More than 100,000 casualties occurred within a twenty mile radius of Fredericksburg during Civil War battles. As a result, more than 15,000 Union soldiers found their final resting place in the Fredericksburg National Cemetery.
After four major battles, Fredericksburg, Chancellorsville, Wilderness, and Spotsylvania Court House, the remains of deceased Union and Confederate soldiers were buried in shallow, often unmarked graves around the battlefields. It was deemed necessary that a national cemetery at Fredericksburg be established to provide a proper burial site for these soldiers.
The Fredericksburg National Cemetery, part of the Fredericksburg and Spotsylvania Country Battlefields Memorial National Military Park is located southwest of the city’s historic downtown in Marye’s Heights, a Confederate stronghold during the Battle of Fredericksburg. It was constructed in 1866 and is one of fourteen national cemeteries managed by the National Park Service.
Parking near the Visitor’s Center at the Fredericksburg and Spotsylvania National Military Park, we found it to be closed and its exterior and surroundings under construction. Thinking that we would take a walk on the trail that lead from this location, we ducked into the Museum Shop to obtain a map. Finding the trail to be extensive and because it was the end of the day, we decided to take a walk through the cemetery instead.
Following the natural contour of the landscape, we walked uphill, noting some of the monuments dedicated to Union soldiers and officers such as the Fifth Corps Monument, which honors the service of the corps and the Monument to Colonel Joseph Moesch, commemorating the officer who was killed while leading his regiment of 83rd New York Volunteers in the Battle of Wilderness. In the center of the cemetery, we found the Humphrey’s Division Monument, surrounded by upright cannons. This monument honors the men under General Humphrey that led an unsuccessful attack on Confederate troops holding Marye’s Heights. Over 1,000 soldiers were killed or wounded in this engagement.
Fifth Corps Monument
Monument to Colonel Joseph Moesch
Monument to the 127th Regiment of the Pennsylvania Volunteer InfantryHumphrey’s Division MonumentHumphrey’s Division Monument
Other small markers were scattered throughout the cemetery. Though bearing no names, they offered a longer number followed by another smaller number. While over 15,000 soldiers are interred here, only 2,473 were identified and these are the graves of the unknown. The upper number identifies the plot, while the second number identifies the number of soldiers buried in that plot. The soldiers that were identified are buried in individual graves, marked with a rounded headstone bearing the soldier’s name and state.
The cemetery is also the final resting place for an additional three hundred veterans of the Spanish-American War, World War I and World War II.
Though no music can be heard during our visit, the beat of a poem surrounded us. Near the 127th Pennsylvania Volunteer Monument, and throughout the cemetery, we noticed plaques containing verses from Theordore O’Hara’s, “The Bivouac of the Dead” (1847), which commemorated the American dead at the Battle of Buena Vista, from the Mexican-American War.
The muffled drum’s sad roll has beat The soldier’s last Tattoo; No more on life’s parade shall meet That brave and fallen few. On fame’s eternal camping ground Their silent tents to spread, And glory guards, with solemn round The bivouac of the dead. No rumor of the foe’s advance Now swells upon the wind; Nor troubled thought at midnight haunts Of loved ones left behind; No vision of the morrow’s strife The warrior’s dreams alarms; No braying horn or screaming fife At dawn shall call to arms. Rest on, embalmed and sainted dead, Dear as the blood ye gave, No impious footstep here shall tread The herbage of your grave.
A powerful testament to those who gave their lives during these tumultuous times.
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Most Americans know that our nation’s first President was George Washington and that his residence, Mount Vernon, is located south of Washington D.C., on the banks of the Potomac River.
Having visited Mount Vernon with my children on various school field trips, I was intrigued with the how beautiful the estate and its grounds were and although I was aware that this was Washington’s home, I never thought about how long he lived there. Although he and his wife Martha made it their home until his death, I guess I always assumed that he also grew up there.
Recently, when visiting Fredericksburg, I found myself on Kings Highway. Noticing a historical sign directing visitors to George Washington’s boyhood home, I initially dismissed it assuming it was Mount Vernon. When I happened to see another sign directing me to the entrance, I realized that I was not near Mount Vernon and this was something entirely different.
This was Ferry Farm.
Located on the banks of the Rappahannock River, Ferry Farm, as it was later named, was George Washington’s home from the age of six years until his twenties. The Washington family purchased the farm in 1738 and it was here where George Washington spent his formative years and the place where most people believe he chopped down the infamous cherry tree.
