In The Valley of the Andes

© 2018 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Between the towns of Pisac and Ollantaytambo, parallel to the river Vilcanota, lies the Sacred Valley.

Composed of many rivers flowing down gullies and valleys, the land is rich and fertile and was highly prized by the Inca people.   Today, it is highly prized for the tourism it attracts, due to the large number of archaeological monuments, and is home to many indigenous people.

After a filling breakfast and one last glance through our packs to make sure we had everything for an extended day, we sat, patiently waiting to be picked up for our tour.  After fifteen minutes past the time we had been told and much speculation that we had been forgotten, a small lady walked into the lobby of our hotel asking for someone with the first name of my husband but with a different last name.  We walked over, thinking we didn’t understand her accent and identified ourselves, showing her our receipt.

“Let’s go.”

“But wait, the tour was in my name, not my husband’s and that’s not his last name,” I insisted as I glanced down at her paperwork attached to her clipboard.

“Yes, this is you.  Let’s go.”

Go where?  We were certain this lady had the wrong couple and who knew where we were heading.

Following her a short distance to a parking area next to the city bus stop, we found a large bus parked there and once again, insisted that we may be the wrong couple.  As we were ushered onto the bus, they seemed pretty confident that they had indeed, not made a mistake.

A quick glance at everyone already on board, did not instill any confidence…they all appeared to be Peruvian and suddenly, I was thinking that we were on a city bus.  As the bus pulled away from the stop, we laughed, thinking of how absurd this all seemed and where we might actually wind up.

Well, we, of so little faith, were completely wrong.  We were on the correct bus as was confirmed by our guide who began to describe our day.

Our first stop would be Chinchero, where we would purchase our partial ticket for the sites we would visit.  From there, we would continue on to Maras, Moray and then Urubamba for lunch.  In Ollantaytambo, we would visit the ancient fortress where we would tackle more than 200 steps to reach the summit.  From here, we would continue on to our final stops, Pisac, its citadel and finally, its market.

Almost an hour later, after watching the lush green landscape speed by, locals going about their everyday business, adobe homes and hundreds of political advertisements marring fences and buildings and soliciting votes for the next election, we pulled up to a small hill in the town of Chinchero.

Bracing myself for the lack of oxygen required for the climb, we followed our guide and the rest of the Pachamama Group (Mother Earth), as we were now known.  Tickets purchased and validated, we were led up another hill past a small market offering colorful blankets, hats and trinkets to a plaza in front of a beautiful adobe church.

Though we were only able to inspect the church’s exterior, we learned that it was constructed in 1607 by the Spanish on the site of an Incan palace, believed to be that of Inca Tupac Tupanqui.  The interior was described to be quite lovely with ornate painted ceilings and Catholic and traditional motifs.

Moving on to the open area past the church, we gazed out onto the beautiful, green, mountainous landscape and the fertile terraces and aqueducts, many still in use today.  Produce grown on the land includes potatoes, olluco, oca, quinoa and fava beans and are sold at the local market.  The ruins of the summer palace of Tupac Tupanqui can still be seen spilling down the hillside with splendid stonework and a stone throne with intricate carvings.

The day was beautiful and we were able to capture some stunning photographs, the first of many of the day.

After boarding our bus, we headed a short distance down the road into the center of Chinchero.  Home to the Interpretation Center of Andean Textiles, the traditionally dressed women of the village offer weaving demonstrations to visitors, describing the age-old methods of making colors for the wool, and how the wool is washed, dyed and spun.

The young woman giving our demonstration was informative and funny and we enjoyed learning about how the many products we had seen so far on our travels were made.  As she talked, it was hard not to glance around at the beautiful colors and interior of the structure we were in.  Most intriguing was a small house with balconies situated behind the woman.  Guinea pigs ran in and out of the doorways and peered out at the crowd, paws resting on the balcony railings.  Though its no secret that guinea pig is considered a delicacy in Peru, one I had planned to try at some point, it was both quite amusing and yet, disturbing to see them in their last resting place.

After a vibrantly woven hat caught my eye, I made a deal with one of the young men working on the premises and then exited to the bus for our next stop, Moray.

Located about 27 kilometers from Chinchero, Moray, is believed to have been used as an agricultural laboratory by the Incas.  Though not much more is known, there is speculation that the amphitheater-looking, circular, terraced depressions were used to test and experiment with crops.  With temperature differences at each level of the terraces of 15 degrees Celsius, it is believed that each level was used to grow different crops and to test hybridization.  Possibly, the many variations of potato grown in Peru originated at Moray.

As we stood looking out on the depressions and listening to our tour guide, it was awesome to think how advanced this civilization was.  Traversing the paths around the terraces, we learned that parts of the terraces were completely original and some had been restored.  Standing in front of one of the oldest depressions, we posed for pictures with the stunning Andes mountains behind us.

As our bus drove around the site and waited for us to make our way up the rocky, dusty path, we learned that our next stop would be Maras, another terraced area, but this one with a different purpose.

Salt.

Driving the winding, narrow road through the mountains, we occasionally pulled to the side to allow other buses and vans to pass.  Looking out of the right window, a sea of white spread out in the valley below us, a striking sight amidst the brown, coarse scrub.  Maras Salt ponds.

Though salt ponds are usually found on coastal plains, the mountain range we were traversing was once part of the ocean floor.  As movement of the tectonic plates pushed the seabed up to form the Andes, the sea salt was locked into the rocks and subsequently pushed to the surface through the many springs that flow through the rocks.  The ponds were created long before the Incas, however, who were known for most of the construction in this amazing valley.

Roughly 5,000 ponds, each about four meters in size and 30 centimeters deep, are staggered down the valley.  Spring water is fed into the ponds and when full, left to evaporate.  When the water has crusted over, the salt is scraped from the top, placed in a basket and allowed to drain.

The mineral-rich (magnesium, iron, calcium and zinc) salt is said to have healing properties and claim to help reduce stress and prevent conditions such as anemia and osteoporosis, in addition to being handy in the kitchen.

The one thing we found extremely interesting was that each of the salt ponds belong to a local family with the size relative to the size of the family.  Some are not in use and all are always handed down to the next generation, never outsiders.

Continuing our journey in the mid-day, it was time to head to Urubamba and our lunch.  Our group was divided into three and we were all dropped off at different restaurants, though I am not sure what differentiated us into these groups, guessing that it may have been the price we paid for each of our tours.  My husband and I and two other couples were deposited at Inka’s House, a large buffet-style restaurant.  The food was good at our lunch spot, though others claimed their restaurant was not very good.

Ollantaytambo, our next destination, is located at the northern end of the Sacred Valley.  Often known by tourists as a common starting point for the Inca trail, it is also a boarding point for trains to Aguas Calientes and Machu Picchu.

We had been warned about the many steps we had to climb at the Ollantaytambo Fortress and now it was time to pay the piper.  Since I was having trouble breathing after a couple of flights of stairs, how in the world was I going to make it to the top?

In the 15th century, Inca Pachacutec began construction of terraces for farming and an irrigation system.  These terrace make up the Ollantaytambo Fortress which was once used for religious purposes and was then the site of a major battle in which resulted in Spanish defeat.  The fortress was then later captured by Francisco Pizarro and his men.

As I began the arduous task of making my way to the top, I decided to revel in the climb and enjoy the view every time I had to stop for a breath.  Slowly, I climbed, joining forces with another woman, who also insisted she couldn’t make it to the top.  With much encouragement for each other, I finally caught up to my husband to the entrance to the temple complex, a short distance from the top.

The Temple of the Sun, an incomplete holy place holds the Wall of the Six Monoliths with its 50 ton stones and is the sight where all the tourists want to take their picture, showing the completion of their ascent.  The temple was used as a calendar with its sun dials and other features.

