The Woman of Three Breasts

©2020 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Brussels has the Mannekin Pis.

Paris has the Stravinsky Fountain.

A short walk from Milan’s La Scala Theater, tucked away in a nondescript neighborhood, is the Fontana dei Baci….more commonly known by the nickname, The Woman of Three Breasts.

There are many fountains similar to this design in Rome, however, this is the only one of the kind located in Milan. The statue was conceived and constructed by the former Savings Bank of Lombardy. Part of the building owned by the Cariplo (formerly the Savings Bank of the Lombardy) and adjacent to the well-known Congress Center, it sits on the corner and attracts the occasional visitor.

Like me. Or the two girls who were there, trying to get a cool Instagram or Tinder photo.

The water feature of the statue consists of a shell supported by two mighty newts with dolphins at their feet. The gushing water was believed to represent the “charity of the Savings Bank” since this was location of the offices were where taxes were paid. Two female statues flank the water feature, but it is the lady on the left that gives the statue its nickname.

The female statue, who represents the savings of the bank, holds close to her breast. a round piggy bank. The formation of the piggy bank to the mischievous eye, however, makes it look as though the female has a third breast!

The woman with “three” breasts, on the left.
Statue on right.

Okay, so its not the Trevi fountain, but worth a detour if you are coming from a performance at La Scala…especially if you are in need of updating your Instagram photo!

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Fontana dei Baci

  • Address: Via Andegari, 8, 20121 Milano MI, Italy (corner of Via Romagnosi and Via Andegari)
  • Hours: 24 hours
  • Admission: free
  • Getting There: The following transit lines have routes that pass near Fontana dei Baci. Bus, #’s 43, 57, 61. Train, R16, S4, S5, S6. Metro lines, M1, M3. Light Rail, line 1.

Happy Hours

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The city of Prague has some of the most unique and beautiful architecture in the world.

Standing atop Petrin Hill and looking over the city, it is sometimes hard to explain how everywhere you cast your glance, there is a picture. I’ve been to many cities in Europe and yet, this is the one that always takes my breath away.

Behind Petrin Hill you can observe the elegant spires of a basilica, of the Basilica of Our Lady. Though I love churches (and this one was not open while I was visiting), it was not what I was here to see.

Basilica of Our Lady
Basilica of Our Lady

Prague’s Strahov Monastery, is one of the oldest Premonstratensian monasteries, (founded in 1140), still in existence in the world and it was just around the corner from my hotel. Heading there for its re-opening after lunch, I paid my admission for both the Library and the Gallery as well as for permission to take photos. Many of Prague’s historical buildings charge to take photos, without flash (of course), and in order to not get a stern warning and risk being asked to leave, I’ve learned that it is best to pay for permission if you want to capture the beauty of these building’s interiors.

The Library is beyond description. The two halls, the Theological Hall and the Philosophical Hall are filled with over 200,000 volumes and is one of the most valuable and best preserved historical collections in the world. Though you cannot actually enter each of the rooms, you are allowed to observe from the doorways, a bit difficult when its crowded or when someone does not understand that they’ve taken enough photos and they need to make way for others. The Theological Hall, designed by Abbot Jeroným Hirnhaim, is the older of the two and was established between 1671 and 1674, while the Philosophical Hall dates from 1794. Both halls are two-stories high with ceiling frescoes painted by Siard Nosecký and Anton Maulbertsch.

Theological Hall
Theological Hall
Philosophical Hall

The Philosophical Hall was built under the direction of Abbot Václav Mayer and contains more than 42,000 volumes covering topics such as philosophy, astronomy, mathematics, history and philology, while the Theological Hall’s 18,000+ volumes contain numerous editions of the Bible, many in different languages. In the foyer area, you can inspect some of these bibles, displayed in protective cases.

The foyer also contains a large collection of curiosities from the estate of Karel Jan Erban, dating back to 1798. In large display cabinets, you can observe sea fauna, collections of insects, minerals, wax replicas of fruit, archaeological collections, ceramics, handcuff and Hussite peasant weapons. The most interesting artifact, however, is the remains of the now extinct Dodo bird.

Though there are many notable buildings within the complex including the Basilica, the Abbey Building, the Convent, the Great Monastery Restaurant and the Strahov Monastery Brewery, the only other part that was open to the public (and did not involve beer) was the Strahov Gallery.

Heading over to the Strahov Gallery, I was pleased to find that it was more than just a picture gallery. While the gallery contains a large collection (more than 1500 pieces) of Gothic, Baroque, Rococo painting and Rudolfian art, there were other halls and exhibits throughout the structure.

One of the first exhibits, located in the Romanesque Hall (the monastery’s former food storerooms) detail the origins of the Strahov monastery, including a to-scale model of the monastery, photographs and a cycle of paintings of the scenes of St. Norbert, the founder of the Premonstratensian Order. There are also artifacts used during the celebrations on the occasion of the transfer of his relics to Prague.

The Summer Refectory (dining hall) dates back to 1691 and was designed by the Burgundian architect Jean Batista Mathey. Here, my attention was drawn upward to the ceiling which is covered with an amazing fresco entitled “Heavenly Banquet of the Just with Christ as the Host” by Siard Nosecký. As my attention was then cast down, I was able to admire the series of portraits with ten important figures from the monastery.

Summer Refectory
Summer Refectory
Winter Refectory

The nearby Chapter Hall also displayed a beautifully, frescoed ceiling, precious paintings and works of art including an ornate gilded altar. This important room was restored in 1990 to its original appearance and is where new members join the order.

