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The palace of Inca Roca.
Ever hear of it?
Perhaps if you lived during Incan times.
Today, the Inca Roca palace is known as the Archbishop’s Palace or The Religious Art Museum.
Located a short distance from Plaza de Armas, on the famous Hatunrumiyoc Street, the museum is located on the site which was once the home of the Marquis of San Juan de Buenavista and later the Archbishop of Cusco. Transformed into a museum in the 1960s, the site attracts thousands of visitors interested in the both the Colonial and Moorish architecture of the building as well as the religious artifacts housed in the museum. Dedicated to 17th and 18th century religious art by important Peruvian and Andean artists, the main draw for many visitors, however, is the historic palace setting.
As we walked up the street, we noticed many people taking pictures near the stone perimeter wall of the museum. We learned that one particular stone interested them, “The Stone of 12 Angles” an archaeological artifact, considered to be a national heritage object.
After validating our Religious Ticket, we entered the museum first, noticing (again) not only the NO PHOTOS sign, but the cloistered Renaissance courtyard, decorated with a tranquil fountain, stone arches and walls decorated with blue and white tiles. Many visitors were sitting here enjoying a quiet moment away from the busy streets of Cusco.
Surrounding the courtyard, inside the classical mansion, are a series of corridors filled with colonial furniture, chapels and important works of masters of Andean painting, including Juan Zapata. There are many valuable religious masterpieces such as a painting of Christ’s crucifixion by Alonso Cano, entitled Granada and paintings by the Cusqueno Marcos Zapata, one Ayacuchana painting and a Quitena painting.
An important relic, a small organ of two processing refined bellows occupies one of the smaller rooms. This organ was the first ever to come to Peru for the cathedral.
The architecture is exceptional with a door in arabesque style, doorways in the Moorish style, carved cedar ceilings and spectacular stained-glass windows and a beautiful gold-filled chapel.
The one thing that we noticed, however, was the lack of information displayed on what we were seeing. Much of what we gleaned from our visit was from a bit of research later.
The museum was small, but interesting to see…rather enjoyable having another location to discover something new about Cusco’s history and to occupy some time during our day. Not sure if I would have sought it out on my own, but worth the time since it was included in our Religious ticket and a plus for those interested in architectural styles.
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Museum of Religious Art
- Address: Located on the corner of Hatunrumiyoq Street and Herrajes street.
- Hours: 0800-1800, daily.
- Admission: Adult, S /. 15.00 (about $4.45 US). Student: S /. 7.50 (about $2.20 US). Admission with the Religious Ticket (also incorporating three other churches ), S /. 30.00 (about $10.50 US). Also included with the Cusco Tourist Ticket.
Cathedral of Cusco (Basilica Cathedral of the Virgin of Asuncion)
- Address: Plaza de Armas
- Hours: 1000 to 1800, daily.
- Admission: Adult, S /. 25.00 (about $7.38 US). Student: S /. 12.50 (about $3.70 US). Admission also with the Religious Ticket (also incorporating two other churches and museum), S /. 30.00 (about $10.50 US).
Templo San Blas
- Address: Plazoleta de San Blas, Cusco
- Hours: 1000-1800, daily
- Admission: Adult, S /. 15.00 (about $4.45 US). Student: S /. 7.50 (about $2.20 US). Admission with the Religious Ticket (also incorporating two other churches and museum), S /. 30.00 (about $10.50 US).
Church of San Cristobal
- Address: Avenue Don Bosco
- Hours: 1000-1800, daily
- Admission: Adult, S /. 15.00 (about $4.45 US). Student: S /. 7.50 (about $2.20 US). Admission with the Religious Ticket (also incorporating two other churches and museum), S /. 30.00 (about $10.50 US).
As we entered and paid our admission, once again, I noticed that photography was not allowed. No…not even without a flash.
After we began our self-guided tour and began to see the unimaginable beauty presented in this “Mother Church”, I was even more disappointed about the No Photography rule.
Another spectacular piece, which can be spied from the outside, in the north tower, is the famous Maria Angola bell. Weighing over 13,000 pounds and standing just over seven feet, the bell, cast in 1659 was named, according to local tradition, after an Angolan slave who threw gold into the crucible where the bell was being made. Now cracked, it is only rung on special occasions and can be heard reportedly from more than 20 miles away.
