Athens is a place where historical landmarks are a dime a dozen.
The Acropolis, Temple of Zeus, Hadrian’s Arch (to name a few)…you can take you pick of so many to fill your time while visiting the ancient city.
Since I’ve been to most of these places, I was on the lookout for something different. Thinking back on my visit to the Keremeikos Ancient Cemetery, I realized that there had to be more modern cemeteries within the city, much like those of Paris (Pere Lachaise), Milan (Monumentale) and Buenos Aires (La Recoleta).
After conducting a bit of research, I discovered that the official cemetery of the City of Athens dates back to 1837. A prestigious burial place sought out by both Greeks and foreigners, it was the first to be built within the city’s limits and located not far from the Panathenaic Stadium.
Setting out in the warm, sunny afternoon, I made the journey quickly and soon found myself at the top end of Anapafseos Street.
Admittedly, the entrance to the cemetery was a bit disappointing as it is scaffolded, presently under construction. One inside, however, I was greeted immediately on my left with one of the cemetery’s three churches, the Church of Saint Theodores (the other two being Saint Lazarus and Saint Charles). Though the church was not open, I enjoyed its blue painted architecture and single slim belltower standing tall in the bright afternoon.
Making my way through the more elaborate tombs located in the forefront of the cemetery, I admired those of Heinrich Schliemann, German businessman and archaeological excavator of the cities of Troy, Mycenae and Tiryns, Ioannis Pesmazoglou, Greek banker, economist and politician and Georgios Averoff, businessman, philanthropist and one of the great national benefactors of Greece.
Tomb of Heinrich Schliemann
Tomb of Ioannis Pesmazoglou
Tomb of Georgios Averoff
Making the steep walk towards the rear of the cemetery, I was in search of something special…the tomb with the famous sculpture of a dead young girl called I Koimomeni (“The Sleeping Girl”), created by Yannoulis Chalepas. A bit of exploration was in order, as there are others that appeared to be very similar. I soon found the serene sculpture immortalized by sculptor Chalepas and wondered about her fate. It was later that I learned that the sleeping girl, Sophia Afentaki, was born in 1855 and died of tuberculosis at the age of 18 years.
“The Sleeping Girl”
Continuing my exploration, I was saddened by the overgrown condition of many parts of the cemetery and took extra time to pay respects to many of the graves in the area. Many of the graves and tombs were obviously quite expensive and many housed the remains of many members of Greek families and on the opposite end of the spectrum, there were also many grave sites that were quite modest.
Winding my way deeper and deeper into the cemeteries bounds, I discovered unique sculpture, touching mementos, fresh and dying flowers, distinctly crafted lanterns and fading photos. What I didn’t encounter, however, were other visitors. The cemetery was perfectly empty and quiet.
After a while, the peace and quiet became quite disconcerting. Realizing that I was probably a bit vulnerable, alone in a cemetery, even in the daylight, I decided to head back to the front of the graveyard, passing the burial areas reserved for Protestants and Jews.
The Cemetery of Athens was a unique experience, one that most tourists do not search out despite it’s historical and cultural significance. Though I did see a couple of other tourists in the beginning of my visit seeking out some of the famous grave sites, there were not many others that I ran across.
If it is historical or architectural significance that you seek or a desire to search out some of the famous grave sites, take a trip to the First Cemetery of Athens, a peaceful haven that will not disappoint.
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First Cemetery of Athens
Address: Logginou 3, Athina 116 36, Greece
Hours: 0800-2000, daily
Admission: free
Notable Burials within the First Cemetery of Athens:
Archbishops Christodoulos, Chrysostomos II, Seraphim and Dorotheus
Hero of Greek War of Independence, Odysseas Androutsos
Prime Ministers, Georgios Kafantaris, Andreas Papandreou, George Papandreou, Charilaos Trikoupis, Xenophon Zolotas
Politicians, Theodoros Kolokotronis, Alexandros Mavrokordatos, Melina Mercouri, Andreas Michalakopoulos, Grigoris Lambrakis, Nikolaos Bourandas (Police and Fire Service General), Yannis Makriyannis (and merchant, military officer author), Nikos Zachariadis (General Secretary of the Communist Party of Greece from 1931 to 1956)
Sculptor, Yannoulis Chalepas
Philanthropist and businessman, George Averoff
Painter, Demetrios Farmakopoulos
Archaeologist, Adolf Furtwangler
Filmmaker, Humphrey Jennings
Statesman, Dimitrios Kallergis
Conductor, Pianist and Composer, Dimitri Mitropoulos,
University of Athens’ Greatest Benefactor, Antonios Papadakis
Military Dictator during the Regime of the Colonels, Georgios Papadopoulos
Lawyer, Alexandros Papanastasiou
Director, Screenwriter and Lyricist,Alekos Sakellarios
Feminist, Kalliroi Parren
Amateur Archaeologist who excavated the site of Troy, Heinrich Schliemann
There are many historic sites in the Outer Banks of North Carolina. Those located in Corolla give visitors a chance to incorporate a bit of antiquity with the sun-filled vacation.
As I was driving near the Currituck Lighthouse a couple of years ago, I spied the Corolla Chapel. A quaint little church, tucked behind the lighthouse, on the north end of the village, it sparked my interest. On that day, however, I had a carload full of teenaged boys who had already agreed to an interruption of their beach time for a visit to the lighthouse…I knew I would be pushing my luck to require them to prolong their absence from the sun and sand.
This time, there was only me.
I had just come from one of the horse-spotting tours and remembered this historic church. With time on my hands, I decided to investigate.
The Corolla Chapel is an interdenominational Christian fellowship that dates back to 1885. The original sanctuary was situated across the road from its current location and moved and expanded in 2002 to accommodate the expanding number of attendees.
The chapel still retains its original interior walls and contains many of its original items including its pews, pump organ, pulpit and pulpit chair.
