Art and Architecture Appreciation Day

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Sometimes things go as planned.

Sometimes they don’t.

That’s when you make lemonade out of lemons!

My plan for the day in Milan was to visit the Duomo.  I hadn’t been there in years and was excited to see it and photograph it again.

After taking the metro and arriving in the Piazza del Duomo, I reached into my bag to pull out my camera.  Trying to take a picture of the Duomo, I realized that the shutter wasn’t reacting.  Thinking that I may have broken it somehow, I turned it over and realized that the battery door had come loose and the battery was probably still in my bag back in my hotel room.

Argggghhh!

Okay, I really wanted to take some amazing photographs of the Duomo’s interior, but without my camera, it would have to wait.  Looking up at the bright blue sky, I realized that maybe, it was just a better day to go exploring and save the Duomo for a rainy one.  So…that’s what I did.  Checking some saved locations on my Google maps and the condition of my iPhone battery (since that was going to act as my camera), I set off on my Art and Architecture Appreciation Tour.

Here’s what I found.

The Duomo…of course!  So beautiful and always wonderful to gaze upon.

Beautiful buildings and architectures exist everywhere in Milan.  Turn down random streets.  Look up. Look all around.  You never know what you might find!

The Milan Stock Exchange.  The interesting sculpture in front of the Milan Stock Exchange building placed there since 2015, and designed by Maurizio Cattelan, has caused much controversy but brings in the curiosity seekers.  About four meters high, on a base of eleven meters, the marble sculpture is officially titled L.O.V.E., but reading between the lines, gazers can take away the message that they see for themselves.  All of the fingers have been cut off except the middle one, butchered by the scammers-turned-entrepreneurs who have dominated the Italian Stock market for generations.  This is a big F***You! from the people.

Palazzo Borromeo and Santa Maria Padone.  Palazzo Borromeo was built in the late 14th century when the Florentine Borromeo family moved to Milan.  Remodeled over the centuries and badly damaged during the air raids of 1943, it’s appearance today is not of its original construction.  The square was created in 1440 following the demolition of a number of houses purchased by the Borromeo family to create a space linking the family palace with the 9th century parish church of Santa Maria Padone.  The Romanesque church was transformed into a small basilica and a small family chapel was added in the 15th century.

The Roman Circus.  Did you know that there are some Roman ruins remaining in Milan?  What shocked me most was that there once was a Roman circus right in the middle of the city, occupying an area between Via del Torchio, Via Cappuccio, Corso Magenta, Via Brisa and Via Morigi.  The original structure was 450 meters long by 80 meters wide and probably built by Emperor Maximian in the 4th century A.D.  A few blocks of the foundations of the stands remain (some can be found in the cellars of some houses in Via Cappuccio and Via Morigi) and some parts have been incorporated into newer structures.

Imperial Palace.  Close to the circus, you can find the remains of the Roman Imperial Palace complex.  Many different buildings were used privately and publicly by the Emperor as well as his court officials and the imperial bureaucracy.  As in other Italian cities, the Emperor had direct access from his palace to the circus.

Colonne di San Lorenzo.  The colonnade, located in the front of the Basilica di San Lorenzo, consists of 16 tall Corinthian columns in a row.  The columns were relocated to this area in the 4th century after presumably being removed from a 2nd century pagan temple or bath house.  South of the colonnade is a remaining city gate, the medieval Porta Ticinese (see new Porta Ticinese below).  The area serves as a meeting place as well as a hangout for young people, especially during the evenings.

The Wall of Dolls.  A permanent exhibition, by artist Joe Ring, located on Via de Amicis, near Colonne di San Lorenzo.  At first sight, it seems a bit disconcerting, however, it exerts a strong message…each doll represents women lost or who have succumbed to domestic violence and hate crimes.

Porta di Ticinese.  The modern city gate of Porta Ticinese is located long the Inner Ring Road at Piazza Venti Quattro Maggio, at the southern end of Corso di Porta Ticinese.  Built between 1801 and 1814, along the path of the old 16th century Spanish Walls, it replaced the gate from the Spanish Habsburg era.

So…after all these years of telling everyone that Milan is not my favorite city, “cause there’s nothing to do”…I think I might have to eat my words.

It’s definitely no Rome…there’s not something on every block, but I do have to say that I found some extremely interesting things during my Art and Appreciation Walk.  Milan is a bit like an onion!  Taking the time to peel back the layers, you can definitely find some fascinating things throughout the city.

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 Borsa Italiana (Milan Stock Exchange)

Piazza Borromeo and Santa Maria Padone

Roman Circus

Imperial Palace

  • Address:  Via Brisa, Milano Italy
  • Hours:  Open 24 hours, Street View
  • Admission:  free

Colonne di San Lorenzo

Wall of Dolls

  • Address:  Via de Amicis, 2 20122 Milano, Italy
  • Hours:  Open 24 hours

Porta di Ticinese

 

The Birdmen of the Beach

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Walking along the Malecón, in Puerto Vallarta, there is no shortage of free entertainment.

Bartenders and waitresses, line dance on the sidewalk to entice you to enter.

