Tag: history

A Tale of Two Chinatowns

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Just how many Chinatowns are there in the world?

Having visited a large number of these districts on our globe, I have to say that when I searched for this information, I was surprised by how many exist.

Following the defeat by Britain in the first Opium War, in the mid-1840’s, a series of natural catastrophes, famine, uprisings and rebellions ensued in China. Thousands of Chinese left their homes in the search for opportunity in near and far away lands and many arrived on the west coast of the United States when news of the gold rush gave them hope for a better life.

Historically, the Chinatowns located in the United States have been located in larger cities such as New York City, Seattle, Boston, Philadelphia, Chicago and Los Angeles with one of the most famous in San Francisco. There are, however, many Chinatowns in other countries as well, including Argentina, Cuba, Mexico, Peru, Canada, Mauritius, South Africa, India, Indonesia, Iran, Iraq, Japan, Malaysia, Myanmar, Pakistan, Philippines, Singapore, South Korea, Thailand, Vietnam, Belgium, France, Italy, Netherlands, United Kingdom, Australia.

I have visited quite a few on the list and they are all quite different.

Recently, I had the pleasure of accompanying my son to San Francisco on his Spring Break trip. It had been many years since my last visit to the Golden Gate City, but the first thing I wanted to show him was Chinatown. As we approached the Dragon Gate on Grant Avenue, I was quite excited to see what changes the enclave had gone through over the years.

The Dragon Gate was given to the city by the Republic of China and is inscribed with a message from the President of the Republic of China. Though I have seen bigger and more elaborate gates, I love this one for its simplicity and park-like feel. As we walked through the gate onto into the streets filled with antiques, souvenir shops, bakeries, restaurants and artwork, the familiarity returned and I remembered my first trip to San Francisco, before I began to travel the world, when I felt as though I had really entered another country.

Making our way up Grant Street, criss-crossed above with red Chinese paper lanterns, I marveled at the architecture, street art and signage. There are many notable buildings within Chinatown, including the Sing Chong Building (the most photographed piece of architecture in the area), the Bank of Canton (the Old Telephone Exchange), the Tien Hau Temple (the oldest Taoist Temple, founded in 1852), Old St. Mary’s Church (oldest cathedral in California and built by Chinese laborers) and many other culturally inspired structures, including ones on the notorious Waverly Place, an alleyway that has been used in many films and holds the first U.S. Post Office established in San Francisco.

Sing Chong Building
Bank of Canton
Tien Hau Temple
Old St. Mary’s Church
Waverly Place

The street art is some of the finest I have seen in the world and it’s advisable to duck into small streets and alleyways…you never know what you may find!

One thing that I regret missing out on, however, was a visit to the Golden Gate Fortune Cookie Factory. Having always been fascinated by the sweet cookies that are consumed after a Chinese meal, I thought it would be an interesting place to see how the cookies are made and to bring home a few to my family. Hard to find in a small alley, we passed it by, finally realizing when it was too late and time was slipping by quickly. Nevertheless, I will save this for another trip!

As the dinner hour approached, we later returned to Chinatown for an authentic meal, mesmerized by the swaying lanterns now lit for the darkened skies above the now quiet streets.

Visiting San Francisco’s Chinatown was such an enlightening experience, that when I visited Milan a couple of weeks later, I decided that I should check out the Italian version.

The day was just as brilliant as when I visited San Francisco and I looked forward to seeing how the two city’s Chinatowns compared.

Turning onto the pedestrian friendly, Via Paolo Sarpi, my interest was piqued and I glanced around hoping to spot a Chinese gate or inspiring Chinese architecture. Instead, what I found was what looked like a typical Italian street halfheartedly attempting to disguise itself as a Chinatown. Sure, there were the occasional signs which lend to the Asian perception and the intermittent paper lantern fluttering in the wind, but the over feeling is well…Italian…disappointing. Don’t get me wrong, I love Italian architecture, I was was just hoping for something much different. Try as I might, I just didn’t get the same warm and fuzzy feeling that I got when I visited San Francisco’s Chinatown.

The Chinese that reside here date back to the 1920’s and came from the Zhejiang region near Shanghai to work in the silk industry. Their descendants remained here, set up shop and offer a wide range of services and products, including 150 boutiques selling Oriental products, traditional tea shops and the large Kathay, the biggest store for ethnic food in Italy. It was here that I finally felt as though I was experiencing the true cultural phenomenon. As I browsed the shelves of authentic products, I found something that I had loved when visiting Hong Kong…sesame peanut brittle. Purchasing a small box, I secured a place on a bench surrounded by a floral shop and ate it slowly watching the activity on the street.

Finally, I walked around some of the side streets, hoping to find what I thought the neighborhood was lacking. Still confused, I thought, maybe if I had dinner here at one of the many restaurants, I could be swayed in my disappointing assessment.

