While walking in the La Latina neighborhood of Madrid, a glance at my map offered up an icon illustrating a point of interest.
Viaducto de Segovia.
Since I was headed in that general direction, I thought I would check it out.
I won’t lie. I saw the word viaduct and the picture in my head was of something I would see in Rome. Old…brick…arches. And don’t forget the boatloads of tourists milling about taking pictures.
What I found instead was more of a modern structure…a bridge spanning Segovia Street, 25 meters below, thus giving it its name.
Segovia Street lies in the basin formed by the old San Pedro Creek which was one of the most important routes of entry from Segovia into Madrid many centuries ago. At the time, Bailén Street ended at the edge of the ravine and pedestrians were forced to make the steep descent and ascent from Segovia Street to reach the area of the Royal Palace of Madrid.
When the Royal Court was established in 1561, King Philip began to promote the expansion of the city. He visualized extending Bailén Street across the ravine to allow easy travel to other parts of the city and country.
Although the architect of the Royal Palace, Juan Bautista Sacchetti, conceived a plan to build a span, lack of funding put the proposal on the back-burner until 1874, when a structure made of wood and iron was completed. This structure remained until 1932 when architects Ferrero, Aracil and Aldaz created plans for a concrete structure. Taking only two years to complete, this bridge sustained damage during the Spanish Civil War in the Seige of Madrid, but was repaired in 1942.
Though a plan was put into place in the later part of the 1970’s, to demolish the bridge, a decision was finally made to restore it instead. Today’s construction is a result of that restoration, which allowed for the increase of its height and span and more importantly, the increasing traffic loads and capacity.
Today, the Viaducto de Segovia is not a main tourist attraction, but one that tourists merely “happen” upon due to its proximity to the Cathedral de la Almudena and the Royal Palace of Madrid. It is quite famous, not only for having been featured in many literary works and Spanish cinema, but for a reason most do not like to talk about. Until 1998, it was the site of countless suicides, thus being dubbed “the suicide bridge”. Recognizing the ease of access pedestrians had over the low edges, authorities finally erected transparent screens to prevent further attempts.
If you find yourself in the area, take a walk across the bridge on the pedestrian lanes for a beautiful view of the Casa de Campo and the lake. When heading south, take the stairs on the left hand side to venture down to Segovia Street for a more intimate view of the bridge’s structure.
It truly is an architectural marvel and a piece of Madrid’s developmental history.
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One of the things I love about European cities is their public squares.
At any hour of the day, you can find people sitting on the benches, relaxing, talking and watching their children play. They are also the perfect meeting points for those coming together from various points in the city.
Many of these squares have beautiful fountains and artwork and are attractive to tourists for their outdoor cafes, perfect for people watching.
My favorite square in Madrid, is the Plaza Mayor. One of the first places I ever visited years ago, I still love it’s warm medieval ambiance, the many restaurants that spill into the plaza, the performers and the multitude of traditional artists that come each day and night to sell their wares. As proof, many of their paintings grace the walls of my home.
In the heart of Madrid, the Plaza Mayor was first built during the Hapsburg period of Philip III’s reign in the 15th century, just down the road from another famous plaza, Puerta del Sol. It was originally named, Plaza del Arrabal and used as the main market. After the plaza’s transferral to the city of Madrid in 1561, renovations resulted and after three major fires in its history, what you see today can be credited to architect Juan de Villanueva who lowered the surrounding buildings, closed the corners and created large entrances to the square.
Measuring 423 feet by 308 feet, the square contains 237 balconies, nine gates and a statue of Philip III on a horse in the center. In the past, executions and bullfights were once held here, but today, its major (and much milder) events include the annual Christmas market and on Sunday mornings, a stamp collecting and coin collecting market.
Next to the Plaza Mayor, on Arco de Cuchillero Street, is something that should not be missed on a visit to Madrid. The Restaurante Botin, one of my favorites, which is the oldest restaurant in the world and offers some affordable and delectable culinary delights.
Another spot that people meet in Madrid is close by…Puerta del Sol. Not only a meeting spot now, but a popular location in the past.
Between the 17th and 19th centuries, the Puerta del Sol’s Post Office was the destination for couriers coming from other areas of Spain. Residents, eager for the latest news, would congregate in the hopes of gleaning what they could from the couriers and each other.
The square originated as one of the gates in the city wall that once surrounded Madrid in the 15th century. The name of the gate, which faced east, came from the rising sun which decorated the entry. Today, there is no trace of the ancient wall or the gate, but there are other landmarks that many descend upon the area to see.