Chapter Hall

Finally, as the gallery neared its closing hour, I headed to the exposition displaying liturgical works of arts, many of Czech descent, but others from different areas of Europe and the actual picture gallery.

Walking to the exit along the hallways, there were many exquisite statues and wide windows offering a peek at the buildings serene courtyard.

A visit to the monastery is on the shortlist of things to do while in Prague, but if I could make a recommendation, it would be to visit during the afternoon hours. Once finished, you can enjoy some of the monastery’s tasty brews and have a bite to eat while looking out on one of Europe’s most picturesque cities!

An afternoon of history, culture, views, food and, of course, DRINK, this is what I call my Happy Hours!

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Strahov Monastery

  • https://www.strahovskyklaster.cz/en/
  • Address: Strahovské nádvoří 1/132, 118 00 Praha 1
  • Hours: 0900-1200, 1300-1700, daily
  • Admission: Strahov Library, Adults, CZK 150 (about $6.60 US), Reduced, 80 CZK (about $3.52 US), Family (2 adults + max 3 children under 15 years), 300 CZK (about $13,20 US) , Photo Permission, 50 CZK (about $2.20 US) . Strahov Gallery (open only until 1600), Adults, 280 CZK (about $12.30 US) , Reduced, 140 CZK (about $6.16 US) , Family (2 adults + max 3 children under 15 years), 500 CZK (about $22.00 US) . Photo Permission, 80 CZK (about $3.52 US) . Children under 6 years, Holders of cards for handicapped persons, members of religious orders and congregations, teachers accompanying students, free. Children over 6 years and students up to 27 years, reduced admission.
  • Getting There: By Metro Malostranska (line A). Then tram 22 or 23 to Pohorelec. Scenic route, take the funicular, go to tram stop Ujezd (trams 9,12,15,20,22,23). Take the funicular railway  to the top of Petrin Hill and walk 10 minutes along Strahovska street. By car, parking is free of charge at the Brusnice stop on Kepler Street.

The Cathedral In the Plaza

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In the Plaza Independencia, you can spend a good part of your day see only what is there, including devouring a scrumptious lunch going to mass and making new friends!

Quito’s Cathedral stands on the southern side of the plaza and is a one of the most important churches in the city.  Dating back to 1535, when the Spanish founded Quito, it was given the name of Metropolitan Cathedral, until twenty-five years ago, when it was name the Primada Cathedral for the evangelizing work that the church had done over the years.

Construction of the cathedral began between 1550 and 1560 with many renovations over the years, until its completion in 1806.  As we walked through the building, the many architectural styles that make up the interior should be a great contrast, however, the styles blend together remarkably…the arches are of the Gothic design, while the altar is very Baroque…the choir area is Neoclassic and the ceilings Moorish.  

There are many main attractions in the church that are not to be missed that include the High Altar, gilded and backed by a monumental dome and fronted by a beautiful carved, wooden altarpiece, stunning stained glass windows, stone plates of the first settlers, its Moorish-styled coiffured ceiling, three domes (one carved in the shape of a convex quadrangle, the second, oval-shaped and the third, circular), a carved and gilded wooden pulpit (topped with a sculpture of St. Peter), ornate side chapels and the spacious high choir which houses a German organ.

Many prominent citizens have been interred here, including Mariscal Sucre (liberator Simon Bolivar’s right-hand man), Antoinio Jose de Sucre, Cardinal de la Torre, priests, bishops and many of the Republic’s presidents.

Most importantly, the cathedral houses the most notable relic in all of Quito, that of the Christian martyr, Saint Urcisino.  Given as a gift from Pope Pius IX to President Garcia Moreno, it was has resided here since 1871.

The cathedral also contains a museum with many types of art, both ecclesiastical and colonial and an imitation of the Last Supper painting cannot be missed…instead of the usual dinner fare, Jesus and the apostles dine on cuy, the traditional South American dish…yes, it’s guinea pig.

It was revealed to me some time after our visit that visitors can climb through a very narrow and dark staircase and passages and emerge on the roof for a great view of the city and the square beneath, as well as climb to the domes.  I guess since it was the end of our day, we missed this!

Though I was sad about not having known about the climb to the top, I had the privilege of looking down on the city from many vantage points during my visit…from the top of the Teleferico, from Panecillo Hill and from the top of the Basilica.  Instead of being regretful of what we did not get to do, I will focus on the many beautiful things we witnessed inside this amazing cathedral!

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Museo Catedral Primada de Quito

  • http://www.catedraldequito.org/
  • Address: Venezuela y Espejo 715, Quito 
  • Hours: Monday-Saturday, 0930-1700
  • Admission: National Tourists, Adults, $2.00, Children, Students, Seniors, People with Disabilities, $1.00. Visit to Domes (Church+Museum+Domes) $4.00. Foreign Tourists, Adults, $3.00, Children, Students, Seniors, People with Disabilities, $2.00. Visit to Domes (Church+Museum+Domes) $6.00.

The Papal Basilica of St. Peter’s

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Ever see something many times, yet never tire of it?

This is how I feel about St. Peter’s Basilica.

It’s no secret that I love churches, but this one surpasses all.

Situated on Vatican Hill, St. Peter’s Basilica can be seen from many parts of Rome, beckoning visitors, that total in the millions every year, from all over the world. One of only four Major basilicas in the world (with the other three also in Rome…St. Paul’s Outside the Walls, Santa Maria Maggiore and St. John the Lateran), this basilica achieved its fame as it derives its name from the fact that it was built on the site where St. Peter was buried in 64 AD.