Renaissance figures mysteriously float over the sidewalk.

Shiny Mexican outlaws decorate the benches.

Statues pour water.

They are all there to entertain you and make a quick peso!

As we strolled along the boardwalk, at the noon hour, I noticed a tall pole in the distance.  There was movement at the top and as we neared, I realized that there were five men perched atop this pole.  Searching my memory, I realized that I had seen this before somewhere else in Mexico.

These were the Mexican pole flyers (or birdmen, as they are sometimes known) who perform Voladores de Papantla, the Ritual of the Voladores.

Persuading my children that we should wait, we found a shady spot under a palm tree and watched the brightly dressed men prepare for their ceremony.

The dance of the flyers is a Mesoamerican ceremony in which five participants climb to the top of a thirty foot pole.  Suspended by ropes wound around the top of the pole, four of the flyers, representing the four directions and the elements of air, water, earth and fire, fall backward off of the pole and then fly through the air upside down, sometimes in elegant birdlike poses, as they are rotated thirteen times and lowered to the ground.  The fifth dancer, playing a drum and a flute, remains at the top.

According to legend, this ceremony was created to ask the gods to stop droughts in ancient times, but is now a recognized historical and cultural dance that is kept alive by communities to honor the historical traditions and rituals of ancient cultures. Voladores de Papantla ceremony was named an Intangible Cultural Heritage by UNESCO in 2009, in order to help the ritual survive and thrive in the modern world and may be seen in various areas throughout the country.

A school for flyer children was established in Takilhsukut Park on Tecolutla, Mexico, where formal instruction is given on ceremony.  Flyers must spend ten to twelve years in preparation before participation in an event and women are prohibited from performing.   Sometimes a dangerous event, there are many deaths each year due to poorly knotted ropes and other types of improper preparations.

We were all mesmerized as we watched the colorful flyers wind their way down to the beach below, wondering aloud how they were able to stand after the continuous spinning!

The large crowd that had gathered, rightly erupted into applause for the performers at the end of their performance.  Truly an unforgettable experience!

Needless to say…the hat that was passed, gathered many a peso!

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Los Voladores

  • The pole is on the beach adjacent to the Malecón, directly opposite Senor Frogs nightclub & the flyers perform throughout the day.
  • Tip generously!!!

 

Shut Up and Fish!

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

When you head to one of the greatest deep sea fishing locations in the Pacific…well…

you FISH!

While in Puerto Vallarta, my husband decided that we absolutely needed to book a fishing trip.  Checking around on the internet, we had yet to make a decision on a charter and were lying around on the beach, when we were approached by a gentleman offering to take us out on his boat.

After speaking with him a bit about the expedition, he seemed sincere and we decided to book the trip with him.  Paying him a $100 deposit, we arranged to meet him the next morning at the nearby marina.  A little later, however, I must admit, that the idea that he may have just collected money from us and would not actually show entered my mind!  Probably not the savviest decision on my part!

A quick cab ride the next morning, while the sun was rising, deposited us at the marina and thankfully, Hector was there…loading up his boat and waiting for us!

Boarding Hector’s thirty-six foot cabin cruiser, The Miramar, we made ourselves comfortable and were soon motoring out of the harbor into the open water.

As the sun ascended, the calm blue water spread before us like an open road.  Half asleep, we suddenly heard the captain shout.  Opening our eyes and following his gaze, we spotted spray shooting up from the ocean’s surface.  A Bryde’s whale was breaking the surface and we spied it’s slender, bluish-grey body make its way through the water.  It surfaced and dove a few times before we were unable to locate it any longer.  Such excitement!  Not to be outdone, a pod of bottle nose dolphin decided that it would be fun to follow the boat.  More fun for us as we watched them from the confines of our craft.

Excitement aside, Hector began placing the fishing rods in their holders at the rear of the boat…five in all…trailing the lures in the dark blue water behind us.

It didn’t take long…the bonitas were biting!  A strong, fighting fish, we all took turns struggling to pull them in one by one, even though they were not the largest fish we had ever caught.  A few Spanish mackerel even took the bait!  Pretty soon, the sun was high, the air was warm and our live well was teeming with a multitude of fish.

After three full hours of fishing, it was finally time to turn and make the return hour-long journey.  One of the best parts of the day, however, was yet to come.  Unable to take our catch home with us, Hector had brought the necessities to make cerviche.  We marveled as he made quick work of cleaning our haul throwing the entrails out into the water…the seagulls swooping in for a free meal.

We watched, mouths watering, as he chopped red onions, white onions, jalapeno, tomatoes, cucumbers and limes.  Letting the concoction marinate for a bit, it was soon time to taste the fruit of Hector’s labor…

Muy delicioso!  Hector’s cerviche was spicy and probably the best I had ever tasted!  SO good that I had to steal his recipe (which I fixed when I got home with some fresh fish we caught in our lake)!

Enjoying our light lunch, we sailed back into the marina.  Our fishing adventure had come to an end!  Thanking (and tipping) Hector and his captain, we gathered our belongings and disembarked The Miramar, hopping onto a local bus for the short journey back to our hotel.

