The Largest Clock Tower

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

After visiting Zurich’s Predigerkirche, I was on a quest to make it to the last of the city’s four major churches that I had not visited before the end of the day.

The Church of St. Peter’s.

Problem was, there were so many photos to take in the beautiful Neumarkt area that I kept getting sidetracked!

Finally, crossing the river, it was easy to find the oldest parish church in Zurich. Standing on the former site of an ancient Roman temple to the god Jupiter, the church’s clock tower is said to be the largest in Europe and can be spied from most locations within the city. With a clock face measuring almost nine meters in diameter, it is an amazing site to behold!

Arriving at the church, we discovered, as did other tourists arriving at the same time, that the entrance was opposite of where we thought.

Making our way down the stairs, through the alley and back up another set of stairs, we finally found a courtyard with some interesting art pieces. Not even convinced that this was the entrance, we made our way inside to discover what makes this church interesting.

In 1345, the church was acquired by the city’s first mayor, Rudof Brun. His grave and monument can be seen by the outer tower wall. The first pastor, Leo Jud, served from 1523 until 1542 and contributed to the first translation of the Bible in Zurich. The church’s second pastor, J.C. Lavater, served from 1778 until 1801 and was so popular that people reserved seats for Sunday mass. His gravestone is in the courtyard, to the left of the entrance, on the church wall.

As I walked into the church, I noticed immediately the similarities between St. Peter’s and the Predigerkirche. The first church in Zurich that was built as a Protestant place of worship, after the Reformation during the eighth century, St. Peter’s exhibits the same elegant, simplicity although its tower and choir date back from a Romanesque church built in 1230.

During the Middle Ages, the short spire windows of the tower was the home of the town watchman, whose duty was to look out of the windows every fifteen minutes for signs of fire. Should a fire be spotted, he would sound an alarm and hang a flag out of the window facing the fire. Since Zurich, unlike so many other cities, never endured a major fire, the system worked well.

As I walked through the interior of the church, I took note of the three-aisled Baroque nave and the Romanesque choir that still contains some faded medieval murals. Above the pulpit, the name of God in Hebrew can be spotted, reflecting the Reformation emphasis on the original biblical languages. Another important feature of the church is the original 9th century foundation walls which can still be seen beneath the chancel.

In addition, St. Peter’s contains a baptismal font, dating back to 1598 and richly carved choir chairs from the 15th century. These chairs were transported to the church from the suppressed convents of the city. Make sure to take a look upward at the beautiful crystal chandeliers and the wood paneled gallery.

Even though, I initially thought that St. Peter’s was so very like the Predigerkirche, I learned from my visit that this church had a much richer history and much more to discover in its interior.

If you are taking a stroll through the streets of Zurich, take a look upward, find the largest clock tower and head that way! Its worth the visit!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

St. Peter’s Church

  • https://www.st-peter-zh.ch/home.html
  • Address: St. Peterhofstatt 2, 8001 Zürich, Switzerland
  • Hours: Monday-Friday, 800-1800, Saturday, 1000-1600, Sunday, 1100-1700
  • Admission: free
  • Getting There: Tram, stop Paradeplatz

For The Price Of A Train Ticket

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Where would you go for the price of a train ticket?

Rome has set the bar very high for me as far as Italian cities go. I never tire of walking through the city and finding that around every corner there is something bigger and better. I don’t ever feel as though I need to venture outside of the city.

Milan, however, was never a place that I could find footing with. In fact, I would complain (to anyone who would listen) about how much I hated going there. I always felt like I had to work extra-hard to find the things that make it Milan…and it was never just around the corner.

Over the years, I have done research and found those outstanding and sometimes hidden gems that make Milan special…there were more than I ever imagined and more of which I hope to come. Lately, however, I have stumbled upon an interesting fact. The trains in Milan are relatively inexpensive.

For the price of a train ticket, I could venture outside of Milan and discover so much more. That inexpensive ticket opens up lots of possibilities with so many charming Italian cities nearby that you can explore.

Having visited the city of Pavia, about a 45 minute journey from Milan, I had heard about Certosa di Pavia, one of the largest monasteries in Italy. In fact, I had seen it in the distance from my window on the train when I visited Pavia. Filling the skyline in the countryside, it appeared imposing and mysterious…I had to buy a train ticket to check it out!

Getting to the monastery was quite easy. The subway near my hotel, brought me to Garibaldi station and from there I was able to take a train straight to the Certosa di Pavia station. One there, it was about a 12-15 minute walk, following the path around the high monastery walls to the entrance.

Having discovered that a tour was offered at the opening times in Italian only, I was a bit disappointed that there were no others in English. Someone, however, gave me a bit of advice…take the tour in Italian. Even if you don’t understand any of it, you will get to see parts of the monastery that are not open to those not taking part in the tour.

Time to muster all of my Italian…and I promise, there’s not enough in my repertoire to understand a guide on a tour.

There were many visitors congregating at the entrance and right on schedule, someone was there to open the gates and allow everyone in.

Now, I have been to the Duomo in Milan many times and to this day, I am still awe-struck by its beauty and intricacies. This place definitely gives the Duomo a run for its money! Towering above the grass courtyard, it simply takes your breath away! Every nook and cranny of the structure’s facade is filled with reliefs, statues and inlaid carvings and you want to stand there and take in every minute detail.  