As we moved away from the temple, we made our way to the Balcon Pata, a pathway leading to two large buildings.  From here, we then made our way back down to the ceremonial area of the fortress.  Looking across the valley, we could see the remains of old crop storehouses built by the Incas.  Following the ridge-line, our guide pointed out the shape of a face….Wiracocha, a deity believed to be the creator of all.  The area is accessible, however, very steep and much time is to be allowed for the full climb with beautiful views across the valley to the fortress.

Exiting the fortress area, we made our way through the Mercado Turistico.  Taking a quick glance around, it was a colorful affair and we wished that time was included in our itinerary to browse the vendor’s stalls.  Quickly grabbing two waters, we fought the crowds to keep up with our group and make our way back to our bus.  Once on board, we discovered a few empty seats.  No, we hadn’t lost anyone on the mountain, some of our group left us at this point to catch the train to Aguas Calientes, beginning their sojourn to Machu Picchu.

Making our way out of town, we headed up into the mountains.  Our guide explained that since the gates to Pisac close at 4:00, we had to drive rather quickly in order to enter.  Watching the clock closely as the day was coming to a close, we finally arrived with minutes to spare.  Making our way to the parking area, we exited the bus an followed our guide up the terraced hillside to the citadel which sits at 9,751 feet, keeping watch over the village below.

The terraces here were similar to those found at Moray and thought to play the same role.  The ruins higher up, include four separate areas, P’isaqa, Inti Watana, Qalla Q’asa and Kinchiraqay and offered stellar views of the valley.  After an overview of the history by our guide, we were allowed to explore the Temple of the Sun, the remains of the buildings, including a residential settlement, several altars, water channels and ceremonial baths, as we glanced over the river at the open tombs carved into the rocky mountainside.

The wind was strong here and as the day was drawing to a close, we quickly walked through the site back to the parking lot and waiting bus, pausing to pose for a quick photo under the entrance sign.

Our last stop was in the town of Pisac, one that I had been very excited about.  I had heard great things about their famous market and looked forward to purchasing some unique souvenirs.  However, as we drove down the mountain, the sky was growing dark leading me to realize that the market would probably be closing upon our arrival.  My prediction was accurate, but we were brought to a jewelry store for a lesson on assessing the quality of silver.  Since it was communicated in Spanish, we attempted to understand, however, it was easier to browse the merchandise.

Finally, our day was drawing to a close.  As we drove the winding roads back to Cusco, our heads nodded and our eyes closed.  Yes, it was a long day, however, we had seen everything that we had set out to.  The sites of Sacred Valley was amazingly different, yet the same, all having history dating back to the Incas.  Machu Picchu is a given, but the Sacred Valley is not to be missed.

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

 

Chinchero Ruins, Church and Interpretation Center

  • Address:  Interpretation Center, Calle Albergue 5, Chinchero, Peru
  • Hours:  0800 to 1730, daily.  Market open daily 0700-1730.
  • Admission:  The partial tourist ticket or ‘Boleto Turístico’ costs S/.70 (Approx. US$25.)  Interpretation Center, 1000-1800.
  • Getting There:  Collectivos go through Chinchero to Urubamba and Ollantaytambo.  Ask driver to drop you in town, a short walk to ruins and church.

Moray

  • Hours:  0700 to 1800, daily
  • Admission:  The partial tourist ticket or ‘Boleto Turístico’ costs S/.70 (Approx. US$25.)  Interpretation Center, 1000-1800.

Maras

  • Hours:  0700 to 1800, daily
  • Admission:  The partial tourist ticket or ‘Boleto Turístico’ costs S/.70 (Approx. US$25.)  Interpretation Center, 1000-1800.

Ollantaytambo

  • Address:  Ollantaytambo
  • Hours:  0700 to 1800, daily
  • Admission:  The partial tourist ticket or ‘Boleto Turístico’ costs S/.70 (Approx. US$25.)

Pisac Archaeological Park

  • Address:  Pisac Archaeological Park, Pisac, Cusco.
  • Hours:  0700 to 1730, daily
  • Admission:  The partial tourist ticket or ‘Boleto Turístico’ costs S/.70 (Approx. US$25.)

Pisac Market

  • Hours:  0700-1700, daily.  Sundays include additional vendors.
  • Admission:  free

Flying South

© 2018 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

South America…here we come!

Packing up that manila folder filled with many hours of research, bookings, reservations, tickets and general information was so final.  If it wasn’t in the folder, chances were that it wasn’t going to happen.

So, unlike many other trips I have taken in the past, where I had a general plan but booked on the fly, this one had specific items that had to be booked in advance.   With my husband in tow, I have to admit, I was a bit nervous about his having a good time and things working out as they should.

More than anything, I wanted my husband to enjoy the things that I have previously experienced in Lima and experience new things together in Cusco and Machu Picchu.

After a quick six hours in the air, we were touching down in Lima and making our way through customs and immigration.  Arriving at our hotel, we were pleased to find that we had been upgraded to a beautiful suite and despite the late hour, we still had time to grab a nightcap at the hotel bar.

So far, so good!

After a hearty breakfast the next morning, we headed out to explore the Historic Center of Lima.

San Francisco Monastery was first on our agenda.  Having visited this UNESCO World Heritage site on my first visit to Lima (read about it in my post Lovely Lima), I was eager for my husband to experience its refined beauty and history.  Only having to wait a short time for the next English tour, we were taken through the alluring structure which also contains a library and catacombs.

After a short walk around the Plaza Mayor…and a few selfies…we headed to the Cathedral Basilica of Lima (read about my first visit in my post Cathedral of Lima).  Officially inaugurated by conquistador Francisco Pizzaro who is also entombed in the cathedral, the church incorporates a small ossuary and the Religious Art Museum of the Cathedral of Lima.  Every single one of the fourteen individual chapels is worth inspection, as each seems to be more ornate and more elaborate than the other.

After a walk through some of the small markets and a glimpse at the Presidential Palace, we jumped back into a cab and headed back toward Miraflores.  Traffic of course, was at its usual, almost standstill.  Heading down Avenue Arequipa, we made a quick decision to stop our driver near a street heading to Huaca Pucllana (read about my first visit on my post A Peruvian Pyramid), a great adobe and clay pyramid which served as an important ceremonial and administrative center between the years of 200 and 700 AD.  Luckily, an English tour was about to commence and were able to follow along, learning about the historic structure.

Finally, we headed back toward Parque Kennedy in the center of Miraflores.  Walking through the park, I pointed out the Church of the Miraculous Virgin (read about my first visit in my post The Colonial Church) and City Hall.  Guiding my husband toward a store, La Quinta, with tables piled high with clothing, he inquired as to whether he was going to get some of the churros that I always talk about.  Yes, but first a little shopping expedition (read more about it in my blog post Shop Til You Drop)!

Not only did my husband find a great many shirts of the popular brand that he loves here at a fabulous discount, but he even went back after churros for a few more!

Eager to rest our feet and relax for a while, we found a great little restaurant with amazing Peruvian cerviche.  A couple of beer later, the toll of our adventurous day was catching up.  Knowing we had a full day ahead of us, it was time to enjoy our suite for a few more hours and get some shut eye.

Cusco was calling!

So, we were up early the next morning and heading even further south into Peru.  Though is was an arduous task getting to the airport, even with easy Saturday traffic, the check-in process with LC Peru was quite simple and before lunchtime, we had already checked into our hotel in Cusco.

Headed down the hill behind our hotel, we soon got our first glimpses of Cusco’s main areas, the San Francisco Plaza and the beautiful Plaza de Armas flanked on the east and south by the alluring Cusco Cathedral and the Iglesia De La Compañia De Jesús and on the north and west by restaurants and shops.

