We had climbed Pacaya volcano in the spring and with Mount Vesuvius hovering in the distance, well…there was just no question…we had to climb it as well!
After our arrival in Naples, I had seen many tour companies advertising trips with transportation to and from Mount Vesuvius. Our first full day had been put aside for Pompeii and we assumed that we would take the next day to tackle the imposing mountain, however, when we arrived, we found that we could leave from the Pompeii train station for a trip to the volcano. Was it a good idea? Maybe.
After our investigation of the ancient ruins was complete, we signed up for the three o’clock departure from the Pompeii train station. Transportation was on a large, air conditioned bus and the winding journey lasted about forty minutes, dropping us at the entrance to Mount Vesuvius National Park.
We were given one and a half hours to make the ascent and return to our bus for the trip back to Pompeii.
Half and hour up the crater trail.
Half an hour around the rim.
Half and hour back down.
Not a problem. We were already ahead of schedule, being able to squeeze in Vesuvius on a day that we thought would only be devoted to Pompeii.
The trail was steep, but nothing that we couldn’t handle. If there was ever any doubt, however, I just watched the Russian woman a few paces ahead, making her way daintily up the dusty path in her kitten heels! We were glad, however, that the buses had the advantage of parking near the entrance to the trail, unlike those who arrive by car and were required to park further down the mountain.
The scenery was outstanding as we began our ascent and it only got better as we made it to the rim. Peering into the crater was quite thrilling, yet a bit uneventful. Maybe I expected a rush of hot air and a churning cauldron of lava! Instead, there were high walls with loose rocks cascading down into the interior and resting on the floor of the crater. Still, how often do you get to peer into a volcano…and as we spied some escaping steam, we had to remember that it was still a live one!
Continuing our hike around the rim, we encountered some small memorials, more views of the caldera and spectacular vistas of Naples, the sweeping bay and Pompeii.
The well groomed path finally culminated at the souvenir shop, La Capannuccia, where we grabbed some water and stopped to enjoy the wind in our hair and the sun dipping lower on the horizon.
Checking the time, we realized that it was time to head back down the path to our waiting bus.
Not seeing the bus in the parking area, we noticed many of the other visitors that had ridden over with us, searching for our return transportation, as well. While waiting for the bus to arrive, we noticed a bus marked for Naples. It was tempting but we had no clue if there was space on the bus or where the bus would drop us in Naples. We also had return transportation to Pompeii and then return train tickets back to Naples. Before we could check to see if we had enough money for this direct transfer, the bus pulled away, making us wish we had done a bit more planning, but then, there was our bus to Pompeii pulling into the lot.
So much for being ahead of schedule!
All in all, without my usual Plan A, B and C, we did get to see both attractions, Pompeii and Mount Vesuvius, leaving us free to continue our exploration of the Amalfi Coast the next day! But, if you plan to visit both of these amazing places from Naples or Sorrento in the same day, be sure to leave early and explore all transportation options.
Take it from us! It’s worth the extra effort to knock them out on the same day!
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Hours: January, February, November, December, daily from 0900 to 1500, March, October, 0900-1600, April, May, June, September, 0900-1700, July, August, 0900-1800. Barring inclement weather or unforeseen circumstances, the trail to the crater is open all year round, including Sundays and holidays.
Admission: Adults, 10€, Students 8€
Getting There: By car, take the A3 Napoli-Salerno highway to the Torre del Greco or Herculaneum exit, and follow the signs for Vesuvio. At 800 meters above sea level, there is a parking area that costs 5€ for all day. Shuttles to the ticket office depart from here, and cost 2€ (free for children). It is a bit of a steep climb to the ticket office so taking the shuttle is recommended. By public transport, you can take the bus or shuttle from CIrcumvesuviana Pompei-Villa dei Misteri stop or the Circumvesuviana Ercolano Scavi stop. Buses and shuttles cost 22€ round trip, entrance to the park included with transportation directly to the ticket office located about 200 meters below the trail head for the crater. There are also EAV bus routes between Pompeii and Mount Vesuvius every 50 minutes.
With Mount Vesuvius looming over the city it was only a matter of time.
The story of the destruction of Pompeii has intrigued me for as long as I can remember. The thought of the citizens being buried from the ash descending from the volcano’s fiery lava, is something nightmares are made of. Having recently hiked to a nearby ridge of Guatemala’s Volcan Pacaya, I watched the lava flow quickly down it’s slopes and felt the heat emanating from the lava’s rocks. What if something causes the lava flow to change direction…my direction? Certainly, this is what the citizens of Pompeii must have thought. Only that time…it did.
For years, while visiting Rome, it was difficult knowing I was so close to Pompeii, but never having sufficient time to make the hour and a half journey. This time, I was in Naples and I had ample time. This was my chance.
Rising early, we made our way on the metro to Naples’ train station. Following directions to the Circumvesuviana train, we purchased tickets and waited patiently for the train which would take us to Pompeii. To say we were excited was an understatement and as we pulled into the station, we decided to join a tour group to make the most of our visit.
Following our tour guide into the maze of streets and buildings, we learned that in 79 AD, the cities of Pompeii and Herculaneum were buried under as much as twenty feet of volcanic ash and pumice when Mount Vesuvius erupted, preserving the cities as they once were. This was the most surprising to me as I had always envisioned that most of Pompeii would be in ruins.
In 1763, Pompeii was uncovered and identified. A year later, excavations, let by Karl Weber and then, Francisco la Vega began. Preserved under the layers of ash, the wealthy city was frozen as it was on that fateful day. Fine public buildings, luxurious homes, furnishings, works of art and human bodies were entombed in the ash. Yet, no petrified human bodies that I had envisioned. Instead, where the bodies were entombed, voids were left leaving the archaeologists to fill and use as molds to make plaster casts of these individuals in their final moments of life.
