El Diario de Guatemala SEIS

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DIA SEIS

Sunday mornings are for sleeping in.

One would think, right?

Then why were my eyes wide open at 5:30 a.m.?

So…I edited pictures, checked Facebook, studied Spanish (of course), cooked a big breakfast (that I ate in bed), watched television and listened to the neighbor’s (very loud) conversations…

Finally, I just got up and dressed for the day. The sun was shining and the sky a brilliant blue…so perfect, in fact, that it was the first day I was able to wear shorts.
As I walked out of my apartment, I ran into a young man that I had met while touring my new school’s facilities. He was from Brighton, England and he was very impressed that I actually knew where his hometown was located. I was disappointed to find that he had decided to go with another school, but as I had learned, everyone has to find the right fit! Jack and I parted ways and I headed to the restaurant that I had had lunch on my first day, El Troccoli…their caprese panini was calling my name!

From my vantage point at the table near the window, I marveled at how alive the streets were. People were everywhere! It was obvious, even more so, when I made it down to the Plaza Mayor and from the traffic, that visitors descend on the city during the weekends in droves!

There was a church that I did not have the opportunity to visit two years ago. The Capilla Nuestra Senora de Belen. It’s in the southwestern part of the city and gave me the opportunity for some exercise.

Capilla Nuestra Senora de Belen
Capilla Nuestra Senora de Belen


The church sits in a small park and although I found it to be closed, I was still impressed with its architectural elements on the church’s and chapel’s facades.
A couple of blocks away, I stumbled upon Iglesia Escuela de Cristo. Standing in the park across the street, I watched the patrons exit after mass. Noting that I was wearing shorts, I didn’t feel comfortable entering boldly. I hung near the doors and tried to slide in unnoticed, but one of the ushers took his place a few feet away, saying “Adios” to everyone. Finally, I gathered the courage to ask him to if it were okay to take one photo…thank goodness he said yes! I later learned that there is a beautiful convent is on the premises (not open to the public) and this is the church where the wake was held for the Hermano Pedro, Central America’s only saint. For those familiar with Antigua’s architecture, it should look familiar as it was designed by architect Diego de Porres, who designed the Fountain of the Sirens in the Plaza Mayor and other buildings throughout the city.

Iglesia Escuela de Cristo
Iglesia Escuela de Cristo

My next stop was the Sanctuario San Francisco el Grande. We had visited this beautiful church during our last trip and we loved that there are many food and craft vendors within the church grounds. Although the church was closed, I was able to visit the tomb of Santo Hermano Pedro and then made an interesting discovery. What we had missed during our first visit because of the massive crowds on the premises for Semana Santa, was the Museo de Santo Hermano Pedro and ruins. The museum was extremely interesting as were the grounds and ruins. I know that most people might think that the ruins within the city appear to be similar, but I love investigating the uniqueness of each.

Sanctuario San Francisco el Grande
The Museum of Santo Hermano Pedro at Sanctuario San Francisco el Grande
The Ruins of Sanctuario San Francisco el Grande
The Ruins of Sanctuario San Francisco el Grande
The Ruins of Sanctuario San Francisco el Grande
The Ruins of Sanctuario San Francisco el Grande
The Ruins of Sanctuario San Francisco el Grande
The Ruins of Sanctuario San Francisco el Grande
The Ruins of Sanctuario San Francisco el Grande
The Tomb of Santo Hermano Pedro

Continuing my explorations of the city, I headed in the direction of the Museum of Semana Santa. Wouldn’t you know it’s open one day a month and that day had just passed?

Museo Semana Santa

I decided then to make my way toward Casa Santo Domingo passing the ruins of Iglesia de la Concepcion. Near the city’s entrance, I came upon a granizadas cart. Most people would be afraid to eat or drink things from the street in another country, but it sounded so good at the moment as I was sweating profusely, I decided to get one of the icy treats. Almost like a snow cone, the granizada was topped with pineapple and la lechera, sweetened condensed milk. It was extremely refreshing and after sitting on a bench in the shade, I was ready to go to my next stop.

The Ruins of Iglesia de la Concepcion

Casa Santa Domingo is a hotel in Antigua, but it also contains a couple of museums and ancient ruins. It was a good thing I was there during that time of day and in the museums because the skies opened up and gave the city a good washing!

Casa Santo Domingo Hotel
Casa Santo Domingo Hotel
Casa Santo Domingo Hotel
Museum of Santo Domingo
The Ruins of Santo Domingo
The Ruins of Santo Domingo
The Church of Santo Domingo
The Crypt of Santo Domingo
The Crypt of Santo Domingo
Museum of Santo Domingo
Museum of Santo Domingo
Museum of Santo Domingo
Casa Santo Domingo Hotel

Finally, with aching feet, I was hobbling back to my apartment when I came upon the Plaza Mayor, once again. The park was still bustling and I decided that I might have the strength in me for one more landmark. The 16th century Antigua Guatemala Cathedral. These ruins and church hold a special place in my heart as it was the first thing that my son and I encountered when we arrived two years ago. It was the end of the day and there weren’t many people inside of the cathedral ruins, so I was able to get some beautiful photographs and then say a prayer inside the church.

Ruins of Antigua Guatemala Cathedral
Ruins of Antigua Guatemala Cathedral
Ruins of Antigua Guatemala Cathedral
Ruins of Antigua Guatemala Cathedral
Ruins of Antigua Guatemala Cathedral
Ruins of Antigua Guatemala Cathedral
Ruins of Antigua Guatemala Cathedral
Ruins of Antigua Guatemala Cathedral
Ruins of Antigua Guatemala Cathedral
Ruins of Antigua Guatemala Cathedral
Ruins of Antigua Guatemala Cathedral
Ruins of Antigua Guatemala Cathedral
Ruins of Antigua Guatemala Cathedral
Ruins of Antigua Guatemala Cathedral
Antigua Guatemala Cathedral
Antigua Guatemala Cathedral
Antigua Guatemala Cathedral
Antigua Guatemala Cathedral


I then decided that I had seen so much more that I had planned for the day and it was definitely time to take an Aleve, have dinner and put my feet up.

