Tag: biking

Breakfast, Boats, Bikes and Beaches

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Ahhhh! The Ha An hotel…what can I say?  Beside all of the other fabulous things about it, I discovered that it had an unbelievable breakfast!

imageWaking up early and a bit hungry, I crossed the courtyard to the hotel restaurant. Not sure what I would find, I at least hoped the selection was a little bit better than the Tu Linh Hotel in Hanoi.  The hotel’s adorable little restaurant, where breakfast was served, was cool and welcoming and I chose a nice table in the corner.  I walked to the back room, just hoping to have some eggs made, but I was mesmerized with how much food was available as well as how much of a selection!  Baguettes, and about 10 other types of breads,  potatoes, bacon, porridge, salads, luncheon meats and cheeses, Vietnamese specialties, crepes, omelets, desserts and more!  The best part was that they blended frothy fruity drinks for you as well.  After stuffing myself silly, I wasn’t sure that I could walk, but I forced myself since I had finally come up with a plan for the day.

While walking home the day before, I had met a boat captain, Mr. Seo, near the river, eager to practice his English and eager to drum up business.  He had offered to take me along the Tru Bon River and around Cham island, passing near a fishing village and stopping at a boat carpenter’s village.  Not promising to take him up on his offer, I decided to think about it overnight.  After breakfast, I made the decision that a boat ride might provide me with some alternate photographic opportunities.

imageWalking through the market, I began scanning the line of boats parked along the promenade near where I had met him the day before.  I didn’t have to search for long as Seo called out my name and jumped off his boat to greet me.

Making sure our deal was the same, I joined him on his boat and we pulled out and motored up the river.  The day was clear and the sun not yet high enough to be so hot and low enough for interesting pictures.

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Seo was very friendly and although we didn’t always understand each other completely at times, we managed to keep the conversation going.  He was interested in how many photos I was taking as well as what was happening on the political scene in the United States. The scenery was  stunning and he slowed at times and pulled close to fishermen so that I could get some nice shots.

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imageWe passed near the fishing village of Lang Chai Can Thanh where massive fishing nets were suspended from poles over the water.  The nets are stored this way during parts of the day to keep them untangled and allow boats to pass by safely.  During the night or when conditions are optimal, the nets can be lowered.

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imageAs we continued, I could see many boats on the riverbanks, some being repaired and some being built.  Our boat’s speed soon slowed and we turned toward the shore.  After securing the boat to the dock on Cam Kim island,  we climbed ashore and walked through the village.  There were a large number of boats in various states of progress. What caught my attention was the large eyes that were painted on each side of the front of the boats.  Seo explained that there are a couple of reasons for doing so.  Many fishermen see their boats as fish, so the eyes are painted to help them see danger ahead.  Others think that painting the eyes of a sea serpent on the prow prevent it from being harmed by other sea monsters.

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imageReturning to the boat, we continued onward and eventually made our way back to the harbor in Hoi An.  As we approached, I marveled at the beauty of the town with its palm trees, brightly colored buildings and large number of brilliantly painted boats lining the waterfront.  Thanking Seo and leaving him to find another patron, I made my way back to my hotel on Phan Bội Châu to enjoy a quick lunch and gather my belongings.image

imageOnce I was ready, the bellman pulled out a bike for me, made sure it was in working order and set the seat to accommodate my shorter frame.  Placing my beach towel and belongings in the basket on the handlebars, I took a deep breath.  Checking the map that I received from the front desk, I turned out of the hotel’s gate onto the main road.  A little apprehensive, I peddled slowly, checking the upcoming street signs.  Turning into traffic, I made my way in the direction of the beach.  Many cars and motorcycles passed me by, but I continued onward soon leaving the buildings of the city and driving onto a long road lined with trees, rice paddies and grazing water buffalo.  Crossing a bridge, I stopped for a moment to look down at the river with stately homes lining the coast and some smaller fishing shacks lying on the sand spits.  I peddled further and soon noticed many restaurants lining the road and places advertising bicycle parking, realizing that I had arrived at An Bang Beach.

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imagePaying to park my bicycle, I walked past the guardhouse to the steps leading down to the beach.  Making my way tread by tread,  I gazed out over the greenish water, white sand and the umbrellas lining the area beneath the small cliffs on both my right and left.  Paying one of the attendants 50,000 Vietnamese dong for the use of one of their loungers, I made myself comfortable, realizing that this was the first time in many days where I was actually going to relax for a period of time that did not entail sleep.  Well, maybe a small nap…

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Spending the greater part of the afternoon at An Bang Beach, I waded into the clear green waters, read and had a nice ham and cheese baguettes from one of the many restaurants that lined the beach.  The peace and tranquility were just what I needed that day.

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Gathering up my belongings, I walked along the beachfront, my toes leaving prints behind me and admiring the small round woven bamboo baskets boats that filled the beach.  Finally, with the sun getting lower in the sky, it was time to go.  I retrieved my bicycle and made my way back the way I had come, past the restaurants, over the bridge and back to the long field lined road.

imageWith daylight waning, I stopped to admire two fishermen in a small pond, gathering their catch and then further along, noticed an odd sight.  On the headland between two fields, a farmer was reclining on the back of one of his water buffaloes.  Such a strikingly beautiful picture, I quickly jumped off my bike and braved the oncoming traffic to get to the other side of the road.  Fastening my telephoto lens, I snapped as many pictures as I could before he jumped off to attend to other duties.

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Arriving at my hotel, I realized that for the first time since I had landed in Vietnam, I felt relaxed and rejuvenated.  Such a beautiful place, Hoi An offers a vast amount of history and the ability to enjoy the natural environment.  Sitting on the waterfront, enjoying a lovely dinner and a LaRue beer,  I relived the day’s events…I made a new friend, traversed the waters of the Tru Bon River, marveled at the boat making and fishing skills of the local people, made my way through the countryside and sunk my toes into the sands and waters of the East Vietnam Sea.  What more could you ask for?

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Mr. Seo Tours

  • Boat Number:  QNa 0572
  • Mobile:  01288 550 448
  • Bach Dang Street, Hoi An, Quong Nam, Vietnam

An Bang Beach