As we walked along the UNESCO World Heritage Site, we discovered that as the ash buried the city, it preserved it almost immaculately. Many homes and buildings lined the cobblestones streets, some still sporting their roofs and all four walls. Inside these buildings, there were some with artwork still view-able as well as ancient graffiti carved on the walls and inside rooms. Along the outsides of many buildings there were paintings and words, believed to have been a sort of newspaper for the citizens, changing often and informing of current events.
Casa di Fabius Amandio
Casa di Fabius Amandio
Fullonica di Stephanus (laundry)
One of the first sites we visited was the Triangular Forum, which garners its name from its unusual shape. Entering through a monumental corridor we were lead into a triangular square surrounded by a 95 column colonnade surrounding an open area, making for some spectacular photographs. Our guide explained that the wide corridor might have been used as a running track or for horse races held during religious festivals.
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Exiting the Triangular Forum, we found ourselves near a large theater. Although the entrance was a tight one, we waited patiently to enter the small shaft entering the semi-circular stands fronting a theater stage. Standing on the stairs, we were trying to get a great selfies when we heard singing. A great testament to the amazing acoustics of the theater, we listened intently as one of the visitors stood on the theater stage and belted out an operatic solo! Truly a beautiful moment!
Gran TeatroGran Teatro
One of the most interesting (and popular) sites we visited was the ancient lupanar, more commonly known in today’s terms as the brothel. Though not known whether the frescoes that decorate the upper walls were descriptions of what customers could order or just decoration, they were fascinating to see along with the stone beds.
Lupanar (brothel)
Heading toward the Forum, we found it quite crowded as it probably was during its heyday. The Forum was the main center of life in Pompeii, where citizens met to shop and exchange information as well as experience religious and commercial events. It was here that we were able to see some of the plaster casts of the residents who were consumed by the ash and pumice. A very eerie sight indeed, one appeared to be asleep and another in a prayer-like pose. Though I had anticipated seeing these figures, I had thought they would be scattered throughout the site, not behind bars, however, I later learned that at the rear of the ancient site, in the Garden of the Fugitives, there are 13 preserved casts of the citizens that died there in the vineyard.
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In the middle of the Forum we found the Temple of Apollo, one of the oldest religious buildings of Pompeii. Though the statues found here are replicas (the originals now reside at the Archaeological Museum of Naples), it is one of the most important parts of the site, as it was in this location that different gods were worshiped, including Apollo and Mercury.
Temple of ApolloTemple of ApolloTemple of Apollo
It was here, in the Forum, that we parted ways with our guide who left us with some ideas on other parts of Pompeii to visit. Following her advice, we headed to the nearby Forum Baths. The interior of these baths are well preserved, and it is possible to discern how the baths were heated when they were still in use. Though they are the smallest of all the bath ruins in Pompeii, they were the most elegant and included separate entrances for men and women.
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The largest house in Pompeii (30,000 square feet) is named for the unique statue in the front courtyard, The Dancing Faun, which we immediately noticed upon our entrance. The House of Faun was built in the 2nd century BC and is the most complete surviving example of a wealthy and luxurious private residence. As we walked throughout the remains of the grand home, there were many mosaics including one depicting a battle scene; the Alexander Mosaic. Today, what is seen is a re-creation, with the original residing in the Archaeology Museum of Naples.
House of the Dancing FaunHouse of the Dancing FaunHouse of the Dancing Faun
Moving through the streets, we entered many structures; shops, homes, latrines. What we headed for next, however, was located at the far western part of the city…the oldest surviving Roman amphitheater in existence…the Pompeii Spectacula. This was the first Roman amphitheater built of stone and constructed over a century before Rome’s famous Colosseum. This immense amphitheater could seat the entire population of Pompeii and hosted all the sporting events in the city.
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Though seeing the venue of ancient sporting events was quite thrilling, we were more impressed with the large exhibit in the interior tunnels detailing another important event held there in 1972…Pink Floyd: Live at Pompeii, a concert documentary film which featured the band performing in the ancient site. Why Pompeii’s ancient amphitheater? Many photographs detailed the event, yet the most compelling part of the exhibit was the story of how the director of the film dropped his passport while visiting Pompeii. Sneaking in after hours to find it, he was mesmerized by the deserted amphitheater and its silence…he decided then and there that it would make an excellent backdrop for the band’s music. As they say, the rest is history.
The Grand Palestra was next door and offered a place to get out of the intense early afternoon heat. Offering an art exhibit in one of its interior halls, we admired the wide array of modern craftsmanship before admiring the picturesque open area that was used as an exercise park and a place for youth groups. A place for sports and games, it also housed a pool for swimming.
Walking among the tombs of the Necropolis of Porta Nocera, we headed back among the maze of streets, gardens and buildings. Pompeii is such a massive archaeological site that there was so much more that we would not get to discover.
Because we had hired a tour guide, we were not given a map, being told that there were a shortage and only those purchasing an audio guide were allowed to take one. This made it quite difficult to explore all parts of the site and comprehend exactly what we were seeing. Though we searched for a “basilica” as per our tour guides instructions, we could not find what we thought we were searching for as we expected to find a church. Indeed we did find The Basilica, a lavish building used for business and the administration of justice, we did not realize our discovery until later.
Despite our directional shortcomings, we did see a great deal of Pompeii, however, to fully see the entire site, a full day or more should be allotted. With Herculaneum and Mount Vesuvius nearby and limited time allowed in our schedule, we eventually had to come to the conclusion that we had seen all that we could.
Pompeii, Italy’s lost city, is something that all visitors to southern Italy should take the time to see. More impressive than I could ever imagine, we were dazzled with all that we experienced and realized that this archaeological site was one that could be seen on multiple occasions while still discovering new items of interest.
Pompeii was once Italy’s lost city…lost to the forces of nature, but found again to be learned from and explored by future generations.