I was here for school, first and foremost, but how can you not want to see everything that this beautiful colonial city is known for?

What I learned: Wear good shoes when traversing the city!

Photo of the day: Antigua Guatemala Cathedral Ruins

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Casa Troccoli

Iglesia de Belen

Iglesia Escuela de Cristo

Santuario San Francisco el Grande and Museo del Hermano Pedro

Casa Santo Domingo

  • https://www.casasantodomingo.com.gt/
  • Address: 3a Calle Oriente 28, Centro Histórico, Antigua, Guatemala 03001
  • Hours: Museum hours, Monday to Saturday, 0900-1800, Sunday, 1100-1800
  • Admission: Adults, foreign, Q40 (about $5.00 USD)

Catedral San Jose

Catedral de San Jose

El Diario de Guatemala TRES

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DIA TRES

Today I woke up eager to return to my classes and show off my stuff! I was feeling pretty good about yesterday!

I guess the day had other plans for me. First of all, my stove top wouldn’t heat up my pan and it took me about 20 minutes to cook my eggs, causing me to have to run to school, sans mask, getting a few dirty looks and making me arrive about a minute late. One minute late doesn’t sound so bad to most people but the flight attendant in me was freaking out…this “plane” was late and I hate making anyone wait.

My lessons began and I started out telling Heydi about my day yesterday. I was able to describe in Spanish, in pretty good detail about my trip to San Jeronimo, the supermarket, what I bought and what I had for dinner as well as what I watched on Netflix.

After this, she insisted on trying to teach me some verbs I didn’t know. The nerve! These verbs had very different endings and I was so confused. This led me to continually make simple mistakes…mistakes on things I actually knew which was completely frustrating!

She gave me homework and told me that I really need to study. Of course, I knew that I was going to have to study, but I just felt very degraded after class.
I returned to my Airbnb, made some mini quesadillas and eyed my cerveza…in that moment I felt like I really could use a beer! Later. There were things to see in the city!

The sun was out and it was warmer than usual, so I decided that I needed a little field trip and some exercise. Walking toward the north of the city, I began the climb to the top of Cerro de la Cruz, the hill that overlooks the city and sports a large cross. A few hundred steps later, I was sitting on the wall, gazing over the city and praying that the clouds would part a little more so that I could see the top of the Volcan de Agua, the volcano that towers over the area.

Cerro de la Cruz
Cerro de la Cruz
Cerro de la Cruz

While gazing over the city, I had spotted the ruins of the convent, Santa Maria Teresa De Jesus and decided that this would be my next destination. As I headed down the hill, I first stopped at the remains of the Church of Candelaria, captured a few photos and then walked to the convent. It had been one of the first ruins that my son, Ian, and I had visited two years ago and we had enjoyed its beautiful cloister and fountain. I spent some time meandering through its many rooms and was just about to leave when the gentleman who sold me my ticket asked me a question (in Spanish).

The ruins of the Church of Candelaria

Santa Maria Teresa De Jesus

“Did you see the crypt and the basilica?”

Um, no.

He showed me on the map, adjacent to the door, the layout of the building and pointing to a set of stairs in a room, that I had not entered as I thought it to be a storage room.

I followed his directions and amazingly, there was a set of steps leading down into a room which also led to the ruins of the basilica. In the far corner, there was also a set of stairs leading to the old crypt.

There was nothing much in the crypt, but as I headed back up and into the basilica, I was simply amazed. Not just because you could still see much of the workmanship being restored, but because it is baffling that visitors are allowed in this area of construction…scaffolding, tools, bags of cement and goodness knows what else filled the space. In the United States, this would have been condemned and no one allowed near, much less in the building. Despite the mess, it was wonderful to see this space up close, as I had only spied it from the street, behind the gate.

Thanking the gentleman, we exchanged pleasantries (in Spanish, of course) and I explained that I was in Antigua for Spanish school. He asked how long I had been there and I said it was my second day. He told me I was very smart for learning that much in just two days! Lol! I got a good laugh out of that but I went on letting him believe I was muy inteligente!

Continuing my explorations, I admired the architecture of the area and the unique doors and doorknockers and then headed over to the El Carmen market, pausing to snap a few photos of the ruins of El Carmen church next door.

Ruins of El Carmen Catholic Church
Ruins of El Carmen Catholic Church

I had vowed not to buy anything early in my trip, but next thing you know I was walking out with a table runner. Okay, I am a bit of a sucker sometimes…it was Father’s Day in Guatemala, after all, and he hadn’t had a sale all day!

Mercado de Artesanias El Carmen

As I exited the market, I heard a large boom! Praying it wasn’t one of the nearby volcanoes, I realized that I was feeling a few raindrops!

Time to go home.

What do you do when it’s pouring outside?

Have happy hour!

That was a good ending to the day that didn’t start so well!

What I learned: There are many hidden treasures in Guatemala, you just have to talk to the right person, in the right language, to find them!

Photo of the day: The Cloister of Convento Santa Teresa de Jesus

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Cerro de La Cruz

  • Address: Al final de la 1ª Avenida Norte, Antigua, Guatemala 03001
  • Hours: 0700-1800, daily
  • Admission: free

Convento Santa Teresa De Jesus

  • Address: 1era calle Oriente y 4a Avenida sur. Antigua Guatemala
  • Hours: 0800-1700, daily
  • Admission: Q40 (about $5.50 US)

Mercado de Artesanias El Carmen

  • Address: Avenida 3ra, 3ra Calle Oriente, Antigua 03001
  • Hours: 0800-2000, daily

The Hall and the Fossils

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Many years ago, while some work was being completed on our house, the electrician, noting my three very active boys, offered up a recommendation.

No, it’s not what you’re thinking…not chandeliers or track lighting…

He suggested that I take my boys fossil hunting!

Yes, fossil hunting!

