Category: United States

The Whole Ball of Wax

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Fog is often a problem in coastal areas and it seems that St. Augustine gets its fair share of foggy mornings and evenings.

Setting out early on my last day, the plan was to visit Castillo de San Marcos National Monument, however, as I made my way towards the historic district, I noticed that the fort was barely visible in the pea-soup-like gloom. Thinking about the photographs that I had hoped to capture, I decided that this point of interest might have to wait until later when the haze had dissipated and the sun was high above, illuminating the old structure.

But what could occupy me in the meantime?

Walking away from the waterfront area, I happened upon Potter’s Wax Museum. I had already visited the statue of Henry Flagler which has a seat of honor on the sidewalk in front of the museum. To be honest, the museum wasn’t at the top of my list of things that I really wanted to see, but as I checked the hourly weather forecast and realized that the fog was going to be here for a little while, I decided that it was good as anything else to occupy my time.

Having visited Madame Tussaud’s in London, Amsterdam and Las Vegas, I knew the caliber of these attractions. Did I expect to see the same quality of art in this building that is the oldest pharmacy in the United States? Probably not, but the oldest wax museum in the United States inside of the oldest pharmacy in the United States was probably worth a look!

The small lobby is the ticket office for the wax museum but it should be given a few minutes inspection before continuing. A collection of ancient medications and medical objects are housed in two large glass cases…elixirs to cure headaches, malaria, and fevers to pharmaceutical scales, mortars and pestles, an old cracked leather doctor’s bag and a faded eye chart. There is also a rustic memorial to Seminole Indian Chief Tolomato as well as a wide variety of souvenirs filling the space.

A photo of George L. Potter, the museum’s founder, greets visitors as they enter the museum portion of the building. Fascinated by wax figures he encountered on a visit to London as a child, it was his dream to create this attraction in 1949. Instead of the celebrities that are commonly seen in the grand wax museums today, he set out to preserve the likenesses of great American leaders, statesmen and significant historical figures. Combining waxes from France, hair from Italy and the most skilled artisans, he sought to give the American public what Europeans had at their fingertips. The first figures were produced in Belgium and shipped to the old dispensary on Orange Street where they still reside today.

The historical figures still make up a large part of the museum, however, in addition to American presidents, past and present composers and musicians, artists, innovators, soldiers, kings and queens, there was a smidgen of current celebrities. It was fun to see their likenesses up close, pose for pictures and pretend I was actually standing in their presence.

The Chamber of Horrors in the rear of the museum, not for the faint of heart, housed a collection of those that graced the screens of the most horrifying movies to date…Frankenstein, Freddy Krueger, the Creature From the Black Lagoon, to name a few and in the adjacent room, our favorite Star Wars characters lined up for photo opportunities.

While my visit only lasted about an hour, it was enlightening and the enjoyment I experienced most unexpected. Hoping only to find something to help me pass the time, I actually found a gem. The intimacy of Potter’s museum was a contradiction to what I had experienced in London, Amsterdam and Las Vegas and I can see why it attracts thousands of visitors each year.

George Potter gave us the whole ball of wax and then some!

Finally bidding a farewell to some of Florida’s royalty and founders, I headed out into the late morning to find the fog lifting and the Castillo visible against a backdrop of the waters of Matanzas Bay. No wax figures along the waterfront, but definitely lots of history!

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Potter’s Wax Museum

  • https://www.potterswaxmuseum.com/
  • Address: 31 Orange Street, St. Augustine, Florida 32084
  • Hours: 0900-1700, daily
  • Admission: Adults, $12.13, Children (ages 4-12), $7.07, Children (under 3 years), free

A Tale of Three Hotels

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Throughout St. Augustine’s historic district, there are a great number of historic buildings that any tourist must seek out! But there are three hotels that date back to the city’s establishment as a destination for the rich and famous!

When Henry Flagler, millionaire American industrialist, founder of Standard Oil and the Florida East Coast Railway, arrived in St. Augustine in 1883 with his new wife, they found the hotel facilities and transportation systems to be inadequate. Flager, intrigued by the beautiful Villa Zorayda, offered to buy it for his honeymoon but was turned down by the owner, Franklin W. Smith. Determined to offer travelers a unique place to rest their head and enjoy the city, he began construction on the Ponce de Leon Hotel, which was completed in 1887.