The cathedral attracts thousands of visitors each year and includes a visit to the adjoining Church of Triumph (Iglesia del Triunfo) which was built in 1538, three years after the conquistadors settled in Cusco. The statue of St. James, slaying an Inca, sits atop the church as a tribute to the belief that this patron saint of Spain played a major role in the Spanish miraculously driving back the Incas during a siege from 1533 and 1536.
Also attached to the church, and included in the visit to the cathedral, is the Church of Jesus, Mary and Joseph, a great place to see the art work of colonial Peruvian Inca artists.
After a brief introduction, he uttered those words I hate…”pictures are not allowed”.
As we stood in the choir loft of the church, carved of cedar by local Franciscan Friar Luis Montes, Isisdro Fernandez Inka and Antonio Paz, we admired what we could see below in the dimly lit space…the Latin cross plan with three naves and topped with a high square tower. Inquiring of the opening hours so that I might return, we were told that although hours were posted, they are not always reliable.
Down the road, we headed a short distance, and with the hilly terrain, were glad we didn’t have to walk. Arriving at Q’enqo, our tickets were punched and we entered the premises. Though there wasn’t much signage to let us know what we were seeing, we made our way through the site.
What we learned later, from the book the cab driver gave to us to look through, was that the site was the smallest of the four ruins and was built as a house and ceremonial site for an important Inca citizen. Nestled into a large rock on Socorro Hill, we entered from the rear of the site and found a fully intact ritual altar…a dark reminder of the sacrificial practices of the Incas.
The drive to our next destination wasn’t an extremely long one and we were soon arriving at the former military fortress of Puka Pukara. Located high above Cusco, the small site offers panoramic views of the surrounding mountains and was probably built there to give the military a great view over important parts of the empire. The site consists of large walls, terraces and staircases and is well marked, guiding you throughout.
Just across the highway was the ruins of Tambomachay. A short walk from the road, we anxiously quickened our pace, worried that we would not be able to see everything marked on the map given to us at the entry during our allotted twenty minutes.
Keeping a close eye on the time, it seemed much too soon as we made our way back to the parking area to meet our ride back into town.
As we walked through the large plaza area, Edmundo explained that it was capable of holding thousands of people and was designed for ceremonial activities. The massive terrace walls were the main attraction here, however. The stones used in the wall’s constructions are among the largest used in any building in pre-Hispanic American and so precisely cut and fitted that not even a piece of paper can be inserted between them. The longest wall is approximately 400 meters long and 6 meters tall and appears to be a sort of three dimensional jigsaw puzzle with its largest stone weighing more than 360 tons and 29 feet high. Edmundo pointed out many stones that were cut and placed, forming shapes…a puma’s paw, a llama, a snake, a guinea pig and a bird…shapes we would never have seen had we not had a guide.
As we stood high over the city, the sky darkened and lightening began to flash. So exposed to the elements, we were a bit nervous, however, as accustomed to the ever-changing weather, Edmundo continued his monologue, guiding us through the site, informing us that Sacsayhuamán once had three towers and a labyrinth of rooms large enough to accommodate 5,000 Inca soldiers.
Making our way back down to the parade ground, where the Inti Raymi winter solstice festival is held every June and attended by tens of thousand of spectators, we crossed the massive area over to the Rodadero which was believed to be the religious and ceremonial section. Most of the structures once at the Rodadero were torn down by the Spaniards and later inhabitants of Cusco. We were led down below ground through a passage, ducking our heads to make our way through and emerging above ground in another area. Fun as that was, the best part was coming across the high, smooth rocks that descended in a wavy pattern. Edmundo led me carefully uphill and had me sit. Scooting forward, I began to slide down, faster and faster until I reached the bottom! Yes, the Incas surely must have had fun on this!
As we disembarked and made our way to the entrance, there were many guides seeking to assist visitors. Although we had originally thought we would hire a guide, when we finally made a decision on one particular person, someone hired them before we could. We finally decided to tour the premises on our own, a decision I realized would probably benefit me more than my husband. When I am trying to capture a place photographically, I always feel a bit disrespectful when I am shooting while they are speaking, however, if I don’t capture what I want to and we quickly move on, I feel a bit cheated. Since, it would have been just him and I, it would have been more evident that I was only half listening than when we were part of a group.