Though we did not venture out for an entire day’s trip, nor did we catch any larger game fish, the journey out on the Bay of Banderas was a fun and exciting one!

Things to keep in mind…

A valid Mexican Sport Fishing License is required before fishing in Mexican waters.  Fishing license are usually included in the booking price (as ours was) or can be purchased from the charter operator.

One rod per person in the water at all times.

It is prohibited to sell the catch.

You need to be at least 250 meters away from swimmers in order to practice sporfishing.

For smaller fish, expect to book a four or five hour charter and remain in the Bay of Banderas.  For larger, sport fish, expect to book a full day’s charter and a lot more time in the boat making your way out to the fishing grounds.

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

 

Puerto Vallarta Fishing Charters

 

The Crown of Puerto Vallarta

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

In many Mexican cities, you will find in the heart of that city…a square dominated by a church.

Puerto Vallarta is no different, though the Church of Our Lady of Guadalupe sits on a smaller square, nestled away between many buildings.  Called “one of the most endearing” of the city’s landmarks, it’s wrought-iron crown can be spied almost anywhere throughout the city and one that I absolutely wanted to visit during my visit to this coastal Mexican city.

In 1903, there was a small chapel located in the current location, dedicated to the Virgin Guadalupe, however, foundations were beginning to be laid for the current church.  With the arrival of Father Francisco Ayala in 1915, it was suggested that the foundations be expanded for a larger temple than had been planned.

Walls and pillars were finished by 1917, however construction began in earnest in the early 1920’s.  Though construction was halted temporarily in 1926, due to the Cristero War, it was resumed in 1930 with the addition of the dome.  The entire building was completed in 1940 with the exception of the two towers.  The chancel and organ were installed in 1951 and the main tower, topped with the wrought-iron crown, finally in 1952.

Although it has been speculated that the crown was designed to resemble one worn by Empress Carlota of Mexico, this has been found to be untrue.  To “crown” the Parish, the current crown was placed on the main tower in 1965 and was designed by José Esteban Ramírez Guareño.

When walking through the city, you can see how beloved this landmark is as it is depicted in photos, shirts, logos and postcards.  Many congregate near and in front of the church and you can hear the church bells rung by the sextants 30 and 15 minutes prior to each service.  If you are lucky enough to be in Puerto Vallarta during Our Lady of Guadalupe Festival (Feast of Guadalupe, December 1 through December 12), you will notice that the bell ringing and and festivities reach a frenzied level.  Processions advance through the streets, including dancing warriors, banners, music, singing and colorful floats depicting scenes of the Virgin and Juan Diego, the Indian peasant that she appeared to in 1531.  Thousands of visitors descend upon the city and the streets are lined with vendors selling food, sweets, souvenirs, toys and more.

Take the time to admire the church from the square and other vantage points, however, be sure to take a moment to attend mass or just take a look around between services.  The architecture is a mix of various styles…neoclassical, renaissance, baroque.  The interior design is a tribute to the original Basilica of Our Lady of Guadalupe in Mexico City.  Particular attention should be paid the to the idolized image of Our Lady of Guadalupe and a 1945 oil replica by Guadalajaran artist Ignacio Ramirez.  Beautiful religious images are painted on wood throughout the structure, carved wooden confessionals stand proud and waiting and the elaborate marble altar are the main focus of the church.

There is much love and devotion in the Church of Our Lady of Guadalupe.  When visiting Puerto Vallarta, be sure to make it a priority!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Our Lady of Guadalupe

  • http://parroquiadeguadalupevallarta.com/
  • Address:  Calle Hidalgo 370, Centro, 48300 Puerto Vallarta, Jal., Mexico
  • Mass Schedule:  Monday-Friday, 0730, 1200, 1900.  Saturday, 0730, 1200, 1700, 1800, 1930, 2030.  Sunday, 0630, 0800, 1000, 1200, 1830, 1930, 2030

Unplanned Puerto Vallarta

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Twenty-four years ago, fresh off a visit to a Sandals resort, my husband and I were lured by the call of the all-inclusive resorts of Puerto Vallarta. Looking to enjoy another comprehensive vacation, we set off from our home to Los Angeles and then on to Puerto Vallarta.

A lengthy cab ride deposited us at our resort and we quickly changed into our swimsuits, eager to enjoy the amenities.

“Oh, you would like to book the dive trip for tomorrow, senora?  We are sorry, the boat is broken.”

“Oh, you would like to go to the disco tonight, senor?  We are sorry, the disco is being renovated and is closed…indefinitely.”

And the list went on.  Nothing worked.  Nothing was nice.  And the food?  Don’t get me started.  This was definitely not anything that could compare to Sandals.

A phone call was made to our booking agency that afternoon and we were promised a refund after we informed them that we were leaving the next day.

Three months and the threat of a lawsuit finally got our money back.  So, whenever someone mentioned going to Puerto Vallarta…it kind of turned my stomach.  Nothing against the city itself.  That dreadful resort had just ruined it for me.  I had the mentality of “been there, did that” and I never really wanted to go back.