Visitor’s Center
Purchasing a ticket, I walked in the garden for a few minutes before heading out to the area where the replica of the home stands. During my tour, learned that in 1740, the Washington family home was destroyed by fire, however, during excavations in 2008, archaeologists uncovered remains that led them to realize that this was the location of the family home. In 2015, the George Washington Foundation began constructing a replica on the site of the original building and it was opened to the public in 2018.
Path from Visitor’s Center to House
Surveyor’s Shed
Though no one knows what the farm was called during the years that the Washington family occupied the home, it later came to be known as Ferry Farm, because of the free ferry (not owned by the family) that crossed the river on the family’s land.
Replica of the Washington family home
After an introduction by the tour guide, we were led through the home which was built using eighteenth century building techniques. The tour which took us through the first floor, introduced us to reproductions of the furniture and objects listed in George’s father, Augustine Washington’s, probate inventory when he died in 1743. Unlike many other historical tours, because these are all reproductions, we were encouraged to interact with the objects while being regaled with stories about the family’s life.
Once the tour was complete, I ventured outside and down to the river to where the ferry once departed the banks of the river to make its crossing. From here, the view of the home sitting on the hill, was breathtaking and you could almost imagine a young George and his siblings running down the steep slope or sledding down during the winter!
Making my way back up the stairs, I spotted a tent, situated not far from the house. Archaeologists were excavating another site on the property and I was told that there have been prehistoric artifacts such as spear points, stone axes and numerous other tools tied to the American Indians that once made their home on the land found here. During the Civil War in 1862, the areas near the farm were the site of skirmishes between Confederate and Union armies. The farm was used by Union soldiers as a campground and although much of the farm was destroyed, a surveyor’s shed was constructed and is one on the only remaining structures from this time frame that can be seen today. In addition, archaeologists have found many items from the Civil War occupation that can be seen in the museum at the front of the property such as bullets, ink bottles, button and medallions from uniforms. Other interesting artifacts that can be inspected are 18th century wig hair curlers. The Georgian-style inspired museum and archaeological lab also houses the ticket office/visitor’s center and was not open for visitation.
Since Ferry Farm has only been open since 2018 and a new historical attraction, I do think that it is worth returning at a later date. A new visitor’s center is in the works and every year, visitors come for the celebration of Washington’s birthday. While everyone knows the cherry tree story, which is believed to have happened here, it is also claimed to be the site where George Washington skipped a silver dollar across the Rappahannock River. The river was wider then than it is today, making it a much harder feat, but all who attend are invited to recreate this event.
Wonder if there will be any tree chopping competitions too?
George Washington not only led an interesting adult life, but an interesting younger one as well.
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If you have ever visited Williamsburg, Virginia, you know that there are many historical attractions.
Many years ago, while on a school field trip to Jamestown, I spotted something captivating, just off of the exit ramp from the highway…giant heads depicting our past American Presidents. It was President’s Park, an attraction that was open from 2004 until 2010.
Making a mental note to take my children one day, it was filed away with my lists of groceries, household to-do details and information about far away lands that I wanted to see. It wasn’t until we were struck by a pandemic and I could no longer travel throughout the world, and even to some other states, that I began researching nearby attractions to occupy my time while away from work. President’s Park quickly moved to the top of my must-visit list…right behind Gettysburg. As I perused the internet, however, I could not find any current information about the park.
After a bit of digging, I learned that due to lack of interest, this place closed, leaving the giant heads to succumb to neglect and decay. After selling the property, the owner wanted the heads destroyed, however, Howard Hankins, who had helped to construct the park, had the forty-three heads, which measure between 18 and 20 feet high, moved to his family farm in nearby Croaker, Virginia. They now stand neglected in a field, on the site of his industrial recycling facility, and are not presently open to the public. There are plans, however, to restore these mighty busts and recreate a museum with the assistance of the Smithsonian in the future.
What a disapointment!
A few more clicks on the internet, however, led me to find John Plaschal, a local photographer who plans photographic events (with the permission of the owners) at historic locations that are not ordinarily open to the public. As if fate had led me in this direction, I learned that he was planning a ticketed event at the farm where the presidential heads are located.
I quickly purchased my ticket and made plans, rain or shine, to be there.
That afternoon, with darkened skies and light rain falling, I drove the hour’s distance to Croaker and headed down a long dirt road, where I spotted the family farm. Parking my car, I headed to the tent, presented my ticket and received a map detailing the presentation of the statues.