Having a boy of his own, he was fully aware of the challenges of finding things to keep children occupied. Describing a place that he often took his son, he detailed all of the shark teeth and fossilized items they found on their visits. About an hour and a half away, located on the Potomac River in the northern neck of Virginia, he chronicled the property as the former home of Confederate Robert E. Lee, an historic estate open to visitors, although it was the area at the rear of the property, along the waterway that he wanted us to experience.

A few days later, I loaded the boys in the car and made that trip. We found dozens of ancient shark teeth, buried in the sandy banks, in that particular location and also in nearby Westmoreland State Park. Merely gazing at Lee’s former home as we drove by, I never gave the thought of visiting the stately manor much credence.

Years passed and the bags of shark teeth sat in a container on my kitchen countertop. As the restrictions from Covid lingered, I found myself away from work and desperately searching for things to occupy myself and fulfill my wanderlust desires. While cleaning the kitchen one day, I came upon one of those bags and thought about that sunny, fall day when we dug in the sand and carefully sifted it in hopes of discovering some ancient treasures. I remembered passing the Lee estate and decided to do an internet search to see if it was open to visitors. Certainly, I could stand to feel like a tourist again and maybe even do a little sand sifting!

On a mid-January day, my husband and I headed out to Montross, Virginia. Unseasonably warm and sunny, it was the perfect day to go sight-seeing. Upon our arrival, we ventured into the Visitor’s Center, paid our admission, collected our audio guide and wandered through the adjacent exhibit which gave an overview of the historical significance of the site as well its timeline.

Leaving the center, we then made our way down a long walkway toward the “Great House”.

Built by Thomas Lee in 1738, this plantation remained in the Lee family for four generations that helped to define our nation. While most people are aware that Thomas Jefferson penned the Declaration of Independence, many don’t know the names of the signers, aside from Jefferson, Benjamin Franklin, John Adams and John Hancock. In fact, Richard Henry Lee and Francis Lightfoot Lee, both born at Stratford Hall, were two of fifty-six endorsers during 1776.

Years later, the birth of Robert Edward Lee, in 1807, was documented in the plantation journals. This young man called Stratford Hall his home until leaving to serve as General-in-Chief of the Confederate States Army during the American Civil War from 1861 until 1865.

Designated as a National Historic Landmark in 1960, the property is under the care of the National Park Service and the United States Department of the Interior. The grounds are impeccably kept and the home is proportionately constructed and in exemplary condition.

We first made our way through both levels of the Great House, examining the period furniture, original colonial pine floors, brick masonry and oil paintings. The home is elegantly furnished and exhibits the wealth of the Lee family during the time.

Heading outside, we analyzed the home’s meritorious brick exterior, acknowledging the skillful craftsmanship, before taking to task the other structures located on the 2,000 acre property…the Overseer’s work place, the Payne cabin (home of the enslaved Payne family and the grave marker of “Uncle Wes” William Westley Payne), the spring house, the gardens, the northeast out-building, the gardener’s cottage, the burial vault, the smokehouse, the kitchen, the slave quarters, the southwest out-building and the coach house and stables. The property is vast, including marked nature trails, so allow a few hours see everything.

Great House Exterior
The Overseer’s Cabin
Overseer’s Cabin
Payne Cabin
Payne Cabin
The Grave of “Uncle Wes” William Westley Payne
The Spring House
The Spring House
Stratford Hall Gardens
Northwest Outbuilding
The Gardener’s Cottage
The Gardener’s Cottage
Burial Vault
Burial Vault
Kitchen and Smokehouse
Craftsmen’s Work and Living Quarters
Slave Quarters
Slave Quarters
Coach House and Stables
Coach House and Stables
Nature Trails

Since we still had a bit of time remaining before the winter sun slide beyond the horizon, we headed down to the beach area. Before we ditched our shoes for our coastal explorations, we investigated the grist mill with its paddle wheel and the lake.

Grist Mill
Grist Mill

Finally, it was time to see if I would have any luck with our specimen search. We had the beach to ourselves and we thoroughly combed the area and dug through the sand as much as my cold fingers could stand.

Potomac River Beach

Nothing.

Oh well, maybe I just don’t have the patience that I used to.

Leaving empty-handed, we made a quick stop at the slave cemetery. Sadly, we did not even have some shells to leave on the marker in remembrance of those who served the Lee family faithfully.

Slave Cemetery

Although it was the perfect day for sightseeing, obviously it wasn’t the perfect day for fossil hunting.

The boys will simply have to join me next time!

Stratford Hall

  • https://www.stratfordhall.org/
  • Address: 483 Great House Rd, Stratford, Virginia 22558-0001
  • Hours: 1000-1700, Wednesday through Sunday. Closed Monday and Tuesday.
  • Admission: Adults (ages 14+), $12.00, Children (ages 6-13), $5.00, Children (under 5), free. Grounds Pass (access to the hiking trails, public beach area, gardens, public grounds, Visitor Center, and Gift Shop only), Adults, $8.00, Children, $5.00.

Charming Cabo

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Cancun? Yes. Cozumel? Yes. Puerto Vallarta? Yes.

Los Cabos? No.

When the opportunity presented itself to spend a little time in Los Cabos, my first, I decided that it would be nice see the differences between these Mexican cities.

During our long drive to the hotel, I noticed that the scenery was certainly different. Dry and arid, the landscape offered little in the way of buildings or any other sights until we passed through the town of San Jose del Cabo, filled with colorful homes and businesses.

Crossing the bridge over the estuary, we began to spy larger properties lining the coast and more greenery. Our hotel, the J.W. Marriott, was one of the nicest I have ever stayed in. The rooms were beautiful and the grounds, impeccable. During our first afternoon, we spent time hanging in the countless pools that cascaded down the hillside, overlooking the Atlantic Ocean. As we swam and waded near the pool bar, we enjoyed our drinks, the music and the occasional crash of the giant waves below.

A little dismayed that we were not walking distance to shopping or restaurants, we were able to secure a short Uber ride into nearby San Jose del Cabo, the town we had passed through on our way to the hotel. Dropped off in the center, near the town square, we marveled at the well-lit streets filled with galleries, shops, restaurants and colonial architecture. It truly was one of the most charming Mexican towns I had ever been to!

