When I first visited Paris, one of the first things I remember (besides the Eiffel Tower), was the Arc de Triomphe. Located near my hotel, I was fascinated by the grand structure which seemed to have a constant stream of cars driving around it at all hours.
On another trip, I discovered an arch in Milan in the Piazza Sempione, and yet another, in Rome, the Arch of Constantine.
Hey wait, just how many arches are there? I thought this was a Parisian thing!
How wrong I was!
Triumphal arches are the most distinctive type of architecture that is associated with ancient Rome. These arches were mainly used for various reasons, mainly to commemorate the founding of new colonies, generals’ victories, construction of roadways and bridges, deaths of members of the imperial family or the accession of a new emperor.
These arches often span roadways, have one or more arched passageways and are decorated with carvings, sculpted reliefs and dedications.
Arches in the Roman style have been constructed in many cities around the world. Yes, the Arc de Triomphe, Milan’s Arco della Pace and Arch of Constantine, but there are so many more, including the Narva Triumphal Arch in Saint Petersburg, the Wellington Arch in London, the Arcul de Triumf in Bucharest, the India Gate in Delhi, the Arch of Caracalla in Tebessa, Algeria, Arch of Titus in Rome, the Siegestor in Munich and the Soldiers’ and Sailors’ Arch in New York, just to name a few.
A few years later, while walking around in Barcelona, I was surprised to see another arch, very similar to the one in Paris, without the cars. Instead, there were many people walking around and through the arch onto the promenade of the Passeig de Lluis Companys.
Barcelona’s Arc de Triomf was built as the main access gate for the 1888 World Fair, by Josep Vilaseca, and still stands today, a true icon of the city. As it once welcomed visitors, it does so today, guiding them to the Parc de la Ciutadella.
On the day that I decided to revisit this monument, the afternoon was one of those that are hard to duplicate on a winter’s day. The sun was radiant, the sky brilliantly clear and the temperature extremely mild. Hundreds of people walked along the Passeig de Lluis Companys, enjoying the climate’s perfection!
As I approached the arch from Avenida de Vilanova, I marveled at the reddish brickwork standing vividly against the blue sky. The front frieze contains the stone sculpture Barcelona rep les nacions (“Barcelona welcomes the nations”) by Josep Reynes. Walking along the sides of the arch, I studied the friezes which include the stories of agriculture and industry by Antoni Vilanova and of trade and art by Torquat Tassó. The two pillars of the arch feature carved bats, something unexpected, but what I learned, were the emblem of King Jaume I, who ruled Barcelona during a period of prosperity. As I walked through the arch to the other side, I marveled at the number of people out and about as well as vendors hawking everything from jewelry to balloons.
Making my way to the concrete gates that line the Passeig de Lluis Companys, I stopped to study amazing urns that top the concrete gate, while occasionally dodging a biker or two. I especially enjoyed studying the unique lighting structures that also provide seating for visitors as well as a couple of interesting statues, including one of Pau Claris, an important political figure who proclaimed the Catalan Republic under the protection of France.
The best way to appreciate the arch, however, is to stop, turn and take a look at it every so often as you walk toward the Parc de la Ciutadella. Its amazing to see even from afar with the palm trees that line the walkway, framing its beauty.
So…how many have triumphal arches have I seen so far? About five…but with many trips planned for the future, I will be sure to seek them all out.
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Looking outside my window of my hotel room in Barcelona, I spy a strange-looking cylinder decorating the skyline.
Torre Glòries…formerly known as the Torre Agbar.
The contemporary bullet-shaped landmark ascends from Plaça de les Glòries and fills the skyline with the reflected colors of the Mediterranean by day and a multi-hued schemes by night. Though seemingly out of place among the more commonly shaped buildings, I rather enjoy its presence as it always lets me know where I am in the city.
Inaugurated in 2003, the iconic landmark was designed by Atelier Jean Nouvel to act as the headquarters for the water company, Grup Agbar. Often described as a water tower by the uninformed, because of its owners, it is not that in the true sense of the description, but rather only an office building. Standing just over 473 feet tall, it utilizes solar power and is covered with different colored glass louvers which can be tilted at different angles. These window blinds are regulated by temperature sensors (regulating the consumption of energy for air conditioning) and are illuminated by 4,500 LED devices. During holidays and other events, the tower’s lighting scheme can easily be changed by computer.
Though it is the third tallest building in the city and one for which the city has become known, it has not come about without it critics. Opened in June 2005, to a cost of 130 million euros, its design concept was described by the architect as one of a geyser spouting upward, the perfect home for a water company, though further leading people to believe it to be a water tower. It has also been said to have been inspired by the nearby mountain, Montserrat. Many others have also described the tower as having a phallic character. This unusual shape has garnered it several nicknames, el supositori (“the suppository”), l’obús (“the shell”) and it has been said that its round shape does not foster a productive environment for those who work within its walls.
The tower, though touted as a tourist attraction, is one that can only viewed from afar. Many tour groups and the Hop On, Hop Off buses offer it as a stopping point on their circuits, however, it is not open to the general public…such a waste as I had once read that it had intended to offer an observation deck. Views of the city from this location would have been unparalleled. However, even viewing it from the outside, it is still a landmark that cannot be missed. Go on a clear, blue-sky day and you won’t be disappointed with how beautiful it stands out against the heavens.
And, at night, check its location against the skyline to get your bearings…but seeing the luminous beauty of this water tower is even more wonderful!
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If you’ve ever been down to southern Louisiana, you’ve probably heard the Cajun French saying, “Laissez Les Bon Temps Roulez”.
“Let the good times roll.”
Having a good time is a way of life in Louisiana. We eat well, drink well, party well, love our music, our families and our heritage. Nothing is done half-way…we go ALL OUT!
And when it comes to our Mardi Gras parties, we definitely let the good times roll…literally…float after float.