The streets were busy with residents going about their Saturday business and we joined in with the errands we had to attend to.  Though we enjoyed walking along the streets of Cusco and admiring the impressive colonial architecture, open spaces and occasional street art, we were seeking out the ticket office to purchase our bus tickets for Machu Picchu prior to heading to Aguas Calientes.  Not realizing that we were required to bring our passports for purchase, the agent agreed to use our driver’s licenses and pictures of our passports that we both had in our phones.

 

Finally, with tickets in hand, we set out to accomplish the last of our tasks of the day, collecting our tickets for our Sacred Valley tour the next morning.  This tour had been set up for us by a friend of a friend.  As we found the office, met the agent and paid for the tour tickets, we were instructed on our pick up time in the morning and what our day would entail…lots of stops, beautiful ruins, interaction with the local people and lunch.  Very excited about to hear what our upcoming day, we bid our travel agent goodbye and continued our explorations of the Plaza de Armas, culminating with a scrumptious, Peruvian dinner.

Now, I am adventurous eater, but my husband is not.  There are two things that I wanted to try in Peru and alpaca was one of them.  After deciding on one of the many restaurants in the square, we found a nice, little place, overlooking the beautiful plaza and ordered this unique entree.  Believe it or not, my husband decided to join me on my quest to try something new!  Though we found it not to be as tasty as we thought, we were glad we had a new experience under our belt.  One of many to come in the next few days!

After much planning and travel, it was time!  Our Machu Picchu adventure was just beginning!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

 

San Francisco Monastery

  • http://museocatacumbas.com/
  • Address:  Jirón Lampa, Cercado de Lima 15001, Peru
  • Hours:  0900-2015, daily
  • Admission:  Adults, S / 15.00 (about $4.46 US), Students, S / 8.00 (about $2.38 US), Children, S / 3.00 (about $0.89 US)

Cathedral Basilica of Lima

  • https://arzobispadodelima.org/
  • Address:   Jirón Carabaya, Cercado de Lima 15001, Peru
  • Hours: 0900-1700, Monday-Friday, 0900-1200, Saturday, 1300-1700, Sunday
  • Admission:  General, S / 10.00 (about $3.00 US)

Huaca Pucllana

  • http://huacapucllanamiraflores.pe/
  • Address:  cuadra S/n, Calle General Borgoño 8, Miraflores, Peru
  • Hours:  0900-1700, daily
  • Admission:  Adults, S / 12.00 (about $3.57 US), Children Under 12, Students and Teachers,  S / 6.00 (about $1.79 US)

LC Peru

Machu Picchu Bus Tickets-Consettur Machupicchu S.A.C. 

  • Address:  Av. Infancia, 433, Wanchaq, Cusco
  • Hours:  Monday-Saturday, 0800-1245, 1500-1800, Sunday, 0800-1245
  • Ticket Prices:  Foreign Adult, S /24.00 return, Foreign Adult, S /12.00 single, Foreign Child, S /12.00 return, Foreign Child, S /7.00 single.  Adult National, S /15.00 return, Adult National, S /8.00 single, Child National, S /8.00 return, Child National, S /5.00 single. Student National, S /10.00 return, Student National, S /6.00 single.
  • Tickets can be purchased up to 7 days in advance, valid for 3 days but for 1 use only.  Passports or national ID required for purchase.

Machu Picchu Bus Tickets-Inter Bank

  • Address:  Av. El Sol, 380, Cusco
  • Hours:  Monday-Friday, 0900-1300, 1400-1800, Saturday, 0900-1300
  • Ticket Prices:  Foreign Adult, S /24.00 return, Foreign Adult, S /12.00 single, Foreign Child, S /12.00 return, Foreign Child, S /7.00 single.  Adult National, S /15.00 return, Adult National, S /8.00 single, Child National, S /8.00 return, Child National, S /5.00 single. Student National, S /10.00 return, Student National, S /6.00 single.
  • Tickets can be purchased up to 7 days in advance, valid for 3 days but for 1 use only.  Passports or national ID required for purchase.

Machu Picchu Bus Tickets-Aguas Calientes (Bus Stop)

  • Address:  Av. Hermanos Ayar S/N
  • Hours:  Monday-Sunday, 0500-2100
  • Ticket Prices:  Foreign Adult, S /24.00 return, Foreign Adult, S /12.00 single, Foreign Child, S /12.00 return, Foreign Child, S /7.00 single.  Adult National, S /15.00 return, Adult National, S /8.00 single, Child National, S /8.00 return, Child National, S /5.00 single. Student National, S /10.00 return, Student National, S /6.00 single.
  • Tickets can be purchased up to 7 days in advance, valid for 3 days but for 1 use only.  Passports or national ID required for purchase.

Machu Picchu Bus Tickets-Machu Picchu

  • Address:  Bus Stop
  • Hours:  Monday-Friday, 0730-1730
  • Ticket Prices:  Foreign Adult, S /24.00 return, Foreign Adult, S /12.00 single, Foreign Child, S /12.00 return, Foreign Child, S /7.00 single.  Adult National, S /15.00 return, Adult National, S /8.00 single, Child National, S /8.00 return, Child National, S /5.00 single. Student National, S /10.00 return, Student National, S /6.00 single.
  • Tickets can be purchased up to 7 days in advance, valid for 3 days but for 1 use only.  Passports or national ID required for purchase.

So You Want To Go To Machu Picchu?

© 2018 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

For the past few years, I have enviously swiped through my friend’s Facebook posts about their sojourns to Machu Picchu.  Spying them perched on the mountainside with the picturesque citadel spread out below them…and the occasional llama or two…I envisioned myself there one day.

The destination has been on my bucket list for some time, yet I hadn’t quite made it a priority…the planning, alone, seemed extremely overwhelming!

And it was.

Sure, you can call up a tour company and have it all done for you.  Thing was, I wasn’t interested in doing one of the multi-day Inca trail treks that many people envision to be the sole way to navigate their way to the 15th century citadel.  Mainly, I think I am smart enough to realize that:

a) I am not 25 anymore.

b) I had a back injury last year.

c) Who knows how I will react to the altitude once I am there.

d) There are easier ways to reach the destination that do not involve not having a shower for four days.

After reading up on many ways to experience the country and the journey, I decided,  “I can do this on my own.”

Well…the planning anyway…my husband was coming along!

Making a list, I prioritized what needed to be done and there were SO MANY options!  I was, indeed, overwhelmed and didn’t know where to start.  Finally, approaching the task with the mindset of booking things in the order that made the most sense, I created a folder…no, not on my computer…the old fashioned way.

I grabbed a manila folder and wrote Machu Picchu on the front.

Now I had a place where, I could place printed confirmations, tickets and additional information.  Believe me, this worked best as later in the trip, I would have to pull out many of the hard-copies for various reasons.

After choosing our total length of stay and booking our flight to Lima, we had some important decisions to make.

With a flight arriving at almost midnight, should we hang out in the airport for a few hours and catch the one of the first flights to Cusco the next morning?  Spend time in Lima on the way home?  Spend the first two nights in Lima, with sightseeing and then head to Cusco?  No time in Lima?

After going back and forth, I decided that my husband needed to see some sights in Lima and of course, have some of the famous churros at Manolo’s.

Booking two nights in Lima was first on the list.  Having been to Lima before, I knew that we wanted to stay in the Miraflores area.  My husband is also a status member of a major hotel chain, so that choice was easy.

Next, came the booking of our Cusco flight.  There are quite a few airlines that fly from Lima to Peru and not having any inside information on any of them, I decided that price and time of day would be the deciding factors.

  LATAM?  Avianca?  Star Peru?  Peruvian?  LC Peru?  Viva Air Peru?