Colorful flags fluttered overhead as we approached Plaza Mijares. Here the town’s residents gathered on the Saturday night to visit near the gazebo and listen to music being performed on the stage. It was a lively affair, but the thing that caught my attention was Mission San Jose del Cabo Anuiti, the Catholic church keeping watch over the festivities from its perch on the high steps. With its origins dating back to 1730, the church is dedicated to St. Joseph and is the center of the community.

After a few quick photos with the San Jose del Cabo sign in front of the church, we decided to take a quick look inside. The church was bright and airy, narrow with high ceilings, but sadly in need of some repair. Not wanting to interrupt the parishioners in prayer, we stood at the rear and snapped a couple of quick photos.

Since we were in search of our dinner we continued on, occasionally ducking into the one of the countless galleries and courtyards filled with sculpture and cute shops stocked with intricately crafted souvenirs. Venturing away from the busier food joints, we finally found a quaint eatery filled with locals. I always say, “eat where the locals eat” and I can assert that we were not disappointed! After some amazing tacos, we decided to call it a night and head back to our home away from home.

The next morning, I awoke early and decided to spend a bit of time exploring the grounds of our wondrous hotel. Courtyards boasted sculpture and indigenous flowers and plants. The walkways were lined with color, the blossoms still wet with the morning’s dew. As I made my way back down to the lowest level, where we had spent time the day before, I skirted the chairs and umbrellas which awaited the sun-seeking guests and headed down the wooden staircase to the beach. Enjoying the warm sands between my toes, I made my way southward. The roar of the crashing waves that we heard the day before, was more intimidating in person and I noted that there were no beach chairs here. I wondered if that was due to Covid or just as a deterrent by the hotel to keep people off of the beach and out of the powerful current.

I pondered this as I continued my stroll skirting the rocks and tide pools. Why would someone travel all this way to stay at a beach resort where they could not use the beach? The ocean was beautiful to look out upon and the hotel’s cascading infinity pools were spectacular and refreshing, but couldn’t you enjoy an amazing pool elsewhere? Like, say Vegas? As a beach lover, I was a little perplexed and as I gazed up and down the beach, I rarely saw a soul.

Finishing my waterfront walk, I headed back up the hillside to the hotel grounds. It was getting close to the time to pack up and prepare to make my way back to the airport for my flight.

As I spoke to a fellow passenger on my flight, I was asked how I had enjoyed my trip to Los Cabos. Would I go back for a longer stay?

While I had enjoyed my visit, my answer was a convoluted one. Personally, I would love to go back to see more of San Jose del Cabo and maybe stay in one of the hotels in the nearby hotel zone…if and only if…I learned that the beaches were usable. My hotel was beautiful but left me wanting more. I think that those desiring privacy and luxury would love the J.W. Marriott, but I don’t think it would be my choice for more than a couple of nights.

How did Los Cabos compare to other Mexican cities that I visited in the past? It was a lovely place that I think that I would return to one day, however, the turquoise waters of Cancun and Cozumel are more of a draw for the things I enjoy.

With over two million visitors per year, Los Cabos is attractive to many and worth a look whether it be a short stay or long. I think the strength of the attraction is what someone is searching for…be it privacy, partying, sightseeing, golf or deep-sea fishing…definitely its allure is in the eye of the beholder.

I guess I was eyeing something not necessarily better, just a little bit different.

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J.W. Marriott

Mission San Jose del Cabo Anuiti

The Architecture of St. Augustine

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Many worldwide cities have their own style of architecture that sets them apart.  You know what I mean…when you look at a photo, you can say “I recognize that place”.  

While St.  Augustine doesn’t entirely have one distinct look per se, although many of Henry Flagler’s creations appear similar, it definitely has a some of the oldest buildings and most historic buildings in the continental United States.  It has a classic and picturesque look with many styles from different eras…Spanish Colonial, Spanish Renaissance Revival, Moorish, Neoclassical, Queen Anne, Second Renaissance Revival, Vernacular.  It’s residences, churches and businesses are not overshadowed by skyscrapers and the city has enforced building codes to preserve the periods of architecture throughout the area. 

Many people opt to take a trolley tour through the city, jumping off at many of the attractions and landmarks.  This covers many historical edifices, however, when traveling by foot, you will encounter so much more some hidden away on mossy tree-lined streets.  As I hoofed it through the city, I was amazed at the number of historical markers describing past and present buildings as well as other important events.  I love history and this further reinforced what an amazing and rich place St. Augustine is!

Here’s a few to look out for:

The Governor’s House.  Located on the Plaza de la Constitution, this building dates back to 1598 and has been home to several government offices.  Today it operates as a museum and houses exhibits in the main lobby which highlights the city’s history. 

Spanish Dragoon Barracks.  The two-story coquina shingled roof structure was erected on the site of another current building.  The building housed the barracks for the Spanish Dragoon’s but was razed in 1822.  Today a memorial plaque stands on the site. 

Pena-Peck House.  The Pena-Peck House now operates as a Historic Museum.  Built in 1750, the house is a fabulous example of the meshing of three distinct styles, First Spanish, Territorial and British, thereby making it larger than many of its neighbors. The structure also operates as The Woman’s Exchange carrying unique works of art, fashion and home decor and is a much sought-after wedding venue.

Dr. Peck House.  Dating back to 1750, this house served as the home of the Royal Treasurer and later, the Governor.

Tovar House and Gonzalez-Alvarez House.  Together, these two houses comprise the Oldest House Museum Complex with the Tovar House taking the prize for the city’s Oldest House.  Located on St. Francis Street, these structures are on the Old Town Trolley tour (Stop #16) and open to the public.  Dating back to the 1700s, these two homes have a rich history and have been occupied by many over the years…the living and some say the “dead”.  Reports of a shadowy male figure, strange lights and moving objects attract those not only interested in the buildings’ historical status!

