November 2016 – Snapping The Globe

Touring the Tombs

Group tours? No, I don’t usually care for them…but, to see the Royal Tombs located outside of Hue, it was going to be a necessity.

Collected early after a plentiful breakfast, I was transported to the riverfront, not far from my hotel. When I had booked my tour the day before, I had not realized that we would be traveling by dragon boat on the Perfume River. Score! I had seen these boats in the river the day before and thought they were fascinating, so despite my distaste for group tours, I was suddenly very exciting for having booked one.

After setting out on the river, the scenery was interesting…many fishermen and other boat traffic…and before long, we were sidling up to the riverbank. Walking across the roadway, we entered the grounds of the An Hien Garden House.

The An Hien Garden House, built in 1885, is one of many in the city that were built for mandarins and royal relatives.

After entering the premises and walking down the pathway lined with apricot trees, we encountered a wall. It was interesting to note that this wall was placed here to keep evil spirits away as they can only travel in straight lines. If, by some chance, the spirit was able to navigate around the wall, they would encounter the reflecting pond directly in front of the house. Since spirits do not have a reflection, this was the second line of defense for the house.

The garden house, was designed in the traditional Vietnamese style, in an almost total square with an area of about 135 meters. We were able to take a seat, have tea and enjoy the beautiful woodwork and the family altar which is its centerpiece. There are also many precious relics of the Nguyen dynasty, including four horizontal lacquered boards with the words, “Van Vo Trung Hieu” (literature, military, loyal and pious), gifted by King Bao Dai in 1937, hanging in the middle room. Looking out of the open doors that line the front of the house onto the reflecting pond and the multitude of colorful, fragrant flowers, your feeling is one of peace.

Our next stop, after re-boarding our dragon boat, was one that I was familiar with, Thien Mu Pagoda. One thing different from the day before, however, was that our guide gave us much information on the history of the pagoda and pointed out many items of interest, including the pavilion to the right of the tower which contains a stele (1715) set on the back of a massive marble turtle and the precious antiques in the main hall…bronze gong (cast in 1677) and wooden gilded boards with Lord Nguyen Phuc Chu’s inscriptions (1714). Another unusual item is an Austin car in which, monk Thich Quang Duc was driven to his death in Saigon in 1963.

After our guide’s speech was complete, I decided that I would walk around the property and rephotograph everything since the day was much brighter than the previous one. After revisiting the main hall, I walked around the back of the structure and much to my surprise, realized that there was so much more to see. With the rainfall the day before and my haste to meet my driver in time, I must have not realized that the grounds extended far beyond. So…maybe coming back on the tour was not such a bad thing!

We boarded the boat again and were served a nice lunch while continuing our cruise. Our next destination was a small, old pagoda, although I never caught the name. A rather quaint place, built onto the steep rocky banks of the Perfume, it was an interesting stop and had some very old relics inside of the temple.

After crossing the river, it was time to say goodbye to our dragon boat. Boarding a tour bus, we then made our way to what I had most wanted to see, the Royal Tombs.

The first tomb on our tour was Minh Mang, about 12 kilometers from Hue. Construction on the tomb began in September 1840, however, only four months into the project, Minh Mang became sick and passed away. His successor to the throne, Emperor Thieu Tri, continued construction and Minh Mang’s corpse was buried in Buu Thanh in August of 1841. The tomb was completed in 1843.

The complex consists of forty palaces, temples and pavilions and the entrance is through the main gate, Dai Hong Mon, which was opened only once to bring the Emperor’s coffin to the tomb. Visitors now use the two side gates, Ta Hong Mon and Huu Hong Mon.

Behind the main gate is the Honor Courtyard which houses the two rows of mandarins, elephants and horse statues.

Moving along into the temple area, we found the Salutation Court, however, rain decided to hamper our progress as the skies opened up. We ducked in to the Sung An Temple after passing through the Hien Duc Mon gate. This temple is where the Emperor and Queen Ta Thien Nhan are worshiped and is flanked by Ta, Huu Phoi Dien (Left, Right Temples) in the front and Ta, Huu Tung Phong (Left, Right Rooms) in the back.

Continuing on through the Hoang Trach Mon gate, we encountered the Bright Pavilion. Behind this pavilion are two flower gardens which lead to the tomb area and the crescent lake. Thirty three steps are ascended to reach the sepulcher of the Emperor.

Leaving Minh Mang, we then headed to the Royal Tomb of Khải Định and from the very moment I set my eyes on this place, I was enthralled. Looking up at the steep steps leading up to the building, the sense is one of grandeur and it took my breath away. I couldn’t climb the steps fast enough to see what lay at the top.

The twelfth king of the Nguyen dynasty, Emperor Khải Định came to power in 1916 and was very closely tied to the French government. Because of this, he was very unpopular with the Vietnamese people.

The last king to commence construction of his own tomb, work began in 1920 with the conclusion in 1931 by his successor, Bảo Đại,. Because he was so influenced by the French, his desire was to have a tomb influenced by their architectural styles.

One thing to notice when visiting Khải Định’s tomb is that it is much smaller than the tombs of his predecessors, however, undeniably more elaborate. The rectangular structure of the tomb leans against Chau Chu Mountain and is flanked by the largest sculptures of dragons in all of Vietnam. The tomb features an imperial audience court and twelve stone statues representing bodyguards. The interior boasts intricately designed glass and porcelain decorations on the walls and the ceiling is decorated with nine complex dragons. The rear room of the palace houses a temple containing the Emperor’s grave, an altar dedicated to him and a statue of his likeness, created in Marseilles.

Our next stop was a roadside village where locals make sandalwood and cinnamon incense and traditional Hue conical hats. Colorful stalks of incense are bunched together, hanging on the walls, displayed in bins and some pieces are lit leaving a pleasant aroma in the air. Local women demonstrate the process for making the incense which is used in temples throughout Vietnam.

Eight kilometers from Hue, Tu Doc, was the final tomb that we were to visit that day. Encompassing the largest surface area, it is divided into two main parts, the temple area and the tomb area. Fifty constructions were built on terraces of various levels and all contain the word Khiem (Modesty) in their names. Construction started in 1864 and was completed in 1867.

After passing through the main gate, you notice to your right, the beautiful landscape and Luu Khiem lake. Located on the lake are Xung Khiem and Du Khiem Pavilions where the Emperor would frequent to admire flowers, compose poems and read books. We could hear music floating across the lake and noticed that a cultural performance was taking place. No time to stop, we continued on to the Hoa Khiem Palace (the Emperor’s working place) which is now the altar devoted to the Emperor and the Queen. Flanking both sides of the Palace are Phap Khiem House and Le Khiem House which were for the military and civil mandarins.

To the rear of Hoa Khiem Palace is Luong Khiem Palace (the Emperor’s resting place), which was later used to worship the Emperor’s mother. The the left of the Palace is the Minh Khiem theater and Chi Khiem, the altar to worship the Emperor’s wives and Tri Khiem and Y Khiem Palaces, which were the accommodations of the Emperor’s concubines.

Continuing on, we encountered the tomb area. The necropolis is to the left of the temple and behind the Honor Courtyard, are two rows of magnificent military and civil mandarins. On the hill, opposite the Tieu Khiem Tri lake is the Buu Thanh brick wall. In the middle is a stone house where the Emperor is buried.

Definitely the most peaceful and picturesque of all the Royal tombs, I wished that I had had more time to wander and explore all that there was to offer.

Boarding the bus for the last time, we made our way back to the center of Hue. Most certainly a long day, it was worth seeing all that there was to offer in the former national capital.

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Tours

Various tours can be booked through hotels and travel agencings encompassing all of the things that I experienced. My particular tour was booked through my hotel, 220,000 Vietnamese Dong and included lunch (drink and other food items not included) and transportation (pickup, boat, bus). Admission to the An Hien Garden House, Pagoda, and Royal Tombs was not included. Consider purchasing combination tickets which include the Imperial Palace (Citadel) and 3 or 4 Tombs.

An Hien Garden House

Address: 68 Nguyen Phuc Nguyen, Hue, Vietnam
Hours: 0800-1700, daily
Admission: 20,000 Vietnamese Dong (about US $1.00)
How To Get There: Taxi, xe om (motorbike taxi) or included with some tours. It is located about 7 minutes from the Hue Railway Station and 37 minutes from Phu Bai International Airport.