Just make sure you download a map and have a plan.
Pompeii may have once been lost, but you don’t have to be!
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Address: Via Traversa Andolfi 20, 80045 Pompeya, Italia, 80045
Hours: March 1-November 31, daily, 0900-1700 (last admission 1530), April 1-October 31, daily, 0900-1930 (last admission 1800). Saturday and Sunday, opening 0830. Closed January 1, May 1 and December 25.
Admission: Adult, €15.00, Reduced €9.00. First Sunday of each month, October thru March, admission is free.
Getting There: Circumvesuviana train from Naples and Sorrento, Pompei Scavi – Villa Dei Misteri station. Trains run every 30 minutes and costs €2.80. By bus, SITA from Naples and Salerno, CSTP #4 from Salerno, CSTP from Salerno #50 (express highway). By car, motorway A3, Napoli-Salerno (exit Pompeii west).
Tips: Bring water, especially during the summer months as it gets extremely hot. No large backpacks. Be prepared for massive crowds, especially during the summer months. There is a food venue behind the Forum offering options for lunch and many restaurants near the entrance.
How many vacations can a person go on in one year?
As many as you can!
First it was Greece and now it was time for Naples!
I had just returned from an amazing trip to Greece but now it was time to go to work and Rome…you know, make some money to pay for all that delicious moussaka that I had consumed over the course of ten days and top off those pounds with multiple scoops of gelato.
My middle son had not been able to join us on our Greek sojourn due to educational obligations over the summer and was anxious to travel somewhere with me for a few days. I decided that I would have him meet me in New York after my return from Rome and we would decide on a location for a few days. Dakar was our first choice but the flight filled up, leaving us to make another decision. Malaga was a possiblitity, but shortly after I landed from Rome, he informed me that he was “feeling like Italy”.
Oh, okay…if we must!
So, we boarded the flight and I went right back to where I had just returned.
It wasn’t a hard decision! However, since I have been to Rome many times, it was time to see something different…Naples and the Amalfi Coast.
Upon landing, we headed to Rome’s Termini Station and boarded a westbound train to Naples, quickly making a hotel reservation along the way.
Now, unless I’m confusing it with some other Italian city, it did not seem like Naples had ever gotten rave reviews from other travelers that I had spoken to. What I have learned over the years, however, is to try things out for yourself. What is good for the goose, is not always good for the gander!
Arriving on a Sunday, we made our way to our hotel and then set out to explore the area around the water’s edge. There were two impressive castles nearby…Castel Nuovo and Castel del Ovo, but sadly, we found them to be closed.
Castel Nuovo
Castel Nuovo
Castel del Ovo
Enjoying the sunny, hot afternoon, we walked along the water’s edge, watching longingly as the locals enjoyed the sunshine and refreshing waters from the rocks and from their boats.
Admiring the infamous Mount Vesuvius from afar, we passed parks, statues, monuments and the Galleria Umberto, finally arriving in Piazza del Plebiscito (Square of the People), an immense space that houses the royal palace on one side and on the other by the neoclassical facade of the church of San Francesco di Paola.
Galleria Umberto
Walking past the equestrian statues that stand in front of the church, (one depicting Ferdinand I of Bourbon and the other, Charles III of Bourbon), we made our way towards the Palazzo Reale.
Church of San Francesco di Paola
Stopping the admire the eight statues of the most famous Kings of Naples, in the niches on the facade, we made our way to the side entrance hoping the find it open. As luck would have it, it was and we eagerly ducked inside, anxious to escape the oppressive August heat.
Palazzo Reale
Built in 1600, the extensive palace was originally intended as the residence of King Philip III of Spain for his visits to Naples, however, it became the official residence of Viceroy Fernando Ruiz de Castro, earl of Lemos and his wife after 1734. Designed by Domenico Fontana, a prominent Italian architect, the building suffered damage during a fire in 1837 but eventually was restored by Gaetano Genovese.
After walking through the vaulted porticoes, we accessed the main entry with its immense staircase with twin ramps and coffered dome overhead.
Meandering through the richly appointed spaces, we encountered grand halls and chambers, many retaining their original works of art, tapestries, paintings, period furniture and fine porcelain. The highlights of the palace were the Throne Room, the Court Theater, the Royal Apartments and the Oratory (the queen’s personal chapel)…all lending to our understanding of the Italian royal life.
As the afternoon came to a close, despite our excitement of discovering this magnificent city, the effects of a long night of travel were starting to grab hold our reserves. There was so much to see and experience, but if we were not going to slumber through dinnertime, we decided we needed a bit of rest. Tomorrow would be a big day for checking things off of my personal bucket list, but on this night, after our nap, it would be important to seek out Naples’ famous margarita pizza!
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Address: Piazza del Plebiscito, 1, 80132 Napoli NA, Italy
Hours: 0900-2000, Closed Wednesday
Admission: Full €6.00, Reduced €2.00 (citizens of European Union ages 18-25), Online tickets, reservation fee: € 2.00. Free, European and non-European citizens under 18 years. Free first Sunday each month from October through March and on the following dates, March 14, April 1, May 6, June 3, July 11, August 5, September 2, September 19.
Getting There: Bus ANM R1 Via San Carlo stop, Bus ANM R3 Via San Carlo stop, Bus ANM C4 Piazza Treiste e Trento stop
When we had made the decision to visit a couple of the Greek islands, Naxos was definitely not on my radar. If it had not been for the suggestion of a friend, I am not even sure that we would have chosen it over the many others that dot the Aegean Sea.
That being said, we had done and seen most of what we had set out to and enjoyed every bit of it, however, I still felt as though there was more to be discovered.
After our trip to the islet of Palatia to see Apollo’s Temple, my husband and son decided to head to the hotel for a nap before our ferry’s departure that afternoon. Camera in hand, I headed back into the alleys and pathways to see what more I could find in Naxos’ Old Town.