Glancing around at the choices…I decided…

“Nah, I’d rather go have a pizza”.

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Chinatown San Francisco

  • http://www.sanfranciscochinatown.com/
  • Getting There: From Fisherman’s Wharf area, take the cable car to Chinatown. There are two locations for cable cars near Fisherman’s Wharf. The Powell-Hyde line (PH) and the Powell-Mason line (PM). The PH line is located near Ghiradelli Square at Beach and Hyde Street. The PM line is located at Bay and Taylor Street. Both lines intersect each other. Best place to get off is Washington & Mason (near Cable Car Museum) or Powell & California. Walk down a few blocks and you will be in Chinatown. From BART, take BART to Downtown San Francisco (exit Powell Street Station), then go above ground and transfer to 30 Stockton, 45 Union-Stockton, or cable car to Chinatown. B

Chinatown Milan

Never To Be, Napoleon

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Recently, while in Barcelona, I visited the Arc de Triomf. Only one of many triumphal arches I have visited over the years, I decided that I would make a point of visiting any and all that were present in the cities that I would currently be in.

Having seen the Arco della Pace in Milan a few years ago for a few brief moments as I was making my way to the Castle Sforza, I recently decided to make an official visit.

Arco della Pace or “Arch of Peace” is located in the Parco Sempione, directly opposite the famous Castello Sforzesco. Built under Napoleon’s rule, it is one of Milan’s many city gates and was built in the style of Paris’ Arc du Triomphe. Napoleon’s intention was that he could pass through the arch on his way into Milan as he traveled from Paris.

Built between the years of 1807 and 1838, it was constructed from many materials, including marble, bronze and stucco. Architect, Luigi Cagnola was commissioned to construct the neoclassical structure and added bas-reliefs, Corinthian columns, and statues including a bronze effigy of a Goddess led by four horses. Under the statue, which tops the arch, there is an inscription that reads Sestina della Pace (poem by peace). The names of the fallen of World War II are inscribed above the arch and at the side of the Arch, above the columns, there are two plates with the names of the fallen of the Great War and at the center there is a large slab dedicated to Victor Emanuel II. This slab is bordered by two bas-reliefs depicting two soldiers.

While the decoration of the arch initially intended to document Napoleon’s victories and originally named the Victory Arch, the conquering of the Napoleonic Kingdom of Italy by the Austrian Empire put an end to the idea. Eventually, under the rule of Emperor Francis II, the monument was decorated with scenes from the Battle of Leipzig, which ironically, led to Napoleon’s defeat.

The historical arch, one of the most familiar landmarks in the city is a common meeting point and area where locals gather to relax and enjoy the spaciousness of the Piazza Sempione and Milan’s largest park. Children can be spotted running and playing and adults exercising or enjoying an aperitif or a snack.

The arch’s base is enclosed by a metal chain, hindering visitors from walking through and lingering under the arch. There is no security presence, however, so I believe, the barrier is more of a deterrence to keep the homeless from using the space as a shelter. There are some beautiful motifs and carvings inside of the three arches that are worth taking a better look, so if you feel comfortable stepping over the chain, go for it!

There are many nightclubs and restaurants in the area as well as Milan’s own Chinatown, so grab a seat and admire the beauty of this historical triumphal arch and then take a short walk to enjoy the offerings of the area.

In my quest to see all of the world’s triumphal arches, today I achieved part of my goal.

Quite the triumph!

Now…how many more are there? Stay tuned!

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Arco della Pace

  • Address: Piazza Sempione, 20154 Milano MI, Italy
  • Hours: 24 hours, daily
  • Admission: free
  • Getting There: Metro, Line 2, Moscova or Line 1, Cairoli and walk through Castle straight through park to Arch.

St. Peter’s In the Golden Sky

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Churches in Pavia?

There are so many.

While planning my trip to the city, south of Milan, the Duomo was at the top of my list, but being in Italy, certainly there would be other churches to visit.

As I googled “churches in Pavia” the resulting map was a sea of red icons. I marked them all on my map and hoped to visit at least two or three.

After viewing the Duomo’s splendor, I decided to walk north towards the Visconti Castle which houses the City Museums of Pavia. As the sun was edging lower in the evening sky, casting a golden glow over the city, I realized that the castle would have to wait until a future visit, but I also wanted to squeeze in one more thing before I headed back to Milan.

A church perhaps?

San Pietro in Ciel d’Oro, located a few blocks away, was the perfect choice as its Italian name translates to St. Peter’s In the Golden Sky…very fitting as I watched the sinking sun light the remains of the azure sky.

Trying to follow the map on my phone, I must have walked past the church a couple of times. It was a local woman, out for a walk, who finally pointed me in the right direction…the unassuming church, with its brick facade, is tucked away in a corner of a small, shady piazza.