The Spanish Renaissance hotel was the first of its kind, constructed of poured concrete and coquina stone and was one of the first buildings wired with electricity from the onset. The hotel was a huge success and shortly thereafter, Flagler opened the equally exquisite Alcazar across the street to accommodate the overflow of guests.

Each of the hotels attracted notable personalities including President Grover Cleveland, Mark Twain, President Theodore Roosevelt and Babe Ruth.

As Flagler expanded his railway line further south over the years, St. Augustine gave way to West Palm Beach and Miami as winter destinations, both offering warmer weather year-round. Due to travelers venturing further south, both hotels slowly succumbed to the decline in business and closed, eventually with the buildings being used for various purposes during the years after.

In 1968, the Ponce de Leon hotel became the centerpiece of the newly established Flagler College. Construction began in 1976 to restore the Ponce de Leon to its original grandeur and in 1998, the College began offering guided historic tours. It was added to the U.S. National Register of Historic Places in 1975 and became a U.S. National Historic Landmark in 2006.

The Alcazar, opened in 1889, was constructed in the Moorish-Spanish style with 300 guest rooms, Turkish and Russian baths, a magnificent casino, tennis courts and the largest indoor swimming pool in the nation. Closed in 1932, due to the national economic depression, it was purchased by Chicago publisher, Otto C. Lightner in 1947. Lightner converted the building into a hobbies museum which housed several collections, including his own extensive collection of Victorian era art. It was turned over to the city of St. Augustine and it was opened to the public in 1948.

While I had hoped to take the tour of Flagler College to see the former Ponce de Leon Hotel, I arrived to find that tours were temporarily suspended to the Covid restrictions. Sadly, I was only able to admire the exterior of the many buildings that make up Flagler College, however, this was not entirely a bad thing as it is like no other that I have ever seen. The buildings are quite beautiful as well as the immaculate grounds upon which they are situated.

Crossing the street to admire the Lightner Museum, I found the exact opposite situation. I had not planned to visit the museum, which was open, but I had learned through my Old Town Trolley tour guide that if a complete visit was not in your plan, then you at least needed to take a look at the courtyard, which is free to the public. What she said was most accurate…the building is an architectural wonder, but the courtyard is equally magnificent and lush with palm trees and fountains and worthy of a look. It is easy to imagine it in its heyday when it lured celebrities and noteworthy visitors.

After capturing some amazing photos of Flagler’s two stunning architectural gems, I headed across Cordova Street to admire the Casa Monica Hotel. This hotel was built by Franklin Smith in 1988, to whom Henry Flagler sold the land. After only four months of operation, Smith sold the hotel to Flagler, who renamed it the Cordova Hotel. He connected it to the Alcazar via a bridge in 1902. Eventually it fell victim to the Great Depression and closed. It was reopened by Richard Kessler in 1997 and renamed the Casa Monica Resort and Spa.

Though I wasn’t able to gaze upon the interiors of any of these historic hotels, I was content to inspect all of their exteriors and appreciate their prodigious architectural features. There are so many historic buildings throughout the city, but these are three that should not be missed!

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Flagler College

Lightener Museum

  • https://lightnermuseum.org
  • Address:  75 King Street, St. Augustine, Florida 32084
  • Hours: 0900-1700, daily
  • Admission: Adults, $17.00, Youth (ages 12-17 years), $10.00, Children (ages 11 and under), free, College Student, $14.00, Military, $14.00, Seniors (ages 65+), $14.00

Casa Monica Resort and Spa

The Churches of St. Augustine

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As I hopped on the St. Augustine’s Old Town Trolley to begin my tour of the city, I was excited for the frequent stops and to see many of the historic churches scattered throughout the city. Many of these churches were not open, however, being able to gaze upon the architecture of these sanctuaries was worth the ride.

Grace United Methodist Church, located on Carrera Street, looked a little familiar…not because I had been there before, but because it had the same appearance as the Ponce de Leon Hotel. Indeed, Henry Flagler built the church in 1887 in the Spanish Renaissance Revival style, using the same builders and architects of the historic hotel. The church was built to replace the wood-constructed Olivet Methodist Church, which stood on the site Flagler wanted for the up-coming Alcazar Hotel and it was donated to the people of the city. It is currently listed on the U.S. National Register of Historic Places.

