You don’t see many in your everyday life except in certain areas of the country.
While visiting Gettysburg, I learned of the Sachs Covered Bridge. Located not far from the battlefields and President Eisenhower’s home, it was built in 1852 by David Stoner. Spanning one hundred feet over the nearby Marsh Creek, it is considered Pennsylvania’s most historic bridge and was listed in 1980 on the National Register of Historic Places.
So, what makes the bridge so special…besides its beautiful deep crimson hue and tranquil setting? It was used by both Union and Confederate Troops during the Battle of Gettysburg in 1863. Pedestrian traffic is only allowed across the lattice bridge and it is frequented by ghost hunters on a nightly basis. Many ghostly encounters have been witnessed here, so visit at your own risk!
Heading southwest, I encountered the G. Donald McLaughlin Bridge. Also called the Jacks Mountain Bridge, it is the only covered bridge in Adams County that you can still drive through. Located near Fairfield, it was constructed in 1890 using the traditional Burr truss and spans seventy five feet over Tom’s Creek.
It was quite interesting waiting for the traffic light to turn green to control traffic through the bridge. Though I wanted to drive slowly to absorb the experience, it was quite a busy road and I did not want to inconvenience other drivers who probably tire of onlookers. After crossing the bridge to the southern side, I was able to pull off and capture a few photos.
Continuing my journey southward, I crossed into the state of Maryland. Just off of Route 15, I began my search for the three covered bridges that span various tributaries in Frederick County.
Roddy Road Covered Bridge was built in 1856 and lies just north of Thurmont, Maryland. It is the smallest bridge and located adjacent to a children’s park. The bridge is open to car traffic but you can pull over to the left side of the road to take pictures or walk across between the intermittent traffic.
Not far away, I found Loys Station Covered Bridge in Rocky Ridge. If you are looking to make an experience out of visiting this bridge, this is the perfect place! Built in 1880, you can still spot pieces of its original timber as you carefully walk across the bridge, still open to car traffic. On the south side of Owen’s Creek, Loys Station Park is a great place to park, picnic or fish along the banks of the creek. It is a great area to take children to play on the playground equipment while checking out this magnificent piece of architecture.
Finally, with a little bit of driving through the countryside, I located the Utica Road Covered Bridge. Built in 1834, it originally crossed the Monocacy River until 1889 when it was washed away by a storm. Reconstructed, it was moved to its current location across Fishing Creek. Located near Lewistown, it is listed on the National Register of Historic Places.
As the evening came to a close, I scanned my map for of these exceptional landmarks. There were a few more…just much further than daylight would allow!
If you are in the great states of Pennsylvania or Maryland, set out on a unique adventure to see these historic spans that have stood the test of time. Afteral, it is uncertain how much time they have left…
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Sachs Covered Bridge
Address: Waterworks Road, Gettysburg, PA 17325
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free
Getting There: Sachs Covered Bridge sits in the southwestern corner of Gettysburg National Military Park. The bridge is located at the end of a short dirt road off of Pumping Station Road.
G. Donald McLaughlin Bridge
Address: 299-231 Jacks Mountain Road, Fairfield, PA 17320
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free
Getting There: Jacks Mountain Covered Bridge is located just off of Route 116 on Jacks Mountain Road near Fairfield.
Roddy Road Covered Bridge
Address: 14760 Roddy Road Thurmont, MD 21788
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free
Loys Station Covered Bridge
Address: 13506 Old Frederick Road, Rocky Ridge, MD 21778
Though Gettysburg is known for its battlefields, there are many historic buildings and beautiful architecture throughout the city that should be investigated.
After a long day spent driving through the battlefields, I decided to check out some of the historic sites in the city. Though most were closed due to Covid 19 restrictions, I was able to photograph the exteriors and imagine the famous people that once walked here and the stories that emanated from the battles in the area.
One of the stateliest sites in the city is the Gettysburg train station. It was here that President Abraham Lincoln arrived when invited to say a few appropriate remarks at the dedication of the Soldiers’ National Cemetery. These remarks resulted in one of the most historic speeches in our nation’s history, the Gettysburg Address. The station was restored in 2006 and offers a self-guided tour featuring exhibits and artifacts relating to Lincoln and the railroad’s role in the history of Gettysburg.
Nearby is the Majestic Theater. Opened on November 14, 1925, the theater welcomed audiences to vaudeville and silent movies. Seating 1,200 patrons, it was built by Henry Scharf as an annex to the historic Gettysburg Hotel. Visited often by former President Dwight D. Eisenhower and First Lady Mamie Eisenhower, the theater also achieved acclaim for its premier of major movies including Federico Fellini’s Satyricon in 1970 and Ted Turner’s Gettysburg in 1993. Since its restoration in 2005, the theater has once again welcomed audiences to be seated in its original grandeur.
Around the corner and connected to the Majestic Theater is the Gettysburg Hotel. Though this would have been my choice of accommodations for my stay, I discovered that this historic hotel was closed until next summer as they are assisting with the housing of students from the University of Gettysburg. Centrally located in Lincoln Square, it is in close proximity to many wonderful eating establishments, shopping and historic buildings and is only a three-minute drive to Gettysburg National Military Park. Dating back to 1797, when it opened as a tavern, it has a rich history and is reported to be haunted by a few spirits including a Civil War nurse named Rachel, a wounded soldier and a dancing woman in the hotel’s ballroom.
Across the street is the David Wills House. Abraham Lincoln was a guest of David Wills here on November 18 and 19, 1863. David Wills was an attorney and superintendent of Adam’s County Schools, President of the Gettysburg Borough Council in 1872 and an Adams County Judge, as well as serving on the board of directors of the Bank of Gettysburg and the Gettysburg Railroad Company among others. Though his host was a very prominent citizen, I was uncertain why the President would not have stayed in one of the finer rooms at the Gettysburg Hotel, however, it was here that he met with Governor Curtin and completed his Gettysburg Address. The museum was closed during this time, however, I made sure to take a picture with the statue of our great President (with a statue of a tourist) outside on the sidewalk.