Walking into the dimly lit interior, I noticed there was not another soul in sight except for an elderly priest attending his duties near the the front of the church. The ancient atmosphere of the basilica was mesmerizing and as I made my way through the interior and its three naves, I discovered the remains of a twelfth century mosaic in the apse as well as traces of frescoes from the fifteenth and sixteenth century.

Though the basilica dates back to the year 604 AD, the current building, only dates to the twelfth century and was consecrated by Pope Innocent II in 1132. Its grand dome in the central nave was rebuilt in 1487 and I learned from the priest that the original color of the wooden ceiling was decorated with golden colored paint, thus giving it its name.

The priest directed me into the crypt under the presbytery, which houses the remains of Severino Boezio, consul, senator and philosopher and I enjoyed making my way through the low, vaulted space. The presbytery itself, however, is the highlight of the church and what made me glad that I sought out this architectural gem. It is here that the fourteenth century marble Ark of St. Augustine is on display…the centerpiece for which this church is most notable. The Ark is decorated with scenes from the saint’s life (including his conversion, baptism, miracles after his death and the transfer of his relics to Pavia) and it is the silver urn at the foot of the Ark that houses his relics.

Another highlight of the basilica is the sacristy with its ribbed vault, sixteenth century adornments and a seventeenth century canvas of St. Augustine and St. Jerome. There are also two beautiful altars, one sculpted in 1940 and dedicated to St. Rita and the other dedicated to the Sacred Heart, dating to 1963.


Noticing the priest standing near the door, I knew that it was time to call it a day. Thanking him, I headed out into the now darkening evening and my waiting train.

Elated that I was able to visit two of the city’s holy sites and especially one with such significance. I opened up my map and marked off the two, only to realize that I’ll have to make many more trips to Pavia!

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Basilica di San Pietro in Ciel d’Oro

Pavia’s Pride

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In the center of Pavia lies…the Duomo!

Yes, Pavia has its own.

Not a Duomo that can match the size and beauty of Milan’s, but one that fits the small scale of Pavia.

Built on the site of two pre-existing cathedrals, Saint Stephen and Santa Maria Maria del Popolo, Pavia’s cathedral was established in 1488 with the idea of offering a new place of worship to the city. Named after Saint Stephen, construction was initiated by Cristoforo Rocchi and later, Giovanni Antonio Amadeo, but most notably, Leonardi Da Vinci’s advice was also solicited on the project.

Knowing that there were many churches in Pavia, it was the one located in Cathedral Square that I most wanted to see. As I approached the square and spied the dome of the duomo, I must admit, it was a bit disappointing. When one hears the word duomo, one expects great things, like you would see in Milan. The facade, however, has largely remained incomplete with the terracotta surface still untouched by the marble in which it was supposed to be covered. Realizing that it was built over several centuries (resulting in a number of different influences) made me even more anxious to see what was inside.

Before entering, I spotted the remains next to the cathedral, the remains of the Civic Tower (Torre Civica), built in 1330 and enlarged in 1583. After standing proudly beside the cathedral for so many hundreds of years, the tower collapsed on March 17, 1989. To the left of the duomo, the remains of the two original churches can be seen in a fenced area.

Entering the structure, we found a much larger-than-expected cathedral consisting of a design of a Greek cross, topped with a dome designed by Carlo Maciachini. It is most interesting to note that this dome, held up by uniquely styled pillars, is the third largest in size in Italy.

At first glance, the far-reaching church’s marble interior appears to be quite plain, especially in the dim natural light. It is when you begin moving around the structure’s interior that you begin to notice the immense detail and treasures that lie tucked into each unique chapel that line the church’s perimeter and discover how light and airy the cathedral actually feels. Though it is tempting to head to the center of the church and examine the immense dome, and then the illuminated presbytery, take a deep breath and give yourself the time this grand structure deserves.

The main marble altar, with its eighteenth century top, was brought from the church of San Pietro in Ciel d’Oro. It draws you in with its intricately carved statues. The beautiful pulpit must be inspected thoroughly with its lifelike figures supporting the structure. It is truly amazing!

Making your way around to each of the chapels, there is much to discover in each. In St. Agnes’s chapel, there is a nineteenth century altarpiece representing a young version of the saint, lifting over her head, her symbol, the lamb. Another altarpiece, this one with the Virgin Mary, can be found in the aptly named, Virgin’s Chapel. Painted in Rome by Federico Faruffini, it depicts the Virgin with the city of Pavia at her feet. Beside the altar, there are statues of her parents Gioacchina and Anna as well as the remains of the bishop of Pavia, Damian.

In St. Peter’s Chapel, take note of the two symmetrical stones which show the saint’s coat of arms and his portrait and the cock on the left of the altarpiece which refers to St. Peter’s treason.

