Category: Milan

The Grand Old Opera

©2020 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Recently, I mentioned the word aria to my son.

He thought I was talking about the hotel in Vegas…sigh.

Many of the younger generation do not have much of an interest in opera. In fact, looking for activities in Nashville, I overheard a teen, who thought the Grand Ole Opry was an opera theater, expressly state to her parents that she would not be involved in that outing. A few years ago, it was with a determined effort that I dragged my thirteen year old to the Opera Theater in Madrid. When he ventured inside, however, he realized that he didn’t have to listen to songs in a language that he was not familiar with and yet, he became fascinated with the elaborate decor and the workings of the stage. Truly, there is something for everyone, not just the performances themselves.

For years, I have visited opera houses in cities throughout the world, yet with all of my visits to Milan, I have never taken the time to seek out a performance at the most famous opera house in the world…Teatro alla Scala.

As a former architecture and interior design student, there is nothing more fulfilling than seeing these gilded, golden-tasseled, velvet covered theaters that have hosted some of the world’s outstanding vocal talents.

After finally considering the idea of booking a performance for the evening at La Scala and discovering that I probably had not brought the proper attire, I discovered that jeans and a sweater would get me into their museum and if I timed it perfectly, I might even get a peek at the stage from one of the boxes.

Making my way to the theater, I was surprised to find a line snaking its way into the small square to the left of the famed building. Keeping an eye on the time, I knew there was a small window when rehearsals ended and the theater would be open for viewing. Finally, with tickets in hand, I was ushered inside and up the stairs to the large, columned, church-like foyer, where crowds gather before and during intermissions. It is not surprising that this space has the feel of a church…La Scala, dating back to the 1700’s, was built on the location of the church of Santa Maria alla Scala, after which it was named. Much like the treasures that can be found in a holy temple, there were beautiful chandeliers, busts of famous composers (Pucini and Toscanini) and a model of La Scala.

The doors to the theater were finally opened and I was given a number to a box that was available. Though I wish I would have had the box to myself, it was awe-inspiring to stand in this small space, looking out over the elaborate theater with its tiers of balconies and Murano chandelier and imagine witnessing one of the timeless operas being performed on the stage, in front of crowds of over two thousand.

After many minutes of drinking in this spectacle and realizing that others were trying to make their way in, I reluctantly vacated my spot along the balcony and headed back thru the foyer.

The museum, though only eight rooms, is brimming with paintings, busts, statuettes and many objects used during past performances and contain great historical value.

Though I am sure a guide would have pointed out the most relevant of the contents, there were interactive screens which described the rooms’ pieces and each of the rooms, I discovered, is dedicated to a different era in the theater’s history.

Beautiful portraits bedecked the walls in the room dedicated to the legendary sopranos of La Scala who drew crowds of admirers and another room was dedicated to Giuseppe Verdi, the composer who was very influential to the art and who passed away next door at the Grand Hotel et de Milan. Of course, no opera museum would be complete without paying reverence to the greatest soprano of the mid-20th century, Maria Callas. The gallery boasts a beautiful portrait of her, sitting on a chair next to a portrait of her arch-rival, Renata Tebaldi!

I’m sure my sons have no inkling of who Maria Callas is, but I have to admit that I learned a lot more about opera during my visit to La Scala, sparking a yearning to finally see a performance during my lifetime!

I also learned that next time I need to pack something nicer than a sweater and jeans!  

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Museo Teatrale alla Scala

  • http://www.museoscala.org/en/
  • Address: Largo Ghiringhelli 1, Piazza Scala, 20121, Milano
  • Hours: 0900-1730, daily (last admission, 1700). Closed on December 7, 24, 25, January 1, Easter, May 1, August 15.
  • Admission: Adults, €9, Students over 12 years, €6, Ages over 65, €6, Children under 12, free. Open ticket €12, good for admission on the day of your choice (until Dec 31, 2020), with fast track.

The House of the Strong Men

©2020 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Milan has some stunning architecture.

Sometimes, I just love to walk around the city photographing the buildings, never having a plan and enjoying stumbling upon anything and everything.

Just recently, I was in search of a particular landmark and was a bit stumped. As I stood on the corner of Via degli Omenoni and Via Adalberto Catena, pondering which way to go, I glanced down the street and a remarkable building caught my eye. There were giant men holding up the facade! Well, not real men…stone men!