Thien Mu Pagoda

http://www.hynostravel.com/attractions/thien-mu-pagoda-hue-vietnam/
Address: Kim Long, Hương Long, tp. Huế, Thừa Thiên Huế, Vietnam
Hours: Open 24 hours
Admission: free

The Royal Tomb of Minh Mang

http://www.vietnamtourism.com/Hue/e_pages/lt_lminhmang.htm
Address: QL49, Hương Thọ, tp. Huế, Thừa Thiên Huế, Vietnam
Hours: Summer 0630-1730, Winter, 0700-1700
Admission: 150,000 Vietnamese Dong, adults, 20,000 VD, children (includes admission to Khai Dinh and Tu Doc). Combination ticket can be purchased at the Citadel which includes admission to the Citadel and all three tombs, 360,000 Vietnamese Dong, adults, 70,000, children. http://www.hueworldheritage.org.vn/TTBTDTCDH.aspx?TieuDeID=104&TinTucID=2074&l=en

The Royal Tomb of Khải Định

http://www.vietnamtourism.com/Hue/e_pages/lt_lkhaidinh.htm
Address: Khải Định, Thủy Bằng, tp. Huế, Huế, Vietnam
Hours: Summer 0630-1730, Winter, 0700-1700
Admission: 150,000 Vietnamese Dong, adults, 20,000 VD, children (includes admission to Minh Mang and Tu Doc). Combination ticket can be purchased at the Citadel which includes admission to the Citadel and all three tombs, 360,000 Vietnamese Dong, adults, 70,000, children. http://www.hueworldheritage.org.vn/TTBTDTCDH.aspx?TieuDeID=104&TinTucID=2074&l=en

The Royal Tomb of Tu Doc

http://www.vietnamtourism.com/Hue/e_pages/lt_ltuduc.htm
Address: Thủy Xuân, Huế, Thua Thien Hue, Vietnam
Hours: Summer 0630-1730, Winter, 0700-1700
Admission: 150,000 Vietnamese Dong, adults, 20,000 VD, children (includes admission to Khai Dinh and Minh Mang). Combination ticket can be purchased at the Citadel which includes admission to the Citadel and all three tombs, 360,000 Vietnamese Dong, adults, 70,000, children. http://www.hueworldheritage.org.vn/TTBTDTCDH.aspx?TieuDeID=104&TinTucID=2074&l=en

Hip, Hip Hue!

A room with a view? Yes, please!

Hue’s Orchid Hotel’s staff was extremely welcoming and within a few minutes, had me checked into my room and booked on a tour to the Royal Tombs for the next day. Delighted to find not only a beautiful basket of fruit in my room and a desktop computer for my use, I was ecstatic to find an actual window! Don’t laugh! Many hotels in Vietnam are built so close together, only the front and sometimes the back facing rooms boast windows, usually offered at a premium.

Looking out at the grey, dreary day, I slowly unpacked my suitcase, silently chanting “Rain, rain, go away”. Hoping that the longer I took, maybe the rain would stop…no such luck. I finally grabbed my umbrella and rain poncho and stepped out into the early afternoon.

Walking along the main road, many xe oms (motorbike taxis) slowed to ask if I needed a ride to the Citadel. Politely declining all, I finally agreed to one who also offered to take me to the Thien Mu Pagoda, wait for me and then deposit me at the front gates of the Citadel. We set off and after a short ride were parking near the souvenir stands lining the road near the pagoda.

Thien Mu Pagoda, sits on Hà Khê hill, about two miles from the Citadel on the Perfume River. Construction began in 1601 and it was later expanded and refurbished. The historic tower facing the river, known as Phước Duyên tower, has seven stories, each dedicated to a different Buddha, is the tallest religious building in Vietnam and sometimes recognized as the unofficial symbol of the city.

A slight drizzle continued, but didn’t deter me from seeing the tower, the temple and gardens behind it and the large marble turtle, a symbol of longevity. Keeping a close eye on the clock, I walked throughout the premises, enjoying the pavilions with the large Buddhist guardians and the colossal bell, that locals claim can be heard from six miles away.

Anxious to get to the Citadel, I made my way to the front of the property to meet with my driver, after a half hour, at our agreed upon time. As I descended the steps, it suddenly dawned on me…was this pagoda on the tour that I had booked for the next day? Checking my tour receipt, I discovered it was! Extremely frustrated, I was also a little angry with myself for not being more aware of what was on my agenda for the next day and that I had spent more money than necessary to reach the pagoda. I was also annoyed that I had taken time away from seeing the Citadel, the thing that I had most wanted to experience that day.

Returning to my perch behind the driver, we sped along the river, donned in our rain gear and arrived at the old gates of the Citadel. After purchasing a ticket and taking the requisite selfies, I was soon walking through the main gate into the Citadel.

A light rain continued, but I was determined to see everything that I could. Ducking into a building to escape the increasing downpour, I discovered that for about five dollars, you could dress up in Royal outfits and have pictures taken of you on the throne. A little corny, but it was fun!

This sprawling complex in Hue was where the Emperors of old would have lived and conducted all their business. There was even a part of the citadel known as “The Forbidden Purple City,” which, much like China’s Forbidden City, was reserved for only the most important people in Vietnam.

After changing back to my non-royal clothing, I was happy to discover that the rain had slowed and I was able to venture out onto the ancient grounds. As I walked along the long, red hallways, I imagined the Vietnamese royalty that once traversed the corridors. Many buildings are slowly being restored after being damaged and destroyed during the Vietnam-American War; however, many are in first-rate condition.

Making my way to the Forbidden Purple City in the center of the Imperial Enclosure, I was saddened to see that almost nothing remained. Almost entirely destroyed by the war, a few walls and crumbled remains lay on the site. Once a glorious institution, Vietnam’s Forbidden Purple City rivaled and was designed to resemble China’s Forbidden City. This citadel-within-a-citadel-within-a-citadel was reserved for the personal use of the emperor and only his servants were allowed on the premises with the next outer section reserved for important ceremonies and the outermost for non-royal commoners.

It was quite disheartening to look around at the existing structures that surround the Forbidden Purple City area and only have my imagination to fill in the blanks for what once existed here.

Continuing on, however, there were other buildings that remained in tact and were open to tourists.

Walking back toward the front of the premises, I soon found myself near the main gate. Deciding to walk to the west, along one of the inner walls, I was surprised to find a whole other part of the citadel. There were many different compounds, each within their own walls with small lanes between them. Once again, I made my way toward the rear of the property, through each of them, enjoying the different pavilions and temples within.

This is what I had come to see…the peeling paint, intricate tile work, ancient paintings, old gardens and temples. As I wandered down each lane and walked through each ancient gate, I could imagine what it was like to be here when it was at its prime.

Wishing I had started my journey here, earlier in the day, it suddenly dawned on me to check the time. I could see the shadows growing long and I was not sure of the closing time. Spying two workers on one of the lanes, I stopped them to inquire as to how much time I had left. Confirming what I had just found on the website, closing time on that day was six o’clock, so I still had the better part of an hour and a half. I continued on my journey…making sure I missed nothing.

At the rear of the property, there was a lake and a bridge leading to another entrance gate (one of ten). Making my way along the lake I walked to the eastern part of the complex, again making my way forward.

After some time, the light was starting to wane and I was aware that closing time was approaching. Passing a side gate, I continued walking to the front main gate so that I could exit the property. Dodging an agitated dog, I soon crossed paths with another tourist. Warning her about the dog, she asked if I knew where the side gate was. Pointing her in the right direction, she then asked me if I knew that the front gate was closed. Deciding to walk with her so that I could also exit from the side gate, we struck up a conversation. Discovering that she was from the Netherlands, I was surprised to find that she hailed from a city that I not only knew, but had visited on a few occasions, Utrecht!

As we made our way out of the Citadel and towards the river, conversation flowed easily and we decided to walk through Hue’s night market together. Discovering that our hotels were quite close to each other, we then resolved to have dinner together, a nice close to an adventurous day…a day that started early in one city and covered so many things…mountains, cloudy passes, beaches, an Imperial City and another new friend.