A little further down the street, I found the Ancient City Baptist Church. Though not as ornate as Grace United, it offered a rather stately appearance on the corner of Carrera and Sevilla Streets. Dating back to 1887, the church was finally built in 1894, when Henry Flagler offered the charter members a parcel of land at no charge but with a few stipulations…the property could not be mortgaged, a bell could not be placed in the tower and the building had to be completed within two years. The Romanesque Revival church was completed after a year’s time and has served the community ever since.

Heading down a block south, I found a magnificent piece of architecture, the Memorial Presbyterian Church. Now, if I found Grace United to be familiar, I most certainly felt some deja vu when I stood in the front of this church. Florida’s first and oldest Presbyterian congregation, Memorial was established in June 1824, completed in 1890 and also designed in the Spanish Renaissance Revival style. What made it so familiar to me, however, was that I have a visited a famous church much like it…in Venice, Italy. Memorial Presbyterian Church was based on the Basilica of St. Mark and also built by the architects of the Ponce de Leon hotel by Henry Flagler. I would have loved to have seen its interior, but due to restrictions, it was not open at the time. I contented myself with a walk around the grounds, admiring each and every angle of this prestigious sanctuary.

As I finally made my way to Plaza de la Constitution, I came upon the petite Trinity Parish Episcopal Church. This church was also not open, but it made for a beautiful photo subject situated on the square on the corner of King and Saint George Streets. The church building was completed in 1831, is the oldest Protestant church in Florida and is known for having some of the oldest and most beautiful stained glass windows in the Episcopal Diocese of Florida.

At long last, I made my way across the plaza to the church that I most wanted to see, the Cathedral Basilica of St. Augustine. Thankfully arriving during its limited opening hours, I was able to inspect both the exterior the interior of Cathedral. Built in the Spanish Mission style (appropriating from St. Augustine’s inception) it is the oldest Catholic Church in the city and the seat of the Bishop of the Diocese of St. Augustine. First established in 1565, the church was built during the years of 1793 to 1797 and designated a U.S. National Historic Landmark. It is the oldest Christian congregation in the contiguous United States.

As I walked throughout the structure, I admired the burnt orange ceiling with its darkened wood trusses. Exquisite murals lined the walls depicting scenes from the history of the Catholic Church in the development of the New World and scenes from the life of Saint Augustine of Hippo. The stained glass windows were exquisite and allowed a filtering of light which highlighted the gold leafed statuary on the main altar and the orange and blue tile floor was extraordinary. One of the most unique cathedrals I have ever set foot in, I felt as though I should be in another country.

Hopping back on the Old Town Trolley, I finally set my sights on some of the other historical structures of the city.

Prayer time was over…

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Grace United Methodist Church

  • https://gracestaugustine.org
  • Address: 8 Carrera St, St. Augustine, Florida 32084-3622
  • Hours: Tours of sanctuary from 1300-1500, most weekday afternoons
  • Admission: Free

Ancient City Baptist Church

Memorial Presbyterian Church

  • https://memorialpcusa.org/
  • Address: 32 Sevilla Street, Saint Augustine, Florida 32084
  • Hours: Visitors are welcome to take a self-guided tour of the church from 1100-1545, Monday through Saturday.
  • Admission: Free

Trinity Episcopal Church

  • https://trinitysta.org
  • Address: 215 St George St, Saint Augustine, Florida 32084, United States
  • Hours: Unknown
  • Admission: Free

Cathedral Basilica of St. Augustine

Shrine Surprise

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Having visited Our Lady of La Leche Shrine and on my way to making a stop at each of St. Augustine’s illustrious churches on the trolley tour, it should be no surprise to anyone that I would seek out a small Greek Orthodox Shrine in the heart of the historic district.

Although I knew that this shrine was dedicated to Saint Photios the Great (Feast Day February 6), the Ecumenical Patriarch of Constantinople (middle of the ninth century) and to the first colony of Greek people who came to America in 1768, I was not sure what I was going to find on St. George Street. I wandered inside, finding no entrance fee and a small courtyard. Following the walkway to a pair of plain grey doors, I heaved one open and stepped inside.