Heading inside, however, I was on a mission to make sure that I did not miss the tour. Mouth gaping at the larger than life-size statues dominating the dimly lit space, I obliged when beckoned by the monk behind the gates at the rear of the church.

Starting at the left side structure, our tour commenced with a request…no photographs. It was interesting however, to realize that the monks who reside in the monastery now are of the order of the Cistercians, those who have taken a vow of silence. How is it that this Cistercian monk was giving us a tour? It was later, that I learned that some of the monks have been released from their vow for the sole purpose of giving guided tours.

Moving throughout the spaces behind the gates, the monk guided us though each of the areas within the church probably informing our tour group of the important details about the church’s inception.

(My Italian lacking severely, I was busy sneaking photos, not even trying to comprehend what was being communicated!)

The monastery, built in 1396-1495, is one of the largest in Italy. Founded by the monastic order of Carthusians, the Certosa is vastly different in style than what the Carthusians were normally known for…simplicity of architecture.

Originally, the church was built to serve as a mausoleum for the Visconti family and was built in the Gothic style with a Latin cross plan, consisting of a nave, two aisles and transept. Indeed inspired by the Duomo of Milan, its crossed vaults on Gothic arches are alternately decorated with geometrical shapes and starry skies.

A fresco, Incoronation of Mary between Francesco and Ludovico Sforza can be seen in the main apse as well as other frescoes with saints and prophets. The Certosa also exhibits other painted masterpieces by Bergognone including the panels of St. Ambrose and San Siro and the Crucifixion. Some important paintings originally in the church have either disappeared or been disassembled and distributed among museums, including the National Gallery of London. Inside the Chapel of St. Michael, frescoes by Carlo Francesco Nuvolone can be inspected and there is an important collection of stained glass windows by 15th century masters, including Zanetto Bugatto, Vincenzo Foppa, Bergognone and Hans Witz. Many notable sculptural works can be found here including the carved wooden choir stalls, the marble altar frontals, a bronze candelabra by Annibale Fontana and a 16th century high altar.

The Chapel of St. Michael
The Chapel of St. Michael
The Chapel of St. Michael

The tomb of Gian Galeazzo Visconti can be found in the southern transept as well as the tomb of Ludovico Sforza, the 7th Duke of Milan and his wife Beatrice d’Este in the northern transept.

The tomb of Ludovico Sforza, the 7th Duke of Milan and his wife Beatrice d’Este
Reproduction of the tomb of Ludovico Sforza, the 7th Duke of Milan and his wife Beatrice d’Este in the Museum of Certosa di Pavia
The tomb of Gian Galeazzo Visconti

Following the monk, we were awestruck by the portal with sculptures by the Mantegazza brothers, leading to the Small Cloister with a small garden in the center and the terracotta decorations on the small pilasters. The Grande Cloister was similarly decorated with the cells of the monks opening to a central garden. It was quite interesting (and moving) to walk through one of the monk’s cells to see just how simply they lived.

The Small Cloister
The Small Cloister
Fountain in the Small Cloister
Fountain in the Small Cloister
The Grande Cloister
The Grande Cloister
The Grande Cloister
The Grande Cloister
The Grande Cloister
The monk’s garden
A monk’s cell

After our tour was complete, I once again walked through the parts of the church that had caught my attention and finally made my way to the Museum. With free admission, the museum is worth taking the time to walk through and displays many of the Certosa’s impressive pieces and informs about the history the area. What I loved the most, however, is the plaster casts of friezes from the church’s facade. Here you can see, up close, what you can’t see with the naked eye due their locations high in the facade.

Finally, I headed into the Monastic Shop where the products made by the monks who reside at the monastery are sold. There is a large selection of herbal teas, alcoholic beverages, soaps, honey, religious icons and rosaries for purchase and you might spy one of those monks catching a nap in the corner, like I did!

Before heading out, I spent some time walking around the grounds in front of the church before heading out to make my way back to the train station.

Happy that I learned about the inexpensive price of Italy’s trains, I inserted my few euros into the ticket machine and purchased my return ticket, headed back to Milan, dinner and some much needed rest.

Most impressed by the Certosa di Pavia, this will most certainly be the first of many adventures outside of Milan!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Certosa di Pavia

An Ancient House of Worship

© 2018 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

The area near the Piazza Navona is one of my favorite places to visit when in Rome, for the activity, the food, the artists and the gelato.

But…I am not going to tell you about the Piazza Navona.

I’m going to tell you about a building that I pass every time I head there.

The Pantheon.

There are many churches in Rome.  I have been to too many to count, however, one of the best preserved buildings in Rome is a church originally constructed as a temple dedicated to all the gods of pagan Rome.  Dating back to between AD 118 and 125, the Pantheon was built after an original edition was destroyed by fire.  As ancient as it is, this prodigious building has been in use since its construction.

Having visited many times before, I still like to take a look inside every now and then.  Approaching the beautiful facade on my most recent trip, I am still mesmerized by the massive columns that line the portico.  Walking among these is always quite inspiring, imaging those who came before me.  Nothing, however, prepares you for those who have come minutes before…other tourists.

