Lodge

  • http://www.arenallodge.com/
  • Address:  142, 200 meters Northwest from the dam of the Arenal Lake, Fortuna de San Carlos, Alajuela, San José, 1250, Costa Rica
  • Room Rates vary by time of year and type of room requested;  Economy, Garden View, Family Suites, Junior Suites, Chalet, Honeymoon Suite and Master Suite, approximately $70-200 per night.   https://www.bookingplacecostarica.com/reservations/hotel/availability.aspx?hotelId=HA0416

 

 

 

 

Discovering Pura Vida

© 2018 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Rainforests?  Volcanoes?  Beaches?

If a vast array of nature’s offerings is what you are searching for in a vacation, then head down to Costa Rica, the rugged, rainforested country nestled between the Caribbean and Pacific. With a quarter of the area comprising protected jungle teeming with wildlife, many outdoor adventures await.

When my son and I departed from Richmond, early in the morning, we honestly did not know where we were going to end up that night.  Our suitcases were packed with a wide array of clothing options which would cover us from Alaska’s frigid temperatures to the Caribbean’s torridity.  Hoping to be able to escape winter’s wrath, we decided to try for the first flight with remaining space…San Jose, Costa Rica.  Though the flight was booked on the heavy side, we managed to secure two seats and were soon on our way.  Four hours later, our passports were being stamped and we were shuttled to our hotel for the night.

The plan was to pick up our car the next day and set out to see what we could find.  With suggestions from my flight attendant friends, we booked a room for the next night in Heredia and decided to visit the La Paz Waterfall Park.

Although we had a bit of a late start, we knew that our destination was only about an hour away and we would still have the entire afternoon to explore…or so we thought.  Traffic on the two lane highways was heavy as many tourists and locals made their way into the mountainous countryside.  We followed the other cars, passing coffee plantations, small restaurants and souvenir stands.  As traffic came to a standstill near the turn which would take us to the park, it was evident that the many locals we noticed in the lines of cars were not going to the same place as we were.

Inching our way up Highway 126, it soon became evident why our drive had tripled in time…a festival.  Cars were parked along the highway for miles and those departing walked with their children in strollers, carrying balloons, cotton candy and stuffed animals.  Eventually, we creeped past the carnival location, gaining speed and arriving at our destination with enough time, we were told, to see everything the park had to offer.

La Paz Waterfall Gardens is an eco park with five waterfalls, a cloud forest, a rain forest, hiking trails, an aviary with numerous species of birds, toucan feeding demonstrations, a butterfly observatory, monkeys, a hummingbird garden and snake, frog, jungle cat, insect, orchid and heliconia exhibits.

As we ventured into the well-manicured, but jungle-like landscape, we first encountered the aviary which contains some of the most exciting and colorful birds of Costa Rica.  The birds that reside here have been illegally captured by hunters and confiscated by the government or donated by their owners. Unfortunately, they all lack the basic skills to survive in the wild on their own, but are well cared for by the staff of the park.  Inside the aviary, we entered the toucan enclosure where we were assisted with feeding the toucans by holding food in our mouths.  Once we moved our hands and exposed the food, the friendly birds took the food straight from our lips!

One of the knowledgeable guides continued to walk with my son and I through the aviary, pointing our different species, including macaws, tanagers, parrots and finches.  Leading us to a caged enclosure, we discovered two sloths hanging from their wooden perches. This amazing guide not only took my camera into the enclosure to take some pictures for me, he then invited us into the cage after a group of onlookers had departed.  What a treat!  We were able to stand just below the sloths for great photo opportunities…one even reached down in an attempt to comb my hair with his long claws!

Thanking the guide, we continued on into the insect exhibit and the butterfly observatory where many of the 25 species of butterfly continually landed on our arms, heads and even my face.  My favorite part of the observatory was the laboratory area where we could observe the butterflies emerging from their chrysalis or in larva stages of their growth.

Exiting the observatory, we walked through Monkey Pass inspecting the spider and white-faced monkeys climbing and swinging through their exhibit.  These monkeys had once been illegally held and were confiscated by the Costa Rican Ministry of Wildlife.  Despite being abused and some near death, they have been successfully rehabilitated and have formed family units after being donated to the park.

Walking through the hummingbird garden, we then watched the diminutive feathered creatures flitting around amongst the trees and bushes while making our way to the serpentarium which showcases 30 of the most beautiful, yet deadly snakes of Costa Rica.  Here, we were able to view, up close and personal, boa constrictors, bushmasters, vipers and even the colorful yet venomous sea snake found off the Pacific Coast of the country.

