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Adventures in New Mexico Part 2-Chaco Canyon

Chaco Culture National Historic Site bears a unique title, one of the 20 least visited national parks in the US!

So why were we up early, making a three hour drive through unmaintained roads to hike through its boundaries?

For one, Bandolier National Park was closed due to the wildfires raging in the northern part of the state and Taos Pueblo had still not reopened since Covid restrictions were lifted. After spying pictures of this park and noticing its remoteness, I decided that it would be a perfect photo opportunity, make for an interesting blog post and a way to learn about the ancient Chacoan culture in this UNESCO World Heritage Site.

This national park gives insight to the engineering abilities of the ancestral Pueblo people of the southwest. The structures located in the park were built between 850 and 1250 in a remote canyon cut by the Chaco Wash. The structures were constructed of quarried sandstone bricks and timber hauled from great distances and during this time frame, the area was a major center of culture for the Puebloans. Fifteen major complexes make up the area and what remain are the largest building ever built in North America until the 19th century.

Our original plans had us spending this day in the Albuquerque area and driving to Chaco Canyon the next day, to hike and sight see before continuing on to Santa Fe. As I awakened early, however, I burrowed under my hotel sheets and pondered this agenda. We wanted to make it to Santa Fe in time to visit the new attraction Meow Wolf. There is nothing I hate more than not having enough time at an attraction and having to leave before I’m ready in order to meet a timeline and I was afraid that I wasn’t allowing enough time in Chaco Canyon. And…if we were not to make it to Meow Wolf, we would miss our opportunity since it was closed on the next day. After doing a bit of reading, I realized that there was much to see and do in Chaco Canyon that a couple of hours was not adequate.

A change of plans was in order.

This journey was beckoning our adventurous sides. It did not matter how long or hard! If the Chacoans could do it without modern conveniences, we could too.

Jumping into the shower, I informed my son of our new plan. Thankfully, he’s a flexible travel companion, quick to get ready, and we were soon on the Interstate 25 heading north.

The further we traveled, through desert and mountainous regions, cell service became more spotty and obsolete at times. Before all was lost, we made a call to the National Park for some specific directions, since we were a little unsure of the roads in this area. This proved to be a smart move! The ranger gave us detailed directions and even the good advice to fill up our car and purchase snacks at the nearby gas station before leaving the paved roads.

While I had anticipated rough roads, I wasn’t quite prepared for what we encountered. Twenty-one miles on a paved highway would take approximately 15-20 minutes, however, dirt, loose gravel, potholes and uneven surfaces kept us at about 20 miles per hour…you can do the math!

Finally, after the grueling, steering-wheel-clutching, teeth-gritting-when-we-hit-the-potholes drive, we spied the National Park entrance sign ahead and a paved road leading into the park. Success!

*Entering the park, views of Fajada Butte*

First stopping into the Visitor’s Center, we purchased a America the Beautiful Annual Parks Pass. As we would be visiting other parks within the state, it would definitely pay for itself. Quizzing the ranger for helpful advice, we then headed out to the parking lot to fill our water bottles at the cisterns and began our explorations along the Una Vida trail leading from the lot.

Una Vida, only a mile long, gave us our first look at the type of structures and petroglyphs that we would be encountering throughout the park.

Refilling our water again, we headed out on the nine-mile loop road to the next stop, the Hungo Pavi trail. More structures dotted the landscape, but it was on the trail that we would find the Chacoan Great House (occupation AD 1000-1250s). Paved and dirt pathways ran throughout the site and we were able to examine these dwellings from extremely close proximity. This monumental public building is a good example of what Chacoan sites look like without excavations, covered in windblown sand and native vegetation, and consists of over 150 rooms, a great kiva (space used by Puebloans for rites and political meetings) and an enclosed plaza.

Our next stop was the Chetro Ketl trail, home to the second largest Chacoan great house, covering more than three acres and containing a great kiva and elevated kivas. The structures consists of two and three stories and an elevated plaza that stands twelve feet above the canyon floor. Along the way we also followed the Petroglyph trail which spanned the bottom of the cliff face between Chetro Ketl and Pueblo Bonito. Here, we spotted many petroglyphs etched onto the walls, some low and some so high it made you wonder how they reached these soaring elevations.

The Pueblo Bonito trail is named after the beautiful structure located within its confines. This large complex, where we headed next, was unearthed between 1920 and 1927 by seven expeditions of the National Geographic Society and the Smithsonian Institution. According to the sign on site, over one hundred thousand tons of rubble and wind blown sand were removed to accurately reconstruct parts of the destroyed walls and match the ancient masonry. Located approximately 4.5 miles from the Visitor Center, it is the most important site in the canyon and worth the 0.6 mile roundtrip hike. Constructed from AD 850 to AD 1150 it was the center of all of the Chacoan universe.

A much larger compound than we had encountered thus far, we walked around its perimeter, comparing its size to the massive boulders that had fallen from the mesa beyond. Climbing these boulders, we had a bird’s eye view of the interior of Pueblo Bonito.

*View of Pueblo Bonito Ruins from top of boulders*

Along this trail, we encountered a sign directing us to the Wetherill Cemetery. While from this point, it was only a quarter mile hike, we learned later, that there was a parking area up the road which would have provided a much shorter walk. Only one grave was located here, that of Richard Wetherill, an amateur archaeologist who discovered, researched and excavated sites associated with the ancient Pueblo people. Fascinated by the ruins and artifacts of the Southwestern United States, Wetherill was credited with the excavation of Pueblo Bonito. He was murdered during a mysterious circumstances by a Navajo in Chaco Canyon in 1910.

Returning to Pueblo Bonito, the trail brought us around to the front of the complex and through parts of its interior. Judging by the small doorways, these ancient people must have been of a smaller stature and we were mesmerized for the still intact wood beams still in place. The most interesting part of the entire complex was an interior room with its wooden walls and ceiling still unscathed.

*Pueblo Bonito Ruins* *with original wood walls*

Skipping Casa Rinconada, we next headed to Pueblo del Arroyo, about a mile up the road. The 1/4 mile roundtrip trail brought us to another Chacoan Great House (occupation 1075-1250s). Planned and constructed in two stages, the architecture found here lacks a great kiva and earthen mounds, however, typifies the pueblo architecture found throughout the area.

It was now getting to be late afternoon and there was still so much more to see. Realizing that we had made the correct decision to devote this entire day to Chaco Canyon, I quickly calculated that although making it a long day, we could conceivably depart from the park between 6:00 and 6:30pm, have dinner along the way and still make back to our hotel at a semi-decent hour.

There was still a trail that we wanted to follow, but we were concerned about making it back in time to follow our new itinerary. This trail passed near Kin Kletso, another great Chacoan House (occupied from AD 1100 to 1150s). There were some interesting petroglyphs here, but we hesitated for a moment because to take this trail up to the top of the mesa, we needed to register. After talking with another couple of hikers, who assured us that we had enough time and that we could register at the top of the trailhead, by filling out a form, leaving half in the box and half on the dashboard of our car, we set off.