Massive crowds fill the interior every day seeking to inspect this architectural phenomenon.  Though classified as a temple, it is unknown how worship was conducted here as it is quite different from many other ancient Roman temples.  Today, though, many take a seat near the altar, head bowed in prayer and contemplation…appropriate as its inception as a church when Byzantine emperor Phocas bequeathed it to Pope Boniface IV in AD 608.

The best way to appreciate the Pantheon (while dodging the crowds), however, is to walk around the round structure while noting that remarkably, the diameter is the same as the interior height of the dome.  The architecture is most fascinating as the structure is comprised of a series of intersecting arches resting on eight piers.  The arches correspond to the eight bays which house statues.

Interspersed between the bays are the tombs of many famous figures from Italian history…painters Raphael and Annibale Carracci, composer, Arcangelo Corelli and architect Baldassare Peruzzi as well as the Italian kings, Vittorio Emanuele II and Umberto I.  There are also many paintings that adorn the walls, the best known being the Annunication by Melozzo da Forli.

The most amazing part of the Pantheon, however, is the oculus and probably the first thing your eye is drawn to when entering.  An engineering feat of its time, no other constructed before was as large.   Still lined with the original Roman bronze, it is the main source of light for the entire building.  As the oculus is open to the elements, rain does fall into the interior.  Tourists should never fear, however, the slightly convex floor allows the water to drain into the still functioning Roman drainpipes beneath.

After my visit was complete, I stepped out into the piazza to take a better look at the fabulous temple from afar.  The crowds were probably as thick here as they were inside, however, I was able to step up onto the raised platform that surrounded the amazing fountain that holds court in the center of the square.

After my photographs of the Pantheon were taken, I turned around to inspect the bubbling water behind me.  Funny, as many times as I had walked through this piazza and visited the Pantheon, I had only ever glanced at the fountain due to the large crowds that surround it.

The Fontana del Pantheon was commissioned by Pope Gregory XIII and sculpted entirely out of marble.  When the fountain was modified over a hundred years later, a new basin made of stone was installed and the Macuteo obelisk that you see today, was placed in the center.  The original marble figures that were originally installed, were removed in 1886, replaced with copies and placed in the Museum of Rome.  Much more beautiful up close!

If you are on your way to the Piazza Navona, or just in the area, step inside to see this incredible architectural gem and then have a seat around the beautiful fountain.  Grab a gelato or a drink and relax for a while.

With so many visitors, you never know who you might meet!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

 

Pantheon

  • http://www.polomusealelazio.beniculturali.it/index.php?it/232/pantheon
  • Address:  Piazza della Rotonda, 00186 Rome
  • Hours:  Monday-Saturday, 0830-1930, Sunday, 0900-1800.  Mid-week holidays, 0900-1300.  Closed January 1, May 1, December 25.
  • Admission:  free
  • Getting There:  Take bus 117 and get off at Corso-Minghetti.  The Pantheon is a 4 minute walk.

 

Mosteiro dos Jeronimos

© 2018 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

During my last visit to Lisbon, I made the journey to the coastal area of Belém.  With so many things to see and do there, I was disappointed to realize that there wasn’t sufficient time in my short afternoon to visit all of the landmarks.  During this trip, we were fortunate to be there for the Festival of the Mask, which takes place on the grounds of the Mosteiro dos Jeronimos.

Staring at the beautiful building, I was mesmerized at its intricate facade and decided that this beautiful building would be first on the list of places to visit on my next trip.

One of the most decorative churches in Portugal, the monastery was built on the site of the church dedicated to Santa Maria de Belém on the harbor of Praia do Restelo.  Monks of the military-religious Order of Christ resided here at the time and provided assistance to seafarers in transit.

In 1495, Manuel I inaugurated the construction of the existing structure and the Hieronymites order of monks were chosen to reside in the complex, remaining there for over four centuries.  The building of the time was already in disrepair when Vasco da Gama and his men spent the night in prayer there before departing on their Orient expedition in 1497.

Construction of the monastery was initiated on January 6, 1501 and eventually took 100 years until its completion.  As an overabundance of taxes were collected, architects’ plans grew until it reached the size, scale and style that you see today.  The Manueline ornamentation in the cloisters incorporates maritime elements and objects discovered during naval expeditions, carved in limestone.  The main chapel, the choir and the two stories of the monastery were completed in 1550, however thirty years later, construction was halted as funds were redirected to the Escorialin in Spain as Portugal and Spain united.

After various parts of the monastery was completed in the 1600s (new portal, cloister door, house of the doorkeepers, staircase and a hall that was the entrance to the upper choir), the monastery became the burial place for the royal pantheon.

Additional adornments were completed in the 1700s, including important paintings by artist Henrique Ferreira.  After the earthquake of 1755, much of the artwork and treasures were transferred to the crown or lost and the structure was vacated.

During the late 1800s, restorations began on the property, including the cloisters.  The annex and facade of the church were altered dramatically and are what you see today.

The Monastery of Jerónimos is one of the most visited landmarks in Lisbon and tourists should be aware of long waits to enter…I had no idea.  Fortunately, as I took my place in line, I was informed by a passerby that I could enter the Archaeological Museum next door, purchase my ticket there and skip the line.  Of course, I was a bit skeptical…if I left my place in line and what I was told was inaccurate, it would be back to the end of the line again.  Thankfully, they were correct.  I waited for ten minutes, purchased my ticket and walked past everyone who had been in front of me and was still waiting in the warm afternoon temperatures.