A short walk from the David Wills House on Baltimore Street is the Adams County Courthouse, built in 1859 to replace the original courthouse originally located in the town square. Used as a hospital following the Battle of Gettysburg, it is now included on the National Register of Historic Places. The original courtroom was in use from 1859 to 1979 and contains tromp d’oiel frescoes painted by George Seiling in 1859. Today, that courtroom is only used for ceremonial purposes.
Across the street, you can spot the Adams County Library with its own statue of Abraham Lincoln. Installed in 2014, the bronze statue sits atop a base containing the inscription of the Gettysburg Address and commemorates our President and the historic speech.
As always, I had hoped to check out some of the nearby churches, however, I found them all to be locked. St. Francis Xavier Church was first on my list. Standing on the portico, I found a summation of its history. Built in 1853, the church served as a field hospital during and after the Battle of Gettysburg.
Crossed the street, I found the Memorial Episcopal Church of the Prince of Peace. The first Episcopal Church was established in 1747, with the actual church being consecrated in 1836. It is known for a stained-glass window which depicts Christ with the Children.
Hopping back in my car, I headed north on Baltimore Street towards the beautiful campus of Gettysburg College. Established in 1832, by anti-slavery theologian Samuel Simon Schmucker, as Pennsylvania College, it stood in the way of the immense battle between the north and the south. The college’s Pennsylvania Hall became a hospital for hundreds of soldiers from both the Confederate and Union armies. In honor of its alumni David Wills, who hosted President Lincoln in his home, tradition has it that each fall, first year students recreate the procession through town to hear an honored guest read the Gettysburg Address. The school is also known for its Civil War programs. The campus is quite lovely and contains its own statue of Lincoln, seated in front of Stevens Hall, signing the Emancipation Proclamation.
There are many beautiful homes and businesses throughout the city, and I would have loved to have seen them all. Though getting around Gettysburg is quite easy, there was still so much to see in the nearby areas, and I was determined to make the most of my time. If you make your way to Gettysburg, make the most of your time and check out its architectural gems.
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I had no idea who this was and why she would have a house named after her in Gettysburg, so I pulled into the parking lot, went inside and discovered an incredible story.
Embarking on the self-guided tour, I was first given an introduction by one of the staff appropriately dressed in period attire. At the entrance door, I was shown the bullet holes that both made Jennie Wade a notable name and ended her life.
As the Confederate troops were descending upon Gettysburg from the north and the Union troops from the south, the dwelling of Georgia McClellan, Jennie’s sister, was caught between the two armies in what was called “No Man’s Land”.
Unable to leave the city, as her sister was due to deliver a child and her mother ill, she was determined to make the best of the dangerous situation. During that summer, Jennie did what she could to keep up with the demand for bread and water and medical care for the troops. While standing in the kitchen, baking biscuits, the armies began firing upon each other, striking the house multiple times. One of the bullets pierced two doors, striking Jennie and killing her instantly where she stood in the kitchen. Although almost 50,000 soldiers were killed during the three day battle, Jennie became Gettysburg’s only civilian fatality.
As the guide left me, I made my way into the house, entering the kitchen. In front of the small table, I stood in the same spot where Jennie took her last breath. Sadly, there are still traces of Jennie’s blood on the floorboards and the kitchen was left mostly as it was on the day of her death.
The house is authentically furnished and it was easy to transport myself back to that time and imagine how it must have felt to go about one’s daily life while a war was waging outside the door.
Before I followed the the directions in the pamphlet given to me by the guide, I noticed a sign on the ill-fated door. Apparently, legend has it that if an unmarried girl puts her ring finger through the bullet hole in the door, she will receive a proposal of marriage within a year. There was even a letter from a happy couple, one of many received by the staff.
Entering the front room, I discovered that although it was probably originally slated to serve as a parlor, it served as Jennie’s sister’s room, fitted with a colorfully outfitted bed, small writing desk, cradle and fireplace. After careful inspection, I discovered a bullet hole from ammunition that pieced one of the bedposts.
Making my way up the rear staircase, I discovered two large bedrooms which made up the length of the house. Interestingly, there was a hole in the center wall which allowed access to the adjacent home. Just before that ill-fated day, an artillery shell had entered the home through the roof, knocking out the wall and this was the way Jennie’s body was removed from the home.
McClellan Upstairs
Walking through the ravaged partition, I made my way into the home next door, which belonged to the McClain family. Decorated with much finer furnishings, it was laid out in much the same way as the McClellan house except for the parlor remaining as it was originally designated. The large display cabinet contains many artifacts which include, envelopes addressed to Jennie from her suitor, Jack, a photo of Jennie, the 10 pound parrot shell which struck the house on July 2, 1863, a letter describing the shell and the floorboard where Jennie fell.
McClain BedroomMcClain KitchenMcClain Parlor
Exiting the home, the directions led me to the cellar. It wasn’t until later while looking back at my photos that I realized that it displayed a re-creation of the viewing of Jennie’s body under the quilt at the end of the room. Thankfully, I did not realize it at the time…this was very creepy in a town known for ghosts! Finally, ending my tour in the gift shop, I found many souvenirs and collectibles that keep the memory of Jennie alive. The staff in the giftshop were extremely helpful with additional information and provided me with a map of Evergreen Cemetery, where Jennie Wade’s grave can be found.
Off I went, in search of Jennie.
The Evergreen Cemetery, built in 1854, is adjacent to the National Cemetery and is part of Gettysburg Battlefield Historic District. Experiencing three days as a battlefield, it was destroyed and desecrated. Graves were run down and monuments destroyed.
Evergreen Cemetery Entrance
Headstones destroyed during the Battle of Gettysburg
Today, it is immaculately kept and many notable citizens are interred here. Two Confederate soldiers are buried in the cemetery and some tombstones still display battle damage. The most famous person, however, is Jennie Wade. Located near the front of the graveyard, hers is a tall monument, topped with a statue. Her tombstone states, “Killed July 3, 1863 while making bread for the Union soldiers”.
Jennie Wade’s Resting Place
That’s who Jennie Wade was.
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Many soldiers gave their lives in the Battle of Gettysburg.