This UNESCO world heritage site has a capacity of over 60,000 people and covers an area of over 22,300 square meters, making it one of the world’s largest churches. Originally the site of the Circus of Nero and a cemetery, the original basilica was erected between the years of 319 and 349 AD under the orders of Emperor Constantine, the first Christian emperor of Rome. Falling into disrepair after standing for over 1,000 years, Pope Julius II (who also commissioned the Sistine Ceiling) made the decision to demolish and rebuild the structure.

The greatest architects of the Roman Renaissance and Baroque were consulted and utilized for this new basilica, including Bramante, Raphael, Michelangelo, Donato, Giacomo della Porta and Maderno with Bramante’s original design being chosen in 1506. After 120 years, the basilica was completed and consecrated by Pope Urban VIII.

St. Peter’s Square, itself, is an architectural highlight, designed by Bernini in the seventeenth century, and is overlooked by the Loggia della Benedizione, the central balcony from where the pope delivers his Urbi et Orbi blessing at Christmas and Easter. It is here, on the right, where you join the queue to enter St. Peter’s basilica. The line moves quite quickly, however, the time seemed to drag as we stood in the heat of the August afternoon, making our way to the security screening area.

Finally, we entered the massive church and as always, I found myself unsure of where to turn first. There is so much to see on the main level of St. Peter’s including the Michelangelo’s Pieta, located to the right of the entrance, between the Holy Door and the altar of Saint Sebastian.. Carved from a single slab of marble, it was created by Michelangelo when he was only twenty-two years of age and is one of his first works of art. It is the only piece he ever created that was signed.

Take a look around on the floor nearby, and see if you can spot the red disk that marks that spot where Charlemagne and later Holy Roman Emperors were crowned by the pope.

Walking along the right and left naves, there were many side altars to admire, each more beautiful than the next, but it was what was at the high altar that commanded our attention. Here, Bernini’s famous baldachin is supported by four spiral columns and made with bronze from taken from the Pantheon. The baldechin stands over the altar which sits above the site of St. Peter’s grave. So holy is this site that the pope is the only priest allowed to serve at the altar.

Above us, the dome, also created by Michelangelo, was another of the basilica’s highlights. Soaring to a height of almost four hundred feet, this dome was based on Brunelleschi’s design for the Duomo in Florence. The cupola is supported by four stone piers names after the saints whose statues adorn the Bernini designed niches…Longinus, Helena, Veronica and Andrew. Having been up in the cupola before, I was anxious to see the remaining features before heading upwards.

Another of the basilica’s treasures is the 13th century bronze statue of St. Peter. Designed by Arnolfo di Cambio, what is immediately noticed is that statue’s right foot is extremely shiny…due to the centuries of caresses by visitors hoping to receive blessings by rubbing the extremity.

Heading into the Museo Storico Artistico, located in the left nave, we perused the multitude of sacred relics, including a jewel-studded cross gifted to the church by emperor Justinian II, a 6th century Crux Vaticana and a tabernacle by Donatello.

Finding our way to the Vatican Grottoes beneath the basilica, it is here that visitors can pay their respects to the tombs and sarcophagi of 91 popes that have served the Catholic church during its long history. You can also see the several large columns from the original 4th century basilica here, but my favorite part of being in this space is the tomb of the most beloved St. John Paul II, the second longest-serving pope in modern history who is credited in ending Communist rule. It is also interesting to note that in addition to the entombed popes, there are three women laid to rest here; Queen Christina of Sweden, Agnesina Colonna Caetani and Queen Charlotte of Cyprus.

Beneath this area, excavations have uncovered what is believed to be the tomb of St. Peter. This area, however, is accessible only to those escorted by a guide, booked well in advance.

Making our way back upstairs, we decided that it was time to head upstairs, to the dome and the cupola. The dome’s ticket entrance is located on the right of the basilica’s main portico and a major decision is to be made here when purchasing a ticket.

Walk up the 551 steps to the top (kudos to those who do) or take the lift halfway and climb the remaining 320 steps. Of course, we had had a long day, traveling from Naples and exploring the Vatican, so you probably guess what our decision was.

After exiting the lift, we walked around the first level, taking in the beautiful mosaics that line the walls making up the dome’s design and the birds’ eye view of the basilica below.

Walking out onto the roof of the basilica, we walked out to check out the statues of Jesus and the Apostles that can be seen on the roof of the basilica from the square. There is also a bathroom, a refreshment stand and a gift shop that you can mail your Vatican City postmarked postcards from.

Continuing onward and upward, it was here that the journey becomes a little more challenging. This second part requires the climbing of the remaining 320 steps to the top. There is a narrow, single-file, spiral staircase that requires you to lean in to accommodate the slanting of the roof and at the end, a corkscrew staircase. Though there are some windows along the way, this part definitely made me feel extremely claustrophobic and I could not wait to reach the top.

Once I did, however, the views of the city and St. Peter’s Square below were breathtaking!

Who could ever tire of this?

That’s why I keep coming back!

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St. Peter’s Basilica

  • http://www.vatican.va/various/basiliche/san_pietro/index_it.htm
  • Address: Piazza San Pietro, 00120 Città del Vaticano, Vatican City
  • Hours: October 1 until March 31, 0700-1830, April 1 until September 30, 0700-1900. Dome Access, October 1 until March 31, 0730-1700, April 1 until September 30, 0700-1800.
  • Admission: Basilica, free. Dome Access, including lift to terrace level and continue on foot (320 steps), € 10.00. Ascent on foot (551 steps), € 8.00. Reductions for schools are possible by presenting an attestation of the Institute with the list of participants, € 5.00
  • Getting There: Metro, Line A, Ottaviano stop and then a 10 minute walk. Bus lines 64, 62, 40 and 81 and Hop On/Hop Off buses drop off in Vatican City. Children under 10 travel free on all public transport. By car, the nearest parking facility is the underground five-story park, Terminal Gianicolo, a ten minute walk from St. Peter’s Basilica.