The monastery is truly magnificent, with its carvings of saints over its entryways and fine stone details…make sure to stop by the South Entrance which is truly magnificent.  Once inside, the two level cloister is a sight to behold with pinnacles, gargoyles and other decorative features and long, architectural corridors.

The interior gardens offer a mixture of the Manuelino, European, Moorish and Eastern styles, symbols of the Portuguese empire and its power throughout the world.  Certainly a place to take your time, admire the architecture and spend a bit of time in reflection on one of the many alcoves on the upper level.  Pay particular attention to all of the different carvings on each of the columns…faces, rosettes, dates.

You will also encounter  some of the remains of important figures in Portuguese history, including presidents Teófilo Braga and Oscar Carmona, playwright, Almeida Garrett and modern poet Fernando Pessoa.

The Church of Santa Maria de Belém, in the monastery, does not need a ticket to enter and is truly the highlight of the monastery.  Access to the upper level choir loft is from the monastery, so be sure not to miss it.  Take in the view of the church from above before heading downstairs.  Of particular interest is the crucifix, the beautiful paintings and the carved choir seating all bathed in the subtle light streaming in from the rose window.

 

As I entered the church’s lower lever, my senses were truly overloaded as I was not sure where to set my gaze.  Entering from the side portal, I first encountered the tombs of Vasco da Gama and Luís de Camões which are located in the lower choir.  These magnificent tombs, designed by sculptor Costa Mota can be admired from all angles and both offer extreme detail.  The baptismal chapel is also located near the side doors as well as the exquisite Altar Dourado.  Along the north wall are beautiful confessionals and large stained glass windows decorate the space, allowing alluring filtered light to enter.

Tomb of Vasco da Gama

Tomb of Luís de Camões

Baptismal Chapel

Altar Dourado

As I walked around the church and marveled at the amazing details that decorated every niche, every column and every arch, I encountered the remains of Cardinal-King Dom Henrique and the children of Manuel I as well as the tomb of King Sebastião and the descendants of King João III.

Make sure to walk near the altar for a closer look at the beautifully painted walls and golden tabernacle.  The golden organ is also located at the front of the church.

Overall, my visited lasted just over an hour and I was touched by the artistry and grandeur of this amazing place.

When visiting Lisbon, make sure to head over to Belem to experience some of the most beautiful architecture in the city.  Worth any amount of time you may have to spend in line, Jerónimos Monastery is a masterpiece!

For more pictures check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

 

Monsteiro dos Jerónimos

  • http://www.mosteirojeronimos.gov.pt/pt/index.php
  • Address:  Praça do Império 1400-206 Lisboa, Portugal
  • Hours:  October to April, 1000-1730, May to September, 1000-1830.   Closed Mondays, January 1, Easter Sunday, May 1, June 13 and 25 December.
  • Admission:  Individuals, 10€.  Combination ticket, Monastery and National Archaeological Museum, 12€.  50% discount for 65 years and older.  Family ticket, 50% discount for 2 adults, 2 children, ages 0-18.
  • Getting There:  #15 Tram from the city center runs to Belem
  • Additional Information:  Gift shop located within the monastery as well as an exhibit on the history and construction of the monastery.

The Forebearer

© 2018 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

There are dozens of churches in Lisbon.

But only one can claim to be the oldest.

The Cathedral of Lisbon.  Sé de Lisboa.

Once conquered by the Moors, Lisbon remained under Arab control for four centuries.  In 1147, when the city was reconquered by King Afonso Henriques and North European crusaders, a new cathedral was built on the site of the main mosque of Lisbon.

From its earliest years, the cathedral was entwined in Portugal’s history, bearing witness to the baptism, marriage and passing of Portugal’s nobility and elite.  Originally constructed in the Late Romanesque style, the cathedral was renovated many times over the years and survived earthquakes requiring repair and reconstruction resulting in contrasting architectural styles.  At the end of the 13th century, King Dinis of Portugal had a Gothic cloister built, the main chapel was converted in to a royal pantheon and the relics of St. Vincent of Saragossa, the patron saint of Lisbon were brought to the cathedral from southern Portugal.

Classified as a National Monument since 1910, the cathedral attracts thousands of visitors every year.

On this day, I was going to be one of them.

As I entered the fortress-like facade, with its two large clock towers and massive solid walls, I ran my hand over the large wooden doors passing through into the interior. The first thing I noticed, however, was how dark the cathedral appeared.  Though the second story of the ambulatory has a series of windows and the narrow windows of the lateral aisles allow light to enter, the church appeared to be much more gloomy than others I have visited.

Dodging other visitors, we made our way toward the front of the church admiring the rose window in the West facade and the interesting barrel vaulting of the nave.

Especially interesting were the chapels, one especially enclosed by a Romanesque gate.  Others include a funerary chapel, near the entrance of the cathedral, built by wealthy merchant Bartolomeu Joanes in the 14th century which still contains his tomb with his laying figure inside.

There are other tombs within the cathedral, including three in the Gothic style from the mid-14th century.  One belonging to Lopo Fernandes Pacheco, 7th Lord of Ferreira de Aves, a nobleman at the service of King Afonso IV, appears in a laying pose, holding a sword and is guarded by a dog.  His wife, Maria de Vilalobos, appears over her tomb reading a Book of Hours.  The third tomb contains the remains of an unidentified royal princes.  All are decorated with coats-of-arms.