Having finally decided on Star Peru, it was disheartening to discover difficult that their booking sight would not charge my credit card.  I am not sure if it was user error or the fact that I was trying to book from outside of the country, but I had to figure out another option…Kayak showed me many options and although the price was slightly higher, I was able to book LC Peru.  After spending a day in Lima, we would leave fairly early for the short, one hour flight to Cusco.  Arriving mid-morning, we just hoped that our hotel would allow for an early check-in.  Additionally, our flight from Lima, back to the states, was around the midnight hour, so we decided on a flight from Cusco later in the afternoon, allowing us to sleep in, ask for a later check-out and grab some lunch before heading to the airport.

Our next major decision was how to split up the time in Cusco upon our arrival.  What should we see and do?  When should we head to Machu Picchu?

Scheduled to arrive in Cusco on Saturday morning, we decided to see a bit of the city that afternoon and possibly the next, allowing for acclimatization.  We were anxious to get to Machu Picchu, but didn’t want to rush the process.

After some debate on whether or not to book a tour to the Sacred Valley which incorporated travel to Machu Picchu and back, I decided that I wanted to experience everything on my own time.  This option required a full day of sightseeing, arriving in Aguas Calientes at night and having to rise early the next morning.  Though one of my friends described the small gateway city to Machu Picchu as a “dump” and “an armpit”, I was convinced that it offered some charm and I wanted ample time to see it.

Deciding that we would see the Sacred Valley on Sunday, travel to Aguas Calientes on Monday and visit Machu Picchu on Tuesday, I now had to make sure that this timeline was possible.

Since capacity restrictions dictate whether or not I could purchase tickets to Machu Picchu, checking the Ministry of Culture website for availability was my first order of business.  I had heard that the website was a bit confusing, but I had no problems, other than deciding if we wanted to climb Huayna Picchu.  After following the directions offered, our tickets for the morning entrance were secured and printed.

Second order of business…getting to Aguas Calientes.  The Peru Rail website was pretty straightforward and we decided that we would travel from Cusco Poroy station to Aguas Calientes, instead of from Ollantaytambo, which required a lengthy taxi or bus ride.  Pricing wasn’t much different and we would leave early, arriving around 11:00 am.  After selecting our options, the website made a reservation and charged my credit card, however, it did not generate tickets.  I knew something was off but not sure what the problem was.  After two phone calls to Peru, I finally found someone at Peru Rail who could help.  Six hours later, many emails back and forth, plus the submittal of information requested, we finally had tickets.  A refund for the first charges was processed about a week later.

Next, we needed a hotel room in Aguas Calientes.  There are many options from hostels to high-end spas.  After perusing different choices on Agoda, I decided that with so little time at the hotel, it was not prudent to spend a great deal for one night.  Deciding on a mid-grade room, this was booked and paid for.

With our plans for Machu Picchu now in place, we were able to make hotel reservations for Cusco.  Choosing my husband’s preferred hotel chain, we booked two nights in Cusco and then another three for after our return from Machu Picchu.

Finally, the Sacred Valley beckoned.  There are many options for organized tours to this amazing area available on the internet.  Reaching out to a friend who had just been in Cusco, for advice, she put me in touch with a local contact.  He, in turn, reached out to people he knew and found a tour that visited the sites we most wanted to see, Chincherra, Maras, Moray, Ollantaytambo and Pisac and lunch in Urubamba.  The price, at first, seemed much cheaper than what I was seeing in my research and I was a little hesitant.  What I learned, however, was that we had to pay for entrance to the sights once we arrived in Chincherra, making it about the same price in the end.  When all was said and done, however, if I had to book this tour again, the first thing I would inquire about is how many other passengers are on the trip, something I usually do but failed this time.

So, the only things left on the booking agenda was how to fill our two remaining days in Cusco, once we returned from Machu Picchu.  There were many tours on the internet and my friend let me know that many options were available throughout the city and in the Plaza de Armas.  We decided that we would wait and see what we found once we arrived.  We would also purchase our tickets for our bus ride to Machu Picchu once we arrived in Cusco, since they are only valid for three days after purchase.  This would allow us to avoid the long lines that sometimes form in Aquas Calientes.

Now, the only things left to do was confirm our flights closer to our departure date and figure out what to wear.

Figuring out what to pack was much tougher than I expected and I spent many days, shopping and then returning items that I ultimately decided were not what the trip required.  The weather seemed to change on a dime and everyone uttered those words I hate, “bring layers”.  The weather forecast even gave the type of temperatures that I hate, “60s”!  60 in the sun, can be totally different than 60 in the shade!

Eventually, I decided on three pairs of quick-drying pants (so I could wash them in the room, if needed), a pair of jeans that I would wear on the plane and for dinner, one pair of exercise-type leggings, two flannel shirts, a couple of nicer blouses for dinner, a few quick-drying shirts and a short sleeve shirt.  To top it all, I did indeed, bring layers.  A Columbia zip-up fleece, a lighter weight jacket (that could be combined with the fleece), a Columbia rain jacket and my ScottEVest to carry many items securely and without taking up space in my carry on.  I purchased inexpensive socks from a dollar store that I could leave behind.  My shoe collection consisted of three pairs…a thick soled pair of “nicer” boots (good for walking on cobblestones), hiking boots and tennis shoes.  A scarf, dollar store gloves, hat, bathing suit and sunglasses completed my list.

Besides our clothing, the other most important ingredient in our bags was acetazolamide.  Having consulted our physicians long before our trip, we received prescriptions for the drug designed to combat altitude sickness.  With an altitude of just over 11,000 feet, visits to Cusco are known to induce headaches, nausea and shortness of breath for those unaccustomed to the high elevation.   Since neither of us had ever been to elevations this great, we were unsure how our bodies would react and wanted to be prepared.

Trying to figure out what to put everything in was also a bit confusing.  Smaller airlines, usually restrict the size of luggage and what can be brought on board.  Last year, I brought an Ebags backpack and a Longchamp carry-on to Africa, though I must admit, that was a bit hard on my back.  Thinking about taking a train and having to take luggage was a factor when deciding how to pack.  Finally, I opted to my Ebags rollerboard and a backpack.  I also brought a foldable daypack.   After reading up on the subject, I found that Peru Rail prefers smaller, carry-on sized luggage.  Checking with our hotels in Cusco and in Aguas Calientes, I found that we could leave our luggage checked while at Machu Picchu.  The most important factor at this point was not bringing many valuables and having good locks for our bags.

Though it took a great deal of effort and time, I finally could sit back and feel comfortable in knowing that everything was ready for our trip.  It was finally time…time for me to head to Machu Picchu and get my shot with the citadel…and a llama or two…spread out beneath me!

 

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Age-old Commerce

© 2018 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Shop til you drop?

Even the Romans did it a couple of thousand years ago!

With so many things to visit in the Colosseum area, it was a hard decision as to what my destination would be on the warm, sunny day…

The Colosseum?

The Forum?

The Palatine?

The Altare della Patria?

I hadn’t been shopping lately…maybe it was a good day to see the place believed to be the first shopping mall ever constructed.

The Trajan Market.

Today, the arcades in Trajan’s Market are known to not only have housed shopping but administrative offices for Emperor Trajan after its inauguration in 113 A.D.  The complex included a covered market, small shop fronts and a residential apartment block.  The structure comprised three levels, built into the adjacent hillside, with the ground level including alcoves used for small shops which opened onto the street.

Looking for a “Trajan Market” sign (or the Italian equivalent) marking the entrance, I must have walked past the actual entrance three or four times before I realized that the Museum of the Imperial Fora was where I needed to be.

The multilevel structure, opened in 2007, is a fascinating place filled with artifacts from all of ancient Rome’s forums and fills the space where the ancient mall once operated.  The former shopping area was spread out on two different sides of the complex and the elegant marble floors and the remains of a library are still visible.  The primary products sold at the market would have come from across the empire and included fruit, vegetables, fish, wine, oil and spices.