St. Francis Barracks.  Once part of a Franciscan Chapel, this building housed the British Military from 1763-1783, the Spanish from 1783-1821 and then the United States.  Today, the barracks and military reservation house the Headquarters of the Military Department of the State of Florida and the Headquarters of the National Guard.

St. Augustine Visitor Information Center.  While the building itself is a new construction, I beg you to stop by and check out the Old Spanish Trail Zero Milestone on the center’s grounds as well as Fuente de Los Canos de San Francisco.  The Old Spanish Trail was opened in 1929 and was constructed to provide a continuous highway route from Florida to California and its name pays homage Spanish heritage and missions of the southwest and the south.  Nearby, the set of masks that decorate the fountain was gifted to St. Augustine by the City of Aviles, the birthplace of  Pedro Melendez, St. Augustine’s founder.  They are reproductions of the six faces that serve as waterspouts for the municipal fountain in the San Francisco neighborhood of Aviles.  Also, out the lovely clock near the Visitor’s Center parking garage.

Water Wheel at Mill Top Tavern.  The working water wheel is a 19th century grist mill driven by a well at the bottom of the wheel pumped to drive the wheel.  Quite the unexpected piece of equipment as you venture into this little plaza…worth a look-see or an outdoor meal nearby to watch it work its magic.

The Salcedo House.  On this site stands the former home of Jorge Biassou, the nation’s first black general in 1796.  Biassou was one of the original leaders of the slave uprising in Haiti and for his service to the Spanish against the French, he became a Spanish General and Florida’s second highest paid official.

Ximenez- Fatio House. Built in 1798 for use as a general store, tavern and family home.  Later in operated as a boarding house to provide lodging for fortis earliest tourists.  Today the house operates as a lifestyle museum highlighting the history and heritage of Florida.

There are so many more buildings to discover in St. Augustine, some of which I’ve previously covered in my blog. Put on your sneakers and get ready to do a lot of walking and a lot of exploring!

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Governor’s House

  • Address:  48 King Street, St. Augustine, Florida. 32084
  • Hours:  Monday thru Saturday, 1000-1700, Sunday, 1300-1700. Closed Thanksgiving, Christmas Eve and Christmas Day.
  • Admission:  General Admission, free.  Donations accepted.

Spanish Dragoon Barracks

  • Address:  Cordova Street, St. Augustine, Florida. 32084
  • Hours:  none, marker can be read from sidewalk.
  • Admission:  Not open to the public

Pena-Peck House

  • Address:  143 St. George Street, St. Augustine, Florida. 32084
  • Hours:  Friday and Saturday,  1100-1600
  • Admission: free, donations accepted 

Dr. Peck House

  • Address:  St. George Street, St. Augustine, Florida 32084
  • Hours:  none, marker can be read from sidewalk.
  • Admission: Not open to the public

Tovar House

  • Address:  14 and 22 St. Francis Street, St. Augustine, Florida. 32084
  • Hours:  1000-1700, daily.  Closed Thanksgiving, Christmas Eve and Christmas Day.
  • Admission: Adults, $8.00, Seniors (55+), $7.00, Students (valid id), $4.00, Children (ages 0-6), free, Military (valid id), $7.00 

Old Spanish Trail Zero Milestone, Fuente de Los Canos de San Francisco, St. Augustine Visitor Center

  • Address:  10 S. Castillo Drive, St. Augustine, Florida. 32084
  • Hours:  Visitor Center, 0830-1730, daily.  Grounds, 24 hours, daily.
  • Admission:  free

Water Wheel at Mill Top Tavern

  • Address:  19 St. George Street, St. Augustine, Florida. 32084
  • Hours: 24 hours, daily
  • Admission: free

Salcedo House

  • Address:  42 St. George Street, St. Augustine, Florida. 32084
  • Hours:  none, marker can be read from sidewalk.
  • Admission:  Not open to the public

Ximenez- Fatio House

  • Address:  20 Aviles Street, St. Augustine, Florida. 32084
  • Hours:  Monday thru Saturday, 1000-1700
  • Admission:  By tour, Adults, $10.00, Students/Seniors/Active Military/First Responders/Educators, $8.00, Saint John’s County Residents, $5.00

Lighthouse, Nighthouse

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For a few days, while visiting St. Augustine, I had spied the St. Augustine Lighthouse across the waters of the Matanzas Bay.

Its red, black and white eye-catching color-scheme was hard to miss and I continually vowed that I would make my way over the Bridge of Lions to Anastasia Island for a closer look.

Finally, I patiently waited for a boat to pass through the raised bridge, glancing at the clock to make sure I had enough time to see the lighthouse, its grounds and the museum. Arriving later in the afternoon, I paid my admission in the gift shop and headed out back to the densely grown landscape and followed the path toward the towering beacon.

Built between 1871 and 1874, the lighthouse not only has a colorful body, but a colorful past. Steering numerous vessels to safety along Florida’s coastal waters, the current structure was preceded by another, which eventually fell into ruin. The new tower was put into service with a new first order Fresnel lens and lit for the first time in October 1874 by its first keeper, William Russell. Its lens, handblown in Paris, stood nine feet tall.

For twenty years, the lighthouse was kept by William A. Harn, a Union war hero, who had fought during the Battle of Gettysburg. He and his wife lived in a Victorian style keeper’s house, along with their six daughters. During 1885, the lamp was converted to kerosene and felt the Charleston earthquake in 1886, with its tower swaying violently. It served as a lookout post during World War II and was eventually modernized when plumbing was installed in 1907 and electricity in 1925. Only ten years later, it was the last lighthouse in Florida to be electrified and was fully automated in 1955. Today, the light continues to burn as a private aid for navigation.

Entering the structure and admiring the initial exhibits, I then made my way up the 219 steps to the top of the lighthouse, examining the information on each level and appreciating the effort someone had made to remind me of how many more steps my weary feet had to climb.

Finally, I made it!

At one hundred and sixty-five feet above sea level, I gazed out at the spectacular views of the city of St. Augustine, Anastasia Island and the ocean. It was breezy but a beautiful, clear day and I was amazed with how far down the coast I could see.