Thanking my lucky stars that I had had the good sense to wear rain boots, I traipsed down the muddy road, following another photographer, and praying that the light rain would continue to diminish.
Rounding a bend in the road, I took a sudden breath inward as I spotted most of the statues, in five, uneven rounded lines, to my left.
Having three hours to capture these decaying and crumbling monoliths, I decided to make my way to the back line and work my way down to the far end first and then tackle the front lines and the three other statues that stood off to the side near the road.
The first president I encountered was John Adams. Slipping and sliding down a muddy hill, I found myself eyeing his sly grin which was undoubtedly suppressing his laughter at the many tourists who fall right before his eyes on the sodden slope (literally!). Standing in the mud, I glanced ahead at the line of huge heads awaiting my inspection and I plodded on.
George Bush, John Q. Adams, Martin Van Buren, Millard Fillmore…
This is where it began to get interesting…and not just my scrutiny of the statues.
Remember how I said that I was glad I wore rainboots?
Camera pointed high, I was not focused on the ground. Suddenly, I felt water seeping onto my socks. Looking down, I realized that not only the ground was wet, it was flooded and I had stepped in water higher than my short boots. I guess I should have worn my tall ones!
Looking forward, I realized that from James Madison onward, the ground was covered with standing water. I realized that I could skip this section, which is why other visitors were not around, or keep going. Oh well, wet feet are wet feet!
Pulling up each leg of my yoga pants as high as I could, I merged onward, with water edging up to my kneecaps. As I committed each statue digitally and swatted the occasional mosquito and prayed that I would not encounter any snakes.
James Madison, Thomas Jefferson, James Monroe, Bill Clinton, Gerald Ford, William H. Harrison. As I rounded James K. Polk’s statue, I climbed up a hill at the base of his head and took in the rear view from high above.
Before tackling the middle and forward lines, I ventured off to inspect George Washington, Andrew Jackson and Abraham Lincoln. These statues were a bit removed from the others and obviously attracted a great deal more attention. While I admired Andrew Jackson’s smooth façade (the only statue to have been fully restored), I walked around to the rear of Abraham Lincoln. Most of the statues had considerable holes in their heads, as this is how the crane was able to secure the statues and move them, but on old Abe, it was a bit disconcerting, knowing his demise.
Making my way back to the other statues, I encountered Zachary Taylor, John Tyler and Franklin Pierce, then braved the waters that lapped at Rutherford Hayes, James Garfield, Grover Cleveland, William McKinley, Calvin Coolidge, Richard Nixon, Dwight Eisenhower and Warren G. Harding. It was amazing to gaze up at these stunning pieces of artwork and discover the thought and detail that was used by the artist, David Adickes, in their creation.
The front three rows were the easiest to survey and the driest. It was here that I saw some of our most recent Presidents, Ronald Reagan, John Kennedy, Jimmy Carter, and George W. Bush. It was Woodrow Wilson and Theodore Roosevelt who commanded the crowd’s attention in the forefront, however, both in direct contrast of each other. Wilson’s decaying face appeared as one of a man who had lived a hard life, while Roosevelt’s stoic pose was relatively almost untouched.
While it had stopped raining halfway through my tour, the dim skies lent to the occasion of these statues’ dark days, alone in a deserted field. Glancing around at the crowd that had come out to see them, it is a wonder how President’s Park never garnered enough attention to remain afloat during the years that it was open. Maybe it was a lack of advertisement or just that fact that there are so many other attractions in the Williamsburg area. Maybe people today are more infatuated with things that are not so easy to come by. Or maybe there are a lot of photographers like me that find the beauty in the not-so-beautiful.
Today, these abandoned statues have attracted a great deal of attention from visitors worldwide, so much so, that John Plaschal’s monthly and bi-monthly events are often sold out and guests come from many parts far and away. One day, Mr. Hankins may have them restored to their former glory and available to all who want to experience their original artistry, however, for now, put on your rainboots and try to get a ticket!
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There are many architectural highlights that visitors must check out while in Key West.
Hemingway House, Truman’s Little White House, Key West Lighthouse…just to name a few.
While these are amazing attractions, one of the best things to do is set out on foot and discover all of the small historic sites that are scattered throughout the city. As my husband and I made our way throughout the island, we encountered many homes, theaters, bars, churches, boats, gardens and other structures that give Key West its charm and style.