Heading on the Pueblo Alto trail, we hoped to reach the Pueblo Bonito Overlook. The trail, a total of 2.6 miles, reaches the overlook at .75 mile. If we could reach the overlook, we would then recalculate our time. But first, the beginning of the trail had me rethinking if I was capable of making it to our destination. The trail wound up the side of the cliff, giving us great views of Kin Kletso, but I was a little hesitant of looking anywhere but in front of me. Next, we discovered that we had to make our way through a narrow path, between the cliff walls, straight up. Not wanting to let my son down, I persevered and even enjoyed myself, discovering the beautiful flowers, fossils embedded in the stone, shrimp burrows and other landmarks along the way. From the top of this mesa, the view of the canyon was stunning.

*Pueblo Alto Trail, overlook to Kin Kletso (middle left and bottom right), trail through slot canyon (top right)*

*To the end of the Pueblo Alto trail and views of Pueblo Bonito*

*View of Pueblo Bonito from Pueblo Alto trail*

When we reached the Pueblo Bonito overlook, I had to admit that it was worth the intimidating climb! With Pueblo Bonito spread out below us, it was much easier to see from above what we could not fathom while walking through the complex!

Checking our watches, we discovered that we had actually made pretty good time, so we decided to follow the Chacoan Road for a little ways. There were two additional structures that we were able to spot from afar, but sadly, if we were going to make our departure window, we had to turn back. Along the cliff’s edge we retreated, back through the narrow canyon, gingerly stepping from one rocky stair to another, past Kin Kletso and back to the cool confines of our car.

*Back thru the slot canyon and to the main road*

Another quick trip to the Visitor’s Center to grab more water and we were on our way back to Albuquerque. While the trip on the unpaved roads seemed shorter as we were now familiar with its length, it was still harrowing, praying we didn’t pop a tire or break an axle. As we approached paved roads and civilization, the late summer sun was illuminating the nearby mountains, giving us quite the show of fiery reds and oranges!

As we arrived back to Albuquerque close to 9:00 p.m., during the midst of a lunar eclipse, I realized that while we were extremely tired from the six hours we had spent in the car, the sun and all of the hiking in the park, we had made the right decision.

Chaco Culture National Historic Site absolutely warrants enough time to see everything that if offers. Maybe it is one of the least visited, but we can say we did!

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Chaco Culture National Historic Park

https://www.nps.gov/chcu/index.htm
Address: Mailing address, PO Box 220, Nageezi , NM 87037
Hours: 0700-sunset, daily
Admission: Vehicle entrance fee, $25.00 USD for 7 days (includes all persons traveling in one private, non-commercial vehicle (car/truck/van). Motorcycle entrance fee, $20.00 USD for 7 days. Individual entrance fee, $15.00 for 7 days.
- Getting There: https://www.nps.gov/chcu/planyourvisit/trafficandtraveltips.htm Calling ahead for travel conditions is advisable.

America the Beautiful Park Pass

https://usparkpass.com/?msclkid=93b48013494c171633b4e37a00f1093a

Adventures in New Mexico Part 1-Breaking Bad

Sometimes the best trips are the ones that you didn’t even know you were going on or needed.

Last May, after spotting a hole in my work schedule and realizing that it coincided with my son’s college break, a plan took root in my head.

Mother/son trip!

Deciding to meet in Atlanta on a Saturday morning, we would figure out where to go from there. Of course, we had some possibilities and preliminary plans, but in the end, flying standby would dictate where we would end up.

The winner?

Albuquerque, New Mexico!

A couple of years ago during Covid, I had mapped out a driving plan to some of New Mexico’s most interesting destinations and attractions. When we realized how many restrictions and quarantines were in place at that time, we headed south to the beach instead. I had kept this itinerary, however, in my back pocket and it was time to whip it out!

Landing in Albuquerque in the late afternoon, we decided that with the amount of daylight remaining, we would try to visit one thing in the city. I had thoughts of Petroglyph National Monument or Sandia Peak Tramway, but my son had another idea.

A fan of the television series, Breaking Bad, which I had never seen, he was hoping to see the house that was featured as the lead character’s home. Following directions to the home in the northeast part of the city, we entered a residential area and then following three other cars down Piermont Drive, we slowed behind them as he pointed it out to me. 3828 Piermont Drive, NE.

Since he wanted to take a photo of the house, we circled back around and parked on the street which was perpendicular to Piermont and right in front of the house. Little did I realize that this was the parking location where many a stake out took place during the show and he explained that the fence that now encircled the home was not present during filming. Soon after we parked, a woman exited the house and came into the front yard. She began holding up a phone, filming us and yelling for us to leave, even though other cars were driving by slowly and taking pictures of the house.

Realizing that this was our cue to depart, we pulled away as my son explained that he had read that the new owners of the house had no idea that their house was famous when they bought it and hated the attention that it garnered on a daily basis.

I felt terrible! Never having seen the show, it didn’t mean anything to me and as a homeowner, I would absolutely hate having people drive by taking pictures of my home, as this woman obviously did!

After finishing the series a couple of months ago, I understand that fans would be interested in where critical outdoor scenes were filmed, but after hearing stories from my son about people throwing pizzas on the roof, as was done in one of the episodes, I could sympathize with why the owners added a gate to give them a bit of privacy.

Since we had had a long day, we decided to have dinner (not pizza!) and make a plan for the next day…one that didn’t involve stake outs and invasion of other people’s privacy!!!

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Breaking Bad House

Address: 3828 Piermont Drive, NE, Albuquerque, NM 87111
Hours: 24 hours
Admission: not available

Metro de Chateau

At one end of the Paris metro yellow line is La Defense, the other, Chateau de Vincennes.

The location of my work hotel is somewhere in between and I’ve visited La Defense’s Christmas market a few years ago, but never gave much thought to the other end of the line. La Defense is a business district, I just naturally assumed Chateau de Vincennes metro stop was named after the area, not an actual Château. In actuality, I was partly correct.

The area of Vincennes was formed in the late 18th century, when two village communities located north of the chateau joined together…the hamlet of La Pissotte, which was built towards the end of the 13th century and Basse-Coura subdivision created under Charles V originally used to house royal servants. In 1829, the territory was enlarged at the expense of Fontenay-sous-Bois and Montreuil. Vincennes now covers an area of some 192 hectares and has almost 50,000 inhabitants. It is one of the most densely populated towns in France.

But, there really is a chateau in Vincennes!

Setting out shortly after my arrival into Paris, I was excited at the prospect of seeing this chateau in Vincennes that this metro stop was named for.

Exiting the metro, I discovered massive walls and an imposing gate a short distance away on the Avenue de Paris. Complete with a draw bridge spanning a moat surrounding the premises, I was reminded of its long history and its need for defense during tumultuous times.

Chateau de Vincennes entrance

Built between 1361 and 1369, this preferred residence of the French Kings was known for its keep and for its beautiful chapel, Sainte-Chapelle de Vincennes, although prior monarchs used the area during the century before construction commenced.