Thousands of people visit Louisiana to attend Mardi Gras each year. Not restricted to the streets of New Orleans, there are many parades and celebrations throughout area, especially in the southern part of the state.
When I lived in New Orleans, Mardi Gras was a time of the year that I looked forward to most; not only for the King Cake (though that was an awesome aspect) but for the parades held during the weeks before Fat Tuesday. It was so much fun to stand atop my stool or ladder and try to get the beads, doubloons, cups and trinkets thrown from the elaborately decorated floats.
Years had passed since we left the city for a job opportunity six states away. Despite my attempts at recreating Mardi Gras in my home and at children’s preschool, I desperately missed the excitement and fun.
A trip to New Orleans with my husband in January, got me thinking of the upcoming festivities. Planning a trip with friends, we decided to head to the Big Easy during the busy weekend before Mardi Gras Day.
The streets were alive with visitors as we drove into the city and our hotel lobby filled with guests and their luggage, waiting to head up to their rooms.
Since our hotel was adjacent to five of the seven parades rolling through the downtown area during the weekend, we decided to catch the first two across the street from our hotel. The intersection of Poydras and Tchopitoulas streets was the end of the line for the floats and marchers of the Krewe’s of Iris and Tucks so it was going to be feast or famine…the float riders were either going to be out of throws or unloading their remainder.
It was interesting for me to be in an area where there were no barricades to keep the parade-goers at a safe distance from the floats and without my trusty ladder or step stool to give me a higher vantage point, I wasn’t sure if it would be the enjoyable experience that I was accustomed to.
As the floats began to turn onto Tchopitoulas street, you could feel the energy of the crowd ramp up. Everyone jumped to their feet and more people packed the area around us.
The oldest all-female Krewe of Iris presented 34 double and triple tandem floats with a theme of “Iris Through a Child’s Eyes”. Though the crowd became more dense around us, we were able to catch many beads and trinkets…enough that we were able to run upstairs to our room and dump them to make room in our bags for more.
The comedic Krewe of Tucks rolled immediately behind Iris and for its 51st parade with a theme of “Tucks Get Sick”. Floats with the titles of “Acid Reflux” and “Shingles and Ready to Mingle” carried masked riders throwing colored toilet paper, toilet brushes and the prized hand-decorated toilet plungers.
What I noticed for both parades were the new marching groups that were not present during my last New Orleans Mardi Gras 22 years ago. Though dancing groups like Dance Connection were still filling the gaps between the floats, new groups like the Amelia EarHawts, the Laissez Boys, the Dragon Riders, the 610 Stompers and the Rolling Elvi now give many the opportunity to show off their costumes and sometimes dance moves to the carnival-goers.
Once the daytime parades were complete, we headed over to St. Charles Avenue, a popular location to catch the Mardi Gras processions. The narrow roadway is barricaded to protect the crowds and it was already packed with people who had staked out their positions since early in the day, catching Iris and Tucks also. For the first time, I had opted to purchase tickets to the one of the many grandstands that line St. Charles Avenue and Canal Street. This one, at the Blake Hotel, was quite expensive, but I had opted to do this so that my friends did not have to spend the entire day camped out, giving us a place to sit and rest during the parade.
The Krewe of Endymion rolled through around 7:00 p.m. and though we had good seats for viewing, we discovered that they were not that optimum for catching the many hi-tech throws that come from the beautifully lit floats. The Blake Hotel has a balcony and because we were sitting on the highest part of the grandstand, most of the throws being cast higher up were going to the balcony. In addition, the hotel had promised designated bathrooms for the grandstand ticket holders, something very important when sitting for hours on a parade route and often imbibing on adult beverages. Instead of the more sanitary indoor bathrooms that were promised, we were instructed to use the long line of public port-o-lets next to Lafayette Square…no apologies offered.
Still, we tried to enjoy the $8 million parade’s 36 massive floats with their theme of “Wonder Tales of Science Fiction”. Heading the long line of floats bringing to life classic stories such as “Gulliver’s Travels”, “20,000 Leagues Under the Sea” and “War of the Worlds” was the Grand Marshal, that we were were excited to learn was popular recording artist Flo Rida.
The following day, weather threatened to hinder the festivities so the decision to remove the bands and troupes from each of the three parades was made as well as instituting a starting time of an hour earlier than originally planned. The Krewes of Okeanos, Mid-City and Thoth rolled along the parade route one after the other, anxious to complete their run before the skies opened up.
Our tickets at the Hilton’s grandstand were a great deal, offering seating for the three day parades as well as the night’s parade, Bacchus, for much less than the price of the Blake Hotel, plus clean indoor bathroom facilities. Arriving early, we opted to sit in the front row of the grandstand and were not disappointed. We were able to alternately sit and stand and enjoy Okeanos’ parade entitled “Okeanos Celebrates 70”, Mid-Citys’ “Mid-City Thinks Outside the Box” and Thoth’s, “Thoth Salutes the Greats”. Some of the unique throws were Okeanos’ 13-inch crawfish trays and 70th logo bracelets and beads, Mid-City’s vinyl stress man dolls, t-shirts and sunshades and Thoth’s signature fedora hats, rubber chickens, koozies, capes and scarfs. We were able to enjoy American Cajun fiddler and singer, Amanda Shaw performing on one of Thoth’s floats before the rain drops slowly started.
One of the things I have learned over the years is that when you have a good spot, don’t leave. Though my friends wanted to return to the hotel a few blocks away for a few hours, I knew that if we all left, we might return to our seats being taken and I also knew that the crowd in the grandstand, at the Hilton, for the popular night parade would become much more dense. Placing plastic sheeting along our seats to keep them dry and our bead bags to hold them in place, I hunkered down in the stairwell, while the winds whipped and the heavens poured for almost two solid hours.
