In the Plaza Independencia, you can spend a good part of your day see only what is there, including devouring a scrumptious lunch going to mass and making new friends!
Quito’s Cathedral stands on the southern side of the plaza and is a one of the most important churches in the city. Dating back to 1535, when the Spanish founded Quito, it was given the name of Metropolitan Cathedral, until twenty-five years ago, when it was name the Primada Cathedral for the evangelizing work that the church had done over the years.
Construction of the cathedral began between 1550 and 1560 with many renovations over the years, until its completion in 1806. As we walked through the building, the many architectural styles that make up the interior should be a great contrast, however, the styles blend together remarkably…the arches are of the Gothic design, while the altar is very Baroque…the choir area is Neoclassic and the ceilings Moorish.
There are many main attractions in the church that are not to be missed that include the High Altar, gilded and backed by a monumental dome and fronted by a beautiful carved, wooden altarpiece, stunning stained glass windows, stone plates of the first settlers, its Moorish-styled coiffured ceiling, three domes (one carved in the shape of a convex quadrangle, the second, oval-shaped and the third, circular), a carved and gilded wooden pulpit (topped with a sculpture of St. Peter), ornate side chapels and the spacious high choir which houses a German organ.
Many prominent citizens have been interred here, including Mariscal Sucre (liberator Simon Bolivar’s right-hand man), Antoinio Jose de Sucre, Cardinal de la Torre, priests, bishops and many of the Republic’s presidents.
Most importantly, the cathedral houses the most notable relic in all of Quito, that of the Christian martyr, Saint Urcisino. Given as a gift from Pope Pius IX to President Garcia Moreno, it was has resided here since 1871.
The cathedral also contains a museum with many types of art, both ecclesiastical and colonial and an imitation of the Last Supper painting cannot be missed…instead of the usual dinner fare, Jesus and the apostles dine on cuy, the traditional South American dish…yes, it’s guinea pig.
It was revealed to me some time after our visit that visitors can climb through a very narrow and dark staircase and passages and emerge on the roof for a great view of the city and the square beneath, as well as climb to the domes. I guess since it was the end of our day, we missed this!
Though I was sad about not having known about the climb to the top, I had the privilege of looking down on the city from many vantage points during my visit…from the top of the Teleferico, from Panecillo Hill and from the top of the Basilica. Instead of being regretful of what we did not get to do, I will focus on the many beautiful things we witnessed inside this amazing cathedral!
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Admission: National Tourists, Adults, $2.00, Children, Students, Seniors, People with Disabilities, $1.00. Visit to Domes (Church+Museum+Domes) $4.00. Foreign Tourists, Adults, $3.00, Children, Students, Seniors, People with Disabilities, $2.00. Visit to Domes (Church+Museum+Domes) $6.00.
We spotted it from high above the city at the top of the Teleferico…and from Panecillo Hill. Heck, we could even see it from our hotel room!
There is one stunning structure that dominates Quito’s Old Town skyline.
The Basilica of the National Vow.
In 1883, the idea to build a church that demonstrated Ecuador’s devotion to the Roman Catholic church and the Sacred Heart was recognized by Father Julio Matovelle. Though funds were set aside by the Ecuadorian Congress the following year, hoping to put Ecuador on the map with such a prestigious building, it was not enough.
Seeking to gain the assistance of the whole nation, donations were accepted in the form of stone blocks with the vow that upon the church’s completion, the names of the donors would be carved into them. To ensure the remaining funds were in place, a tax on salt was then instituted and collected.
After over a hundred years of construction and despite a blessing by Pope John Paul II in 1985 and its inauguration in 1988, the basilica is not considered technically complete. In fact, local legend says that when the Basilica is finally completed, it will be the end of the world.
Located in the Santa Prisca neighborhood of Quito’s historic Old Town, this basilica which is often compared to Paris’ Notre Dame. It is the largest in the Americas and in Quito, which made navigating the streets seeking its destination quite easy as it towers above everything nearby, perched upon a hill.