A nearby sign gave me the information that I needed…this was Casa degli Omenoni.

Casa degli Omenoni was designed by sculptor Leone Leoni as his place of residence during the 16th century. The sculptor, known for his bronze statues of Felipe II and Carlos V (which now can be found in the Prado Museum) conceived the idea for his home and place of work, however, the “omenoni” or “big men” were sculpted by Antonio Abondio, a renowned artist of the time.

Though the interior once contained a large inventory of paintings and other works of art, including the Codex Atlanticus, a book of drawings by Leonardo da Vinci, these treasures are now preserved in museums throughout the world.

Eventually sold by Leoni’s son, the home was owned by several notable Milanese families, used as the seat of a music-publishing company, the seat of a Fascist party and as a theater. Although the interior was renovated in both the 19th and 20th centuries, the facade remains largely unchanged except for the addition of the wrought iron balconies.

The exterior of the building was quite fascinating with the eight giants gracing the spaces between the windows and flanking the door frames. The men look quite ominous with scowls upon their faces and arms crossed. Honestly, I don’t think an intruder would dare to approach this residence with these wardens protecting the entrance!

You should, however, approach! Much like the “Monster House” in Rome, Casa degli Omenoni is an exquisite piece of architecture and a quick stop on your tour of Milan!

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Casa degli Omenoni

  • Address: Via degli Omenoni, 3, 20121,
  • Hours: 24 hours
  • Admission: Exterior free. Interior not open to public.
  • Getting There: A quick walk from La Scala, located behind the church of St. Fidele. Closest metro stops, Duomo, Cordusio and Montenapoleone.

The Woman of Three Breasts

©2020 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Brussels has the Mannekin Pis.

Paris has the Stravinsky Fountain.

A short walk from Milan’s La Scala Theater, tucked away in a nondescript neighborhood, is the Fontana dei Baci….more commonly known by the nickname, The Woman of Three Breasts.

There are many fountains similar to this design in Rome, however, this is the only one of the kind located in Milan. The statue was conceived and constructed by the former Savings Bank of Lombardy. Part of the building owned by the Cariplo (formerly the Savings Bank of the Lombardy) and adjacent to the well-known Congress Center, it sits on the corner and attracts the occasional visitor.

Like me. Or the two girls who were there, trying to get a cool Instagram or Tinder photo.

The water feature of the statue consists of a shell supported by two mighty newts with dolphins at their feet. The gushing water was believed to represent the “charity of the Savings Bank” since this was location of the offices were where taxes were paid. Two female statues flank the water feature, but it is the lady on the left that gives the statue its nickname.

The female statue, who represents the savings of the bank, holds close to her breast. a round piggy bank. The formation of the piggy bank to the mischievous eye, however, makes it look as though the female has a third breast!

The woman with “three” breasts, on the left.
Statue on right.

Okay, so its not the Trevi fountain, but worth a detour if you are coming from a performance at La Scala…especially if you are in need of updating your Instagram photo!

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Fontana dei Baci

  • Address: Via Andegari, 8, 20121 Milano MI, Italy (corner of Via Romagnosi and Via Andegari)
  • Hours: 24 hours
  • Admission: free
  • Getting There: The following transit lines have routes that pass near Fontana dei Baci. Bus, #’s 43, 57, 61. Train, R16, S4, S5, S6. Metro lines, M1, M3. Light Rail, line 1.

For The Price Of A Train Ticket

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Where would you go for the price of a train ticket?

Rome has set the bar very high for me as far as Italian cities go. I never tire of walking through the city and finding that around every corner there is something bigger and better. I don’t ever feel as though I need to venture outside of the city.

Milan, however, was never a place that I could find footing with. In fact, I would complain (to anyone who would listen) about how much I hated going there. I always felt like I had to work extra-hard to find the things that make it Milan…and it was never just around the corner.

Over the years, I have done research and found those outstanding and sometimes hidden gems that make Milan special…there were more than I ever imagined and more of which I hope to come. Lately, however, I have stumbled upon an interesting fact. The trains in Milan are relatively inexpensive.

For the price of a train ticket, I could venture outside of Milan and discover so much more. That inexpensive ticket opens up lots of possibilities with so many charming Italian cities nearby that you can explore.