On the altar of St. Alessandro Sauli’s chapel, you can spy a stone urn, that holds the saint’s relics inside as well as plaster flying angels on clouds. The Chapel of the Rosary has a most interesting painting on canvas by Bernardino Gatti called Soiaro, created in 1531. Representing the Virgin of Rosary, there are stories about the Mysteries; fourteen of which must be read counterclockwise and the fifteen with the Coronation of the Virgin on the crowning tablet.

In the chapel of St. John the Baptist, a painting of the saint in the desert is flanked by statues of his parents, Elisabetta and Zaccaria. Under the altar is the body of St. Invenzio.

There are many other chapels to inspect including the Chapel of the Virgin of Caravaggio, the Chapel of Intercession, Sfondrati’s Chapel, the Crucifix’s Chapel, St. Crispino’s Chapel, St. Riccardo Pampuri’s Chapel, Trinity Chapel, St. Barnaba’s Chapel, St. Siro’s Chapel, the Chapel of the Sacred Heart and the Chapel of the Holy Family.

As you make your way around the cathedral, you will notice there are many notable figures and many past bishops, buried within and marked with engraved marble slabs. The most important person to be buried within the cathedral is St. Siro (in St. Siro’s Chapel). St. Siro is known to have been the first bishop of Pavia during the first century. According to legend, it was St. Siro who was the boy with the five loaves who appears in the Gospels. It is said that he followed St. Peter to Rome and was sent out to preach in the major cities of northern Italy.

The other most important item that should not be missed is the seventeenth century reliquary which holds the Holy Thorns which came from Christ’s crown. On Whit Sunday, an ancient mechanism allows the descent of the precious relics over a golden cloud to descend and go back up the following day.

Now that’s something I would like to see!

Exiting the cathedral and looking out onto the square, I thought of my first impression of Pavia’s duomo when I arrived. Turning back and taking another look, I realized something…

First impressions can be so deceiving.

Pavia’s duomo measures up in its own way!

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Pavia Duomo

Note: Check out the Regisole (“Sun King”) monument in Cathedral Square outside the Duomo. Originally erected in Ravenna, it was moved to Pavia in the Middle Ages and stands for Pavia’s deep connection with imperial Rome.

The Old Covered Bridge

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Why did the pedestrian cross the river?

To check out the beautiful covered bridge.

Okay, so that’s not how the old joke goes, but when one sees a beautiful covered bridge, one must absolutely take a walk to the other side!

Having decided to take some side trips from Milan lately, I ventured out to the town of Pavia on the advice of a friend. Marking a few items of interest on my map, the first one I wanted to see was the Ponte Coperto (the Covered Bridge), also called the Ponte Vecchio (the Old Bridge).

The structure is a brick and stone arch bridge which crosses the Ticino River and replaces the previous medieval bridge, dating from 1354 (with an even older Roman one preceding it). When the previous bridge was damaged during the war in 1945, repair was considered until the structure partially collapsed a couple of years later.

The new bridge’s design was based on the previous bridge and was begun in 1949, incorporating one difference and one similarity. The previous bridge contained seven arches and the current one contains only five, however, like its predecessor, it contains a chapel in the center.

The Ponte Coperto connects the suburbs, the traditional place of washerwomen, gravel quarrymen and fisherman, to the city’s center and there were many pedestrians crossing the bridge as I made my way to the other side.

Peeking inside the chapel at the altar, devoted to St. Giovanni Nepomuceno, patron of drowned men, I also paid particular attention to the vaulted wood ceiling above. In the center of the bridge, I stopped to examine the remains of the ancient Roman bridge ruins which sit in the rushing water of the Ticino.

So what did I do after I made my way to the other side?

I went back!

There’s lots more to see in Pavia!

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Ponte Coperto

  • http://www.comune.pv.it/site/home.html
  • Address: 27100 Pavia, Province of Pavia, Italy
  • Hours: daily, 24 hours
  • Admission: free
  • Getting There: About a 12-15 minute walk from the Pavia train station

Bridging the Gap

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While walking in the La Latina neighborhood of Madrid, a glance at my map offered up an icon illustrating a point of interest.

Viaducto de Segovia.

Since I was headed in that general direction, I thought I would check it out.

I won’t lie. I saw the word viaduct and the picture in my head was of something I would see in Rome. Old…brick…arches. And don’t forget the boatloads of tourists milling about taking pictures.

What I found instead was more of a modern structure…a bridge spanning Segovia Street, 25 meters below, thus giving it its name.

Segovia Street lies in the basin formed by the old San Pedro Creek which was one of the most important routes of entry from Segovia into Madrid many centuries ago. At the time, Bailén Street ended at the edge of the ravine and pedestrians were forced to make the steep descent and ascent from Segovia Street to reach the area of the Royal Palace of Madrid.