At the end of the 13th century, King Dinis of Portugal ordered the construction of a Gothic-style cloister.  The cloister was damaged, along with many chapels and the royal pantheon during the earthquake of 1755.   Since renovated, the cloisters can be visited today, however, when we visited, it was Sunday and they had not yet opened for the afternoon.  I was truly disappointed as I understand, the tile work is simply amazing and it offers some of the most beautiful architecture in the city.  Additionally, we were not able to visit the Treasury as it is also closed on Sunday.

So, no cloisters and no treasury.  Since it was my first visit to the ancient city, there was much more to discover, including the castle, so there was no time to wait for the opening of either.

The cathedral, however, cannot be overlooked for its stunning beauty.  On my next trip to Lisbon, a return visit will be in order to see what the cloisters have to offer.  An update will surely be in order.

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

 

Lisbon Cathedral

  • https://www.patriarcado-lisboa.pt/site/
  • Address:   Largo da Sé, 1100-585 Lisboa, Portugal
  • Hours:  Cathedral, 0700-1900, daily.  Cloister, 1000-1700, Monday through Saturday, Sunday 1400-1700.  May through September, until 1900.  Treasury, 1000-1700.  Closed on Sunday.
  • Mass Times:  1830, Tuesday to Saturday.  1130, Sunday and Holy Days.
  • Admission: Church, free.  Cloister and Treasury, €2.50, adults, €1.00, children.

 

Ten Thousand Buddhas

© 2018 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Ten thousand of anything is, well…a lot!

I love buddhas, so it was a given that we had to find this monastery that has so many.

But, actually…it doesn’t have ten thousand.

The Ten Thousand Buddhas Monastery has thirteen thousand.  Now that’s a lot!

A Buddhist temple located on Po Fook Hill at Pai Tau village in Sha Tin, the Ten Thousand Buddhas Monastery is one of the most famous of Hong Kong’s temples and a popular tourist attraction.  Though the name states that the monastery has 10,000 buddhas (many from the Tang dynasty), it is because in the Cantonese tradition, “ten thousand” simply represents a figurative term for an extremely large number.

In 1951, the Reverend Yuet Kai and his followers began the construction and groundbreaking of the temple with its completion six years later.  Though the buildings were completed in 1957, it was another ten years before all of the miniature Buddha statues were completed.  After Reverend Yuet Kai’s death, at 87 years of age, it was discovered that his body was still in perfect condition when exhumed eight months after his death. In accordance with his wishes, his body was embalmed with Chinese lacquer, painted with gold leaf, draped in robes and put on display seated in the lotus position in a glass case in front of the main altar in the monastery.

Though we were anxious to check out “The Diamond Indestructible Body of Yuexi” and the Nine-Story pagoda, well-known in Hong Kong, we were unprepared for waited for us on the path to the monastery.

After making our way past the Pai Tau village, we followed the directions to the beginning of the path to the monastery.  Posted signs warned of “fake monks” known to hit on tourists for money.  Thankfully, we only encountered local residents climbing the 431 steps to make offerings at the monastery.

Beginning our own climb, we were greeted with…surprise…the first of the 13,000 buddhas.  The path is lined on both sides with 500 amazing life-size gilded Arhan statues, the Buddhist equivalent of saints who have achieved enlightenment, each unique and in a different pose.  These statues were produced by artists from Yunnan and Guangdong provinces and modeled after the ones from a temple in Kunming, the hometown of the monastery’s founder, Yuet Kai.

The paint on some of the statues is chipped and peeling, having not had a recent makeover, however, I loved stopping to admire each of the statues and their unique characteristics.  Honestly, my son thought we would never make it to the top, but finally, we achieved our goal.

The monastery, built on two levels on a bamboo forested hillside, overlooks Sha Tin and sits on almost twenty acres.  Five temples, four pavilions, one veranda and a pagoda comprise the compound.  Though officially designated a monastery, there are no actual monks that reside within the complex and laypersons are responsible for the day to day upkeep of the complex.

As we reached the top of the path, we were confronted with visiting lower level terrace or the upper terrace.  Deciding on the lower level first, we discovered the The Ten Thousand Buddhas Hall (main temple), Avalokitesvara (Kwun Yam) Pavilion, Samantabhadra Pavilion, Manjusri Pavilion, 18-Arhat Gallery, Naga-puspa Hall and the Nine Story Pagoda.

Starting with the far end of the lower level, we admired the Nine Story Pagoda which is notorious for being selected in 2001 to represent the symbol of Hong Kong featured on the HK$100 banknote.  Though I learned that usually the pagoda can be climbed, the internal spiral staircase was closed to visitors on the day we visited.

Another path at the rear of the property, near the pagoda, leads down to Sha Tin and is lined with more statues.  We made our way down part of the trail, admiring the images, before heading back up to the lower level terrace to check out the Kwun Yam Pavilion.  Located in the center of the terrace between the main hall and the pagoda, the gallery exhibits gold bodhisattvas on one side and the 18 Arhat Gallery of Arhan statues on the other.  Other multicolored statues are scattered around the terrace.