Having visited the city of Pavia, about a 45 minute journey from Milan, I had heard about Certosa di Pavia, one of the largest monasteries in Italy. In fact, I had seen it in the distance from my window on the train when I visited Pavia. Filling the skyline in the countryside, it appeared imposing and mysterious…I had to buy a train ticket to check it out!

Getting to the monastery was quite easy. The subway near my hotel, brought me to Garibaldi station and from there I was able to take a train straight to the Certosa di Pavia station. One there, it was about a 12-15 minute walk, following the path around the high monastery walls to the entrance.

Having discovered that a tour was offered at the opening times in Italian only, I was a bit disappointed that there were no others in English. Someone, however, gave me a bit of advice…take the tour in Italian. Even if you don’t understand any of it, you will get to see parts of the monastery that are not open to those not taking part in the tour.

Time to muster all of my Italian…and I promise, there’s not enough in my repertoire to understand a guide on a tour.

There were many visitors congregating at the entrance and right on schedule, someone was there to open the gates and allow everyone in.

Now, I have been to the Duomo in Milan many times and to this day, I am still awe-struck by its beauty and intricacies. This place definitely gives the Duomo a run for its money! Towering above the grass courtyard, it simply takes your breath away! Every nook and cranny of the structure’s facade is filled with reliefs, statues and inlaid carvings and you want to stand there and take in every minute detail.  

Heading inside, however, I was on a mission to make sure that I did not miss the tour. Mouth gaping at the larger than life-size statues dominating the dimly lit space, I obliged when beckoned by the monk behind the gates at the rear of the church.

Starting at the left side structure, our tour commenced with a request…no photographs. It was interesting however, to realize that the monks who reside in the monastery now are of the order of the Cistercians, those who have taken a vow of silence. How is it that this Cistercian monk was giving us a tour? It was later, that I learned that some of the monks have been released from their vow for the sole purpose of giving guided tours.

Moving throughout the spaces behind the gates, the monk guided us though each of the areas within the church probably informing our tour group of the important details about the church’s inception.

(My Italian lacking severely, I was busy sneaking photos, not even trying to comprehend what was being communicated!)

The monastery, built in 1396-1495, is one of the largest in Italy. Founded by the monastic order of Carthusians, the Certosa is vastly different in style than what the Carthusians were normally known for…simplicity of architecture.

Originally, the church was built to serve as a mausoleum for the Visconti family and was built in the Gothic style with a Latin cross plan, consisting of a nave, two aisles and transept. Indeed inspired by the Duomo of Milan, its crossed vaults on Gothic arches are alternately decorated with geometrical shapes and starry skies.

A fresco, Incoronation of Mary between Francesco and Ludovico Sforza can be seen in the main apse as well as other frescoes with saints and prophets. The Certosa also exhibits other painted masterpieces by Bergognone including the panels of St. Ambrose and San Siro and the Crucifixion. Some important paintings originally in the church have either disappeared or been disassembled and distributed among museums, including the National Gallery of London. Inside the Chapel of St. Michael, frescoes by Carlo Francesco Nuvolone can be inspected and there is an important collection of stained glass windows by 15th century masters, including Zanetto Bugatto, Vincenzo Foppa, Bergognone and Hans Witz. Many notable sculptural works can be found here including the carved wooden choir stalls, the marble altar frontals, a bronze candelabra by Annibale Fontana and a 16th century high altar.

The Chapel of St. Michael
The Chapel of St. Michael
The Chapel of St. Michael

The tomb of Gian Galeazzo Visconti can be found in the southern transept as well as the tomb of Ludovico Sforza, the 7th Duke of Milan and his wife Beatrice d’Este in the northern transept.

The tomb of Ludovico Sforza, the 7th Duke of Milan and his wife Beatrice d’Este
Reproduction of the tomb of Ludovico Sforza, the 7th Duke of Milan and his wife Beatrice d’Este in the Museum of Certosa di Pavia
The tomb of Gian Galeazzo Visconti

Following the monk, we were awestruck by the portal with sculptures by the Mantegazza brothers, leading to the Small Cloister with a small garden in the center and the terracotta decorations on the small pilasters. The Grande Cloister was similarly decorated with the cells of the monks opening to a central garden. It was quite interesting (and moving) to walk through one of the monk’s cells to see just how simply they lived.