The former House of the Post Office, by Jacques Marquet was completed in 1768, now houses the seat of the Presidency of the Madrid Community. Situated across the street from the square, you can also find Kilometer Zero embedded in the sidewalk just under the building’s clock tower. This monumental slab marks the point from which the distances of Spain’s national roads are measured and specifically the starting point for measuring the distances of the country’s six national roads. It is also the starting point for Madrid’s numbered streets. The closer to the kilometer mark 0, the lower the street number.
Within the square, you can find a mounted statue of Charles III of Spain (El Rey Alcalde, the mayor-king) who is honored here for the extensive public works he set in motion.
Another famous statue is The Bear and the Strawberry Tree (el Osso y el Madroño) which is the symbol of Madrid. I will always remember this statue as once I was instructed to meet someone there, not knowing it had been moved (in 2009) from the north side at the entrance to Calle del Carmen. Needless to say, I couldn’t find it and my name was mud with the person the next day!
Another interesting statue found in the square is the Mariblanca. This statue is a copy, possibly of the famous Venus de Milo and marks the place of a former fountain displaying that figure.
My favorite thing in the square, however, can be found high overhead. The Tío Pepe lighted sign is located above the square’s former Paris Hotel. After a three year absence for renovation of the building, the sign, was returned to its original location in 2014. Tío Pepe (Spanish for Uncle Joe) has been greeting visitors to Puerta del Sol, since 1938, while enticing them to try the famous brand of Sherry.
Puerta del Sol has been the site of many demonstrations over the years, but mainly attracts visitors for its shopping, restaurants and sites. Not to be missed, if you find yourself traveling through the city on Madrid’s extensive metro and are passing through Sol, jump on out and check it out.
Just recently, I had the pleasure to stay near the Plaza de España. This beautiful square exhibits more of a park like feel and is extremely peaceful, though still located in an extremely urban area.
Located at the intersection of Grand Vía and Princesa streets, there is a large number of hotels, shopping and restaurants located nearby as well as the Royal Palace.
Despite the many attractions located in this area, however, many people come to Plaza España to see the Cervantes Monument, sculpted by Rafael Martínez Zapatero and Lorenzo Cullaut Valera. Commissioned by King Alfonso XIII on the anniversary of the publication of the second part of Don Quixote, the main part of the fountain with the figures of Don Quixote and his squire Sancho Panzo was erected in the 1920’s but not fully completed until the 1960’s when the sculptures of Aldonza and Dulcinea were added on the side.
Two architecturally important buildings flank the square, Torre Madrid and Edificio Espana, two of the tallest buildings in Madrid, thrilling those impressed by progress. For those, however, who want to enjoy nature, Plaza España offers shaded and wooded areas, a fountain and pond and seasonal landscaping.
After a long walk, I grabbed a seat opposite the monument to rest and enjoy the view. Glancing at my watch, I noticed it to be almost five, the time I had planned to meet a friend here. After my long walk from Puerta del Sol and Plaza Mayor, my feet were enjoying the respite and my eyes were enjoying the natural and architectural gems set before me.
Maybe I should have made it five-thirty…
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Walking through one of the busiest and well known places in Madrid, the Puerta del Sol, I noticed a crowd of people across the street.
They were all looking down.
Being of a curious mind, I needed to see why.
In front of the old Post Office building, under the clock tower, a slab is embedded in the concrete sidewalk.
Kilometer Zero.
This stone slab marks the point from which the distances of Spain’s national roads are measured and specifically the starting point for measuring the distances of the country’s six national roads. It is also the starting point for Madrid’s numbered streets. The closer to the kilometer mark 0, the lower the street number.
If you’ve ever heard the saying, “all roads lead to Rome”, this type of marker explains why as many countries used these type of traditional markers, most commonly in their capital cities, with the most famous marker being the “Golden Milestone” in Ancient Rome.
The Madrid marker was originally placed in this location in 1950 and replaced with newer stones in 2002 and 2009, however with the replacement in 2002, it was turned the wrong direction, but corrected in 2009.
Today, it attracts thousands of tourists and tour groups who come to see where travel begins.
If you are in the historic Puerta del Sol, challenge yourself to find Kilometer Zero.
It won’t be that hard…just look for a group of people looking down!
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Many people love to follow the Royal family. Though I am not one of them, I do enjoy seeing the way others live, including the Royal family.
Never having had the opportunity to procure tickets to Buckingham Palace, I have, however, had the opportunity to visit Kensington Palace, Windsor Castle, Hampton Court and the Palace of Holyroodhouse. It is quite interesting to view the ornate rooms and learn of the history of those who resided in these opulant manors.
In London, with time to kill, I decided that I had to venture out into the cold, but clear day. The sky was a vivid blue and although frigid, it was enjoyable to venture down High Street with no particular destination in mind. Soon finding myself in Kensington Gardens, drawn in by the sparkling lake and well manicured lawn, I stood before Kensington Palace.