At first glance, I was a bit underwhelmed. A large sterile room with glass cases housing ornaments filled the room and photographs graced the walls. But as I turned right, color caught my eye.

An archway led to a little chapel decorated in the most magnificent manner. Each of its interior arches was trimmed intricately in gold leaf and the ceilings and alcoves contained Byzantine style frescoes of Greek apostles and saints. Unlike anything I have ever seen, even during my travels abroad, it was no surprise that it has been described as the “Jewel of St. George Street.”

Thankfully, I was alone for quite some time and I was able to absorb every little detail including an altar and a lectern and inspect each of the stunning frescoes before making way for other visitors.

Exhibits within the museum depict the life of early Greeks in America and the development of the Greek Orthodox Church in America. The displays tell the story of the First Greek colony in the New World through various artifacts, photographs and historical documents. Of particular interest was a black and white photographic exhibit on the inhabitants of Mount Athos by Nikos Vatopoulos. There was also another smaller photographic collection by Peter C. Yalanis detailing Greek ruins just before heading the gift shop filled with religious treasures.

Although I had been excited to seek out the numerous churches in the city, this shrine took me by surprise. Much to my delight, I found a stunning piece of architecture hidden away in the center of the historic district. Now that my religious interest had been sparked by Our Lady of La Leche shrine and this amazing chapel, I was excited to set out and see the city’s other holy sites!

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St. Photios Greek Orthodox National Shrine

  • https://stphotios.org/
  • Address: 41 St. George Street, St. Augustine, FL, 32084
  • Hours: Daily, 1100-1700
  • Admission: Free, donations accepted

Old School

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Many years ago, I remember sitting in my first-grade Catholic-school classroom listening to Sister Mary Marshall play songs to help us recall vocabulary, spelling and mathematics. Sitting next to my friend, Nina, we watched our teacher write on the giant chalkboards in her neat “nun” handwriting and cowered from her wrath when we were caught misbehaving!

Although our school was relatively small, it was gigantic compared to the some of the first schools established in the United States.

After the first settlements were founded, eventually, the need arose for the children’s education. Small one-room schoolhouses were built and a teacher was brought in to deliver instruction. Since there was a small number of children, all ages were taught together.

Although the Oldest Wooden School House, located in St. Augustine’s historic district, only dates back to the early 18th century and was by no means the first, it does hold the title of the “oldest” as it is the only one still standing. No other wooden structures in the city, built prior to 1702, remain as the British burned St. Augustine to the ground during that year.

The Oldest Wooden School House was built for the Genopoly family in the Minorcan Quarter. It was a single-story building made of cypress and red cedar and had a detached kitchen and a privy. The first schoolteacher, Juan Genopoly, eventually commissioned a second story to guarantee privacy for himself and his family.

Today, visitors enter through the gift shop and pay the admission fee. From the gift shop they step into the quaint walled-in garden and observe the many statues of international educators, the old school bell in the corner of the courtyard and a 250-year-old pecan tree which still bears fruit.

After my walk through the garden, I took a peek inside of the kitchen and learned that it was not used as a cafeteria, but as the location where the teachers whipped up their own meals for themselves and their family. Students brought their own “lunch pails” and the kitchen was built as a separate entity to avoid unnecessarily heating the schoolhouse or catching it on fire.

Turning to find the entrance to the schoolhouse, I stepped inside, taking care to monitor the uneven floorboards. The two rooms on either side were decorated in the style of the time and it was evident that one was used as an office for Teacher Genopoly.

Passing into the main room, I observed the small, narrow stairway leading up to the family’s main living and sleeping quarters and the small space underneath the stairs which demonstrated “the dungeon” where unruly students were placed for punishment. To the right was the main space where instruction took place around the fireplace.

In long showcases along the back wall, there are many artifacts, including old textbooks and school supplies from the eighteenth century and a list of the last class which attended school there in 1864.

As I ventured closer to the students, I wondered how they were segregated for learning purposes and observed how the dunce cap was used not on the head of the ill-behaved child, as I had thought, but the head of the slow learner. Although it was a common practice, it was not one that I thought was fair.

And with that, my time visiting the Oldest Wooden School House was complete.