Passing through the gates, I glanced up at the bell tower and clock, the very first public clock in France (although now a reproduction with its original kept in Saint Chappelle). A little further, I walked into a large compound with buildings lining the walkway to both my left and right, and here, I discovered the ticket office. Although I had purchased my ticket prior to my arrival, I stopped inside to ensure that everything was in order and to confirm what my entry fee covered. Handed a map, I was pleasantly surprised that I was able to visit not only the Keep and the Chapel, but also the Queen’s Pavilion.

*Chateau de Vincennes inner courtyards and buildings*

The Keep, or “donjon” seemed to be the perfect place to start my explorations. This fortified central tower, the tallest in Europe at the time, was built during the 14th century. Initiated by King Philippe VI in 1340, later his son Jean II of France and subsequently, his son, the future Charles V, the fortress with high walls, towers and a keep were completed by 1370. Charles V moved into the Keep with some construction still underway. As I moved through the massive structure with its 52 meter tower in the center, I read through the signage describing each of the areas’ usage.

The ground floor of the Keep has wells and the remains of a large fireplace, probably originally used by royal servants. It was largely rebuilt when the building was used as a prison.

*View of Sainte-Chapelle de Vincennes and King and Queen Pavilions from the Keep*

The first floor contained the meeting hall of the Council of the King, and was also used when needed for bedchambers of the Queen and others close to the King. The walls were originally covered with oak panels, some of which are still in place.

The second floor was occupied by the bedchamber of the King, and has decorations added by Charles V of France when he rebuilt it from 1367–38. The walls were originally covered with oak panels, and the vaulted ceiling was decorated with sculpted keystones and consoles and painted flour-de-Lys and the coat-of-arms of the King, against a blue background, still visible. A small oratory is set into the north wall, though its wood paneling has disappeared.

The third floor has the same plan as the second, but lacks the ornate decoration of the royal floor. It was probably used by important guests of the King.

The fourth, fifth and sixth floors, which lack ornament, were probably used by domestic servants or soldiers. They were also used to store munitions for the weapons placed at the windows of the fourth floor and on the terraces of tower of latrines and the main body of the keep. The sixth floor has no windows and a ceiling only two meters high, and a single entrance. Beginning in 1752, the upper floors were used primarily as prison cells. The bars in the windows and doors date from that period. The extensive and elaborate graffiti still found on the walls on the upper floors also dates from the 17th and 18th century.

After Charles death, it remained a place of refuge for future kings, eventually converting to a prison and finally, a military installment. In fact, the most interesting portions of the keep were one of the areas used for the restraint of prisoners. In this area, I spotted many signatures etched onto the walls and the remains of murals painted on the walls by these prisoners, the most beautiful being those completed by Monseigneur Boulogne, confessor of Napoleon I, imprisoned on his orders. This room was also used to later keep the Comte de Mirabeau, who spent three years imprisoned at Vincennes where he wrote about the abuses of the royal warrant. Other famous prisoners included Denis Diderot (1713-1784), François-Vincent Raspail (1794-1878), the Marquis de Sade (1777-1784).

My tour of the Keep complete, I headed across to Sainte-Chapelle de Vincennes. Having been to the beautiful chapel of Sainte Chapelle in Paris’ Ile de Cite, I was curious to see how they would compare.

Conceived by Charles V as his dream to add an exceptional religious monument to the fortress and a place to house the relics of the Passion of Christ, he did not live to see its culmination. With construction beginning in 1379, it still remained unfinished in the 16th century. King Francois I, a frequent resident, resolved to bring it to its completion in 1520, to celebrate the birth of his son and heir. Upon his death, Henry II of France resumed construction, completing the vaults and overseeing the addition of woodwork and stained glass with its completion in 1552.

While both are built in the Gothic style and organized in the same manner, this one seemed much more narrow and more brightly lit. Devoid of seating or ornamentation aside from the windows and the altar, it was a clear view of the sole internal space, especially from the rear choir loft, in contrast to Sainte Chapelle on the Ile de la Cite having two levels, upper for the King and his family and the lower for ordinary members of the court.

The sacristy, a separate two story structure, is attached to the chapel at the oratory of the King on the north side of the chapel and a stunning funerary monument of the Duke of Enghien can be found inside as well.

*Funerary monument of the Duke of Enghien*

Exiting the Chapel I headed through the arches into the courtyard of the Pavilions of the King and Queen. A beautiful, open and grassy space each building, the King’s Pavilion on the southwest corner and the Queen’s opposite.

*View of the King and Queen Pavilion Courtyard*

The King’s Pavilion was constructed between 1610 and 1617 by Louis XVIII and modified over the years to enlarge the structure. Consisting of three stories with five rooms for the King, his apartment looked our west over the gardens. Today, parts of the King’s Pavilion ceiling can be found in the Egyptian collection of the Louvre Museum.

The Queen’s Pavilion was construction many years later, from 1658 to 1660 and followed the same basic design as the King’s structure, however, instead of a garden view, it overlooked the courtyard. As the Germans stored explosives in the two pavilions and these caught fire after an explosion, the building fell in to disrepair.

*King’s Pavilion, upper middle. Queen’s Pavilion, middle*

On this visit, I was able to visit the King’s Pavilion, which houses an exhibition of the Fortresses of the Emperor depicting Napoleon and his military engineers. Personal possessions, artillery, portraits, models and other objects were found on the second floor and although the signage was in French, it was nice to see part of the interior of the building.

As the day was winding to a close and the temperature started to drop, I decided that my exploration of Chateau de Vincennes was at its end. Making my way back to the entrance gate, I headed back to the metro with the same name…

Chateau de Vincennes.

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Chateau de Vincennes

https://www.chateau-de-vincennes.fr/
Address: Avenue de Paris, Vincennes, FR 94300
Hours: 1000-1700, daily
Admission: 9,5€

The Golden House

It is well documented that most Roman emperors enjoyed flaunting their wealth, however, there was one that took his lavish lifestyle in the Eternal City to another realm.

Nero.

Deciding that he would build a palace to outdo all palaces, the Domus Aurea, he set forth with these plans in 64AD, after a major fire had swept through the city, destroying much of the area of the Oppian Hill. With this part of the city leveled, making room for his palatial plans, this led to speculation that Nero himself had started the fire.

Not to be deterred by rumors, he set forth with the construction of a complex, located near the Forum. The massive compound sat on 80 hectares, contained 150 rooms, gardens, a lake, fields, vineyards, pasture and forests with domesticated and wild animals. The rooms were lavishly decorated with gold, gems, precious marble and mother of Pearl, unlike any other built during the era. Records indicate that the house shone like gold with the light reflecting on these lavish decorations…hence the nickname, Golden House. And in the case that anyone’s memory lapsed and forgot who they were visiting, a 35-meter-high statue of Nero was situated at the entrance!