The Small Cloister
The Small Cloister
Fountain in the Small Cloister
Fountain in the Small Cloister
The Grande Cloister
The Grande Cloister
The Grande Cloister
The Grande Cloister
The Grande Cloister
The monk’s garden
A monk’s cell

After our tour was complete, I once again walked through the parts of the church that had caught my attention and finally made my way to the Museum. With free admission, the museum is worth taking the time to walk through and displays many of the Certosa’s impressive pieces and informs about the history the area. What I loved the most, however, is the plaster casts of friezes from the church’s facade. Here you can see, up close, what you can’t see with the naked eye due their locations high in the facade.

Finally, I headed into the Monastic Shop where the products made by the monks who reside at the monastery are sold. There is a large selection of herbal teas, alcoholic beverages, soaps, honey, religious icons and rosaries for purchase and you might spy one of those monks catching a nap in the corner, like I did!

Before heading out, I spent some time walking around the grounds in front of the church before heading out to make my way back to the train station.

Happy that I learned about the inexpensive price of Italy’s trains, I inserted my few euros into the ticket machine and purchased my return ticket, headed back to Milan, dinner and some much needed rest.

Most impressed by the Certosa di Pavia, this will most certainly be the first of many adventures outside of Milan!

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Certosa di Pavia

The Castle On A Cold Day

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

An impressive structure in the center of Milan, the Sforza Castle, built in the 15th century, is a must see while visiting the Italian city.

I have walked through the grounds many times but never gave a thought to the museum housed inside.

During the winter, it’s sometimes a struggle to find things to do when the weather is not optimum, so on a cold day, I finally decided to head over to check out everything the castle had to offer.

The castle, built by Francesco Sforza, the Duke of Milan on the remnants of a 14th century fortification, was built as a defensive castle. Throughout its history, it was destroyed, rebuilt and modified and was once one of the largest citadels in Europe. Today, the castle houses the Museums of the Castello and offers glimpses of masterpieces by Michelangelo, Leonardo da Vinci and Bramante.

Allowing myself just two and a half hours to see what the castle had in store for me, I exited the Cairoli metro station and enjoyed the architectural monument laid out before me. Stopping for a moment to enjoy the modest fountain, which frames the castle’s facade, I then made my way through the Torre del Filarete and into the castle’s courtyard. Making my way around the castle walls, I inspected each of the circular keep-towers and some of the statues and architectural ruins scattered throughout.

Often the site of artisan and farmer’s markets and entertainment, this day was no exception with artist Thiago Gusi giving us music to sight see by.

Finally, entering the museum, I paid my admission and began my exploration. I have to say, the amount of art and sculpture displayed here was mind-blowing and I quickly realized that I really should have allowed more time.

I won’t try to describe each and every piece in the museum, but as I moved through each of the rooms, there was a plethora of outstanding sculptural works, tapestries, frescoed ceilings, tiled floors, suits of armor, stained glass and painted canvases. Stunned by the quality and quantity, I glanced at my watch and moved as expeditiously as I could.

Thinking that my tour was almost complete, I discovered that, yes, there was more!

Moving through the museum, I found a whole other section highlighting furniture and then another, with religious icons. Each and every piece was more spectacular than the last.

As I glanced through the window at the waning daylight, I realized that my two and a half hours had passed much too quickly.

Having walked through and near the castle so many times, why had I never ventured into the castle’s museums before?

With such an affordable admission price, it won’t be the last!

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Sforza Castle

  • https://www.milanocastello.it/
  • Address: Piazza Castello, 20121 Milano MI, Italy
  • Hours: Castle, 0700-1930. Castle Museum, 0900-1730. Closed on Mondays, December 25, January 1 and May 1.
  • Admission: May 16, 2019-January 12, 2020, full ticket 10€ , reduced 8€ , reduced first Sunday of the month 5€ . Ticket includes the entrance to all  the Castle Museums and Leonardo exhibitions. Free entry: every first and third Tuesday of the month from 1400. Guided tour every Saturday at 1500, 8€
  • Getting There: Metro, Cairoli (red line) , Cadorna (red and green line) and Lanza (green line) stations.

A Tale of Two Chinatowns

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Just how many Chinatowns are there in the world?

Having visited a large number of these districts on our globe, I have to say that when I searched for this information, I was surprised by how many exist.