Shopping
You can start emptying your pocketbook in Mallory Square. There are a great many souvenir shops located here as well as local vendors, street performers and live music. The Key West Aquarium is positioned here and it is the starting point for the Old Town Trolley Tours. If setting out on foot is not your forte, then hop on board the trolley and see the city! If you do decide to take your own walking tour, make sure to watch out for the markers on some of the historic sites. You can call the number listed at the bottom of the marker for free audio description.
Restaurants and Bars
Just around the corner from Mallory Square your will find El Meson De Pepe restaurant. While the Cuban food was good, what I enjoyed most was the interior. The restaurant is filled with murals and art by Mario Sanchez, information on author Jose Marti and even an antique airplane hanging above diners! Since I had been to Cuba a few months prior, it felt very familiar and comfortable.
Sloppy Joe’s Bar and Restaurant is a favorite on Duval Street. Touted as a Key West tradition, it is usually filled with revelers until the early hours of the morning. Because of Covid restrictions, it was extremely quiet while we were visiting as was many of the numerous bars and restaurants that line the famed street. However, we have been there on other visits and it is one of the highlights if partying is your thing!
Churches
The Basilica of St. Mary Star of the Sea was one of the churches that I had marked high on my to-do list while in Key West. Adjacent to the Convent of Mary Immaculate, built by the Sisters of the Holy Names of Jesus and Mary in 1878, the church dates back to 1905. The church is a single nave structure and decorated quite simply with touches of gold and light blue, paying homage to the sea. There is a beautiful stained glass window located above the altar and some nice sculptures scattered throughout. Since the church is not air conditioned, the many sets of double doors that line each side of the church are opened for the comfort of the parishioners.
As we walked down Duval Street, we encountered St. Paul’s Episcopal Church. Though we only were able to admire the structure from the outside, we did learn that this church was preceded by three others on this historic site. The first and third was destroyed by hurricanes in 1846 and 1909 and the second was devastated by the Great Fire of 1886. This church was completed in 1919 and designed to stand the test of time and nature.
Historical Homes
On many of Key West’s main and side streets, you can find beautiful, historic homes of great significance. Whitehead Street boasts the Philip L. Cosgrove House, dating back to 1872. This house once belonged to Captain Philip L. Cosgrove, Sr. who commanded the U.S. lighthouse tender Mangrove, the first rescue ship to aid victims of the 1898 explosion of the U.S.S. Maine in Havana harbor. Incorporating the former house of federal judge James Locke, the house was expanded to two and a half stories in the Greek Revival style.
A few steps away from the Cosgrove House is the William Lowe Delaney/Theodore Holtsberg House which has a long line of owners dating back to 1844. The first owner, Benjamin Sawyer, built the first house on the property for his family and also used the structure for Key West’s port business until the completion of the Customs House. The next owner, Deputy Custom Collector William Lowe Delaney bought the property from Sawyer’s widow and built the house that stands today, a two story, Queen Anne revival with an asymmetrical floor plan. The home was transferred to Lavinia Artolozaga in 1918 upon Delaney’s death, and then again in 1925 to Romanian immigrant Theodore Holtsbert, one of the island’s first Jewish immigrants. Today, the home is part of the Banyan resort.
At the head of Whitehead Street is the Audubon House and Tropical Gardens. The house was built in 1830 by Captain John H. Geiger, pilot and master wrecker. The house was dedicated in 1960 by Mitchell Wolfson, to act as public museum to be named Audubon House commemorating John James Audubon’s visit to the island in 1832 to study the key’s birds.
Alexander Cruz/Julia Gardner House is located on the corner of Eaton and Whitehead Streets. A three story cigar factory was built on the site in 1889 by the Cruz Brothers, Andres, Alexander and Jose. Acting as a business and residence for the family the cigar factory was then bought by Alexander in 1900 where he then erected a two and a half story Neoclassical home in 1904. Fourteen years later, Julia Gardner, daughter of prominent land owner Richard Henry Albury, purchased the residence and lived there for thirty years.
On Duval Street, the Martin Hellings House was constructed in 1892 by Captain Martin L. Hellings and is one of only a few homes that was not built during the Civil War. Hellings, accepted the position of cable manager of the International Ocean Telegraph Company in Key West, an important position as telegraphs were the means of rapid long distance communication. Upon his death in 1908, the house was converted into offices and then purchased by the Key West Woman’s Club which later converted it into a public library.