Indeed, as I gazed upon this neo-Gothic architectural marvel, it did remind me of Notre Dame, however, as I approached, gazing upward, there were no gargoyles. The French architect, Emilio Tarlier, instead, used turtles, iguanas and other animals native to the Galapagos Islands and the Amazon, the pride and joy of the Ecuadorian culture. He also altered the style of the church to blend in with the Spanish style of the city’s Old Town, which has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage since 1978.
After paying our admission, we wandered through the main floor of the basilica, admiring the colorful stained glass windows, bronze and wooden doors, artfully tiled floors, religious artwork and statues, vaulted ceilings and wooden confessionals. There were many side chapels and altars as well as the tombs of Gabriel Garcia Moreno, the former president of Ecuador and former Archbishop, Jose Ignazio Checa Barba.
As we stared appreciatively at the giant rose window at the far end of the basilica, we noticed people congregated in the gallery beneath the window. Searching for a stairway leading to this area, we found ourselves outside in a large, stone courtyard. Asking around, we finally determined that we needed to visit the ticket window in the courtyard to pay for access to the upper level, including the towers.
Finally, making our way up the stairs, we first stood upon the gallery which offered a magnificent view of the church below and a close-up view of the stained glass windows, including the stunning rose window. Stepping out a few feet within an opening we were also able to see parts of the the exterior of the basilica, as well as the flying buttresses and close-ups of some of the stone animals that decorate the exterior. Continuing our ascent, we made our way past the cafe and entered the clock tower. A fascinating space, we were able to inspect the inner workings of the massive clocks and old pictures of the construction of the basilica that decorated the tops of the walls. Here, we also had spectacular views of the city as well as the basilica’s other tower.
On the other tower, we could see movement and discovered that there were visitors making their way up and throughout the structure. We had not seen a walkway or any other point of access that would lead to this tower. Stepping into the gift shop, we discovered that on the other side of this shop, there was an entrance to the Condor Tower. It was a rather scary, narrow plank walkway leading across the basilica above the vaulted ceiling. A little apprehensive, we cautiously made our way to the other side and up the narrow ladder to the outer platform. Walking around the tower, we found the narrow stairs leading up to the top of the tower. Waiting our turn, as their was only room for one person moving up or down, I gathered my courage and made the steep climb. Not normally scared of heights, I could appreciate the spectacular view of the church’s roof and clock towers, but as I stood there, I thought about the instability of the area. What if an earthquake suddenly shook Quito? We took a quick couple of photos together, but I honestly couldn’t make the climb back down and over the walkway back to the main structure fast enough!
The Basilica del Voto Nacional is a breathtaking landmark for the churchgoers that call it home and for the thousands of tourists that visit to regard its beauty each year. Representing the breathtaking architecture found throughout the country it is both alluring and a welcoming respite for those seeking to pray and pay respects. It is important to allow at least two hours to fully appreciate all aspects of the church, especially the climbs into the towers. Though a bit daunting to some, making the ascent to see the views of the city landscape and El Panecillo between the spires is one you will never forget.
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Basilica del Voto Nacional Quito
Address: Carchi 122 y Venezuela., Quito, Pichincha 170150
Hours: 0900-1700, daily
Admission: Church admission, $2.00 US, Tower admission, $2.00
Recently, while walking in the Pinciano quarter, near Villa Borghese, I happened upon the church of Santa Teresa d’Avila, an early 20th century minor basilica.
Finding the doors unlocked, I ventured in to see what this church was about.
Designed in the neo-Romanesque style, the church was constructed rather quickly, beginning in 1901, and completed only one year later. Made a parochial church by Pope Pius X in 1906, the church was entrusted to the Discalced Carmelite friars, who to this day, continue to serve the parish with their convent located next door. Forty-five years later, under the orders of Pope Pius XII, the church’s status was elevated to Minor Basilica.
The exterior of the building is constructed of red brick and is rather unremarkable except for the two-storied entrance facade with its four columns and elaborately carved relief depicting Christ Blessing St. Teresa. The main entrance is graced with a bronze door designed by Fra Serafino Melchiore and the reliefs depicts scenes from the life of St. Teresa.