As I walked around the small space, I marveled at the stained glass windows and the cross-shaped plan of the building. Though it was a weekday, I envisioned that the best way to really understand this small church was to attend one of the services that are held throughout the year and on special occasions.
Maybe I will have to come back again.
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Five churches, a market, an overlook, an arch, dinner and a procession?
That’s a lot for one day!
On our third day in Antigua, we had a trip to Pacaya volcano planned during the afternoon, so we decided that after our busy previous day, we were going to take it easy and hang out near our hotel at the market during the morning.
Well, that was the plan anyway!
Entering the property from Alameda de Santa Lucia, we headed in to what we thought was the artisan’s market. Instead, we found the local market, filled with clothing, shoes, dvd’s and any other thing you could think of besides souvenirs. A little confused, we continued to walk around, thinking that maybe we had confused the El Carmen market with what we thought was here. Finally, we stumbled upon the entrance to a modern building, a little to the back and on the south side of the local market.
Built around large, centralized courtyards, the Mercado de Artesanías contains many vendors selling from their small spaces, each hoping to gain your attention and business. There is a wide variety of beautiful and colorful Guatemalan handicrafts here.
Since I had already purchased some creatively embroidered blouses and table runners the day before at the small market at Santuario San Francisco El Grande, I was only looking a nativity set and a mask for my collections and crucifixes for my parents. Of course, I was open to whatever else I could find and I had quite a bit of cash ready!
There were food and drink vendors, an ATM and clean bathrooms on site and the entire atmosphere appeared as if it had been built sometime in the last few years.
It was quite difficult to narrow down my decisions, but I learned that vendors were more willing to bargain if you were purchasing more than one item. So, Marta made me the best deals and we walked away very happy with everything I had been searching for.
At the back of the market, we found some interesting booths selling colorful bags of sawdust and paper cutouts with intricate patterns. We had seen colorful sawdust in the streets between the cobblestones. Could this all be related? It would take some time, but the significance of this would be revealed to us later!
Passing the bus station with the colorfully painted and hyped up, re-purposed school buses, called the Chicken Buses, we exited the market. My son had not found the shirts that he had hoped for so we headed back to the front of the local market for soccer shirts and then all the way back to El Carmen for t-shirts.
Taking a look at my watch, we had quite a bit of time before our pick-up for our tour, so we decided to head over to Hotel Casa Santo Domingo. The young lady at our front desk had told us that the hotel had a museum and ruins within and it was worth making our way there.
At this point, we were a couple of blocks away, so, why not?
Hotel Casa Santo Domingo, a five star hotel, is built within and around the ruins of a cathedral and this forms the basis of a number of museums and art galleries all accessed via the hotel with the one admission price. Though it took some doing to figure out the entrance point, eventually we made our way through hallways until we reached the main lobby and then the grounds… here, we were blown away!
Once the church and convent of Santo Domingo and Santo Tomás de Aquino (Saint Thomas Aquinas) College, there are six museums on the premises in addition to restaurants and the hotel; the Colonial Museum, the Archaeology Museum, the Museum of Pre-Columbian Art and Modern Glass, the Silver Museum, the Pharmacy Museum and the Marco Augusto Quiroa and the Artists Halls.
There were beautiful gardens to walk through and ruins which included the Chapel of the Niches, the Main Cloister and Fountain, the Convent Crypt which contained human remains, the Capitulary Chamber and the Cathedral, which was set up for Easter Sunday Mass.
As we walked around the premises, it was quite surreal to see balconies of hotel rooms and to hear families playing in the adjacent swimming pool.
Around the central courtyard, we watched workers decorate the area around the fountain…using stencils, much like we had just seen at the market, they sprinkled colorful sawdust through the openings, creating unique patterns. This pattern was highlighted with fruits and vegetables, similar to what we had seen at Santuario San Francisco El Grande. Now, it was starting to make sense. Could this be related to the carpets that everyone was talking about?
Leaving Hotel Casa Santo Domingo, we realized that we had just enough time to stop by an awesome little restaurant that we had seen the day before…Antojitos Salvadorenos. Years ago, in Belize, we had papusas for the first time. Over the years, I have made a point of ordering them when available and today was not going to be the exception.
For those who are not familiar with papusas, they are doughy, delicious corn tortillas stuffed with a mixture of meat and cheese and then served with pickled slaw (Curtido) and tangy sauce. This artsy little restaurant, definitely did not disappoint, both price-wise and taste-wise!
Walking quickly, we made it back to our hotel, with just enough time to freshen up and gather what we needed for our volcano hike.
Everything else in Guatemala had so far exceeded our expectations…would the Pacaya volcano do so as well?
To be continued…
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Well, that was me, who basically slept through the earthquake the night before.
I was well rested and ready for our first big day in Antigua…my son, not so much! The earthquake rattled him in more ways than one!
Enjoying a delicious breakfast at our hotel, we then grabbed the necessities and headed out into Antigua’s streets ready to discover everything else there was about this beautiful city.
Our first destination was Cerro de la Cruz (Cross on the Hill). The proprietor of our hotel had shown us pictures and insisted we visit in the morning when the crowds are not as plentiful and the skies are usually clear.
Heading to the other side of town and the road that leads to the overlook, I decided that it would be fun (and less tiresome) to hire a tuk-tuk to take us up the steep drive. Though the tuk-tuk sometimes strained under the precipitous road conditions, we soon pulled into the parking area. Although the driver wanted to wait for us, we sent him on his way as we had already decided to make the hike down after our visit.
The hill provides sweeping views of the city and the magnificent volcano towering over it. In 1930, the famous cross, devoted to the city’s patron saint, was installed on the hill, first created from wood, then later, converted to stone. It is a place where most tourists come to enjoy the views and see the city’s famous landmarks, from above, that they have seen from eye-level. With the city’s grid pattern, it is easy to spot the central Plaza Mayor and make your way around, spotting the Iglesia Merced, the Santa Catalina Arch and many other of Antigua’s monuments amongst the red tiled roofs.