Having seen the Oscar nominated movie, The Favourite, I was intrigued to learn that an exhibit on the movie’s costumes was being held within the palace.
Why not?
Paying my admission, I began my re-exploration of the royal residence that has been in the family since the 17th century and is currently the official London residence of the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge (William and Kate), the Duke and Duchess of Sussex (Harry and Meghan), Princess Eugenie and her husband, Jack Brooksbank, the Duke and Duchess of Glouchester, the Duke and Duchess of Kent and Prince and Princess Michael of Kent.
Though you won’t see any of these high profile residents roaming the halls, it is interesting to venture through the State Rooms which display many paintings and other objects from the Royal Collection.
The self guided tour directed me through the King’s State Apartments, which were the public rooms where George II and Queen Caroline entertained important guests. In the early 1700s, the King and Queen moved into the palace after the death of his father George I. Grand parties were hosted here in the lavish rooms and you can take note of the elaborate murals and paintings that grace the walls and ceilings.
Moving through the King’s Gallery, I learned that it was refurbished by George II after his arrival and was intended as a gallery for the finest pictures of the Royal Collection. The Cupola Room was used for entertaining more than official business and was the site of musical performance dancing and gambling.
Arriving at the Queen’s Apartments, the oldest part of the palace, it was here that Queen Mary II, who ruled with her husband, King Willam III in the 17th century, spent much of her time. Many portraits of William III, Mary II, Charles I and Henry VIII were hung in the Privy Chamber by Caroline to reinforce the German born couple’s legitimate right to the British throne.
The red damask covered Presence Chamber, offered a look at the space where King George II received ambassadors, men of ideas and ordinary people. An audience with the King could change a person’s life and many were brought here asking for favors or seeking royal approval. In 1734, the King and Queen received an Indian chief and his attendants from the new Americas colony, Georgia.
The Queen’s Drawing Room was where Mary spent much of her time. Her beautifully adorned bed can be seen in the Queen’s Bedroom and was where Mary’s half-brother may have been born at St. James’ Palace in 1688.
The Dining Room was a bit smaller than I imagined and possibly the place where Mary took in her meals when she desired privacy. Moving through the Queen’s closet, I learned of the story of how Mary contracted smallpox, dying and leaving William to rule alone.
Finally, it was in the extended Gallery where I finally discovered the exhibition of the costumes from The Favourite. Though there were some paper mache duplications that I had encountered in the King’s State Apartments, it was here that the actual costumes were on display. It was quite thrilling to see them up close and remember the scenes that they played a vital role.
Princess Diana, though now gone for almost twenty-two years, has remained fondly in the memory of the world. The palace recognizes that there are many who are still fascinated with her lifestyle and legacy and I was glad to see the permanent exhibit, Diana, Her Fashion Story was still available for viewing. Pictures of Diana grace the walls, along with quotes and stories, however, it is the glass cases that contain the showstoppers…a large number of Diana’s outfits worn for various occasions. Each outfit contains a placard and picture that describes the occasion worn as well as the designer of the ensemble.
The last room that we were able to inspect contained some of the royal jewels, including Queen Victoria’s Emerald Necklace, Earrings and Broach, The Fife Diamond Tiara, given to Princess Louise, Queen Victoria’s granddaughter, by her husband, the Duke of Fife and Princess Louise’s Diamond Necklace Tiara, gifts from her parents which can also be transformed into a necklace.
Eventually, I made my way through the gift shop and out into the gardens. Though the pond was drained for winter maintenance and nothing was in bloom, it was interesting to stop and imagine what it might look like in a couple of months with the approaching warmer weather.
With an hour of so of daylight remaining, I decided to make the most of the afternoon and walked out to the lake. Hundreds of birds, including graceful swans swam through the cold water looking for a handout from the children who had come prepared with bags of bread crusts. Though I am a bit afraid of the aggressive, feathered creatures, it was nice to capture some close-up photographs.
Eventually, with waning light, it was time to head back to High Street to search for dinner. Though I had visited the Palace a few years prior, it was nice to see it once again and especially to enjoy The Favourite exhibition.
Makes me want to go and see the movie again!
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Getting There: London Underground, High Street Kensington Station, Circle and District lines and 10-15 minute walk. Queensway Station, Central line and 10-15 minute walk, Notting Hill Station, Central, Circle and District lines and 20-25 minute walk. Bus, routes 70, 94, 148, 390 (to Bayswater Road) and routes 9, 10, 49, 52, 70, 452 (to Kensington High Street).
Have you ever imagined what it was like to travel by subway when the lines were first introduced in New York City?
At the NY Transit Museum you can find out!