The name of the street on the upper level of the Market, Biberatica, gives a clue to what may have occupied the spaces here.  The Latin word, biber, meaning drink gives rise to the notion that various drinking establishments were available to serve the market shoppers.  This area was covered by a concrete vault which allowed air and light into the central space and the intricate brickwork is fascinating, both in its construction and the fact that it still remains almost flawless…as it was the day it was erected.

Walking to the far end of the building, I utilized the stairway and headed to the courtyard on the side of the market.  Here, current exhibitions are on display and I was pleasantly surprised to discover The Spiral, an installation designed by artist Luminita Taranu, inspired by the Trajan’s Column.  I loved the colorful hues and metals used in the creation of this masterpiece…and I loved the photo opportunities it presented!

Finally, I moved into the open rear area, entering the large halls, once probably used for auditions and concerts.  As I walked through the smaller, concrete and brick spaces, I found some of the 170 total rooms empty and some housing information on the ancient marketplace.

Still, the most impressive part of the the complex was standing out on the top of the semicircular balcony, looking out over the ruins, including the Torre delle Milizie, built in 1200, and the neighboring Forum and Altare della Patria.

 

Walking back through the interior part of the compound, I took more time to inspect the intricacies of the construction and the pieces that occupied its interior.

No great sales were found, but I can say, it was a great deal to experience firsthand, what it must have been like to shop this extraordinary venue almost two thousand years ago.

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Trajan Market and Museum of the Imperial Forums

  • http://www.mercatiditraiano.it/
  • Address:  Via Quattro Novembre, 94, 00187 Roma RM, Italy
  • Hours:  0930-1930, daily.  0930-1400, December 24 and 31.  Closed January 1, May 1 and December 25
  • Admission:  Adults, €15.00. Reduced, €13.00.  Citizens residing in the territory of Roma Capital (proof required).  Reduced, €11.00.  Includes museum entrance and exhibitions.
  • Getting There:  Take the metro, Blue line and get off at Colosseo.

Bernini’s Perfect Work

© 2018 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Don’t you love it when you find something special without even trying?

Recently, while in Rome, I was out for a walk headed toward nowhere in particular.   Enjoying a gelato, the sunshine and my leisurely stroll, I was paying attention to the intricate and elegant architecture of the area.

Walking along the Via del Quirinale, I noticed a church on my left.  Noticing people entering, I decided to take a look inside.

The Church of Sant’ Andrea al Quirinal is a Roman Catholic church built for the Jesuit seminary on the Quirinal Hill.  Commissioned in 1658, the church was constructed in 1661 and designed by Gian Lorenzo Bernini, who considered it one of his most perfect works.

And perfect it was!

A rotunda-type oval church, with the high altar placed on the short axis, makes it much closer to the entrance than most churches and the first thing I set my eyes upon.  Drawn in due to the placement, my gaze was transfixed on the red marble columns flanking the incredible, breathtaking altar and the painting of The Martyrdom of Saint Andrew by Guillaume Courtois, topped with three-dimensional golden cherubs and a marble figure of Saint Andrew resting on the pediment high above the altar, arm outstretched and gazing upward.

Finally, tearing myself away, I began to inspect each of the chapels, moving to the right of the altar. The Chapel of St. Francis Xavier, showcases three canvases by Baciccio depicting the Baptism, Preaching and Death of St. Francis Xavier.   Gazing upward, the ceiling presents a painting of The Glory of St. Francis Xavier by Filippo Bracci.

The Chapel of the Passion, has three canvases with scenes from the Passion of Jesus Christ by Giacinto Brandi and the chapel to the left of the altar, The Chapel of Saint Stanislaus Kostka, houses the shrine of the saint, a bronze and lapis lazuli urn and a painting of the Madonna With Child and Saint Stanislaus Kostka.  Make sure to check out the ceiling fresco by Govanni Odazzi.

Another chapel is dedicated to Saint Ignatius of Loyola and showcases paintings by Ludovico Mazzanti of the Madonna and Child and Saints and Adoration of Kings and Shepherds.   Another magnificent ceiling painting, Glory of the Angels, commanded my attention here also.

The final altar, located between the Chapel of Saint Stanislaus Kostka caught my eye with the large crucifix.  In this chapel, I discovered the tomb of King Charles Emmanuel IV of Sardinia and Piedmont, who abdicated in 1815 to enter the Society of Jesus and lived in the Jesuit novitiate, adjacent to the church, until his death in 1819.

Many other intricately carved statues grace the pediments above the chapels and the domed ceiling is centered with an oculus allowing the church to be lighted naturally.  Bringing my attention to the floor, I was entranced by the amazing inlaid mosaics which mirrors the elliptical dome overhead.  Bernini did not want large funerary monuments within the church to ruin the architectural lines, so the mosaics mark the grave of those such as Cardinal Giambattista Spinola.

As I was moving through the church, I noticed a sign near a doorway.  As if there wasn’t enough to captivate my attention, I discovered that for a small fee, I could visit the Rooms of Saint Stanislaus Kostka in the Jesuit novitiate, attached to the church, as well as the sacristy, which has been described as the most beautiful in the city.  Not seeing many people heading that way, I decided that my curiosity needed to be satisfied.

Paying the sacristan on duty, I was then directed me up a stairway.  Entering a small room, I discovered paintings and information about Saint Stanislaus Kostka.  As I walked into the rooms that the saint spent his final years, what caught my eye…and actually, caught me a bit off guard…was a life-size marble statue depicting the dying saint, designed by Pierre Legros.  Portrayed at the age of 18, the saint rests on a marble bed and holds in one hand, a small framed image of the Virgin Mary and a real rosary in the other. Surrounded by paintings from his life, the Baroque decor is even more engaging, painted deep red and trimmed in an abundance of gold.

Relics belonging to the saint are displayed in a case the left and two altars fill the wall spaces.  The rooms were so mesmerizing and yet so intimate, not something you get to experience in the normal course of a church visit.

After my descent to the bottom level, I was greeted once again by the sacristan, who then led me into the sacristy and turned on the interior lights.  As my eyes adjusted, I thought, “Indeed, this could be one of the most beautiful in Rome.”  The dark wood altarpiece displays a painting, Immaculate Conception, by Andrea Pozzo, but the ceiling is the magnificent that I have ever seen. The multi-dimensional fresco depicts the Apotheosis of St. Andrew by Govanni de Brosso and is worthy of more than a few minutes of anyone’s time.  Take a seat and stay awhile!

Finally, as my visit was drawing to a close, I took one more round in the church and then stepped outside to take a better look at the exterior.  A simple beauty, marked by a semicircular porch with two Ionic columns invites visitors in to its exaggerated beauty on the inside.

As I stood contemplating what I had just witnessed, a couple walked up near me and read about the church from a guide book they were carrying.  Seeming a bit hesitant about whether or not to take the time to enter, I encouraged them to do so.  To not enter and miss one of Rome’s treasures would be just as a Jesuit devotee dying at the young age of 18.

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Sant’Andrea al Quirinale

  • Address:  Via del Quirinale 29.
  • Hours:  Monday-Friday 0830-1200, 1500-1900. Saturday and Sunday 0900-1200, 1530-1900.
  • Admission:  free.  €2.00 for entrance to Chapel of St. Stanislov and sacristy.
  • Getting There:  From the Fontane del Tritone near the Barberini Metro station, walk up Via delle Qattro Fontane. Turn right at Via del Quirinale; pass the church San Carlo alle Quatro Fontane (built by Bernini’s rival, Borromini). Pass the park and Sant’Andrea is on the left at the end of the gardens.

 

 

An Ancient House of Worship

© 2018 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

The area near the Piazza Navona is one of my favorite places to visit when in Rome, for the activity, the food, the artists and the gelato.

But…I am not going to tell you about the Piazza Navona.

I’m going to tell you about a building that I pass every time I head there.

The Pantheon.