Sufficient to say, I hoped the interior would differ from the exterior thinking back to many of the churches I had visited in the city. Sadly, I found the decor to be quite plain except for a few decorative additions. Designed in a Latin cross plan, there were eight side altars, dedicated to Carmelite saints and two altars flanking the sanctuary and a main altar. Adorned with works by 20th century Roman artists, there was a wheel window with stained glass showing Christ the Apostles over the entrance, 18th century wooden choir stalls hailing from Santa Maria in Campo Marzio and a 17th century bronze crucifix by Pietro Tacca. Behind a screen of carved limestone, there was also a choir which contained a life-sized statue of St. Teresa.
My time in the church of Santa Teresa d’Avila was short and although I was not overwhelmed by my visitation, I’m glad I decided to take a quick look.
One more church marked off the Rome list!
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Spying a nearby church tower as we stood atop the Castel Sant’Elmo, we decided that this would be our next destination. Little did I realize at the time that it was a monastery…one of my favorite places to visit!
The Certosa e Museo di San Martino is located a short distance from the Castel Sant’Elmo and is truly a treasure of Naples. Built in 1325 and then rebuilt in the 17th century, this large monastery complex was more than we ever imagined.
As we entered the courtyard, we discovered the church that we spied from Castel Sant’Elmo. This baroque sanctuary is a masterpiece decorated with a stunning marble floor, various paintings by Jusepe de Ribera, sculptures by Guiseppe Sanmartino and frescoes by Battistello Caracciolo. At the presbytery, there is an intricate marble lattice, decorated with precious stones and altar made of the same materials. Be sure to take a look up at the ceilings which are richly decorated with frescoes.
As we continued our exploration, we came to the peaceful Grand Cloister (Chiostro Grande) which contains a monk’s graveyard in one corner. This graveyard was quite fascinating with it skull topped enclosure and provided us with some great photo ops.
The Quarto del Priore, which is the apartment used for the reception of important guests, contains some relevant masterpieces including a Madonna col Bambino e San Giovannino by Pietro Bernini.
Surprisingly, we discovered that the monastery houses the Museo Nazional di San Martino which offers a look a many collections. One of my passions is collecting nativity scenes from around the world. Here, the museum showcases their extensive collection, some extremely rare, dating back to the 1800’s.
In another part of the monastery, there are many precious objects, including paintings and bronze sculptures by Neapolitan artists of the 19th century. My favorite part of the exhibit, however, was The Sezione Navale, or Maritime Museum, where many model ships and ship’s instruments were on display. The most appealing was the full-sized Great Barge, used by King Charles of Bourbon in the 1700’s. Other areas offer displays showcasing sculpture and epigraphy and a library on the second floor dedicated to the Prints and Drawings Collections with over 8,000 pieces.
A short walk through the garden was also in order, which offered an overlook to the city. It was a bit overgrown and unkempt leading us to return to the cloistered areas to enjoy the outdoors.
Though this was not the original monastery I had hoped to visit, that being Monastero di Santa Chiara, Certosa e Museo di San Martino was close by and surpassed my expectations.
If anyone is visiting Naples and making the ascent to the Castel Sant’Elmo, save time for a visit to this amazing monastery next door!
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Address: Largo S. Martino, 5, 80129 Napoli NA, Italy
Hours: 0830-1830, Monday to Saturday. 0830-1600, Sunday. Closed Wednesday.
Admission: Full, 6,00€, Reduced, 3,00€
Getting There: Metro, Vanvitelli and then bus V1 to Piazzale San Martino. Bus: C28, C31, or C36 to Piazza Vanvitelli. Funicular: Centrale to Piazza Fuga or Montesanto to Morghen
Cruising into the Naxos harbor, you don’t have to go very far to see a piece of Greek history and architecture.
Greeting visitors to its island, is the Portara, the portal to the temple of Apollo, standing on the islet of Palatia.
The temple’s construction was started around 530 BC, when Lygdamis, the tyrant of Naxos, made the decision to build the highest and most magnificent building in all of Greece devoted to the honor of Apollo, the Greek God and protector of music and poets. After war broke out, work was halted and never completed.