Now when I think back to our time in Naxos, I fondly remember the beautiful mountains and beaches, but what stands out in my mind is the intricacies of the Old Town. I absolutely adored just wandering the narrow passageways and picturesque harbor, discovering a photo around every corner.
As I headed past the port to make my way back up the hill, I noticed a modest, white-washed church standing alone on a small island. Panagia Myrtidiotissais a small chapel built by the fishermen of Tsirigo and Kythira who survived a storm outside of Naxos and is only accessible by boat. As I sat on a bench, wishing I could make my way there, I watched a fisherman work on his vessel, all the while under the protecting eye of this historic church. If you happen to be in Naxos on September 24, make sure to not miss the celebratory feast honoring the church and the mariners of the island.
Knowing that we had missed the Catholic Church’s opening times the day before, I headed up the hill, in that direction, and discovered that I was still a bit early.
Around the corner, however, I noticed a sign directing me to the Casazza Chapel or the Chapel of the Duke of Naxos (also known as the Chapel of Sanoudos). Only having to wait a few minutes for its opening, I entered a beautifully decorated structure. Since I wasn’t sure of the history of the chapel, it was fortunate that the woman who unlocked the doors for us was an American and we could speak freely. She explained that the chapel was built in the 13th or 14th century by Duke Markos Sanoudos and continued to operate as the chapel of all Dukes of Naxos. Completed in 1680, the chapel was dedicated to the Immaculate Conception of the Virgin and later operated as the church of the Jesuits upon their arrival.
Leaving the Chapel of the Duke of Naxos, I passed near a doorway where an older gentleman was sitting. He beckoned to me and invited me in. Not sure what I was being invited to see (and a little nervous), I entered and found a small Orthodox chapel. It was colorful and well appointed even though occupying such a tiny space. Though I never learned what this chapel was, as he did not speak English, I could tell that he was proud of it and as I watched, he continued to invited all passersby to step in and admire the chapel.
Finally, making my way back to the cathedral in the central square, I found it open and entered eagerly. Though the church is relatively small, it is the most important temple of the castle in Naxos.
Exhibiting Byzantine and Western influences, the cathedral was built in the 13th century. There are some small chapels within the five-aisled, three domed structure and the floor is constructed of marble embossed with the coat of arms of the Duke of Naxos. The central aisle boasts an wood altar crafted by Tagiadoroi from Chios from 1774 and a painting of the Panagia Eleousa (Our Lady the Merciful) dating from the 11th or 12th century.
As you examine the outside of the cathedral, make sure to take note of the four coats of arms, including those of Markos Sanoudos, and the striking bell tower constructed in 1963 by John Filippoti.
Other notable religious buildings in the area include the building of the Catholic Archdiocese (13th century) which houses a collection of architectural parts, relics, folklore material, engravings, icons and ecclesiastical utensils, the old Jesuit Commercial School and the old Ursaline Academy for Girls.
Continuing my adventure through the maze of walkways and paths of the Old Town, I meandered slowly examining stairways, door knockers, signs, souvenirs, artwork, cafes, archways and even found an art gallery showcasing the work of my old friend, Yanni Souvatzoglou, an Athens sculpture artist.
As time dissolved quickly, I knew that I would have to return to the hotel so that we could catch our ferry back to Athens, however, there was just enough time to see one last thing…the Orthodox Cathedral.
The Orthodox Cathedral of Naxos was constructed in 1787 on the site of a smaller church and is dedicated to Zoodochos Pigi, the life-giving Virgin Mary. The cathedral was constructed using materials from other buildings including some ancient temples and it is said that the solid granite pillars were brought from the ruins of Delos.
As I entered the cathedral, I breathed in deeply, taking in the extravagance before me. The excitement of capturing it all was short-lived as I was told that photography was not allowed.
A few, well-placed shots were definitely going to be taken and I made my way around the church admiring the intricate wall paintings and the beautiful icons dating back to Turkish times as well as the Gospel Book, which according to custom, was a present from Catherine the Great of Russia.
Finally, it was time for our time in Naxos to come to an end. As we walked through the town toward the ferry terminal, I took one last look around at the city, the boats in the harbor and the fresh catch of the day drying in the sun.
We would definitely miss this Greek Island that we had grown to love during our short stay. Coming here was definitely unexpected but after seeking out many of the things that make it so special, we were extremely happy that we had taken the chance.
Unexpected and now not unexplored, by us anyway!
The grand finale just whetted our appetite for more…we will be back!
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Panagia Myrtidiotissa
Address: Naxos Port, Naxos Town 843 00, Greece
Hours: unknown
Admission: free
Chapel of the Duke of Naxos (also known as the Chapel of Sanoudos or Casazza Chapel )
Cruising into the Naxos harbor, you don’t have to go very far to see a piece of Greek history and architecture.
Greeting visitors to its island, is the Portara, the portal to the temple of Apollo, standing on the islet of Palatia.
The temple’s construction was started around 530 BC, when Lygdamis, the tyrant of Naxos, made the decision to build the highest and most magnificent building in all of Greece devoted to the honor of Apollo, the Greek God and protector of music and poets. After war broke out, work was halted and never completed.
After the temple’s marble was harvested for the Castle of Naxos, the doorway was deemed too heavy to dismantle and relocate, leaving a prodigious example of early Greek architecture to be studied and enjoyed by both visitors and locals for thousands of years to come.
Though we had spied the beautiful doorway as our ferry sailed into port, it wasn’t until our last day in Naxos that we finally made the walk across the causeway that connects the islet to Naxos.
Making our way up the steep path, we were eager to reach the pinnacle, but it was also essential to stop and enjoy the views of the blue Naxian waters, nearby Paros and the Naxian coastline in the distance.