There were a great many vendors selling drinks, snacks and handcrafted items. It was a given that I had to try the shaved ice, something I have loved since I was a child. This one, however, was a bit different from any I have had in the past. After adding the ice to the cup, instead of the usual syrup-y juice usually used, a thick fruit juice was poured in with actual fruit. She then added condensed milk (my fave!) to top it all off! So delicious! It was such a treat to enjoy this local favorite while enjoying the amazing view!
Soon, we decided to hit the trail. Winding downward through the forest, we made our way back down to 1A Avenida. It was startling to see random ruins shadowing everyday life…even a basketball court where teenagers practiced their techniques.
Continuing on our way, we passed colorful buildings, fruit merchants, building decorated for Holy Week, places of business, different modes of transportation and interesting doorways leading to beautiful courtyards. Yes, I was a bit of a voyeur, always peeking in!
Arriving at the gate of the Santuario San Francisco el Grande, we found a hub of activity. Locals selling fruits and nuts lined the wall outside the compound and many vendors filled tents along the inner wall selling candles, handicrafts, clothing and other woven items. Food vendors filled the courtyard and the delicious aroma of typical Guatemalan food filled the air.
Making our way toward the front of the church, it was difficult not to be impressed with its impressive facade. Twisted columns made their way up to the top of the church and carved niches were filled with statues of saints and friars, including the Virgin Mary, San Diego de Alcalá, San Antonio de Padua, San Juan Capistrano, Santa Clara, Santiago, and Santa Isabel from Hungary. The bell and clock towers from the 17th and 19th centuries still remain on the left side of the building, but the right side still exhibits extensive damage from past earthquakes, lending to its mystique.
Since it was Holy Week, many locals entered with us to pray and pay their respects to Santo Hermano Pedro, whose shrine is located within the church. Inside the main part of the church, we found an amazing sight…a long, brightly colored carpet lined with fruits and vegetables, headed by a display depicting a cross-carrying Christ. Unlike anything we had ever seen, we jostled with the crowds to gain a better view of this spectacle.
We learned later that this church is held in very high regard within the city and is used as the starting point of the Calle los Pasos (Steps Street) which holds the Station of the Cross. At three o’clock on Fridays during Lent, with men participating, the statue of Jesus Nazareno is carried on their shoulders from Santuario San Francisco el Grande, stopping at each of the stations and traveling one thousand three hundred and twenty-two steps…exactly the amount Jesus traveled from the praetorian palace to the mount of El Calvario. Women make the same trek on Thursdays during Lent at five o’clock and penance and mass is celebrated after both rituals.
Making our way to the side of the church, we found the tomb of Santo Hermano Pedro (Brother Peter) or Peter of Saint Joseph Betancur, a missionary of Spanish origin who resided in Guatemala. He was beatified in 1980, canonized in 2002 and enshrined at the church. Known as the St. Francis of Assisi of the Americas, he was the founder of the Order of Our Lady of Bethlehem and devoted his life to visiting hospitals, jails and assisting the unemployed and the young. In 1658, he established a hospital for the poor and later a shelter for the poor, a school of the poor, an oratory and an inn for priests. Many miracles have been attributed to Santo Hermano Pedro and a large number of devoted were spied praying to his tomb asking for intercessions.
Walking out of the church, we made our way through the gardens, admiring the shrines, statues, fountains and murals that adorn the area.
Before departing this fascinating religious site, we just stood on the steps for a while and took a look over the entire area. Evident that Holy Week plays such an important part in the lives, the Guatemalans were in a festive spirit and it was a great moment to enjoy their traditional clothing and positive energy.
Heading toward the center of town, we finally went to inspect the Santa Catalina Arch during the daytime hours. Just down the street from La Fonda, where we had dined the night before, we had seen it from afar, lighted as it is during the darkened hours. Today, we wanted to see it lit by the sun. Truly spectacular both ways, it is evident by the throngs of tourists that come here during their visits to take their picture in front of or under the bright yellow span.
One of the most photographed landmarks in the city, it was built in the 17th century and connected the Santa Catalina convent to a school, allowing the cloistered nuns to pass from one building to the other out of public view. During the 1830’s, its beautiful, colonial-era, clock was added to the top, giving it the look that we see today.
Once our photographs were completed, we headed down Avenida Norte, through the arch to our next point of interest, Iglesia de La Merced.
As we approached the beautiful, yellow and white church, we made our way through the festive booths set up for Holy Week, with offerings much like we had seen at Santuario San Francisco el Grande.
Unlike Santuario San Francisco el Grande, however, Iglesia de La Merced appears to be unaffected by earthquakes and has a fascinating architectural history.
When the Mercedarians set out to establish the first convent for men in Ciudad Vieja, their plans were short lived. The convent was wiped out before the construction was complete when a mudslide from the nearby Agua Volcano wiped out the city. The city was relocated to what is now known as Antigua and permission was granted in 1541 for a second church to be built. Forty two years later, the church was finally completed, only to be destroyed by earthquakes. In 1749, architect Juan de Dios Estrada, studied the design failures of the previous architects and set out to adapt traditional baroque designs to survive the instability of the region. Lowering the ceilings, adding thick walls and thicker buttresses made this third church more earthquake resistant and despite the massive earthquake of 1773 (and subsequent earthquakes), the church has remained standing, mostly unaffected.
The facade, flanked by two bell towers, was captivating with its unique stucco work with its Moorish influenced arabesque patterns. Images of the Blessed Virgin Mary of Mercy and other prominent Mercedarians such as St. Pedro Armengol, St. Maria de Cervello and St. Raymundo Nonnatus reside in niches between the elaborately decorated columns and at the top of the church, Pedro Nolasco, the founder of the Order of the Blessed Virgin Mary of Mercy keeps watch on the square below.