After the temple’s marble was harvested for the Castle of Naxos, the doorway was deemed too heavy to dismantle and relocate, leaving a prodigious example of early Greek architecture to be studied and enjoyed by both visitors and locals for thousands of years to come.
Though we had spied the beautiful doorway as our ferry sailed into port, it wasn’t until our last day in Naxos that we finally made the walk across the causeway that connects the islet to Naxos.
Making our way up the steep path, we were eager to reach the pinnacle, but it was also essential to stop and enjoy the views of the blue Naxian waters, nearby Paros and the Naxian coastline in the distance.
As we made the summit, the remains of the temple spread out all around us with the Portara in the centrum. Staring through this vestibule at the white-washed city beyond it, I wondered if we should have come here during the evenings when we spied large numbers of visitors holding court awaiting the setting sun’s final descent beyond the island of Paros.
Yes, I think we should have.
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We could hate it…or it could be one of our most memorable trips yet!
One of the best parts of travel is discovering new places and cultures. I find it extremely exhilarating to explore a new city and find out what makes it tick!
What was it about Antigua Guatemala that makes it worthy to have received the distinction of UNESCO World Heritage site in 1979?
Antigua Guatemala means “Old Guatemala” and was the third capital of Guatemala, after earthquakes and uprisings forced the movement of the first two. Located in the central highlands of Guatemala, it is known for its beautifully preserved Spanish Baroque-influenced architecture and the large number of colonial churches ruined during previous years earthquakes.
Laid out in a square pattern, with streets running from north to south and east to west, we found that La Antigua (as it is sometimes referred to) was quite easy to navigate. As we set out onto the cobblestone streets, we passed many buildings that had been damaged during earthquakes. Rather than appearing as eyesores, however, these buildings, including the Antiguo Colegio de la Campaña de Jesús among others, add character to the charming city,
The Antiguo Colegio de la Campaña de Jesús is located next to the Spanish Embassy and was once a Jesuit monastery and college, established in 1626. After the Jesuits were expelled in 1767, the great earthquake that hit six years later, left the unoccupied building in ruins. Though we were unable to venture directly into the main part of the building, the Spanish government, which restored most of the complex, has turned it into a cultural center. Outside, we were able to admire the extravagantly carved (yet mostly headless) statues that grace the facade of the main building, but inside the complex, we were able to enjoy serene courtyards and abundant pieces of artwork on display.
Continuing our journey, we came to the heart of the city, the Plaza Mayor. This central plaza is a gathering spot for locals and visitors and is centered with a fountain. There are large trees that offer shade during the hottest parts of the day and benches to rest and talk. Due to the large number of visitors in town for the Holy Week’s festivities, there were many vendors attempting to peddle their wares and many locals in traditional dress. The perfect spot for people-watching!
Surrounding the square are a large number of restaurants, shops and banks, including the Palacio de los Capitanes Generales, which incorporates the headquarters of the Guatemala Institute of Tourism, the Antigua Tourism Association, the National Police and the Sacatepquez Department government.
Dominating the eastern side of the Plaza Mayor is the Antigua Guatemala Cathedral. The original church, built in 1541, was damaged heavily by many earthquakes over the years. The original church was demolished in 1669 and rebuilt and consecrated in 1680. The largest in Central America at the time, it was filled with precious works of art and housed the remains of Conquistador Pedro de Alvarado and his wife, Beatriz de la Cueva. In 1773, the catastrophic Santa Marta earthquake demolished much of the city and movement of the capital to (what is now known as) Guatemala City, was deemed necessary. This earthquake also seriously damaged most of the cathedral. Belonging to the parish of San Jose, the cathedral’s interior presently only occupies the entrance hall of the original edifice. It is not as richly decorated as I would have imagined, but it was nice to see the stations of the cross and the other holy statues, especially those decked out for Semana Santa.