Trying to figure out plans for spring break is always tricky for airline employees as we fly on a stand-by basis and my son has limited time-off due to his baseball schedule. I watch flights for days-on-end, trying to decipher which will end up with seats both to and from tropical destinations.  And, though we prefer a tropical destinations, I only told my boys that I would get them somewhere…even if it wasn’t their top choice.

Mother nature, however, had another plan.  No one would could have prepared for the weather problems encountered that week, causing massive disruptions to flight schedules.  Knowing that we would never get out of our hometown to one of my airlines’ hubs, we jumped in a rental car and made the eight hour drive to Atlanta, where I knew there were many flight originations and many customer’s flights that would not make it the next day due to the continuing cancellations.

 My hunch was correct.  As I watched three destinations the next morning, all with multiple flights and all with availability at hotels that we had earmarked, seats on those flights slowly began to open up.  Quickly, we had to make a decision.  We would try one of the earliest, leaving us with other options later in the day.  My vote was for Punta Cana, but my boys wanted to try…Puerto Vallarta.

Waiting to reserve the hotel, my husband hit the “Book” button only when we had been given our seat assignments and the door to the aircraft was closed.  Whew!  We had made it onto a flight!  But…what was it going to be like?

Four hours later, I was admiring the blue water and surrounding lush mountainsides as we were touching down at Licenciado Gustavo Díaz Ordaz International Airport.

A swift cab ride from the airport had us arriving at the Hilton’s Puerto Vallarta All-Inclusive Resort, not long after our arrival and we were lounging on the beach, cocktails in hand, by two-thirty.  Sunny skies and blue water!  What more could you ask for?

Needless to say, we absolutely LOVED this resort…everything worked, our room was upgraded, the service was amazing and the food and drinks, divine!

Happy to have a resort that met our expectations, there was one other thing…I wanted to see this place that I never really got to see.

The next morning, I decided that I would head into town.  Gathering advice and instruction from the concierge, I hailed a cab with my boys and headed to the center of Puerto Vallarta and its Malecón, the twelve-block boardwalk along the waterfront.

The Malecón was renovated in 2011, making it more pedestrian friendly.  The waterfront area is filled with beautiful sculpture, restaurants, bars, museums, free shows, duty-free shopping and souvenir shops.  As we made our way south, we took lots of pictures, shopped, made friends and visited Our Lady of Guadaloupe cathedral, the city’s endearing landmark with its wrought-iron crown tower.

The area felt extremely safe and was exceptionally clean.  The local people were very friendly and helpful…just beware, they might spot your wristband and tell you that they met you the night before at your resort, just to lure you in.  I was stupid enough to fall for that one!

Though we only spent about three hours enjoying this area, we agreed to come back and bring my husband so that he could also see what he had missed.

Counting out twenty-one pesos, we decided to take the city bus back to the hotel.  I love traveling the way locals do…my children…not so much.  Still, it was a cheap way to travel and was surprising easy.

There was more fun to experience later in Puerto Vallerta, but this was a great beginning!  So happy that we gave it another chance!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Puerto Vallarta

  • http://visitpuertovallarta.com/
  • http://www3.hilton.com/en/hotels/jalisco/hilton-puerto-vallarta-resort-PVRPVHF/index.html
  • Getting There/Airport-Hotel:  Cabs are regulated and can be arranged prior to exiting the airport.  Approximate taxi fare to our hotel, in a van for four people, was approximately $30.  Return fare from hotel, was $10.
  • Getting There/Malecón:  From the Hilton (near marina) a cab cost about $5.00 US.  The cabdriver will give you an amount in pesos and will also give an amount in US dollars.  The bus is about 7 pesos (about $.40 US) and though a bit of a rough ride, very safe and easy to ride.

Dublin’s Donjon

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

If you were a fan of the Tudors, chances are that you saw the Dublin castle in the pilot…only it wasn’t portrayed as the Dublin Castle…it appears as the Vatican!

A long way from the Pope’s Italian abode, the Dublin Castle, originally built in the 13th century, on a site previously settled by Vikings, has served many functions…military fortress, prison, treasury, courts of law and the seat of English Administration in Ireland for 700 years.

In 1938, it was decided that the inauguration of the first President of Ireland, Douglas Hyde would take place in the castle.  Since this time, the complex has hosted this ceremony ever since as well as official State visits, State dinners, informal foreign affairs engagements, state banquets and  government policy launches.  The castle also acts as the central base for Ireland’s hosting of the European Presidency approximately every ten years.

The Castle, a major tourist attraction, draws thousands of tourists through its doors every year.  On this day, I would be one of them.

Disembarking from the city bus, I walked to the castle’s location on Dame Street and through the arched entrance to the complex.  First, entranced by the Royal Chapel, I walked around the building in order to see the complexities and beauty of the architecture, then entered the courtyard of the castle and ticket office.

Paying my entrance fee, I opted for the self-guided tour, which includes access to the State Apartments and exhibits, as I was limited on time and could not wait for a guided tour to begin.

Walking up the beautifully carpeted stairway I began my exploration of the State Apartments including the State Drawing Room, the State Dining Room, the Portrait Gallery, the Apollo Room, the Wedgewood Room, the Gothic Room, State Bedrooms and State Corridor and St. Patrick’s Hall, each decorated in the fashion that one would expect of a castle…lots of velour and gilt!