Following the defeat by Britain in the first Opium War, in the mid-1840’s, a series of natural catastrophes, famine, uprisings and rebellions ensued in China. Thousands of Chinese left their homes in the search for opportunity in near and far away lands and many arrived on the west coast of the United States when news of the gold rush gave them hope for a better life.

Historically, the Chinatowns located in the United States have been located in larger cities such as New York City, Seattle, Boston, Philadelphia, Chicago and Los Angeles with one of the most famous in San Francisco. There are, however, many Chinatowns in other countries as well, including Argentina, Cuba, Mexico, Peru, Canada, Mauritius, South Africa, India, Indonesia, Iran, Iraq, Japan, Malaysia, Myanmar, Pakistan, Philippines, Singapore, South Korea, Thailand, Vietnam, Belgium, France, Italy, Netherlands, United Kingdom, Australia.

I have visited quite a few on the list and they are all quite different.

Recently, I had the pleasure of accompanying my son to San Francisco on his Spring Break trip. It had been many years since my last visit to the Golden Gate City, but the first thing I wanted to show him was Chinatown. As we approached the Dragon Gate on Grant Avenue, I was quite excited to see what changes the enclave had gone through over the years.

The Dragon Gate was given to the city by the Republic of China and is inscribed with a message from the President of the Republic of China. Though I have seen bigger and more elaborate gates, I love this one for its simplicity and park-like feel. As we walked through the gate onto into the streets filled with antiques, souvenir shops, bakeries, restaurants and artwork, the familiarity returned and I remembered my first trip to San Francisco, before I began to travel the world, when I felt as though I had really entered another country.

Making our way up Grant Street, criss-crossed above with red Chinese paper lanterns, I marveled at the architecture, street art and signage. There are many notable buildings within Chinatown, including the Sing Chong Building (the most photographed piece of architecture in the area), the Bank of Canton (the Old Telephone Exchange), the Tien Hau Temple (the oldest Taoist Temple, founded in 1852), Old St. Mary’s Church (oldest cathedral in California and built by Chinese laborers) and many other culturally inspired structures, including ones on the notorious Waverly Place, an alleyway that has been used in many films and holds the first U.S. Post Office established in San Francisco.

Sing Chong Building
Bank of Canton
Tien Hau Temple
Old St. Mary’s Church
Waverly Place

The street art is some of the finest I have seen in the world and it’s advisable to duck into small streets and alleyways…you never know what you may find!

One thing that I regret missing out on, however, was a visit to the Golden Gate Fortune Cookie Factory. Having always been fascinated by the sweet cookies that are consumed after a Chinese meal, I thought it would be an interesting place to see how the cookies are made and to bring home a few to my family. Hard to find in a small alley, we passed it by, finally realizing when it was too late and time was slipping by quickly. Nevertheless, I will save this for another trip!

As the dinner hour approached, we later returned to Chinatown for an authentic meal, mesmerized by the swaying lanterns now lit for the darkened skies above the now quiet streets.

Visiting San Francisco’s Chinatown was such an enlightening experience, that when I visited Milan a couple of weeks later, I decided that I should check out the Italian version.

The day was just as brilliant as when I visited San Francisco and I looked forward to seeing how the two city’s Chinatowns compared.

Turning onto the pedestrian friendly, Via Paolo Sarpi, my interest was piqued and I glanced around hoping to spot a Chinese gate or inspiring Chinese architecture. Instead, what I found was what looked like a typical Italian street halfheartedly attempting to disguise itself as a Chinatown. Sure, there were the occasional signs which lend to the Asian perception and the intermittent paper lantern fluttering in the wind, but the over feeling is well…Italian…disappointing. Don’t get me wrong, I love Italian architecture, I was was just hoping for something much different. Try as I might, I just didn’t get the same warm and fuzzy feeling that I got when I visited San Francisco’s Chinatown.

The Chinese that reside here date back to the 1920’s and came from the Zhejiang region near Shanghai to work in the silk industry. Their descendants remained here, set up shop and offer a wide range of services and products, including 150 boutiques selling Oriental products, traditional tea shops and the large Kathay, the biggest store for ethnic food in Italy. It was here that I finally felt as though I was experiencing the true cultural phenomenon. As I browsed the shelves of authentic products, I found something that I had loved when visiting Hong Kong…sesame peanut brittle. Purchasing a small box, I secured a place on a bench surrounded by a floral shop and ate it slowly watching the activity on the street.