At the time of our arrival, the church was not open to visitors and there was much hubbub on the premises as both children and adults entered the convent area, readying themselves for the evening’s Holy Week processions. The convent was open for visitation, however, and we decided that we should not miss out.
Paying our admission, we entered the remains of the convent, making our way to the center where the a large fountain can be admired from both the lower and upper levels. The fountain was designed in the shape of a water lily, a traditional symbol of power for the Mayan people and is said to be the largest in Hispanic America. It is believed that the Mercedarian monks used this fountain to raise fish to supplement their diet.
As we made our way around the courtyard, we took note of the children dressed in the Sunday finest, taking pictures, obviously excited for the upcoming festivities. All around the courtyard, the components of the procession could be spied, ready and waiting for the events to begin.
Making our way up to the top part of the convent, we were amazed at the incredible 360 degree views. All of the nearby volcanoes could be spied, as well as closer views of the bell towers and the city surrounding the church.
Heading eastward from La Merced, our next destination was Santa Teresa de Jesus, a church and convent built between 1677 and 1678 by architect José de Porres for the Discalced Carmelite nuns. As with many of the other religious sites in Antigua, the earthquake of 1717, caused considerable damage to the structure and the earthquake of 1773 resulted in the domes of the convent to collapse.
The Renaissance-styled facade of the church faces Calle Oriente, however, the entrance to the convent, is located around the corner on Alameda Santa Rosa.
A small-scale fountain filled the main courtyard and there were small rooms exhibiting models of the church and convent as it once was and stone carvings rescued from the ruined structures. What we found interesting, when we headed upstairs, however, was that in the United States, if a building was in this condition and had no guard railings and open walls and windows, the building would be considered condemned. Here, you are welcomed in and allowed to walk around at your leisure, inspecting every corner and space. Thankful for this, we took complete advantage and enjoyed our explorations of the convent, discovering that after the destruction from the earthquake, it was abandoned and then occupied by poor families, used as a wine distillery, a place to dry coffee beans and then used as a jail from the 1940’s until 2007.
As the day was coming to a close, we walked by the Mercado de Artesanias El Carmen. The market is adjacent to the old church ruins of El Carmen. Though the ravaged church is not open to visitors, we were able to duck into the market and purchase a few souvenirs.
The last landmark on our itinerary for the day was the Iglesia y Convento de Capuchinas (Church and Convent of the Capuchins), one of the most visited sites in Antigua.
Las Capuchinas, as it is simply known by the locals, is also the nickname of the founding religious order. After the arrival of the Clarissine nuns in Guatemala, they were given approval for construction of the complex from King Phillip V in 1725 with the commencement in 1731. A short five years later, the structure, built in the Renaissance style by architect Diego de Porres, was completed and was the last women’s convent founded in the city.
Today, the convent operates as a tourist attraction and often, a popular wedding venue. As we walked through the main courtyard, we noticed a young girl, bedecked in a flowing gown, awaiting the beginning of her quinceanera, being held on the premises. Those fans of actors Dulé Hill and Jazmyn Symon, might also recognize the convent as the setting of their wedding in May of 2018.
We especially enjoyed the grounds of Las Capuchinas. Though the convent was considered small by comparison to others in the city, with only twenty-five nuns in residence, because of the lavish grounds, I felt as though it was quite larger than the other places we had visited.
The church was accessible to visitors and amazingly still had its roof in place. Though there was not much decoration remaining, it was an amazing space and easy to imagine what it must have looked like during its prime.
Heading to the rear of the complex, we ventured into a circular underground room which historians have speculated was used by the nuns to either store food, practice their singing or pray while walking in circles. A tour guide was present with her clients and we watched as they were instructed to stand on either side of the room and whisper to the wall. Incredibly, the other, so far away, could hear their words! Of course, we had to try!
A circular building at the rear of the property, set among the lavish greenery also caught our attention. Though its purpose was not clear, some have argued that it was designed for spiritual retreats or possibly acted as a chamber for carrying out penance. Other theories advise that it may have been an asylum for older nuns suffering from dementia or even a water storage facility. Within the small archways of this building, there are a couple of displays (complete with mannequin nuns) showing what the nun’s cells might have looked like.
Finally, we made our way back to the main courtyard and climbed to the upper level, looking down on the small fountain which was brought from the former Santa Ines church. The upper level was filled with colorful flowers and had the most serene feeling. No wonder so many choose to exchange their vows here!
As the sun dipped lower in the sky, down past the peaks of the nearby volcanoes, it was time to call it a day. We had seen so many astounding architectural monuments and there was still even more to explore.
More religious processions.
More landmarks.
More Guatemalan delicacies.
Much more Antigua!
Holy Week Procession on Night 2
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Cerro De La Cruz
Address: Antigua Guatemala, Guatemala
Hours: 0800-1800, daily
Admission: free
Getting There: Take 1A Avenida and follow it North. At the base of the inclining hill, you will find the beginning of the hiking trail, marked by a sign welcoming you to Cerro de la Cruz. To your left will be a set of concrete stairs leading into the forest. This is the path that will lead you to the overlook. You can also hire a tuk-tuk for a couple of dollars.
We could hate it…or it could be one of our most memorable trips yet!
One of the best parts of travel is discovering new places and cultures. I find it extremely exhilarating to explore a new city and find out what makes it tick!
What was it about Antigua Guatemala that makes it worthy to have received the distinction of UNESCO World Heritage site in 1979?
Antigua Guatemala means “Old Guatemala” and was the third capital of Guatemala, after earthquakes and uprisings forced the movement of the first two. Located in the central highlands of Guatemala, it is known for its beautifully preserved Spanish Baroque-influenced architecture and the large number of colonial churches ruined during previous years earthquakes.