Some time ago, I had read about the Domus Aurea. Not open to the public during this timeframe, I had marked it as a point of interest on my Google map and filed it away hopefully for a future visit. Last spring, while perusing the internet, I came across an article advertising tours of the Domus Aurea. Tickets were limited and groups were small, so I excitedly booked a time slot in the afternoon.

Upon my arrival, what I first notice was that I was entering the gates of not only the Domus Aurea, but a park. A park filled with people sitting on benches, children skateboarding on the paved walkways and lovers relaxing on the grass in the shade of the massive trees. Deciding that it would be nice to walk through after my tour was complete, I continued to follow my directions, soon discovering a gate marked Domus Aurea, only to discover that it was not my intended destination.

*Parco del Colle Oppio and entrance to Domus Aurea grounds*

Virtual reality tours, which show the true nature of how Nero lived, are conducted on the weekends, when restoration work is not being conducted and embark from this location, however, being a weekday, I was directed to another building a little further.

After checking in, more people arrived and we were ushered into the building’s atrium with suggestions that we don outerwear for the cooler temperatures inside.

*Main entrance and walkway to Domus Aurea underground*

Not sure what exactly I was there to experience on my tour, I followed the guide down a long walkway, descending perhaps fifty feet or more to where the remains of Nero’s complex now lies, having been plundered, buried, and built upon by his successors.

Arriving in an impressively excavated, dimly lit, octagonal room, I marveled at the spotlighted statue occupying the center of the room and the astrological symbols being projected onto the vaulted ceiling. Indeed, it was much cooler, and I zipped up my jacket as I made my way around the rotunda, examining the adjacent rooms.

Our guide explained that this was the first time that these rooms have been made available as part of a temporary exhibition. This exhibition conjures up the Domus Aurea’s rediscovery by torchlight, in the 15th century, by those, including the painter Raphael, inspiring his future works.

I admired the best-preserved frescoes of the Domus Aurea in the Room of Achilles on Skyros which portrays a scene inspired by the story of Troy. Other rooms contained projections of the grotesques (a style of decorative painting or sculpture consisting of the interweaving of human and animal forms with flowers and foliage), architectural depictions of the palace designs and statues, including a reproduction of the Laocoon.

*Left photo, reproduction of the Laocoon*

We were also allowed into the dilapidated (due to weather and dampness) Room of Hector and Andromache, the first room to be discovered in the complex. The room was long and extremely tall; however, some remnants of its original artistry can still be detected.

Having examined all aspects of this beautifully restored piece of the palace, I made my way back up the inclined walkway and out into the warm, late afternoon sunshine.

Winding around the back of the building I had just exited, I followed the pathways, through the Parco del Colle Oppio, searching for the Baths of Trajan, which had been built on top of Nero’s palace, about 40 to 50 years later.

After Nero’s suicide in 68 A.D., his successors, Ortho and possibly Titus, added to the completion of the Domus Aurea, but later successors sought to erase Nero’s memory. Parts of the palace and grounds were filled with earth and built over, the Baths of Titus, the Flavian Amphitheater, the Temple of Venus and Roma and the Baths of Trajan were all built on the site.

The Baths of Trajan, built by architect, Apollo of Damascus, were created for the emperor Trajan and as a recreational and social center for both male and female Roman citizens in the early 5th century. There were the first “great baths” in Rome and at the time, the largest existing thermal building in the world. Not in use for very long, it was deserted and left for ruin.

The remains of these ruins are scattered through the northwest side of the Parco del Colle Oppio…amidst area’s playgrounds. Children were running throughout the area with parents watching, exercising or visiting with others. It was interesting to see these citizens using these hallowed grounds as a recreational site, which it once was in a different capacity, all the while knowing what lies beneath them and around them…the Domus Aurea.

*Baths of Trajan and middle right, Cisterna delle Sette Sale (across from rear entrance)*

*Rear entrance along Via delle Terme di Traiano*

*Front entrance, right across from Colosseum*

What an interesting way to grow up among some of Rome’s most historical sites!

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Domus Aurea

https://www.coopculture.it/en/poi/domus-aurea/
Address: Via della Domus Aurea, 00184 Roma RM, Italy
Hours: Thursday, 1600-1900, Friday, Saturday and Sunday, 0900-1700, Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, closed.
Admission: 23 euro

Baths of Trajan

Address: Parco del Colle Oppio, Via della Domus Aurea, 1 00184 Roma RM, Italy
Hours: Dawn to dusk, daily.
Admission: free

In Chains

Some of Rome’s major most beloved sights are what visitors aspire to lay their eyes on while visiting the Holy City…the Colosseum, St. Peter’s Basilica, the Vatican and the Trevi Fountain, just to name a few.

Bursting with history, the city offers many museums, churches and ancient archeological sites which detail the city’s bygone times. Amongst these stand-out attractions, however, there are many hidden gems. While visitors certainly have their pick of other attractions on the way to each of these places, it may be hard to discern which are worthy of a peek inside and I make it my mission to find these hidden gems…many of them, churches.

Last spring, while plotting my route to the Domus Aureus, I spotted a church a few blocks from the Coliseum. I had planned to leave with plenty of time to grab a bite to eat and take some photos of the Coliseum, so I decided to add this detour and mark off another church from my list (yes, I am obsessed with seeing all churches in Rome!).

As I exited the Cavour metro station and marched up Oppian Hill, I became a bit confused. Although I was operating on little sleep, I could not figure out if this was my intended destination. The façade of the the supposed church was extremely plain and situated next to a university building. In fact, spotting students chatting and reading on the adjoined steps, I thought it to be an extension of the university edifice.

Fully expecting to interrupt a classroom full of scholars, engaged in a discussion on world politics, I marched up to the conventional brown door, set inside a narrow portico, and pushed it open.

No stern professor glared back at me for the abrupt interruption…

This was San Pietro in Vincoli, or St. Peter in Chains, the church that houses the restraints that bound St. Peter when he was imprisoned in Jerusalem.

Formerly known as Basilica Eudoxiana, it was built on older foundations during a span of eight years, starting in 432. Consecrated in 439, it was to become the place that would house the shackles that kept St. Peter imprisoned.

The chains from Saint Peter’s Jerusalem confinement were passed from Iuvenalis, Bishop of Jerusalem, to Aelia Eudocia (consort of Valentinian II) and then given to her daughter, Empress Eudoxia (wife of Emperor Valentinian III). They were then gifted, by the Empress, to Pope Leo I. Legend states that on August 1, when Pope Leo I compared them to the chains of St. Peter’s final imprisonment in the Rome’s Mamertime Prison, the two chains fused together prompting the pope to initiate the construction of a place where this miracle could be viewed by the faithful.

The church contains a main nave and two aisles and normally, I would first work my way through each aisle to see the side chapels. This time, I headed straight for the main altar. There was something special here that I needed to see.