Once the weather cleared and my friends returned, we watched for the telltale signs of the approaching Krewe of Bacchus. Not so hard when you have the WWL Mardi Gras Parade Tracker on your iPhone!
The Krewe of Bacchus is one of my favorites with their returning signature floats Bacchasaurus, King Kong, Queen Kong and Baby Kong (redesigned into the Kong Family float), Bacchagator and Bacchawhoppa floats. Some of the superkrewe’s other floats were based on movies and television shows filmed in Louisiana and the Grand Marshal was Jensen Ackles of the television series’ Supernatural.
Like Endymion, many of the night parade’s throws were luminous or fluorescent and included a lighted clapperboard, lighted Bacchus Oscars, the Kong (a 64-ounce King Kong-size cup), a Bacchawhoppa whale hat with a fiber optic water spout and throw back toys including a puzzle cube and a viewfinder.
Almost three hours after its start, the Krewe of Bacchus finally finished, wrapping up our fun Mardi Gras weekend.
If going to Mardi Gras is something that interests you, here are some things to consider:
Book a hotel on one of the main parade routes if possible. If you are able to run to your room for bathroom breaks and drinks, it will make your experience much easier.
If you can bring a step stool, it will give you a better vantage point and allow the float riders to see you better. There are new rules regarding ladders, however, and the ladders must be set back six feet from the curb.
There are quite a few grandstands to consider along the parade routes. Factors to consider are bathroom access and whether people are allowed to stand in front of the grandstands or if the grandstand forms part of the barricade. For the Hilton we were up high so no one could block our view, but other grandstands like Poydras A and B have a walkway in front of the grandstand. Access is first come, first serve and if you are on the bottom row, people are allowed to stand on the walkway against the barricade without paying for access to the grandstand and blocking your view.
Flashing for beads is not really something you see along the parade routes, so if you are attending with children, don’t worry. Most of the flashing is done in the French Quarter where the floats do not venture.
If you are going to New Orleans during Mardi Gras, expect long lines for restaurants and attractions. If those are the things that you are looking for, consider going at another time of year. If you are going to experience Mardi Gras, do just that! Enjoy the parades, especially the big ones, such as Endymion and Bacchus. It is such a unique experience that only can be experienced once a year.
If experiencing Mardi Gras on a smaller scale is more your speed, consider hitting some of the other celebrations and parades throughout the state. Baton Rouge, Lafayette and other cities offer larger scale parades throughout the season and places like Church Point and Mamou offer Courir de Mardi Gras, a traditional celebration.
Was it what my friends expected? I’m not sure…it’s a lot to take in as a first timer.
Was it all that I remembered? Yes!
As a Louisiana native and a kid at heart, I truly do believe in letting the good times roll and roll they did!
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Having been to many European markets, I know what makes a good one.
Variety!
Does the European inspired French Market in New Orleans measure up?
Absolutely!
Recently, while in the city, I headed down to the French Market to find some unique souvenirs. Though it was late afternoon in winter and some of the vendors had found it too cold to remain, I knew from previous visits that it is usually a quite lively venue.
Offering shopping, dining, music and local tradition, this open-air market has its origins in the Native American trade dating back to 1791. As French and Spanish colonists opened the market up to ships and traders from all over the world, this set up the stage for expansion during the next three centuries. Immigrants from Europe, Africa and the Caribbean, saw the opportunity to offer their own wares at the market, offering various products including Italian meats, fabrics, produce, African coffee and spices, and the bazaar continued to expand.
By the late 19th century, the French Market was in need of a makeover…one that would give it some order. Architect, Joseph Abeilard, designed a modern day structure which is still in use today.
In 1978, the former mayor, Ernest, N. Morial, made the decision to kick up the market’s appeal by introducing Dutch Alley, a pedestrian plaza at Dumaine and St. Phillip Streets. This addition included a performance tent, historic statues, the Dutch Alley Artist Coop and the visitor center for the New Orleans Jazz National Park.
Though I had just had lunch a couple of hours before, my stomach growled at the sights laid out before me and the smells that permeated the air. The famous Cafe du Monde, the outdoor cafe which specialized in beignets and cafe au lait, is nearby but I had already had an order of the powdered sugar covered fried dough the day before and I was itching for something new. Browsing the iconic dishes…Po Boys, Gator Burgers, Jambalaya, Cheese Grits, just to name a few, it was a hard decision knowing I had to leave room for dinner later. With my mind made up, I headed toward the counter for beignets…yes again…but this time from a small dessert establishment which specializes in Praline Beignets! Fried with the praline at the center, it all melts together in your mouth for an unbelievable culinary experience!
My stomach full and my strength replenished, I headed through the protracted market (five blocks in all!), stopping along the way to inspect the t-shirts, produce, specialty art, handmade crafts, prints, scrubs and lotions, handmade jewelry, accessories, photography and much more, offered for sale. Believe me, there’s not much that you can’t find here…you are only limited by the cash in your pocketbook!
If you are staying in a local home and are interested in making the most of your own culinary skills, then the Farmers Market Pavilion is your place! Open daily, this is the place to find seasonal vegetables and homegrown spices in addition to specialty foods with worldly inspirations, especially on Wednesdays and Sundays when vendors come from the entire region with their wares.
If you are visiting in the Spring, look out for the Creole Tomato Festival which is free to the public and offers an endless array of fresh picked tomatoes and tomato based dishes unique to the area.
New Orleans is called the Big Easy, but with so much to experience, especially at the French Market, it is definitely not easy! Grab a table, grab some food and grab the experience!
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Address: 700-1010 Decatur St, New Orleans, LA 70116
Hours: Daily, 0800-1730.
Admisssion: free
Getting There: Take the St. Charles streetcar from Uptown or the Canal Street streetcar from Mid-City and get off at Canal and Carondelet Street to walk a few blocks to the river. There are paid parking lots along S. Peters Street near Jackson Square.