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Citadel

https://www.vietnamonline.com/attraction/hue-imperial-citadel.html
Address: Thuận Thành, Huế, Thua Thien Hue, Vietnam
Hours: 0800-1800, daily
Admission: 50,000 Vietnamese Dong (about US $2.21)

Thien Mu Pagoda

http://www.hynostravel.com/attractions/thien-mu-pagoda-hue-vietnam/
Address: Kim Long, Hương Long, tp. Huế, Thừa Thiên Huế, Vietnam
Hours: Open 24 hours
Admission: free

Getting High On the Way to Hue

The first time I ever heard of the city of Hue was during the planning stages of my trip to Vietnam. My friend sent me a text with a picture and right then, I knew I had to make time in my schedule to travel there.

Taking the bus from Hoi An would have been a cheaper option (about $5), however, there were a few things that I wanted to see along the way as well as arrive in Hue with enough time to see the Citadel during the afternoon.

Hiring a driver on my own was a little cheaper than booking through my hotel. Ironing out the details through email, I agreed to a driver that spoke enough English to communicate effectively, but not act as a tour guide. I also informed the car company that I wanted to stop at the Marble Mountains, China Beach, Hai Van Pass and Lang Co Beach.

After my last, amazing breakfast and a final look around the Ha An Hotel, I met my driver at the front gate. Expecting a long ride, I settled into my seat and watched Hoi An disappear behind me. About a half an hour later, I noticed the driver turning off of the main highway. A few minutes later, he pulled up to the curb, came around the car and opened up my door, “Madam, Marble Mountain”. Taken off guard, I hadn’t expected to be there that soon. Grabbing my bag, I jumped out of the car and headed up the steep steps to the ticket booth. Paying my entry fee and purchasing a map, I climbed more stairs, not quite knowing what to expect.

The Marble Mountains are a cluster of five hills made from limestone and marble and named for the elements; metal, wood, water, fire and earth. The area that these mountains lay in is known for stone cutting and sculpture. A much visited spiritual site, Water Mountain houses numerous paths leading to a host of Buddhist sanctuaries, temples and places of worship, some in caves.

Making my way up the steep, marble stairs (I later learned later that an elevator was available), I turned a corner and to my utmost surprise was a beautiful garden with a large dragon statue and many small Buddhas. To the right, was a large, white seated Buddha. Standing next to the Buddha, looking out from the mountain, were views of the beaches and the coastline.

Through an entrance gate and located on the eastern side of Water Mountain, was the Linh Ung Pagoda. Constructed during the Nguyen Dynasty, it contains representations of the three Buddhas; The Buddha of the Past (Amitabha), Buddha of the Present (Sakyamuni) and Buddha of the Future (Maitreya). The pagoda has been designated a national historical and cultural site by the Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism.

To the right of the pagoda is Vong Hai Dai, the sea-viewing pavilion, which offers an amazing view of Non Nuoc Beach and behind the pagoda is Tang Chon Cave, which has a impressive standing Buddha and Chua Linh Ung Temple. Also in this area is the Xa Loi Tower, a 15 meter tower, built of stone, overlooking the coast.

Climbing the mountain further, I encountered Am Phu and Van Thong Caves.

After entering Van Thong Cave, known for its huge statue of Buddha, I found the ascent to be extremely steep and I decided to head on to Am Phu.

Am Phu, meaning “hell” in Vietnamese was opened to tourists in 2006. The natural rock formations, stalactites and dark tunnels are enhanced with terrifying figures and altars designed by local artists. Not for the faint of heart, visitors can confess their sins and repent at the temple shrine.

Further on Water Mountain, upon entering the Hoa Nghiem Cave you are greeted by a large lady Buddha statue, the goddess of mercy. Descending twenty steps, you enter Huyen Khong Cave which contains various Buddist and Confucian shrines. Opposite the entrance is a large Buddha, carved by the famous craftsman, Nguyen Chat in 1960. Below the statue is the altar of “Dia Tang Vuong Bo Tat” (the most powerful Buddha in hell) and to the left, the shrine of “Ngoc Phi” (the goddess of wealth) and on the right, the shrine of “Loi Phi” (the goddess of Mountain and forests).

Not only having spiritual value, the cave also has great historical value. When Vietnam was at war with the French, the cave was used as a secret base for local communist leaders and guerrillas. Later, during the Vietnam War, the American military used it as a commando training area and a garrison of the Old South Government and American units.

Although I was given an hour, it was definitely not enough time to see all that there was to offer. Skipping Linh Nham Cave, I stopped to inspect the Tam Thai Pagoda. Looking out to the west, the pagoda was built in the 17th century and has three stories; Thuong Thai, Trung Tai and Ha Thai. Most interesting to check out is the old, mossy entrance gate. Pho Dong Tower, Tu Lam Pagoda and Vong Giang Dai (river view pavilion) are adjacent to the Tam Thai Pagoda. Amazing views of the Truong Giang and Cam Le rivers can be seen from Vong Giang Dai.

Making my way from Tam Thai pagoda, I soon found myself heading down the mountain, only, not to the eastern gate. I had moved downhill toward the Tam Ton pagoda. Although I was happy to have seen this tall, beautiful pagoda, time was up and I was needed back at my car to continue our journey. Asking a couple of workers in the area to direct me the right way, they pointed in a general direction and said, “That way.” Seeing no path, I asked again, Pointing toward a field, I walked that way, still seeing no path. Looking upward, I realized that I did not have the time or energy to make my way up toward the Tam Thai pagoda and back down to the eastern gate. Again, I asked another worker and was shown what to do. Now why didn’t I think to climb a small hill of slabs of marble and trudge through a field of weeds where some poisonous snake or rabid animal was surely hiding and waiting to strike?

Time was a ticking…so I climbed and ran like the wind through the field. Arriving at the main road, I looked to the mountain to get my bearings and made my way back to where I believed my driver was waiting…and thankfully, I found him!

Soon we were on our way, once again, towards Danang. My driver pulled over so that I could take some snapshots of My Khe Beach. This twenty mile stretch of white sandy beach was used by the American troops during the Vietnam War. Nicknamed China Beach, it is considered to be one of Vietnam’s most picturesque beaches.

Crossing Danang’s Dragon Bridge over the River Han, we continued into the mountains. The dark clouds that had been threatening all day, soon opened up and offered a light rain. Climbing higher into the mountains, the clouds settled around us and the views of the coast below us became obscured.

Before long, I noticed the traffic growing heavier both forward and aft of us. Pulling into a tight space between two tour buses, I realized that we were not just at a rest stop. My driver didn’t really communicate with me as to where we were and I glanced around, a little confused. Clouds were low and whipping by making it hard to see the area, but I noticed other tourists crossing the street. Following suite, I climbed the stairs and stood among the many visitors taking pictures in the foggy atmosphere of the ancient Tran Dynasty’s Hai Van Gate, wartime gun towers and French built fort that was later used as a bunker during the Vietnam War.

Crossing a spur of the Annamite Range, Hai Van Pass is an approximately 21 km long mountain pass on National Route 1A near Bach Ma National Park. The name Hai Van refers to the mists that rise from the sea, reducing visibility, and that’s just what we had today. Snapping a few pictures, I could only imagine what it would look like here on a clear day.

We continued on the twisting road, the rain hampering our progress. Closing my eyes, I rested while we drove on. Soon, my driver pulled over again, and informed me that we were looking down on Lang Co Beach. Since it was still drizzly, I quickly snapped a few photos, thinking that it would be a nice place to visit at another time.

Jumping back into the car, I checked my watch and noted that we had made better time than I had expected. Knowing that Lang Co Beach was not far from Hue, I anticipated another half hour’s journey.

As we left the mountains and rice paddies, I began to see more buildings and businesses. Checking the map on my phone, I realized that we were entering the city of Hue. A few minutes later, we were pulling onto Chu Van An Street and in front of the Orchid Hotel, my base of operations for the next day. Excitedly, I gathered my belongings and headed inside, ready to begin my exploration of Hue.

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

The Marble Mountains

Address: Hòa Hải, Ngũ Hành Sơn, Da Nang, Vietnam
Hours: 0700-1700
Admission: 15,000 Vietnamese Dong (about US $ .67)
Map: Admission: 15,000 Vietnamese Dong (about US $ .67)
Elevator: 30,000 Vietnamese Dong (about US $1.30)
Getting There: Bus #1 stops in front of the Marble Mountains and covers the journey from Danang to Hoi An. Catch the bus from the bus station in Danang (Dien Bien Phu no. 33) or from the Hoi An bus station (Le Hong Phong Street junction with Nguyen Tat Thanh). 20,000 Vietnamese Dong (less than US $1). The bus takes 15 minutes from Danang and 40 minutes from Hoi An. Taxi from Danang costs approximately 50,000 Vietnamese Dong. From Hoi An, approximately 200,000 Vietnamese Dong.