Movin’ On Up…To the East Side

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The wall.

For you and me, it could be the barrier between our bedroom and the hallway.

For Germans, during the years between 1961 and 1989, it meant something vastly different.

The Berlin wall was a heavily guarded, concrete barrier, that divided Germany both physically and politically during the Cold War. Constructed by the German Democratic Republic, it remained until its demolition in November 1990 after the reopening of the border in 1989.

There are many of my colleagues who remember the division of their country and more importantly, when the wall came down. One friend tells me that each time she comes back to Berlin, she still get emotional when she sees the portions of the wall that remain, reminders of the years of separation from her family.

Today, the wall is a large draw for visitors to Berlin, eager to see the physical barrier that split families and friends. There are quite few locations where the wall can be seen in the city, including Mauerpark, Checkpoint Charlie, the Berlin Wall Memorial, Schlesischer Busch Watch Tower, Potsdamer Platz and the longest remaining stretch at the East Side Gallery located on Mühlenstraße. Having visited the wall on a few occasions, it is always surprising to see how narrow it really was. I guess I always thought that its height and depth was what deterred people from scaling it and defecting to the other side, however, the guards and their machine guns were the real obstacle.

A few years ago, while on a tour bus, we had driven down Mühlenstraße and I was mesmerized by the brightly painted longest span of the wall. Why it had taken me so long to return, I am not sure, but on this trip to Berlin, I was going to take advantage of the sunny afternoon.

Arriving at the East Side Gallery, I decided to start at the part of the wall nearest to the Oberbaum Bridge, the iconic double decker bridge that crosses the River Spree (note to self, come check out this beautiful bridge on another trip to the city!).

At the start of the wall, there is the Berlin Wall Museum, located on the second floor of the Pirates of Berlin building, a great place to start your exploration of the history of the wall.

This museum, founded on the 25th anniversary of the fall of the Wall at Checkpoint Charlie (November 2014), highlights why and how the wall was built and how Germans, both East and West, suffered; how this aberration changed people’s lives. There are many historical facts, exhibitions, film clips and photos and a portion of the museum that commemorates the dead who died on the wall during its twenty-eight years of existence.

Mikhail Gorbachev had announced the founding of the museum on the occasion of the 25th anniversary of the fall of the Wall at Checkpoint Charlie in November 2014 in Berlin. A part of the museum is dedicated to him, as he is a trigger and guarantor of change and a peaceful revolution.

After my departure from the museum, I headed to the start of the wall and made my way down its length, taking the time to examine each of the one hundred and five murals painted by artists from all over the globe. Possibly the largest and longest lasting open-air gallery in the world, originated in 1990, the murals document the time of change when the wall fell and the jubilation that those affected by its presence experienced.

Though some of the paintings have suffered from exposure to the elements, the heritage protected landmark still draws over three million visitors every year. Work has been conducted to restore over a third of the murals and the effort continues.

Any visit to Berlin should include a stop at one of the remaining portions of the wall. The East Side Gallery is highly recommended for its artistic renditions of the joy felt around the world when the wall came down. Head first to the museum, walk the wall’s length and even check out the backside, filled with graffiti…the perfect place to enjoy both the river and an important historic landmark marking the reunification of Germany.

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East Side Gallery

  • http://www.eastsidegallery-berlin.com/
  • Address: Mühlenstraße 3-100, 10243 Berlin, Germany
  • Hours: 24 hours
  • Admission: free
  • Getting There: Nearest U-bahn stations, Warschauer Straße, Schlesisches Tor, Jannowitzbrücke

The Wall Museum

  • https://thewallmuseum.com/
  • Address: Mühlenstraße 78-80, 10243 Berlin, Germany
  • Hours: 1000-1900, daily
  • Admission: Adults, 12,50€, Students, 6,50€, Groups of 10 persons or more, 9,50€, Children up to 7 years, free
  • Getting There: Nearest U-bahn stations, Warschauer Straße, Schlesisches Tor, Jannowitzbrücke

Once Upon A Palace

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The palace of Inca Roca.

Ever hear of it?

Perhaps if you lived during Incan times.

Today, the Inca Roca palace is known as the Archbishop’s Palace or The Religious Art Museum.

Located a short distance from Plaza de Armas, on the famous Hatunrumiyoc Street, the museum is located on the site which was once the home of the Marquis of San Juan de Buenavista and later the Archbishop of Cusco.  Transformed into a museum in the 1960s, the site attracts thousands of visitors interested in the both the Colonial and Moorish architecture of the building as well as the religious artifacts housed in the museum. Dedicated to 17th and 18th century religious art by important Peruvian and Andean artists, the main draw for many visitors, however, is the historic palace setting.

As we walked up the street, we noticed many people taking pictures near the stone perimeter wall of the museum.  We learned that one particular stone interested them, “The Stone of 12 Angles” an archaeological artifact, considered to be a national heritage object.

After validating our Religious Ticket, we entered the museum first, noticing (again) not only the NO PHOTOS sign, but the cloistered Renaissance courtyard, decorated with a tranquil fountain, stone arches and walls decorated with blue and white tiles.  Many visitors were sitting here enjoying a quiet moment away from the busy streets of Cusco.