One of my favorite events in New Orleans is Mardi Gras.
When my husband and I lived there, I counted down the days until Mardi Gras season would arrive and eagerly re-arranged my schedule to attend as many parades as possible.
The beads were such fun to catch, but we always loved finding out the themes of the parades (well-kept secrets in some cases), the identity of the grand marshals of the larger parades and how the floats would be elaborately decorated.
Many years have passed since we lived in New Orleans, and I always missed being there for the festivities. My feeble attempts at parades and celebrations at my children’s pre-schools and elementary schools did nothing to quell my desire to be where the action was.
In a few weeks, I will be back in the Crescent City to introduce Mardi Gras to a couple of my friends, but it wasn’t until a recent visit to New Orleans and Mardi Gras World that cemented those plans.
There are many types of tours offered in the New Orleans…historic tours, ghost tours, swamp tours…but the one offered at Mardi Gras World is for those with the desire to see what goes on behind-the-scenes at the one of the biggest parties in the world. Having heard about this venue, I thought it would be a fun and informative way to entertain myself while my husband was working and hey, they were offering free King Cake!
After giving Mardi Gras World a call, I was collected near my hotel at one of the designated pick-up spots in the French Quarter. The Mardi Gras World shuttle was clean and efficient, delivering us to their studios at their warehouse location along the river. We were greeted with colorful jesters at the entrance…signs of things to come!
Once the entrance fee was paid in the gift shop, we were instructed to wait at the appointed spot for the tour guide to lead the way. So many cool things to buy were taunting my checkbook, but I decided that it would have to wait until after the tour so as not to have to carry it around.
Taking us down a hallway, our guide ushered us into a large room, its walls lined with many papier mache props, some, donning colorful and elaborate Mardi Gras costumes.
A short introductory film briefed us on the history of the Kern family and how their design company, Blaine Kern Studios, came to be in 1947. When the film was complete, we were were offered that piece of King Cake that we were promised…a bit of sustenance for the long and exciting walk around the premises.
As we entered the warehouse, it was truly an overload on the senses! Mardi Gras is truly alive here, 24/7! Here, we learned just how much hard work and planning is involved to create the impressive floats that can be seen in the Mardi Gras parades.
I had always been fascinated with the details presented on the floats, but never given much thought to how they were made. Explaining how artists create the 3-D figures from thick pieces of styrofoam, then cover them with paper mache, we were actually privileged to see some of these artists hard at work doing just that. We also learned of the technological advances made in the design industry. Pixie, a sculpting robot, can develop a sculpture up to sixty feet long and build larger sculptures from smaller manufactures pieces. Floats can also be backed into the room and sculpted, one side at a time.
Technicians controlling Pixie the Robot
One of the most interesting aspects of the tour was the explanations of how pieces can be re-adapted to be used in future parades by simple modifications. Changing a hat and some facial features can create an entirely new character. Every piece created by Blaine Kern Studios is housed here and an amazing sight to see! From the figures of the band KISS, to animals, to historical figures, to major landmarks, to storybook characters…these colorful pieces of artwork fill every nook and cranny…some in various stages of development!
Finally, we were led to a larger part of the warehouse where some of the actual floats are staged. Our guide was extremely knowledgeable about the history of Mardi Gras and its customs and we learned some interesting facts, such as why there are mega floats (filled with up to 200 riders) and why it was decided that tractors would pull the floats. Let’s just say that parade organizers like loopholes in the city’s laws!
We were able to examine many floats at close range examining the papier mache pieces and fiber optic lighting that decorate and illuminate the massive vehicles. Although we were not allowed to board the floats, we did find out something interesting. Having to stay on the vehicles for long periods of time, have you ever wondered what the masked float riders do when they have to go to the bathroom? Yes, the floats are equipped with port-o-johns!
Finally, our guide set us loose and we were able to walk among the thousands of pieces of sculpture and indulge our inner photographer! If you can imagine it, it was probably there, a who’s who of sculptured characters…Buddha, Elvis, Saints’ Quarterback, Drew Brees, Captain Jack Sparrow, Little Red Riding Hood, Santa Claus and so many other amazing pieces! There were even elaborate Mardi Gras costumes to try on!
This New Orleans tour is an experience you will definitely not want to miss, especially if you have not had the opportunity to attend Mardi Gras. The unmasking of the greatest show on earth is truly worth the admission price…even for a former local, like me!
Bring your camera and your appetite!
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Getting There: By car, $15.00 parking fee. By free shuttle, provided by Mardi Gras World. Give them a call and they will pick you up at designated pick up areas throughout the French Quarter and Downtown areas.
As I stood before the regal, St. Louis Cathedral in the French Quarter, I watched a line of small schoolchildren, hand in hand, make their way to the entrance.
This brought me back to the day, when as a schoolchild on a field trip, I stood on this exact spot, mesmerized the city’s most notable landmark…one, known worldwide by its central position towering over iconic Jackson Square and its neighbors, the Cabildo and the Presbytere.
Though this beautiful cathedral is one for which the city is known, and is the oldest Catholic cathedral in continual use in the United States, few realize that The Cathedral-Basilica of St. Louis is actually the third Roman Catholic church to have stood on the site. When the city was founded, the first church erected here, in 1718, was a basic wooden structure for the early colonists’ worship. In 1725, the construction of a larger brick and timber church was begun and completed in 1727. When the Great New Orleans Fire ravaged the city in 1788, the church was destroyed. Rebuilding ensued and the new church was completed in 1794 with the church being elevated to cathedral rank. After a massive renovation to enlarge the structure was begun in 1849, resulting in the collapse of the central tower, it was finally decided to demolish most of the church resulting in very little of the Spanish Colonial structure remaining.
Today, what we can observe in Jackson Square dates back to 1850, however, the bell from the 1819 tower was reused and still there today.