While staying with a friend in Brooklyn, we were searching for something to occupy our morning. She suggested the Transit Museum and I rather reluctantly agreed. After all, we were in Brooklyn and one would think that all the best museums are in Manhattan.
Not so!
The NY Transit Museum offers a look at the history of the city’s transportation from early ships, trains and passenger ferries to modern subways, buses and cars. The museum highlights how mass transit has helped to make the region what it is today through artistic renderings, historic maps, guidebooks and digital technology.
As we walked through the first part of the museum, we were able to analyze photographs and read stories of how the massive undertaking of the construction of the subway system was approached.
Moving on, we witnessed the progression of the toll booths used within the subway system and how payments moved from tokens to the present day metro card. Dating back as far as the subway’s opening in 1904 until ones in used as recently as 2003, the turnstiles displayed here include some used in the 1939 New York World’s Fair, designed to require passengers to pay double fare upon both entry and exit at the World’s Fair subway station. Most of the turnstiles are operable and we enjoyed walking freely through each of them.
Further back on the upper level, the museum covers the other means of transportation within the region via roadways…cars, buses, and older trolleys and some of the methods used to direct traffic, including signs and traffic lights. This part is especially exciting for the younger set as it provides some great photo ops. Ever wanted to see what its like to be a bus or subway driver in the city? You can sit behind the wheel and controls and get a feel for it here!
Other parts of the museum cover a wide selection of maps of the city and the metro system and the city as well as mementos and collections of items found (or used to be found) in the metro stations. There is even a section if comic strips and artwork dealing with travel.
My favorite part of the museum, however, is the one that should be the main reason for visiting. Downstairs is the decommissioned Court Street subway station which was opened on April 9, 1936. Here, two fully powered and operational subway tracks display many historic examples of the city’s subway and elevated railway equipment. These rail cars can still be operated and date back to the city’s subway system beginnings. These cars are fully furnished with vintage advertisements and route maps and you can wander freely throughout each car, taking a seat for a rest (and pretend trip), if you wish.
The subway car which was rebuilt for the movie Money Train is also part of the museum’s collection and the station has been used for many movies and television series throughout the years, including Guilty Bystander, The FBI Story, 1974’s The Taking of Pelham One Two Three, 2009’s The Taking of Pelham 123 and Life on Mars.
The museum’s subway cars are also sometimes used for excursions such as holiday specials at the end of the year and Yankee and Met events and tickets are available for anyone to purchase.
A few specialized railwork vehicles used in the past for maintenance can be viewed on the platform as well as a large wheel truck and motor (bogie). You can learn about the development of the New York’s rail transit system by checking out the informational panels in the center of the station.
Since space in the station is limited, a large number of museum cars are kept off-site in various subway yards and shops awaiting restoration, undergoing restoration, or in storage. In addition to the museum’s large subway car collection, it also has possession of a sizable fleet of vintage buses. With no area to display these artifacts, they are stored in various bus depots around the city and brought out for special events such as the museum’s annual “Bus Festival” which has been held since 1994.
The New York Transit Museum was quite the enjoyable way to spend a few hours and I must admit, even though it may have not been my first choice for our entertainment for the day, I loved every bit of it and learned a great deal. If you love travel, like I do, take the time to visit this amazing museum and learn about the history of New York City’s transportation.
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Hours: Tuesday-Friday, 1000-1600, Saturday and Sunday, 1100-1700. Closed Monday and major holidays.
Admission: Adults, $10, Children (ages 2-17) $5, Seniors 62+: $5, Free on Wednesdays. Visitors with Disabilities: $5 with MTA Reduced-Fare MetroCard, MTA Reduced-Fare Easy Pay Card, Access-a-Ride Card, Able-Ride Card, Para-transit Card, or Suffolk County Accessible Transportation (SCAT) Card
Getting There: Nearest subway stations, Borough Hall (2,3,4,5, N,R,W), Jay Street-Metrotech (A,C,F,R), Hoyt Street (2,3).
After spending some time walking around Barcelona one afternoon, I stumbled upon the Barcelona City History Museum. It was getting a little windy and cold outside and it was time to move indoors. Discovering that admission was free on Sundays after 3:00 p.m., I glanced at my watch and found that it was perfect timing!
The Barcelona City History Museum (MUHBA) is dedicated to conservation, research, communication and exhibits pertaining to the historical heritage of the city from its origins in Roman times until the present day. Funded by the Barcelona municipality, it is located in the Gothic Quarter and the place to go if you are interested in Barcelona’s past, present and future.
In 1931, the late gothic palace, Casa Padellàs, was moved stone by stone to Plaça del Rei for its preservation and to avoid its demolition. While it was being reconstructed, remains of the ancient city of Barcino were discovered. When a whole quarter of the Roman city was uncovered, it was decided that this would be the location of the historical museum that would later also evolve into an archaeological museum.