Finally, we made our way to the main temple.  Though a sign informs visitors of no photography, we were able to capture some of the beauty displayed in this temple, where the walls are lined with almost 13,000 miniature gold ceramic Buddha statues stacked on shelves.  Each twelve inch statue displays a different pose and expression and contains an inscription bearing the name of its donor.

The embalmed body of Reverend Yuet Kai is prominently displayed in a glass case in the main hall and three large gilded Buddha statues are also presented to its rear.

Heading to the upper terrace, we encountered the Amitabha Hall, Avalotiskesvara (Kwun Yam) House, Cundi House, Ksitigarbha House, Jade Emperor Hall, Sprinkler Guanyin, YueXi Pavilion and Naga-puspa Court.

Most interesting to note within the pavilions and houses are the Horseback bodhisattva in the Avalotisvara (Kwun Yam) House and the massive gold Amitabha Buddha statue in the columbarium (Amitabha Hall).  In the two story columbarium, gold framed drawers, each with a Buddha image are stacked around the hall and contain the ashes of the deceased.

Our visit culminated at the far eastern part of the terrace where the immense white statue of Kwun Yam stands in front of a waterfall and a pond with small, gold statues perched on the surrounding rocks. I loved this hillside part of the monastery, which brought me back to my visit to Marble Mountain in Vietnam.

A unique site featured in many films and television series, the Ten Thousand Buddha Monastery is one of the most interesting and historic places that we visited in Hong Kong.  Though the monastery is in a bit of disrepair and construction continues to stabilize the upper hillside, the statues were most mesmerizing and the architecture quite interesting.

10,000 reasons to visit?  Well, actually…13,000!

Check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

 

Ten Thousand Buddhas Monastery

  • Address:  221 Pai Tau Village, Sha Tin, New Territories
  • Hours:  0900-1700, daily.  The monastery may close during heavy rain or when typhoon signal 8 or above is issued. Vegetarian Restaurant open 1030-1600,  closed Thursdays.
  • Admission:  free
  • Getting There:  Take the MTR East Rail to Sha Tin Station.  From station, take exit B and the ramp alongside the bus terminus.  Go down to the street level and walk past Pai Tau Village to the junction with Pai Tau Street.  Follow Pai Tau Street and take the first street on the right, Sheung Wo Che Road and follow this street alongside Sha Tin Government Offices.  At the end of the road, is a yellow direction sign for the monastery.  Follow the path to the staircase leading to the monastery.
  • Po Fook Hill Ancestral Halls lie at the end of Pai Tau Street and are often mistaken for the Ten Thousand Buddhas Temple. These halls are open to visitors (admission free) and served by a series of escalators and a funicular railway. Visitors may wish to take the opportunity to visit these halls which comprise temples, columbarium on several levels of the terraced hillside, a pagoda (entry not allowed) shrines and ponds.

The Big Hut

© 2018 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

In 1906, three monks visiting from Jiangsu Province on the Chinese mainland founded a monastery located on the Ngong Ping Plateau on Lantau Island.

Named Tai Mao Pung, or “The Big Hut”, it was renamed eighteen years later to it’s current appellation.

Today, Po Lin Monastery, as it is presently known, attracts thousands of visitors each year, in conjunction with the Tian Tan Buddha, an extension of the monastery.

After completing our visit to the Tian Tan Buddha, we languished in the plaza and admired the massive entrance gate for the monastery.  Approaching the compound, the first thing we noticed was that it is not just a tourist attraction, but a frequented temple, still maintaining its original character and traditions. Many people were observed paying their respects, praying and lighting incense offerings in the front courtyard of the temple.

Making our way around the complex, we noticed the pristine condition of the grounds and buildings and the artistry of the colorful architecture.  There are many pronounced structures, including the Main Hall of Buddha and the Hall of Bodhisattva Skanda, with the older buildings at the rear of the property.

As we approached the main courtyard, we first encountered a smaller temple leading to the main courtyard that faces the Temple Gateway.  Inside the temple there are deities and guards safeguarding the entrance.

The Great Hall of Treasure is truly a magnificent structure with breathtaking, high ceilings decorated with paintings, hangings and lamps.  Holding court in the center of the Great Hall are three Great Golden Buddhas, which represent Buddha’s past, present and future lives (Sakyamuni, Dipamkarara and Maitreya). Also housed here are a number of Buddhist scriptures.  Even the exterior is astonishing with carvings and beautiful architectural details. Take note of the Chinese characters on top of the main temple which spell out Po Lin Monastery or Precious Lotus (a special symbol in Buddhism meaning purity).

In the Hall of Bodhisattva Skanda, we observed a bronze statue of  weighing approximately 441 pounds in addition to a 2,200 pound bronze bell.

The most recent structure to be added to the complex is the Hall of Ten Thousand Buddhas, which includes, of course, an impressive number of Buddhas, a shrine hall, a Meditation Hall, an abbot’s chamber, a Scripture Library and other multi-functional facilities for a wide variety of events.  An Exhibition Hall for Buddhist relics is also located within which houses many precious items including the Longcang Sutra and the Monk Huayan Preaching Buddhist Sutras (a painting).

The entire complex is awe-inspiring and one should take the proper amount of time to inspect each of the buildings within, discovering minute details at each venue.  Photography is not allowed in the main buildings, though we were able to take a few quick photos.