The cathedral was designated a minor basilica by Pope Paul VI in 1965, but in front of the cathedral, you can spy a beautiful statue of Pope John Paul II, a gift of the Archdiocese of New Orleans and the American Italian Cultural Center. It was blessed by Pope Francis in Saint Peter’s Square and commemorates Pope John Paul II’s visit to the cathedral in 1987.
Entering the cathedral, I found the interior to be a well lit space though not as ornate one would expect. My eyes were immediately drawn upward to the beautifully detailed ceiling centered with a painting of St. Peter receiving his shepherd’s staff from the Savior and surrounded by apostles. Walking through the center aisle, I made my way to the great high Rococo style gilded altar flanked and topped by intricate statues. The three statues on the top represent faith, hope and charity and St. Paul, on the left of the tabernacle holds a book and St. Peter on the right, holds a book. Other statues with the cathedral depict St. Joan of Arc, Our Lady of Prompt Succor, St. Joseph, St. Anthony of Padua and the Sacred Heart of Jesus. In the foyer are statues of Mary, Queen of Poor Souls and St. Therese of Lisieux.
The cathedral is divided into nave and side aisles by two rows of wooden columns with an upper gallery lined with the flags of six countries and several local Catholic Dioceses. Passing through these columns, I made my way to the outer walls of the cathedral to inspect the beautifully rendered depictions of St. Louis IX, which tell stories of the saint’s life.
Glancing up at the organ, I admired its simplistic beauty. I later learned, however, that when Hurricane Katrina roared through the city in 2005, not much was spared including the cathedral. The powerful winds ripped a hole in the roof, which allowed water to enter, damaging the Holtkamppipe organ. The organ was sent back to Holtkamp to be rebuilt and finally reinstalled three years later.
Speaking with a volunteer docent, I also learned a couple of interesting tidbits about the cathedral. The cathedral contains the remains of eight New Orleans bishops. Another body buried in the church is Fr. Antonio de Sedella, commonly known as Père Antoine, who was a priest in the church. What is most intriguing about Père Antoine is that he loved his position at this particular location so deeply that he is alleged to haunt the premises. Accounts of parishioners and tourists claim that he walks the alley (named after him) next to the cathedral in the early mornings and appears during Christmas Midnight Mass near the left side of the altar, holding a a candle.
Another apparition often seen at the cathedral is that of Père Dagobert, a monk who resided in the church. If you visit on a rainy day, you might hear his voice chanting the Kyrie.
Although a Catholic house of worship, the cathedral has a rich history and appeals to visitors of all faiths and nationalities as evidenced by the large number of visitors meandering through the building while I was there. While wandering the French Quarter, have a look inside, attend Mass or better yet, try to get a glimpse of Père Antoine or Père Dagobert. All experiences you will never forget!
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Address: 615 Pere Antoine Alley, New Orleans, LA 70116
Hours: Daily, 0830-1600. Daily Mass, 12:05
Tours: Self-guided brochures are available in the entrance for a $1.00 donation. Visitors can get an impromptu tour from our volunteer docents when available. Guided tours for groups are only available with prior reservations.
Admission: free
Tours: Self-guided brochures are available in the entrance for $1.00 donation and impromptu tours are available from volunteer docents when present.
Getting There: By bus, lines #5 and #55. By streetcar, line #49, found at St. Anne Street, 5 blocks northwest of the cathedral.
And the heartbeat of New Orleans can most assuredly be heard in its centrum…Jackson Square.
When New Orleans was established as a French trading camp, it established its main boundaries along the Mississippi River, a prime location where eventually a river port was established.
Development ensued and the camp evolved into a formal colony with city blocks running perpendicular and parallel to the river. In the center of the development a one-block common area was conceded to the city, the Place d’Armes and it was designed by architect Louis Pilié .
As in many large cities, the square was a multi-use space generally gathering individuals to meet and to buy their wares at the open-air market. Military parades could also be seen marching through the space.
Today, it still operates in much the same way. Visitors from all over the world and locals flock to the square to enjoy its serenity and beauty. It is a place where you might find a couple of shop owners having a bite to eat under one of the shady oaks or two visitors from Italy, enjoying a beignet while savoring the river’s breeze. You can enjoy the occasional jazz band offering a spontaneous concert to garner a following or the impromptu parade that marches through, throwing beats or just simply dancing. Browsing the works of many of the local artisans is a personal favorite pastime of mine. Much of their art can be inspected hanging on the square’s fence or on small tables set up in the pedestrian area surrounding the square. You need to know what your future will bring next month? You can find fortune tellers, card readers in addition to various performers…drummers, tap dancer, puppeteers and singers!
As I walked through the old, iron gates, I marveled in the fact that despite some of the beautiful, slow growing, sago palms having grown significantly since my last visit, it appeared much the same as it did twenty-two years ago. What I was most surprised to see, however, was the statue of the former president of the United States, Andrew Jackson (after whom the square is named), still riding high on his trusted steed.
Last year, demonstrations were held in the city, which called for the removal of the statue which commemorates Jackson’s victory at the Battle of New Orleans in the War of 1812. Protesters were enraged of the glorification of the former President when he, in fact, owned slaves and was responsible for forcing Native Americans from their land while in office.
Walking out of the iron gates, I ambled around the square, marveling in the intricately laid flagstone put down in 1974 when the area became limited to pedestrian traffic.
Some beautiful and historic buildings surround Jackson Square, including St. Louis Cathedral, the Louisiana State Museums, the Presbytere and the Cabildo, which once acted as the governor’s mansion and the 1850 House. The oldest apartment buildings in the United States can be found here, the Lower and Upper Pontalba Apartments, which were built by the Baroness Pontalba, who lobbied for and financed a redesign of the public square in 1814. Though the upper level of the apartments are still partly residential, the ground floors are used for retail shops, museums, galleries and restaurants.