Laid out in a square pattern, with streets running from north to south and east to west, we found that La Antigua (as it is sometimes referred to) was quite easy to navigate. As we set out onto the cobblestone streets, we passed many buildings that had been damaged during earthquakes. Rather than appearing as eyesores, however, these buildings, including the Antiguo Colegio de la Campaña de Jesús among others, add character to the charming city,
The Antiguo Colegio de la Campaña de Jesús is located next to the Spanish Embassy and was once a Jesuit monastery and college, established in 1626. After the Jesuits were expelled in 1767, the great earthquake that hit six years later, left the unoccupied building in ruins. Though we were unable to venture directly into the main part of the building, the Spanish government, which restored most of the complex, has turned it into a cultural center. Outside, we were able to admire the extravagantly carved (yet mostly headless) statues that grace the facade of the main building, but inside the complex, we were able to enjoy serene courtyards and abundant pieces of artwork on display.
Continuing our journey, we came to the heart of the city, the Plaza Mayor. This central plaza is a gathering spot for locals and visitors and is centered with a fountain. There are large trees that offer shade during the hottest parts of the day and benches to rest and talk. Due to the large number of visitors in town for the Holy Week’s festivities, there were many vendors attempting to peddle their wares and many locals in traditional dress. The perfect spot for people-watching!
Surrounding the square are a large number of restaurants, shops and banks, including the Palacio de los Capitanes Generales, which incorporates the headquarters of the Guatemala Institute of Tourism, the Antigua Tourism Association, the National Police and the Sacatepquez Department government.
Dominating the eastern side of the Plaza Mayor is the Antigua Guatemala Cathedral. The original church, built in 1541, was damaged heavily by many earthquakes over the years. The original church was demolished in 1669 and rebuilt and consecrated in 1680. The largest in Central America at the time, it was filled with precious works of art and housed the remains of Conquistador Pedro de Alvarado and his wife, Beatriz de la Cueva. In 1773, the catastrophic Santa Marta earthquake demolished much of the city and movement of the capital to (what is now known as) Guatemala City, was deemed necessary. This earthquake also seriously damaged most of the cathedral. Belonging to the parish of San Jose, the cathedral’s interior presently only occupies the entrance hall of the original edifice. It is not as richly decorated as I would have imagined, but it was nice to see the stations of the cross and the other holy statues, especially those decked out for Semana Santa.
As we walked out of the back doors into a cemented courtyard, we admired the exterior architecture of not only the cathedral but the buildings surrounding the cathedral. Noticing an entryway, we approached and found that we could investigate the ruins that remain from when the cathedral was demolished by the massive earthquake of 1773. Paying our entry fee, we walked through the remains of this once grand cathedral, mostly open above so that we could glimpse the blue sky. Though it takes a bit of imagination to envision how the cathedral once looked, it was exciting to walk through the structure, examining the ruined chapels and seeing the remains of the carved details atop the columns.
Something we learned was that after the destruction of the
church, it temporarily served as a cemetery.
Many tunnels have been discovered under the cathedral and we were also
able to descend into the South Crypt. A
dark, damp place, there was not much to see, but you can imagine the many souls
that have come to rest here.
In the rear of the remains, we found a work area where many pieces are being restored or placed for safekeeping. Despite the absence of many walls and a ceiling, this cathedral took my breath away for the purity that still remains. Much like visiting the Acropolis in Athens or the Forum in Rome, the detritus of this ancient structure leave much to the imagination, yet take your breath away at the same time.
After leaving the cathedral, we walked past the park once again, heading back to our hotel so that we could spend some time refreshing ourselves for much needed nourishment.
A couple of blocks from our hotel, on the corner of Alameda de Santa Lucia and 5a Calla Poniente, we peered through the gates at what we later learned was the Landivar Monument, dedicated to poet and local, Rafael Landivar. Built in 1953, this monument, erected in a park-like setting, pays tribute to the beloved writer and Jesuit priest who lived from 1731 until 1793. Though we walked by this peaceful place, every day, we never seemed to find the gates unlocked, though we were told that it would be open daily. Content to spy on its tranquility through the iron bars, we decided to save this for a future visit.
After a recommendation from our hotel for dinner, we headed back into the night seeking out the restaurant, La Fonda de la Calle Real, located near the Plaza Mayor. As we approached the park, we learned for the first time what the Santa Semana processions of this small city consisted of.
Hundreds of people lined the street of Poniente, which runs east to west, adjacent to the park. Processing down the street was a lighted, massive, religious, wooden shrine hoisted on the shoulders of a religious guild. Moving and swaying slowly to the melancholy music of the accompanying band, we watched in awe as the barge, complete with life-size effigies of the Virgin Mary and Jesus, passed a few feet from us. Many others marched with the procesiónes, dressed in robes and waving censers clouding the air with the smoke from burned incense.
As a Catholic, it was something to see…inspiring, touching and thrilling all at the same time!
Once the crowds dispersed, we finally headed to La Fonda unequivocally anticipating some delectable Guatemalan cuisine. Seated in a courtyard, open to the night sky, we started with guacamole and then both chose the traditional dish, Suban-iq, chicken, pork and beef slowly cooked in banana leaves, covered in a tomato, chilies and spices sauce. Accompanied by homemade tortillas (being made by a lady near the entryway), the food was delicious and just what we needed after our long day of travel and sightseeing.
Heading back to our hotel, stomachs filled, we eagerly readied ourselves for bed and within seconds, my mind reeling from all that we had experienced so far, I was asleep.
Not for long.
Shaken from my sleep, I sat up and realized that we had experienced our first earthquake! Though I was able to go back to sleep immediately, my son said that there were three or four aftershocks, making him a bit nervous, knowing that there were three nearby volcanoes.
What can I say? All in a days time, we had discovered so much! A new country, a new city, a new culture, new religious traditions, new foods and something entirely new (and a bit scary) to the both of us…an earthquake.