Underneath the main altar, accessed by an open stairway, I found these important relics, housed in a reliquary in a lighted case and flanked by statues. Judging by todays standards and chains that I have seen used in various applications, these appear to be thin and quite flimsy. That being said, even with these restraining me, I probably could have not escaped imprisonment and I was moved knowing that these iron manacles once touched the flesh of Saint Peter.

My inquisitiveness satisfied, I moved on, focusing my attention on the other important aspect of San Pietro in Vincoli. While the basilica is more commonly known for the chains of Saint Peter, it is also very well known for being the home of Michelangelo’s statue of Moses which guards the tomb of Pope Julius II. Located on the right side of the church, the imposing funeral monument was originally intended to be part of a massive forty-seven foot statue. Instead, it became the centerpiece of the Pope’s tomb. There is much to analyze in the massive sculptural piece, however, take a hard look at Moses…he is depicted with horns, connoting “the radiance of the Lord”, a symbol that was common in early sacred art and easier to sculpt than rays of light.

*Michelangelo’s statue of Moses and the tomb of Pope Julius II*

*Moses reproductions for closer inspection*

Naturally, I proceeded to move through the two side aisles and the two side altars, inspecting the chapels and beautiful works displayed in each as well as glancing above at the 18th century coffered ceiling. This great work of art displays the Miracle of the Chains, by Giovanni Battista Parodi, depicting the healing of Saint Balbina by Pope Alexander as he touches the neck goiter with the chains that once bound Saint Peter.

*San Pietro in Vincoli coffered ceiling*

Artistry decorating the basilica include a painting depicting the Liberation of St. Peter (Domenichino,1604), Deposition (Cristoforo Roncalli) on the altarpiece on the first chapel on the left, the tomb of Cardinal Nicholas of Kues and its relief, Cardinal Nicholas before St. Peter. Other notable tombs include the one of Florentine sculptor, Antonio del Pollaiuolo (left side of entrance) who added the figures of Romulus and Remus to the sculpture of the Capitoline Wolf, the tomb of Cardinal Cinzio Aldobrandini and tombs once believe to be the seven Maccabean martyrs depicted in 2 Maccabees 7-14.

The third altar in the left aisle holds a beautiful mosaic of Saint Sebastian from the seventh century which depicts Saint Sebastian’s posthumous role in ceasing the plague in northern Italy in 680. Pay close attention to the frescoes as they illustrate skeletons and other images not often shown in Catholic churches.

As I exited the facility and walked around the peripheral, I was once again struck at its simplistic nature. Disguised by the activities of La Sapienza University next door, housed in the former associated convent, one might never know that they are walking past one of the most illustrious churches in the city.

Yes, on this day, I found one of the city’s hidden gems.

San Pietro in Vincoli

https://www.sanpietroinvincoli.com/
Address: Piazza di San Pietro in Vincoli 4/a, Roma, Italy 00184
Hours: Daily, 0800-1230 and 1500-1900
Admission: free
Getting There: By Metro, Cavour, Line B. By Bus, number 75, 84 and 117

The Star of Milan

Coffee shops in Italy are plentiful and it has to be pretty hard to compete.

So how does Starbucks open up a location in Milan and attract people who are willing to wait in line to enter and drink their special blends when there are so many authentic coffee shops throughout the city?

I have never been a coffee drinker…give me a Diet Pepsi in the morning and I am all good! But when I had the opportunity to stop by the Starbucks Reserve Roastery while on one of my layovers, I said yes, as I was dying to see why people stand in line to enter the beautiful…and historic…Poste building in Piazza Cordusio.

The Starbucks Reserve Roastery opened on September 6, 2018 and was created to pay homage to the Italian espresso culture that inspired Howard Schultz to create the Starbucks Experience, 35 years ago. Not just your ordinary coffee shop, the Reserve Roastery is a total experience which captivates your imagination and attention!

The first thing I noticed was the size. All 25,00 square feet of it!

But it wasn’t just big…it was beautiful…and colorful…and elegant…and fascinating…

Taking our place in line at the main bar, we perused the menu and made our order decisions. Serving everything from espresso, to nitro draft to cold brew to tea to hot chocolate…all is made to order and so worth the wait. Having ordered a chilly cookies and cream Frappuccino concoction, I sat at the bar with my friends, near the Scolari coffee roaster, the heart of the roastery, and savored my drink.

Cool music was playing giving it more of a club feel, but every now and then, a clattering noise from above caught our attention. Copper tubing, snaking its way across the ceiling, transported coffee beans to their holding cannisters at the main bar. How cool it that? A coffee bean highway!

And that’s not all. Nooks and crannies were filled with sculpture and murals lined the stairway leading down to the beautifully equipped bathroom, constructed of locally sourced marble and up, to the ArriviamoTM Bar where the vibe is definitely more about drinking, however, not coffee. If specialty cocktails are your thing, this is the place to be…the 30 foot long marble bar is the working space where mixologists create their passions.

The Princi Bakery occupies the left side of the space and houses a wood-fired oven, the tool for making proper bread and the nearby gift shop offers Starbucks merchandise as well as rare and exotic high-quality Arabica coffees sourced from around the world that you can take home and make for yourself.

.Many people choose to sit in the outdoor space, perfect for people watching, but I think staying indoors gives more insight into the art and science of coffee making in Italy!

I am still not a coffee drinker, but I would definitely visit Milan’s Starbucks Reserve Roastery again!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Starbucks Reserve Roastery

https://www.starbucksreserve.com/en-us/locations/milano
Address: Piazza Cordusio 3, Palazzo delle Poste, Milano, IT 20123
Hours: Monday thru Friday, 0700-2300, Saturday and Sunday, 0700-2200
Admission: free

Beginning in Bogota

Mardi Gras is a huge celebration, especially in Louisiana, but amidst the beads and floats, some people forget that Mardi Gras is the precursor to the Lenten season for the Catholic religion. Partying and feasting are the norm during the Mardi Gras season, but all that comes to an end on Ash Wednesday, the day after Fat Tuesday, when Catholics begin their abstinence for six weeks.

Having attended Catholic school, I remember being off of school for the Mardi Gras holiday, but the thing I remembered most was attending mass on Ash Wednesday with my school so that we could receive ashes on our foreheads. For the Lenten season, it was as important to us as Good Friday and Easter Sunday.

Recently, I found myself in Bogota. Since I had not been to Colombia in many years, I was excited to revisit some of the places that I had in the past and some new ones. At least one of those places was a church and since it happened to be Ash Wednesday, I was excited to see if any of the traditions in Bogota Catholicism were different than I expected.

Early in the morning, two of my friends and I decided to take an Uber to one of Bogota’s most famous natural landmarks, Monserrate. Rising more than 10,000 feet above the city center, the mountain boasts a 17th century church and shrine devoted to El Señor Caído (“The Fallen Lord”).

I recalled visiting many years ago, but I didn’t remember much except for the photo of a beautiful flower that I took there (that now hangs on my living room wall) and that we had taken a teleférico (cable car) to the top of the mountain.