When the Royal Court was established in 1561, King Philip began to promote the expansion of the city. He visualized extending Bailén Street across the ravine to allow easy travel to other parts of the city and country.

Although the architect of the Royal Palace, Juan Bautista Sacchetti, conceived a plan to build a span, lack of funding put the proposal on the back-burner until 1874, when a structure made of wood and iron was completed. This structure remained until 1932 when architects Ferrero, Aracil and Aldaz created plans for a concrete structure. Taking only two years to complete, this bridge sustained damage during the Spanish Civil War in the Seige of Madrid, but was repaired in 1942.

Though a plan was put into place in the later part of the 1970’s, to demolish the bridge, a decision was finally made to restore it instead. Today’s construction is a result of that restoration, which allowed for the increase of its height and span and more importantly, the increasing traffic loads and capacity.

Today, the Viaducto de Segovia is not a main tourist attraction, but one that tourists merely “happen” upon due to its proximity to the Cathedral de la Almudena and the Royal Palace of Madrid. It is quite famous, not only for having been featured in many literary works and Spanish cinema, but for a reason most do not like to talk about. Until 1998, it was the site of countless suicides, thus being dubbed “the suicide bridge”. Recognizing the ease of access pedestrians had over the low edges, authorities finally erected transparent screens to prevent further attempts.

If you find yourself in the area, take a walk across the bridge on the pedestrian lanes for a beautiful view of the Casa de Campo and the lake. When heading south, take the stairs on the left hand side to venture down to Segovia Street for a more intimate view of the bridge’s structure.

It truly is an architectural marvel and a piece of Madrid’s developmental history.

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Viaducto de Segovia

  • Address: Calle de Bailén, 12, 28005 Madrid, Spain
  • Hours: 24 hours, daily
  • Admission: free

Meet Me There

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

One of the things I love about European cities is their public squares.

At any hour of the day, you can find people sitting on the benches, relaxing, talking and watching their children play. They are also the perfect meeting points for those coming together from various points in the city.

Many of these squares have beautiful fountains and artwork and are attractive to tourists for their outdoor cafes, perfect for people watching.

My favorite square in Madrid, is the Plaza Mayor. One of the first places I ever visited years ago, I still love it’s warm medieval ambiance, the many restaurants that spill into the plaza, the performers and the multitude of traditional artists that come each day and night to sell their wares. As proof, many of their paintings grace the walls of my home.

Plaza Mayor
Street Performers

In the heart of Madrid, the Plaza Mayor was first built during the Hapsburg period of Philip III’s reign in the 15th century, just down the road from another famous plaza, Puerta del Sol. It was originally named, Plaza del Arrabal and used as the main market. After the plaza’s transferral to the city of Madrid in 1561, renovations resulted and after three major fires in its history, what you see today can be credited to architect Juan de Villanueva who lowered the surrounding buildings, closed the corners and created large entrances to the square.

Measuring 423 feet by 308 feet, the square contains 237 balconies, nine gates and a statue of Philip III on a horse in the center. In the past, executions and bullfights were once held here, but today, its major (and much milder) events include the annual Christmas market and on Sunday mornings, a stamp collecting and coin collecting market.

Plaza Mayor Gate
Statue of Philip III

Next to the Plaza Mayor, on Arco de Cuchillero Street, is something that should not be missed on a visit to Madrid. The Restaurante Botin, one of my favorites, which is the oldest restaurant in the world and offers some affordable and delectable culinary delights.

Another spot that people meet in Madrid is close by…Puerta del Sol. Not only a meeting spot now, but a popular location in the past.

Between the 17th and 19th centuries, the Puerta del Sol’s Post Office was the destination for couriers coming from other areas of Spain. Residents, eager for the latest news, would congregate in the hopes of gleaning what they could from the couriers and each other.

The square originated as one of the gates in the city wall that once surrounded Madrid in the 15th century. The name of the gate, which faced east, came from the rising sun which decorated the entry. Today, there is no trace of the ancient wall or the gate, but there are other landmarks that many descend upon the area to see.

The former House of the Post Office, by Jacques Marquet was completed in 1768, now houses the seat of the Presidency of the Madrid Community. Situated across the street from the square, you can also find Kilometer Zero embedded in the sidewalk just under the building’s clock tower. This monumental slab marks the point from which the distances of Spain’s national roads are measured and specifically the starting point for measuring the distances of the country’s six national roads. It is also the starting point for Madrid’s numbered streets. The closer to the kilometer mark 0, the lower the street number.

Old Post Office
Kilometer Zero Plaque

Within the square, you can find a mounted statue of Charles III of Spain (El Rey Alcalde, the mayor-king) who is honored here for the extensive public works he set in motion.