Government Buildings and Museums
One of the most beautiful landmarks in Key West is located on Duval street. Founded in 1871 by Cuban exiles as an educational, civic and patriotic center, the multi-purpose facility serves as a museum, library, art gallery, theater and school. The famed Jose Marti united the exile community in 1892 and affectionately referred to the San Carlos as “La Casa Cuba”.
On Simonton, between Eaton and Caroline Streets, you can find the Federal Courthouse, which also houses the Social Security Administration and U.S. District Court. The building, as evidenced by the wording on the face of the building, acted as the Customs House.
On Front Street, you can find the Key West Museum of Art and History at the Custom House, built in 1891, which also acted as the island’s custom office, postal service and district courts. This four story construction was built in the Romanesque style and was the site of many significant historical events. In later years, it was transferred to the United States Navy and then abandoned for almost twenty years. It was purchased by the State of Florida in 1991 and leased to the Key West Art and Historical Society for use as a museum. Visitors can now experience two floors of exhibitions which tell the tale of Key West’s history, art and people.
The Monroe County Courthouse, located on Fleming Street, was completed in 1890 in a traditional county courthouse style and features a 100 foot tall clock tower that can be seen from almost any part of the island. Make sure to check out the massive Kapok (or Ceilba tree), located in front of the courthouse.
The Southernmost House holds the distinction of being (yes, you guessed it) the southernmost house in the United States. The house is located near the Southernmost Point attraction and although it acts as a hotel, it also acts as a museum with displays of collections of important and interesting documents, many signed by presidents of the United States, including John F. Kennedy’s inaugural address. Even if you don’t have time to visit the museum, take the time to inspect this impressive Queen Anne Victorian architectural gem.
If you are a maritime enthusiast, you can visit the U.S. Coast Guard Cutter Ingham Maritime Museum, on the waterfront near Fort Zachary Taylor. The museum ship served during WWII and Vietnam and is the most decorated ship in the United States service. It was the last American Warship afloat to have sunk a German U-Boat and you can learn about its illustrious history in its exhibit room. We took a quick picture in front of the cutter, however, we planned to return at the end of the day on Friday or Saturday…this ship is known for being one of the best places to view the beautiful Key West sunsets…and it serves wine and beer!
Other Historic Structures and Attractions
If you are an Ernest Hemingway fan, of course, you would visit his former home. If that leaves you wanting more, take a walk on Simonton Street and check out the Old Trev-more Hotel where Hemingway and his wife stayed in 1928. It was here where he penned Farewell to Arms from his second story room. In 1978, the hotel was converted to a private residence and renamed Casa Antigua.
There are two prominent art-deco style theaters in the historic district of Key West. The Key West Theater, originally built in 1848 as the First Baptist Church of Key West, has also operated as a dance club and concert venue. Today, it now operates as a performing arts center.
Further down Eaton Street is Tropic Cinema. Of the two, this is the one to take a moment to see. Showing independent movies on four screens, this cinema’s exterior is beautifully styled with neon signs and a statue of Marilyn Monroe standing over a vent, dress blowing surrounded by a sidewalk interspersed with stars.
Finally, at the end of your days (if you still have the stamina), venture down to the Historic Seaport Harbor Walk where you can have drinks and dinner, gaze (wistfully) at the beautiful boats, people watch and then wander over to nearby Sunset Pier to watch the awesome sunsets that grace Key West’s skies on most evenings.
The style of Key West, both natural and man made, can’t be beat!
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How do you combine history with a day at the beach?
In Key West, you can take a boat tour to the Dry Tortugas. On this island, seventy miles west of Key West, visitors can tour Fort Jefferson, bask in the sun and snorkel the clear waters of the Caribbean. A long ferry ride for a short time on the island? Surely there must be a better way!
Fort Zachary Taylor State Park on the southern part of the Key West, also offers a historic fort and a beach.
Built in the mid-1800s, Fort Zachary Taylor was one of three strongholds built to defend the southeastern United States coastline. Completed in 1866, it played significant roles in both the Civil War and the Spanish-American War and played a key role in guarding the harbor of Key West.
The fort, built by Irish brick masons, is two and a half stories tall and forms a trapezoid. Towering over fifty feet about the water, it walls are five feet thick. Back in its heyday, the fort housed 198 cannons and 450 men.
Only a few cannons (and none of the men) are in existence today, but we were able to walk along the top of the walls, enjoying the ocean views and in the inner areas where the remaining cannons are housed. There are multiple displays detailing life in the fort and ammunitions in the areas which once housed the barracks and if you are lucky, you might spy one of the iguanas that call the fort home.