On the entry level, in the rebuilt Casa Padellàs, there are many statues and pieces discovered during the archaeological excavations as well as a film that describes the evolution of the city. The exhibited objects display the history of Barcelona from late medieval to modern times, highlighting the government and its regulations, the guilds, civic celebrations, wars and conflicts, crafts and trade, the International Expositions held in the city and its transformations.
The best part, however, is the subterranean level with walkways that wind its way around the archaeological ruins of Barcino. On display here are beautiful mosaic pieces, carved texts, buried wine vats, columns, the Baptistery and main doorway of the Episcopal hall, a Roman house and the Episcopal Palace.
YMy favorite part of the complex, however, was the Palace Chapel. The chapel of the Mayor Royal Palace, dedicated to Saint Agatha, was built at the beginning of the 14th century by King James II. The beautiful vaulted ceiling, stained glass and gothic altarpiece by Jaume Huguet capture your interest amid the otherwise plain interior.
Located a short walk from the Cathedral of Barcelona, incorporate it into your day while in the Gothic quarter to educate yourself on this city’s unique beginnings.
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When I first visited Paris, one of the first things I remember (besides the Eiffel Tower), was the Arc de Triomphe. Located near my hotel, I was fascinated by the grand structure which seemed to have a constant stream of cars driving around it at all hours.
On another trip, I discovered an arch in Milan in the Piazza Sempione, and yet another, in Rome, the Arch of Constantine.
Hey wait, just how many arches are there? I thought this was a Parisian thing!
How wrong I was!
Triumphal arches are the most distinctive type of architecture that is associated with ancient Rome. These arches were mainly used for various reasons, mainly to commemorate the founding of new colonies, generals’ victories, construction of roadways and bridges, deaths of members of the imperial family or the accession of a new emperor.
These arches often span roadways, have one or more arched passageways and are decorated with carvings, sculpted reliefs and dedications.
Arches in the Roman style have been constructed in many cities around the world. Yes, the Arc de Triomphe, Milan’s Arco della Pace and Arch of Constantine, but there are so many more, including the Narva Triumphal Arch in Saint Petersburg, the Wellington Arch in London, the Arcul de Triumf in Bucharest, the India Gate in Delhi, the Arch of Caracalla in Tebessa, Algeria, Arch of Titus in Rome, the Siegestor in Munich and the Soldiers’ and Sailors’ Arch in New York, just to name a few.
A few years later, while walking around in Barcelona, I was surprised to see another arch, very similar to the one in Paris, without the cars. Instead, there were many people walking around and through the arch onto the promenade of the Passeig de Lluis Companys.
Barcelona’s Arc de Triomf was built as the main access gate for the 1888 World Fair, by Josep Vilaseca, and still stands today, a true icon of the city. As it once welcomed visitors, it does so today, guiding them to the Parc de la Ciutadella.
On the day that I decided to revisit this monument, the afternoon was one of those that are hard to duplicate on a winter’s day. The sun was radiant, the sky brilliantly clear and the temperature extremely mild. Hundreds of people walked along the Passeig de Lluis Companys, enjoying the climate’s perfection!
As I approached the arch from Avenida de Vilanova, I marveled at the reddish brickwork standing vividly against the blue sky. The front frieze contains the stone sculpture Barcelona rep les nacions (“Barcelona welcomes the nations”) by Josep Reynes. Walking along the sides of the arch, I studied the friezes which include the stories of agriculture and industry by Antoni Vilanova and of trade and art by Torquat Tassó. The two pillars of the arch feature carved bats, something unexpected, but what I learned, were the emblem of King Jaume I, who ruled Barcelona during a period of prosperity. As I walked through the arch to the other side, I marveled at the number of people out and about as well as vendors hawking everything from jewelry to balloons.
Making my way to the concrete gates that line the Passeig de Lluis Companys, I stopped to study amazing urns that top the concrete gate, while occasionally dodging a biker or two. I especially enjoyed studying the unique lighting structures that also provide seating for visitors as well as a couple of interesting statues, including one of Pau Claris, an important political figure who proclaimed the Catalan Republic under the protection of France.
The best way to appreciate the arch, however, is to stop, turn and take a look at it every so often as you walk toward the Parc de la Ciutadella. Its amazing to see even from afar with the palm trees that line the walkway, framing its beauty.
So…how many have triumphal arches have I seen so far? About five…but with many trips planned for the future, I will be sure to seek them all out.
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Looking outside my window of my hotel room in Barcelona, I spy a strange-looking cylinder decorating the skyline.
Torre Glòries…formerly known as the Torre Agbar.