Last Hurrah in Hoi An

So much to do, so little time.

After arriving back in Hoi An and my harrowing motorbike ride from My Son, I needed a little refreshing. A quick dip in the beautiful infinity edge pool at the Ha An Hotel dip the trick!

Not quite sure what I wanted to do for the rest of the day, I grabbed a bike from the hotel and started to head back into town. As I approached the market, instead of heading straight, I quickly made a left and crossed the bridge to Cam Nam Island. Having no plan, I rode around the small island, enjoying the views of the river and the warm, sunny day. There are many hotels and homestays on the island and if you want to get away from the main drag, this is a peaceful alternative.

Back on the main street of Hoi An, I rode along the waterfront and finally parked my bicycle near the Japanese Bridge. Purchasing another ticket for Old Town, I decided to visit some of the other attractions that I had not seen on my first day.

Walking back and forth on Nguyen Tan Hoc Street, it took me a few minutes to locate the Old House of Tan Ky as it blends into the architecture of the adjacent shops and restaurants.

Constructed almost two centuries ago as the home of a Vietnamese merchant, the home sits between Nguyen Tan Hoc and Bach Dang Streets and combines three different types of architecture, Chinese (curved roof beams), Japanese (peaked roof) and Vietnamese (crosshatch).

The interior has been preserved with the original design and furniture and contains many relics of the prospering trade and cultural exchanges between the Vietnamese, Chinese and Japanese during the late 17th century. The four rooms in the Old House of Tan Ky are rather small and were designed for different purposes; welcoming the merchants, living, courtyard and sleeping. All rooms can be visited except the bedroom.

After leaving Tan Ky, I noticed a restaurant with a familiar name across the street, Morning Glory. How convenient! This was one of the restaurants that was recommended to me by a friend and one that I had planned on dining at while in Hoi An. Speaking with the hostess, I made reservations for that evening.

Moving on, I made my way up Chau Thuong Van Street to one of the most historical buildings in Hoi An, Hoi Quan Quang Dong, the Cantonese Assembly Hall.

Greeted by its colorful stone, three-entrance gate and four rows of stone pillars, four Chinese characters, meaning “Quant Trieu Assembly Hall” are embossed on the upper part of the gate. The gate is decorated with images of dragons, small lions and lemon flowers.

Built in 1885 by the Chinese, it was originally dedicated to Thien Hau Holy Mother, then to Quan Cong (Chinese general) and then to the sages who came from Guangdong. Used by Chinese fishermen and traders as a place to rest temporarily and exchange goods, the building was constructed by Chinese Cantonese merchants with parts of the building made separately in China and transported to Vietnam.

The Assembly Hall, very popular with tourists, displays an amazing dragon fountain made from pottery and many Cantonese statues throughout the complex. Well kept, but small, the walls are adorned with colorful paintings of sages and deities. Walking through the complex, make sure to not miss the rear portion, where a larger dragon fountain, garden and mural of Chinese mythology are located.

My next stop was another old structure, built in 1850. The Duc An House was a successful bookshop famous for selling Vietnamese and Chinese texts and works of foreign political thinkers like Rousseau and Voltaire. The house then became a Chinese medicine dispensary in the twentieth century. Later still, it became the center of anti-French activity. One of the previous residents, Cao Hong Hanh was decorated by the Communist government and there are many images displayed from his revolutionary past and visits from Communist Party dignitaries.

Though small, Duc An House, still retains its historic feel with its many antiques. An additional bonus is that the owner, Phan Ngoc Tram, a direct descendant of the founding family, does not allow souvenirs to be sold within the structure, a common practice in some of the other historical houses in Hoi An.

Relinquishing another of my Old Town tickets to cross the Japanese bridge, since I did not feel like walking the long way around, I made my way to the other side to the Phung Hung Old House.

Greeted in the front room by one of the guides, I was escorted to the next room where I was seated in the two story room and given a history of the building. Built over 100 years ago, during Hoi An’s prosperous times, the dark structure is one of the most beautiful forms of architecture in Hoi An. Named by the first owner, a Vietnamese businessman, a seller of cinnamon, pepper, salt, silk, ceramics and glass, it stands for the saying “Business expectation is always thriving”.

The house combines three architecture styles, Vietnamese (grillage systems, crossbeams, spars, facade roof and backside), Chinese (balcony and door system) and Japanese (nave roof). It has a high wooden attic and wide corridors.

At the rear of the bottom floor, the guide showed me many samples of embroidery produced here. You can purchase brightly colored tablecloths and napkins before ascending the stairs to the top floor. The upper floor contains many antiques and relics. Take a moment to step out onto the balcony for a unique view of Nguyen Thi Minh Khai Street and the adjacent Japanese Bridge.

As my day was drawing to a close, I made my way back to the Ha An Hotel. After preparing for dinner, I then retraced my steps to Old Town, sitting for a while at one of the many establishments facing the river to enjoy a cold Larue beer and the passing scenery.

Arriving at Morning Glory for my reservation, I was seated quickly. The restaurant was filled with patrons, the staff quite busy running from table to table and the chefs at work in the open kitchen in the middle of the restaurant.

The menu was mind boggling as everything sounded quite delicious and the smells coming from all around me were divine. Asking for advice from my server, I finally decided on Roll-It Barbecued Pork with Rice Paper as an appetizer and the My Quang Noodles with Seafood. The food was fabulous and not very expensive..about ten dollars, including my drink.

Making my way onto the lantern-lit street, I took a look around me at the beauty of Hoi An. Never did I expect to love a place so much as this. It encompassed everything that I find fascinating; architecture, history, culture, the beach, photographic opportunities. Why had I never heard of this magnificent place before? Now I had the secret. I would be departing in the morning for Hue, another historical city, but leaving my heart here.

Hoi An…I will be back.

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Old House of Tan Ky

http://hoian-tourism.com/what-to-see/ancient-houses/tan-ki-ancient-house-2
Address: 101 Nguyễn Thái Học, Minh An, tp. Hội An, Quảng Nam, Vietnam
Hours: 0830-1700
Admission: included with the Old Town ticket

Hoi Quan Quang Dong (Cantonese Assembly Hall)

http://hoian-tourism.com/what-to-see/assembly-halls/cantonese-assembly-hall
Address: 176 Trần Phú, Minh An, tp. Hội An, Quảng Nam, Vietnam
Hours: 0830-1700
Admission: included with the Old Town ticket

Duc An House

http://www.asiatravelroutes.com/en/vietnam/attractions/hoi-an/duc-an-old-house.html
Address: 129 Trần Phú, Minh An, tp. Hội An, Quảng Nam, Vietnam
Hours: 0830-1700
Admission: included with the Old Town ticket

Phung Hung House

Address: 4 Nguyễn Thị Minh Khai, Cẩm Phô, tp. Hội An, Quảng Nam, Vietnam
Hours: 0830-1700
Admission: included with the Old Town ticket

Morning Glory

http://msvy-tastevietnam.com/morning-glory/
106 Nguyễn Thái Học, Minh An, Hoi An, Quảng Nam, Vietnam
Hours: 0800-2200

My Son…My Way

Last year, Angkor Wat. This year, My Son.

Always having been a dream of mine to visit Angkor Wat, the largest religious monument in the world, I was finally afforded the opportunity last year. Having seen the “City of Temples” constructed during the 12th century, I thought that it was one of the oldest in that part of Asia.

While cruising the waters of the Thu Bon river with Mr. Seo, he asked me if I had planned to visit the ruins of My Son. Did I misunderstand him…there were ruins near Hoi An?

Seo, offered a plan. He could take me to My Son the next day on the back of his motorbike…about an hour’s ride outside of Hoi An towards the mountainous region. After quoting a price, he waited for an answer. Although I was really interested in these ruins, I knew nothing about them nor did I know what the going rate was. And…on a motorbike? With a guy I hardly knew? I needed to think on this one. I would text him later.