Eventually, I made my way down the winding staircase and headed out to see what other exhibits were offered by the Lighthouse and Maritime Museum.

My next stop was at the Keepers’ House. In this building, I learned about life at the Light Station and studied the furnishing and remnants of the families that once resided there. Out front, I admired the memorial to the Crew of the United States Coast Guard E-2C Radar Surveillance Aircraft Number 3501. Other buildings on the premises included a 1941 U.S. Coast Guard barracks and a 1936 garage that was home to a jeep repair facility during World War II. The site is also a National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration weather station. Another stop demonstrated the art of boat making and you can see the First Order Fresnel lens. The best part of the grounds, however, was that you could incorporate sightseeing with a bit of exercise with numerous trails leading through the dense overgrowth that also offered different views of the lighthouse.

Behind the Scenes tours are offered every day, from 1100 to 1500, on the hour, and offer visitors insight into the role that the Light Station has played in St. Augustine’s history and provides a glimpse into the preservation and research work that goes on at the Museum. Thousands of volunteer hours provide what is needed to keep this historic structure up and running and available to visitors and locals alike.

What I thought most fascinating, however, is that the location of the lighthouse has been subject of many ghost stories and supernatural legends. Visitors and volunteers have experienced a great deal of paranormal activity throughout the site and it has attracted the attention of televisions’ Ghost Hunters, My Ghost Story and Most Terrifying Places in America which have featured the lighthouse on their series. For those interested in this type of phenomena, the St. Augustine Lighthouse & Maritime Museum offers tickets for a number of “Dark of the Moon” ghost tours and ghost-themed private events to the public.

As much as I loved my visit in the light of day, I think that the lighthouse during the hours of night might be an extremely interesting and possibly terrifying thing to do!

Who knows who you might meet? The ghosts of past keepers, WWII soldiers or even Floridian explorers? No telling, but in this case, I think you would you have to refer to this Lighthouse as a Nighthouse!

Regardless, this is a must-see in St. Augustine!

St. Augustine Lighthouse and Maritime Museum

  • https://www.staugustinelighthouse.org/
  • Address: 100 Red Cox Drive, St. Augustine, Florida 32080-5443
  • Hours: 0900-1800, daily. Closed Thanksgiving Day and Christmas Day.
  • Admission: Adults, $14.95, Seniors (ages 60+), $12.95, Children (ages 12 or under), $12.95

King’s Castle

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While visitor’s may be aware of the connection of two of King Streets most famous landmarks, Flagler College and The Lightner Museum, many may not know that these came to fruition because of the Villa Zorayda.

Villa Zorayda, an architectural masterpiece, was built by Franklin Smith in 1883, in the Moorish style of the Alhambra Palace in Granada, Spain. When Henry Flagler, millionaire American industrialist, founder of Standard Oil and the Florida East Coast Railway, arrived in St. Augustine in 1883 with his new wife, they found the hotel facilities and transportation systems to be inadequate. Flagler, intrigued by the stunning Villa Zorayda, offered to buy it for his honeymoon but was turned down by the owner, Franklin W. Smith. Flagler then went on to build his own architectural masterpieces on King Street.

Villa Zorayda, also known as Zorayda Castle, was Smith’s winter home and housed his extensive art and antique collection. Over the years, it was utilized as a restaurant, a nightclub, a gambling casino and a hotel. After renovations in 2003, it was reopened to the public in 2008 as a museum.

My first encounter with the architectural marvel was while riding the Old Town Trolley. As we drove through the parking lot to drop off some riders, I was intrigued with the beautiful style, but it wasn’t until the next day when I had a bit of time on my hands to hot foot it over for a quick look-see.

Of course, as I entered, I was met with my least favorite phrase, “Photography Not Permitted”. Argh! Still, I paid my admission, put on my audio guide headphones and started my tour in the small study.

Whoa! This place was amazing! Had I stepped into a middle eastern palace? It sure looked like it!

The trim, the gold detailing, the gorgeous hand-painted tiles! And this was just in the first room, the Prayer Room. Each of the rooms were similarly styled and filled with Franklin Smith’s art and antique collection, now owned by Abraham Mussallem, an authority on oriental rugs and Egyptian artifacts who also purchased the villa in 1913.

The highlight of the villa is the central two-story center court which can be gazed upon from both levels. Rooms surrounding this courtyard are similarly decorated and are bedecked with alabaster and plaster reliefs, replicas of the walls of the Alhambra Palace. “There is no conqueror but God” is reproduced in the tracery of the Alhambra and is inscribed in Arabic script above the front entrance. Filling the space are hand painted wood panels, intricately designed doorways and geometrically shaped windows and colorful stained glass. There are Middle Eastern brass lamps, Oriental rugs, sculptures, carved furniture and Egyptian artifacts throughout. The most curious piece of the collection, however, is the Sacred Cat Rug made from the hairs of ancient cats that roamed the Nile River and is over 2400 years old.

The highlight of the villa is the central two-story center court which can be gazed upon from both levels. Rooms surrounding this courtyard are similarly decorated and are bedecked with alabaster and plaster reliefs, replicas of the walls of the Alhambra Palace. “There is no conqueror but God” is reproduced in the tracery of the Alhambra and is inscribed in Arabic script above the front entrance. Filling the space are hand painted wood panels, intricately designed doorways and geometrically shaped windows and colorful stained glass. There are Middle Eastern brass lamps, Oriental rugs, sculptures, carved furniture and Egyptian artifacts throughout. The most curious piece of the collection, however, is the Sacred Cat Rug made from the hairs of ancient cats that roamed the Nile River and is over 2400 years old.

Sacred Cat Rug

It was awe-inspiring to wander from room to room studying each piece of the collection, including items from its gaming and club days. My favorite room, however, was on the second floor…the Harem Room. More of a small porch, it had a small star-shaped window to peek into the room and decorated with blue and white tiles and ornamentation. An exquisite wooden swing hung in the entry area to this room and I was tempted to take a quick ride…

Harem Room

I did not, of course, but you know what I did do?