The contemporary bullet-shaped landmark ascends from Plaça de les Glòries and fills the skyline with the reflected colors of the Mediterranean by day and a multi-hued schemes by night. Though seemingly out of place among the more commonly shaped buildings, I rather enjoy its presence as it always lets me know where I am in the city.
Inaugurated in 2003, the iconic landmark was designed by Atelier Jean Nouvel to act as the headquarters for the water company, Grup Agbar. Often described as a water tower by the uninformed, because of its owners, it is not that in the true sense of the description, but rather only an office building. Standing just over 473 feet tall, it utilizes solar power and is covered with different colored glass louvers which can be tilted at different angles. These window blinds are regulated by temperature sensors (regulating the consumption of energy for air conditioning) and are illuminated by 4,500 LED devices. During holidays and other events, the tower’s lighting scheme can easily be changed by computer.
Though it is the third tallest building in the city and one for which the city has become known, it has not come about without it critics. Opened in June 2005, to a cost of 130 million euros, its design concept was described by the architect as one of a geyser spouting upward, the perfect home for a water company, though further leading people to believe it to be a water tower. It has also been said to have been inspired by the nearby mountain, Montserrat. Many others have also described the tower as having a phallic character. This unusual shape has garnered it several nicknames, el supositori (“the suppository”), l’obús (“the shell”) and it has been said that its round shape does not foster a productive environment for those who work within its walls.
The tower, though touted as a tourist attraction, is one that can only viewed from afar. Many tour groups and the Hop On, Hop Off buses offer it as a stopping point on their circuits, however, it is not open to the general public…such a waste as I had once read that it had intended to offer an observation deck. Views of the city from this location would have been unparalleled. However, even viewing it from the outside, it is still a landmark that cannot be missed. Go on a clear, blue-sky day and you won’t be disappointed with how beautiful it stands out against the heavens.
And, at night, check its location against the skyline to get your bearings…but seeing the luminous beauty of this water tower is even more wonderful!
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If you’ve ever been down to southern Louisiana, you’ve probably heard the Cajun French saying, “Laissez Les Bon Temps Roulez”.
“Let the good times roll.”
Having a good time is a way of life in Louisiana. We eat well, drink well, party well, love our music, our families and our heritage. Nothing is done half-way…we go ALL OUT!
And when it comes to our Mardi Gras parties, we definitely let the good times roll…literally…float after float.
Thousands of people visit Louisiana to attend Mardi Gras each year. Not restricted to the streets of New Orleans, there are many parades and celebrations throughout area, especially in the southern part of the state.
When I lived in New Orleans, Mardi Gras was a time of the year that I looked forward to most; not only for the King Cake (though that was an awesome aspect) but for the parades held during the weeks before Fat Tuesday. It was so much fun to stand atop my stool or ladder and try to get the beads, doubloons, cups and trinkets thrown from the elaborately decorated floats.
Years had passed since we left the city for a job opportunity six states away. Despite my attempts at recreating Mardi Gras in my home and at children’s preschool, I desperately missed the excitement and fun.
A trip to New Orleans with my husband in January, got me thinking of the upcoming festivities. Planning a trip with friends, we decided to head to the Big Easy during the busy weekend before Mardi Gras Day.
The streets were alive with visitors as we drove into the city and our hotel lobby filled with guests and their luggage, waiting to head up to their rooms.
Since our hotel was adjacent to five of the seven parades rolling through the downtown area during the weekend, we decided to catch the first two across the street from our hotel. The intersection of Poydras and Tchopitoulas streets was the end of the line for the floats and marchers of the Krewe’s of Iris and Tucks so it was going to be feast or famine…the float riders were either going to be out of throws or unloading their remainder.
It was interesting for me to be in an area where there were no barricades to keep the parade-goers at a safe distance from the floats and without my trusty ladder or step stool to give me a higher vantage point, I wasn’t sure if it would be the enjoyable experience that I was accustomed to.
As the floats began to turn onto Tchopitoulas street, you could feel the energy of the crowd ramp up. Everyone jumped to their feet and more people packed the area around us.
The oldest all-female Krewe of Iris presented 34 double and triple tandem floats with a theme of “Iris Through a Child’s Eyes”. Though the crowd became more dense around us, we were able to catch many beads and trinkets…enough that we were able to run upstairs to our room and dump them to make room in our bags for more.
The comedic Krewe of Tucks rolled immediately behind Iris and for its 51st parade with a theme of “Tucks Get Sick”. Floats with the titles of “Acid Reflux” and “Shingles and Ready to Mingle” carried masked riders throwing colored toilet paper, toilet brushes and the prized hand-decorated toilet plungers.
