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Another church?
Not having planned another stop during my afternoon in the eastern part of Milan, I was headed to an early dinner. Coming up out of the metro stop of San Babila, I looked up and wouldn’t you know…there was a church…the Basilica of San Babila.
Did I have time to pop in? Of course I did! I always make time for churches, especially in Italy!
Built at the crossroads that lay at the point where the Porta Orientale (or Eastern Gateway) once stood, San Babila was once considered the third most important basilica after the Duomo and the Basilica di Sant’Ambrogio. Dedicated to Babylas of Antioch, his relics, along with those of Romanus of Caesarea were brought from Antioch to Milan by Marolus, the bishop of Milan in the beginning of the 5th century.
The church of San Babila was built on its current site in 1095, to house these relics, and extended with additional construction at the front and a new baroque facade. Though much of its original style has been lost during renovations, the church still retains its original medieval feel. During the 19th century, the complex was renovated with the aim of restoring the appearance of the medieval basilica and in the early 20th century the Neo-Romanesque facade by Paolo Cesa-Bianchi was built. The bell tower was eventually added in 1920 to replace the original tower which had fallen in the 16th century.
With the many grand churches throughout Italy, it was quite surprising when I entered, that San Babila was a very simple, mostly unadorned church. The interior has a nave and two aisles with two side chapels that date from the late Renaissance. Pay particular to the right aisle as it has an image of the Madonna, highly esteemed by the Milanese community. Also particular to note are some lovely medieval frescoes, Renaissance windows and beautiful mosaics.
If traveling in this area of Milan and happen to enter or exit at the San Babila metro, take a moment to stop in and relish the quiet beauty.
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Chiesa di San Babila (The Church of San Babila)
- http://www.santiprofeti.it/basilica-di-san-babila/
- Address: Corso Monforte, 1, 20122 Milano MI, Italy
- Hours: Saturday, 0830-1830, Sunday, 0930-1830, Monday thru Friday, 0800-1830 (not verified)
- Admission: free
- Getting There: Take the metro to the San Babila metro stop. The church is immediately adjacent to the stop.
Established in the 5th century, the basilica was formerly dedicated to both Saints Zechariah and Stephen, though eventually given over to the latter. The original building was constructed around the year 417, destroyed by fire in 1070 and rebuilt in the Romanesque style in 1075. Since 1594, many reconstructions, expansions and restoration have been completed including enlargement of the apse and the main altar, lengthening of the nave and reconstruction of the facade, reconstruction of the bell tower by architect Gerolamo Quadrio and the construction of the sacristy and the modernization of some chapels.
St. Stefano is most famous for the many saints interred within its walls, most notably, San Carlo Borromeo and for two major events that occurred in the church. The Duke of Milan Galeazzo Maria Sforza was assassinated by four conspirators in 1476, under the medieval portico outside the church, as he visited the basilica for the celebration of the patron saint. The remaining pillar of the portico can be viewed in front of the belltower. Also, after years of speculation, the baptismal certificate from 1571, of the painter Michelangelo Merisi, better known as “Caravaggio”, was discovered in 2007 in the archival documents of the basilica, giving a definitive answer to the age-old question of his baptismal and birth place.
Though the basilica is very little known to tourists, it is easily accessible from the Piazza Fontana and quite impressive for its size and historical significance. Though the church is in desperate need of renovations, there are many items worth noting on its interior. Many of the side chapels contain beautiful and original stained glass and paintings and the altar is quite grand with its gold tabernacle. Also, be sure to note the imposing organ, the unique statues and the beautiful vaulted ceiling. Of particular interest is the life-sized bronze statue of Jesus on the cross, flanked by his mother and disciples, at the rear of the structure.
The small square chapel, a breathtaking area, was originally decorated with frescoes by Sebastian Ricci, an Italian artist. Today, you can still see his work…gaze upward at the incredible ceiling which depicts the Triumph of Souls Among Flying Angels and the glory of the four patron saints, Santa Maria Vergine, Santa Ambrogio, Santa Sebastiano and Santa Bernardino de Siena. The rest of the chapel is adorned with an altar and a niche with the statue of Madonna Addolorata (Our Lady of Sorrows) kneeling before the body of Jesus. Skulls and bones, believed to be the deceased from the hospital and corpses from seventeenth century cemeteries, are arranged in niches and on cornices, pillars and doors. Some are stacked “frame-like” appearing as oversized paintings in simple shapes while others are arranged in ornamental patterns, like skull and crossbones. The skulls that you observe in cases above the door are those of executed prisoners.
Remains interred near the altar are those of a young girl, who, according to legend, comes back to life on November 2nd, All Souls Day, and lures other skeletons in a morbid dance.