The battlefield’s landscape is dotted with numerous monuments which commemorate the Union and Confederate troops that fought there. More monuments can be found at the National Cemetery, which together with the battlefield form the Gettysburg National Military Park. Though many of dead soldiers’ souls may still roam the battlefield, it is there, in the cemetery, that you are reminded of who they were from their headstones.
After the Battle of Gettysburg, the toll on both sides consisted of the loss or mortal wounding of 10,000 lives, 30,000 injuries and 10,000 soldiers captured or missing. Because of the mass casualties, most of the deceased soldiers were hastily buried in shallow graves, marked by their names scrawled on wooden crosses. Exposure to the elements began to cause the erosion of the impromptu graves and it was determined that there was an immediate need for proper burials.
The decision was made to build a cemetery, using the site from which the Union center repulsed Pickett’s Charge, and ground was broken four months after the battle on October 27, 1863. Union soldiers were relocated to the cemetery and efforts were eventually made to move the Confederate soldiers’ remains to Virginia, Georgia and the Carolinas, although there are a few that remain in Gettysburg National Cemetery.
Having been to Hollywood Cemetery in Richmond, Virginia, I have seen the graves of these Confederate soldiers. I was anxious to walk around the historic cemetery in Gettysburg to observe any similarities, but I also knew that the Gettysburg National Cemetery was famous for more than gravesites, markers and monuments. There is something that makes this cemetery stand apart from landmarks in the city and other Civil War cemeteries.
On November 19, 1863, at the cemetery’s dedication, President Abraham Lincoln stood among these departed souls and delivered a two-minute address about the sacrifices of war and the necessity of holding the Union together.
The Gettysburg Address.
Four score and seven years ago our fathers brought forth on this continent, a new nation, conceived in Liberty, and dedicated to the proposition that all men are created equal.
Now we are engaged in a great civil war, testing whether that nation, or any nation so conceived and so dedicated, can long endure. We are met on a great battle-field of that war. We have come to dedicate a portion of that field, as a final resting place for those who here gave their lives that that nation might live. It is altogether fitting and proper that we should do this.
But, in a larger sense, we can not dedicate — we can not consecrate — we can not hallow — this ground. The brave men, living and dead, who struggled here, have consecrated it, far above our poor power to add or detract. The world will little note, nor long remember what we say here, but it can never forget what they did here. It is for us the living, rather, to be dedicated here to the unfinished work which they who fought here have thus far so nobly advanced. It is rather for us to be here dedicated to the great task remaining before us — that from these honored dead we take increased devotion to that cause for which they gave the last full measure of devotion — that we here highly resolve that these dead shall not have died in vain — that this nation, under God, shall have a new birth of freedom — and that government of the people, by the people, for the people, shall not perish from the earth. —Abraham Lincoln, November 19, 1863
As I entered the gates on Taneytown Road, I immediately came upon the podium which was erected for visiting presidents who attend memorial ceremonies. To the right, is Lincoln’s Gettysburg Address Memorial.
The memorial is a semicircular stone monument which includes a bronze bust of the president, sculpted by Henry K. Bush-Brown, and two tablets on either side, one of which highlights the short speech. Though many think that such a profound address would have been inked on many pages, one of the greatest highlights of American history was only ten sentences long.
Though the memorial commemorates the Lincoln and the Gettysburg Address, the location of the great oration actually took place about three hundred yards from this spot, so I headed in that direction determined to find where it took place.
The cemetery is designed as a wide semi-circle with the Soldier’s National Monument at its center. Radiating from the monument are sections divided by state; smaller states closest to the monument and larger states along the outside. The Soldier’s National Monument, designed by the Batterson-Canfield Company is a mighty granite shaft rising from a four cornered pedestal and bearing sculptures crafted by Randolph Rogers representing war, history, plenty and peace. Glancing to the top of the shaft is the statue, “Genius of Liberty”, crowning its peak. The monument is notable as being near the location of the dais of the dedication ceremony where Lincoln delivered the Gettysburg Address. Numerous smaller monuments also dot the cemetery’s landscape, including a memorial to the Union soldiers of New York and a monument to Major General John F. Reynolds.
Soldier’s National MonumentMemorial to the Union soldiers of New York and Monument to Major General John F. Reynolds
As I made my way around the grand monument and then the remainder of the cemetery, I encountered impeccable funerary grounds, maintained by the National Park Service, with a landscape dotted with cannons, concrete pathways and marble headstones.
As I reverently made my way through the premises, I discovered that although the majority of the graves accommodate the remains of Union Soldiers, the government later added sections for veterans from the Spanish-American War, World Wars I and II, the Korean War and the Vietnam War, bringing the total of veterans that are laid to rest here to more than 6,000.
When I first entered the grounds, the rain which had started during my tour of the battlefield had slowed to a hazy mist. The gloaming of the late afternoon, in addition, added to the sobering realization of just what I was surrounded by.
Not only is it a place where a speech of great magnitude was articulated by one of the greatest men in our country’s history, but it is a place where immeasurable bravery and patriotism was laid to rest. It is a place where we were reminded by President Lincoln why our great country was worth fighting for. A hallowed ground…not only for the lives lost, but the lives that continued and still continue on.
In this election year, it is important to remember the vision of our founding fathers, the lives that were given to bring our country to where it is today and to enjoy the freedoms that we have been given.
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Covered bridges are a source of fascination for many and there are a few located in the southern Pennsylvania and northern Maryland areas. One, in particular, is located in Gettysburg near the battlefields and was used by both Union and Confederate soldiers.
In addition to my explorations of the Gettysburg battlefields, I had anticipated side trips into the countryside to each of these.
After leaving the Eisenhower home, however, I passed by an old trestle bridge. There were a few people standing on the bridge, which was closed to traffic, and I thought that it might be a good photo opportunity.
Parking and exiting my car, I made my way through the overgrowth on the road’s shoulder onto the bridge. A plaque on the left, identified it as the John Eisenhower bridge and one on the right, displayed details of its builders, Gilbert & Smith, and the date of its completion, 1886.
The bridge was in a state of decomposition and it’s position being infringed upon by creeping vines and weeds. Nevertheless, it was nice to observe the rushing, clear water beneath and listen to the birds chirping in the trees.
Only staying a few minutes, I hopped back on the road to complete my battlefield tour.