Statue of Charles III

Another famous statue is The Bear and the Strawberry Tree (el Osso y el Madroño) which is the symbol of Madrid. I will always remember this statue as once I was instructed to meet someone there, not knowing it had been moved (in 2009) from the north side at the entrance to Calle del Carmen. Needless to say, I couldn’t find it and my name was mud with the person the next day!

The Bear and the Strawberry Tree

Another interesting statue found in the square is the Mariblanca. This statue is a copy, possibly of the famous Venus de Milo and marks the place of a former fountain displaying that figure.

My favorite thing in the square, however, can be found high overhead. The Tío Pepe lighted sign is located above the square’s former Paris Hotel. After a three year absence for renovation of the building, the sign, was returned to its original location in 2014. Tío Pepe (Spanish for Uncle Joe) has been greeting visitors to Puerta del Sol, since 1938, while enticing them to try the famous brand of Sherry.

Tio Pepe Sign

Puerta del Sol has been the site of many demonstrations over the years, but mainly attracts visitors for its shopping, restaurants and sites. Not to be missed, if you find yourself traveling through the city on Madrid’s extensive metro and are passing through Sol, jump on out and check it out.

Just recently, I had the pleasure to stay near the Plaza de España. This beautiful square exhibits more of a park like feel and is extremely peaceful, though still located in an extremely urban area.

Located at the intersection of Grand Vía and Princesa streets, there is a large number of hotels, shopping and restaurants located nearby as well as the Royal Palace.

Despite the many attractions located in this area, however, many people come to Plaza España to see the Cervantes Monument, sculpted by Rafael Martínez Zapatero and Lorenzo Cullaut Valera. Commissioned by King Alfonso XIII on the anniversary of the publication of the second part of Don Quixote, the main part of the fountain with the figures of Don Quixote and his squire Sancho Panzo was erected in the 1920’s but not fully completed until the 1960’s when the sculptures of Aldonza and Dulcinea were added on the side.

Cervantes Monument
Cervantes Monument, rear

Two architecturally important buildings flank the square, Torre Madrid and Edificio Espana, two of the tallest buildings in Madrid, thrilling those impressed by progress. For those, however, who want to enjoy nature, Plaza España offers shaded and wooded areas, a fountain and pond and seasonal landscaping.

Torre Madrid and Edificio Espana

After a long walk, I grabbed a seat opposite the monument to rest and enjoy the view. Glancing at my watch, I noticed it to be almost five, the time I had planned to meet a friend here. After my long walk from Puerta del Sol and Plaza Mayor, my feet were enjoying the respite and my eyes were enjoying the natural and architectural gems set before me.

Maybe I should have made it five-thirty…

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Plaza Mayor

Puerta del Sol

Plaza de España



My Favourite Palace

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Fascinated by Britain’s Royal family?

Many people love to follow the Royal family. Though I am not one of them, I do enjoy seeing the way others live, including the Royal family.

Never having had the opportunity to procure tickets to Buckingham Palace, I have, however, had the opportunity to visit Kensington Palace, Windsor Castle, Hampton Court and the Palace of Holyroodhouse. It is quite interesting to view the ornate rooms and learn of the history of those who resided in these opulant manors.

In London, with time to kill, I decided that I had to venture out into the cold, but clear day. The sky was a vivid blue and although frigid, it was enjoyable to venture down High Street with no particular destination in mind. Soon finding myself in Kensington Gardens, drawn in by the sparkling lake and well manicured lawn, I stood before Kensington Palace.

Having seen the Oscar nominated movie, The Favourite, I was intrigued to learn that an exhibit on the movie’s costumes was being held within the palace.

Why not?

Paying my admission, I began my re-exploration of the royal residence that has been in the family since the 17th century and is currently the official London residence of the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge (William and Kate), the Duke and Duchess of Sussex (Harry and Meghan), Princess Eugenie and her husband, Jack Brooksbank, the Duke and Duchess of Glouchester, the Duke and Duchess of Kent and Prince and Princess Michael of Kent.

Though you won’t see any of these high profile residents roaming the halls, it is interesting to venture through the State Rooms which display many paintings and other objects from the Royal Collection.

The self guided tour directed me through the King’s State Apartments, which were the public rooms where George II and Queen Caroline entertained important guests. In the early 1700s, the King and Queen moved into the palace after the death of his father George I. Grand parties were hosted here in the lavish rooms and you can take note of the elaborate murals and paintings that grace the walls and ceilings.

Moving through the King’s Gallery, I learned that it was refurbished by George II after his arrival and was intended as a gallery for the finest pictures of the Royal Collection. The Cupola Room was used for entertaining more than official business and was the site of musical performance dancing and gambling.

Arriving at the Queen’s Apartments, the oldest part of the palace, it was here that Queen Mary II, who ruled with her husband, King Willam III in the 17th century, spent much of her time. Many portraits of William III, Mary II, Charles I and Henry VIII were hung in the Privy Chamber by Caroline to reinforce the German born couple’s legitimate right to the British throne.