Arriving at the teleférico station, we discovered that the teleférico was not in operation, only the funicular. So be it! It was either that or a long hike (almost two miles) with a steep grade! Purchasing our tickets, we took our place in line and awaiting our turn to board the railway car to the mountaintop. As we were packed like sardines, it made it easy to make friends and I practiced my Spanish while we enjoyed the scenery during the climb.

At the end of the line, we exited the funicular and made our way along the pathway admiring the beautiful statues of the Stations of the Cross as well as the stunning views of the city below, in between the low clouds and light rain showers. On the adjacent mountain, we spied the 45-foot tall statue of the Virgin of Guadalupe and its adjacent sanctuary, which appeared to be miniscule from our vantage point. Finally, we were face to face with the Basilica Sanctuary of Monserrate which houses the statue of the fallen Lord of Monserrate, representing Jesus falling for the third time on his way to Calvary.

Pausing for a moment to take a photo with the Bogota sign in front of the basilica, we then entered, realizing that Ash Wednesday mass was taking place. Walking quietly through the church, I made my way through its interior, investigating the chapels and its decorative features. At the rear of the building, in an enclosed room behind the altar, I discovered the Lord of Monserrate. It is said that this miraculous effigy of Christ has hair that grows and that when they try to lower it to the city, its weight increases, becoming an impossible task to achieve. It was difficult to get a good look as the viewing windows were small and many people were lined up, hoping to get a glimpse of the famous icon, but I did notice that hair on the statue appeared to be realistic.

Dating back almost 500 years, the basilica is built on the mountain that was once named Cerro de Las Nieves for its frequent cloudiness. A monastery dedicated to the Virgen of Montserrat was founded in this location and a path was created for pilgrims to climb the hill. The basilica houses a chapel dedicated to this Black Madonna and while I studied it, I thought it to look familiar. After some contemplation, I realized that it was because the origins of the Virgen Morena de Monserrate are of Catalonia, Spain and I had visited the monastery of Montserrat outside of Barcelona many years ago. In fact, it was so familiar to me because I had purchased a tiny replica of this Virgin which sits on my desk in my home office!

After my investigation of the basilica was complete, I wandered around to the rear of the church to where a large craft market is located. Small stalls offered up all sorts of handmade objects, clothing items and religious souvenirs. Hoping to add to my nativity collection, I figured that this would be the best place to find a unique piece. Surprisingly, however, it took quite a bit of asking around to finally find one…and then a lot more searching to find one that met my requirements. Happy at last and package in hand, we decided to catch the funicular so that we could head back down the mountain and catch a ride to the downtown area.

The ride to Plaza de Bolivar was only about ten minutes and we were dropped off right in front of the Catedral Primada de Colombia, better known as the Metropolitan Cathedral Basilica of Bogota and Primate of Colombia. A lively square, standing before the basilica, it is filled with both locals and tourists, but its main occupants are pigeons! Lots and lots of pigeons!

The square is also surrounded by many historical buildings, including the Palacio de Justicia (Palace of Justice), Palacio Lievano (Palace Lievano), Museo Santa Clara (Santa Clara Museum), Museo Colonial (Colonial Museum) and the National Capitol among others. While we wished that we had had the time to visit everything in this area, it was the cathedral that we were most interested in, however.

Towering over Bolivar Square, the cathedral is the largest church in all of South America. The neoclassical structure has a striking façade, however, its interior, we soon found, was rather lackluster as are many of Columbia’s sanctuaries. We did take the time, however, to inspect the many paintings, sculpture and statues from the 17th and 18th century as well as the side chapels and other architectural features of the church.

*Metropolitan Cathedral Basilica of Bogota and Primate of Colombia*

*Metropolitan Cathedral Basilica of Bogota and Primate of Colombia entrance*

Noting that mass was not being conducted, we saw a line spanning the length of the cathedral down the central aisle. The three of us, all practicing Catholics, realized that the cathedral’s parishioners were receiving ashes, so we took our places and slowly made our way to the front of the line. What a special opportunity to receive ashes in the Bogota Cathedral on this day!

Lunchtime had already passed, so deciding to seek out a local restaurant, we headed down the pedestrian friendly Carrera 7. Vendors were plenty and it was fun to check out the some of the unique merchandise and watch the street performers, while seeking out Colombian cuisine. Since it was Ash Wednesday, we had to be mindful of our meat intake, but empanadas were plentiful and it was easy to order those filled with queso and dulce de leche churros for dessert!

Our meal complete, we realized that the afternoon was almost halfway finished. We still had a bit of a drive back to our hotel and there was that pesky thing called work that we had to do, but there was one more church at the end of Carrera 7, that I wanted to visit…the Church of San Francisco.

Dating back to the 16th century, this ornate church is the oldest preserved church in Bogota. Built between 1586 and 1611, it originally was part of a complex combined with a monastery that covered two city blocks and had three two-story cloisters. Its exterior once covered in white, was stripped in recent years leaving only the white bell tower to exhibit its original appearance. Today, the only parts of the original temple that survive are the church façade, the tower and the chancel.

Somewhat intimidating when we approached, with its unassuming façade, graffiti spray painting on the front wall and trash littering the walkway and within the entryway, my colleagues looked to me as though I was a bit mad to bring them here in a city where crime is rampant. Stepping gingerly into the darkened interior, we allowed our eyes to adjust as we gained our bearings. Met with a beautiful red screen separating the inside from the gritty periphery, we peered around up the central aisle toward the high altar. A beautiful wooden roof soared above our heads and a simplistic, double nave design spread around us. The confessionals were designed in an ornate gold and red composition as were many other features, however, the chapels were decorated chiefly in gold and the Stations of the Cross were of a wooden design.

The overall presentation was extremely dark, both in brightness and composition, and I am sad to say, maybe because of its location in the downtown area, it gave me a very eerie feeling. We did not notice many other visitors and no services for Ash Wednesday were being held. I think when I suggested to bid our adieu, my companions were quite relieved to move along.

Our day was coming to a close and other considerations were coming into play, including traffic and getting some rest before flying through the night. Scratching my forehead while on the ride home, I realized that my ashes were still prominently displayed. Removing my compact from my handbag and taking a glance, I noted the dark mark semi-hidden under my bangs.

It was the beginning of Lent. Beginning in Bogota.

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Monserrate

https://monserrate.co/
Address: Carrera 2 Este No. 21-48 Paseo Bolívar, Bogota, Colombia
Admissions and Hours: Accessing Monserrate: By foot, trail open every day, except Tuesdays, 0500-1300 to go up and from 0500-1600 to go down. Free of charge. By funicular, Monday to Friday, 0630-1145 and Saturdays, 0630-1630. 23,500 COP (about $5.40 USD) round trip. On Sundays and holidays, 0530-1800. 14,000 COP (about $3.20 USD) round trip. Discounts for Senior citizens (over 62 years). By teleférico, Monday to Saturday, 1200-2200, 23,500 COP (about $5.40 USD) roundtrip. On Sundays, 0530-1800. 14,000 COP (about $3.20 USD) roundtrip. Pets allowed for an additional fee. Basilica Admission: free

Catedral Primada de Colombia

Address: Carrera 7 10 80, Bogotá, CO 111711
Hours: 0900-1700, daily (unverified)
Admission: free

Iglesia de San Francisco (Church of San Francisco)

Avenida Jimenez de Quesada #7-10, Bogota, Colombia
Hours: 0900-1700 (unverified)
Admission: free

The Glass

You know the saying…”the glass is half full”?