As we made the summit, the remains of the temple spread out all around us with the Portara in the centrum. Staring through this vestibule at the white-washed city beyond it, I wondered if we should have come here during the evenings when we spied large numbers of visitors holding court awaiting the setting sun’s final descent beyond the island of Paros.
Yes, I think we should have.
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As Greek sunshine flooded our Naxos hotel room, we opened our balcony doors and looked out into the quiet streets, breathing in the salty sea air. It’s amazing to be in the Greek Isles!
After a quick breakfast, we headed into town to explore the multitude of passageways that headed uphill and the Venetian castle that keeps watch over the town. Because of the early hour, many of the shops we passed were not open and as we neared the castle, I was surprised to find it was not the typical castle that I had visited in other cities. What I mean is that I expected a ticket booth and an actual entrance into the fortification. This castle can be accessed wholly without a ticket and if you aren’t really paying attention, you might miss the fact that you are actually on the castle’s grounds as there are so many buildings that make up the complex.
That being said, the castle of Chora is a medieval monument, built by Venetian Duke Markos Sanoudos in 1207. It has two entrances, the Great Gate (Trani Porta) and the Wicket (Paraporti). Inside the castle, there are many medieval buildings such as the boarding school of the Ursulines, the School of Commerce founded by the Jesuit monks, the Kapela Kazatza, a chapel of the Duke, the Catholic Cathedral and the Tower of Krispi or Glezos (housing the Byzantine Museum).
It was an amazing adventure to travel amidst the winding passageways, that snake between the homes, shop and restaurants that make up this area. And believe me…it was not easy making progress as there was a picture to be taken at every turn!
Knowing that there was so much more to see on the island, we headed to a car rental shop and secured a car for the day. Getting out of the city was a bit of a challenge, but once we had traveled a few miles, it was fairly easy navigation.
Traveling through the western part of the island, we passed near the salt lakes where hundreds of windsurfers and kitesurfers meet each day to test their skill. In this area, we also were aware that there were many beautiful beaches, however, our mission was to explore the interior of the island before laying down our towels in the sun.
As we drove through the countryside, passing old windmills high on arid peaks, we soon came to the town of Vivlos, where we noticed one of the historical monument signs. Advertising the location of the Old Wash House that the villagers once used before the advent of Maytag, the site was still in relatively good shape and we could only image the villagers meeting here each day to do their laundry.
Continuing on, we soon found ourselves in Kato Sagri. A ruined building next to a church my eye. Pulling over, we walked around the property which is located at the settlement of Kanakari. The complex consisted of a tower house and bakery, both in ruins, with washers and a water well, formerly used for the needs of the buildings. This area was once used as a gathering point for the inhabitants of the village and the small church of the Annunciation, which is still in excellent condition, has served as a church for both Christian Catholics and Orthodox Christians. There is also a small complex of rooms, Kanakari1656, to rent behind the church offering a private getaway for visitors to the area.
Our next destination was the Temple of Demeter (Dimitras), however, it was nearing lunchtime and we decided to grab a bite to eat at the Cafe Bar Mylos, which sported a couple of old windmills on the premises. Spotting a sign across the road directing visitors to the historic site of Church of Agios Nikolaos, we decided to take a walk down the narrow, dusty road to check it out. A longer walk than we anticipated, we tried to enjoy the warm, clear day and the beauty of the countryside.
After turning onto a small path along a stone fence, we arrived at the small church which is located all alone in a field surrounded by the mountainous beauty. Though we were unable to view the interior, I later learned that it is a single-aisle church with an interior covered by successive layers of frescoes. These frescoes depict the birth and baptism of Jesus with the most recent layer dates back to 1270.
After the long walk back to our car, we resumed our trek to the Temple of Demeter, located not far near the village of Sangri.
The marble temple dedicated to Demeter, the ancient goddess of grain, dates back to the 6th century BC in the classical architectural style. Built near fertile areas, it was used for a religious purpose since the late Mycenaean Era.
Around the 3rd century BC, the temple was turn into a Christian religious center and a small chapel, dedicated to Agios Ioannis, was built on the premises, using marble from the ancient temple. Ruined in the 6th century, it was rebuilt in 1977.
After the remains of the temple were discovered in 1949, excavations lasted almost twenty years, beginning in 1976. Restored to its original glory by German archaeologists in the 1990s, the temple is now open to visitors.
Although a bit of a drive from Naxos Town, the temple is quite beautiful in its natural setting and accessible from its entire perimeter. After we had walked around the temple and checked out the chapel, I then took a walk to the rear of the property, past the ticket booth, to the museum which displays many remnants of the ruins that were not used in the reconstruction.
We continued our drive through the towering mountains in the middle of the island admiring the white-washed towns the cascade down the slopes and the countless churches that dot the countryside. After a quick hike down the side of a steep cliff, I even visited a simple little chapel that offered phenomenal views of the rich island.
Finally, after much driving, we decided that it was time to head to the coast for some much needed relaxation. Beginning at Plaka beach, we took a walk to the water to see what was available. Though the water was relatively calm, clear and blue, it did not appear as though there were any chairs for rent in this area. Driving further up the road, we soon found ourselves at Agia Anna. Here, there was plenty of parking and the water appeared similar to what we had just seen at Plaka Beach. A quick chat with a gentleman on the beach, secured us three beach chairs and an umbrella!
Though the water was pretty chilly, it was wonderful to see how clear it was and the beach was not overly crowded. Many restaurants and a small grocery store across the street provided some nourishment and we proceeded to enjoy the remainder of the afternoon enjoying the views and warmth of the Greek sun.
As the day drew to a close, the realization that our time in Naxos was coming to an end and yet, I felt as though there was so much more see on this “great big fat greek island”!
What an unexpected surprise!