As I lounged at the beach that afternoon, I surfed the internet for information about My Son. A UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1999, the ruins are located about 45 kilometers from Hoi An and were built between the 4th and 14th centuries, making them older than Angkor Wat. I found tours ranging from $16-$40 per person and group sizes ranging from five persons to busloads. Seo had quoted a price of $35 and we would leave extremely early to avoid the crowds and traffic which would allow me the rest of the day to spend exploring the parts of Hoi An that I had not yet seen. Not sure if I was making the right decision, I texted Seo and negotiated a lower price. We agreed on the terms and I planned for my early departure the next day.

Seo arrived right on time at 7:15 a.m. and we were on our way, me sitting behind him. It was a long, sometimes scary and sometimes thrilling ride and I was starting to feeling the effects on my lower back when I saw the first signs for My Son. Seo parked his motorbike and we crossed the tall bridge to the ticket counter. After paying my entrance fee, we boarded the tram for the winding trip around the mountain to My Son’s grounds.

Extremely hot, even for nine in the morning, I made my way, sweating profusely, toward the main buildings in the middle of the site. My first impression was that of peacefulness. There were hardly any tourists on the grounds and I had the crumbling buildings all to myself. The temples had beautifully intricate details that were lost to the eye at first glance, however, came to life the more they were studied. The area was green and fertile and provided a beautiful backdrop for the structures. Needless to say, my camera was put to very good use.

Surrounded by high mountains and situated in the heart of a beautiful valley, these buildings were originally built from wood but were destroyed by fire in the 6th century. During the 7th century, they were rebuilt with bricks and by the 13th century, more than 70 similar buildings had been built. A sanctuary of Hinduism, the buildings of the complex were used to worship and make offerings to the Hindu gods.

Many of the buildings’ entrances were open to enter and some displayed statues and other artwork. There are four separate areas that were open to visitors and all were connected by paved pathways.

After finishing my walk through all areas of the complex and noticing that more tourists were present, I made my way to the Arts Pavilion where Aspara dancers were performing. Beautifully choreographed, it was a nice end to my visit at My Son.

Rejoining Seo, he and I made our way toward the tram, marveling at the number of tourists arriving and traveling down the wooded path. After the long ride on the back of Seo’s motorbike, I wondered if I had made the right decision. Had I paid too much? Maybe I did for a motorbike tour, but watching the busloads of tourists arriving, made me remember how much I dislike tour groups. The fact that we were able to set our own schedule and arrive earlier than everyone else was worth the price. I had been able to capture beautifully, unobstructed pictures of the site and well before the hottest temperatures of the day.

As the wind blew around me on our return trip, I was happy that I had done My Son…my way.

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

My Son

Admission: 150,000 Vietnamese dong (about US $7.00)
Hours: 0600-1700
Motorbike parking: 10,000 Vietnamese dong (about US $.45)

Breakfast, Boats, Bikes and Beaches

Ahhhh! The Ha An hotel…what can I say? Beside all of the other fabulous things about it, I discovered that it had an unbelievable breakfast!

Waking up early and a bit hungry, I crossed the courtyard to the hotel restaurant. Not sure what I would find, I at least hoped the selection was a little bit better than the Tu Linh Hotel in Hanoi. The hotel’s adorable little restaurant, where breakfast was served, was cool and welcoming and I chose a nice table in the corner. I walked to the back room, just hoping to have some eggs made, but I was mesmerized with how much food was available as well as how much of a selection! Baguettes, and about 10 other types of breads, potatoes, bacon, porridge, salads, luncheon meats and cheeses, Vietnamese specialties, crepes, omelets, desserts and more! The best part was that they blended frothy fruity drinks for you as well. After stuffing myself silly, I wasn’t sure that I could walk, but I forced myself since I had finally come up with a plan for the day.

While walking home the day before, I had met a boat captain, Mr. Seo, near the river, eager to practice his English and eager to drum up business. He had offered to take me along the Tru Bon River and around Cham island, passing near a fishing village and stopping at a boat carpenter’s village. Not promising to take him up on his offer, I decided to think about it overnight. After breakfast, I made the decision that a boat ride might provide me with some alternate photographic opportunities.

Walking through the market, I began scanning the line of boats parked along the promenade near where I had met him the day before. I didn’t have to search for long as Seo called out my name and jumped off his boat to greet me.

Making sure our deal was the same, I joined him on his boat and we pulled out and motored up the river. The day was clear and the sun not yet high enough to be so hot and low enough for interesting pictures.

Seo was very friendly and although we didn’t always understand each other completely at times, we managed to keep the conversation going. He was interested in how many photos I was taking as well as what was happening on the political scene in the United States. The scenery was stunning and he slowed at times and pulled close to fishermen so that I could get some nice shots.

We passed near the fishing village of Lang Chai Can Thanh where massive fishing nets were suspended from poles over the water. The nets are stored this way during parts of the day to keep them untangled and allow boats to pass by safely. During the night or when conditions are optimal, the nets can be lowered.

As we continued, I could see many boats on the riverbanks, some being repaired and some being built. Our boat’s speed soon slowed and we turned toward the shore. After securing the boat to the dock on Cam Kim island, we climbed ashore and walked through the village. There were a large number of boats in various states of progress. What caught my attention was the large eyes that were painted on each side of the front of the boats. Seo explained that there are a couple of reasons for doing so. Many fishermen see their boats as fish, so the eyes are painted to help them see danger ahead. Others think that painting the eyes of a sea serpent on the prow prevent it from being harmed by other sea monsters.

Returning to the boat, we continued onward and eventually made our way back to the harbor in Hoi An. As we approached, I marveled at the beauty of the town with its palm trees, brightly colored buildings and large number of brilliantly painted boats lining the waterfront. Thanking Seo and leaving him to find another patron, I made my way back to my hotel on Phan Bội Châu to enjoy a quick lunch and gather my belongings.

Once I was ready, the bellman pulled out a bike for me, made sure it was in working order and set the seat to accommodate my shorter frame. Placing my beach towel and belongings in the basket on the handlebars, I took a deep breath. Checking the map that I received from the front desk, I turned out of the hotel’s gate onto the main road. A little apprehensive, I peddled slowly, checking the upcoming street signs. Turning into traffic, I made my way in the direction of the beach. Many cars and motorcycles passed me by, but I continued onward soon leaving the buildings of the city and driving onto a long road lined with trees, rice paddies and grazing water buffalo. Crossing a bridge, I stopped for a moment to look down at the river with stately homes lining the coast and some smaller fishing shacks lying on the sand spits. I peddled further and soon noticed many restaurants lining the road and places advertising bicycle parking, realizing that I had arrived at An Bang Beach.

Paying to park my bicycle, I walked past the guardhouse to the steps leading down to the beach. Making my way tread by tread, I gazed out over the greenish water, white sand and the umbrellas lining the area beneath the small cliffs on both my right and left. Paying one of the attendants 50,000 Vietnamese dong for the use of one of their loungers, I made myself comfortable, realizing that this was the first time in many days where I was actually going to relax for a period of time that did not entail sleep. Well, maybe a small nap…

Spending the greater part of the afternoon at An Bang Beach, I waded into the clear green waters, read and had a nice ham and cheese baguettes from one of the many restaurants that lined the beach. The peace and tranquility were just what I needed that day.

Gathering up my belongings, I walked along the beachfront, my toes leaving prints behind me and admiring the small round woven bamboo baskets boats that filled the beach. Finally, with the sun getting lower in the sky, it was time to go. I retrieved my bicycle and made my way back the way I had come, past the restaurants, over the bridge and back to the long field lined road.

With daylight waning, I stopped to admire two fishermen in a small pond, gathering their catch and then further along, noticed an odd sight. On the headland between two fields, a farmer was reclining on the back of one of his water buffaloes. Such a strikingly beautiful picture, I quickly jumped off my bike and braved the oncoming traffic to get to the other side of the road. Fastening my telephoto lens, I snapped as many pictures as I could before he jumped off to attend to other duties.

Arriving at my hotel, I realized that for the first time since I had landed in Vietnam, I felt relaxed and rejuvenated. Such a beautiful place, Hoi An offers a vast amount of history and the ability to enjoy the natural environment. Sitting on the waterfront, enjoying a lovely dinner and a LaRue beer, I relived the day’s events…I made a new friend, traversed the waters of the Tru Bon River, marveled at the boat making and fishing skills of the local people, made my way through the countryside and sunk my toes into the sands and waters of the East Vietnam Sea. What more could you ask for?