My husband is that kind of guy…always sees the bright spot!

While my husband could have been upset that I only allotted a condensed visit to Murano during our day, he was elated that he would have any time there at all. My birthday, my decision…he had agreed to this plan! So…glass half full!

Revisiting Murano was not high on my list. Twice before, I had called upon the island, most recently, the week before. Both times, I had been part of a tour and was taken immediately to one of the glass blowing demonstrations in one of the workshops on the Grand Canal of Murano. With limited time, because of the presentation, my impression of Murano was not optimum. Not having time to do much exploration, the only thing I could associate with it was a dark, cramped (and hot) workspace, filled with other tourists, holding up their iPhone (me included), trying to document a master glassblower manipulate molten glass into a small pony. Then, being ushered into the crowded giftshop so that I could buy a replica of that breakable steed.

Arriving from Burano, we disembarked onto the Murano Faro dock and had a wonderful view of the tall, elegant lighthouse that was built in 1934. Walking down Calle Bressagio, we passed the Oratorio Ex ospizio Briati, a chapel which was the former Carmelite convent and followed the street until we reached the canal along Fondamenta Manin, where we browsed the many souvenir shops that line the waterway.

A building across the canal caught my eye and I quickly ushered my husband across the bridge….the Church of Saint Peter Martyr. This ancient church was originally built in 1348 with a Dominican convent and was dedicated to Saint John the Baptist. After a fire in 1474, it was rebuilt to its current state and was one of the two main parish churches on the island of Murano that I planned to visit.

Church of Saint Peter Martyr

The church contains some important works by Tintoretto (Baptism of Christ), Giovanni Bellini (Assumption with Saints and Barbarigo Altarpiece), Giovane (San Nicolo, Santa Lucia, San Carlo Borromeo), Paolo Veronese (Saint Jerome in the Desert), Giovanni Agostino da Lodi (Barcaioli Altarpiece) and Guisseppe Porta (Deposition from the Cross). In the right wing is the Ballarin Chapel, built in 1506 and named after the famous glassmaker from Murano. It is a humble church, but warm and welcoming.

Continuing our explorations, strangely enough, we found ourselves at the Guarnieri Glass Factory. It wasn’t one of the factories that I had visited previously, but it also wasn’t something that I had really desired to experience again. As we approached the arched entrance, decorated with beautiful glass roses, a gentleman greeted us warmly. The factory was about to close, but he agreed to ask the master craftsman if he would do one more demonstration for us. Although this man seemed reluctant, no doubt ready to retreat to his air conditioned home for a nice dinner, he agreed after another couple approached.

Sweating profusely in the intense heat, he shaped a beautiful stallion, much more elegant that the ones I had witnessed being sculpted at the other demonstrations. For his final act, a glass bubble was blown and popped, signaling his departure!

I must admit, while it was not something I had wished to do again, it was quite nice to be one of only two couples in attendance and I later learned that this is one of the best places to seek out this experience. The outstanding thing about it, however, was that before leaving, I ended up with a beautiful necklace from the gift shop! A splendid birthday gift!

Murano boasted an impressive landscape along its hidden streets and central canals…stunning Italian architecture, cobblestone streets and occasional handblown glass exhibits randomly placed in courtyards throughout. While we never did make it to the other church that I so desired to see, Duomo Basilica dei Santi Maria e Donato, we enjoyed the impressive scenery that we encountered.

It was getting late in the afternoon at this point and the sun’s slanted rays led to an ambiance that I had never experienced in Murano having visited earlier in the day. Entranced with the deepening of the colors along the canals, I actually hated to leave. Indubitably a much different Murano, one I would choose to return to again.

As we boarded the water taxi for our return to Venice, we found the ride to be much more enjoyable with the heat of the day diminishing. In fact, a cool breeze made our ride quite refreshing especially since we were able to snag a spot on the outside deck. Cruising between the islands, the sunlight glittered on the waters as we passed Cimitero di San Michele, the 10th century cemetery christened after the resident Church of Saint Michael. Entering the canals of Venice, we passed elegant bridges spanning its width, and spied architecture, palpable in late afternoon sunshine, while tourists strolled the banks searching for their dinner destination.

These tourists would be us later, celebrating my birthday and the glass would definitely be full…of my favorite Italian beer!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Church of Saint Peter Martyr

Address: Fondamenta dei Vetrai, 30141 Venezia VE, Italy
Hours: Unknown
Admission: free

Guarnieri Vetreria Artistica

Address: Fondamenta Serenella, 11, 30141 Venezia VE, Italy
Hours: Monday to Friday, 0900-1800, Saturday, 0900-1645, Sunday, Closed
Admission: free

An Island of Color

Crowded vaporettos and August heat…it’s a wonder why anyone makes the trip to the Venetian islands during the summer months!

But with risk comes reward…

Having done the quickie tour of the Venetian islands the week before with some members of my crew, I had observed the uniqueness of Burano, Murano and Torcello and desired to share their beauty with my husband. On that particular trip, we had stopped for a short time on each island, but this time, I wanted to concentrate on only one. Burano, the island of color! With only having had such a short time in Burano, I was looking forward to seeking out every nook and cranny of the vibrant place with no eye on the clock.

Sweating profusely while in almost a full run to make the 9:40a.m. ferry at the Fondamente Nove vaporetto stop, I fully expected a particular question from my husband. It didn’t take long after we arrived…”So why aren’t we going to Murano? I have always wanted to go there.” Since I had visited Murano twice before, I really didn’t want to waste time being escorted into one of the glass blowing demonstrations that I had experienced on my past trips and besides, it was my birthday! I thought that I was going to get to do what I wanted to do!

Putting myself in his shoes, I realized that he doesn’t get to travel like I do and it might be a long time before he gets to come back. I decided to change the plan and told him that we would make the stop in Murano on the way back to the Venice later in the day, even if it was just for a short while.

Soon, we were on our way, squeezed into a row of seats, but thankfully near a window so that we could at least get some air while beads of sweat formed on our foreheads and rivers poured down our backs. The forty minute ride couldn’t have ended quickly enough and breathing a sigh of relief, we set foot on the dock and followed the crowds into the middle of the small village.

The brightly painted houses and shops were awaiting our arrival and we posed on every little bridge for a photo and walked down every small alleyway and canal. My husband was impressed with the intensity of the hues of all of the buildings, but mostly, he was checking out the boats parked in the canals!

After the obligatory photo of my husband pretending to hold up the leaning Il Campanile Storto, we headed in search of Bepi’s House. Not sure what we would find, we knew we had stumbled upon it when we spotted some Instagrammers trying to get the perfect shot.