It was a bit later that evening, that I learned from my waiter, that the John Eisenhower bridge has been dubbed the “Suicide Bridge”. Now, there are many haunted sites throughout Gettysburg, some I knew about, however, I was curious about this one.
A little digging left me without any further knowledge about the bridge’s history but the idea that this is a paranormal hot spot, thought to be frequented by ghosts from those that have ended their lives here by hanging. Many ghost tours take you to this location, their guests hoping to see a ghostly apparition or experience energy from the other side.
I can tell you that had I known this earlier, I might have been a little apprehensive about spending time in this location. To be fair, however, it was broad daylight and didn’t seem so creepy.
Now, nighttime is another thing and I hear that many people head there during the dead of night, hoping to capture some sort of eerie phenomenon!
Where does a President of the United States go for some downtime?
For President Truman, it was Key West, Florida. For President George W. Bush, it was Kennebunkport, Maine.
For President Dwight D. Eisenhower, it was his home in Gettysburg.
Tucked away near the historic Gettysburg Battlefield, is the former home of President Eisenhower, which served the president and the first lady as a weekend retreat to escape the stresses of city and presidential life. Though both preferred to leave their responsibilities in Washington D.C., sometimes they brought some of it with them by having some of the world’s leaders as guests at their retreat.
Having purchased the home in 1950 for their retirement, General Eisenhower had to vacate the premises soon after to assume command of the North Atlantic Treaty Organization in Europe. During their absence, friends took over the maintenance and daily operations of the farm.
Two years later, Eisenhower, back in the United States, was elected President. Though his primary residence became the White House, he and his wife, Mamie visited their farm as often as possible with the President taking a hands-on approach when on site. So enthralled with the success of his farm, he received one of the most personally meaningful awards of his lifetime. The first, “Honorary Master Farmer” was bestowed upon the President in July 1963.
Set amidst the fields and mountains of Gettysburg, the home was perfect for Mamie and Ike with its large kitchen, eight bedrooms, nine bathrooms, stately living room, formal dining room, glassed-in porch and 495 acres. Today, the home still retains most of its original furnishings and during regular times, tours offer an intimate look into the life and times of the President and the First Lady.
Because of Covid 19 restrictions, the Eisenhower Home and Reception Center are closed, however, the grounds of Eisenhower National Historic Site are open and visitors may drive themselves instead of taking the bus service from the Gettysburg Visitor’s Center.
Reception Center
Though I would have loved to have taken a peek inside the presidential home, to get a glimpse of the First Lady’s very pink bathroom, the bedroom where Indian Prime Minister Nehru stayed during his visits, the President’s office and the many gifts of State, I had to be content to wander the grounds and only imagine what lay behind the drawn curtains.
Nevertheless, the grounds were well maintained and it was easy to follow the path around the 4100 square foot, Georgian-style house, which also boasts a barn with an attached office designated for the Secret Service, a reception center, a greenhouse and a tea house. There was a putting green behind the house where the President spent many hours perfecting his game and a helipad so that the he could come and go on his own schedule.
Secret Service Office Attached to the Milking BarnGreenhouseTea HouseThe President’s Putting Green
As you drive onto the grounds, you will spot the barns and sheds where the President’s prized herds were cared for. Though I noticed a path leading to these areas, it was not clear whether visitors were allowed during these uncertain times.
Standing behind the house, I reveled in the quiet and beautiful scenery all around me. I had only encountered one other set of visitors at the beginning of my self-guided tour and realized why the President made it a point to take a leave from the city and his responsibilities so often.
With so much peace and beauty all around, if I were the leader of the free world, I would have too! But Key West might be a better choice for me!
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As a believer in the paranormal, some of my favorite television shows are about ghosts!
The ones pertaining to ghost hunting captivate my interest because these paranormal researchers visit some of the most haunted places in the world and the United States. One Saturday night, I remember watching an episode which highlighted Gettysburg Battlefield and the apparitions that inhabit the once bloody battlefields. I was intrigued! Knowing that Gettysburg was only a few hours away, I vowed to take a road trip one day.
Many years passed and there never seemed to be enough time to squeeze that trip in between my work and personal travels. I had been all over the world…Greece, Vietnam, Paris…you name it…but I had yet to fulfill this one seemingly small visit to the nearby state.
This year, amidst the Covid 19 restrictions, I found myself with more spare time than I could have ever imagined. Because I could not get to my job easily, I was forced to take a leave for a few months. At first, it was quite difficult to be home so much more than I was accustomed. Nothing was open, so I found myself quite bored. Eventually, however, things began to reopen and I decided that even if I couldn’t travel with my job to the international places that I was used to, I could still try and visit the many attractions in my state and the ones nearby.
One day, I packed my suitcase and decided that it was the day…the day to finally visit Gettysburg and maybe some of its ghosts!
After a quick visit to the national park website, I gathered the information needed for a successful trip, arrived in record time and checked into my hotel. Deciding to purchases tickets to explore the visitor’s center, which I felt was a necessity, I then elected to skip the tour bus (and crowds), download the Gettysburg Battle Auto Tour and do it myself!
Arriving at the opening time, I said hello to a “socially distancing” Abe Lincoln and made my way through the Visitor’s Center, taking my place in line for my time slot for the film, A New Birth of Freedom. Along with the Gettysburg Museum of the Civil War, the film and the museum’s exhibits gave me the background of the events that led to the brutal three-day Battle of Gettysburg, fought between the Union and Confederate soldiers in June 1863. A major turning point in the Civil War, this battle saw more than 51,000 Americans killed, wounded or missing, most under General Robert E. Lee’s command. The museum contained a great deal of information of events that led up to the war, the war itself and the conditions that dictated the soldier’s lives. There were old photographs, soldiers’ uniforms, musical instruments ammunitions, letters, flags and a tribute to the ones that gave their lives for the cause that they believed in. Protected under glass, I spotted letters from Abraham Lincoln and headlines from his death in 1865. One of the most interesting exhibits, however, were the wooden ceiling joists taken from Gettysburg resident, John Forney’s farm. Hanging above our heads, you could see where a single artillery projectile pierced what once supported his house.