The next exhibit displayed most of the six species of endangered Central American cats, including jaguars, pumas and ocelots which were placed in the care of the park after the Costa Rican Ministry of the Environment lost funding and the animals were unable to be released into the wild.  These animals reside in glass enclosures and can be viewed at close range.  Though beautiful to see at such a close distance, both my son and I were dismayed to see the jaguars pacing the cage continually…very sad to be in such close range to an area where they should be able to live free.

After departing the cat enclosures, we made our way to the orchid and frog exhibits.  The orchids were quite beautiful, but the frogs definitely stole the show.  In the humid ranarium, there are many species of native frogs that are allowed to roam (or hop) freely.  Here, you can find the Blue Jeans Poison Dart Frog, Caribbean Striped Poison Dart Frog, the Bullfrog and everyone’s favorite, the Red-Eyed Leaf Frog which looks very different while at rest.  When sleeping, the frog looks like a fat, green lump.  When awake, it is one of the most intriguing amphibians with its bright red, bulging eyes and red palms and soles.

Before moving on, make sure to visit Casita de la Paz, a farmhouse reproduction built using tools available to the average farmer a century ago.  See how water was collected and heated within the home, how the farmer would have lived within the home and two oxcarts, colorful vehicles used to transport coffee beans from Costa Rica’s central valley over the mountains to the Pacific coast.  Keep an eye out for the friendly mapaches, Costa Rica’s raccoon, that run around, and sometimes through, the cabin.

Finally, we were ready to hit the trails and make our way to the five waterfalls located in the park.  Well constructed viewing platforms allow for amazing photo opportunities and a cooling, mist shower whether you need it or not!  The Trail of Falls allows visitors to see five different cascades via trails and metal staircases following the Rio La Paz as it flows almost 5,000 feet down the slopes of the Poas Volcano.  The first waterfall, El Templo, plunges 104 feet into a pool of clear water surrounded by lush tropical vegetation.  Magia Blanca (White Magic), the tallest of the five, descends 131 feet and you can observe it from above and below the drop-off.  Continuing downriver, you can gaze upon Escantada (65 feet) and the much smaller, Escondido Falls.  The final deluge can be seen from the park, however, to get the full effect, it is best viewed from the end of the trail, walking along the highway (or drive the short distance upon departure from the park).  After all that climbing, if you are not up to returning the way you came (and my shaky legs were not), you can descend 400 steps to the gift shop and bus stop where a free shuttle bus is provided by the Gardens that takes you back to the reception area.

Usually, I am not a fan of attraction gift shops, but take some time to take a look at the Boruca masks sold here.  They are quite beautiful, made of balsa and feature three dimensional carvings of animals and other creatures indigenous to Costa Rica.  The ones offered in La Paz’s gift shop were not cheap, but some of the best quality that I found in Costa Rica.  I am sure there are many other places that sell this quality, however, I decided to wait and the ones I found in La Fortuna were not up to the standards that these were.

It was the end of our day, the park was closing and the weather was deteriorating rapidly, so sadly, we had to leave.  We truly enjoyed the park and wished that we had been able to secure reservations at the Peace Lodge located on the premises.  However, traveling the winding roads, we made our way back part of the way we had traveled a few hours earlier and to Villas Callas, our home for the night.

These cabañas are located a short drive from the waterfall gardens and are very reasonably priced.  Opting for a two-story unit, with the bedroom upstairs, we found it to be modest, but comfortable, and set in a well-landscaped expanse.  Each unit contains a fully equipped kitchen, bathroom, fireplace (great for cool evenings) and bedroom.  Make sure to stop by the small food stand at the entrance to the property for some amazing empañadas and take advantage of their complimentary breakfast at the property’s restaurant.

This part of Costa Rica is very beautiful and offers mountainous views, rolling hillsides and a major tourist attraction, Poas Volcano.  Though still closed since its eruption last year, the government is hoping for a re-opening (with some implemented restrictions) later this year.

So with a full day under our belt, we shut our eyes, readying ourselves for the long drive through the mountains to La Fortuna.  Dreaming of the long trek, I wondered what we would find!

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La Paz Waterfall Gardens

  • http://www.waterfallgardens.com/index.php
  • Address:  La Paz Waterfall Gardens & The Peace Lodge, Vara Blanca, Alajuela, Costa Rica
  • Hours:  0800-1700, daily
  • Admission:  Adults, $44, Children, 3-12 years, $28, Under 3, free
  • Getting There:  Located 6 km, north, from Vara Blanca gas station

Villas Callas

The Bonus Church

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Another church?