As we walked out of the back doors into a cemented courtyard, we admired the exterior architecture of not only the cathedral but the buildings surrounding the cathedral. Noticing an entryway, we approached and found that we could investigate the ruins that remain from when the cathedral was demolished by the massive earthquake of 1773. Paying our entry fee, we walked through the remains of this once grand cathedral, mostly open above so that we could glimpse the blue sky. Though it takes a bit of imagination to envision how the cathedral once looked, it was exciting to walk through the structure, examining the ruined chapels and seeing the remains of the carved details atop the columns.
Something we learned was that after the destruction of the
church, it temporarily served as a cemetery.
Many tunnels have been discovered under the cathedral and we were also
able to descend into the South Crypt. A
dark, damp place, there was not much to see, but you can imagine the many souls
that have come to rest here.
In the rear of the remains, we found a work area where many pieces are being restored or placed for safekeeping. Despite the absence of many walls and a ceiling, this cathedral took my breath away for the purity that still remains. Much like visiting the Acropolis in Athens or the Forum in Rome, the detritus of this ancient structure leave much to the imagination, yet take your breath away at the same time.
After leaving the cathedral, we walked past the park once again, heading back to our hotel so that we could spend some time refreshing ourselves for much needed nourishment.
A couple of blocks from our hotel, on the corner of Alameda de Santa Lucia and 5a Calla Poniente, we peered through the gates at what we later learned was the Landivar Monument, dedicated to poet and local, Rafael Landivar. Built in 1953, this monument, erected in a park-like setting, pays tribute to the beloved writer and Jesuit priest who lived from 1731 until 1793. Though we walked by this peaceful place, every day, we never seemed to find the gates unlocked, though we were told that it would be open daily. Content to spy on its tranquility through the iron bars, we decided to save this for a future visit.
After a recommendation from our hotel for dinner, we headed back into the night seeking out the restaurant, La Fonda de la Calle Real, located near the Plaza Mayor. As we approached the park, we learned for the first time what the Santa Semana processions of this small city consisted of.
Hundreds of people lined the street of Poniente, which runs east to west, adjacent to the park. Processing down the street was a lighted, massive, religious, wooden shrine hoisted on the shoulders of a religious guild. Moving and swaying slowly to the melancholy music of the accompanying band, we watched in awe as the barge, complete with life-size effigies of the Virgin Mary and Jesus, passed a few feet from us. Many others marched with the procesiónes, dressed in robes and waving censers clouding the air with the smoke from burned incense.
As a Catholic, it was something to see…inspiring, touching and thrilling all at the same time!
Once the crowds dispersed, we finally headed to La Fonda unequivocally anticipating some delectable Guatemalan cuisine. Seated in a courtyard, open to the night sky, we started with guacamole and then both chose the traditional dish, Suban-iq, chicken, pork and beef slowly cooked in banana leaves, covered in a tomato, chilies and spices sauce. Accompanied by homemade tortillas (being made by a lady near the entryway), the food was delicious and just what we needed after our long day of travel and sightseeing.
Heading back to our hotel, stomachs filled, we eagerly readied ourselves for bed and within seconds, my mind reeling from all that we had experienced so far, I was asleep.
Not for long.
Shaken from my sleep, I sat up and realized that we had experienced our first earthquake! Though I was able to go back to sleep immediately, my son said that there were three or four aftershocks, making him a bit nervous, knowing that there were three nearby volcanoes.
What can I say? All in a days time, we had discovered so much! A new country, a new city, a new culture, new religious traditions, new foods and something entirely new (and a bit scary) to the both of us…an earthquake.
Yes, we were discovering Antigua…and this was only Day One!
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Antiguo Colegio de la Campana de Jesus
Address: H747XQ Antigua, Guatemala
Hours: 1000-1700
Admission: free
Plaza Mayor
Hours: 24 hours
Admission: free
Antigua Guatemala Cathedral
Address: 5a Calle Oriente 5, Antigua Guatemala, Guatemala
Hours: 0900-1700
Admission: Main church, free. Ruins, Q20 (about $3.00 US)
Landivar Monument
Address: Alameda de Santa Lucia, Antigua Guatemala, Guatemala
After visiting Zurich’s Predigerkirche, I was on a quest to make it to the last of the city’s four major churches that I had not visited before the end of the day.