As we made our way up the Cultivation Terraces, we found our way to the City Gate and then on to the Cemetery, Funerary Rock and the House of the Guardians, finding that some amazing views of Machu Picchu can be had here.
Half an hour later, we returned to find an even greater number of people on the premises, making descent to the lower portion of Machu Picchu difficult. Spying llama nearby, we used them as a distraction for a while to rest up for the fight down the stairways.
Following the crowds, we made our way past the Temple of the Three Windows, the Main Temple and the Main Square with park directors keeping everyone on the path and moving in one direction. Eventually, we made it to the Sacred Rock and noticed the entrance to Huayna Picchu, the starting point to an arduous climb to the soaring pinnacle. Though we had had the opportunity to purchase tickets for the climb, staring up at this peak and the minuscule figures making their way up the steep paths, we were glad that we had skipped that part. Though I am not afraid of heights, I couldn’t image making my way up to the top…I was having trouble with the lack of oxygen in the higher altitudes on some of the simpler paths.
Once we checked back with our hotel, we were led through the maze of stairways and hallways leading up to our room on one of the top floors at the rear of the property. Dark wood and white plaster walls were complimented with brightly, woven fabrics. The place was neat and clean and we had a small balcony to sit and enjoy the surrounding mountain walls.
After settling in, we set out to see the town. Consisting of a main square, Plaza Manco Capac, and small passageways set into the mountainside, a railway line cuts through the western part of the town, running northwest to south, most important to the town’s viability. As we walked along the tracks, we watched the town in action, loading and unloading supplies brought in from larger Peruvian cities. Occasionally, the Explorer and Vistadome trains rumbled through and once, we even saw the Hiram Bingham glide by with its 1920’s-style carriages, finished with polished wood and brass. Inside, we could see tables set with white table cloths and fine china and the Observation Car where fortunate travelers can watch the Peruvian countryside with no barrier between them and the fresh air. It was nice to see, as with the prices charged for that type of adventure, it was as close as we were going to get!
We took a walk along Avenida Hermanos Ayar to see where the buses would pick us up in the morning for our trek to Machu Picchu. Buses of weary tourists were arriving from that day’s mountain adventure and it was exciting to think that in a little more than twelve hours, we were going to be setting out from this spot for our adventure of a lifetime.
Next, we made our way up the steep hill toward the hot springs. Although we had brought swimsuits, we decided on the advice of a friend, to skip this adventure. She said that the best time to visit is in the morning when the waters are fresher and not contaminated by the sweaty hikers who have descended from Machu Picchu and the Inca Trail. We checked out the entrance and the shops that rent swimsuits, sandals and towels. Reading up on the attraction later, we found reviews not so favorable, ranging from complaints of urine smells, mold and scum floating on the surface, so we were extremely glad that we had decided against a visit.
Finally, out last stop was the Mercado Artesanal. A vast labyrinth of stalls filled with t-shirts, jewelry, alpaca sweaters, bags, hats and other trinkets, it was confusing yet amusing to peruse this market and we picked up a few things for our children and ourselves.
Though our stay in Aguas Calientes was a short one, I thought the town to be quite charming and glad that we had given ourselves enough time to enjoy it. Once I had posted pictures taken during our stay, another friend confided to me that they had done one of the tours of the Sacred Valley, which had them arriving in Aguas Calientes after dark, departing for Machu Picchu early in the morning and returning to town, only to catch the train and return to Cusco. She loved my pictures and felt like she had been short-changed, wishing that she had had some time to wander around the small town. That being said, we also spoke with another couple who had decided to stay in Aguas Calientes for two nights. With so little to do other than Machu Picchu, they considered two nights to be a bit much.
Having opted to catch the train from the nearby Poroy Station, we set out early in the morning by taxi. As we neared the station, our cab driver attempted to communicate with us and with his limited Spanish, we were concerned that he was lost. Finally, as we pulled into the station parking lot, we learned that he wanted to know our return time the next night so he could pick us up. As I negotiated the price, I felt some relief knowing that upon our arrival, we would not have to hope for transportation back to our hotel.
Almost four hours from the start of our journey in Poroy, we felt the train slowing once again as we pulled into the station at Aguas Calientes, Machu Picchy Station. So excited to begin our exploration of a new part of Peru, we grabbed our bags and headed out, eager to see what this small town had to offer.