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Old Wash House
Address: Βίβλος 843 00, Greece
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free
Site of Kanakari
Address: Κανακάρι, Sangrí 843 00, Greece
Cafe Bar Mylos
Address: Άνω Σαγκρί 843 00, Greece
Hours: unknown
Aghios Nikolaos
Address: Naxos 843 00, Greece
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: interior not open to public
Temple of Demeter
Address: Drimalia 843 02, Greece
Hours: 0900-1600, closed Tuesday
Admission: 4€
Getting There: By car, from Hora, follow the road to Filoti. After about 6 miles turn onto the road signposted for Ano Sangri and the Temple of Demeter. Follow the signs for about 2 more miles to the temple.
With so many Greek islands to choose from, how do you decide which to visit?
Although my family and I knew that we wanted to visit Santorini, we had no clue where to go after that.
A friend, who had recently visited three islands, suggested her itinerary of two nights in each Santorini, Mykonos and Paros. We contemplated these but hearing her stories about the expense of Mykonos, we decided that we wanted something a little more laid back and less costly.
Having spotted another friend’s posts on Facebook, I sent her a message inquiring about her recent vacation on the island of Naxos. Her response was overwhelmingly positive and after sending me a list of restaurants, hotels and things to do, we decided that this would be our destination.
Naxos, the largest of the islands of the Cyclades, lies north of Santorini and was once the seat of the Ducat of the Aegean and has been continuously inhabited since the 4th milennium BC. The most fertile of the Greek Islands, Naxos is a major producer of olive oil, potatoes, spoon sweets, the island’s famous liqueur, Kitron, wine and cheeses. It is famous for its wide variety of cultural events, traditional fairs. The island also offers colorful mountain villages, traditional windmills, breathtaking hiking and biking trails and some of the most beautiful beaches in the Greece.
The ferry from Santorini to Naxos, was a quick hour and ten minutes and before we knew it, we were pulling up to a quaint ferry port backed by a town built into the hillside, topped with an imposing Venetian castle.
It was a quick walk to our hotel and after checking in, we decided to spend the afternoon at Saint George’s Beach, just around the corner.
A popular beach which lays southwest of Naxos Town, Saint George’s Beach is named after the small chapel of Saint George which lies at its northern end. We found the waters to be extremely calm and relatively clear, though darker in nature, and the sands were soft, yet more of a dingy gray than any beach we had ever visited.
Making our way down the beach past the many restaurants that line the area, we finally decided on a place with a large number of vacant umbrellas and sun-beds for rent. Here, we relaxed for the remainder of the day, enjoying cold beers, snacks and great music.
As sunset approached, we headed into town to one of the bars facing the harbor to watch the amazing evening spectacle, so different and yet, so similar to those we had eyed each evening while in Santorini.
Finally, as the day came to a close, with the sun dipping beyond the horizon, we headed to one of the many restaurants rimming the harbor. The aroma of fresh, grilled seafood filled the air as we discussed our plans for the next day, which would start with us venturing through the narrow alleys and stairways up to the castle. We were then going to rent a car and see what lies beyond the main town.
How do you squeeze in a gazillion things into only so many daylight hours?
We had some ideas of places we wanted to visit…the Ancient Site of Thera for sure…maybe the beaches in Perissa or Kamari.
As we drove toward the town of Perissa, we stared in wonder at the large groups of tourists who stood, patiently waiting for the local bus. Where were they all going? Probably other beaches, judging from their tropical attire.
We were heading to where they were heading away from…the village of Perissa.
Perissa, located on the southeastern edge of Santorini, is a coastal village where the ancient city of Elefsina was believed to have been located. At the base of Mesa Vouno mountain, the small village is known for its beautiful blue waters, black lava sand and wide array of restaurants and accommodations.
As we drove into the village, the first thing I noticed was the Tlimios Stavros with its blue dome and impressive bell tower. Once we had found a place to park, we walked over to the church to take a look. Most of the churches we had visited had been open, however, we found this one locked and we were forced to admire is architectural beautify from outside. The village was quite charming, filled with lots of souvenirs and we made a mental note to return in the evening to enjoy one of the many restaurants that lined the beach area.
As I gazed up at Mesa Vouno, movement caught my eye. People were walking up a steep path towards the summit! I knew the site of Ancient Thera was located on the mountain, but I had not realized that you could climb from Perissa. High on the mountainous slopes, I also spotted the white-washed chapel of Panagia Katefiani. Could I make it all the way?
After talking with a local in one of the shops, I learned that we could drive back to Pyrgos and then head toward Kamari. There, we would find the road that leads to Ancient Thera, complete with parking and we would not have to climb the entire way up the mountain. Pressed for time, this would be our option.
A short while later, we were making the harrowing drive from Kamari to Ancient Thera…2.3 kilometers with 22 hairpin switchbacks. Taking our cue from other drivers, we proceeded carefully and stopped at each switchback to blow the horn at descending traffic. A little worse for the wear, we finally arrived at our destination.
After purchasing our tickets, we began our climb to the summit of Ancient Thera, the 11th century BC Dorian settlement that exhibits remains from Hellenistic, Roman and Byzantine periods as well as amazing views of Kamari on one side and Perissa, Perivolos, Fira and Oia from the other. And on clear days, you can also see some of the neighboring islands!
The existence of Ancient Thera is one of the most important pieces of Santorini’s history. After excavations began in 1986, it was revealed that a settlement stretching from northwest to southwest, was split by a central street with many side streets branching off of each side.
As we walked through the immense site, we encountered many excavated ruins including the Agora (the main square of the city) the Basilike Stoa (the center of public life), the theater (which contained seating for 1,500 people), the sacred area (with an enclosed grotto dedicated to Hermes and Heracles) and a gymnasium with Roman baths.
A cul-de-sac, at the highest point of the city, had an impressive building which was the headquarters of the fleet commander and a courtyard next door which was thought to be the gymnasium of the garrison. There were also the remains of dwelling which belonged to officers of the fleet.