Finally, I walked around some of the side streets, hoping to find what I thought the neighborhood was lacking. Still confused, I thought, maybe if I had dinner here at one of the many restaurants, I could be swayed in my disappointing assessment.

Glancing around at the choices…I decided…

“Nah, I’d rather go have a pizza”.

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Chinatown San Francisco

  • http://www.sanfranciscochinatown.com/
  • Getting There: From Fisherman’s Wharf area, take the cable car to Chinatown. There are two locations for cable cars near Fisherman’s Wharf. The Powell-Hyde line (PH) and the Powell-Mason line (PM). The PH line is located near Ghiradelli Square at Beach and Hyde Street. The PM line is located at Bay and Taylor Street. Both lines intersect each other. Best place to get off is Washington & Mason (near Cable Car Museum) or Powell & California. Walk down a few blocks and you will be in Chinatown. From BART, take BART to Downtown San Francisco (exit Powell Street Station), then go above ground and transfer to 30 Stockton, 45 Union-Stockton, or cable car to Chinatown. B

Chinatown Milan

Never To Be, Napoleon

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Recently, while in Barcelona, I visited the Arc de Triomf. Only one of many triumphal arches I have visited over the years, I decided that I would make a point of visiting any and all that were present in the cities that I would currently be in.

Having seen the Arco della Pace in Milan a few years ago for a few brief moments as I was making my way to the Castle Sforza, I recently decided to make an official visit.

Arco della Pace or “Arch of Peace” is located in the Parco Sempione, directly opposite the famous Castello Sforzesco. Built under Napoleon’s rule, it is one of Milan’s many city gates and was built in the style of Paris’ Arc du Triomphe. Napoleon’s intention was that he could pass through the arch on his way into Milan as he traveled from Paris.

Built between the years of 1807 and 1838, it was constructed from many materials, including marble, bronze and stucco. Architect, Luigi Cagnola was commissioned to construct the neoclassical structure and added bas-reliefs, Corinthian columns, and statues including a bronze effigy of a Goddess led by four horses. Under the statue, which tops the arch, there is an inscription that reads Sestina della Pace (poem by peace). The names of the fallen of World War II are inscribed above the arch and at the side of the Arch, above the columns, there are two plates with the names of the fallen of the Great War and at the center there is a large slab dedicated to Victor Emanuel II. This slab is bordered by two bas-reliefs depicting two soldiers.

While the decoration of the arch initially intended to document Napoleon’s victories and originally named the Victory Arch, the conquering of the Napoleonic Kingdom of Italy by the Austrian Empire put an end to the idea. Eventually, under the rule of Emperor Francis II, the monument was decorated with scenes from the Battle of Leipzig, which ironically, led to Napoleon’s defeat.

The historical arch, one of the most familiar landmarks in the city is a common meeting point and area where locals gather to relax and enjoy the spaciousness of the Piazza Sempione and Milan’s largest park. Children can be spotted running and playing and adults exercising or enjoying an aperitif or a snack.

The arch’s base is enclosed by a metal chain, hindering visitors from walking through and lingering under the arch. There is no security presence, however, so I believe, the barrier is more of a deterrence to keep the homeless from using the space as a shelter. There are some beautiful motifs and carvings inside of the three arches that are worth taking a better look, so if you feel comfortable stepping over the chain, go for it!

There are many nightclubs and restaurants in the area as well as Milan’s own Chinatown, so grab a seat and admire the beauty of this historical triumphal arch and then take a short walk to enjoy the offerings of the area.

In my quest to see all of the world’s triumphal arches, today I achieved part of my goal.

Quite the triumph!

Now…how many more are there? Stay tuned!

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Arco della Pace

  • Address: Piazza Sempione, 20154 Milano MI, Italy
  • Hours: 24 hours, daily
  • Admission: free
  • Getting There: Metro, Line 2, Moscova or Line 1, Cairoli and walk through Castle straight through park to Arch.

The Bonus Church

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Another church?

Not having planned another stop during my afternoon in the eastern part of Milan, I was headed to an early dinner.  Coming up out of the metro stop of San Babila, I looked up and wouldn’t you know…there was a church…the Basilica of San Babila.