Surrounding the courtyard, inside the classical mansion, are a series of corridors filled with colonial furniture, chapels and important works of masters of Andean painting, including Juan Zapata.  There are many valuable religious masterpieces such as a painting of Christ’s crucifixion by Alonso Cano, entitled Granada and paintings by the Cusqueno Marcos Zapata, one Ayacuchana painting and a Quitena painting.

An important relic, a small organ of two processing refined bellows occupies one of the smaller rooms.  This organ was the first ever to come to Peru for the cathedral.

The architecture is exceptional with a door in arabesque style, doorways in the Moorish style, carved cedar ceilings and spectacular stained-glass windows and a beautiful gold-filled chapel.

The one thing that we noticed, however, was the lack of information displayed on what we were seeing.  Much of what we gleaned from our visit was from a bit of research later.

The museum was small, but interesting to see…rather enjoyable having another location to discover something new about Cusco’s history and to occupy some time during our day.   Not sure if I would have sought it out on my own, but worth the time since it was included in our Religious ticket and a plus for those interested in architectural styles.

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Museum of Religious Art

  • Address:  Located on the corner of Hatunrumiyoq Street and Herrajes street.
  • Hours:  0800-1800, daily.
  • Admission:  Adult, S /. 15.00 (about $4.45 US).  Student: S /. 7.50 (about $2.20 US). Admission with the Religious Ticket (also incorporating three other churches ),    S /. 30.00 (about $10.50 US).  Also included with the Cusco Tourist Ticket.

Cathedral of Cusco (Basilica Cathedral of the Virgin of Asuncion)

  • Address:  Plaza de Armas
  • Hours:  1000 to 1800, daily.
  • Admission:  Adult, S /. 25.00 (about $7.38 US).  Student: S /. 12.50 (about $3.70 US).  Admission also with the Religious Ticket (also incorporating two other churches and museum), S /. 30.00 (about $10.50 US).

Templo San Blas

  • Address:  Plazoleta de San Blas, Cusco
  • Hours:  1000-1800, daily
  • Admission:  Adult, S /. 15.00 (about $4.45 US).  Student: S /. 7.50 (about $2.20 US).  Admission with the Religious Ticket (also incorporating two other churches and museum), S /. 30.00 (about $10.50 US).

Church of San Cristobal

  • Address:  Avenue Don Bosco
  • Hours:  1000-1800, daily
  • Admission:  Adult, S /. 15.00 (about $4.45 US).  Student: S /. 7.50 (about $2.20 US).  Admission with the Religious Ticket (also incorporating two other churches and museum), S /. 30.00 (about $10.50 US).

Bernini’s Perfect Work

© 2018 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Don’t you love it when you find something special without even trying?

Recently, while in Rome, I was out for a walk headed toward nowhere in particular.   Enjoying a gelato, the sunshine and my leisurely stroll, I was paying attention to the intricate and elegant architecture of the area.

Walking along the Via del Quirinale, I noticed a church on my left.  Noticing people entering, I decided to take a look inside.

The Church of Sant’ Andrea al Quirinal is a Roman Catholic church built for the Jesuit seminary on the Quirinal Hill.  Commissioned in 1658, the church was constructed in 1661 and designed by Gian Lorenzo Bernini, who considered it one of his most perfect works.

And perfect it was!

A rotunda-type oval church, with the high altar placed on the short axis, makes it much closer to the entrance than most churches and the first thing I set my eyes upon.  Drawn in due to the placement, my gaze was transfixed on the red marble columns flanking the incredible, breathtaking altar and the painting of The Martyrdom of Saint Andrew by Guillaume Courtois, topped with three-dimensional golden cherubs and a marble figure of Saint Andrew resting on the pediment high above the altar, arm outstretched and gazing upward.

Finally, tearing myself away, I began to inspect each of the chapels, moving to the right of the altar. The Chapel of St. Francis Xavier, showcases three canvases by Baciccio depicting the Baptism, Preaching and Death of St. Francis Xavier.   Gazing upward, the ceiling presents a painting of The Glory of St. Francis Xavier by Filippo Bracci.

The Chapel of the Passion, has three canvases with scenes from the Passion of Jesus Christ by Giacinto Brandi and the chapel to the left of the altar, The Chapel of Saint Stanislaus Kostka, houses the shrine of the saint, a bronze and lapis lazuli urn and a painting of the Madonna With Child and Saint Stanislaus Kostka.  Make sure to check out the ceiling fresco by Govanni Odazzi.

Another chapel is dedicated to Saint Ignatius of Loyola and showcases paintings by Ludovico Mazzanti of the Madonna and Child and Saints and Adoration of Kings and Shepherds.   Another magnificent ceiling painting, Glory of the Angels, commanded my attention here also.

The final altar, located between the Chapel of Saint Stanislaus Kostka caught my eye with the large crucifix.  In this chapel, I discovered the tomb of King Charles Emmanuel IV of Sardinia and Piedmont, who abdicated in 1815 to enter the Society of Jesus and lived in the Jesuit novitiate, adjacent to the church, until his death in 1819.

Many other intricately carved statues grace the pediments above the chapels and the domed ceiling is centered with an oculus allowing the church to be lighted naturally.  Bringing my attention to the floor, I was entranced by the amazing inlaid mosaics which mirrors the elliptical dome overhead.  Bernini did not want large funerary monuments within the church to ruin the architectural lines, so the mosaics mark the grave of those such as Cardinal Giambattista Spinola.

As I was moving through the church, I noticed a sign near a doorway.  As if there wasn’t enough to captivate my attention, I discovered that for a small fee, I could visit the Rooms of Saint Stanislaus Kostka in the Jesuit novitiate, attached to the church, as well as the sacristy, which has been described as the most beautiful in the city.  Not seeing many people heading that way, I decided that my curiosity needed to be satisfied.