The red damask covered Presence Chamber, offered a look at the space where King George II received ambassadors, men of ideas and ordinary people. An audience with the King could change a person’s life and many were brought here asking for favors or seeking royal approval. In 1734, the King and Queen received an Indian chief and his attendants from the new Americas colony, Georgia.

The Queen’s Drawing Room was where Mary spent much of her time. Her beautifully adorned bed can be seen in the Queen’s Bedroom and was where Mary’s half-brother may have been born at St. James’ Palace in 1688.

The Dining Room was a bit smaller than I imagined and possibly the place where Mary took in her meals when she desired privacy. Moving through the Queen’s closet, I learned of the story of how Mary contracted smallpox, dying and leaving William to rule alone.

Finally, it was in the extended Gallery where I finally discovered the exhibition of the costumes from The Favourite. Though there were some paper mache duplications that I had encountered in the King’s State Apartments, it was here that the actual costumes were on display. It was quite thrilling to see them up close and remember the scenes that they played a vital role.

Princess Diana, though now gone for almost twenty-two years, has remained fondly in the memory of the world. The palace recognizes that there are many who are still fascinated with her lifestyle and legacy and I was glad to see the permanent exhibit, Diana, Her Fashion Story was still available for viewing. Pictures of Diana grace the walls, along with quotes and stories, however, it is the glass cases that contain the showstoppers…a large number of Diana’s outfits worn for various occasions. Each outfit contains a placard and picture that describes the occasion worn as well as the designer of the ensemble.

The last room that we were able to inspect contained some of the royal jewels, including Queen Victoria’s Emerald Necklace, Earrings and Broach, The Fife Diamond Tiara, given to Princess Louise, Queen Victoria’s granddaughter, by her husband, the Duke of Fife and Princess Louise’s Diamond Necklace Tiara, gifts from her parents which can also be transformed into a necklace.

Eventually, I made my way through the gift shop and out into the gardens. Though the pond was drained for winter maintenance and nothing was in bloom, it was interesting to stop and imagine what it might look like in a couple of months with the approaching warmer weather.

With an hour of so of daylight remaining, I decided to make the most of the afternoon and walked out to the lake. Hundreds of birds, including graceful swans swam through the cold water looking for a handout from the children who had come prepared with bags of bread crusts. Though I am a bit afraid of the aggressive, feathered creatures, it was nice to capture some close-up photographs.

Eventually, with waning light, it was time to head back to High Street to search for dinner. Though I had visited the Palace a few years prior, it was nice to see it once again and especially to enjoy The Favourite exhibition.

Makes me want to go and see the movie again!

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Kensington Palaceh

  • https://www.hrp.org.uk/kensington-palace/#gs.1yxbr4
  • Address: Kensington Gardens, London W8 4PX, UK
  • Hours: Daily, 1000-1800, last admission, 1700
  • Admission: Adults, £19.50, Children, £9.70
  • Getting There: London Underground, High Street Kensington Station, Circle and District lines and 10-15 minute walk. Queensway Station, Central line and 10-15 minute walk, Notting Hill Station, Central, Circle and District lines and 20-25 minute walk. Bus, routes 70, 94, 148, 390 (to Bayswater Road) and
    routes 9, 10, 49, 52, 70, 452 (to Kensington High Street).

Gettin’ Around

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Have you ever imagined what it was like to travel by subway when the lines were first introduced in New York City?

At the NY Transit Museum you can find out!

While staying with a friend in Brooklyn, we were searching for something to occupy our morning. She suggested the Transit Museum and I rather reluctantly agreed. After all, we were in Brooklyn and one would think that all the best museums are in Manhattan.

Not so!

The NY Transit Museum offers a look at the history of the city’s transportation from early ships, trains and passenger ferries to modern subways, buses and cars. The museum highlights how mass transit has helped to make the region what it is today through artistic renderings, historic maps, guidebooks and digital technology.

As we walked through the first part of the museum, we were able to analyze photographs and read stories of how the massive undertaking of the construction of the subway system was approached.

Moving on, we witnessed the progression of the toll booths used within the subway system and how payments moved from tokens to the present day metro card. Dating back as far as the subway’s opening in 1904 until ones in used as recently as 2003, the turnstiles displayed here include some used in the 1939 New York World’s Fair, designed to require passengers to pay double fare upon both entry and exit at the World’s Fair subway station. Most of the turnstiles are operable and we enjoyed walking freely through each of them.

Further back on the upper level, the museum covers the other means of transportation within the region via roadways…cars, buses, and older trolleys and some of the methods used to direct traffic, including signs and traffic lights. This part is especially exciting for the younger set as it provides some great photo ops. Ever wanted to see what its like to be a bus or subway driver in the city? You can sit behind the wheel and controls and get a feel for it here!