Did I have time to pop in?  Of course I did!  I always make time for churches, especially in Italy!

Built at the crossroads that lay at the point where the Porta Orientale (or Eastern Gateway) once stood, San Babila was once considered the third most important basilica after the Duomo and the Basilica di Sant’Ambrogio.  Dedicated to Babylas of Antioch, his relics, along with those of Romanus of Caesarea were brought from Antioch to Milan by Marolus, the bishop of Milan in the beginning of the 5th century.

The church of San Babila was built on its current site in 1095, to house these relics, and extended with additional construction at the front and a new baroque facade.  Though much of its original style has been lost during renovations, the church still retains its original medieval feel.  During the 19th century, the complex was renovated with the aim of restoring the appearance of the medieval basilica and in the early 20th century the Neo-Romanesque facade by Paolo Cesa-Bianchi was built.  The bell tower was eventually added in 1920 to replace the original tower which had fallen in the 16th century.

With the many grand churches throughout Italy, it was quite surprising when I entered, that San Babila was a very simple, mostly unadorned church.  The interior has a nave and two aisles with two side chapels that date from the late Renaissance.  Pay particular to the right aisle as it has an image of the Madonna, highly esteemed by the Milanese community.  Also particular to note are some lovely medieval frescoes, Renaissance windows and beautiful mosaics.

If traveling in this area of Milan and happen to enter or exit at the San Babila metro, take a moment to stop in and relish the quiet beauty.

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Chiesa di San Babila (The Church of San Babila)

  • http://www.santiprofeti.it/basilica-di-san-babila/
  • Address:  Corso Monforte, 1, 20122 Milano MI, Italy
  • Hours:  Saturday, 0830-1830, Sunday, 0930-1830, Monday thru Friday, 0800-1830 (not verified)
  • Admission:  free
  • Getting There:  Take the metro to the San Babila metro stop.  The church is immediately adjacent to the stop.

Caravaggio’s Church

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When seeking out San Bernardino alla Ossa in Milan, many people make the simple mistake of entering the Basilica di Santo Stefano Maggiore.

Though maybe not the intended destination, duck in for a moment and take a quick look around.

St. Stefano, is also referred to as St. Stephen in Brolo, the historical name of the area or St. Stephen’s Gate, for the port that once existed in this location.  As you approach the two churches, St. Stefano stands out with its bell tower and extravagantly carved facade.  Much more in its interior, however, should lure those who appreciate an impressive basilica and the history behind it.

Established in the 5th century, the basilica was formerly dedicated to both Saints Zechariah and Stephen, though eventually given over to the latter.  The original building was constructed around the year 417, destroyed by fire in 1070 and rebuilt in the Romanesque style in 1075.  Since 1594, many reconstructions, expansions and restoration have been completed including enlargement of the apse and the main altar, lengthening of the nave and reconstruction of the facade, reconstruction of the bell tower by architect Gerolamo Quadrio and the construction of the sacristy and the modernization of some chapels.

St. Stefano is most famous for the many saints interred within its walls, most notably, San Carlo Borromeo and for two major events that occurred in the church.   The Duke of Milan Galeazzo Maria Sforza was assassinated by four conspirators in 1476, under the medieval portico outside the church, as he visited the basilica for the celebration of the patron saint.  The remaining pillar of the portico can be viewed in front of the belltower.   Also, after years of speculation, the baptismal certificate from 1571, of the painter Michelangelo Merisi, better known as “Caravaggio”, was discovered in 2007 in the archival documents of the basilica, giving a definitive answer to the age-old question of his baptismal and birth place.

Though the basilica is very little known to tourists, it is easily accessible from the Piazza Fontana and quite impressive for its size and historical significance.  Though the church is in desperate need of renovations, there are many items worth noting on its interior.  Many of the side chapels contain beautiful and original stained glass and paintings and the altar is quite grand with its gold tabernacle.  Also, be sure to note the imposing organ, the unique statues and the beautiful vaulted ceiling.  Of particular interest is the life-sized bronze statue of Jesus on the cross, flanked by his mother and disciples, at the rear of the structure.

If the churches of Milan peak your interest, make the short walk from the Duomo area and investigate the neighboring churches of St. Stefano and San Bernardino alla Ossa.  Two different churches, connected by location and history…a sort of  “two for the price of one”, kind of deal!