There are many churches in Rome.  I have been to too many to count, however, one of the best preserved buildings in Rome is a church originally constructed as a temple dedicated to all the gods of pagan Rome.  Dating back to between AD 118 and 125, the Pantheon was built after an original edition was destroyed by fire.  As ancient as it is, this prodigious building has been in use since its construction.

Having visited many times before, I still like to take a look inside every now and then.  Approaching the beautiful facade on my most recent trip, I am still mesmerized by the massive columns that line the portico.  Walking among these is always quite inspiring, imaging those who came before me.  Nothing, however, prepares you for those who have come minutes before…other tourists.

Massive crowds fill the interior every day seeking to inspect this architectural phenomenon.  Though classified as a temple, it is unknown how worship was conducted here as it is quite different from many other ancient Roman temples.  Today, though, many take a seat near the altar, head bowed in prayer and contemplation…appropriate as its inception as a church when Byzantine emperor Phocas bequeathed it to Pope Boniface IV in AD 608.

The best way to appreciate the Pantheon (while dodging the crowds), however, is to walk around the round structure while noting that remarkably, the diameter is the same as the interior height of the dome.  The architecture is most fascinating as the structure is comprised of a series of intersecting arches resting on eight piers.  The arches correspond to the eight bays which house statues.

Interspersed between the bays are the tombs of many famous figures from Italian history…painters Raphael and Annibale Carracci, composer, Arcangelo Corelli and architect Baldassare Peruzzi as well as the Italian kings, Vittorio Emanuele II and Umberto I.  There are also many paintings that adorn the walls, the best known being the Annunication by Melozzo da Forli.

The most amazing part of the Pantheon, however, is the oculus and probably the first thing your eye is drawn to when entering.  An engineering feat of its time, no other constructed before was as large.   Still lined with the original Roman bronze, it is the main source of light for the entire building.  As the oculus is open to the elements, rain does fall into the interior.  Tourists should never fear, however, the slightly convex floor allows the water to drain into the still functioning Roman drainpipes beneath.

After my visit was complete, I stepped out into the piazza to take a better look at the fabulous temple from afar.  The crowds were probably as thick here as they were inside, however, I was able to step up onto the raised platform that surrounded the amazing fountain that holds court in the center of the square.

After my photographs of the Pantheon were taken, I turned around to inspect the bubbling water behind me.  Funny, as many times as I had walked through this piazza and visited the Pantheon, I had only ever glanced at the fountain due to the large crowds that surround it.

The Fontana del Pantheon was commissioned by Pope Gregory XIII and sculpted entirely out of marble.  When the fountain was modified over a hundred years later, a new basin made of stone was installed and the Macuteo obelisk that you see today, was placed in the center.  The original marble figures that were originally installed, were removed in 1886, replaced with copies and placed in the Museum of Rome.  Much more beautiful up close!

If you are on your way to the Piazza Navona, or just in the area, step inside to see this incredible architectural gem and then have a seat around the beautiful fountain.  Grab a gelato or a drink and relax for a while.

With so many visitors, you never know who you might meet!

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Pantheon

  • http://www.polomusealelazio.beniculturali.it/index.php?it/232/pantheon
  • Address:  Piazza della Rotonda, 00186 Rome
  • Hours:  Monday-Saturday, 0830-1930, Sunday, 0900-1800.  Mid-week holidays, 0900-1300.  Closed January 1, May 1, December 25.
  • Admission:  free
  • Getting There:  Take bus 117 and get off at Corso-Minghetti.  The Pantheon is a 4 minute walk.

 

Vestiges and Views

© 2018 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Trying to find a destination where you can see a lot in a small amount of time?

Rome is your city!

There are so many things in a close proximity, it is easy to fill your days in a productive way.

Three things that you can check off your list in one area (and one the same ticket) are the Roman Colosseum, the Roman Forum and Palatine Hill.

The Colosseum is a huge draw and may result in waiting in line for some time, however, capacity restrictions are not as stringent for the neighboring Forum and Palatine Hill, where you can see some of the best ruins and some of the best views.  After checking out the famed site of gladiator battles, head on over for a glimpse at the area where ancient Roman citizens utilized for their every day life.

The Roman Forum today, showcases the ruins of several important ancient government buildings and was once a marketplace and site of victory processions, elections, public speeches and criminal trials.  Many locals and visitors presently utilize the plaza between the Colosseum and the Forum as a meeting point, however, this rectangular forum was probably the most famed meeting place in the world and in history.

Some of the oldest and most important structures were located in the Forum, including the earliest shrines, temples, the royal residence and government offices (including the Senate House) and many of these architectural fragments and excavations can be examined at close range.

Entering the complex near the Arch of Titus, we discovered many paths throughout to survey the area in its entirety, encompassing the two basilicas, Fulvia Aemilia, a 100 meter public hall with a two-story porticoed facade dating back to 179 BC and Basilica Julia, built by Julius Caesar on the site of Basilica Sempronia in 54 BC.  The Tempio di Antonino e Faustina, erected in AD 141 and transformed into a church in the 8th century (Chiesa di San Lorenzo in Miranda) and the Temple of Romulus are two of the most intact buildings on the premises.  Near the Temple of Romulus, you will find the Basilica of Maxentius, the largest building on the forum, originally measuring 100 meters by 65 meters.

The Via Sacra, the Forum’s main thoroughfare brought us to many of the main sights, including the Tempio di Giulio Cesare, built by Augustus in 29 BC, the site where Julius Caesar was cremated and the Curia, the original seat of the Roman Senate which was converted into a church in the Middle Ages.  Here, we were able to check out the large piece of black marble in front of the Curia, the Lapis Niger, which is said to cover the tomb of Romulus, a mythological figure.

Also on the Via Sacra, we discovered the Casa delle Vestali, the home of the virgins who tended the sacred flame in the Tempio di Vesta.  These priestesses, aged between six and ten years, were selected from aristocratic families to serve in the temple for thirty years.  So great was the responsibility of keeping both the flame and their virginity intact that the penalty of flogging and/or death was imposed for those who did not adhere to the orders.  The statues which honor these virgins line the Via Sacra and though most are in good condition, a many are missing their heads.

At the end of the Via Sacra, we came upon the Arco di Settimio Severo, a 23 meter high structure, built in AD 203 and dedicated to the emperor and his two sons, Caracalla and Geta.  The arch commemorated the Roman victory over the Parthians.

The remains of the Rostri could be seen in front of the arch.  This elaborate podium was the site of Mark Antony’s famous, “Friends, Romans and countrymen…” speech.  Facing the Rostri is the Colonna di Foca (Column of Phocus) which fronts what once was the Forum’s main square.

Behind the Colonna, we spied eight granite columns which are all that remain of the Temple of Saturn, an important temple that also acted as the state treasury.

Other notable structures are the ruins of the Tempio della Concordia, the Tempio di Vespasiano and the Portico degli Dei Consenti as well as the 6th century Chiesa di Santa Maria Antigua, the oldest and most important monument in the Roman Forum.  This church is occasionally opened for temporary exhibitions and showcases early Christian art from the 6th through 9th centuries, including one of the earliest icons in existence of the the Virgin Mary and Child.  In front of the church you can find the, now inaccessible, Imperial Ramp which was an underground passageway that allowed the emperors to access the Forum privately.

Palatine Hill is connected to the Forum and at the center of the seven hills of Rome.  Standing above the Forum, it was once the place where Imperial palaces were built.  Heading uphill, we made our way through the grounds.

Included with admission to the Colosseum and the Forum, this archaeological site is worth a visit for the monuments located here as well as for the views, which not only include the Forum, but Circus Maximus on the far side.  If you are versed in mythology, then you will also be aware that this is believed to be the site of the cave where Romulus and Remus were found and cared for by the she-wolf, Luperca.

The Palace of Domitian is the main structure at this location and it is located at the far side of Palatine Hill.  Also known as the Flavian Palace, it was built as Domitian’s imperial palace.