Yes, we were discovering Antigua…and this was only Day One!
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Antiguo Colegio de la Campana de Jesus
Address: H747XQ Antigua, Guatemala
Hours: 1000-1700
Admission: free
Plaza Mayor
Hours: 24 hours
Admission: free
Antigua Guatemala Cathedral
Address: 5a Calle Oriente 5, Antigua Guatemala, Guatemala
Hours: 0900-1700
Admission: Main church, free. Ruins, Q20 (about $3.00 US)
Landivar Monument
Address: Alameda de Santa Lucia, Antigua Guatemala, Guatemala
Picking a place to stay while on vacation can be a complicated affair.
While most people book their accommodations far in advance, those of us who travel at the last minute, make decisions based mostly on availability with some input from friends and colleagues, who may have traveled there before, or from hotel and travel websites listing amenities, location and price. Often, I have booked my hotels while standing in the airplane’s jetbridge, boarding my flight or once I am sitting on my flight enroute (praying that WIFI is working) to my destination.
Regardless of when you have booked your room, however, you never know exactly what you are going to get until you actually get there.
After making the decision to travel to Antigua, Guatemala and learning that we would indeed have a seat on the flight, I booked my hotel from the gate before the embarkation process. Using a widely known hotel-booking site, I based my decision on some of the included pictures and price. A few blocks away from the city-center, this particular hotel didn’t appear to be a far walk and it was adjacent to the artisan market and a grocery store. It was Holy Week in the city and many of the hotel prices were inflated due to the influx of visitors to the city. This hotel, however, was still affordable, even though a little more than I had expected to pay, knowing that Antigua’s lodging prices are usually relatively inexpensive.
After our interesting journey from Guatemala City to Antigua, I wasn’t sure that luck was on our side on the day of our arrival, and I was worried about what we would find waiting for us. When we arrived at a wall with the name of our hotel near a doorway, I wasn’t sure what to think. Pressing the button to alert the staff of our arrival, a small window in the wooden door opened up and a face appeared in the opening.
“Can I help you?”
“Yes, we made a reservation earlier in the day?”
“Of course, we were wondering about your arrival time.”
The large, wooden door was unbolted and opened, allowing our access in to a peaceful courtyard.
There was a soothing fountain to our right as we approached the outdoor, front desk and many tables with umbrellas in the courtyard, where I assumed the included breakfast was served.
After our check-in process was completed, we were then escorted through the another courtyard, again with many tables, into a colorful sitting area. Our room was a few feet away and there was a small sitting area just outside our doorway, as well.
Having upgraded to a room with two beds, our space was decently sized, very modern and extremely clean. The simple white linens were highlighted with a dashes of deep colors and dark-stained, reclaimed wood.
The bathroom was immaculate with tile and colored concrete throughout. The most interesting thing, however, was that near the ceiling on the outside wall, the room was open instead of being vented. Hearing the birds chirp while taking a shower or getting dressed was so refreshing…you just had to remember to keep the door closed so as not to let the coolness from the air conditioner escape.
To the right of the bathroom was a sliding door with a small courtyard. Although we could not look out at the city, it was nice to take a seat here and enjoy a drink in the evening or just peek out at the sky in the morning to see what kind of weather was in store for us.
The staff was extremely kind and quick to assist us with booking a trip to the nearby Pataya volcano and with any questions we had regarding the city’s attractions, eating establishments and our return trip to Guatemala City on our final day.
Though our room was not equipped with a small fridge (something I usually look for), the staff eagerly stored some things that we had purchased at the grocery store that needed refrigeration.
We loved talking to the members of the staff who spoke English and I think that they too enjoyed practicing their linguistics each day.
The best part of this awesome little hotel was the breakfast! Each morning, my son and I would step out into the courtyard and order from the small menu that offered about ten different items, from pancakes to omelets…even papusas! These amazing meals were topped off with freshly squeezed orange juice, coffee and sometimes a cup of a local-type of oatmeal…part drink and part meal…I never quite understood what it was, only that it was delicious, as was everything we consumed here.
Because of the travel with my job, I have become so used to the apathetic approach from the staff of the large hotels that I stay in, that it was so touching to see all of the effort that this hotel put forth to make their guests’ stays enjoyable.
When we decided to stay an extra night, knowing the hotel was full, we began to look around the city to find an alternative. The young lady who worked the front desk during the day, began making calls to confirm the soon-to-be-arriving guests and found that a room had actually become available. Our bags were stored as we left that morning and when we arrived that afternoon, we were shown to our new room, where our bags were waiting for us. This room was appointed much like our first, however, only with one bed but with a small balcony facing the front courtyard on the upper floor.
On our first night, we experienced a small earthquake shortly after retiring for the evening. The owner of the hotel was spotted making his way around, making sure that everything and everyone was okay. Probably suspecting that it was our first earthquake, he made a point of making sure that we were fine the next day. In fact, we came to enjoy our conversations with the owner. A friendly man, he was often spotted speaking with many of the guests while attending to his duties.
On our second day, after seeing one of the first of the Holy Week processions that draw thousands of visitors every year, the evening before, we were inquiring about a schedule for these events. He told me that the evening’s processions would not be arriving near the park until around 9:00 pm. Taking our time to get dressed for dinner, we heard a frantic knock on our door. Opening it, we discovered it to be the owner telling us to “Come quick!” The procession was already heading down our street, much earlier than he had stated that afternoon. Slipping on our shoes and heading out to the corner, with still-wet hair, the owner accompanied us, obviously enjoying our delight in the festivities.
Can I say that this has ever happened to me at another hotel that I have stayed in?
Absolutely not.
