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South America…here we come!
Packing up that manila folder filled with many hours of research, bookings, reservations, tickets and general information was so final. If it wasn’t in the folder, chances were that it wasn’t going to happen.
So, unlike many other trips I have taken in the past, where I had a general plan but booked on the fly, this one had specific items that had to be booked in advance. With my husband in tow, I have to admit, I was a bit nervous about his having a good time and things working out as they should.
More than anything, I wanted my husband to enjoy the things that I have previously experienced in Lima and experience new things together in Cusco and Machu Picchu.
After a quick six hours in the air, we were touching down in Lima and making our way through customs and immigration. Arriving at our hotel, we were pleased to find that we had been upgraded to a beautiful suite and despite the late hour, we still had time to grab a nightcap at the hotel bar.
So far, so good!
After a hearty breakfast the next morning, we headed out to explore the Historic Center of Lima.
San Francisco Monastery was first on our agenda. Having visited this UNESCO World Heritage site on my first visit to Lima (read about it in my post Lovely Lima), I was eager for my husband to experience its refined beauty and history. Only having to wait a short time for the next English tour, we were taken through the alluring structure which also contains a library and catacombs.
After a short walk around the Plaza Mayor…and a few selfies…we headed to the Cathedral Basilica of Lima (read about my first visit in my post Cathedral of Lima). Officially inaugurated by conquistador Francisco Pizzaro who is also entombed in the cathedral, the church incorporates a small ossuary and the Religious Art Museum of the Cathedral of Lima. Every single one of the fourteen individual chapels is worth inspection, as each seems to be more ornate and more elaborate than the other.
After a walk through some of the small markets and a glimpse at the Presidential Palace, we jumped back into a cab and headed back toward Miraflores. Traffic of course, was at its usual, almost standstill. Heading down Avenue Arequipa, we made a quick decision to stop our driver near a street heading to Huaca Pucllana (read about my first visit on my post A Peruvian Pyramid), a great adobe and clay pyramid which served as an important ceremonial and administrative center between the years of 200 and 700 AD. Luckily, an English tour was about to commence and were able to follow along, learning about the historic structure.
Finally, we headed back toward Parque Kennedy in the center of Miraflores. Walking through the park, I pointed out the Church of the Miraculous Virgin (read about my first visit in my post The Colonial Church) and City Hall. Guiding my husband toward a store, La Quinta, with tables piled high with clothing, he inquired as to whether he was going to get some of the churros that I always talk about. Yes, but first a little shopping expedition (read more about it in my blog post Shop Til You Drop)!
Not only did my husband find a great many shirts of the popular brand that he loves here at a fabulous discount, but he even went back after churros for a few more!
Eager to rest our feet and relax for a while, we found a great little restaurant with amazing Peruvian cerviche. A couple of beer later, the toll of our adventurous day was catching up. Knowing we had a full day ahead of us, it was time to enjoy our suite for a few more hours and get some shut eye.
Cusco was calling!
So, we were up early the next morning and heading even further south into Peru. Though is was an arduous task getting to the airport, even with easy Saturday traffic, the check-in process with LC Peru was quite simple and before lunchtime, we had already checked into our hotel in Cusco.
Headed down the hill behind our hotel, we soon got our first glimpses of Cusco’s main areas, the San Francisco Plaza and the beautiful Plaza de Armas flanked on the east and south by the alluring Cusco Cathedral and the Iglesia De La Compañia De Jesús and on the north and west by restaurants and shops.
The streets were busy with residents going about their Saturday business and we joined in with the errands we had to attend to. Though we enjoyed walking along the streets of Cusco and admiring the impressive colonial architecture, open spaces and occasional street art, we were seeking out the ticket office to purchase our bus tickets for Machu Picchu prior to heading to Aguas Calientes. Not realizing that we were required to bring our passports for purchase, the agent agreed to use our driver’s licenses and pictures of our passports that we both had in our phones.