Higher up on the mountain plateau was where the city’s inhabitants lived in houses centralized around a small courtyard where a cistern was located. Some houses had two levels and others also had basements.
There are many remains of artwork exhibited throughout the site including mosaics and carvings that can still be spied throughout and although the entire city is captivating, what transfixed our attention was the views. Staring out at the neighboring islands and the city’s of Kamari and Perissa below reminded us that we needed to continue our exploration of the island.
Making our way back the way we had come, I looked longingly at the footpath heading down to Perissa. A gentleman leading horses down the trail reminded me that because we had not made the climb from Perissa, caused me to miss the small chapel I had spied from the village. There was so much more that we had missed on the island, it would have to wait until a future visit!
The drive down the mountain was just as unnerving as on the way up, but finally we arrived in Kamari. Though we had planned to spend the afternoon on Kamari or Perissa’s beaches, we decided that although we had driven through Fira on a couple of occasions, we had never had the opportunity to explore the capital of Santorini.
After securing a parking spot, we headed into the narrow, crowded streets and alleys, passing through Theotokopoulos Square, which overflows with cafes and thousands of visitors, Gold Street and its countless jewelry stores and the commercial center of Fabrika.
We finally arrived at the Orthodox Metropolitan Cathedral, one of the most photographed churches on the island, due to its primary location in the city. Built in 1827, the large church offers amazing views of the caldera and nearby islands. Destroyed in the great earthquake of 1956, it was rebuilt with elaborate arches, a stunning bell tower, beautiful frescoes, a mosaic flooring, amazing central chandelier and offers religious paintings created by Santorinian painter Christoforos Asimis.
Finally, we headed to the teleferico. I had once seen a video on arriving visitors to the island taking the donkeys up the steep, winding path. I must admit, when we arrived two days before, this is what I had anticipated and was quite disappointed that there were no donkeys…only the rental car representative.
My husband, son and I paid for our cable car transport to the bottom of the steep cliffs to the old port below. A very picturesque setting, we walked along the harbor, watching passengers arrive and depart from waiting cruise ships and tours. There were quaint boats moored in the slip and many shops and restaurants as well as the old market.
As we prepared to take the cable car back to the top, I decided that even though my husband and son had no interest in riding the donkey to the top, I needed to do it!
Taking my place in the queue, I paid the attendant, climbed on and off I went up the steep pathway. It was fun to travel the traditional way that goods and people once did to Fira, although sometimes my donkey had a mind of its own. Or…maybe it was just giving me time to enjoy the views! Still, it was much more fun than climbing up 587 steps to the top!
Our final stop of the day was to one of the many bars that look out over the caldera. Here, we enjoyed one of the most spectacular views that I have ever seen!
Although we only saw about a quarter of what this amazing island had to offer, I was suddenly caught up in the moment.
What was right there before my eyes was what Santorini is all about!
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Hours: November 1 until March 31, 0800-1500, Closed Mondays. April 1 until October 31, 0830-1600, Closed Tuesday.
Admission: Full, €4, Reduced, €2. Special ticket package, Full: €14, Reduced: €7. The special package 4 day ticket is for Archaelogical Sites and Museum in Thera including Ancient Thera, Akrotiri, Archaeological Museum, Museum of Prehistoric Thera, Collection of Icons and Ecclesiastical Artifacts at Pyrgos. Free admission on March 6, April 18, May 18, last weekend of September, National Holidays, October 28, every first Sunday from November 1 to March 31.
Hours: April 1-April 30, 0700-2100, every 20 minutes. May 1-May 30 and September 1-October 31, 0700-2200, every 20 minutes. June 1-August 31, 0700-2300, every 20 minutes. November 1-November 30 and March 1-March 31, 0730-1030 and 1430-1800, every 30 minutes. December 1-February 28, 0700-0900 and 1500-1600, every 30 minutes.
Heading further south on the well-maintained roads of Santorini, we continued on our journey to see what the scenic island would offer up to us.
After gazing out over Caldera Beach, we headed to the prehistoric town of Akrotiri. An ancient Minoan Bronze Age settlement, it was destroyed by a severe earthquakes and eventually a volcanic eruption at the last quarter of the 17th century B.C. Much like Pompeii in Italy, volcanic materials covered the town, protecting them for the town’s resurgence in later years. Since I had never been to Pompeii (something high on my bucket list), I was excited to see this well-preserved archaeological site and understand what I might see when I finally made my way to the Italian ruins.
The settlement, however, is protected by a bioclimatic roof and very different from pictures I had seen of Pompeii. After paying our entrance fee, we made our way around well-marked site, navigable by walkways suspended above the archaeological remains.
There were many important buildings that were mostly intact, including multi-storied houses, a few containing well-preserved frescoes, pottery and precious stone and bronze objects. Most of the important pieces that have been recovered, however, are now on display in the Museum of Prehistoric Thera.
After our visit was complete, we had planned to have lunch nearby and make our way to the adjacent Red Beach. So many cars and pedestrians were entering the parking area, however, we decided to alter our plans. Driving out past the modern-day village of Akrotiri, with its picturesque alleys, blue domed churches and traditional houses, we found a lovely restaurant, The Good Heart, located along the highway, to have a quick bite. Greeted warmly, we ate our lunch and bought some delicious snacks at their adjacent store.
Once our lunch and shopping was complete, we continued down to the end of the highway, stopping a couple of times to admire the continually beckoning caldera.
Our destination was the Akrotiri Lighthouse and we soon arrived, luckily securing a parking spot in the small lot. The well-known lighthouse is considered one of the best and most beautiful lighthouses in the Greek Isles.
A whitewashed structure, the lighthouse stands high on the cliff above the sea. Manufactured by a French company is 1892, it was one of the first lighthouses in the country and stands on a popular spot for tourists to enjoy the views and for locals to spend their evenings enjoying the cool breezes and spectacular sunsets.