Since many of the structures are mainly ruins, it was a bit difficult to make sense of what was there, however, some areas and buildings are well preserved.  The Stadium of Domitian resembles a hippodrome, yet, there has been debate on whether it was used for that purpose or as the emperor’s gardens.

The Houses of Augustus and Livia, are still standing and in good condition and house some impressive art and frescoes. Tours of both of these impressive structures are available, however, advance tickets were required and we were not in possession.  If you can secure them ahead of time, it is worth the effort in order to check out Augustus’ private study.

The Palatine Museum is also open to the public and contains a display of Roman statuary and findings from the hippodrome, however, being the end of our day, we decided that this would have to wait until another visit.

The most important thing to see at the Palatine, however, are the views!  Though we were not as prepared as we could have been, I think next time, I would bring a picnic and enjoy this area for a little longer…taking in the Roman landscape spread out before Palatine Hill, from Circus Maximus, to Aventine Hill and the spectacular ruins of the Forum, the Colosseum and the Capitoline Hill.

Rome never disappoints!

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Roman Forum

  • http://www.turismoroma.it/cosa-fare/fori?lang=it
  • Address:  Via della Salara Vecchia, 5/6, 00186 Roma RM, Italy
  • Hours:  0830-1900, daily
  • Admission:  Combined ticket with Colosseum, the Roman Forum and Palatine, Adults, 12€.  European Union members (18-24 years), 7.50€.  Children, under 17, free.  Seniors, over 65, free.
  • Getting There:  Take the “B” Line Metro and exit at the Colosseo station.  Take the “A” Line Metro and exit at the Manzoni station to take Tram 3, two stops south.  Bus #s 51, 75, 85, 87 and 118 run to the Colosseum.  Taxis and Uber will drop you across Via dei Fori Imperiali.

Palatine Hill

  • Address:  Via di San Gregorio, 30
  • Hours:  0830-1900, daily
  • Admission:  Combined ticket with Colosseum, the Roman Forum and Palatine, Adults, 12€.  European Union members (18-24 years), 7.50€.  Children, under 17, free.  Seniors, over 65, free.
  • Getting There:  Take the “B” Line Metro and exit at the Colosseo station.  Take the “A” Line Metro and exit at the Manzoni station to take Tram 3, two stops south.  Bus #s 51, 75, 85, 87 and 118 run to the Colosseum.  Taxis and Uber will drop you across Via dei Fori Imperiali.

What’s New At The Colosseum?

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How many times can you visit the same landmark and not be bored?

In the case of the Roman Colosseum, I do not think there is a limit!

Having been to this architectural phenomenon at least five or six times, I never tire of seeing its structural prowess which has withstood the elements for so many years.  I enjoy meandering through the passageways and gazing out on the arena which was the site of much action in its early years.

Arch of Constantine

The area outside of the edifice has also long been a meeting point for those who live in the city as well as for visitors.  Here you can simply revel in the view, have a refreshing beverage, cool off with a cup of gelato or take a photo with a Roman gladiator.  You can also stroll around the neighboring Arch of Constantine, built in A.D. 315 in honor of Constantine I’s victory over Maxentius at Pons Milvius or through the Roman Forum, the ruins of several ancient government buildings and the site of an ancient marketplace.

But as many times as I have set foot in this awe-inspiring masterpiece, I always seem to learn something new.

A visit to the Colosseum is  a walk through the past and there is much knowledge that I have gleaned from each of my visits.  Take a look at many of the facts about the Roman Colosseum…how much did you know?

The Colosseum is also known as the Flavian Amphitheater.

The Emperor Vespasian, ordered the Colosseum built in the heart of Ancient Rome in 72 A.D.  A gift to the Roman citizens, it was completed a short eight years later.  

Ten of thousands of slaves built the free-standing structure from stone and concrete.

The Colosseum is the largest amphitheater in the world, measuring 186 meters long, 156 meters wide and 50 meters high!

80 separate entrances allowed for the ease of movement of 50,000 spectators into the building.  Too bad more of these are not in use today…the lines to enter can be quite lengthy during the busiest times of the year.

There were three stories, each containing columns of a different style.  The bottom columns were from the simple Doric order, the center, Ionic and the top, Corinthian.  

Many events were held here, including gladiatorial contests and wild animal hunts.  The arena could also be flooded and drained very quickly, allowing for the viewing of naval battles without heading to the coast.

The emperor’s enjoyed the entertainment so much that they not only organized the events but also paid for them, allowing for the free entry of those desiring to attend.   By also providing food, they ensured their popularity and support.

Emperor Vespasian’s son, Titus, was the first to hold games to commemorate the completion of the Colosseum.  These games continued for 100 days.  Gladiatorial games continued until the fifth century and animal hunts until the sixth.

Although most gladiators were male, recorded history indicates that there were some female gladiators.  Contrary to what most believe, however, gladiators were not noble, brave soldiers…most were slaves, condemned criminals or prisoners of war.

Those with weak constitutions were not encouraged to attend as many events were quite brutal.  During certain games held by the emperors, around 10,000 animals were killed in a single day.

Despite the scorching mid-day sun, the spectators could enjoy the activities in the shade.  An awning, called a velarium, could be pulled over the top of the seating areas.

A large number of rooms and underground passages were located beneath the Colosseum.  Here, gladiators and animals waited to meet their fate.  There were also thirty-six trap doors which could be used for special effects. 

Vandalism, earthquakes and fires have destroyed about two thirds of the Colosseum over the years.  During the 18th century, this mighty structure was used a source of building materials for other important buildings, including the cathedrals of St. Peter and St. John Lateran, the Palazzo Venezia and defense fortifications along the Tiber River.

Restoration efforts began in the 1990s and can still be seen continuing today.  Funding from the admittance of thousands of visitors each year allow for the preservation of this mighty monument.

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Roman Colosseum

  • https://www.rome.info/colosseum/
  • Address:  Piazza del Colosseo, 1, 00184 Roma RM, Italy
  • Hours:  Last Sunday of October to February 15, 0830-1630, February 16 to March 15, 0830-1700, March 16 until last Saturday of March, 0830-1730, last Sunday of March to August 31, 0830-1915, September 1-September 30, 0830-1900, October 1 until last Saturday of October, 0830-1830.  Closed December 25, January 1 and May 1.
  • Admission:  Ticket includes admission to Roman Colosseum, Roman Forum and Palatine Hill and is valid for two days, Adults, €12.00.  Reduced fee for European Union citizens between the ages of 18 and 25 and for EU teachers, €7.00.  Visitors under the age of 17, Free.
  • There is a ticket booth within the Colosseum, however, you can avoid waiting in line twice, once for the ticket purchase and once for entry.  A new ticket office has been opened across from the Colosseum and alongside the entrance to the Roman Forum.  After purchasing ticket, make sure to enter the line for entrance at the Colosseum.  Tickets can also be purchased online and and by telephone.
  • Getting There:  Take the “B” Line Metro and exit at the Colosseo station.  Take the “A” Line Metro and exit at the Manzoni station to take Tram 3, two stops south.  Bus #s 51, 75, 85, 87 and 118 run to the Colosseum.  Taxis and Uber will drop you across Via dei Fori Imperiali.

 

 

 

Rainforest Revelry

© 2018 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Image result for musical notesHappy birthday to me…

Happy birthday to me…

Having a birthday in Panama…

Oh…what will I see?

Setting out early with our tour guide, we steeled ourselves for the long ride through the congested streets of Panama City.  Our destination, a point on the river near the city of Chilibre, was going to be the start of our day in the rainforest and a visit with an Embrera Indian tribe.

As we made our way down the steep banks of the Chagres River, we watched as a a few boats approached the landing point.  Traditionally dressed male tribe members unloaded and loaded supplies into their handcrafted canoes and readied their boats for trips back to their villages on various points of the river.