My husband, an extremely frequent traveler and a high-status member at a world-wide hotel chain, was amazed to hear my stories of this amazing little hotel. I am quite sure that there are many hotels throughout the world that duplicate this kind of service and I have experienced some that have come close. I must admit, however, that if…no…when I return to Antigua, I will be staying at the Hotel Posada de la Luna again.
I assure you…it will not feel like returning to just another hotel.
It will definitely feel like returning home.
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Spying a church steeple down the street while walking back from the East Side Gallery in Berlin, I found my feet turning automatically in that direction.
Not wanting to miss something good, even though I was trying to make it back to my hotel for my dinner plans, I thought, “Just a quick look“.
Though the church’s interior wasn’t open for inspection, I did learn quite a bit about the property from the signboards posted at the front and back of the church’s property.
This was more than a church…this was about an entire square.
Architect August Soller, whose grave can be spied at St. Michael’s, was tapped to design the city’s third oldest Roman Catholic church. With plans completed in 1845, construction commenced six years later with much influence from Soller’s travels in Italy; mainly churches in Padua and Venice. So, when you spy St. Michael’s, as it was originally meant to be seen, with its view beyond the water feature (the remains of the Luisenstadt Canal) its conception from Venice’s churches along their waterways can be understood, as I was about to discover.
Completed in 1861, St. Michael’s served as a garrison church for Catholic soldiers due to its location near the border between Berlin-Mitte locality and Kreuzberg and was established by King Frederick William IV. After damage during World War II, it was partially reconstructed in the 1950’s. Now protected as a historical monument in Berlin, you can still see the wounds it sustained during the “Bombing of Berlin”, as you walk around the exterior of the church.
Though the church’s original walls and dome remain, the roof and the interior, including its organ, was destroyed. As I stood before the church’s entrance, it was amazing to be able to see the surviving dome through the portal window below the bell tower. Beneath the window is a mosaic depicting the Annunciation which surprisingly survived the bombing along with the church’s facade and entrance.
Long before the church’s completion, an idea to build a waterway through Luisenstadt was conceived. The idea was shelved until 1840, when the King of Prussia made the decision that a canal should connect the Landwehrkanal and the River Spree to reduce travel on the latter. With construction beginning in 1948, the first ship sailed along the waterway, passing St. Michael’s church in 1952, before turning at Engelbecken, the canal basin.
Despite the King’s determination in fulfilling the canal project, many years later, in 1926, the decision to fill in the Luisenstädt Canal was made due to noise, odor and lack of use. The Engelbecken, was then developed as a park under the guidance of landscape architect Erwin Barth. Though Barth’s main desire was to keep the canal, an idea not popular with the city’s government, he finally succeeded in developing the Engelbecken, surrounded by a green space. The canal basin became the Angel’s pool, a pond for swans surrounded by gardens.
Making my way across the Michaelkirchplatz, I stood on the raised viewing platform, anxious for a better look at the church, however, looking down at the Angel’s pool and the adjacent garden’s I anxiously searched for the steps leading to the area.
Cafe Am Engelbecken sits at the canal’s original water level, a relaxing spot to take in an afternoon tea or aperitif. Walking along the pool, lined with hedges and greenery, I glanced across at the picturesque and precise buildings which spread out along the perimeter. Pergolas hover above the path, awaiting the new growth of the warmer weather and I could only imagine how beautiful my walk would be during the summer when the Virginia creeper, climbing ross and clematis cling tightly to the structures. Arriving at the far end of the pool, it was then that I understood Soller’s idea of St. Michael’s position on a waterway, much like the Venetian churches.
This is the best view of St. Michael’s church!
The rose gardens, destroyed by the construction of the Berlin Wall, were excavated in 1993 by the Berlin Historic Gardens Conservation and a path runs down past the Oranienplatz between both Legiendamm and Leuschnerdamm. The path is highlighted by the Indische Brunnen, an eastern-style fountain also called the Hindu Springs. Although I exited at Oranienplatz, the path continues all the way down to Böcklerpark.
My detour to St. Michael’s church was definitely worth the eventual mad dash to my dinner plans. Very interested to learn about its and the surrounding area’s history, I now have another mission to see the interior of this historic church, which probably will not warrant, just a quick look!
I’m blocking off the whole afternoon!
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Some of the best views of Zurich can be found from Lindenhof Hill.
Lindenhof’s lofty location, atop the remains of a glacier, made it the prime location for the Roman’s to build a citadel during the years of Valentinian. This fortification was used as a line of defense against migration from the North by the Alamanni. Outfitted with ten towers and thick, two meter wide walls, it eventually became the fortification of the historical center of Zurich, rising twenty-five meters above the Limmat River.
Over the years, many other types of construction were situated on the hill, including a chapel and a royal residence. Graves of late medieval children and adults were also found in 1937 by archaeologists.
Finally, with the demolition of the royal residence, the hill became the only public park within the city walls, where residents met and bow and crossbow shooting were practiced. A variety of trees and plants were instilled in the park and in 1688, the Hedwig Fountain, sculpted by Gustav Siber, which depicts the legend of the siege of Zurich (1292), was erected in the park.
In 1851, the Masons purchased the adjacent Paradies building and converted it into a lodge. In 1865, the park was redesigned and chestnut and acacia trees introduced. The local population was not happy with its new look and in 1900, the park was given its present appearance.
Today, the park is a popular meeting spot and the location where numerous public events and festivals are held. Some of the best views of the city can be had here so on any given day, a large number of tourists can be found in the park, enjoying the beautiful Swiss buildings and clear river below.
The adjacent streets are closed to automotive traffic and it is a short walk to the church of St. Peter’s and the Fraumunster from Lindenhof Hill.
If you are new to visiting to visiting the city and want to first get your bearings, take a hike up the hill to Lindenhof park. You can get a lay of the land and then take the short walk to the other landmarks of the city.
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A couple of years ago, I visited the Fraumünster, one of Zurich’s four main churches. One of the city’s highlights, it boasts windows by Marc Chagall and a rose window by Augusto Giacometti. It is a historic site visited by thousands each year.