Check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe for more pictures.

Mr. Seo Tours

Boat Number: QNa 0572
Mobile: 01288 550 448
Bach Dang Street, Hoi An, Quong Nam, Vietnam

An Bang Beach

https://www.google.com/maps/place/An+Bang+Beach/@15.9137909,108.340795,15z/data=!4m5!3m4!1s0x0:0xed0d9e973a32b1ef!8m2!3d15.9137909!4d108.340795
Address: Hai Bà Trưng, Cẩm An, tp. Hội An, Quảng Nam, Vietnam
Getting There: Taxi is a good alternative if you plan to stay after dark and enjoy dinner. By day, take a bicycle or motorbike and enjoy the scenery!

Hello Hoi An!

Ever been in a taxi and wondering if your taxi driver actually knows where he is taking you? Many people can say, “Yes, of course!”

It was quite early when I said goodbye to the Tu Linh Hotel and headed back to Noi Bai International Airport. I was excited to start the next chapter of my Vietnam travels and my destination was Hoi An.

Turning out of the Old Quarter, I rested my head on my seat and watched the heavy morning traffic outside my window. Suddenly, the taxi driver turned to me and asked a question in Vietnamese. He lifted a paper and pointed to the words Noi Bai International Airport. Guessing that he was asking me if that was where we were going, I was a little perplexed as I knew the hotel had given him instructions to take me to the airport. After a few more exchanges, I realized that he was asking me if I was traveling international or domestic and I stated Da Nang. Realizing that he still was confused, it dawned on me that maybe there were two airports. Oh no! What if he takes me to the wrong one?

A call to the Tu Linh Hotel finally straightened things out. He only wanted to make sure that I was going to the domestic terminal and soon deposited me there safely.

Soaring through the skies on Jetstar Airways, I arrived a short time later into Da Nang International Airport. Thankfully, my driver was waiting for me this time…front and center…and after a rather uneventful drive, we were arriving in Hoi An.

“The cutest hotel I have ever stayed at in the entire world”. This was how my friend had described the Ha An Hotel. Coming from a flight attendant, that is the highest of praise and I knew that there was no other place to stay! Well, he was right! Truly one of the most charming places I have ever seen, I was elated that I had taken his advice. I was ushered to the restaurant where I was served fresh fruit and a frosty drink. The receptionist, sat with me, going over the hotel’s amenities and then informed me that my room was ready.

Walking into my room, I was flabbergasted! I had been upgraded to one of the rooms opening onto the lush courtyard. My room was spacious and extremely well appointed with a large comfortable-looking bed. The bathroom had an open shower with river rock and a marble counter. Wow! Wow! Wow! The thought that ran through my head at that moment was that I was going stay here forever! Oh, well…at least for another couple of nights!

Opening my plantation doors, I peered out into the courtyard. There was a pool table just outside my door and an infinity edge swimming pool in the far corner. The area was beautifully landscaped and the entire hotel complex’s appearance had the feel of an old Caribbean plantation.

As much as I wanted to languish in this exquisiteness, I was anxious to explore the town. Following my map, I headed out of my hotel’s gates and headed toward the Old Town.

Hoi An’s Old Town was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1999 and is a well-preserved example of a South-East Asian trading port as would have been experienced during the 15th to 19th centuries. There are 1,107 original timber frame buildings and the center of town is restricted to pedestrians, motorcycles and bicycles.

An entrance ticket is actually required to enter the Old Town, however, the ticket is rarely checked except when entering one of the buildings or points of interest that it is required for. It took a few minutes to locate one of the ticket booths, but I soon had a ticket in hand and was anxious to explore the many historic landmarks.

The ticket is valid for 24 hours and allows (with tear-off coupons) entrance to five attractions. Trying to decipher which of the attractions I was going to visit first, was a bit of a task and I decided to start with the closest.

Right around the corner, on Tran Phu Street, was the To Do Tham Quan Pagoda. Entering through the brick front entrance arch, I noticed the Chinese characters that represent the deity to whom the temple is dedicated on each side of the doorway. The central courtyard contained a censer and the temple displayed many Chinese offerings of fruit, cookies and incense near the gold leafed altar. There were many interesting statues and carvings (some protected by glass) and the space was lighted by many large lanterns. The best part about this interesting pagoda was that I didn’t have to use one of my Old Town tickets…it was free to visit.

Without having to check my map, I moved on to the nearby Minh Huong Communal House, with its bright yellow entrance arch, also on Tran Phu and included in the list of the historical attractions with ticket access. Minh Huong was built by Chinese settlers in the late 18th century to worship their ancestors who had founded the Minh Huong village. Deities worshiped here are Thien Hau Holy Mother, the God of Earth and the God of Fortune. Every year, seasonal worship rituals and celebrations dedicated to Minh Huong ancestors are held here in the spring and fall.

Further down the street, was the Confucian Ong Pagoda, also known as the Quan Cong Temple. Located on a street corner near the central market, the 17th century pagoda was easy to find and included in the list of historical attractions, thus requiring a ticket. Dedicated to “Quan Thanh De Quan” (Quan Cong), it was built in 1653 to honor the Chinese general, a prominent figure in the three kingdom era of China. The interior was very ornate and included two huge wooden statues near the altar which should be inspected…one is the the idol of the protector of Quan Cong and the other is the adopted son of the protector. The small front hall contains an altar dedicated to Quan Cong’s guards and is flanked by ritual weapons and objects used for processions.

Rounding the corner, on my way to the Hoi An Museum, I spotted Chua Ba and dashed inside for some pictures. Containing some some small altars and a courtyard, it was nice for a quick visit.

Moving on, I headed to the Hoi An Museum. Anxious to learn about the history of Hoi An, I was a bit dismayed to find that some information was not translated into English. The space has some interesting relics, including bells, a boat and artillery however, it did not feel very welcoming or well displayed. The museum also does not have air conditioning and it was extremely difficult to move throughout the space without searching for a fan to cool off. The admission was included in the Old Town ticket, however, it is one that I would skip on a future visit.

In search of the Japanese Covered Bridge, I came upon the Thong Bao Temple. With free admission, I decided to take a few minutes to inspect the premises. When entering, I was greeted by a large open courtyard with a multitude of statues on the right side of the property. A sign at the entrance, gives many instructions, including standing three meters away from these statues, not pointing at the statues or crossing your arms behind your back when standing in front of the statues. The main building is a large impressive structure with beautiful tile work and ornate columns. If in the area, this temple is certainly worth a look.

Back to my mission, I headed down Nhi Trung Street towards the Japanese Covered Bridge, the most famous tourist destination and the official symbol of Hoi An. There were many visitors both near and on the bridge. The structure was built in the early seventeenth century by the community of Hoi An to create a link with the Chinese quarters across the stream and is a beautiful and unique example of the Japanese architecture of the period. The bridge was constructed with a roof for protection from the sun and rain and contains three Chinese characters above the door, “Lai Ven Kieu” which means “Bridge for passengers by from Afar”. The two sculptures at one end of the bridge, dog and monkey, are sacred symbols in the Japanese cultures. After paying with my admission ticket, I only expected to use the bridge to cross to the other side. Inside, however, I found a small temple which is dedicated to the northern God, Tran Vo Bac De, the God of Weather. Later, I was informed that crossing the bridge was free, and you only had to pay with an admission ticket if intending to visit the temple, however, attendants were stationed at the entrance of the bridge and demanded a ticket upon entry.

After crossing the Japanese Covered Bridge, I continued on Nguyen Thi Minh Khai and reached the Cam Pho Communal House. It was nearing the end of the day and there were no other visitors as I entered. Greeted with a bright yellow entrance arch and tall yellow vases and an altar in the central courtyard, I found it to be very similar to the Minh Huong Communal House, including a vestibule, left hall, right hall and main hall. What I loved most were the ridge and gable ornamentation.

After leaving Cam Pho Communal House, I proceeded to walk to the end of Nguyen Thi Minh Khai and make my way toward the waterfront. Walking along the far side of the Thu Bon river, I marveled at the many sculptures, choices of restaurants and hotels and the boats being paddled by local women along the river. Crossing the Hoi An Bridge, and scanning the many restaurants here along the waterfront that were just starting to light up, I realized that my stomach was starting to rumble. Time for dinner!