Paying the sacristan on duty, I was then directed me up a stairway.  Entering a small room, I discovered paintings and information about Saint Stanislaus Kostka.  As I walked into the rooms that the saint spent his final years, what caught my eye…and actually, caught me a bit off guard…was a life-size marble statue depicting the dying saint, designed by Pierre Legros.  Portrayed at the age of 18, the saint rests on a marble bed and holds in one hand, a small framed image of the Virgin Mary and a real rosary in the other. Surrounded by paintings from his life, the Baroque decor is even more engaging, painted deep red and trimmed in an abundance of gold.

Relics belonging to the saint are displayed in a case the left and two altars fill the wall spaces.  The rooms were so mesmerizing and yet so intimate, not something you get to experience in the normal course of a church visit.

After my descent to the bottom level, I was greeted once again by the sacristan, who then led me into the sacristy and turned on the interior lights.  As my eyes adjusted, I thought, “Indeed, this could be one of the most beautiful in Rome.”  The dark wood altarpiece displays a painting, Immaculate Conception, by Andrea Pozzo, but the ceiling is the magnificent that I have ever seen. The multi-dimensional fresco depicts the Apotheosis of St. Andrew by Govanni de Brosso and is worthy of more than a few minutes of anyone’s time.  Take a seat and stay awhile!

Finally, as my visit was drawing to a close, I took one more round in the church and then stepped outside to take a better look at the exterior.  A simple beauty, marked by a semicircular porch with two Ionic columns invites visitors in to its exaggerated beauty on the inside.

As I stood contemplating what I had just witnessed, a couple walked up near me and read about the church from a guide book they were carrying.  Seeming a bit hesitant about whether or not to take the time to enter, I encouraged them to do so.  To not enter and miss one of Rome’s treasures would be just as a Jesuit devotee dying at the young age of 18.

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Sant’Andrea al Quirinale

  • Address:  Via del Quirinale 29.
  • Hours:  Monday-Friday 0830-1200, 1500-1900. Saturday and Sunday 0900-1200, 1530-1900.
  • Admission:  free.  €2.00 for entrance to Chapel of St. Stanislov and sacristy.
  • Getting There:  From the Fontane del Tritone near the Barberini Metro station, walk up Via delle Qattro Fontane. Turn right at Via del Quirinale; pass the church San Carlo alle Quatro Fontane (built by Bernini’s rival, Borromini). Pass the park and Sant’Andrea is on the left at the end of the gardens.

 

 

The Circle of Standing Stones

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It is always a bonus when you finish up work early.

It is an even bigger bonus when you find an awesome little landmark.

Checking out a map of Salt Lake City’s downtown area, I caught sight of the words sculpture garden. I love art and now I had a free afternoon.  Why not?

Taking the red line on Salt Lake City’s Trax light rail, I headed west, jumping off at the stop in front of Trader Joe’s.  Taking a right on 700 E, I then turned left, dodging a bit of construction onto 500 S and found the entrance to the garden tucked in the middle of the block, behind houses and businesses.  A strange location, but easier to find than I thought!

Not sure what I would discover here, I grabbed a brochure at the entrance and sauntered in, seeking the shade of the large trees guarding the front gates.  After resting a bit, I walked in among the beds of flowers and pieces of sculpture, finding that I had the place all to myself!  Flipping open the brochure, I got to work deciphering each of the amazing original designs.

The Gilgal Sculpture Garden was the brainchild of LDS businessman Thomas Battersby Child, Jr, who also designed and created the space in the mid-twentieth century.  The garden contains twelve original sculptures and over seventy stones engraved with scriptures, poems and literary texts all associated with the Mormon religion.

Captain of the Lord’s Host

Written Scripture and Testimony of Job (Middle Left)

Thomas Child, conceived the idea realizing that the world need a retreat that also paid tribute to the religious and personal beliefs that he held dear to his heart.  Though not a classically trained artist, his work as a masonry contractor, assisted him in the design of each piece.  Building the garden in his back yard in 1947, he worked at fulfilling his project until his death in 1963.

Monument to the Trade

Berta Child Memorial and Birdhouse

 

The garden was named after the Biblical location where Joshua ordered the Israelites to place twelve stones as a memorial and is sometimes translated to mean “circle of standing stones”.  Gilgal is also the name of a city and a valley in the Book of Mormon, the sacred scripture of the Mormon religion.

The Last Chapter of the Book of Ecclesiastes

Though Child knew that everyone would not appreciate his artistic vision, he hoped the unique pieces would arouse other’s curiosity and make them think.

Malachi

After wandering around the garden, believe me, I did think…

Monument To The Priesthood

Each of the pieces are a bit eccentric and unconventional.  From the sphinx with the face of Joseph Smith, founder of Mormonism and the Latter Day Saints movement, to the sacrificial altar, to Daniel II, Nebuchadnezzar’s Dream.  Each item requires a few moments to ponder and wonder of the extent of Child’s thought process and imagination.

The Joseph Smith Sphinx

The Sacrificial Altar

Nebudchanezzar’s Dream

 

Monument to Peace

The Eagles

Upon Thomas Child’s death, the garden’s ownership was transferred to Henry P. Fetzer,  a neighbor who bought the property.  The garden was only open on Sundays and was maintained by the family.  Plans were soon put into place by a Canadian company to tear down the garden to make room for condominiums.  A group of citizens, headed by Thomas Child’s daughter-in-law, realized the value of the garden, and stepped in to purchase the land.   Negotiations with the city resulted in the Gilgal Sculpture Garden officially being named a city park.