What I noticed for both parades were the new marching groups that were not present during my last New Orleans Mardi Gras 22 years ago. Though dancing groups like Dance Connection were still filling the gaps between the floats, new groups like the Amelia EarHawts, the Laissez Boys, the Dragon Riders, the 610 Stompers and the Rolling Elvi now give many the opportunity to show off their costumes and sometimes dance moves to the carnival-goers.
Once the daytime parades were complete, we headed over to St. Charles Avenue, a popular location to catch the Mardi Gras processions. The narrow roadway is barricaded to protect the crowds and it was already packed with people who had staked out their positions since early in the day, catching Iris and Tucks also. For the first time, I had opted to purchase tickets to the one of the many grandstands that line St. Charles Avenue and Canal Street. This one, at the Blake Hotel, was quite expensive, but I had opted to do this so that my friends did not have to spend the entire day camped out, giving us a place to sit and rest during the parade.
The Krewe of Endymion rolled through around 7:00 p.m. and though we had good seats for viewing, we discovered that they were not that optimum for catching the many hi-tech throws that come from the beautifully lit floats. The Blake Hotel has a balcony and because we were sitting on the highest part of the grandstand, most of the throws being cast higher up were going to the balcony. In addition, the hotel had promised designated bathrooms for the grandstand ticket holders, something very important when sitting for hours on a parade route and often imbibing on adult beverages. Instead of the more sanitary indoor bathrooms that were promised, we were instructed to use the long line of public port-o-lets next to Lafayette Square…no apologies offered.
Still, we tried to enjoy the $8 million parade’s 36 massive floats with their theme of “Wonder Tales of Science Fiction”. Heading the long line of floats bringing to life classic stories such as “Gulliver’s Travels”, “20,000 Leagues Under the Sea” and “War of the Worlds” was the Grand Marshal, that we were were excited to learn was popular recording artist Flo Rida.
The following day, weather threatened to hinder the festivities so the decision to remove the bands and troupes from each of the three parades was made as well as instituting a starting time of an hour earlier than originally planned. The Krewes of Okeanos, Mid-City and Thoth rolled along the parade route one after the other, anxious to complete their run before the skies opened up.
Our tickets at the Hilton’s grandstand were a great deal, offering seating for the three day parades as well as the night’s parade, Bacchus, for much less than the price of the Blake Hotel, plus clean indoor bathroom facilities. Arriving early, we opted to sit in the front row of the grandstand and were not disappointed. We were able to alternately sit and stand and enjoy Okeanos’ parade entitled “Okeanos Celebrates 70”, Mid-Citys’ “Mid-City Thinks Outside the Box” and Thoth’s, “Thoth Salutes the Greats”. Some of the unique throws were Okeanos’ 13-inch crawfish trays and 70th logo bracelets and beads, Mid-City’s vinyl stress man dolls, t-shirts and sunshades and Thoth’s signature fedora hats, rubber chickens, koozies, capes and scarfs. We were able to enjoy American Cajun fiddler and singer, Amanda Shaw performing on one of Thoth’s floats before the rain drops slowly started.
One of the things I have learned over the years is that when you have a good spot, don’t leave. Though my friends wanted to return to the hotel a few blocks away for a few hours, I knew that if we all left, we might return to our seats being taken and I also knew that the crowd in the grandstand, at the Hilton, for the popular night parade would become much more dense. Placing plastic sheeting along our seats to keep them dry and our bead bags to hold them in place, I hunkered down in the stairwell, while the winds whipped and the heavens poured for almost two solid hours.
Once the weather cleared and my friends returned, we watched for the telltale signs of the approaching Krewe of Bacchus. Not so hard when you have the WWL Mardi Gras Parade Tracker on your iPhone!
The Krewe of Bacchus is one of my favorites with their returning signature floats Bacchasaurus, King Kong, Queen Kong and Baby Kong (redesigned into the Kong Family float), Bacchagator and Bacchawhoppa floats. Some of the superkrewe’s other floats were based on movies and television shows filmed in Louisiana and the Grand Marshal was Jensen Ackles of the television series’ Supernatural.
Like Endymion, many of the night parade’s throws were luminous or fluorescent and included a lighted clapperboard, lighted Bacchus Oscars, the Kong (a 64-ounce King Kong-size cup), a Bacchawhoppa whale hat with a fiber optic water spout and throw back toys including a puzzle cube and a viewfinder.
Almost three hours after its start, the Krewe of Bacchus finally finished, wrapping up our fun Mardi Gras weekend.
If going to Mardi Gras is something that interests you, here are some things to consider:
Book a hotel on one of the main parade routes if possible. If you are able to run to your room for bathroom breaks and drinks, it will make your experience much easier.