Short and sweet, yet very educational…for me and for those who came before me…both visitors and students…I really enjoyed this American Treasure, such an important part of St. Augustine’s past.

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Oldest Wooden Schoolhouse

  • Address: 14 St. George Street, St. Augustine, Florida, 32084
  • Hours: Sunday through Thursday, 1000-1700, Friday and Saturday, 1000-1900
  • Admission: Adult, $5.00, Students (ages 6-12), $4.00, Children (under 5), free

The Heart of the City

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Sitting on a bench in a plaza, far, far away, I enjoy watching the citizens of the city come together. Older people sit on benches watching the children run and play. Patrons sip their lattes in outdoor cafes and sample the local cuisine. Vendors sell their wares and the old cathedral keeps watch over the entire setting, marking the hour with the tone of a mighty bell.

This scene can be found throughout many cities in the world. A few U.S. cities have town squares but being such a young country and one that tried to set itself apart, town squares are just not as prevalent.

Although everyone is familiar with the landing at Jamestown in 1607, many don’t realize that the oldest city in the United States had already been in existence since 1565, when the Jamestown settlers made their way ashore.

St. Augustine.

Plaza de la Constitution, the heart of St. Augustine, was established in 1573 by the Spanish Royal Ordinances and is the oldest public park in the United States.

When designed, the requirement was put in place that the plaza be oriented toward the primary compass points with a length equal to one and one-half times its width. Public and government buildings and churches were constructed facing the plaza and it was the place where the citizens of St. Augustine came to do business and meet their neighbors.

As I made a plan to see all of St. Augustine’s sights, one of the first things I noticed was Plaza de la Constitution. Thinking fondly of all the time I had spent abroad, enjoying the architecture and action of many plazas, piazzas, squares and parks (Piazza Navona in Rome, St. Mark’s Square in Venice, Plaza Mayor in Madrid, Plaza de Mayo in Buenos Aires, Trafalgar Square in London…just to name a few!) I knew that it would be the best place to start my explorations of the landmarks in the Old Town.

Among some of the sites within the park that I discovered were the old public well, which dates back to the 1600s, a pavilion used for city events and live entertainment, a monument to Confederate veterans, a 19th century monument to the Spanish Constitution of 1812 and the historic marketplace structure where the citizens of St. Augustine went to purchase their food and much needed items. Today, the market is no longer in operation, but the square is surrounded by numerous restaurants and shops. I was even offered a free banana as I walked into the park…by a PETA group hoping to bring awareness to pet cruelty!

After I walked through the park, languishing in the shade of the mossy oaks, I made my way to the front of the park and the spot that Juan Ponce de Leon landed near in 1513, marked by a statue on Ponce de Leon Circle at the entrance to the Bridge of Lions. Not only did I have a great view of the statue and of the old marketplace building, but of the mighty oak trees that stand at attention in the park.

The Public Market

There are many historic structures that surround the plaza, including the historic Government House, built from 1706-1713, which served as the home of the Florida’s Spanish governors and as the capitol of the Florida Territory in 1823.

The Government House

The exchange of flags took place in the plaza when Florida was transferred from Spain to the United States. Meetings were held in this location on the eve of the Civil War and Union Navy Officers crossed the park in 1862 when they reclaimed the city from the Confederates.

The Treasury on the Plaza

Also sitting on the plaza are two churches, Trinity Parish Episcopal Church, (established 1763-1783) and the Cathedral Basilica of St. Augustine (constructed 1793-1797), which was designated a National Historic Landmark in 1970 and is the oldest Catholic Church in the city and the seat of the Bishop of the Diocese of St. Augustine. The basilica’s awe-inspiring mission architecture is hard to miss, towering over the plaza.

Trinity Episcopal Church
The Cathedral Basilica of St. Augustine

Although it would have been easy to grab a seat on one of the plaza’s benches and watch the world go by, there was just too much to see and do.

How could I see it all?

I exited the park, picked a street and started walking!

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Plaza de la Constitution

  • Address: 170 St. George Street, St. Augustine, Florida 32084
  • Hours: 24 hours, daily
  • Admission: free

America’s Most Sacred Acre

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When I am traveling, if there is a religious shrine, graveyard or church, I will find it.