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A beautiful day in the city, it was a nice walk to the Pacaembu Stadium where I found the grounds filled with young kids practicing to the sounds of Brazilian music. Paying my admission, I first entered the stadium, gazing up at the stands and down at the rich, green turf that has withstood the trampling of the Big 4 football clubs of the State of São Paulo…Corinthians, Palmeiras, São Paulo and Santos.
Before making your way through the museum, be aware of one thing…everything is written in Portuguese. There is, however, a helpful app which guides you through each of the areas of the museum.
Many areas of the museum contain interactive exhibits that you can access and participate in. After encountering the most famous football players in history, you will be able to listen to the Radio broadcasts by Ary Barroso from the 1940’s and Osmar Santos, four decades later. Here, you can choose your favorite announcer by name or by year when the goal took place. You can also choose your favorite historic goal and later on, practice your own goal kicks.
There are countless photographs, team flags and old uniform pieces…even old cleats. You can even challenge your friends to a game…of foosball,…the tabletop version of the game.
My favorite part of the museum, however, was the Room of Celebration. Dedicated to the fans of the sport, it reminds us how the sport unites. Sound bytes of cheering fans echo under the stadium and videos are broadcast on the supporting pillars…those firmly planted in the ground when the stadium was built and those that support the bleachers on which the fans congregate. It is very loud in this area…however, I am sure it is nothing compared to what is the reality during an exciting game!
The Futbol Museum is very interesting for all visitors, especially younger ones who may not understand what part Brazil played in escalating the sport. For the older visitors, it is a walk through the past. And for the price (less than $4), it is something truly worth experiencing in São Paulo!
The phenomenal thing about Batman Alley is that you can visit each time you are in São Paulo and when you turn the corner into the alley, you never know what you may find. The art is continually renovated and looked after by the community and is always breathtaking. Even though it is ever changing, you can still find Batman, so be sure to search for him.
From my first visit to this unique area, I have noticed a huge increase in visitors. I’m not sure how I found this area, because years ago, it was not very well known to tourists and of course, takes a bit of doing to get there. Today, I observed more foot traffic as well as Uber depositing those too time-pressed to walk. There are many more cafes lining the streets adjacent to the alley and college-aged students and young professionals enjoying the sunshine and a beer or two.
The biggest difference, however, is in the alley itself. In addition to the hordes of people attempting to photograph the exclusive artwork, there are the young girls attempting to get the most awe-inspiring pictures for their Facebook profile or for Instagram. There are wanna-be photographers (some possibly real) and their wanna-be models complete with wardrobe changes and props, hoping that the exclusive location (if not the outcome of their work) will give both of their portfolios a leg-up. So unique is the area that I even observed a couple taking their engagement photos here!
Every wall is filled with amazing portraits, depictions and different styles of graffiti. If you are lucky, you might even catch an artist (or two) at work. Take your time, dodge the masses and be patient with the photo-shoots…Batman Alley is a place to relish…not rush, and, when you have finished walking through the alley, spend a little time walking the neighboring streets…many more interesting forms of artwork can be found, making the long walk to get there absolutely worth the blisters!
Watching the movie, it was quite thrilling to see the Map Room, which was used continually by the officers of the Royal Navy, British Army and Royal Air Force who produced a daily intelligence summary for the King, Prime Minister and the military Chiefs of Staff. The other room I recognized was the Cabinet Room, from which Churchill visited in 1940 and famously declared, “This is the room from which I will direct the war.” And that he did. 115 Cabinet meetings, in all, were held in the Cabinet War Rooms.
Having seen the magnificent Westminster Abbey, in all of its glory the day before, this cathedral could have been sort of a letdown. However, you can’t compare apples to oranges. Southwark has an amazing history and some unique things to see as well.
Making your way toward the altar on the cathedral’s north aisle, you will encounter the tomb of medieval English poet, John Gower. A friend of Geoffrey Chaucer, he lived in the cathedral’s priory from the 1370’s until his death at the age of 78. His body is interred with his head resting on one of his most famous works, Speculum Meditantis, Vox Clamantis and Confessio Amantis. The latter’s first editions were dedicated to Richard II.
On the north aisle of the cathedral is the North Transept and many monuments are located in this area, most notably the monument to Lionel Lockyer, a physician whose pills were said to heal all ailments and another to lawyer and poet, William Austin. Austin’s monument, created by Nicholas Stone, a famous 17th century sculptor, is hard to miss for its size.
Take a peek into the Harvard Chapel and inspect the John Harvard Memorial window before continuing on toward the Lady Chapel. Along the way, take in the Humble Monument, which pays homage to Alderman Richard Humble, a member of the church vestry, and his two wives, Elizabeth and Isabel. Equally impressive is the Medieval Effigy of a Knight, an incredible carving of a knight, possible a crusader, dating from 1280.