There are a few eateries located near to the monastery’s main buildings as well as reasonably-priced souvenir shops.  One thing I learned later, however, was that the monastery is known for making wooden bracelets.  They are only sold near the Tian Tan Buddha.  I wish I had been privy to this information as we would have purchased a few, to not only subsidize the monastery, but to remember the tranquility experienced here.

You can continue your path to wisdom and enlightenment by taking the Wisdom Path, a short walk from the monastery.  Here, is a sort of a colonnade where a series of wooden posts forming a figure eight are engraved with the Heart Sutra, a revered prayer by Buddhists, Taoists and Confucians, which is generally chanted during the morning services or other occasions such a funerals.  The path is well-marked and can be accessed from either the monastery or the Big Buddha.

No matter what your religious affiliation, you will certainly appreciate why the Jiangsu Province monks chose this site.

Check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe for more pictures.

Po Lin Monastery

  • http://www.plm.org.hk/
  • Address:  Ngong Ping Lantau Island, Hong Kong
  • Hours:  1000-1730, daily
  • Admission:  free
  • Getting There:  Option 1:  Take Lantau Bus No. 23 at the bus station outside Tung Chung MTR Station to Ngong Ping Bus Terminus (travel time: about 45 minutes).  Option 2:  Take Ngong Ping Cable Car at the Cable Car Station outside Tung Chung MTR Station (travel time: about 25 minutes); take an additional 10-minute walk to the Monastery.  Option 3:  Take First Ferry from Central Pier to Mui Wo, and take Lantau Bus No.2 to Ngong Ping Bus Terminus (travel time from Mui Wo to Ngong Ping: about 35 minutes).  Option 4:  Take Lantau Bus No. 21 at the bus stop in Tai O to Ngong Ping Bus Terminus (travel time: about 15 minutes).  Option 5:  Take a Lantau Island taxi.

The Bonus Church

© 2018 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Another church?

Not having planned another stop during my afternoon in the eastern part of Milan, I was headed to an early dinner.  Coming up out of the metro stop of San Babila, I looked up and wouldn’t you know…there was a church…the Basilica of San Babila.

Did I have time to pop in?  Of course I did!  I always make time for churches, especially in Italy!

Built at the crossroads that lay at the point where the Porta Orientale (or Eastern Gateway) once stood, San Babila was once considered the third most important basilica after the Duomo and the Basilica di Sant’Ambrogio.  Dedicated to Babylas of Antioch, his relics, along with those of Romanus of Caesarea were brought from Antioch to Milan by Marolus, the bishop of Milan in the beginning of the 5th century.

The church of San Babila was built on its current site in 1095, to house these relics, and extended with additional construction at the front and a new baroque facade.  Though much of its original style has been lost during renovations, the church still retains its original medieval feel.  During the 19th century, the complex was renovated with the aim of restoring the appearance of the medieval basilica and in the early 20th century the Neo-Romanesque facade by Paolo Cesa-Bianchi was built.  The bell tower was eventually added in 1920 to replace the original tower which had fallen in the 16th century.

With the many grand churches throughout Italy, it was quite surprising when I entered, that San Babila was a very simple, mostly unadorned church.  The interior has a nave and two aisles with two side chapels that date from the late Renaissance.  Pay particular to the right aisle as it has an image of the Madonna, highly esteemed by the Milanese community.  Also particular to note are some lovely medieval frescoes, Renaissance windows and beautiful mosaics.

If traveling in this area of Milan and happen to enter or exit at the San Babila metro, take a moment to stop in and relish the quiet beauty.

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

 

Chiesa di San Babila (The Church of San Babila)

  • http://www.santiprofeti.it/basilica-di-san-babila/
  • Address:  Corso Monforte, 1, 20122 Milano MI, Italy
  • Hours:  Saturday, 0830-1830, Sunday, 0930-1830, Monday thru Friday, 0800-1830 (not verified)
  • Admission:  free
  • Getting There:  Take the metro to the San Babila metro stop.  The church is immediately adjacent to the stop.

Caravaggio’s Church

© 2018 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

When seeking out San Bernardino alla Ossa in Milan, many people make the simple mistake of entering the Basilica di Santo Stefano Maggiore.

Though maybe not the intended destination, duck in for a moment and take a quick look around.

St. Stefano, is also referred to as St. Stephen in Brolo, the historical name of the area or St. Stephen’s Gate, for the port that once existed in this location.  As you approach the two churches, St. Stefano stands out with its bell tower and extravagantly carved facade.  Much more in its interior, however, should lure those who appreciate an impressive basilica and the history behind it.

Established in the 5th century, the basilica was formerly dedicated to both Saints Zechariah and Stephen, though eventually given over to the latter.  The original building was constructed around the year 417, destroyed by fire in 1070 and rebuilt in the Romanesque style in 1075.  Since 1594, many reconstructions, expansions and restoration have been completed including enlargement of the apse and the main altar, lengthening of the nave and reconstruction of the facade, reconstruction of the bell tower by architect Gerolamo Quadrio and the construction of the sacristy and the modernization of some chapels.