After we had made our way throughout the historic structure, we exited the gates and took the Tropical Hammock Trail leading to the Fort Zachary Taylor State Park beach, passing the remains of the old Blacksmith Shop along the way.
Our walk wasn’t a long one and we found a rocky beach edged with calm waters and palm trees.
After we secured two chairs and an umbrella, it was time for some relaxation. The beach was decent, however, paying more for two chairs and an umbrella than we had in the Greek Isles, was a bit surprising. In addition, we were also glad to have brought snacks as the concession stand’s pricing was on the high side. As far as a refreshing swim was concerned, the water was dark and cloudy and extremely warm. Taking some time to relax together and get some sun seemed to be the only benefit of our visit.
So, while we enjoyed the fort and beach’s close proximity to the other attractions in Key West, what we expected was not what we got. I had seen the pictures of Fort Jefferson in the Dry Tortugas and maybe that skewed my perception of what we would be experiencing in Key West. Though I enjoyed the fort I felt we were a bit short-changed on the beach side.
Next time, I think I’m paying for that long ride to the Dry Tortugas!
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Address: 601 Howard England Way, Key West FL 33040
Hours: 0800-sundown, daily
Admission: $6.00 per vehicle (2-8 people). Pedestrians, bicyclists, extra passengers, passengers in vehicle with holder of Annual Individual Entrance Pass (Monroe County surcharge included in this price), $2.50. Single-occupant vehicle or motorcycle (Monroe County surcharge included in this price), $4.50.
Beach Amenities: Two chairs and umbrella, $30.00. Concessions and watersport rentals vary.
Having visited lighthouses in Ghana, Cuba and the Outer Banks of North Carolina, I know what great views can be had from the top.
When I spotted the Key West Lighthouse while we were visiting the Hemingway House from the upper terrace, I knew that a long winding staircase was in my future.
The next morning.
My husband’s future? Not really.
As we walked down the street in the early morning heat, he decided to duck into a small restaurant and enjoy a cold drink. Seeing the island from a bird’s eye view and exerting a great deal of energy first thing in the morning did not seem all that enticing when all he wanted to do was lay on a beach.
Off I went, on my own, anxious to see if there was anything that made this particular lighthouse, well…particular.
As I stood at the bottom of the towering beacon, gazing upward and taking a breath, I entered and began the climb. Eighty-eight steps to the top, I finally made it, occasionally stopping to to catch my breath and peer out of the random porthole.
The views of the island were breathtaking and the waters surrounding the island were glistening in the morning sun. It was enlightening to find the landmarks noted on the signs attached to the rail and as I scanned the horizon, I spotted some of the attractions I was interested in visiting. The best attraction that I spotted, however, was my husband, sitting on the porch of the restaurant drinking his Diet Coke…and was that a piece of Key Lime pie?
At the base of the lighthouse, I stopped for a minute to admire one of the life-like statues that grace the lighthouse and museum’s grounds and then headed over to the lighthouse keeper’s former home, now a museum.
The first lighthouse on the island was built in 1825 near the Southernmost Point. After it was destroyed by a hurricane in 1846, this new lighthouse was constructed inland on Whitehead Street and completed in 1848.
As I moved through the museum, I learned that the first lighthouse keeper was a woman, nearly unheard of during that time period. Many upgrades were completed over the years, including the installation of a Third Order Fresnel Lens which allowed the lens to be seen from a greater distance, the addition of the Keeper’s Quarters and the installation of electricity. Though the lighthouse served Key West and its maritime visitors and passersby for many years, it was decommissioned in 1969.
A large number of photographs lined the walls of the museum and a couple of the rooms were staged to allow a look into how the lighthouse keepers and their families lived. There were many other nautical items and aged lens displayed throughout the gallery.
Other buildings on the premises
Though the lighthouse has not been in use for many years, it has played an important part of Key West’s maritime heritage and is now an important part of Key West’s tourism. There are many things to see and do in Key West and this is one of the ones that all visitors should see.
Was it worth the sweltering climb?
Yes, because I got the views and key lime pie in the end!
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While on vacation, there are some things that I want to visit.
There are some things that my husband wants to visit.
Then, there are the things that we both want to visit.
While in Key West, Harry S. Truman’s Little White House was one of those things that we were both interested in.
Well, we were very interested until we got there and asked to purchase a ticket…wow quite expensive! In the end, we decided to take the tour, even after being told that we could not take photos inside the home…and everyone who knows me, knows that drives me crazy!