If the myriad of entertainment and shopping choices in Jackson Square is not enough for your taste, head across the street to the Washington Artillery Park overlook for not only beautiful views of The Big Muddy, the square and the Cathedral but for many shopping and dining opportunities next door at the Shops at Jax Brewery.
Transportation to and from the square is convenient and quite easy to get to from any place in the city. From the Convention Center area, you can take the Riverfront Streetcar for a unique transportation experience or from Jackson Square, enjoy the old world method of moving through the city. Grab one of the horse-drawn carriages that line up in front of Jackson Square on Decatur Street.
Whatever your reason for visiting the Crescent City, take the time to see where it all started…Jackson Square…the heart of New Orleans.
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As a young, Catholic girl in Louisiana, I attended Catholic school.
In my white shirt and pleated, dark navy skirt, I happily attended school every day, eager to learn not only the rudimentary lessons but the religious ones as well.
Though many of my teachers were non-clerical, I did have the privilege to be taught by a handful of nuns over the years. Sisters Martial, Cecilia, Fatima, Roland and David.
These nuns resided in the nearby convent and we always loved going there to help with projects and pray in the chapel. It was such a feeling of peace and a peek into a completely different way of life.
While traipsing around the French Quarter, I happened upon the Ursaline Convent and Museum. Disappointed to find that it had just closed for the day, I turned away eager to return as soon as possible. The next day, I was back, bright and early, to tour the oldest building in the Mississippi Valley that acted as home, orphanage and school for the Ursaline Nuns.
After LaSalle’s discovery of the mouth of the Mississippi, Father Nicolas Ignace de Beaubois (with the help of Governor Bienville) sought out the assistance of the Ursaline nuns to travel to France’s first settlement in the lower Mississippi Valley.
There was a great need for ministering at the poorly run hospital and also for the education of the young girls of the colony.
The nuns arrived in 1727 and the convent built for them was completed in 1734. After the city’s first Eucharistic procession, the nuns accompanied by notables and citizens, they moved into their new home which faced the river. The convent served as home and the center of operations for the hospital and school until the new convent on Chartres Street was completed in 1752.
This new convent, built slightly before the city’s grand Cathedral, was constructed in the French Colonial style. It has been described as “the finest surviving example of French Colonial public architecture in the country” by the National Parks Service.
It was this two-story white plastered brick building that I gazed upon as I entered through the old stone walls. But what set off this beautifully simple building was the green maze of a garden that lay before it. Stopping for a moment, I admired the old bell and the cast iron cross in the courtyard which was a gift of the city of Rouen, France to commemorate the arrival of the nuns.
Making my way between the hedges, I headed inside to see what I might find. Admiring the beautiful stained glass above the double doorway, I stepped into the foyer, taking in the wooden stairway, golden statue of Madonna and Child and a tall, wooden clock. This clock, I learned, was constructed from elements brought by the Ursalines in 1727. When the nuns were asked to establish a convent in Galveston, Texas in the 19th century, the community gifted it to them upon their departure. As a devastating hurricane swept through southern Texas in 1900, it took the lives of nine nuns, ninety students and thousands of residents. The clock survived, however, and was returned to New Orleans in the first decade of the 20th century.
The Ursaline Room was adjacent to the foyer and was originally the orphan’s dining room. Facing the river, these young residents could look out at the dark, fast moving Mississippi and realize that another life awaited them once they aged out of the orphanage. This room is now empty, save for a large statue and a handmade chasuble dating back to the 18th century. The original cypress ceiling beams are visible overhead.
It was here that I also learned of the Sweetheart statue. The small plastered statue was found in a convent attic in France by Sister Felicite. Despaired to see it so carelessly cast aside, she prayed for an immediate departure to the new French colony and was granted her leave almost immediately with the statue in tow. In 1788, this statue was placed by one of the nuns in the window of the convent as fire raged through New Orleans. The approaching fire was suddenly blown back by the wind and died out, keeping the convent safe. This statue has since then been credited with many astonishing miracles.
Making my way through what appeared to be a small sanctuary, I found myself inside St. Mary’s Church. This church was built in 1845 and served as the bishop’s chapel, the place of worship for the bishops and archbishops of New Orleans when they were in residence at the convent. It was the third chapel built on the site and it was interesting to learn that a bell tower that once stood at the location was destroyed by the 1914 hurricane.
The church was quiet and I made my way through admiring the beautiful altar, framed by angel and cherub statues. There were many other statues in church and the stations of the cross were distributed between the tall stained glass windows. It wasn’t until later during my tour, after talking with one of the staff that I learned that only one side of the church’s windows were authentic stained glass…the other side painted. I immediately went back to the church to seek out the window where it was discovered that it was not stained when cleaning and part of the bottom of the scene was rubbed off.
St. Mary’s Church Exterior
Exiting the chapel, I headed into the far side of the convent, where you can see some of the small cells where the nuns resided. One of these small rooms is currently being used as an administrative office and the others have been enlarged to house exhibitions. The most current being The Church In The Crescent: Three Hundred Years of Catholicism in New Orleans. This exhibit highlights the history of the city and the elegant St. Louis Cathedral. Emerging from a small wooden church to the present day construction, its story is displayed for visitors to examine in the form of photographs, portraits, letters and artifacts. Although I had already visited the Cathedral, after the watching the documentary available for visitors, there was so much explained about the interior of the building that I almost wanted to go back and take another look!
Finally, I headed outside to the space that is now being used for wedding receptions. Once a wedding has been finalized in the chapel, the bride, groom and guests can head out to the tented area at the rear of the convent for the reception.
Beyond the tented area, however, is what caught my attention…a grotto containing the Madonna and child and the life-sized statues of priests and nuns praying. Each statue’s expression was unique, but one of utter reverence. Absolutely breathtaking!
As a Catholic, I truly enjoyed my visit as it stirred up fond memories of my childhood, however, anyone interested in the rich history of the city and its architecture would truly be enthralled with this amazing museum. Pray your way there!