Though I was not sure what the Cyclorama would entail, after the film, I followed the crowds up the escalators to the upper level. The 360 degree painting, by artist Paul Philippoteaux, that surrounded us, depicted Pickett’s Charge, the Confederate attack on the Union forces on July 3, 1863. Once the equivalent of an IMAX theater, the life sized painting, which took over a year and a half to complete, was originally displayed with numerous artifacts and sculptures, including stone walls, trees and fences. It was quite the spectacle as I made my way around the circular room and inspected the magnificent painting as the light changed and each section seemed to take on a life of its own.
Once I had made my way back to the lower level, I quickly stopped at the Information Counter, received a map and some helpful advice on how best to tackle the vast expanses of the battlefield.
Finally in my car, I took a quick glance at the directions, turned on my Auto Tour and headed out to the first part of the battlefield in the northern part of the city, that of McPherson Ridge, where the Battle of Gettysburg began. Though I have visited many battlefields in Virginia, I wasn’t sure what differentiated Gettysburg from these combat zones. For starters, as I turned onto Reynolds Avenue, I discovered what it was…monuments, memorials, markers and plaques that commemorate and memorialize the men who fought and died during this important battle. Including the state monuments, this constitutes one of the largest collections of outdoor sculpture in the world.
Wanting to experience it all, I initially stopped at every monument, memorial, marker and plaque. An hour into my journey, however, I learned that if I wanted to finish the entire drive, I would have to step it up.
There were many locations that I stopped along the way to get a closer look including the Eternal Light Peace Memorial, the North Carolina, Virginia and Pennsylvania Memorials, General James Longstreet’s Monument, Brigadier General Strong Vincent Memorial, Little Round Top (the site of an unsuccessful assault by Confederate troop against the Union) and the monuments located on this hilltop. I learned that Devil’s Den, located below Little Round Top, with its huge boulders, is a popular place for visitors to stretch their legs and sometimes after dark, scour the areas around for ghosts!
Eternal Light Peace MemorialLittle Round TopLittle Round Top
There were many historical farms, with their buildings still proudly gracing various areas of the battlefield, including the farms of George Weikert, Abraham Trostle, John and Mary Wentz, the Sherfy Family, the Spanglers and the Klingles. I even discovered the home of our 34th president, Dwight D. Eisenhower.
The Home of President Dwight D. Eisenhower
Countless cannons dotted the landscape as well as other items used by the troops, including wagons. There was so much still to see as I neared the National Cemetery and the rain began to fall, dampening my efforts.
Pennsylvania MemorialPennsylvania Memorial
Finally, I made my way to the area that included Spangler’s Spring, which still exhibits its original source of drinking water and Cemetery Hill, the keystone of the Union position at Gettysburg. These were important landmarks where major assaults took place towards the end of the battle.
Such a distinctive and monumental place, the Battlefields of Gettysburg was one of the most informative, yet moving locations that I have ever set foot on. It is quite hard to imagine what partaking in those three days was like; the anticipation, the combat, the aftermath. So much effort was expended. You can still definitely feel the spirit of the souls that fought and perished here.
So, did I see any ghosts?
After a long day driving the entire battlefield, my efforts ended with the arrival of a huge thunderstorm. The lightening strikes eerily sounded like cannon fire and as I glanced out of my hotel window at the darkened skies lighting up intermittently, I decided that if I wanted to see ghosts, it wasn’t going to be on the battlefield that night.
Maybe if I had had a partner to egg me on, I might have considered driving the battlefield under the cover of night.. Or maybe, I would have had the forethought to book a room at the Comfort Suites. These rooms overlooked the Evergreen Cemetery and was adjacent to the Soldier’s National Cemetery. Certainly, they must see their share of paranormal activity just outside the hotel! This leaves me to wonder if they book extra for the rooms with a “view”!
Next time, I definitely know where I am staying!
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Address: 1195 Baltimore Pike, Gettysburg, PA 17325
Hours: Visitor’s Center, April 1-November 30, 0900-1600. Closed Tuesday and Wednesday. December 1-March 31, pending pandemic conditions. Park Grounds and Roads, April 1-October 31, 0600-1000 daily, November 1-March 31, 0600-1900, daily.
Admission: There is no fee to enter the Visitor’s Center. Ticket with timed admission for the film A New Birth of Freedom, Cyclorama Painting and the Gettysburg Museum of the Civil War, Adults (ages 13+), $15.00, Seniors (65+), $14.00, Active Duty U.S. Military Personnel, free, AAA Discount, $14.00, Youth (ages 6-12), $10.00, Children (ages 5 and under), free. For access to the Gettysburg Museum of the Civil War only, Adults, (ages 13+), $9.00, Youth (ages 6-12), $7.00
Battlefield Tours: By car with licensed tour guide, 1-6 people per vehicle, $75.00, 7-15 people per vehicle, $100.00, 16+ people per vehicle, $150.00. By bus with licensed tour guide, Adults (age 13+), $35.00, Youth (ages 6-12), $21.00, Children (5 and under), free
Summer is my season and I love all the fun things that come with it, like going to the beach. Growing up in Louisiana, we were not far from the sunny, Emerald Coast of Florida with its clear, blue waters. Many vacations were spent traveling the short six hours and getting that Panama Jack tan all in a week’s time!
As I have grown older, however, lying on a beach for a solid week doesn’t cut it for me anymore, especially when I am visiting a new location. The travel bug, that resides in me, itches to go out and explore what makes that particular location…well, particular.
This year, since COVID 19 limited our travel options, we decided to make the drive to Florida and let our children experience what we once did in our teens and early twenties.
Having decided to stay in Fort Walton Beach, we were excited to see that the weather forecast was predicting fair skies for most of the week. After the extremely long drive from our home in Virginia, it was fun to wake early the next morning, make our way down to the white sandy beach and plant ourselves under the umbrella for the day!
As much as I loved being back to what felt almost like home, I was getting a bit antsy after only two days, especially when I awakened to darkened skies that morning. Taking the opportunity to run an errand or two, I also decided to head into downtown Fort Walton to explore the Heritage Park and Cultural Center. I had spotted this place on the way to our condominium and was quite curious. I didn’t remember ever seeing it when I was younger, but then, at that time of my life, museums were probably just not that interesting to me.