It’s even easier if it’s across the street from my hotel!

When I arrived in St. Augustine, the weather was less than optimum. Foggy and rainy, it just wasn’t the way I wanted to start my trip. As the day wore on, however, there was some improvement.

As I walked out of my hotel, I could see the top of an extremely large cross amidst the fog in the distance; the Mission Nombre de Dios (Name of God) and the Shrine of Our Lady de La Leche. Though I really wanted to start my explorations of this historic mission, I decided to temporarily put it on hold, praying for a nicer day.

The next morning, it was still a bit foggy but much better than the previous day. Crossing San Marco Avenue, I entered the gates and headed to the far end of the property to where the immense cross soars over the waters of the Matanzas River. The Great Cross, a 208-foot-high structure constructed of stainless steel, was built in 1965 to commemorate the 400th anniversary of the first parish Catholic Mass and is fronted by an 11-foot statue which depicts Father Francisco Lopez de Mendoza, the first parish priest of St. Augustine.

In 1565, General Don Pedro Menendez de Aviles was sent by Spain to drive out the French Huguenots and establish the oldest permanent European settlement in what is now the United States. Father Mendoza, the chaplain of Menendez’ ship, offered a Mass of Thanksgiving on September 8, 1565, the day the Spanish arrived, with a roughly constructed altar and observed by the native Timucuans. Following mass, Pedro Menendez hosted a feast for his companions and the natives, an act that many describe as being the first Thanksgiving, contrary to what we have been taught. Today, on the site of the original altar, you will spot a newer recreation.

Dating back to the establishment of our great nation, these grounds are often described as America’s Most Sacred Acre. The Shrine is the oldest Marian Shrine in the United States and was recently elevated to a National Shrine by the U.S. Conference of Catholic Bishops.

I moved slowly, relishing in the serenity of the area and walked the well-maintained paths and walkways of the mission grounds. Passing the modest cemetery, I made my way to the small chapel. A beautiful vine-covered, stone and masonry sanctuary, it was built in 1967 by St. Augustine Governor Hita Y Salazar and housed an exquisitely detailed carved statue of Mary nursing the baby Jesus. It was the first devotion to Mary in the United States and was brought from Spain in the early 1600s. This chapel was bombed by the Spanish troops in 1728, during a battle with British soldiers who were attempting the seizure of St. Augustine, rebuilt in 1875 and restored after an especially turbulent storm season in 1914.

Other items of interest are the gravesites of six of the Sisters of St. Joseph who came to St. Augustine to teach the liberated slaves, the Stations of the Cross, an unknown formation (most likely the base for a religious monument), a bell tower, and statues of St. Francis of Assisi and St. Joseph.

After my exploration of the grounds was complete, I headed across the bridge to the front of the property. Finding the museum still closed, I ventured into the larger shrine church. Housing a replica of the original statue, I found the church to be quaint, yet modern, with its interestingly arranged colorful stained-glass windows. In the front of the church, a small room, devoted to Our Lady of Fatima, offers a modest place of prayer.

Finally, I made my way back to the now open Gift Shop/Museum and began making my way through the museum. The woman working behind the desk came and joined me and gave me a brief overview of the items in the small gallery.

Items of interest include an interesting diorama of the celebration of the first mass, important documents including a letter written by Pedro Menendez de Aviles, dated October 15, 1565, liturgical vestments and a statue of St. Francis Borgia. The most important artifact, however, is the original outer coffin in which Pedro Menedez de Aviles was buried. The coffin, encased and protected by glass, was presented to the Mission by the city of Aviles, where the remains of Menendez are still interred.

If I had had more time, I would have liked to have returned for mass at noon, however, since there were so many other places to visit within the city, I had to be content to offer up some early prayers and continue on my way. Stepping out of the museum, I realized that the fog had burned off and the sun was now shining brightly. Yes, there were other things I needed to see that day, however, I took one last stroll across the mission’s lake for another glimpse at Father Mendoza and the Great Cross.

Truly one of the most historic and meaningful temples that I have ever visited in the United States and possibly the world, it is recommended that all visitors to St. Augustine take some time to visit this holy site.