Finally, with tickets in hand, we set out to accomplish the last of our tasks of the day, collecting our tickets for our Sacred Valley tour the next morning. This tour had been set up for us by a friend of a friend. As we found the office, met the agent and paid for the tour tickets, we were instructed on our pick up time in the morning and what our day would entail…lots of stops, beautiful ruins, interaction with the local people and lunch. Very excited about to hear what our upcoming day, we bid our travel agent goodbye and continued our explorations of the Plaza de Armas, culminating with a scrumptious, Peruvian dinner.
Now, I am adventurous eater, but my husband is not. There are two things that I wanted to try in Peru and alpaca was one of them. After deciding on one of the many restaurants in the square, we found a nice, little place, overlooking the beautiful plaza and ordered this unique entree. Believe it or not, my husband decided to join me on my quest to try something new! Though we found it not to be as tasty as we thought, we were glad we had a new experience under our belt. One of many to come in the next few days!
After much planning and travel, it was time! Our Machu Picchu adventure was just beginning!
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San Francisco Monastery
- http://museocatacumbas.com/
- Address: Jirón Lampa, Cercado de Lima 15001, Peru
- Hours: 0900-2015, daily
- Admission: Adults, S / 15.00 (about $4.46 US), Students, S / 8.00 (about $2.38 US), Children, S / 3.00 (about $0.89 US)
Cathedral Basilica of Lima
- https://arzobispadodelima.org/
- Address: Jirón Carabaya, Cercado de Lima 15001, Peru
- Hours: 0900-1700, Monday-Friday, 0900-1200, Saturday, 1300-1700, Sunday
- Admission: General, S / 10.00 (about $3.00 US)
Huaca Pucllana
- http://huacapucllanamiraflores.pe/
- Address: cuadra S/n, Calle General Borgoño 8, Miraflores, Peru
- Hours: 0900-1700, daily
- Admission: Adults, S / 12.00 (about $3.57 US), Children Under 12, Students and Teachers, S / 6.00 (about $1.79 US)
LC Peru
Machu Picchu Bus Tickets-Consettur Machupicchu S.A.C.
- Address: Av. Infancia, 433, Wanchaq, Cusco
- Hours: Monday-Saturday, 0800-1245, 1500-1800, Sunday, 0800-1245
- Ticket Prices: Foreign Adult, S /24.00 return, Foreign Adult, S /12.00 single, Foreign Child, S /12.00 return, Foreign Child, S /7.00 single. Adult National, S /15.00 return, Adult National, S /8.00 single, Child National, S /8.00 return, Child National, S /5.00 single. Student National, S /10.00 return, Student National, S /6.00 single.
- Tickets can be purchased up to 7 days in advance, valid for 3 days but for 1 use only. Passports or national ID required for purchase.
Machu Picchu Bus Tickets-Inter Bank
- Address: Av. El Sol, 380, Cusco
- Hours: Monday-Friday, 0900-1300, 1400-1800, Saturday, 0900-1300
- Ticket Prices: Foreign Adult, S /24.00 return, Foreign Adult, S /12.00 single, Foreign Child, S /12.00 return, Foreign Child, S /7.00 single. Adult National, S /15.00 return, Adult National, S /8.00 single, Child National, S /8.00 return, Child National, S /5.00 single. Student National, S /10.00 return, Student National, S /6.00 single.
- Tickets can be purchased up to 7 days in advance, valid for 3 days but for 1 use only. Passports or national ID required for purchase.
Machu Picchu Bus Tickets-Aguas Calientes (Bus Stop)
- Address: Av. Hermanos Ayar S/N
- Hours: Monday-Sunday, 0500-2100
- Ticket Prices: Foreign Adult, S /24.00 return, Foreign Adult, S /12.00 single, Foreign Child, S /12.00 return, Foreign Child, S /7.00 single. Adult National, S /15.00 return, Adult National, S /8.00 single, Child National, S /8.00 return, Child National, S /5.00 single. Student National, S /10.00 return, Student National, S /6.00 single.