The first room I encountered was St. Patrick’s Hall, the awe-inspiring ceremonial room.  Originally developed as the castle’s ballroom, the hall served for many years as the meeting place of the Knights of St. Patrick, Ireland’s chivalric order of knights whose flags still grace the walls and then becoming the official site of the presidential inaugurations.  Glancing upward, the ceiling is the most note-worthy aspect of this great room with its painting by Italian artist Vincenzo Waldre.  As you wander throughout the room, you can almost feel the presence of the famous dignitaries that have graced this room, including John F. Kennedy, Princess Grace of Monaco and Queen Elizabeth II.

Next, on my tour, was the Gothic Room, the circular space created as a supper room, in 1775, while the medieval Bermingham Tower was being reconstructed.  Being located directly above the State kitchen made it a convenient location for private dinners and a place to serve refreshments during balls.  On display in the room is a collection of sixteenth-century religious and mythological paintings on loan from the Schorr Collection.

Walking from the Gothic Room, into the Wedgewood Room, you notice the stark contrast of the gothic style transitioning to the neoclassical.  This blue and white room (with its color scheme taken from Wedgewood china) was  the castle’s billiard room and remarkably, once a place for a small indoor garden filled with exotic birds, trees and water fountains in the nineteenth century.

My next destination was the State Portrait Gallery and the State Dining Room.  The room, filled with a collection of portraits of Irish Viceroys gracing the walls since 1849, has acted as the area where State dinners were held and continue to be held today.   The dining table is set with Waterford crystal and the Irish State dinner service, featuring the national emblem, the gold harp, so that tourists can get an idea of what a dignitaries might enjoy.

The Throne Room, the focal point of royal ceremonies in Ireland, was the next destination.  Created in 1788, as an audience chamber for the Viceroy to receive guests on behalf of the British monarch, it was also the site where young debutantes were presented at court to mark their formal entry into aristocratic society.  The rather plain throne was made for King George IV’s visit to Ireland in 1821 and was later used by Queen Victoria and King Edward VII during their visits to the Castle.  Overshadowing the throne are the six mythological paintings by Italian artist Gaetano Gandolfi (1767), over the doorways in the room.

The Drawing Room was built in the 1830s as the principle reception room of the Lord Lieutenant and his household.  Though destroyed by fire in 1941, the room was reconstructed from 1964 to 1968 and is now exclusively used for receptions of foreign dignitaries.

The Apollo room was my next stop and a swift glance upward will enlighten you as the origins of its name…the Greek god of the arts and music, Apollo, is in the center of the ceiling.  Rescued from a nearby Georgian townhouse in 1912, the ceiling unbelievably arrived at the castle in eleven separate pieces!  Looking at the seamless artistry, you would never guess!

The last part of the tour was my favorite.  Entering the State Corridor is like entering a mirror maze.  A parading procession of vaults and arches lined up before me, beautifully lit from above.  Though rather simplistic, I could only imagine the time when the corridor was originally lit by skylights.

As I exited the building, and stepped into the courtyard, I couldn’t help but feel a little disappointed that the Royal Chapel was not included in the self-guided tour.  Spying a group headed that way, I watched as another individual tried to slip into the building behind them, unnoticed,  but was turned away.

The Royal Chapel…it will wait until another day.  In the meantime, maybe I will watch some of the other television shows and movies that have been filmed here…Ripper Street, Penny Dreadful, Michael Collins and Becoming Jane. Maybe I’ll get to see the Royal Chapel, after all.

Check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe for more pictures.

 

Dublin Castle

  • http://dublincastle.ie
  • Address:  Dame Street, Dublin 2, Ireland
  • Hours:  Monday – Sunday & Bank Holidays, 0945 – 1745 (last admission 1715)  Closed: 25th, 26th & 27th December, and 1st January
  • Admission:  Adult €10.00, Senior (60+) €8.00, Child (6-17) €4.00, Family (max. 2 adults & 5 children) €24.00
  • Guided Tours:   Guided Tours take approximately 70 minutes and include the State Apartments, the Viking Excavation and the Chapel Royal
  • Visitors can choose to self-guide (access to State Apartments and exhibitions only). Brochures are offered on the State Apartments in seventeen languages at the ticket desk as well as additional information resources.
  • Getting There:  Buses: 13, 27, 40, 49, 54A, 56A, 77A, 123, 150 and 747 Airlink. All bus stops are situated on Dame Street or Lord Edward Street

 

The Colonial Church

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

When visiting Peru, there are no shortages of churches in the predominately Catholic country.  Some are extremely ornate, others merely plain and simply a place for the devout to bow their heads and pray.

While visiting the Miraflores area of Lima, you can’t help but spot the church of the Virgen of Milagrosa standing proudly in the Central Park of Miraflores, adjacent to Parque Kennedy, especially at night, when lit beautifully.