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Shrine of Our Lady of La Leche and Mission Nombre de Dios

  • https://missionandshrine.org/
  • Address: 101 San Marco Avenue, St. Augustine, Florida 32084
  • Hours: Monday-Saturday, 0900-1700, Sunday, 1200-1600. Mass Monday thru Saturday, 1200 and 1330.
  • Admission: Free, donation box available. Free parking.

The Old City Gates

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Although visitors to St. Augustine today are free to drive through or walk around the oldest part of the city, it wasn’t always this way. 

In the beginning, there was only one way in.

After a devastating attack by the British in 1702, the city of St. Augustine made the decision to fortify its outer rims.  One hundred and fifty years old at the time, the city began constructing earthen walls from the Castillo to the San Sebastián river, completely surrounding the city. Several large redoubts were added and supplied with artillery and ammunition.  Still not satisfied with their own safety, an additional wall, the Rosario Line, was added on the western part of town.  

Although some deterioration has taken place over time, as you approach the North end of St. George Street, you can still spy the Santo Domingo redoubt and the earthen walls.

The most striking part of that approach, however, is the old city gates, still standing strong.  Built of almost indestructible coquina, they once marked the only entrance into St. Augustine.  Today, you can access the old city from many points, however, this rough and weathered entryway still welcomes visitors who come to shop, dine and see the old city, with a picturesque approach.

If ghost stories are of interest to you, one you might hear is that of Elizabeth, a young girl who succumbed to the one adversary that the city’s fortifications could not keep out…a murderer…yellow fever. 

Elizabeth’s body was found abandoned at the very spot tourists today pose for selfies, the city gates.

As the deadly plague spread throughout the city, residents cowered while watching relatives and neighbors succumb in great numbers, fearing that this scourge would claim them as well. These bodies were removed from the city’s boundaries and buried in the Huguenot cemetery across the street from the city’s entry point.  This Protestant burial ground, in use from 1821 until 1884, was where the unclaimed body of Elizabeth was taken and interred.

While during the day, wandering near the gates and the cemetery might seem harmless enough, you might think otherwise when the fog rolls in from the bay during the darkest hours of night.

Ghost tours, a popular attraction, sometimes lead their customers near these gates after dark, but beware.

Perhaps you will spot the clientele and their guide.

But if you see a lone visitor…one in a simple white dress…you might have to wonder if its Elizabeth trying to find her way back in.

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Old City Gates

The County Clink

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In an old town, one expects to find old things.

An old tree, An old jail. An old store.

As I ventured north on San Marco Avenue in St. Augustine, after viewing the Old Senator, my intention had been to quickly check out the old jail site before heading to the historic downtown. What I found, however, was an attraction called Old Town which encompasses the Old Jail, the Oldest Museum Store and the Old Town Trolley depot.

Sensing that this was going to be a longer than anticipated visit, I headed over to the ticket booth to purchase admission for the attractions. With tickets in hand, not only for the jail and the store, but for the St. Augustine History Museum and the Old Town Trolley (for two days), I pondered what I would encounter.

Making my way to a marked area in front of the old jail building, I was intrigued by two “prisoners” who engaged those of us waiting. As they robbed us of information…where we were from…they also gave us an overview of what we could expect on our tour.

The Old Jail

Bringing us back to the year 1891, we were versed on Henry Flagler, the founder of the Florida East Coast Railway (which ironically was built through convict leasing), who had just opened the Ponce de Leon Hotel. Although he desired a secure place for the criminals of the city, it was important to him that this building not detract from the majestic atmosphere of the city. A jailhouse, designed by P.J. Pauley Jail Company who built Alcatraz, was designed to appear as a Victorian house from the outside…the inside was a different matter. This jail was built away from the downtown area and served the city until 1953.

At the rear of the building, we first encountered the gallows, the menacing site of the hangings of numerous violent criminals. Entering the jailhouse, we experienced both women’s and men’s cells as well as the maximum security area. The jailhouse also encompasses the sheriff’s office and living quarters…a little too close for comfort (to the inmates) in my opinion!

The Gallows

While it was interesting to see the interior of this beautiful structure, what made the tour special was our guide Bobalew. His exuberant tales of life behind bars as well the inmates’ stories were intriguing and he was wonderful in character, truly one of the most wonderful tour guides I have ever encountered! After the tour, we spoke and I learned that being a “convict” is his retirement job. I don’t know what he did before retirement, however, I think that Bobalew finally found his calling!