- Tickets can be purchased up to 7 days in advance, valid for 3 days but for 1 use only. Passports or national ID required for purchase.
Machu Picchu Bus Tickets-Machu Picchu
- Address: Bus Stop
- Hours: Monday-Friday, 0730-1730
- Ticket Prices: Foreign Adult, S /24.00 return, Foreign Adult, S /12.00 single, Foreign Child, S /12.00 return, Foreign Child, S /7.00 single. Adult National, S /15.00 return, Adult National, S /8.00 single, Child National, S /8.00 return, Child National, S /5.00 single. Student National, S /10.00 return, Student National, S /6.00 single.
- Tickets can be purchased up to 7 days in advance, valid for 3 days but for 1 use only. Passports or national ID required for purchase.
For the past few years, I have enviously swiped through my friend’s Facebook posts about their sojourns to Machu Picchu. Spying them perched on the mountainside with the picturesque citadel spread out below them…and the occasional llama or two…I envisioned myself there one day.
LATAM? Avianca? Star Peru? Peruvian? LC Peru? Viva Air Peru?
Second order of business…getting to Aguas Calientes. The Peru Rail website was pretty straightforward and we decided that we would travel from Cusco Poroy station to Aguas Calientes, instead of from Ollantaytambo, which required a lengthy taxi or bus ride. Pricing wasn’t much different and we would leave early, arriving around 11:00 am. After selecting our options, the website made a reservation and charged my credit card, however, it did not generate tickets. I knew something was off but not sure what the problem was. After two phone calls to Peru, I finally found someone at Peru Rail who could help. Six hours later, many emails back and forth, plus the submittal of information requested, we finally had tickets. A refund for the first charges was processed about a week later.
Next, we needed a hotel room in Aguas Calientes. There are many options from hostels to high-end spas. After perusing different choices on Agoda, I decided that with so little time at the hotel, it was not prudent to spend a great deal for one night. Deciding on a mid-grade room, this was booked and paid for.
Figuring out what to pack was much tougher than I expected and I spent many days, shopping and then returning items that I ultimately decided were not what the trip required. The weather seemed to change on a dime and everyone uttered those words I hate, “bring layers”. The weather forecast even gave the type of temperatures that I hate, “60s”! 60 in the sun, can be totally different than 60 in the shade!
Walking along the Via del Quirinale, I noticed a church on my left. Noticing people entering, I decided to take a look inside.
The Chapel of the Passion, has three canvases with scenes from the Passion of Jesus Christ by Giacinto Brandi and the chapel to the left of the altar, The Chapel of Saint Stanislaus Kostka, houses the shrine of the saint, a bronze and lapis lazuli urn and a painting of the Madonna With Child and Saint Stanislaus Kostka. Make sure to check out the ceiling fresco by Govanni Odazzi.
Many other intricately carved statues grace the pediments above the chapels and the domed ceiling is centered with an oculus allowing the church to be lighted naturally. Bringing my attention to the floor, I was entranced by the amazing inlaid mosaics which mirrors the elliptical dome overhead. Bernini did not want large funerary monuments within the church to ruin the architectural lines, so the mosaics mark the grave of those such as Cardinal Giambattista Spinola.
Paying the sacristan on duty, I was then directed me up a stairway. Entering a small room, I discovered paintings and information about Saint Stanislaus Kostka. As I walked into the rooms that the saint spent his final years, what caught my eye…and actually, caught me a bit off guard…was a life-size marble statue depicting the dying saint, designed by Pierre Legros. Portrayed at the age of 18, the saint rests on a marble bed and holds in one hand, a small framed image of the Virgin Mary and a real rosary in the other. Surrounded by paintings from his life, the Baroque decor is even more engaging, painted deep red and trimmed in an abundance of gold.