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I have been to some of the most famous cemeteries in the world; Pere Lachaise in France, La Recoleta in Bueno Aires, Monumentale in Milan, just to name a few. The history, architecture and craftsmanship that can be viewed in each of these places is unparalleled.
Having grown up in Louisiana, seeing graves that are raised above the ground is nothing new to me. Because the water table is so high, graves would fill with water and the buoyant casket would seek to float, eventually popping out of the ground. Because of this dilemma, it was decided, hundreds of years ago, that tombs would be built above the ground to house the departed. Some tombs were (and still are) built to accommodate one casket and others, built on a grander scale could accommodate an entire family…some so large that they resemble small homes or chapels. Visitors to the south, however, are intrigued with our burial system and some of the most beautiful and immense tombs can be found in many of the New Orleans cemeteries…a sort of city of the dead.
St. Louis Cemeteries 1 and 2, located near the French Quarter, are both on the National Register of Historic Places and feature the tombs of several historic individuals and families including Voodoo Queen Marie Laveau, Henriette Delille, Foundress of the Sisters of the Holy Family (presently awaiting canonization), Daniel Clark, financial supporter of the American Revolution and Jacques N.B. de Pouilly, architect of the St. Louis Cathedral.
Since I have seen some of the most famous cemeteries in the world, it was a given that I had to visit the most notable one in New Orleans, St. Louis Cemetery #1. Located a short walk from the city’s French Quarter, it was quite easy to locate, however, once I arrived, I was informed that I would be required to join a tour. With over 100,000 visitor’s each year, the cemetery has been subject to extreme vandalism. Hoping to preserve the sanctity of the cemetery, guests are now required to enter the premises with a licensed guide.
Paying my admittance fee, I waited patiently for the tour to start and was soon joined by Australians, Ethiopians and Italians, proving that curiosity about the oldest cemetery (built in 1789) and its inhabitants has a worldwide reach.
Eagerly following our tour guide, Steve, as he wove his way around the monumental tombs, we first learned how economical vaults were built into the cemetery walls. It was quite interesting to see the wall vaults stacked one above the other, with some now only partially visible near the ground, evidence that the below sea level city is sinking. These vaults contain the remains of many family members within the tomb. After the family member passes, the remains go untouched for a year and a day and then are pushed to the rear of the vault, making room for the next unfortunate soul.
In the center of the property. we witnessed white walls and roofs blocking our view of the entire cemetery. Here, the larger crypts also hold many family members within their massive walls.
With the cemetery being one of the oldest in the city, it is a given that many of the graves are in various states of repair…some taken care of by family, some by volunteers, some by process of having purchased Perpetual Care and many long forgotten. Crumbling and overgrown with moss and fern, the former graves’ appearance lends itself to the creepy image that many envision when thinking of old cemeteries and though you would think that many a horror movie would be shot here, filming is not allowed.
We waited patiently for our turn to stand in front of one of the most famous gravesites in St. Louis #1…the location where it is believed that Marie Laveau is entombed…next door to the former mayor, Dutch Morial, the first African American to hold the office. Laveau’s grave is marked with faded Xs, once a common practice in petitioning the deceased soul. It was believed that the Voodoo priestess would grant your wish if you marked the tomb, placed your hand over it, rubbed your foot three times against the bottom, placed some silver coins in the cup. Since this is actually desecration of a gravesite, it is evidently one of the reasons why visitors are only allowed in the cemetery with an escort.
We passed the tomb of Paul Morphy, who passed away in 1884 at the age of 47, and is considered to have been the greatest chess master of his era. Considered a chess prodigy, he was described by Bobby Fischer as “perhaps the most accurate player who ever lived”. His grave is aptly marked with chess pieces.
As we turned to head further into the cemetery, we could all see the tip of what appeared to be a pyramid. In much newer condition that most of the other tombs, we were informed that it belongs to the actor Nicolas Cage. Though he now resides in Las Vegas, the performer once lived in New Orleans, at 1140 Royal Street (believe it or not!) in the LaLaurie Mansion! His pyramid presently stands dignified but empty, awaiting his demise.
How is it that someone like Nicholas Cage gets to be buried in St. Louis #1? Well, if you have $40,000, you can too. The steep price will buy you a plot next to some of New Orleans’ most notorious residents.
Following our guide, we continued on to the towering Italian Mutual Benevolent Society’s marble tomb, which was designed by architect Pietro Gualdi in 1857. Designed in the Baroque style, it includes three elegantly carved marble statues of female figures; one holding a cross crowning the top, one in a niche above the engraving “Italia” and another out of view in a niche on the left representing “Charity”. It contains 24 vaults which were for the temporary use of the society’s members whose bones would remain in the tomb for about a year and then removed and placed in a receptacle in the tomb’s basement. Nearby, are the Portuguese Burial Society and the New Orleans Musicians Tombs which operate on the same premise at the Italian Benevolent Society, giving those of the association a place to be buried.
At the rear of the cemetery, we were directed to the Protestant section, which was assigned to the Christ Church (Episcopal) for the burial of non-Catholics. All that remains of this area, however, is the area between the wall vaults and some brick walls. Between 1822-1838, the burials from the Protestant section, which extended beyond the back wall, were transferred to the Girod Street Cemetery to make way for neighborhood development. What I found interesting, however, was that non-Catholic burials have always been allowed in any part of the cemetery and some Catholics were actually buried in the Protestant section.
Nearby, we found the grave of Étienne de Boré, a local plantation owner and an important person to the sugar cane industry famous for producing the first granulated sugar in Louisiana. Making the sugar cane crop profitable for local farmers, the industry still continues strong today with more than 400,000 acres of land in 22 Louisiana parishes producing approximately 13 million tons yearly and employing about 17,000 employees.