I snuck a few pictures…okay more than a few…since the woman manning the front desk wasn’t too worried about interacting with the customers…even when paying…much less watching to see if we were disobeying instructions!

 In all, my visit lasted about forty-five minutes, but was worth the exploration of this unique property and its furnishings. If you are visiting St. Augustine and making your way down King Street to witness the unique stunning structures that are Flagler College and the Lightner Museum, take a bit of time to stop in and check out the Castle of King Street, Villa Zorayda.

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Villa Zorayda

  • https://villazorayda.com/
  • Address: 83 King Street, St. Augustine, Florida 32084
  • Hours: Monday to Saturday, 1000-1700, Sunday 1100-1600. Closed Easter, Mother’s Day, Father’s Day, Thanksgiving, Christmas Eve and Christmas Day.
  • Admission: Adults (ages 13-59), $12.00, Children (ages 7-12), $5.00, Seniors (ages 60 and over), $11.00.
  • Parking: Free parking for one vehicle while visiting the museum.

Just Like the Caribbean

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Of all the things to love about St. Augustine, there is one that stands out.

Castillo de San Marcos.

I love visiting forts and have been to many throughout the world. What stands out to me about this particular one, however, is that even though it is poised on American soil, as you gaze upon its coquina walls, you can’t help but feel like you’ve been transported to the Caribbean.

Sitting on the shores of Matanzas Bay, the Castillo San Marcos National Monument was built over 340 years ago by the Spanish to protect the sea routes and the city. Builders were brought from Havana and workers retrieved the soft coquina stone from Anastasia island to construct the 26 foot high star-shaped walls over the course of twenty-three years.

Over time, the Castillo de San Marcos underwent many changes including the raising of its walls an additional six feet and the transference of ownership multiple times. While the Spanish instituted its construction, occupation was later transferred by treaty to the British and renamed St. Marks. The Spanish regained the fort in 1784 and changed the name back to its original moniker. In 1821, Spain sold the property to the United States, which renamed it Fort Marion (after Francis Marion) and appropriated it for use by the United States Army until 1899. In 1861, Florida, which had joined the Confederate States of America, gave the fort to the Confederates however, during the following year, the fort was taken by the Union. During this time, storerooms were converted to prison cells and Native Americans (among them Chief Osceola) were held captive in the fort as well as prisoners during the Spanish-American War in 1898. A year later, the fort was discontinued as a military base and named a national monument in 1900 with its original name being restored in 1942.

Over its illustrious history, Castillo de San Marcos has flown six different flags and today remains the oldest and largest masonry fortress within the continental United States. Definitely something to see outside of the Caribbean!

As I made my way to the ticket booth, I anxiously eyed the extensive line snaking out from the entrance. Only one hundred people were being allowed to visit the fort at one time, however, the line moved much quicker than I anticipated and I was walking past the drawbridge and into the fort’s courtyard before I knew it.

Much like other forts I have visited prior, there were two levels to explore…the lower level which housed many exhibits, prison cells and living and working quarters and the upper level which provided expansive views of the historic city, the bay and nearby Anastasia Island, whose natural elements helped to birth the structure. While I enjoyed wandering from from room to room on the lower level, it is always the upper levels that are most fascinating with it guard towers and ornately engraved cannons.

A popular tourist attraction in St. Augustine, the fort is run by the National Park Service and is well preserved and maintained. After your tour of this historical structure, spend some time walking along the waterfront area and enjoy the expanse of ground that fronts the fort. Take a deep breath, close your eyes and imagine…with its water views and palms trees, it certainly does feel as though you are in the presence of a great Caribbean citadel.

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Castillo de San Marcos National Monument

  • https://www.nps.gov/casa/index.htm
  • Address: 1 S Castillo Dr, Saint Augustine Beach, FL 32084-3252
  • Hours: 0900-1730 (last admission 1700), daily. Park grounds closed from midnight until 0530. Closed Thanksgiving and Christmas Day.
  • Admission: Adults (16 years and over), $15.00 (good for 7 consecutive days). Children (15 years and younger), free if accompanied by adult. Maximum capacity of 100 visitors in the fort at any time.
  • Parking: The city of St. Augustine maintains a parking lot in front of the Castillo. Parking is $2.50 per hour and paid at automated stations which accept currency, credit and debit. The city’s parking garage is located a block away and provides additional shaded parking.

The Whole Ball of Wax

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Fog is often a problem in coastal areas and it seems that St. Augustine gets its fair share of foggy mornings and evenings.

Setting out early on my last day, the plan was to visit Castillo de San Marcos National Monument, however, as I made my way towards the historic district, I noticed that the fort was barely visible in the pea-soup-like gloom. Thinking about the photographs that I had hoped to capture, I decided that this point of interest might have to wait until later when the haze had dissipated and the sun was high above, illuminating the old structure.

But what could occupy me in the meantime?

Walking away from the waterfront area, I happened upon Potter’s Wax Museum. I had already visited the statue of Henry Flagler which has a seat of honor on the sidewalk in front of the museum. To be honest, the museum wasn’t at the top of my list of things that I really wanted to see, but as I checked the hourly weather forecast and realized that the fog was going to be here for a little while, I decided that it was good as anything else to occupy my time.

Having visited Madame Tussaud’s in London, Amsterdam and Las Vegas, I knew the caliber of these attractions. Did I expect to see the same quality of art in this building that is the oldest pharmacy in the United States? Probably not, but the oldest wax museum in the United States inside of the oldest pharmacy in the United States was probably worth a look!

The small lobby is the ticket office for the wax museum but it should be given a few minutes inspection before continuing. A collection of ancient medications and medical objects are housed in two large glass cases…elixirs to cure headaches, malaria, and fevers to pharmaceutical scales, mortars and pestles, an old cracked leather doctor’s bag and a faded eye chart. There is also a rustic memorial to Seminole Indian Chief Tolomato as well as a wide variety of souvenirs filling the space.