Other parts of the museum cover a wide selection of maps of the city and the metro system and the city as well as mementos and collections of items found (or used to be found) in the metro stations. There is even a section if comic strips and artwork dealing with travel.

My favorite part of the museum, however, is the one that should be the main reason for visiting. Downstairs is the decommissioned Court Street subway station which was opened on April 9, 1936. Here, two fully powered and operational subway tracks display many historic examples of the city’s subway and elevated railway equipment. These rail cars can still be operated and date back to the city’s subway system beginnings. These cars are fully furnished with vintage advertisements and route maps and you can wander freely throughout each car, taking a seat for a rest (and pretend trip), if you wish.

The subway car which was rebuilt for the movie Money Train is also part of the museum’s collection and the station has been used for many movies and television series throughout the years, including Guilty Bystander, The FBI Story, 1974’s The Taking of Pelham One Two Three, 2009’s The Taking of Pelham 123 and Life on Mars.

The museum’s subway cars are also sometimes used for excursions such as holiday specials at the end of the year and Yankee and Met events and tickets are available for anyone to purchase.

A few specialized railwork vehicles used in the past for maintenance can be viewed on the platform as well as a large wheel truck and motor (bogie). You can learn about the development of the New York’s rail transit system by checking out the informational panels in the center of the station.

Since space in the station is limited, a large number of museum cars are kept off-site in various subway yards and shops awaiting restoration, undergoing restoration, or in storage. In addition to the museum’s large subway car collection, it also has possession of a sizable fleet of vintage buses. With no area to display these artifacts, they are stored in various bus depots around the city and brought out for special events such as the museum’s annual “Bus Festival” which has been held since 1994.

The New York Transit Museum was quite the enjoyable way to spend a few hours and I must admit, even though it may have not been my first choice for our entertainment for the day, I loved every bit of it and learned a great deal. If you love travel, like I do, take the time to visit this amazing museum and learn about the history of New York City’s transportation.

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New York Transit Museum

  • https://www.nytransitmuseum.org/
  • Address: 99 Schermerhorn St, Brooklyn, NY 11201
  • Hours: Tuesday-Friday, 1000-1600, Saturday and Sunday, 1100-1700. Closed Monday and major holidays.
  • Admission: Adults, $10, Children (ages 2-17) $5, Seniors 62+: $5, Free on Wednesdays. Visitors with Disabilities: $5 with MTA Reduced-Fare MetroCard, MTA Reduced-Fare Easy Pay Card, Access-a-Ride Card, Able-Ride Card, Para-transit Card, or Suffolk County Accessible Transportation (SCAT) Card
  • Getting There: Nearest subway stations, Borough Hall (2,3,4,5, N,R,W), Jay Street-Metrotech (A,C,F,R), Hoyt Street (2,3).

Barcelona’s Beginnings

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After spending some time walking around Barcelona one afternoon, I stumbled upon the Barcelona City History Museum. It was getting a little windy and cold outside and it was time to move indoors. Discovering that admission was free on Sundays after 3:00 p.m., I glanced at my watch and found that it was perfect timing!

The Barcelona City History Museum (MUHBA) is dedicated to conservation, research, communication and exhibits pertaining to the historical heritage of the city from its origins in Roman times until the present day. Funded by the Barcelona municipality, it is located in the Gothic Quarter and the place to go if you are interested in Barcelona’s past, present and future.

In 1931, the late gothic palace, Casa Padellàs, was moved stone by stone to Plaça del Rei for its preservation and to avoid its demolition. While it was being reconstructed, remains of the ancient city of Barcino were discovered. When a whole quarter of the Roman city was uncovered, it was decided that this would be the location of the historical museum that would later also evolve into an archaeological museum.

On the entry level, in the rebuilt Casa Padellàs, there are many statues and pieces discovered during the archaeological excavations as well as a film that describes the evolution of the city. The exhibited objects display the history of Barcelona from late medieval to modern times, highlighting the government and its regulations, the guilds, civic celebrations, wars and conflicts, crafts and trade, the International Expositions held in the city and its transformations.

The best part, however, is the subterranean level with walkways that wind its way around the archaeological ruins of Barcino. On display here are beautiful mosaic pieces, carved texts, buried wine vats, columns, the Baptistery and main doorway of the Episcopal hall, a Roman house and the Episcopal Palace.

YMy favorite part of the complex, however, was the Palace Chapel. The chapel of the Mayor Royal Palace, dedicated to Saint Agatha, was built at the beginning of the 14th century by King James II. The beautiful vaulted ceiling, stained glass and gothic altarpiece by Jaume Huguet capture your interest amid the otherwise plain interior.

Located a short walk from the Cathedral of Barcelona, incorporate it into your day while in the Gothic quarter to educate yourself on this city’s unique beginnings.

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Barcelona History Museum