Relics belonging to the saint are displayed in a case the left and two altars fill the wall spaces. The rooms were so mesmerizing and yet so intimate, not something you get to experience in the normal course of a church visit.
Finally, as my visit was drawing to a close, I took one more round in the church and then stepped outside to take a better look at the exterior. A simple beauty, marked by a semicircular porch with two Ionic columns invites visitors in to its exaggerated beauty on the inside.
Massive crowds fill the interior every day seeking to inspect this architectural phenomenon. Though classified as a temple, it is unknown how worship was conducted here as it is quite different from many other ancient Roman temples. Today, though, many take a seat near the altar, head bowed in prayer and contemplation…appropriate as its inception as a church when Byzantine emperor Phocas bequeathed it to Pope Boniface IV in AD 608.
Interspersed between the bays are the tombs of many famous figures from Italian history…painters Raphael and Annibale Carracci, composer, Arcangelo Corelli and architect Baldassare Peruzzi as well as the Italian kings, Vittorio Emanuele II and Umberto I. There are also many paintings that adorn the walls, the best known being the Annunication by Melozzo da Forli.
After my visit was complete, I stepped out into the piazza to take a better look at the fabulous temple from afar. The crowds were probably as thick here as they were inside, however, I was able to step up onto the raised platform that surrounded the amazing fountain that holds court in the center of the square.
If you are on your way to the Piazza Navona, or just in the area, step inside to see this incredible architectural gem and then have a seat around the beautiful fountain. Grab a gelato or a drink and relax for a while.
Entering the complex near the Arch of Titus, we discovered many paths throughout to survey the area in its entirety, encompassing the two basilicas, Fulvia Aemilia, a 100 meter public hall with a two-story porticoed facade dating back to 179 BC and Basilica Julia, built by Julius Caesar on the site of Basilica Sempronia in 54 BC. The Tempio di Antonino e Faustina, erected in AD 141 and transformed into a church in the 8th century (Chiesa di San Lorenzo in Miranda) and the Temple of Romulus are two of the most intact buildings on the premises. Near the Temple of Romulus, you will find the Basilica of Maxentius, the largest building on the forum, originally measuring 100 meters by 65 meters.
Also on the Via Sacra, we discovered the Casa delle Vestali, the home of the virgins who tended the sacred flame in the Tempio di Vesta. These priestesses, aged between six and ten years, were selected from aristocratic families to serve in the temple for thirty years. So great was the responsibility of keeping both the flame and their virginity intact that the penalty of flogging and/or death was imposed for those who did not adhere to the orders. The statues which honor these virgins line the Via Sacra and though most are in good condition, a many are missing their heads.
At the end of the Via Sacra, we came upon the Arco di Settimio Severo, a 23 meter high structure, built in AD 203 and dedicated to the emperor and his two sons, Caracalla and Geta. The arch commemorated the Roman victory over the Parthians.
The remains of the Rostri could be seen in front of the arch. This elaborate podium was the site of Mark Antony’s famous, “Friends, Romans and countrymen…” speech. Facing the Rostri is the Colonna di Foca (Column of Phocus) which fronts what once was the Forum’s main square.
Palatine Hill is connected to the Forum and at the center of the seven hills of Rome. Standing above the Forum, it was once the place where Imperial palaces were built. Heading uphill, we made our way through the grounds.
The Houses of Augustus and Livia, are still standing and in good condition and house some impressive art and frescoes. Tours of both of these impressive structures are available, however, advance tickets were required and we were not in possession. If you can secure them ahead of time, it is worth the effort in order to check out Augustus’ private study.
The Palatine Museum is also open to the public and contains a display of Roman statuary and findings from the hippodrome, however, being the end of our day, we decided that this would have to wait until another visit.
Having been to this architectural phenomenon at least five or six times, I never tire of seeing its structural prowess which has withstood the elements for so many years. I enjoy meandering through the passageways and gazing out on the arena which was the site of much action in its early years.