Bracing myself for the lack of oxygen required for the climb, we followed our guide and the rest of the Pachamama Group (Mother Earth), as we were now known. Tickets purchased and validated, we were led up another hill past a small market offering colorful blankets, hats and trinkets to a plaza in front of a beautiful adobe church.
Though we were only able to inspect the church’s exterior, we learned that it was constructed in 1607 by the Spanish on the site of an Incan palace, believed to be that of Inca Tupac Tupanqui. The interior was described to be quite lovely with ornate painted ceilings and Catholic and traditional motifs.
Moving on to the open area past the church, we gazed out onto the beautiful, green, mountainous landscape and the fertile terraces and aqueducts, many still in use today. Produce grown on the land includes potatoes, olluco, oca, quinoa and fava beans and are sold at the local market. The ruins of the summer palace of Tupac Tupanqui can still be seen spilling down the hillside with splendid stonework and a stone throne with intricate carvings.
After boarding our bus, we headed a short distance down the road into the center of Chinchero. Home to the Interpretation Center of Andean Textiles, the traditionally dressed women of the village offer weaving demonstrations to visitors, describing the age-old methods of making colors for the wool, and how the wool is washed, dyed and spun.
After a vibrantly woven hat caught my eye, I made a deal with one of the young men working on the premises and then exited to the bus for our next stop, Moray.
Located about 27 kilometers from Chinchero, Moray, is believed to have been used as an agricultural laboratory by the Incas. Though not much more is known, there is speculation that the amphitheater-looking, circular, terraced depressions were used to test and experiment with crops. With temperature differences at each level of the terraces of 15 degrees Celsius, it is believed that each level was used to grow different crops and to test hybridization. Possibly, the many variations of potato grown in Peru originated at Moray.
The mineral-rich (magnesium, iron, calcium and zinc) salt is said to have healing properties and claim to help reduce stress and prevent conditions such as anemia and osteoporosis, in addition to being handy in the kitchen.
Continuing our journey in the mid-day, it was time to head to Urubamba and our lunch. Our group was divided into three and we were all dropped off at different restaurants, though I am not sure what differentiated us into these groups, guessing that it may have been the price we paid for each of our tours. My husband and I and two other couples were deposited at Inka’s House, a large buffet-style restaurant. The food was good at our lunch spot, though others claimed their restaurant was not very good.
As I began the arduous task of making my way to the top, I decided to revel in the climb and enjoy the view every time I had to stop for a breath. Slowly, I climbed, joining forces with another woman, who also insisted she couldn’t make it to the top. With much encouragement for each other, I finally caught up to my husband to the entrance to the temple complex, a short distance from the top.
The Temple of the Sun, an incomplete holy place holds the Wall of the Six Monoliths with its 50 ton stones and is the sight where all the tourists want to take their picture, showing the completion of their ascent. The temple was used as a calendar with its sun dials and other features.
Exiting the fortress area, we made our way through the Mercado Turistico. Taking a quick glance around, it was a colorful affair and we wished that time was included in our itinerary to browse the vendor’s stalls. Quickly grabbing two waters, we fought the crowds to keep up with our group and make our way back to our bus. Once on board, we discovered a few empty seats. No, we hadn’t lost anyone on the mountain, some of our group left us at this point to catch the train to Aguas Calientes, beginning their sojourn to Machu Picchu.
Making our way out of town, we headed up into the mountains. Our guide explained that since the gates to Pisac close at 4:00, we had to drive rather quickly in order to enter. Watching the clock closely as the day was coming to a close, we finally arrived with minutes to spare. Making our way to the parking area, we exited the bus an followed our guide up the terraced hillside to the citadel which sits at 9,751 feet, keeping watch over the village below.
The wind was strong here and as the day was drawing to a close, we quickly walked through the site back to the parking lot and waiting bus, pausing to pose for a quick photo under the entrance sign.
Our last stop was in the town of Pisac, one that I had been very excited about. I had heard great things about their famous market and looked forward to purchasing some unique souvenirs. However, as we drove down the mountain, the sky was growing dark leading me to realize that the market would probably be closing upon our arrival. My prediction was accurate, but we were brought to a jewelry store for a lesson on assessing the quality of silver. Since it was communicated in Spanish, we attempted to understand, however, it was easier to browse the merchandise.