Built in the last century by architect Ricardo de Jaxa Malachowski, it stands on the site of an older church, San Miguel de Miraflores.  Though the beauty of its grand colonial exterior clearly outshines the interior, the interesting stained glass detailing the scenes of life and miracles of Jesus and the image of the Miraculous Virgin, from which its name is derived, on the altar are worth stopping in to pay a visit.

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Iglesia Virgen Milagrosa

  • Address:  Lima 345, Distrito de Lima Lima 18, Peru
  • Admission:  free
  • Mass Schedule:  Monday thru Friday, 0900, 1900, Saturday, 1200, 1800, 1900 and Sunday, 0700, 0930 (mass for parents and children), 1100, 1200, 1800, 1900 and 2000.  Confession, Monday thru Friday, 1900 and after Sunday masses.

A Peruvian Pyramid

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Lima, Peru is an animated city filled with compelling history, amicable people, considerable bargains and mouthwatering cuisine.  So vast are the options in this city, its hard to fathom how to narrow down the list to fill your day!

Just recently, I was returning to Lima for my second visit.  Arriving late in the evening, I made time to enjoy a Pisco Sour, the Peruvian cocktail that the country is known for, before retiring for a quick night’s rest.

No sooner than I had shut my eyes, my alarm was going off, reminding me that it was time to hit the breakfast buffet and the busy streets.  Having some shopping to complete and a pedicure to enjoy, was first and foremost on my mind, but there was something else I wanted to seek out.

A pyramid.

Both times that I have planned for my visits to Lima, I have done internet searches for things to do in the vibrant city.   The usual items have always popped up… Plaza Mayor, the Larco Museum, San Francisco Monastery and Catacombs, Parque Kennedy.  This time, however, I found something different…two pyramids…Huaca Pucllana and Huaca Huallamarca. Not only were these pyramids located in the city, but one was in the area of Miraflores, my base of operations during my stay and the other quite near.

After my shopping was complete, I secured a map from the concierge as well as some helpful directions.  Since Huaca Pucllana was closer to my hotel, I decided to seek it out on this trip.  Heading up Avenida Arequipa and enjoying the colorful and distinct architecture as I walked, I quickly found my turning point, Calle Tarapacá.  A short walk and a right turn, the ticket window was there before me.

It was explained, as I purchased my ticket, that the next English tour would be leaving in thirty minutes.  Gladly, I took the time to take pictures, re-hydrate and relax my feet from the brisk walk I had just endured.

As the tour guide assembled our group at the entrance, we all stared up at the great adobe and clay monolith to our left.  A massive structure, it is truly amazing that it has not succumbed to the development of the city which surrounds it on all sides.

One of the most important ancient monuments in Lima, Huaca Pucllana,  currently an historical and cultural park, was found to have served as a ceremonial and administrative center.  It was ruled by a group of priests that politically governed the area as well as the valleys of Chancay, Chillón, Rimac and Lurín and was constructed around 500 A.D.

Guided around the plaza that surrounds the pyramid, we were briefed on the history of the pyramid and the Lima people who resided in this area and gazed upon the displays designed to give tourists a representation of life when the pyramid was built.  Separated by a large structured wall dividing it into two separate sections, one side was an area of offering and for religious ceremonies and another served as an administrative area.

As you make your way through the outer part of the complex, you will notice the intricacies of the adobe brick walls that are still in amazing shape and give you an idea of how the complex was divided.  When the project was begun in 1981, the entire pyramid and surrounded area was covered with dirt.  Excavation of the site has exposed about two thirds of the slopes and the upper part of the main building.  Many clay structures and adobe huts still remain as well as a preserved footprint of one of the inhabitants.

At the rear of the complex, an area has been set aside which offers a representation of the crops that the Lima people grew at the time as well as the animals that were kept.

Facing the front of the main pyramid is impressive…here, you can see the actual pyramidic shape which was built from seven staggered platforms.  Walking to the right, our guide led us to a ramp leading up to the top of the pyramid.  A birds eye view of the entire Huaca Pucllana complex is presented before you, but if you are searching for impressive views of the city surrounding it, you will be sorely disappointed.  Still, it is quite profound to be standing atop an ancient pyramid in Peru.

Our guide enlightened us with much information detailing the changes that Huaca Pucllana endured around the year 700.  By the year, 800, the highest parts of the site became an elite cemetery of the Wari culture.  Many tombs and burial bundles have been unearthed on this apogee, the most recent being in 2010, when the remains of an affluent woman were discovered along with four children, who were believed to be sacrificed to accompany her to the after-world.  Open tombs can be inspected which contain various elements such as clothing, household items and ritual objects.

Finally, we made our way down the pyramid and back to our entry point, which was also our exit.

If you find yourself in Miraflores, make time to head to Huaca Pucllana, take a tour, wander through the adjacent museum and have a bit to eat at the restaurant which overlooks the ruins.  The tour lasts approximately an hour and is an informative journey through an important time in Lima’s history.  Be sure to bring water if you will be visiting during the hottest parts of the day and when you need to tend to your dusty feet after your visit, grab a pedicure at one of the many salons in Miraflores…that’s just what I did!