The Colosseum is the largest amphitheater in the world, measuring 186 meters long, 156 meters wide and 50 meters high!
There were three stories, each containing columns of a different style. The bottom columns were from the simple Doric order, the center, Ionic and the top, Corinthian. 
The emperor’s enjoyed the entertainment so much that they not only organized the events but also paid for them, allowing for the free entry of those desiring to attend. By also providing food, they ensured their popularity and support.
Emperor Vespasian’s son, Titus, was the first to hold games to commemorate the completion of the Colosseum. These games continued for 100 days. Gladiatorial games continued until the fifth century and animal hunts until the sixth.
Those with weak constitutions were not encouraged to attend as many events were quite brutal. During certain games held by the emperors, around 10,000 animals were killed in a single day.
A large number of rooms and underground passages were located beneath the Colosseum. Here, gladiators and animals waited to meet their fate. There were also thirty-six trap doors which could be used for special effects. 
Restoration efforts began in the 1990s and can still be seen continuing today. Funding from the admittance of thousands of visitors each year allow for the preservation of this mighty monument.
There is a ticket booth within the Colosseum, however, you can avoid waiting in line twice, once for the ticket purchase and once for entry. A new ticket office has been opened across from the Colosseum and alongside the entrance to the Roman Forum. After purchasing ticket, make sure to enter the line for entrance at the Colosseum. Tickets can also be purchased online and and by telephone.
Happy birthday to me…
Finally, a boat docked on the banks and we were given life vests and ushered down into the waiting vessel. Motoring along the calm, shallow waters, its banks lined with the local flora and fauna, I couldn’t keep the smile off of my face. This was truly an adventure!
A beautiful waterfall.
Swimming in the refreshing, cold, clear water with my son, I was elated that this was how I was able to start my day…enjoying nature at its most beautiful.
The villagers, dressed in their handwoven and metal, embellished cloths danced together, sometimes only the women and sometimes joined by the men.
The best was yet to come.
After a visit to the kitchen hut, where we watched the women preparing food for the day, we were treated to a meal of locally caught, fresh, fried fish and fruit. We then browsed the vast selection of items crafted by the tribe members…baskets, fabrics, jewelry, plates and masks…while watching the younger members of the tribe play under the tables and outside in the puddles. Here, you can also have a non-permanent tattoo applied to your skin and watch some of the finest basket makers in the world as they work to create intricate all sizes of baskets with intricate patterns from palm leaves and natural pigments.
The rain was still coming down, though not as hard, and it was time to head down to the boat and back to our origination point. The beauty of the region was not lost on us, regardless of the weather, but the usual sights of sloth’s, monkeys, toucans and eagles would not be had on this day.
As we were dropped off at the Plaza de la Independencia, where the country’s independence from Spain and Columbia was celebrated, I glanced around at the fine architectural details present on most of the buildings. The Casco Viejo (Spanish for Old Town) is filled with peaceful, shady plazas, wrought iron balconies, aged, brightly colored doorways and a myriad of churches.
After inspecting the dignified busts of Panama’s founding fathers, scattered throughout the square, we glanced around, not sure how to tackle the many narrow streets and plazas beckoning to my touristic nature. Heading toward the waterfront, we occasionally stopped to peruse the many souvenir shops filled with masks, pareos, outdated Panama license plates and of course, Panama hats.
The waterfront promenade offered some amazing views of the city’s impressive skyline as well as of the Cinta Costera, the viaduct that encircles the historic and governmental district of Casco Viejo, a controversial project which was built to solve the traffic nightmares without disturbing the historic neighborhood.
Grabbing a snow-cone from one of the local vendors, we sat on a park bench and savored the balmy temperatures while enjoying our chilly treat.
While my main desire was to visit La Catedral Metropolitana, the main, Catholic temple in Panama City, we found it to be under a massive renovation. The San Francisco de Asis Church was only a couple of blocks away and we decided to step in. One of the original structures from Casco Viejo, the church was nearly destroyed by fire in 1737 and 1756. Restored in 1998, it was more modern than I anticipated but presented vibrant stained glass, marble throughout and a beautiful, mosaic behind the altar.