Taking a spot in the parking lot off of Miracle Strip Parkway, I made my way to the museum which has been in operation since 1962. The current building was opened in 1972 and houses information and exhibits which depict 12,000 years of Native American occupation. Making my way through the modest structure, I inspected the display cases which highlight over 1,000 artifacts of stone, bone, clay and shell, prehistoric ceramics, artifacts from European explorers, local pirates and early settlers and weaving and baskets examples.
My visit to the museum lasted less than an hour and I made my way out of the doors to climb the stairs to the the prehistoric temple mound, one of the highest points on the local landscape. The Indian Temple Mound was built as a ceremonial and political center between 800 and 1400AD by the native inhabitants of the area. Standing twelve feet tall and measuring two-hundred and twenty three feet across its base, it is thought to be one of the largest prehistoric earthworks on the Gulf Coast.
In 1964, the Indian Temple Mound was designated a National Historic Landmark and is listed on the National Historic Register. The original temple sat atop the mound and was used as the residence of the leader, a temple for religious ceremonies and a place to direct the activities of the village. I learned that it was, and still is, a sacred burial ground, leaving me to think that it may not be a place to walk near after dark if you are a believer in ghosts!
After the mound was abandoned, its history was affected by the arrival of Confederate Soldiers during the Civil War and by the excavations executed by the Smithsonian Institute seeking information about the original inhabitants.
Though I could only maintain a fair distance from the temple at the top of the mound, the area surrounding the base was open for inspection.
There are three other museums in the complex; Camp Walton Schoolhouse Museum, Garnier Post Office Museum, and the Civil War Exhibit Building. As I walked to the far end of the property, I learned that due to Covid 19 restrictions in the state, these other buildings were closed to visitors. I was, however, able to inspect the exteriors and take a peek into some of the windows.
The Camp Walton Schoolhouse Museum, of which the exterior was being restored when we visited, was one of the museums on the premises that I would have loved to visit and will certainly return to in the future. It is a historic two-room structure that covers the history of education in the county from 1911 to the 1930’s. Once located on Main Street, this is the third location that the schoolhouse has been set upon. Built of native timber, the school was opened in 1912 with one teacher and fifteen students and all levels of education were taught in the one room institution for fifteen years. In 1927, another room was added for high school students and their teacher. Nine years, later, the students were moved to the New Fort Walton School. The old schoolhouse was purchased and moved to eventually serve as apartments for families during World War II and for years after. The building was left to deteriorate during the 1970’s and scheduled for demolition when the Junior Service League stepped in. Persuading the owners to donate the building, it was preserved and continued to serve in an educational capacity. It was moved to its present location in 2006.
Another museum on the premises is the Garnier Post Office Museum. This museum exhibits items from the early days of the postal service of Walton county from 1918 to 1956.
Originally located on the beach of Garnier’s Bayou, the service was relocated at the junction of Mooney and Garnier Post Roads in 1918. Under the direction of the postmaster, Euphrates A. Mooney until his death in 1935, the operations of the office was then assumed by his wife Julia, who served for twenty-eight years. Just before Mrs. Mooney’s death in 1956, the small post office was closed and thirty years later, the building was moved onto First Street behind the Camp Walton Schoolhouse Museum. After its restoration, the Garnier Post Office Museum was moved with the schoolhouse in 2006.
The final museum is the one that houses Exhibits of the Civil War and was constructed in this location in 2010. There are various items in the gallery that depict life of the Civil War soldiers stationed here during the era, information about the state’s secession, slavery in Florida, prisoners of war and other information about important events that happened during wartime.
Walking back to my car, I realized that the steady drizzle that had plagued my visit had now stopped. As I put my car into drive and headed out to the Miracle Strip Parkway, a ray of sunshine illuminated the bridge to Okaloosa Island. A rainbow hovered over the island and I realized that the end was situated just near our condominium, where I was was returning to!
Even with my love for the sun, which you hope for on a beach vacation, there has to be days of clouds and rain. Years ago, when I was hoping for my deep, dark tan, I would have been frustrated to have a rainy day. Today, it was a blessing…a day to experience the culture of the area. The true pot of gold at the end of that rainbow!
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Address: 139 Miracle Strip Parkway SE, Fort Walton Beach, Florida 32548
Hours: 1000-1500, Tuesday-Saturday *Current hours due to Covid 19 reduction
Admission: $3.00 plus tax, ages 4 and older. *Current admission price due to Covid 19 reduced hours and admittance. Only the Indian Temple Mound and the Indian Temple Mound Museum are open at this time…7/28/2020 thru the publication of this article, 10/6/2020.
Selecting a place to stay in any city can be stressful.
You want to be in a venue that is convenient and clean, yet for a solo female, safe.
The United States’ relationship with Cuba also presents a problem. Americans are not allowed to subsidize any kind of government property or business and many of the hotels are government owned. Two of the visa categories that allowed for American travel to Cuba were “People to People” and “Support the People”. These allowed for Americans to stay in small privately owned Airbnb properties, more commonly known as casa particulars, which allowed interaction with the local population and the ability to support the hardworking residents rather than the government.
One of the reasons that I had never attempted to travel to Cuba was because I was afraid to book a place early on. Since I travel on a stand-by basis, it is quite difficult to know that you will positively receive a seat on the flight until just before departure, unless half of the plane is full…and that never seems to happen! By this time, most cancellation deadlines for the properties have already passed.
Many times, I have booked my hotel from the airplane while it was still at the gate, while in-flight or even after I had landed. Since my American-based cellphone would not work upon my arrival, none of these options were viable since I really needed a response from the property owner confirming my reservation and the address of the accommodation, unlike staying in a hotel.
As I stressed the night before about this trip, I reached out to two of the properties, on the Airbnb website, that looked nice and appeared to be in the area that I wanted. Thankfully, the owner of Havana Dream, was awake in the middle of the night, talking to his family in Spain (as I later learned). When I explained my situation, he readily gave me the address and told me to book later that morning when I had a better handle on the situation. It was truly that bit of understanding that led me to have an outstanding experience.