Huaca Pucllana Restaurant

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Huaca Pucllana

  • http://huacapucllanamiraflores.pe/
  • Address:  Calle General Borgoño cuadra 8 S/n, Distrito de Lima, Peru
  • Hours:  Wednesday to Monday, 0900-1700, closed Tuesday.  Closed January 1st, Good Friday, May 1st, July 28th, December 25th and National Election days.
  • Admission:  Adults, 12.00 PEN (about $3.68 US), Reduced ticket (children up to 12 years of age, students of higher learning, teachers), 6.00 PEN (about $1.84 US), Schoolchildren, 1.00 PEN (about $.31 US).
  • Guides:  All tours are guided
  • Night Service:  Wednesday-Monday, 1900-2200.  Adults, 15.00 PEN (about $4.60 US), Reduced ticket, 7.50 (about $2.30 US).  For safety reasons, the night tour does not include a visit to the top of the Great Pyramid.

Shop Til You Drop

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Finding amazing deals in Lima is an easy thing to do.  From beautiful handicrafts to jewelry to clothing, there are plenty of stores and markets throughout the city to satisfy your shopping appetite.

The first time I went to Lima, I wasn’t sure what to expect.  Tales circulated around my friends about their shopping expeditions and the things that they were used to bringing home.  Knowing that many counterfeit items are sold, I wanted to stay away from these so that I would not experience any trouble when re-entering the United States.

Walking behind some passengers to the airplane, I was listening in on their conversation.  Our was relating a story about being there the week before and at a store that had piles of a particular kind of expensive type of clothing that my boys like to wear for ridiculously low prices.  Securing directions from him, I decided I had to check this out!

Walking up and down Avenue Jose Larco, I must have passed the store many times.  Finally, after asking for directions in my broken Spanish, I finally realized exactly where the store was located.

Entering the store, I looked around and realized that with the piles of clothing everywhere, there was no way I was going to find what I was looking for.  I suddenly understood why the passengers kept referring to this store as “The Dig”.

Whipping out my cellphone, I scrolled through my pictures and found some of the type of clothing I was looking for.  Smiling, the lady took me over to a table with shirts stacked very neatly by size and style.  Pulling as many different styles and sizes that I could, I walked away with a nice assortment (nineteen to be exact!) of t-shirts and polo-type shirts for both my boys and husband.  Getting them back to my hotel room and into the suitcase was another feat but seeing how excited they were when I showed them my haul, it was worth the effort!

Just recently, I went back to Lima with the intention of re-visiting La Quinta.  Hoping that the store still carried the same brand, I made sure that I had my credit card handy and held my breath as I entered.

At the same table, there were more styles and sizes than during my previous visit, though still neatly folded and separated by size and style.  Sorting through each pile, the salesgirl, put them aside for me until I was finished with the t-shirts.  Asking about the polo-type shirts, I was disheartened to find that the ones she had available were not quite what I was looking for, but instantly brightened when she showed me the three-quarter zip pullovers…a little more pricey, but worth the heavily discounted price.

These shirts are made for an American company in Peru and are irregular items that do not make the cut for excellent production standards.  Checking each piece for marks, cuts and overall quality, I finally had her write my ticket so that I could go to the cashier’s stand to pay for the purchases.   I all-but-dragged my bulging bag back to my hotel four blocks away!

Once in my room, I re-inspected each piece and discovered that I had two incorrect sizes.  Back to the store I went, and exchanged the pieces for the correct sizes.  Deciding to look around a bit more, I discovered another table selling another popular brand of t-shirts and with much excitement I discovered that, at the rear of the store, there was another seller with the polo-type shirts that I had been looking for earlier.

Paying for my purchases, I took my receipts to each of the sellers, collected my bags and once again made the trip back to my hotel to begin loading my suitcase.

Getting so many shirts into a suitcase already half full of my own clothes was certainly a challenge and I had to expand it to its largest size as well as borrow space in my tote and also unfold and use my Longchamps purse.

Having to check my suitcase for my flight back to Richmond and add extra time to my travels claiming my bag upon arrival was a bit of pain, especially after being up all night, but seeing the look of excitement on my family’s faces was priceless!

A whole new wardrobe for a fraction of the price..heck..I might have to go back each season!

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La Quinta

  • Address:  Av. Larco , Miraflores – Lima – Perú
  • Getting There:  Walk north on Av. Jose Larco from Calle Schell.  Pass the next street Av. Ernesto Diez Canseco and La Quinta is on your left.  Directly across the street from Parque Kennedy and the Parroquia Virgen Milagrosa.

The Land of Plenty

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

What’s on your bucket list?

My list is quite extensive and encompasses many countries.  Some items on my checklist include:

exploring the Galapagos Islands

driving a husky sled

bungee jumping

watching the sunset from Santorini

gazing upward at the northern lights

I had hoped to check off the northern lights on my recent trip to Reykjavik, but the conditions weren’t optimum and my tour was cancelled during the afternoon.  Another item was meant to be, however…glacier hiking.

Glaciers and ice caps cover over 11% of the land area of Iceland and contribute to the economy with tourists flocking to see the glaciers on snowmobiles and glacier hiking tours.   Never having had the time to make it to this part of Iceland, I was eager to rise early and join a tour to fulfill one of my dreams.