Many restaurants and bars grace the streets in the Old Town and finding a tasty place to eat is not hard to do. In fact, nighttime, is a festive affair and should not be missed when visiting the city, even if not staying in one of the area’s many hotels and hostels.
Finally, we made our way back to Plaza de la Independencia. Taking a seat on one of the many shady, seating areas, we rested our weary feet, admiring the scenes around us. Besides the other camera touting tourists, the square attracts a large number of locals who come to interact with each other and children who use the tranquil area to play.
Once our entrance fee was paid, we were directed upstairs to the upper observation terrace. As we exited the doors onto the pavilion, luck would have it that a ship was passing through the locks!
After the final lock, the Atacama Queen sailed off under the Centennial Bridge and into Lake Miraflores for the next phase of its journey.
The Hall of Water: Source of Life highlights the importance of water, the conservation of the environment and biodiversity, protection of the Canal Watershed and the commitment to the sustainable management of resources.
Operation of the Canal is spotlighted in The Canal in Action. Here you can experience what it is like to guide a boat through a lock culvert in one of the navigation simulators. Canal improvement, modernization and maintenance projects are also the focus of this exhibit.
Information on the importance of the Canal to world trade is the center of the information presented in The Canal in the World. Descriptions of the trade routes served by the Canal and its main users, the vessels that transit the waterway and the commodities they carry and the future competitiveness of the Canal and how the Republic of Panama will benefit can be learned about here.
After our tour of the exhibition halls was complete, we stepped out on the two lower observation terraces for a more intimate look at the now-empty lock and the picturesque, white-washed building resting on the other side of the canal. On the second floor, we discovered stadium seating…seating I wish we had known about as the Atacama passed through earlier. Looking off into the distance, we scoured the horizon, hoping for another freighter or even a cruise ship.
“No thanks.” We opted to wait.
One of the selling points of this tour was how muddy everyone was going to get…it was recommended that you not do the tour if you can’t give yourself to the idea of being covered in muck! They went on to elaborate on how refreshing the cave swim would be after the spattered adventure. I guess it hadn’t rained in a while, because the only mud puddles I saw were near the shower area at the starting point. The real problem was the dust. Bandannas or something to cover your nose and mouth was recommended (they even sell them if you forget), but what you really need are goggles. As a contact lens wearer, I spent most of the ride squinting as I tried to keep the dust of my eyes or wiping the tears flowing down my cheeks from the pain of the dust abrading my cornea under my lenses. Thankfully, I had relinquished all driving rights to my oldest son.
Once the presentation was complete, more driving ensued until we arrived at the part of the tour that promised a swim in a picturesque cave. A large grouping of buildings hawking food and souvenirs lined either side of the stairs to the cave and many buggies were parked here. By the different types of vehicles, it was quite evident that many different companies come to this location.
As we approached the stairway, we were taken aback by how many other people were trying to make their way to the cave. Finally reaching the entry to the small body of water, we noticed that people were being instructed to jump into the cool water and immediately make their way to the guide rope leading to the water’s exit.
Let’s just say, I’m glad I stayed out of the water and kept an eye on the boys’ belongings. That was really not worth getting wet.
Finally, noticing our guide’s summons, we reluctantly toweled off and jumped back into our buggies. Crossing the highway once again, we made our way back to the companies headquarters.
While it was nice to be able to enjoy a different aspect of Punta Cana, there are many other companies which offer Buggy adventures. Our dune buggies were in poor working order, seatbelts not connected, bald tires and buggies being hot-wired in order to start them. While parked at the cave location, I was able to inspect other company’s vehicles and while in short supply, there were others in much better condition. Still, while I was happy to venture out from our resort for a while, I would think twice about partaking in this type of adventure.