As we sat on the back veranda, our tour guide gave us a quick overview of the history of the property and of how it came to be the Key West home of President Truman.
Built in 1890, as the first officer’s quarters of the submarine base naval station, it was later converted into a single-family dwelling to house the base commandant. Originally a waterfront dwelling, the property’s ocean views were eventually blocked by a new building at the naval station.
Before President Truman’s acquisition, the home had its share of famous visitors. In 1912, President William Howard Taft traveled to Key West for a stay before traveling to Panama for an inspection of the canal which was under construction. While staying in the home during World War I, Thomas Edison perfected underwater weapons and the home acted as a command center for the remainder of the war.
Requiring some relaxation, President Harry S. Truman was ordered to take a warm-weathered vacation by his physician. His first trip, in 1946, was the first of eleven visits over the course of his time in office and it was on those visits that he and Bess put their decorative touches on it and made it their “home away from home”.
As we walked through the house with our guide, we were regaled with tales of the many important events that took place within its walls…and not necessarily the nightly poker games.
United States Cabinet members and foreign officials were regular visitors to the Truman home and it was where the the Joint Chiefs of Staff laid out the creation of the Department of Defense.
Later still, other presidential visitors included General Dwight D. Eisenhower, who later became president and President John F. Kennedy. In more recent years, President Jimmy Carter held a family reunion on the premises and a week of peace talks was initiated here by Secretary of State Colin Powell with President Robert Kocharyan of Armenia and Heydar Aliyev of Azerbaijan. Former President Bill Clinton and his wife, Hilary, have also spent a weekend relaxing in the Little White House.
After the President Truman left office, the house reverted to the role as home to the Naval Station commandant until 1974, when the submarine base was closed and later, that year, it was added to the U.S. National Register of Historic Places.
The home was deeded to the State of Florida on January 1, 1987. Almost a million dollars was spent restoring the house to its 1949 appearance and it was opened as a state historic site and museum.
As we were led through each of the home’s rooms, we garnered a better understanding of how the president spent his days and nights on vacation, as we examined items such as the President’s briefcase, books, telephone. Noting these last objects, obviously, at times, he found it necessary to mix business with pleasure.
My favorite items, however, were his poker table (which could tell a tale or two, I am sure), his “vacation” shirt, which still hangs in the closet and his famous “The Buck Stops Here” sign which still sits on his desk.
The home is in impeccable condition and looks much like one would expect a home to look like during the late 40’s and early 50’s.
Now back to the no photographs rule…
Of course, I wanted to capture what I was seeing as it appeared to be so original and Tru (pun intended!), however, as we were accompanied the entire time by our guide, it was by the hardest that I was able to snap a few photos when he was not looking.
With that being said, was the visit to the Little White House worth the $22.52?
We learned a lot about the United States’ 33rd president, were able to enjoy authentic 1950’s decor and walk through a piece of architecture that played an important part of our great country.
The most important thing, however, was that my husband and I were able to enjoy something together!
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One of the most famous and most visited landmarks of Key West is the former home of writer Ernest Hemingway.
Hemingway and his second wife, journalist Pauline Pfeiffer, made Key West their home after leaving Paris and returning to the United States in 1928. Enchanted by the island at the southern end of the Florida Keys, they purchased a home on one of the largest private lots in the city and settled into to the laid back and permissive lifestyle that the remote U.S. city offered.
The home, which stood on one of the most elevated spots on the island, was well constructed to endure the ferocity of the Caribbean hurricane seasons. It was lovingly restored and filled with European antiques that Hemingway purchased on his frequent trips abroad.
As we waited in the oppressive heat for our tour to start and were admiring the home’s stunning Spanish Colonial exterior, a cat or two wove their way around our feet. Figuring they were strays that had made their way onto the property, we followed our tour guide into the home and listened as he regaled us with tales of Hemingway’s colorful life.
Making our way through the living spaces that the writer shared with his wife and noting his cherished keepsakes, we also noted a cat or two…or three. Now, seeing cats outside was one thing, but there was a cat sleeping near the floor-to-ceiling window, one stretched out on the dining room table and another lounging on the bathroom window sill. An avid fan of architecture, I am usually engrossed in the details of historic homes and their furnishings, however, instead of appreciating the beautiful yellow patterned tile in the bathroom and Hemingway’s hunting trophies, I was playing spot the cat!