After freshening up and enjoying a beer on my patio, I realized that with all of the activities I had packed into the day, I was extremely tired. Deciding to look for something close to my hotel, I happened upon the White Lotus. After a delicious meal of seafood filled won tons and shrimp and yellow noodles, I discovered that this delectable restaurant not only serves wonderful food, but it also a non-profit helping those less fortunate. Owned by Project Indochina, an Australian non government aid organization, the profits made by White Lotus are used to fund aid programs that improve of the quality of life of disadvantaged children, their families and communities in Vietnam, Cambodia and Laos.

Making my way back across the street to my hotel, I was happy (as were my feet) that I did not have to travel very far. Ready for sleep, I settled in, not sure what the next day would bring. No plans…I was ready for anything…for my second day in Hoi An.

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Jetstar Airways

http://www.jetstar.com/us/en/home

Ha An Hotel

http://haanhotelhoian.com/

Hoi An Old Town

https://www.travelfish.org/sight_profile/vietnam/central_vietnam/quang_nam/hoi_an/729
Admission ticket: 120,000 Vietnamese dong (about US $6.00)
The full list of sights included on the ticket is:
Old houses: Tan Ky; Duc An; Quan Thang; Phung Hung;
Assembly halls: Quang Trieu; Trieu Chau; Phuc Kien;
Structures: Japanese Covered Bridge;
Museums: Museum of Trade Ceramics; Museum of Sa Huynh Culture; Museum of Folk Culture; Museum of Hoi An;
Traditional arts: Handicraft workshop; traditional music performance;
Communal houses: Cam Pho; Minh Huong; Quan Cong Temple;

To Do Tham Quan Pagoda

Address: Tran Phu, Hoi An, Vietnam
Admission: free
Open daily, all year long

Minh Huong Communal House

http://www.hoianworldheritage.org.vn/en/news/Monument/Minh-Huong-Communal-House-110.hwh
Address: 14 Tran Phu, Hoi An, Vietnam
Admission: included with Old Town ticket
Open daily, all year long, 0730-1130 and 1330-1730

Quan Cong Temple (Ong Pagoda)

http://hoian-tourism.com/what-to-see/other-relics/the-quan-cong-temple
Address: 24 Trần Phú, Minh An, tp. Hội An, Quảng Nam, Vietnam
Admission: included with the Old Town ticket
Open daily, all year long,0730-1130 and 1330-1730

Chua Ba Temple

Admission: free
Open daily, all year long

Hoi An Museum

https://hoianheritage.net/
Address: 10B Trần Hưng Đạo, Sơn Phong, tp. Hội An, Quảng Nam, Vietnam
Admission: included with the Old Town ticket
Open daily, all year long, 0730-1130 and 1330-1730

Thong Bao Temple

Address: Nhi Trung Street
Admission: free
Open daily, all year long

Japanese Covered Bridge

http://hoian-tourism.com/the-heritage/architecture/japanese-covered-bridge-the-symbol-of-hoi-an
Address: Nguyễn Thị Minh Khai, Cẩm Phô, tp. Hội An, Quảng Nam, Vietnam
Admission: included with the Old Town ticket
Open daily, all year long, 0730-1130 and 1330-1730

Cam Pho Communal House

Address: Phan Chau Trinh, Hoi An, Vietnam
Admission: included with the Old Town ticket
Open daily, all year long, 0730-1130 and 1330-1730

White Lotus Restaurant

http://www.projectindochina.com/white-lotus-restaurant
Address: 11 Phan Bội Châu, Sơn Phong, tp. Hội An, Quảng Nam, Vietnam
Open daily. 0900-2230.
Cooking classes offered.

Hanoi, Leaving No Stone Unturned

The streets of Hanoi were calling…

With so many things left to see in Vietnam’s capital, even though I was exhausted from the long trip the day before, rising early was a must! As I walked along P. Hang Ga, I learned that being up and out early had its advantages…the sidewalks were not as crowded, making it much easier to reach my first destination, Hoa Lo Prison Museum.

Hoa Lo Prison was built in 1896 by the French and was intended to house only 450 inmates. The inmate population eventually exceeded that number, however, and terrible housing conditions resulted. Many died within its confines, but without adequate security, many escaped the prison walls over the years.

The museum focuses mainly on the prison’s use during the French occupation up until the mid-1950s, during Vietnam’s struggle to gain independence. Many displays show the deplorable conditions in which the prisoners lived and the punishments they received. A French guillotine is showcased in one of the rooms and many cells are open for inspection. There is also a memorial in the courtyard dedicated to the Vietnamese prisoners.

Two rooms also concentrate on the American pilots who were incarcerated in the prison during the American War (as it is called in Vietnam). The U.S. POW’s referred to the prison as the Hanoi Hilton and after analyzing the many photos, it seemed as though the American prisoners were treated well, though from prisoners accounts, we have learned that was far from the truth. American pilots that were incarcerated included Pete Peterson (the first U.S. ambassador to a unified Vietnam in 1995) and Senator John McCain (Republican nominee for the U.S. Presidency in 2008). Senator McCain’s flight suit is displayed as well as photos of the Hanoi locals rescuing him from Truc Bach Lake.

After leaving Hoa Lo prison, a short walk took me to the Ambassadors’ Pagoda (Quán Sứ Temple) in the French Quarter area of Hanoi. The well-maintained pagoda is the official headquarters of Buddhism in Hanoi. The pagoda received its name during the 17th century when there was a guesthouse that housed the ambassadors of Buddhism from other countries. Today, residents hold “send-off” ceremonies for the souls of recently deceased family members and government officials frequently make visits to the pagoda.

Deciding to walk a short ways through the French Quarter area, I circled Thien Quang Lake and headed back north to St. Joseph’s Cathedral, stopping to purchase some delicious donuts from a local Vietnamese woman. She obviously thought I need fattening up as she filled the bag completely. I had to ask her to take donuts out of the bag four times to get to the amount that I desired!

Eating my snack as I walked, I soon arrived at the Neo-Gothic Cathedral. Noticing that the main entrance was blocked off, I admired the soaring facade with its twin bell towers and took pictures from its plaza. Assuming that entry was only available during Mass-times, I continued my journey, only to find later that entry was available through the Diocese of Hanoi compound, a block away.

Arriving in the Hoan Kiem Lake area, I first noticed the Thang Long Water Puppet Theater. Not quite understanding what a water puppet show entailed, I had heard that the shows were quite nice and something that all visitor’s to Hanoi should see. Proceeding to the ticket counter, I purchased a ticket to the next show. Having more than an hour before my performance, I decided to do a little shopping and visit the Ngoc Son Temple which sits in the middle of Hoan Kiem Lake.

Ngoc Son (Temple of the Jade Mountain) is reached by entering the Tam Quan (Three-Passage Gate) and crossing the red wooden bridge called The Huc (Rising Sun), to the its location on the Jade Islet. In the 16th-18th centuries, a country villa was located on the islet and used by the Trinh mandarins when boating on the lake. In the 19th century, the temple had many different uses, but currently, it is dedicated to Tran Hung Dao, a 13th century Vietnamese national hero, scholar Van Xuong and to Nguyen Van Sieu a Confucian master who restored and expanded the temple in 1864.

There are a few buildings to visit in the temple, the Pen Tower, Dai Nghien, the Moon Contemplation Pavilion and the Pavilion Against Waves, all of which have symbolic meaning. Once you have spent time within the temple, take time to observe the lake from this unique perspective. If you are early enough in the morning, catch the sunrise from the bridge and throughout the day, watch for a giant turtle head floating above the water…a sign of good luck.

Leaving the busy temple, I headed back to the Thang Long Water Puppet Theater. Taking my seat in the middle of the theater, I marveled at the musicians accompanied by the cheo singers who chant the story and warn the puppets of danger. Although I watched closely, I could never figure out how the puppets danced above the water. Reading up on the art of Vietnamese puppetry, I did learn that the guilds closely preserve the secrets of their craft…so, I guess I will never know. Enjoying something I had never experienced. it was also nice to be away from the heat of the day and have a chance to rest my feet.

The next point on my map was Ngôi Nhà di Sản (The Heritage House). A small inconspicuous building on Ma May Street, I actually walked past it a couple of times before realizing its location. One of the few intact remains of an old-style home in Hanoi, it is an excellent glimpse into how Hanoi’s residents once lived.