Nestled smack dab in the middle of Salt Lake City, it might be a bit of a challenge to find.  Take on that challenge.  What an amazing find!

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Gilgal Sculpture Garden

  • http://gilgalgarden.org/
  • Address:  749 E 500 S, Salt Lake City, UT 84102
  • Hours:  April-September, 0800-2000, October-March, 0800-1700.  Closed New Year’s Day, Thanksgiving and Christmas.
  • Admission:  free
  • Getting There:

Your “Go-To” Gaudi

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Gaudí.

Ever hear of him?

You can’t go anywhere in Barcelona without hearing the name Gaudí.  However, if you are an architecture buff, you should be well-versed in his work.

The Catalonian architect, influenced by his passions in life…architecture, nature and religion…is most beloved in his home country.  Taking a look at any of his works, it is evident that his passions are always displayed in his one-of-a-kind style.  Many of his works are located in Barcelona…Casa Milà, Casa Battló, Casa Vincens, Palau Güell, Colonia Güell, Torre Bellesguard, Casa Calvet, Colegio Teresiano de Barcelona.  The ones that most tourists come to see, however, are the still-incomplete, Sagrada Familia and Parque Güell, a park filled with architectural elements surrounded by lush gardens.

Having been to many of his installations, I decided that one of them was worthy of another visit, especially on the beautiful, sunny afternoon.

Years ago, I visited Parque Güell and wandered around for hours without paying to enter.  Perusing the website, I noticed that admission was now being charged, seemingly to limit the large number of visitors to the park at one time.  Purchasing a timed admission, I jumped on the bus and headed toward the park.

Parque Güell was built between 1900 and 1914 and was conceived by Count Eusebi Güell and designed by Antoni Gaudí with the idea of it being a park within a natural park.  Within this park, they wanted to introduce a group of high-quality homes influenced by symbolism and modernism.  These homes were to be outfitted with the latest technological advancements and not only be comfortable, but display an artistic attitude.

Officially opened as a park in 1926, on Carmel Hill in the neighborhood of La Salut, the park incorporated a large country home, Larrard House, which Count Güell moved into, hoping to add prestige to the community.  Sixty triangular lots were available for the construction of the luxury homes, however, only two houses were ever built, neither by Gaudí.  One, by Francesc Berenguer, was intended as a show house, but upon its completion in 1904, no buyers came forward.  Gaudí purchased the home and lived there from 1906 until 1926.  Today, the house, La Torre Rosa, operates as a museum within the park and was declared a historical artistic monument of national interest.

Count Eusebi Güell’s Home

As I entered the park and wandered through the fantastical pavilions, I noticed that although there was ticket booth near the gates, no one was asking for tickets as I walked through the gates and through the park.  Getting ready to enter La Torre Rosa, I suddenly realized that the ticket I had purchased online was for the Monumental Zone, the area at the main entrance, the terrace and the parts containing the mosaics.  Realizing that my entrance time was valid for the Monumental Zone for only twenty more minutes, I explained my dilemma and asked if I could return to visit the museum.

Quickly making my way to the Monumental Zone area, I was able to enter on the terrace level, however, due to construction, the famous mosaic bench was partially closed.  Still, elbowing my way through the crowded area, I was able to sit for a few minutes and enjoy the beautiful architectural element.  The stairway with the Gaudí dragon fountain was also filled with visitors, each hoping to capture a picture with the iconic piece of sculpture.  The two buildings flanking the entrance, each with unusual pinnacles and fantastically shaped roofs give the impression of gingerbread houses and one offers a permanent exhibition of the Barcelona City History Museum which focuses on the building itself, the park and the city.

After completing my Monumental Zone visit, I returned to La Torre Rosa, enjoying the amazing building filled with Gaudí’s captivating furniture and a fascinating film on the conception of the park.

La Torre Rosa

Parque Güell is truly a place of tranquility, yet, fascination.  As you walk through the lush gardens, you can almost imagine yourself to be in a fantastical dream.  Take your time to enjoy each area of the park and if you see one of the many musical performers that spend time entertaining visitors, stop and relish in their music.  The acoustics in some of the spaces are amazing!  Also, don’t forget to make your way to the park’s highest point, marked with a large cross, for a phenomenal view of the city with both the Sagrada Familia and the Montjuic area visible in the distance.   Lastly, make sure to keep your eyes open for the amazing wildlife that makes the park their home.  Scour the trees for a variety of birds, most notably, non-native parrots and short-toed eagles, that reside in the area.

With so many of Gaudí’s works to see in Barcelona, it is extremely hard to choose which to visit first!  However, if you find yourself with clear, bright skies and are tired of being indoors, Parque Güell is your go-to!