It was quite interesting and yet peaceful to walk among the decrepit graves in the cold, winter morning and I thought it a pity that others’ desecration of the cemetery had made it hard for those of us who might like to take their time wandering among the lesser know grave sites instead of being ushered along by our guide in his attempt to keep the tour at the allotted forty-five minute limit.
The cemetery has been preserved as best as it can be and with the new fees imposed by the Archdiocese, it is the hope that the cemetery will be available for all to enjoy for hundreds of years to come. Security has been added and through the hard work of the caretakers, St. Louis Cemetery #1 will remain open to the public. One caretaker devoted most of his life to the care and preservation of this historic place, Alexander “Buddy” Anspecker. Working in the location for 41 years, he could always be counted on for his dedication and descriptive tours of the historic tombs.
Finally, however, I learned something very interesting…something that brought my adventures full circle.
The day before I had sought out the LaLaurie Mansion on Royal Street. Earlier in the tour, I learned that actor Nicolas Cage had resided in the LaLaurie Mansion. On this day, however, I learned that though it was thought that Madame Marie Delphine LaLaurie had died in France, in a boar-hunting accident, a caretaker of the cemetery, Eugene Backes (many years before “Buddy”), discovered an old cracked, copper plate in Alley 4 of the cemetery. The inscription read, “Madame Lalaurie, née Marie Delphine Maccarthy, décédée à Paris, le 7 Décembre, 1842, à l’âge de 6–.” declaring that perhaps, Madame LaLaurie had returned from France to rest among the distinguished departed residents of St. Louis #1.
Though we were not made privy to the location of this copper plate, it gives rise to the notion that New Orleans’ history is quite complex and interwoven.
The walk to St. Louis Cemetery #1 is a short one and although the price a bit steep for the tours offered, keep in mind that the money is helping to preserve this treasure. Though you would never catch me in a cemetery at night, especially within a city rich in the Voodoo culture and alive with many superstitions, I was pleasantly surprised at the vast array of prominence laid to rest here. Definitely worth the visit in light of its history!
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Yes, one year, for Halloween, I dressed as a Voodoo Priestess, complete with voodoo dolls attached to my cloak, each representing one of the friends invited to my party.
Naturally, those who were late or didn’t show, got a pin through the head or heart!
Of course, how I dressed was my own idea of what a Voodoo priestess should look and I had no idea of how to make an authentic voodoo doll. However, growing up in Louisiana, we had always heard of the culture and beliefs of voodoo and how someone had had the gris gris (bad luck) put upon them. Now, gris-gris is actually a talisman or amulet that someone wears to protect themselves from evil and bad luck, but as children, we sometimes misconstrued the stories we heard from our grandparents as they told them, sometimes in their Cajun French language!
While staying in the French Quarter with my husband, I decided to seek out all of the touristy things that I had never taken the time to do when I lived just outside the city many years ago. The New Orleans Historic Voodoo Museum was at the top of my list and I looked forward to learning about the Louisiana branch of Voodoo brought to the city back in the 1700s through the African slave trade.
In 1972, local artist, Charles Massicot Gandolfo, started the museum, as it was his wish to share his passion for all things Voodoo. Not flashy or large by any scale, it is labeled by a modest sign hanging from the upper balcony on Dumaine Street. As I walked in, I was surprised to find it even smaller than I had anticipated and filled with artifacts and items offered for sale, including authentic voodoo dolls, chicken feet, snake skins, Voodoo Love Potions, books and candles. Yikes! The only chicken feet I would ever take home would be from the grocery store’s meat section!
Paying the attendant my entry fee, I moved toward the hallway to begin my self-guided tour. The hallway was extremely narrow and visitors turned sideways to allow each other access to the space. There were many pictures in the hallway depicting Voodoo priestesses, including the famed Marie Laveau, Melvina Latour and Sanité Dédé, who used to practice her rituals in her home’s courtyard down the street. Marie Laveau’s kneeling bench, which was used in her altar room in her home on St. Ann Street, sits underneath her picture.
The museum is packed with information and examples of voodoo history and practices, but when I say packed…I really mean packed. The two small rooms in the rear are filled with masks, statues, artifacts and altars heavily laden with items placed upon it as petitions to the Voodoo spirits for intercession and favors…cigarettes, money, coins, pictures, keys, small statues and toys, Mardi Gras beads, eye drops (yes, someone must have cried quite a bit begging for a favor). You name it, the rooms were stuffed with so many items, it really was quite overwhelming!
As a collector of African masks, I found the ones present in the museum quite interesting to analyze as many of these were extremely old…not the kind I would ever bring into my own home. Call me superstitious, but Voodoo has its roots in African culture and I have always believed that these items sometimes carry spirits within them.
As well as instructions on how to make voodoo dolls, there were many skulls and bones throughout the museum, even a complete skeleton donning a top hat as well as well as a preserved alligator head and alligator claw…I could envision that many visitors might feel quite uncomfortable if the idea of death is not compelling to them. Hopefully, however, they understand what kind of museum it is before visiting.
My visit was short and slightly enlightening. Not a fan of small spaces, I was more than ready to leave and head to the burial place of Marie Laveau, St. Louis Cemetery Number One.
As I sat for a moment reading the handout that was given to me to explain the museums inclusions, I began speaking with the lady at the front desk. In addition to visiting the museum, I learned that you can also book psychic readings and Prognosticating (fortune telling), arts that are deeply ingrained within the fabric of Voodoo culture. Having already seen many people offering psychic readings throughout the French Quarter, I think that if I was interested in finding information about my future, this would be the place to come…a little more authentic than the street corner.
But, since a reading was not in my future, it was time to head on to bigger and better things. And New Orleans has many!
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Admission: $7.00 General Admission, $5.50 Seniors, Military, College Students, $4.50 High School Students, $3.50 Under Age 12, Free Entrance to the Gift Shop