My fears were put to rest when the gentleman who sat next to me on the plane, a tour guide, told me that he regularly keeps clients at that location. I knew that it wasn’t one of the cheaper places to stay, but I took his words to heart. “You truly get what you pay for in Havana. You will not regret staying at this place.”
Another added touch, that helped me to feel comfortable, was the fact that the owner arranged for a classic car and driver to meet me at the airport. With my limited Spanish, it was a relief to know that someone would be waiting for me and I would not have to communicate the directions. Though the service was at my expense, it was one that helped my navigation from the airport to the downtown area immensely.
Still, one never knows what you are going to get until you actually arrive.
As we pulled up to the door on Obrapia Street, I was a little skeptical. I followed the driver up a narrow set of of concrete stairs, passing an entrance to other units beyond an iron gate. Another gate was opened for us to ascend yet another flight of concrete stairs. And there I was…
Havana Dream.
The manager, Judy, met me in the sitting area and as I looked around, it definitely looked like the pictures that had motivated me to book. The sitting, kitchen and dining areas were the nucleus of the home and was quite beautiful and modern. There were stunning antiques and showcases filled with expensive-looking place settings, flatware and glassware and the kitchen cabinets and appliances were all flawless, stainless steel. Amazing art pieces, crystal chandeliers and fresh flowers completed the look!
The door to my room was one of two, immediately off of this area. As Judy led me in, I can say that I knew, then and there, that I had indeed made the right choice. My bed was pristinely made, covered in a white bedspread with embroidered pillows with the the name of this casa particular. There were small night tables and lamps on either side of the bed, with USB ports for my charging needs, and a luggage rack, a place to hang my clothes and soft, monogrammed robes. Across from the bed, there was an antique bureau which had been converted into a washbasin, an antique sewing machine, which was flipped under so that the top could be used as a table and a television mounted on the wall. Since it is advised to bring a great deal of cash for spending purposes (American ATM and credit cards do not work), the safe mounted on the wall was a welcome sight. Near the luggage rack, there was a bathroom, appointed with modern fixtures and soft, white, monogrammed towels hanging on the rack.
Judy opened up the balcony doors to show me the magnificent view of the Capitol building down the street, and the plush chairs that I would later enjoy during the cooler evenings. She then took me back inside to explain options available to me during my stay. The refrigerator was stocked with water, Hollandia beer and Tukola soda. It would be restocked each day and my tab would be noted for the items I had used. As we walked back into the kitchen, I was shown the menu board with food items available, such as sandwiches and fruit shakes. As I had decided to have breakfast the next morning, Judy took note of the time that I expected to eat and my particular liking for my eggs.
Money could be exchanged in the with Judy or the owner and internet cards could also be purchased. Not having cellular service was something that had caused me great anxiety. During my ride to the casa particular, I discovered that my cellphone’s GPS was working, so I was able to navigate throughout the city without pulling out maps and advertising to everyone that I was a tourist. The internet cards were for one hour increments, however, and noting my Apple product, Judy urged me to use the minutes consecutively. They had discovered that with Iphones, sometimes the remaining minutes disappear after a one-hour card was initiated. Later, I learned that occasionally, the owner would turn on WIFI and if I was lucky enough to be there, I could tap into his network, keeping me from continually having to purchase more cards. Having the ability to touch base with my family and let them know that I was okay was comforting.
Noting all of the modern products in the home, the lack of stores offering home furnishings and necessities required to run an establishment such as this, I asked the owner one day about how he was able to furnish the place so eloquently. Though originally born in Cuba, he spent most of his life in Spain and from there, devised the plan to open a casa particular in Havana. Much thought and planning was given to the project and countless hours were spent acquiring what was needed to remodel and ready the property. It was then all packed into a shipping container and transported across the ocean. Here, it was all combined with a loving touch so that visitors would be welcomed for a comfortable stay in the city.
He spoke so passionately about the project and his plans to continually improve the premises. Taking me outside, he led me past the other two bedrooms, in the back of the unit, to a set of intimidating stairs, that probably might not meet the building code in the United States. Up we went, to the roof, where I found the space that he planned to establish a dining/relaxing area. He already had a barbeque pit, a few chairs and work had begun on the tile flooring. The view, however, was what stole the show! I could already envision myself sitting there on a future stay, relaxing and enjoying a beer, while enjoying the sunset and scenery!
Back downstairs, I enjoyed my morning breakfasts in the beautiful dining room…and yes, we ate off of the good service pieces! The women who prepared my toast, eggs and elaborate plates of delicious fruit also prepared amazing queso sandwiches! I loved these so much that on my third day, when I stopped by my room to freshen up and drop off my packages, I had them make me one for lunch!
With so many things to see in the city, location was also something that had been extremely important. Only one block from the walking street, Obispo, a popular place to people watch, this casa particular was also in close proximity to countless museums, churches, dining, shopping, the discernable Capitol building and the famous El Floridita Bar! Location perfection!
Everything about this stay was seamless and I felt truly welcomed and safe. As my driver arrived to pick me up for my return to the airport and the United States, I took some time to reflect on the “trip that almost wasn’t”. Would I have changed anything at all about what I did here or more importantly, where I stayed?
The only thing I would have changed would have been to stay longer!
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Old Havana is filled with history, architecture, landmarks, entertainment, restaurants and museums. One would be hard pressed to not find something that interests them during their visit.
There are many other parts of the city, however, that offer up some amazing items of interest, so making a priority to step outside of the box is essential.
When I had gone on my tour of the city, we had visited the areas of Vedado, Centro Habana and Habana Viejo and crossed through the tunnel to Habana del Este. There was a brief stopover at the Castillo De Los Tres Reyes Del Morro and a drive by of Fortaleza San Carlos de la Cabana, the two fortresses that lay to the east of the entrance canal to the Bay of Havana. Since I didn’t have the time to properly explore each of these or the Military Exhibition, I decided that I needed to return on my last afternoon in the city.
But how would I get there?