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Basilica di Santo Stefano Maggiore

  • Address:  Piazza Santo Stefano 10, Milan, Italy
  • Hours: Daily, 0900-1700
  • Admission:  free
  • Getting There:  Metro, Duomo stop.  Proceed along the cathedral’s southern side to the end of the square and into Piazza Fontana. Cross the piazza diagonally, across Via Verziere.

 

 

 

 

 

A Bethel of Bones

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There is a church in Milan that I’ve been wanting to visit for a very long time.

San Bernardino alle Ossa.

The bones church.

San Bernardino alla Ossa, is a church in Milan, near the Duomo, which dates back to the thirteenth century, when a hospital and a cemetery were built in front of the basilica of Santo Stefano Maggiore, located next door.  In 1210, excess bones from the cemetery needed housing so a chamber was built, next to which a church was built in 1269.

Restored in 1679 by Giovanni Andrea Biffi, the facade was modified and the walls of the ossuary were decorated with human skulls and tibiae.  When the church was destroyed in 1712, a new edifice was designed by Carlo Giuseppe Merlo and expanded to accommodate the growing interest in the ossuary.  The new church was then dedicated to St. Bernardino of Siena and completed in 1776.

Having been to both the Capuchin Crypt in Rome and the Catacombs in Paris, I was anxious to see how this compared, but I always seemed to be in Milan on Sunday when the church was closed to visitors.

Due to an irregularity in my schedule and some good luck, I happened to be in Milan on a Friday and the church was open during the afternoon.  Making my way from the Duomo metro stop, I approached the area but was a bit confused. The first thing you notice upon approach is the basilica of St. Stefano and its bell tower immediately in the forefront.  Seeing others entering the palazzo-like, unadorned building on the left, I realized that this was San Bernardino alla Ossa.

Entering the church’s vestibule, I acknowledged the Blessed Virgin and followed the corridor on the right, leading to the chapel ossuary.

The small square chapel, a breathtaking area, was originally decorated with frescoes by Sebastian Ricci, an Italian artist.  Today, you can still see his work…gaze upward at the incredible ceiling which depicts the Triumph of Souls Among Flying Angels and the glory of the four patron saints, Santa Maria Vergine, Santa Ambrogio, Santa Sebastiano and Santa Bernardino de Siena.  The rest of the chapel is adorned with an altar and a niche with the statue of Madonna Addolorata (Our Lady of Sorrows) kneeling before the body of Jesus.  Skulls and bones, believed to be the deceased from the hospital and corpses from seventeenth century cemeteries, are arranged in niches and on cornices, pillars and doors.  Some are stacked “frame-like” appearing as oversized paintings in simple shapes while others are arranged in ornamental patterns, like skull and crossbones.  The skulls that you observe in cases above the door are those of executed prisoners.

Remains interred near the altar are those of a young girl, who, according to legend, comes back to life on November 2nd, All Souls Day, and lures other skeletons in a morbid dance.

Be sure to take a seat and revel in the unique artistry of the chapel and be prepared for large tour groups entering the chapel now and again.  A sign advising against photographs is present in the hallway, however, I did not see this until I heard the caretaker telling a group of Spanish tourists that photography was not allowed.  Thankfully, I had been able to capture some stunning photos before I understood the restriction.

The church itself is not very remarkable and rather small.  An octagonal plan, it has two side chapels with baroque marble altars, with the one on the right showcasing an altarpiece by Frederico Ferrario representing “Santa Maria Maddalena in casa del fariseo” (St. Mary Magdalene in the house of the Pharisee).

However, be sure not to miss one of the most interesting aspects of this church.  The chapel on the right of the altar also houses a tomb of some descendants of Christopher Columbus’ maternal family.  You can spy the family coat of arms with the motto, “Colon diede il Nuovo Mondo alla Castiglia e al Leon” (Colon gave the New World to Castile and Leon).

The church has grown in popularity over the years and though not very well-known, it often listed in the Top Things To Do lists of Milan.  Maybe not as large as the catacombs of Paris and maybe not as ornate as the Capuchin Crypt in Rome, I do think that San Bernardino alla Ossa is by far the most intimate and most beautiful.

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

San Bernardino alla Ossa