Finally, heading back from the way we had just come, we decided that we had conquered most of the the southern sites of Santorini, but now needed to enjoy a bit of beach time. Heading down a small, rocky road toward the southern coast, we soon arrived at the Akro Beach Club.
Taking the steep stairs down the side of the cliff, we found ourselves at one of the three picturesque beaches that line the coast. Red, White and Black Beaches occupy methodical positions that can be reached by car in two of the instances (Red and Black) and by water taxi. Though we later learned that the water taxi would have been a cool alternative for us to see all three beaches, we were anxious to grab some beach chairs, beer and soak up some sun.
The beach was black, as its name suggests and a bit rocky. Thankfully, we had brought water shoes, making it much less difficult to make it down to the water’s edge. The water, however, was a bit cold for me!
The ambiance was amazing and we stayed much longer than we had anticipated, enjoying the sound of the waves, passing boats and warm weather. The beach was uncrowded and passengers from the water taxi came and went. More importantly, the beer was cold and refreshing!
As the day drew to a close, we finally made our way up the steep road…
To another beautiful sunset.
For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.com
Hours: November 1-March 31, 0800-1500, Tuesday through Sunday. Closed Monday. April 15-October 31, 0800-2000, daily.
Admission: Full, €12, Reduded, €6. Special package 4-day ticket is for Archaelogical Sites and Museum in Thera Ancient Thera, Akrotiri, Archaeological Museum, Museum of Prehistoric Thera, Collection of Icons and Ecclesiastical Artefacts at Pyrgos. Free admission days, March 6, April 18, May 18, last weekend of September annually (European Heritage Days), National Holidays, October 28, every first Sunday from November 1 to March 31.
Getting There: By rental car, parking is available in adjacent lot, €4 or in Red Beach parking lot, €2. KTEL Santorini bus service to Akrotiri from Fira. Check out bus schedules at https://www.ktel-santorini.gr/index.php/en/.
Beach chair/umbrella pairs, $30 first row, $20 second row, $15 last row. Menu item prices vary. Food/drink service located on beach and in restaurant. Locked safety boxes available at beach chairs.
Akrotiri Water Taxi
Journeys to all three beaches, 10€ from Akrotiri, near Red Beach.
Despite the obvious jetlag, I was up early on our first full day in Santorini.
Taking a look at my Google Maps on my iPhone, I was initially very excited…
Care to guess what I found?
If you’ve followed my blog for a while, you will realize how much I loved to visit churches and there were a LOT of churches on Santorini. I carefully marked them all with the intent of persuading my husband and son that they absolutely needed to be visited, but also marked other points of interest along the way that we would be driving.
Ekklisia Agia Marina was the first stop on our planned venture to the south of Santorini. As my husband and son waited in the car, I jumped out and made my way around the small church. Entering the small, walled courtyard, I ogled the stone facade and the trio of bells, eager to summon the congregants. Trying the door, I surprisingly found it unlocked and took a quick look inside. Similar to some of the larger Orthodox churches I had visited in Athens, I noticed how clean and orderly this small-scale temple appeared and I admired the colorful paintings.
Making my way outside, I encountered the caretaker, who waved a friendly “hello” as I briefly wondered if I maybe should not have entered without permission. He didn’t seem bothered by my visit, so I joined my husband and son and we drove down the narrow dirt road to admire the magnificent caldera view available here.
Walking down the small trail toward the edge of the cliff, we stood in awe of the perspective before us. The Santorini caldera was formed 3600 BP during the Minoan eruption with the island of Santorini, Therasia and Aspronisi on the periphery and Kameni islands at the center. Truly one of the largest natural wonders of the world, we felt extremely small gazing out on the azur Aegean waters and watching the ferries depart for and arrive from other Greek islands.
Continuing on our journey, we arrived at Megalochori, a traditional village which can be dated back to the 17th century. After parking in one of the nearby lots, we made our way through the maze of whitewashed, narrow lanes and walkways, many covered and lined by colorful bougainvillea, that offer up what makes this pristine town so special…historical mansions, traditional houses, inner courtyards, tavernas, restaurants, small shops, churches and a quaint village square.
Once the home of merchants and wealthy land barons that exported the wine that is still produced there, the village exudes an air of mystery with its high walls and solid door entrances which were built for protection against the pirates that sometimes invaded the area.
In the center of the village, located at the top of a stairway, we stumbled upon the Hellenic Cultural Center which offers Greek classes and had many displays of items made in and used in Greek culture.
A little further, we were able to visit one of the cave homes that are common to area and that were often lived in by the less-wealthy citizens during the time frame.
Passing under the village belltowers, we strolled through the square and it was evident that this was the heart and soul of the village. Here, many locals were gathered to share information and play games of cards or tavli (backgammon). As we took in the menus of the many restaurants located, we made some mental notes for our dinner later that evening.
After our departure from Megalachori, we headed a little further down the road and two things caught my eye…a church and a windmill! The church, Μεταμόρφωση Χριστού (I think it is the Church of the Transfiguration of Christ), was not open to visitors, however, there was another lovely view of the caldera and a paved trail, beautifully lined with natural growth and flowers, leading to the windmill.
Having been to the Netherlands on many occasions and lain my eyes upon the anticipated windmills all over the country, I was surprised to not only see one in Oia and in this location, but more scattered throughout the island. This one, however, I learned is special…named El Viento, it is a century-old stone-built windmill that can be rented nightly! So…if you are a Bachelor or Bachelorette fan (then you will understand this reference)…maybe you will run into Pilot Pete here on his honeymoon one day!
Taking a glance at my watch, I realized that more time had passed than we realized! Our first day discovering Santorini had begun quite nicely, but there was so much more if we continued to head south!
For sure, more churches and more windmills!
To be continued…
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