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Parque Güell

  • https://www.parkguell.cat/
  • Address:  08024 Barcelona, Spain
  • Hours:  January 1-March 24 and October 28-December 31, 0830-1815, March 25-April 29, 0800-2030, April 30-August 26, 0800-2130, August 27-October 27, 0800-2030
  • Admission:  Online Prices, Adults, €7,50, Children 0-6 years, free, Children 7-12 years, €5,25, Over 65 years, €5,25.  Ticket office prices, Adults, €8,50, Children 0-6 years, free, Children 7-12 years, €6,00, Over 65 years, €6,00.
  • Getting There:  Park Güell is off Carrer d’Olot in Barcelona and has three entrances: one on Carrer de Larrard (main entrance), one at Carretera del Carmel, nº 23, where there is also the coach park for tourist coaches, and a third on Passatge de Sant Josep de la Muntanya, which you get to by going up an escalator.  By Metro:  You can take the Metro to Lesseps or Vallcarca stations and walk, approximately 20 minutes.  By Bus:  Lines H6, D40, 24 and 92.  From the bus stop on Travessera de Dalt (lines H6 and D40), it takes 10 minutes on foot, and we would recommend going either to the Carrer Sant Josep de la Muntanya, which has an escalator, or Carrer de Larrard entrance.  From the bus stop on Plaça Catalunya (line 24-Paral·lel/El Carmel) it points along Passeig de Gracia to Carretera Carmel-Park Güell stop, wich is one of the main entrances to the Park, near the top of the hill.  From the bus stop Trelawny-Passeig Marítim, the line 92 (Pg. Marítim – Av. Tibidabo) points along Sagrada Familia and Hospital de Sant Pau, and stops at Carretera del Carmel-Park Güell in front of one of the Park’s main entrance.  By Tourist Bus or Barcelona City Tour:  From the Bus Turístic (blue line) the stop is “Park Güell”.  From the Barcelona City Tour, the route is “East” (green colour) and the stop is also “Park Güell”.  In both cases, the stop is located on Avinguda de la Mare de Déu de Montserrat, it takes 10 minutes on foot, and we would recommend the entrance on Carretera del Carmel through Av. Pompeu Fabra.

The Garden of Amalia

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Every beautiful day deserves a walk in a beautiful garden.

Blessed with agreeable weather year round, there’s always opportunity to visit many outdoors places in Athens.  One such place, is indeed, a beautiful garden.

The Athens National Gardens.

The National Garden was created between 1838 and 1840 by the first queen of Greece, Queen Amalia.

Queen Amalia, wife of king Otto, was rumored to have spent so much time (at least three hours a day) taking care of the garden, that the garden was originally named for her.  When you enter the garden from Vasilissis Amalias Avenue, you can see the impressively tall Washingtonia palm trees that the queen planted, one of the highlights of the garden.

After leaving the Temple of Olympian Zeus, I crossed the road and entered the garden from Leof. Vasilissis Olgas Street, walking along the fountains leading up to the impressive structure of the Zappeion.

The Zappeion’s construction was started in 1874 and designed by Danish architect Theophil Hansen.  Opened on October 20, 1888, it’s main purpose was to serve as  building for the Olympic games, first acting as a venue for the fencing competitions, during the 1896 Summer Olympics.  Later, the building was used as the Olympic Village (1906) and then served as the first host for the organizing committee (ATHOC) for the 2004 Olympic Games from 1998 to 1999.  It also served as the press center during the 2004 games.

Historically, the building has some significance besides it original purpose.  In 1938, the Athens Radio Station, the country’s first national broadcaster, began operating on the premises and later continued to house the National Radio Foundation until the inauguration of the House of Radio in 1970. In 1940, it was converted into a hospital and during the following year, it was commandeered by the German army to become a storehouse and barracks.   In 1979, documents were signed at the Zappeion formalizing Greece’s accession to the European Community.

Today the Zappeion is mainly used for official and private meetings and ceremonies as well as art exhibitions and occasional concerts.  It is not open for tours.

Just outside the Zappeion, be sure to look for the statue of Evangelos Zappas.  Buried underneath this statue is his head.  There are approximately 70 other statues and works of art in the gardens immediately surrounding the Zappeion, including statues of Lord Byron and the Zappas cousins, who funded the construction of the building.

After walking around the building and through its own park, I finally entered the Athen’s National Garden, a peaceful oasis within the hustle and bustle of the ancient city.

One of the first things I encountered were the massive palms planted by the Queen Amalia.  It was quite thrilling to walk between these imposing trees towering into the impossibly blue sky and think about how long ago they were planted and how they have endured.

Walking along, I encountered vine-covered walkways, which must be astonishing when in bloom and massive eucalyptus trees which provide shade during the intense heat experienced in Athens’s summer.  The garden is home to 7,000 trees, 40,000 bushes and other plants which include 519 species and varieties, with 102 of them being Greek.  There are Judas trees, oleanders, carob trees and foreign born Australian pines and Chinese trees-of-heaven.  You can also find Centenarian Holm oaks, cypress trees and Canary Island date palms as well as plants that were introduced into the garden at its inception.

There are six lakes within the premises, one with a picturesque bridge and hundreds of ducks and fish that reside there.  It is evident that these birds and amphibious creatures enjoy a well-provided-for lifestyle at the lake, as there were many small children,  bag of bread in hand, eagerly obliging their requests for a hand-out.  Children will also enjoy a small zoo-like collection of animals located within the park.

While exploring the gardens near the Vasilissis Sophias Avenue entrance make sure to look for the remains of the Roman floor.  Uncovered during nineteenth century excavations at a depth of one meter, the well-preserved floor belonged to a the courtyard of a Roman villa.

Another popular attraction is the sun dial located near the main entrance and the Washingtonia palms.  Once the primary method of telling time, visitors to the sight can be seen gazing at the sun dial and then checking their observations against their modern day timepieces for accuracy.

Other attractions within the gardens are a conservatory, where plants are cultivated before being planted in the garden, a children’s library and a small cafe where you can grab a drink or snack and refresh in the green surroundings. The entrance is located on Irodou Attikou Street.  There is also a library containing two reading rooms, a fairy tale room, a music room and a film room.  The library’s collections boasts 6,000 publications.

A walk in the Athens National Garden is truly a magical experience and one to include while exploring the city.  Adjacent to other important attractions, this oasis beckons and protects during the sweltering parts of the day.  Exercise here, meet others or just bask in its beauty.

I know…I did.

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Athens National Gardens