Soon on our way, after an early departure, rain threatened our journey on and off until we arrived at our first stop, Skogafoss Waterfall.  Though there wasn’t sufficient time to climb the long winding stairway to admire the largest waterfall in the country from the top (82 feet and a 200 foot drop), I was able to photograph the cascading waters very near its base, only getting slightly wet from the massive amounts of spray that the waterfall produces.  As the rain temporarily cleared and the sun peeked out around the clouds, a beautiful rainbow was visible near the base of the waterfall.

Local legend states that the first Viking settlers buried a treasure behind the waterfall.  Locals supposedly found the chest years later, but lost it immediately, leaving it lurking in the water’s depths for some lucky individual to find.  Skogafoss has gained notoriety in recent years as a location for the filming of the movies, Thor:  The Dark World and The Secret Life of Walter Mitty.

Reboarding our all-terrain vehicle once again, we were soon arriving at our next destination, the village of Vík í Mýrdal and the Reynisfjara black sand beach, considered one of the most beautiful beaches on earth.

Signs line the pathway to the beach warning of danger from the rogue waves that roll in with full force from the Atlantic, but when you arrive at the beach, there is no shortage of people daring the tide…laying on the beach, trying to get their best photgraphic shots of the rolling waves and getting as close to these monsters as possible.  Spying a few soaked tourists, I stayed as far away as possible.

Looking out to the water, the Reynisdrangar basalt spires that lurk just offshore provide amazing photo opportunities.  Legend has it that these spires are actually trolls frozen in place while attempting to drag three ships out of the sea under the cover of night.  As the morning dawn surprised them, they were turned to stone.

Many caves also line the beach area and the rocky areas along the beachfront display interesting hexagonal forms which were formed from the contraction of flowing and cooling lava.  The formations here appear as a sort of staircase and all visitors seem to try their hand climbing as high as they can for photo-ops and selfies.  I even tried it…it is not as easy as it looks!

The adjacent, small village of Vík í Mýrdal, with 450 inhabitants, lies directly under the Myrdalsjokull glacier, which sits atop the volcano Katla.  Speculation is that since there has not been an eruption since 1918, another may be brewing causing glacier melt and flash flooding which could decimate the village.  Regular drills are held in the village directing residents to the local church which sits atop a hill hopefully protecting it from the floodwaters.  If you are driving the ring road around the island, it is important to keep this village in mind as it is the only service center between Skógar and the west edge of the Mýrdalssandur glacial outwash.

Leaving Vík í Mýrdal, we were finally on our way to Sólheimajökull glacier, driving past beautiful countryside views.   Donning my ski pants, hat and gloves while enroute, I readied myself for what we would encounter.

Upon our arrival, we were greeted by our glacier guides and outfitted with crampons, helmets, harnesses and ice axes.  I was also fitted for my hiking boots that were reserved with my booking.

Soon, we were making our way up the trail, heading toward the glacier.  Carrying our crampons on our axes, we walked along the edge of the glacial lake to our staging area.  A beautiful rainbow stretched like a bridge across the lake and we could not wait to make the climb up to the glacier.  After a quick lesson in strapping on our crampons, we were ready.

A staircase and trail had been cut into side of the glacier and although I am regularly active at the gym, walking in heavy hiking boots and crampons took a little getting used to.  Panting for breath, I was happy when we reached the top of the glacier.   Walking in single file behind our guide, the beauty around us was indescribable.   The glacier (8 kilometers long and 1-2 kilometers wide) spread out in front of us with lots of blue ice, crevasses, sink holes, ice ridges and even another rainbow!  After a long walk and lots of photo opportunities, however, it was time to head down…a much easier journey than the trip up.

Although I was a participant in this awesome experience, it was a bit sad to watch the rivers of water run down the glacier into the lake below, highlighting the glacier melt taking place every day.   The glacier, sensitive to climate change is also being affected by the large numbers of tourists every day.  From 1930 to 1969, this glacier retreated 977 meters but then the weather cooled and the glacier advanced 495 feet and thickened by 100 meters.  The glacier then retreated again and in 2010, it was almost one kilometer further up the valley than in 1930 and was 120 to 140 meters thinner than in 1960.  According to our guide, if the warming trend continues, the glacier may potentially disappear in 100 to 200 years.

Happy to have a break (and a snack) on the bus, we were soon headed to our final destination, Seljalandsfoss waterfall.  Due to our later than anticipated arrival, the first thing I noticed as we pulled into the parking lot, were park officials closing off the trail.  Sadly, the trail that make this waterfall famous, as it makes its way behind the cascading waters, was closed off.  Jumping the rope, I did make it as far as the top of the stairway to the viewing platform and got some amazing shots of the waterfall.

Finally, heading back to Reykjavik, tired and exhausted, it was time to pull out my phone and place another check on my Bucket List.  One of the most interesting places in the world, I enjoyed nature’s beauty but learned how much more there is to see.  Slowly I typed in another item on my list.  Rent a car, drive Iceland’s Ring Road.

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Grayline Tours Southcoast, Waterfalls and Glacier Hike