Finally, a boat docked on the banks and we were given life vests and ushered down into the waiting vessel.  Motoring along the calm, shallow waters, its banks lined with the local flora and fauna, I couldn’t keep the smile off of my face.  This was truly an adventure!

After what seemed like a long ride, we finally pulled into a shallow channel and pulled the canoe onto the sandy spits exposed by the low tide.  Following our guide, we made our way through the rainforest…sometimes walking through the swift-moving, ankle-deep water and sometimes making our way along the muddy paths lining the river.  The sound of a large amount of rushing water greeted our ears and as we made our way around a large boulder, the end of our trek was in sight.

A beautiful waterfall.

Swimming in the refreshing, cold, clear water with my son, I was elated that this was how I was able to start my day…enjoying nature at its most beautiful.

Eventually, a sound alerted us that it was time to go…thunder.  A darkening sky confirmed that it was time to make our way back to our boat and as we hustled along the rain soaked paths, we realized that we were going to get really wet.

Retracing our steps along the river, we motored along in the pouring rain, hoping for a respite at the village.

As we pulled alongside the village dock, the rain continued making it difficult to make our way up the slick walkway.  Even with the soggy deluge, the tribe was there to greet us as they played musical instruments and lined up, smiling and welcoming us to their home.

We were ushered to an extensive hut and invited to take a seat.  As I admired the beautiful fabrics, created by the tribe, hanging throughout the interior, the members of the tribe began to enter.  After a greeting and information on the tribe’s culture, lifestyle and crafts, by one of the tribe’s members, we were treated to shamanic and celebrational dances with musical accompaniments.

The villagers, dressed in their handwoven and  metal, embellished cloths danced together, sometimes only the women and sometimes joined by the men.

The best was yet to come.

The tribal spokesman talked a bit more about the tribe and led into a sentence about how it was a special day.  The women had prepared something special.

A special floral birthday crown for ME!

I was touched to discover that our guide had let them know that I had elected to spend my special day with them and they in turn, were so touched that they wanted to make something special for me.  Words cannot express what an amazing gift that was!

After a visit to the kitchen hut, where we watched the women preparing food for the day, we were treated to a meal of locally caught, fresh, fried fish and fruit.  We then browsed the vast selection of items crafted by the tribe members…baskets, fabrics, jewelry, plates and masks…while watching the younger members of the tribe play under the tables and outside in the puddles. Here, you can also have a non-permanent tattoo applied to your skin and watch some of the finest basket makers in the world as they work to create intricate all sizes of baskets with intricate patterns from palm leaves and natural pigments.

The rain was still coming down, though not as hard, and it was time to head down to the boat and back to our origination point.  The beauty of the region was not lost on us, regardless of the weather, but the usual sights of sloth’s, monkeys, toucans and eagles would not be had on this day.

Still, nature is nature and sometimes in the rain forest…it rains.  Though I would have loved to have had a bright, sunny day to get better photos, I still have to say, a rainy adventure on your birthday is better than no adventure on your birthday!

For more pictures, check out Instagram, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

 

Embrera Indian Tribe Tours

 

 

Panama Of The Past

© 2018 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Many ancient Spanish cities have maintained their old quarters.

Panama City is no exception.

The city, founded on August 15, 1519, lasted one hundred and fifty two years, until Governor Juan Perez de Guzman ordered it to be set to fire in 1671 in an attempt to thwart an attack by pirate Henry Morgan.  A year later, construction began on the new city, then founded on January 21, 1673.  Built on a peninsula, it was entirely segregated from the sea and protected by a system of walls.

Once, one of the richest and most densely populated neighborhoods, Casco Viejo experienced years of neglect around the 1950s.  Today, the city has preserved this area and was declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1997.  One of the city’s top attractions, it draws thousands of visitors who come to experience Panama’s culture and history.

As we were dropped off at the Plaza de la Independencia, where the country’s independence from Spain and Columbia was celebrated, I glanced around at the fine architectural details present on most of the buildings.  The Casco Viejo (Spanish for Old Town) is filled with peaceful, shady plazas, wrought iron balconies, aged, brightly colored doorways and a myriad of churches.

After inspecting the dignified busts of Panama’s founding fathers, scattered throughout the square, we glanced around, not sure how to tackle the many narrow streets and plazas beckoning to my touristic nature.  Heading toward the waterfront, we occasionally stopped to peruse the many souvenir shops filled with masks, pareos, outdated Panama license plates and of course, Panama hats.

The waterfront promenade offered some amazing views of the city’s impressive skyline as well as of the Cinta Costera, the viaduct  that encircles the historic and governmental district of Casco Viejo, a controversial project which was built to solve the traffic nightmares without disturbing the historic neighborhood.

Grabbing a snow-cone from one of the local vendors, we sat on a park bench and savored the balmy temperatures while enjoying our chilly treat.

While my main desire was to visit La Catedral Metropolitana, the main, Catholic temple in Panama City, we found it to be under a massive renovation.  The San Francisco de Asis Church was only a couple of blocks away and we decided to step in.  One of the original structures from Casco Viejo, the church was nearly destroyed by fire in 1737 and 1756.  Restored  in 1998, it was more modern than I anticipated but presented vibrant stained glass, marble throughout and a beautiful, mosaic behind the altar.

The San Francisco de Asis Church

Though we were not allowed to venture too close, we walked near the Palace of the Herons, the stately home and offices of the President of Panama.  Built in 1673, the grounds are home to African herons, thus earning its name.

Another main tourist attraction in Casco Viejo is the Panama Canal Museum.  Since we had just come from the Miraflores Visitor Center, we opted to take a pass on this one.

Continuing on the cobblestone streets, we admired the local artwork and graffiti that adorned many walls.  Though many buildings have been restored, there are many still under construction and some in various stages of decay.  Still, I enjoyed seeing the remnants of days gone by, knowing that so much history resides in these crumbling facades.  Amidst the beautifully colored buildings, these chasms in the perfection of the city, add mystery and wonder.

Capilla de San José

Two more churches were also encountered in Casco Viejo.  Even with a considerable Catholic population, it is incredible that so many churches exist in such a small area.  One of the three churches we visited was the Capilla de San José, an unassuming church built in the 1670s.  We enjoyed the quiet atmosphere and admired its famed lustrous golden altar, carved of wood and painted in gold flake.  Another church, Iglesia de Merced, is one of the city’s oldest structures (1680) and most noted for its baroque facade.  Containing a beautiful wooden altar and a large collection of religious statues, it’s most impressive feature its its original, exposed wooden ceiling.  So ancient does this ceiling appear, that it made me slightly uneasy standing below.

Iglesia de Merced

Many restaurants and bars grace the streets in the Old Town and finding a tasty place to eat is not hard to do.  In fact, nighttime, is a festive affair and should not be missed when visiting the city, even if not staying in one of the area’s many hotels and hostels.

Finally, we made our way back to Plaza de la Independencia.  Taking a seat on one of the many shady, seating areas, we rested our weary feet, admiring the scenes around us.  Besides the other camera touting tourists, the square attracts a large number of locals who come to interact with each other and children who use the tranquil area to play.

As our afternoon came to an end, it was also pleasant to find that free WIFI was offered in this area and we were able to contact Uber for a ride home.

Though staying in Casco Viejo would have been nice, we opted for a hotel in the downtown area.  A little more affordable than the Old Town area, we found it to be surrounded by many restaurants and shopping and safe for walking at night.  Only a five dollar cab away, we were happy with our accommodations, however, if you want to be in the “happening” part of town, check out one of the many hotels and hostels in the area.

And if like us, you opt for downtown, make sure to visit the beautiful and historic part of Panama City.  Enjoying a part of Panama’s past is a fundamental part of a visit to The Isthmus!

 

Casco Viejo