While multiple hues abound in Burano, the house of Bepi Suà is the most colorful building on the island, decorated with geometric patterns such as circles, squares, and triangles in hues of yellow, orange, red, blue and green. Bepi, born Giuseppe Toselli, was a lover of painting and movies. After his position at the Cinema Favin was eliminated, he began to sell sweets in Galuppi Square and became known as Bepi of Candies. He soon began hosting an outdoor cinema at his house with a white sheet hung on the outside wall for the neighborhood children. Those same children remember him as a the strange man who was always painting new, colorful geometric shapes on those same walls each afternoon. The exterior was everchanging until his death in 2001.

We continued our explorations (with a quick stop for lunch and gelato, of course!) and ended up back at the Il Campanile Storto and its accompanying Church of Saint Martin Vescovo. Entering the church through its Renaissance styled doorway, it was quite interesting to note that the church really had no façade…only a doorway. Established in 1000, it was finally consecrated in 1645 by the Bishop of Torcello. Restored several times over the years, the main aisle and the pipe organ were destroyed by a fire in 1913, a tremendous loss as it was created by Callidio in 1767 and was considered to be one of the greatest masterpieces of the church. Other artistic pieces to seek out today, however, are the statue of Madonna in the atrium and statues of Sant’ Albano and San Martino, on the sides of the tabernacle, by Girolamo Bonazzo and a bronze statue of the “Risen Christ” over the tabernacle. Today, the church is a modest one mostly known for its 18th century leaning bell tower.

The Chapel of Santa Barbara was a short distance away…like next door. While quite small, it serves its purpose as a place of prayer and has its own small bell tower.

Feeling as though we had finally seen the entirety of Burano, we headed to the dock and took our place in the long line while waiting for the vaporetto.

While relief from the hot sun would have been wonderful, it was now time to crowd onto the vaporetto to fulfill my husband’s Murano dream…the least I could do!

Thank goodness it was a short ride!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Il Campanile Storto

Piazza Baldassarre Galuppi, 20, 30142 Venezia, VE, Italy
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free

Bepi’s House

Address: Corte del Pistor, 275, 30142 Venezia, VE, Italy
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free

Church of Saint Martin Vescovo

Address: Piazza Baldassarre Galuppi, 20, Venice, VE Italy, 30142
Hours: 0800-1200 and 1500-1900, daily
Admission: free

Chapel of Santa Barbara

Address: Piazza Baldassarre Galuppi, 22, Venice, VE Italy, 30142
Hours: 0800-1200 and 1500-1900, daily
Admission: free

The Island Church

On an island, just across the Grand Canal, stands a bright white Palladian church, Chiesa di San Giorgio Maggiore.

Many times after visiting St. Mark’s square, I have stood on the banks of the waterway and stared at the church…it seemed untouchable.

Really not understanding the water taxi system, which seemed to be the way to reach this island, I was never comfortable trying to figure out how to get there, possibly making a mistake and ending up somewhere I didn’t plan. I always thought…next time. And next time never came…until I was visiting Venice with my husband one weekend.

Since two brains are better than one, together we deciphered the water taxi schedule and jumped on the one which we thought would get us there. It was a spontaneous decision and yes, it worked out…we made it across to the island!

As we pulled up to the dock, it suddenly dawned on me that we didn’t even know if the church was open to visitors…but at least we had made it there and figured that we could at least walk to the end of the island to see the lighthouse if it wasn’t.

First, we stood in the large plaza before the church and took in the basilica’s beautiful marble façade and the views of the city across the Venetian waters. Standing on the island, which was once called Insula Memmia (after the Memmo family who owned it) the church that once occupied the island, was consecrated to St. George. The San Giorgio Monastery was established in 982, when the entire island was donated for the monastery and it was built next to the church. In 1576, construction of the current church was begun.

Luckily, we found the church open for tourists and we began our explorations of the 16th century basilica.

Constructed by architect Andrea Palladio, the church’s spacious interior contains the usual things you might find in a basilica…chapels, tombs, altar, dome…but it is the artwork that takes center stage…both old and new.

Within the church’s three floors, paintings by Tintoretto were displayed including The Last Supper, The Entombment of Christ and The Fall of Manna as well as a significant masterpiece by Sebastiano Ricci, Madonna Enthroned With Saints. There were some modern pieces by Swiss artist Not Vital, Tintoretto (2020-2 silver boxes) found on the Main Altar, Pope Francesco (2020-2 silver boxes) found in the Main Chorus and the most impressive piece, House to Watch the Sunset (2021), found in the Transept, which is a large pyramid of stairs. This piece was created for the occasion of the 17th International Architecture Biennale.

*House to Watch the Sunset by Not Vital*

*Pope Francesco Silver Boxes by Not Vital in Main Chorus (far bottom right)*

Following the signs to the campanile, we paid our entrance fee and made our way to the top of the tower via the rapid ascent elevator. One of the finest examples of Venetian Gothic architecture, the bell tower was built in the 14th century by Pietro Lombardo and completed by Pietro Bellotto. From this vantage point, we had some of the most breathtaking views of the Venetian lagoon, the city and some of the nearby islands. We were also able to look down upon the cloisters of the monastery as well as gaze upward at the tower’s carillons. While the campanile of San Giorgio Maggiore is a little shorter than the Campanile di San Marco, one reason to make the trip to the island and make your way to the top, is that you don’t have to navigate its height via stairs, as you would at San Marco. I also think that the views from this perspective are more beautiful!

Exiting the church, we walked toward the harbor for an up close and personal look at the Lighthouse of San Giorgio Maggiore. While it is not one of the largest lighthouses I have ever seen, it is quite impressive with its clean masonry.

Finally, we headed back to the vaporetto dock and waited for the next boat. As it was the middle of August, it was extremely hot. The small enclosure, which offers protection from the cold and the rain, is not the best place to wait while the hot summer sun is bearing down. Dashing out back to the plaza in front of the church, we took more pictures and enjoyed the cool breeze coming off of the water until Vaporetto 2 was in sight.

Back to San Marco plaza, we headed, now feeling secure about our boat ride and how to navigate the Vaporetto system. This bit of confidence would serve us well for the rest of our trip as we navigated the city.
Another check on the Venetian bucket list…I no longer have to only wistfully stare at the beautiful church across the canal…I visited it!

There are many churches in the Venetian Islands, but this one is worth the trip!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Chiesa di San Giorgio Maggio

http://www.abbaziasangiorgio.it/
Address: Isola di S. Giorgio Maggiore, 30133, Venezia VE, Italy
Hours: April to October, 0900-1800, daily. November to March, 0830 to 1800.
Admission: Church entrance, free. €6 for tower access
Getting There: Vaporetto (water taxi) 2 or N. You will need two one-way tickets or a 24 hour pass to visit the island. If your visit is about an hour, your 75 minute ticket may still be valid for the return.