Toying with the idea of taking the ferry to the Christ Statue, I decided that it would be a long walk to each of the fortresses and back. Remembering that I had seen many taxi cabs parked by the Plaza 13 de Marzo, I headed in that direction, thinking that cab fare would not be much just to cross through the tunnel from that point. Quickly locating a driver, I discovered that cab fare to the east side was a flat rate of only $10 CUC. A short drive ensued and I was dropped at El Morro.
After I paid the entrance fee, I made my way through a long, semi-arched tunnel. Exiting in the bright sunshine, I found myself on the colossal ramparts of the castle, complete with sweeping views of the the city across the waterway and the Battery of Twelve Apostles below. These twelve cannons, along with with the cannons on the ramparts, helped assist in the defense of the Havana Harbor and the city.
Battery of the Twelve Apostles
This iconic landmark was built between 1589 and 1630 and together with the Castillo de San Salvador de la Punta, on the opposite side of the bay, was a major part of the city’s defense fortification system. To safeguard the harbor from pirates and other invaders, a chain was strung between the two fortresses.
The fortress grounds are sprawling and contain several museums; Museo del Morro, Museo de la Navegación and Museo de Piratas. These museums display artifacts and items related to the castle’s history, the city’s maritime history and pirate folklore. The most stunning part of the complex, however, is the lighthouse which was built in 1846. The lighthouse was constructed to take the place of the watchtower that was destroyed by the British during their siege in 1762.
Hoping to enjoy the views of the fort and surrounding areas from a higher vantage point, I approached the lighthouse. Finding the door open, I ventured in and made my way up the curved staircase. As I neared the top, however, I heard a voice which appeared to be talking to another on a two-way radio. Thinking that maybe I was entering somewhere where I should not be, I quickly made my way back down and out of the structure. Having to be content to enjoy the lighthouse from the castle level, I also made my way through the exhibit which detailed lighthouses throughout Cuba. It is also interesting to note that El Morro once housed a school for lighthouse keepers.
Although it was still sweltering during the afternoon, I made my way around the fort, admiring the rusted cannons, central barracks, the old latrines and the small memorial, commemorating the 1762 siege, located between the two strong powder rooms in the northeast bastion. There was also a stairway which contained many clay vats leading to a hidden exit at the Star platform. These earthenware jars are called tinajones and were place there for the storage of the oil used in the lighthouse. Now empty, it was worth the descent for the lovely views of the water, the city and the Battery of the Twelve Apostles.
After a quick stop in the cafe for some much needed water, a walk through the vendor’s stalls and a walk around the grounds, I decided to make my way to the east and the Fortaleza San Carlos de la Cabana. Known as one of the most complex and expensive defense systems in the Americas, it is also one of the largest.
Constructed in the 18th century with some of most advanced military defensive features, it was named after King Carlos III of Spain, who demanded a spyglass to see it from Madrid. He claimed that such a fortress, which cost so much, surely could be seen across the ocean!
Over the years, the fortress has been used as a prison, a storage facility and, more famously, as the command headquarters of Ernesto ‘Che’ Guevara. After renovations were completed the early 1990s, different museums were opened within the complex including the Museo de Armas (Museum of Arms), Comandacia de ‘Che’ Guevara (Command Headquarters of ‘Che’ Guevara) and a museum of the history of the fortress.
Most famously, La Cabana is known for attracting thousands of locals and visitors each night to witness a tradition that began in the eighteenth century; the firing of the 9 o’clock cannon. Having heard the shot from my location in Old Havana each night, I had hoped to witness the spectacle at the fortress during my visit.
As I arrived in the late afternoon, after a short walk from El Morro, I was able to enter via the great drawbridge, which in turn, led to another bridge which crossed the now-dry moat. The innards of the fort was laid out much like a small city and I admired the repetitive framework. Making my way to the ramparts to admire the restored cannons and the excellent views of both the city and of El Morro, I marveled at the sheer size of this place.
Discovering the Comandacia de ‘Che’ Guevara (Command Headquarters of ‘Che’ Guevara), I explored the items of interest that were once in his possession, including the desk from which he made revolutionary decisions. Next door, I was welcomed by an elderly gentleman who was manning the International Book Fair, held here annually…a great place to visit, if you read in Spanish.
Out in the courtyard, I found the inimitable sundial which told me that it was around five o’clock, the time which everything begins to shut down around the city. Since no one was asking me to leave, I continued my explorations, but found the chapel and the Museum of Arms closed. Noting that vendors were setting up, I realized that they must do so each evening in anticipation of the crowds that arrive for the cannon firing. Although I walked around a bit more, I realized that the restaurants I had encountered were not open. I was tired, hungry, ready for a shower and nine o’clock was a few hours away. Besides, I wasn’t even sure how I was going to get home!
Stopping for a few more photo opportunities on my way out, I hesitated at the road. Should I turn right and head toward the Christ Statue and try to catch the ferry back to Havana or should I turn left and head back to El Morro where I might be lucky enough to find an empty cab? It was a tough decision because I really didn’t know how far I was from the ferry. Turning toward El Morro, I prayed for a passing cab. Some passed with patrons and an empty one did drive by, but I did not see it until it was too late to flag it down! Continuing down the road, I finally made it back to El Morro and as luck would have it, I saw an old Russian cab.
Now, I had ridden in many classic cars during my visit, but this type of car was one that I had maybe only seen during my trips to Moscow years ago; the Russian Lada. It wasn’t a very smooth ride back through the tunnel, but it certainly was unique! The little old gentleman driving put on “Mack the Knife” as he swerved, bumped and sped me back to Old Havana. It was seriously one of the funniest, yet terrifying moments I have ever had in a cab…and I take cabs in New York regularly! (Check out the video on Facebook, Snapping the Globe).
Finally, setting my feet on terra firma and still a bit shaky, I headed back to my Airbnb for my last night.
My last night to enjoy delicious Cuban food…
My last night to say admire the amazing architecture…
My last night to hear the cannon firing…
My last night to lay in bed and listen to the city outside my door…
My last night to enjoy my Airbnb host’s hospitality…
I realized that for all my uncertainty about taking this trip, I had found a place that rated in the top of my all-time favorite places! A place that I will certainly return in the future. After all, there were still many things to see within the city and so much outside of it!
Yes, Cuba…I am coming back!
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