St. Stefano is most famous for the many saints interred within its walls, most notably, San Carlo Borromeo and for two major events that occurred in the church.   The Duke of Milan Galeazzo Maria Sforza was assassinated by four conspirators in 1476, under the medieval portico outside the church, as he visited the basilica for the celebration of the patron saint.  The remaining pillar of the portico can be viewed in front of the belltower.   Also, after years of speculation, the baptismal certificate from 1571, of the painter Michelangelo Merisi, better known as “Caravaggio”, was discovered in 2007 in the archival documents of the basilica, giving a definitive answer to the age-old question of his baptismal and birth place.

Though the basilica is very little known to tourists, it is easily accessible from the Piazza Fontana and quite impressive for its size and historical significance.  Though the church is in desperate need of renovations, there are many items worth noting on its interior.  Many of the side chapels contain beautiful and original stained glass and paintings and the altar is quite grand with its gold tabernacle.  Also, be sure to note the imposing organ, the unique statues and the beautiful vaulted ceiling.  Of particular interest is the life-sized bronze statue of Jesus on the cross, flanked by his mother and disciples, at the rear of the structure.

If the churches of Milan peak your interest, make the short walk from the Duomo area and investigate the neighboring churches of St. Stefano and San Bernardino alla Ossa.  Two different churches, connected by location and history…a sort of  “two for the price of one”, kind of deal!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

 

Basilica di Santo Stefano Maggiore

  • Address:  Piazza Santo Stefano 10Milan, Italy
  • Hours: Daily, 0900-1700
  • Admission:  free
  • Getting There:  Metro, Duomo stop.  Proceed along the cathedral’s southern side to the end of the square and into Piazza Fontana. Cross the piazza diagonally, across Via Verziere.

 

 

 

 

 

A Bethel of Bones

© 2018 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

There is a church in Milan that I’ve been wanting to visit for a very long time.

San Bernardino alle Ossa.

The bones church.

San Bernardino alla Ossa, is a church in Milan, near the Duomo, which dates back to the thirteenth century, when a hospital and a cemetery were built in front of the basilica of Santo Stefano Maggiore, located next door.  In 1210, excess bones from the cemetery needed housing so a chamber was built, next to which a church was built in 1269.

Restored in 1679 by Giovanni Andrea Biffi, the facade was modified and the walls of the ossuary were decorated with human skulls and tibiae.  When the church was destroyed in 1712, a new edifice was designed by Carlo Giuseppe Merlo and expanded to accommodate the growing interest in the ossuary.  The new church was then dedicated to St. Bernardino of Siena and completed in 1776.

Having been to both the Capuchin Crypt in Rome and the Catacombs in Paris, I was anxious to see how this compared, but I always seemed to be in Milan on Sunday when the church was closed to visitors.

Due to an irregularity in my schedule and some good luck, I happened to be in Milan on a Friday and the church was open during the afternoon.  Making my way from the Duomo metro stop, I approached the area but was a bit confused. The first thing you notice upon approach is the basilica of St. Stefano and its bell tower immediately in the forefront.  Seeing others entering the palazzo-like, unadorned building on the left, I realized that this was San Bernardino alla Ossa.

Entering the church’s vestibule, I acknowledged the Blessed Virgin and followed the corridor on the right, leading to the chapel ossuary.

The small square chapel, a breathtaking area, was originally decorated with frescoes by Sebastian Ricci, an Italian artist.  Today, you can still see his work…gaze upward at the incredible ceiling which depicts the Triumph of Souls Among Flying Angels and the glory of the four patron saints, Santa Maria Vergine, Santa Ambrogio, Santa Sebastiano and Santa Bernardino de Siena.  The rest of the chapel is adorned with an altar and a niche with the statue of Madonna Addolorata (Our Lady of Sorrows) kneeling before the body of Jesus.  Skulls and bones, believed to be the deceased from the hospital and corpses from seventeenth century cemeteries, are arranged in niches and on cornices, pillars and doors.  Some are stacked “frame-like” appearing as oversized paintings in simple shapes while others are arranged in ornamental patterns, like skull and crossbones.  The skulls that you observe in cases above the door are those of executed prisoners.

Remains interred near the altar are those of a young girl, who, according to legend, comes back to life on November 2nd, All Souls Day, and lures other skeletons in a morbid dance.

Be sure to take a seat and revel in the unique artistry of the chapel and be prepared for large tour groups entering the chapel now and again.  A sign advising against photographs is present in the hallway, however, I did not see this until I heard the caretaker telling a group of Spanish tourists that photography was not allowed.  Thankfully, I had been able to capture some stunning photos before I understood the restriction.

The church itself is not very remarkable and rather small.  An octagonal plan, it has two side chapels with baroque marble altars, with the one on the right showcasing an altarpiece by Frederico Ferrario representing “Santa Maria Maddalena in casa del fariseo” (St. Mary Magdalene in the house of the Pharisee).

However, be sure not to miss one of the most interesting aspects of this church.  The chapel on the right of the altar also houses a tomb of some descendants of Christopher Columbus’ maternal family.  You can spy the family coat of arms with the motto, “Colon diede il Nuovo Mondo alla Castiglia e al Leon” (Colon gave the New World to Castile and Leon).

The church has grown in popularity over the years and though not very well-known, it often listed in the Top Things To Do lists of Milan.  Maybe not as large as the catacombs of Paris and maybe not as ornate as the Capuchin Crypt in Rome, I do think that San Bernardino alla Ossa is by far the most intimate and most beautiful.

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

San Bernardino alla Ossa