Between the north and south aisles, behind the altar is one of the greatest treasures of the cathedral, the High Altar Screen. Erected in 1520 by Bishop Fox of Winchester, the screen displays three lines of statues depicting St. Olaf (King Olaf II of Norway) who converted to Christianity and is know for pulling down the London Bridge to protect the city from an assault from the Danes. Also featured are the figures of poet John Gower, King Henry I, Thomas Becket, St. Peter, St. Paul, Cardinal Beaufort, Bishop Fox and many others. There are also carvings of the Lamb of God, a pelican (badge of Bishop Fox), a row of angels and hunting scenes.
Be sure to inspect the tomb of Bishop Lancelot Andrewes located on the south aisle. A high ranking bishop, during the reigns of Queen Elizabeth I and James I of England, Andrewes was a key translator of the King James version of the Bible and assisted at King James’s coronation. During the latter part of his life, he became Dean of Winchester remaining in the position until his death at the age of 71 in 1626.
The last major attraction in the church is the Memorial Window of Shakespeare with a remarkable alabaster statue, created in 1912 by Henry McCarthy, of the great writer in repose, quill in hand. Shakespeare was a parishioner who worshiped at the cathedral when he lived near the Globe Theater. William’s brother Edmund was buried on the church grounds in 1607, however, the exact location of his tomb is unknown.
Before leaving the church, make sure to take a quick walk around the grounds of the church. While taking a look at the stunning Gothic architecture, also look for shrapnel damage which is still visible from the bombs dropped in the area between October 1940 to June 1941. Also, take a look at the archaeological remains located in the far side of the entry hall.
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A church on this site has been dated back to 1080, however, construction of the present church was begun, on orders of King Henry III, in 1245. In addition to the coronations, other notable events have been held at the abbey, including sixteen royal weddings (most recently, Prince William to Kate Middleton in 2011), the funeral of Diana, Princess of Wales and countless burials.
Following the audio guide, I was led past incredible sculpture and the 600 plus memorials in the Nave to the Tomb of the Unknown Warrior, in St. George’s chapel, which holds an unidentified British soldier, killed during World War I on a European battlefield. This young soldier was interred in Westminster Abbey in 1920 around the same time an unknown French soldier was interred at the Arc de Triomphe in France. These were the first two graves to honor the unknown dead from the First World War.
In the rear of the sanctuary is the Confessor’s Chapel and Henry VII’s Chapel. Henry VII’s 16th century chapel contains the tomb of Henry VII and his Queen. Be sure to take a look upward at the fan vaulting and richly appointed sculpture as well as the banners and carved stalls of the Knights of the Order of the Bath. Also, be sure not to miss Innocents Corner, the burial place of Sophie and Mary (James I daughters) who were only two and three years old at their passing and the small sarcophagus of Edward IV who was murdered in the Tower of London. The royal tombs of Elizabeth I and her predecessor, Mary Tudor, Charles II, William II and Queen Anne are also located within the chapel. Another point of interest is the Royal Air Force Chapel dedicated to the fallen in the Battle of Britain.
Though I had been able to get a few photos during the initial part of my visit, it was here in Henry VII’s chapel that I was informed that my phone had to be turned off. Apparently, photography and filming are not allowed in Winchester Abbey. As a devout admirer of sculpture and architecture as well as photography, it was disheartening to not be able to capture the beautiful images I was seeing in order to share with others.
As I walked through the Cloisters, dating from the 13th and 14th century, I admired the long vaulted corridors and the beautifully manicured courtyard in the center. The cloisters contain many tombs, the entrance to Dean’s Yard and the oldest garden in England, College Garden. There are also rooms located on the western side of the cloisters which include the Deanery, Jericho Parlor and the Jerusalem Chamber, the place of Henry IV’s death in 1413.
Located near the northern end of London Bridge, the Monument to the Great Fire of London, the fluted Doric column built of Portland stone, commemorates the Great Fire of London which started on September 2, 1666. Built between 1671 and 1677, it was here that the first church to be burnt down during the Great Fire, St. Margaret’s, was located. This historic monument was designed by Christopher Wren and Robert Hooke and its height marks the distance from the site of the shop of the king’s baker, where the Great Fire began.
If you have time (which I did not on this day), a viewing platform is located at the top of the monument and can be accessed by 311 steps on a narrow winding staircase. The summit of the monument is marked by a flaming gilt-bronze urn which sports a 360-degree panoramic camera which is updated every minute and runs 24 hours a day, providing a record of weather, building and ground activity in the city.
Originally built in 1100, the church was severely damaged during the Great Fire. Instead of rebuilding the church, the decision was made to repair it from 1668 to 1671, adding a steeple, designed by Christopher Wren, a few years later in 1695.
While the tower now houses the All Hallows House Foundation, the parish is combined with the Benefice of All Hallows by the Tower. If you are lucky enough to be in London on certain holidays, such as Palm Sunday, open-air services are held in the church followed by a procession to the All Hallows by the Tower along St Dunstan’s Hill and Great Tower Street.
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