Further down the street from the Heritage House is the oldest temple in Hanoi, Bach Ma. Also known as the White Horse Temple, it was built in the 11th century by the order of King Ly Thai To, the governor of Hanoi. Everything you see today, however, dates from the late 18th century when the temple was restored. Arriving at the end of the day, the woman in charge of the temple was closing up, but saw me approaching and invited me in. She kindly allowed me to look through the entire building without feeling rushed.

The final things on my Hanoi “To Do” list were not far in the Old Quarter. Navigating the crowded and narrow streets, I first made my way to the Old City Gate. Somehow, I lost my bearings and was not sure which direction to turn. With the help of a shopkeeper, I was pointed in the right direction and soon found the landmark. In 1010, the thick city walls protected the city’s interior and the king and his court. Access to the city was by four gates, only one of which remains today. The gate still stands strong and motorbikes ride through the openings throughout the day.

Walking through the gates, I came to the highway and crossed over using the covered walkway. Spanning 4 km of the Song Hong dyke, is the Hanoi Ceramic Road. Completed in 2010 for Hanoi’s 1000th birthday celebration, it is comprised of scene’s depicting different periods in Vietnam’s history. I first saw this mural upon my arrival into the city and then again while on the bus to Ha Long Bay. It is wonderful to see the craftsmanship up close, though a little disconcerting with the traffic flying by.

Finally, my checklist was complete. Everything that I had set out to do and see in the country’s capital was now stored away in my memory and on my camera’s SD card. It was time to move on. It would be an early morning as I set out for my next Vietnamese adventure…Hoi An.

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Hoa Lo Prison Museum

http://hoalo.vn/
Address: 1 Hoả Lò, Trần Hưng Đạo, Hoàn Kiếm, Hà Nội, Vietnam
Hours: 0800-1130 and 1330-1700, daily. Self-guided tours, signs in English, Vietnamese and French
Admission: 10,000 Vietnamese dong (about US 50 cents)

Ambassadors’ Pagoda

http://www.hynostravel.com/attractions/ambassadors-pagoda-hanoi-vietnam/
Address: 73 Quán Sứ, Trần Hưng Đạo, Hoàn Kiếm, Hà Nội, Vietnam
Hours: 0900-1700, daily
Admission: free
Modest dress required

Thang Long Water Puppet Theater

http://thanglongwaterpuppet.org/en/
Address: 57b Dinh Tien Hoang Street, Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi, Vietnam
Hours: Summer, 1610, 1720, 1830, 2000, Winter, 1500, 1610, 1720, 1830, 2000 and 2115, Sunday morning 0930
Admission: Adults, 100,000 Vietnamese Dong (about US $4.50), Children (under 1.2 meter), 60,000 Vietnamese Dong (about US $2.70). Assigned seating.

Ngoc Son Temple

http://www.hynostravel.com/attractions/ngoc-son-temple-hanoi-vietnam/
Address: Dinh Tien Hoang St., Hanoi 100000, Vietnam, Hoan Kiem Lake
Hours: 0730-1700, daily
Admission: 30,000 Vietnamese Dong (about US $1.35)

Heritage House

Address: 87 Ma May Street, Hanoi, Vietnam
Hours: 0830-1700, daily, closed during the lunch hour
Admission: 10,000 Vietnamese Dong (about US $.50)

Bach Ma Temple

Address: 13 Hàng Giấy, Hàng Buồm, Hoàn Kiếm, Hà Nội, Vietnam
Hours: 0700-1100 and 1400-1700
Admission: free

Old City Gate

Address: 56 Hàng Chiếu, Đồng Xuân, Hoàn Kiếm Đồng Xuân Hoàn Kiếm Hà Nội, Vietnam, Vietnam
Hours: Open always
Admission: free

Hanoi Ceramic Mosaic Mural

Address: Ấp Thạnh Vinh, Phúc Xá, Ba Đình, Hà Nội, Vietnam
Hours: Open always
Admission: free

Ha Long Bay…A Long, Long Day

Despite my indecision, I was finally on my way…to Ha Long Bay!

Picked up promptly at 8:00 a.m., I was one of the first of the group in the tour bus. Being first, however, is not always a good thing. Glancing around and seeing so many seats, I realize one of two things will happen. We either have a small group and many of the seats will not be filled or every seat will be filled and that empty seat next to me will be occupied by another tourist…and indeed, if we are filling the bus, we will probably be picking up passengers for quite some time. Oh well, at least I had a window seat so that I could take pictures as we drove around picking up the others.

After a while, the seats filled, one by one, and our tour guide, Sonny, began asking some people to move to accommodate passengers traveling together. Oh no! Please don’t ask me to move from my window seat! I was getting some great shots! As he walked through the aisle, he glanced my way, but kept moving. A young Japanese woman reluctantly joined me after he asked her to move forward. Thankfully, I was safe at my window!

We continued to drive around the Old Quarter until our bus was full. Finally, we made our way out of the city, heading east, crossing the Red River on the Tranh Tri Bridge, proceeding through the Bac Ninh Province and the lush green rice paddies.

Having been told that it was a three and a half to four hour trip, we all hunkered down, taking naps until we finally reached our halfway point, the Dong Trieu Ceramic and Pottery Village. Stretching our legs, we were able to get drinks and snacks before re-boarding for the remainder of our trip.

After our short stop, the Japanese woman, Masami, who had been napping for most of the trip, struck up a conversation. Wouldn’t you know? She was also a flight attendant! Needless to say, we talked for the remainder of the drive and were fast friends with many things in common.

Eventually, after what seemed like a lot more driving than we were promised, we arrived at Ha Long Bay. From the terminal, we could see the limestone karsts and isles in the distance that have made the area famous and designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

After a quick rub to Buddha’s belly for luck and a safe journey, we were led to our boat, the Violeto 2. Boarding quickly, we were seated downstairs and served a beautiful Vietnamese lunch consisting of fish, shrimp, morning glory, rice, fruits, salads and many other delectable treats. After our meal was complete, we all anxiously climbed to the top deck where we could feast our eyes on the stunning scenery.

Our first stop was for kayaking and boat rides. Some of the kayaks looked to be in various stages of seaworthiness and we were told that getting wet was a possibility. Since I had my big camera and iPhone in my possession, I wasn’t willing to risk their safety. Masami and I discussed it and decided that we would let someone else do the rowing in one of the traditional bamboo boats. Joining a Filipino couple and a Chinese gentleman, we were a festive group, taking pictures and laughing as we were rowed through openings in the limestone to hidden bays. Such a shame it was, however, that there were so many other rowboats and kayaks to ruin what could have been an amazing and tranquil experience. Still, we enjoyed the views and the very small, colorful floating village that we embarked from and returned to.

After re-boarding the Violeto 2, we began our journey to Dong Thien Cung a large cave located on one of the islands within Ha Long Bay. There were many stairs to climb up the mountain to the entrance of the cave and a large number of other tour groups to navigate around while following our tour guide through the space. The cave was nicely lit and many interesting formations were pointed out to us. Upon our exit, Masami and I were able to get some nice photos on the lookout point.

As we departed from the island, we were assembled downstairs on our boat, once again, for tea and a small snack. The afternoon was drawing to a close and the sun was lower in the sky giving the bay an ethereal quality. Many of us gathered on the upper deck for a few fleeting glances at the emerald waters, exquisite rock formations, fishermen and junk boats while we made our return trip.

Once back on the mainland, we braced ourselves for the long journey back to Hanoi. Arriving at my hotel around 8:30 p.m., I was exhausted but excited for the day’s adventure. Not only had I seen a beautiful part of our planet, but I had made a new friend.

The best part of traveling is not only seeing things that we have not seen before, like Ha Long Bay, but sometimes meeting people from other places and walks of life. Masami and I were both grateful that because of time constraints, we had chosen the day trip to Ha Long Bay. We were also grateful that because of our large group, she was asked to change seats. We may never have had the opportunity to talk as much as we did on our journey!

I plan to return to Ha Long Bay one day and experience its beauty once again and I hope to visit with my new friend in the near future!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.com

Alova Day Cruises

http://alovacruises.com/
Prices vary, but run about $50-60 per person, depending on method of booking. The price includes transportation to and from your hotel in Hanoi’s Old Quarter, bottled water, lunch on boat (beverages not included), snack and English speaking tour guide.
Pickup from 0800-0900 and return from 2000-2100.