As much as I enjoyed my visit to the historic church, however, what is just next door to the Fraumünster is what is really the what visitors should come for!
Fraumünster
Recently, a friend and I were walking past the Fraumünster, admiring its blue clock tower spire and carvings on the outer walls. Just past the church, we came to a gate and what appeared to be a cloister. Venturing inside, we discovered, that this was indeed the cloister from the ancient abbey.
The cloister was built at the end of the 12th century and moved to the present location in the 19th century. The Fraumünster church, next door, was built over the remains of the monastery around 1250.
As compelling as is a visit to the Fraumünster, it is the peaceful cloister’s origins that I found fascinating. In 853, King Ludwig of Germany’s two daughters, Bertha and Hildegard, lived in Baldern castle, high above the city. The extremely pious sisters would make their way down through the dark forest to the Grossmünster to spend time in prayer each morning and worship before the relics of Saints Felix, Regula and Exuperantius. Legend has it, however, that one day, the sisters encountered a stag with burning antlers in the darkened forest that led them down to the River Limmat across from the Grossmünster. After the encounter repeated itself many times, the sisters finally understood that it was a sign from God urging them to oversee the construction of a religious sanctuary for women at the edge of the river. King Ludwig was persuaded by his daughters to begin the fabrication and eventually appointed his daughters as the first abbesses.
This is the Legend of the Deer With the Lighted Horns and the fresco depicting this story can be spotted in the cloister along with many other amazing scenes painted by Swiss artist Paul Bodmer between 1924 and 1934.
Only a few other tourists walked through the cloister with its small central garden, flanked by two corridors, covered by beautiful Gothic arches. Other murals depicted the figures of Felix and Regula the patron saints of Zurich who are buried in the crypt beneath the Fraumünster and distinctive facial carvings can be spotted throughout the space on walls and atop columns.
A simple memorial was installed in the cloister on March 14, 2004 to honor Katharina von Zimmern, the last abbess of the Fraumünster Abbey. Created by sculptor Anna-Maria Bauer, the memorial consists of thirty-seven copper blocks layered into a compact square referring to the shape of an altar. There is also an engraved banner on the floor which states Die Stadt vor Unruhe und Umgemach bewahren und tun, was Zürich lieb und dienlich ist (to save the city from restlessness and surroundings and to do what is lovely and useful) referring to Von Zimmern’s handing over the convent to the reformation, thus stopping further bloodshed.
It was the legend of the deer, however, that kept bringing me back to inspect the murals more closely. What was it about Zurich and deer? There is another legend, involving King Ludwig’s grandfather, Emperor Charlemagne that tells how a stag led him to the graves of Saints Felix and Regula, but it was thinking back to a visit to Uetliberg, some time ago and remembering the large sculptural deer with lighted antlers lining the pathways. I had loved these strange tiled beacons, which represent what is an important part of Zurich’s history.
Whatever brings you to the Fraumünster’s cloister…be it the murals, the history, the tranquility or even the Legend of the Deer…know that you’ve stumbled across something extremely extraordinary!
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After visiting Zurich’s Predigerkirche, I was on a quest to make it to the last of the city’s four major churches that I had not visited before the end of the day.
The Church of St. Peter’s.
Problem was, there were so many photos to take in the beautiful Neumarkt area that I kept getting sidetracked!
Finally, crossing the river, it was easy to find the oldest parish church in Zurich. Standing on the former site of an ancient Roman temple to the god Jupiter, the church’s clock tower is said to be the largest in Europe and can be spied from most locations within the city. With a clock face measuring almost nine meters in diameter, it is an amazing site to behold!
Arriving at the church, we discovered, as did other tourists arriving at the same time, that the entrance was opposite of where we thought.
Making our way down the stairs, through the alley and back up another set of stairs, we finally found a courtyard with some interesting art pieces. Not even convinced that this was the entrance, we made our way inside to discover what makes this church interesting.
In 1345, the church was acquired by the city’s first mayor, Rudof Brun. His grave and monument can be seen by the outer tower wall. The first pastor, Leo Jud, served from 1523 until 1542 and contributed to the first translation of the Bible in Zurich. The church’s second pastor, J.C. Lavater, served from 1778 until 1801 and was so popular that people reserved seats for Sunday mass. His gravestone is in the courtyard, to the left of the entrance, on the church wall.
As I walked into the church, I noticed immediately the similarities between St. Peter’s and the Predigerkirche. The first church in Zurich that was built as a Protestant place of worship, after the Reformation during the eighth century, St. Peter’s exhibits the same elegant, simplicity although its tower and choir date back from a Romanesque church built in 1230.
During the Middle Ages, the short spire windows of the tower was the home of the town watchman, whose duty was to look out of the windows every fifteen minutes for signs of fire. Should a fire be spotted, he would sound an alarm and hang a flag out of the window facing the fire. Since Zurich, unlike so many other cities, never endured a major fire, the system worked well.
As I walked through the interior of the church, I took note of the three-aisled Baroque nave and the Romanesque choir that still contains some faded medieval murals. Above the pulpit, the name of God in Hebrew can be spotted, reflecting the Reformation emphasis on the original biblical languages. Another important feature of the church is the original 9th century foundation walls which can still be seen beneath the chancel.
In addition, St. Peter’s contains a baptismal font, dating back to 1598 and richly carved choir chairs from the 15th century. These chairs were transported to the church from the suppressed convents of the city. Make sure to take a look upward at the beautiful crystal chandeliers and the wood paneled gallery.
Even though, I initially thought that St. Peter’s was so very like the Predigerkirche, I learned from my visit that this church had a much richer history and much more to discover in its interior.
If you are taking a stroll through the streets of Zurich, take a look upward, find the largest clock tower and head that way! Its worth the visit!
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