Not having planned another stop during my afternoon in the eastern part of Milan, I was headed to an early dinner.  Coming up out of the metro stop of San Babila, I looked up and wouldn’t you know…there was a church…the Basilica of San Babila.

Did I have time to pop in?  Of course I did!  I always make time for churches, especially in Italy!

Built at the crossroads that lay at the point where the Porta Orientale (or Eastern Gateway) once stood, San Babila was once considered the third most important basilica after the Duomo and the Basilica di Sant’Ambrogio.  Dedicated to Babylas of Antioch, his relics, along with those of Romanus of Caesarea were brought from Antioch to Milan by Marolus, the bishop of Milan in the beginning of the 5th century.

The church of San Babila was built on its current site in 1095, to house these relics, and extended with additional construction at the front and a new baroque facade.  Though much of its original style has been lost during renovations, the church still retains its original medieval feel.  During the 19th century, the complex was renovated with the aim of restoring the appearance of the medieval basilica and in the early 20th century the Neo-Romanesque facade by Paolo Cesa-Bianchi was built.  The bell tower was eventually added in 1920 to replace the original tower which had fallen in the 16th century.

With the many grand churches throughout Italy, it was quite surprising when I entered, that San Babila was a very simple, mostly unadorned church.  The interior has a nave and two aisles with two side chapels that date from the late Renaissance.  Pay particular to the right aisle as it has an image of the Madonna, highly esteemed by the Milanese community.  Also particular to note are some lovely medieval frescoes, Renaissance windows and beautiful mosaics.

If traveling in this area of Milan and happen to enter or exit at the San Babila metro, take a moment to stop in and relish the quiet beauty.

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Chiesa di San Babila (The Church of San Babila)

  • http://www.santiprofeti.it/basilica-di-san-babila/
  • Address:  Corso Monforte, 1, 20122 Milano MI, Italy
  • Hours:  Saturday, 0830-1830, Sunday, 0930-1830, Monday thru Friday, 0800-1830 (not verified)
  • Admission:  free
  • Getting There:  Take the metro to the San Babila metro stop.  The church is immediately adjacent to the stop.

Caravaggio’s Church

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When seeking out San Bernardino alla Ossa in Milan, many people make the simple mistake of entering the Basilica di Santo Stefano Maggiore.

Though maybe not the intended destination, duck in for a moment and take a quick look around.

St. Stefano, is also referred to as St. Stephen in Brolo, the historical name of the area or St. Stephen’s Gate, for the port that once existed in this location.  As you approach the two churches, St. Stefano stands out with its bell tower and extravagantly carved facade.  Much more in its interior, however, should lure those who appreciate an impressive basilica and the history behind it.

Established in the 5th century, the basilica was formerly dedicated to both Saints Zechariah and Stephen, though eventually given over to the latter.  The original building was constructed around the year 417, destroyed by fire in 1070 and rebuilt in the Romanesque style in 1075.  Since 1594, many reconstructions, expansions and restoration have been completed including enlargement of the apse and the main altar, lengthening of the nave and reconstruction of the facade, reconstruction of the bell tower by architect Gerolamo Quadrio and the construction of the sacristy and the modernization of some chapels.

St. Stefano is most famous for the many saints interred within its walls, most notably, San Carlo Borromeo and for two major events that occurred in the church.   The Duke of Milan Galeazzo Maria Sforza was assassinated by four conspirators in 1476, under the medieval portico outside the church, as he visited the basilica for the celebration of the patron saint.  The remaining pillar of the portico can be viewed in front of the belltower.   Also, after years of speculation, the baptismal certificate from 1571, of the painter Michelangelo Merisi, better known as “Caravaggio”, was discovered in 2007 in the archival documents of the basilica, giving a definitive answer to the age-old question of his baptismal and birth place.

Though the basilica is very little known to tourists, it is easily accessible from the Piazza Fontana and quite impressive for its size and historical significance.  Though the church is in desperate need of renovations, there are many items worth noting on its interior.  Many of the side chapels contain beautiful and original stained glass and paintings and the altar is quite grand with its gold tabernacle.  Also, be sure to note the imposing organ, the unique statues and the beautiful vaulted ceiling.  Of particular interest is the life-sized bronze statue of Jesus on the cross, flanked by his mother and disciples, at the rear of the structure.