If you can bring a step stool, it will give you a better vantage point and allow the float riders to see you better. There are new rules regarding ladders, however, and the ladders must be set back six feet from the curb.
There are quite a few grandstands to consider along the parade routes. Factors to consider are bathroom access and whether people are allowed to stand in front of the grandstands or if the grandstand forms part of the barricade. For the Hilton we were up high so no one could block our view, but other grandstands like Poydras A and B have a walkway in front of the grandstand. Access is first come, first serve and if you are on the bottom row, people are allowed to stand on the walkway against the barricade without paying for access to the grandstand and blocking your view.
Flashing for beads is not really something you see along the parade routes, so if you are attending with children, don’t worry. Most of the flashing is done in the French Quarter where the floats do not venture.
If you are going to New Orleans during Mardi Gras, expect long lines for restaurants and attractions. If those are the things that you are looking for, consider going at another time of year. If you are going to experience Mardi Gras, do just that! Enjoy the parades, especially the big ones, such as Endymion and Bacchus. It is such a unique experience that only can be experienced once a year.
If experiencing Mardi Gras on a smaller scale is more your speed, consider hitting some of the other celebrations and parades throughout the state. Baton Rouge, Lafayette and other cities offer larger scale parades throughout the season and places like Church Point and Mamou offer Courir de Mardi Gras, a traditional celebration.
Was it what my friends expected? I’m not sure…it’s a lot to take in as a first timer.
Was it all that I remembered? Yes!
As a Louisiana native and a kid at heart, I truly do believe in letting the good times roll and roll they did!
For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.
Having been to many European markets, I know what makes a good one.
Variety!
Does the European inspired French Market in New Orleans measure up?
Absolutely!
Recently, while in the city, I headed down to the French Market to find some unique souvenirs. Though it was late afternoon in winter and some of the vendors had found it too cold to remain, I knew from previous visits that it is usually a quite lively venue.
Offering shopping, dining, music and local tradition, this open-air market has its origins in the Native American trade dating back to 1791. As French and Spanish colonists opened the market up to ships and traders from all over the world, this set up the stage for expansion during the next three centuries. Immigrants from Europe, Africa and the Caribbean, saw the opportunity to offer their own wares at the market, offering various products including Italian meats, fabrics, produce, African coffee and spices, and the bazaar continued to expand.
By the late 19th century, the French Market was in need of a makeover…one that would give it some order. Architect, Joseph Abeilard, designed a modern day structure which is still in use today.
In 1978, the former mayor, Ernest, N. Morial, made the decision to kick up the market’s appeal by introducing Dutch Alley, a pedestrian plaza at Dumaine and St. Phillip Streets. This addition included a performance tent, historic statues, the Dutch Alley Artist Coop and the visitor center for the New Orleans Jazz National Park.
Though I had just had lunch a couple of hours before, my stomach growled at the sights laid out before me and the smells that permeated the air. The famous Cafe du Monde, the outdoor cafe which specialized in beignets and cafe au lait, is nearby but I had already had an order of the powdered sugar covered fried dough the day before and I was itching for something new. Browsing the iconic dishes…Po Boys, Gator Burgers, Jambalaya, Cheese Grits, just to name a few, it was a hard decision knowing I had to leave room for dinner later. With my mind made up, I headed toward the counter for beignets…yes again…but this time from a small dessert establishment which specializes in Praline Beignets! Fried with the praline at the center, it all melts together in your mouth for an unbelievable culinary experience!
My stomach full and my strength replenished, I headed through the protracted market (five blocks in all!), stopping along the way to inspect the t-shirts, produce, specialty art, handmade crafts, prints, scrubs and lotions, handmade jewelry, accessories, photography and much more, offered for sale. Believe me, there’s not much that you can’t find here…you are only limited by the cash in your pocketbook!
If you are staying in a local home and are interested in making the most of your own culinary skills, then the Farmers Market Pavilion is your place! Open daily, this is the place to find seasonal vegetables and homegrown spices in addition to specialty foods with worldly inspirations, especially on Wednesdays and Sundays when vendors come from the entire region with their wares.
If you are visiting in the Spring, look out for the Creole Tomato Festival which is free to the public and offers an endless array of fresh picked tomatoes and tomato based dishes unique to the area.
New Orleans is called the Big Easy, but with so much to experience, especially at the French Market, it is definitely not easy! Grab a table, grab some food and grab the experience!
Check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.
Address: 700-1010 Decatur St, New Orleans, LA 70116
Hours: Daily, 0800-1730.
Admisssion: free
Getting There: Take the St. Charles streetcar from Uptown or the Canal Street streetcar from Mid-City and get off at Canal and Carondelet Street to walk a few blocks to the river. There are paid parking lots along S. Peters Street near Jackson Square.