The guide led us up to the top floor’s rooms including the bedroom and there…on the bed…another cat!
We moved out to the gallery, admiring the nearby Key West Light House, and finally learned the story of the Hemingway cats.
As the story goes, Hemingway was given Snow White, a white six-toed cat, as a gift by a sea captain…a very auspicious gift, as polydactyl cats are thought by sailors to bring good luck. The cats on the property, between fifty and sixty, are descendants of Snow White. The cats bear the names of celebrities such as Marilyn Monroe and Humphrey Bogart and live a fat and happy life within the home and on the premises.
Making our way down the back stairs and into the back garden, we spied more of Snowball’s descendants sprawled out in the shade taking afternoon siestas. As we headed back upstairs to take a look inside the carriage house where Hemingway’s office was located and where he penned “The Snows of Kilimanjaro” and “For Whom the Bell Tolls”, there was another cat, no doubt dreaming about the inspiration that once occurred here.
Finally, we made our way to the rear of the property to lay our eyes on the inviting swimming pool, the first of the Florida Keys, that was installed by Pauline Pfeiffer as a surprise for her husband. Not something that he would have spent his hard-earned money on, he angrily (and a bit melodramatically) threw a penny into the pool, indicating that she had spent his last hard cent, despite the fact that it was paid for with her money. Pauline kept the penny and had it embedded in the concrete near the pool. Though he was not initially impressed with the addition to his home, it grew on him and he eventually had a six foot wall erected around the property so that he could swim nude, privy to only his wife’s and cat’s eyes.
Stopping to inspect the penny, which is still present, we also ducked into the gift shop which displayed books and gifts for sale and yes…a cat…sleeping high on one of the shelves!
As we made our way to the exit gates, we took note of the small houses erected for the cats tucked between the lush growth of the property. We also stopped by the Cat Cemetery and discovered the graves, etched with the deceased cats famous names. We paid our respects to Kim Novak, Willard Scott, Collette Colbert, Liz Taylor and all of the others who came before them.
What I though the most interesting was there was a cat named Pauline Pfeiffer! I wonder if she liked swimming in the beautiful pool?
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While there are many photographic opportunities on Key West, from architecture to jewel hued waters, there was one that I had missed on my previous trips.
I have driven on this highway, of which parts are quite spectacular and picturesque, and stretches from upper Maine to Florida. The highway spans 2,369 miles and connects most major cities in the eastern United States, culminating on the corner of Fleming and Whitehead streets in Key West.
The sign, one of the most popular places to have your picture taken, is in front of the US1 mile marker zero sign. Selfies rule here and then you can pop in to one of the souvenir shops and buy something to commemorate the occasion!
My husband and I, enroute to the Hemingway House, took a few moments here on our first day on the island and again on our last as we turned onto the highway in our rental car to head back to the mainland.
While there are many other things to see in Key West, you’ll probably pass near the sign while heading to other points of interest. It is a must-do, so you can say you did!
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For the past thirty years, I have worked for an airline. Anything flight-related captures my interest, but I do love reading or learning about travel in the past. Seeing photographs of how passengers treated traveling by plane with great reverence, it of utmost interest. Many years ago, my airline merged with the now defunct Pan American World Airways. Tragically, with the fall of this great company, was also the fall of the way people traveled in style. Instead of suits, dresses and Louis Vuitton luggage, you see travelers in hair rollers, pajamas and trash bags.
When I see anything that refers to Pan Am, I am instantly intrigued. My desire to revisit the golden age of flying transcends above all, so when my husband and I were in Key West and enroute to the Hemingway House and I spotted First Flight, I had to stop and check it out.
Located on Whitehead Street, First Flight, claims to be the birthplace of Pan American World Airways. In this building, the first airline tickets were sold in 1927 for what was to become the principal and largest international airline in the United States.
With its inception as an air mail and passenger service which operated between Key West and Havana, Cuba, it became known as the airline that shaped the international airline industry.
Now a restaurant and brewery which features a beautiful garden dining area under a tree-top canopy and an interior filled with Pan Am memorabilia and an indoor-outdoor bar made from an airplane wing. You can also visit the Mercantile for airline themed gifts and souvenirs.
Sound amazing?
I think so and I wish that I would have been able to see and experience it. But…after reading the placard outside the bar and photographing the building, it was time to move on as it was the middle of the day and much too early to drink or eat!
Hoping to come back later in our trip, we never did but it is on my list for my next visit to Key West.
First class caviar and service? You bet!
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