If the churches of Milan peak your interest, make the short walk from the Duomo area and investigate the neighboring churches of St. Stefano and San Bernardino alla Ossa.  Two different churches, connected by location and history…a sort of  “two for the price of one”, kind of deal!

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Basilica di Santo Stefano Maggiore

  • Address:  Piazza Santo Stefano 10Milan, Italy
  • Hours: Daily, 0900-1700
  • Admission:  free
  • Getting There:  Metro, Duomo stop.  Proceed along the cathedral’s southern side to the end of the square and into Piazza Fontana. Cross the piazza diagonally, across Via Verziere.

 

 

 

 

 

A Bethel of Bones

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There is a church in Milan that I’ve been wanting to visit for a very long time.

San Bernardino alle Ossa.

The bones church.

San Bernardino alla Ossa, is a church in Milan, near the Duomo, which dates back to the thirteenth century, when a hospital and a cemetery were built in front of the basilica of Santo Stefano Maggiore, located next door.  In 1210, excess bones from the cemetery needed housing so a chamber was built, next to which a church was built in 1269.

Restored in 1679 by Giovanni Andrea Biffi, the facade was modified and the walls of the ossuary were decorated with human skulls and tibiae.  When the church was destroyed in 1712, a new edifice was designed by Carlo Giuseppe Merlo and expanded to accommodate the growing interest in the ossuary.  The new church was then dedicated to St. Bernardino of Siena and completed in 1776.

Having been to both the Capuchin Crypt in Rome and the Catacombs in Paris, I was anxious to see how this compared, but I always seemed to be in Milan on Sunday when the church was closed to visitors.

Due to an irregularity in my schedule and some good luck, I happened to be in Milan on a Friday and the church was open during the afternoon.  Making my way from the Duomo metro stop, I approached the area but was a bit confused. The first thing you notice upon approach is the basilica of St. Stefano and its bell tower immediately in the forefront.  Seeing others entering the palazzo-like, unadorned building on the left, I realized that this was San Bernardino alla Ossa.

Entering the church’s vestibule, I acknowledged the Blessed Virgin and followed the corridor on the right, leading to the chapel ossuary.

The small square chapel, a breathtaking area, was originally decorated with frescoes by Sebastian Ricci, an Italian artist.  Today, you can still see his work…gaze upward at the incredible ceiling which depicts the Triumph of Souls Among Flying Angels and the glory of the four patron saints, Santa Maria Vergine, Santa Ambrogio, Santa Sebastiano and Santa Bernardino de Siena.  The rest of the chapel is adorned with an altar and a niche with the statue of Madonna Addolorata (Our Lady of Sorrows) kneeling before the body of Jesus.  Skulls and bones, believed to be the deceased from the hospital and corpses from seventeenth century cemeteries, are arranged in niches and on cornices, pillars and doors.  Some are stacked “frame-like” appearing as oversized paintings in simple shapes while others are arranged in ornamental patterns, like skull and crossbones.  The skulls that you observe in cases above the door are those of executed prisoners.

Remains interred near the altar are those of a young girl, who, according to legend, comes back to life on November 2nd, All Souls Day, and lures other skeletons in a morbid dance.

Be sure to take a seat and revel in the unique artistry of the chapel and be prepared for large tour groups entering the chapel now and again.  A sign advising against photographs is present in the hallway, however, I did not see this until I heard the caretaker telling a group of Spanish tourists that photography was not allowed.  Thankfully, I had been able to capture some stunning photos before I understood the restriction.

The church itself is not very remarkable and rather small.  An octagonal plan, it has two side chapels with baroque marble altars, with the one on the right showcasing an altarpiece by Frederico Ferrario representing “Santa Maria Maddalena in casa del fariseo” (St. Mary Magdalene in the house of the Pharisee).

However, be sure not to miss one of the most interesting aspects of this church.  The chapel on the right of the altar also houses a tomb of some descendants of Christopher Columbus’ maternal family.  You can spy the family coat of arms with the motto, “Colon diede il Nuovo Mondo alla Castiglia e al Leon” (Colon gave the New World to Castile and Leon).

The church has grown in popularity over the years and though not very well-known, it often listed in the Top Things To Do lists of Milan.  Maybe not as large as the catacombs of Paris and maybe not as ornate as the Capuchin Crypt in Rome, I do think that San Bernardino alla Ossa is by far the most intimate and most beautiful.

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San Bernardino alla Ossa