After taking a peek at the historic Mary Peck House, adjacent to the jail, I headed over to the St. Augustine History Museum. While not an extensive space, it is tightly packed with a great number of artifacts and declares St. Augustine’s long and rich history.

Finishing up in the adjoining gift shop, I perused the large number of city specific souvenirs. Walking out with a beer koozie and a hat, I crossed the courtyard and took a seat, waiting for the next tour of the Old Store Museum to begin.

While I don’t normally like to be in the last tour group of the day, in this instance, the last tour was the one to aspire to. After greeting the wooden Indian at the door, the tour guide led me (and only me) through the old general store, staying in character and using her charm to sell me the goods that were once peddled here during its heydey…think coffee grinders, seeds, spices and fabrics. Dimly lit and filled to capacity, it was an excellent recreation where one can almost feel like they have been transported back to the turn of the century.

The Wiles Houses, dating back to 1899, were moved to Old Town from their current location in St. Augustine and connected. Though this was not the original general store, it is a recreation of what a general store looked like during the time and filled with a large collection of early American antiques salvaged from the Oldest Store attraction, once located on Artillery Street. While the front was filled with the most basic necessities, the rear building had a huge display of small machinery and had it not been the end of the day, I could have stayed and perused every nook and corner!

Finally, with attractions closing up for the day, I walked across the parking lot to the Hildreth House (1870) which houses The Spice and Tea Exchange and the 1910 Cracker House which is being restored as a historic house museum in which Cracker life in early Florida will be interpreted. Neither building was open, however, I was led to History Walk path, a boardwalk which chronicles St. Augustine’s settlement history through signage along the way. There was a convict train car on display as well as convict statues along the avenue. Displayed here to attract passersby attention, they are great for photo opportunities!

While I did not make it to the historic district on this afternoon, I was glad that I had stumbled upon the Old Town attraction. For first time visitors to St. Augustine, it is a great place to start your exploration of the old city’s history!

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Old Town

  • https://www.visitstaugustine.com/thing-to-do/old-jail
  • Address: 167 San Marco Avenue, St. Augustine, Florida 32084
  • Hours: 0900-1630, daily. Tours start every 20 minutes.
  • Admission: Adults, $13.83, Children (ages 6-12), $7.44, Children (under 6 years), free. Free parking onsite.

The Oldest Resident

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Florida is known for its large population of seniors. Not high schoolers mind you…

Senior citizens!

The sunny days and warm weather offer good health and vitality, so many opt to move to the golden state their during their “golden” years.

I would imagine that even with the most outstanding weather, most residents don’t make it past their 100th birthday, however, so if I told you that St. Augustine has a resident much older than that, you probably would not believe me, right?

Would you believe 600 years old?

In the parking lot of the Villa 1565 Hotel, stands St. Augustine’s oldest resident…the Old Senator. No government politician, this senator stands over 56 feet tall, has a girth of over 21 feet and could tell many stories about St. Augustine’s history and people.

While most people are aware of gigantic sequoias of California, some of the largest trees in the world, not all realize how large live oak trees can maturate…well, maybe us southerners do, as we have grown up with them towering over our yards. This one, however, is probably the most impressive I have even laid eyes on.

Crossing paths with this giant while returning from the Fountain of Youth Archaeological Park, I was awed by its enormous size. Its torso is enclosed by a small gate and a wooden frame has been constructed, allowing for pictures with the tree’s trunk. While it is impressive to stand near its base and think about how many arms’ lengths it would take to make it all the way around, I think that it is much more impressive to stand back, inside of the parking lot, and observe how far reaching this behemoth’s limbs stretch.

While it is within the confines of the Villa 1565 Hotel, you will only have to fight for observation rights with the occasional trolley from Old Town Trolley Tours making stop number 21.

Go pay your respects and listen closely when the wind causes its leaves to whisper. You just might learn something.

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Facebook, @snappingtheglobe.

The Old Senator

  • Address: Villa 1565 Hotel, 137 San Marco Avenue, St. Augustine, FL, 32084
  • Hours: 24 hours, daily
  • Admission: free