A photo of George L. Potter, the museum’s founder, greets visitors as they enter the museum portion of the building. Fascinated by wax figures he encountered on a visit to London as a child, it was his dream to create this attraction in 1949. Instead of the celebrities that are commonly seen in the grand wax museums today, he set out to preserve the likenesses of great American leaders, statesmen and significant historical figures. Combining waxes from France, hair from Italy and the most skilled artisans, he sought to give the American public what Europeans had at their fingertips. The first figures were produced in Belgium and shipped to the old dispensary on Orange Street where they still reside today.

The historical figures still make up a large part of the museum, however, in addition to American presidents, past and present composers and musicians, artists, innovators, soldiers, kings and queens, there was a smidgen of current celebrities. It was fun to see their likenesses up close, pose for pictures and pretend I was actually standing in their presence.

The Chamber of Horrors in the rear of the museum, not for the faint of heart, housed a collection of those that graced the screens of the most horrifying movies to date…Frankenstein, Freddy Krueger, the Creature From the Black Lagoon, to name a few and in the adjacent room, our favorite Star Wars characters lined up for photo opportunities.

While my visit only lasted about an hour, it was enlightening and the enjoyment I experienced most unexpected. Hoping only to find something to help me pass the time, I actually found a gem. The intimacy of Potter’s museum was a contradiction to what I had experienced in London, Amsterdam and Las Vegas and I can see why it attracts thousands of visitors each year.

George Potter gave us the whole ball of wax and then some!

Finally bidding a farewell to some of Florida’s royalty and founders, I headed out into the late morning to find the fog lifting and the Castillo visible against a backdrop of the waters of Matanzas Bay. No wax figures along the waterfront, but definitely lots of history!

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Potter’s Wax Museum

  • https://www.potterswaxmuseum.com/
  • Address: 31 Orange Street, St. Augustine, Florida 32084
  • Hours: 0900-1700, daily
  • Admission: Adults, $12.13, Children (ages 4-12), $7.07, Children (under 3 years), free

The Churches of St. Augustine

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As I hopped on the St. Augustine’s Old Town Trolley to begin my tour of the city, I was excited for the frequent stops and to see many of the historic churches scattered throughout the city. Many of these churches were not open, however, being able to gaze upon the architecture of these sanctuaries was worth the ride.

Grace United Methodist Church, located on Carrera Street, looked a little familiar…not because I had been there before, but because it had the same appearance as the Ponce de Leon Hotel. Indeed, Henry Flagler built the church in 1887 in the Spanish Renaissance Revival style, using the same builders and architects of the historic hotel. The church was built to replace the wood-constructed Olivet Methodist Church, which stood on the site Flagler wanted for the up-coming Alcazar Hotel and it was donated to the people of the city. It is currently listed on the U.S. National Register of Historic Places.

A little further down the street, I found the Ancient City Baptist Church. Though not as ornate as Grace United, it offered a rather stately appearance on the corner of Carrera and Sevilla Streets. Dating back to 1887, the church was finally built in 1894, when Henry Flagler offered the charter members a parcel of land at no charge but with a few stipulations…the property could not be mortgaged, a bell could not be placed in the tower and the building had to be completed within two years. The Romanesque Revival church was completed after a year’s time and has served the community ever since.

Heading down a block south, I found a magnificent piece of architecture, the Memorial Presbyterian Church. Now, if I found Grace United to be familiar, I most certainly felt some deja vu when I stood in the front of this church. Florida’s first and oldest Presbyterian congregation, Memorial was established in June 1824, completed in 1890 and also designed in the Spanish Renaissance Revival style. What made it so familiar to me, however, was that I have a visited a famous church much like it…in Venice, Italy. Memorial Presbyterian Church was based on the Basilica of St. Mark and also built by the architects of the Ponce de Leon hotel by Henry Flagler. I would have loved to have seen its interior, but due to restrictions, it was not open at the time. I contented myself with a walk around the grounds, admiring each and every angle of this prestigious sanctuary.

As I finally made my way to Plaza de la Constitution, I came upon the petite Trinity Parish Episcopal Church. This church was also not open, but it made for a beautiful photo subject situated on the square on the corner of King and Saint George Streets. The church building was completed in 1831, is the oldest Protestant church in Florida and is known for having some of the oldest and most beautiful stained glass windows in the Episcopal Diocese of Florida.

At long last, I made my way across the plaza to the church that I most wanted to see, the Cathedral Basilica of St. Augustine. Thankfully arriving during its limited opening hours, I was able to inspect both the exterior the interior of Cathedral. Built in the Spanish Mission style (appropriating from St. Augustine’s inception) it is the oldest Catholic Church in the city and the seat of the Bishop of the Diocese of St. Augustine. First established in 1565, the church was built during the years of 1793 to 1797 and designated a U.S. National Historic Landmark. It is the oldest Christian congregation in the contiguous United States.

As I walked throughout the structure, I admired the burnt orange ceiling with its darkened wood trusses. Exquisite murals lined the walls depicting scenes from the history of the Catholic Church in the development of the New World and scenes from the life of Saint Augustine of Hippo. The stained glass windows were exquisite and allowed a filtering of light which highlighted the gold leafed statuary on the main altar and the orange and blue tile floor was extraordinary. One of the most unique cathedrals I have ever set foot in, I felt as though I should be in another country.

Hopping back on the Old Town Trolley, I finally set my sights on some of the other historical structures of the city.

Prayer time was over…

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Grace United Methodist Church

  • https://gracestaugustine.org
  • Address: 8 Carrera St, St. Augustine, Florida 32084-3622
  • Hours: Tours of sanctuary from 1300-1500, most weekday afternoons
  • Admission: Free

Ancient City Baptist Church

Memorial Presbyterian Church

  • https://memorialpcusa.org/
  • Address: 32 Sevilla Street, Saint Augustine, Florida 32084
  • Hours: Visitors are welcome to take a self-guided tour of the church from 1100-1545, Monday through Saturday.
  • Admission: Free

Trinity Episcopal Church

  • https://trinitysta.org
  • Address: 215 St George St, Saint Augustine, Florida 32084, United States
  • Hours: Unknown
  • Admission: Free

Cathedral Basilica of St. Augustine