The Church of St. Peter’s.
Problem was, there were so many photos to take in the beautiful Neumarkt area that I kept getting sidetracked!
Finally, crossing the river, it was easy to find the oldest parish church in Zurich. Standing on the former site of an ancient Roman temple to the god Jupiter, the church’s clock tower is said to be the largest in Europe and can be spied from most locations within the city. With a clock face measuring almost nine meters in diameter, it is an amazing site to behold!
Arriving at the church, we discovered, as did other tourists arriving at the same time, that the entrance was opposite of where we thought.
Making our way down the stairs, through the alley and back up another set of stairs, we finally found a courtyard with some interesting art pieces. Not even convinced that this was the entrance, we made our way inside to discover what makes this church interesting.
In 1345, the church was acquired by the city’s first mayor, Rudof Brun. His grave and monument can be seen by the outer tower wall. The first pastor, Leo Jud, served from 1523 until 1542 and contributed to the first translation of the Bible in Zurich. The church’s second pastor, J.C. Lavater, served from 1778 until 1801 and was so popular that people reserved seats for Sunday mass. His gravestone is in the courtyard, to the left of the entrance, on the church wall.
As I walked into the church, I noticed immediately the similarities between St. Peter’s and the Predigerkirche. The first church in Zurich that was built as a Protestant place of worship, after the Reformation during the eighth century, St. Peter’s exhibits the same elegant, simplicity although its tower and choir date back from a Romanesque church built in 1230.
During the Middle Ages, the short spire windows of the tower was the home of the town watchman, whose duty was to look out of the windows every fifteen minutes for signs of fire. Should a fire be spotted, he would sound an alarm and hang a flag out of the window facing the fire. Since Zurich, unlike so many other cities, never endured a major fire, the system worked well.
As I walked through the interior of the church, I took note of the three-aisled Baroque nave and the Romanesque choir that still contains some faded medieval murals. Above the pulpit, the name of God in Hebrew can be spotted, reflecting the Reformation emphasis on the original biblical languages. Another important feature of the church is the original 9th century foundation walls which can still be seen beneath the chancel.
In addition, St. Peter’s contains a baptismal font, dating back to 1598 and richly carved choir chairs from the 15th century. These chairs were transported to the church from the suppressed convents of the city. Make sure to take a look upward at the beautiful crystal chandeliers and the wood paneled gallery.
Even though, I initially thought that St. Peter’s was so very like the Predigerkirche, I learned from my visit that this church had a much richer history and much more to discover in its interior.
If you are taking a stroll through the streets of Zurich, take a look upward, find the largest clock tower and head that way! Its worth the visit!
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If you are a church lover (like me!) and visiting Zurich, there are four churches that are must-sees!
The Grossmunster, the Fraumunster, the Church of St. Peter and the Predigerkirche.
Cloudy, drizzly day aren’t optimal for day trips outside of the city so I decided, instead, to head toward the train station and into the old town area of Zurich to seek out the two churches I had never visited on previous trips.
The Predigerkirche, the Preacher’s Church, was first built in 1231 AD as a Romanesque church, the largest in the city and converted in the first half of the 14th century when the choir was rebuilt and the high bell tower was added. Originally part of a monastery of the Dominican Order, the church appears to have been modeled after the Basilica of San Domenico in Bologna which was the most important church of the Dominicans and where their founder, Saint Dominic was buried in 1221. The church is now used as the “open town church” or a place of encounter with its side aisles containing a library, easy chairs and a dining area for free Sunday lunches. It also employs a Catholic priest and celebrates joint masses with Muslims and Buddhists and is often the site of evening concerts.
With my excitement growing as I turned off of Limmatquai street and made my way up the hill, I could see the beautiful bell tower of the church which is regarded as the highest Gothic edifice in Zurich. As I arrived at the church on Zahringerplatz, however, I was a bit disappointed with the church’s plain facade. Though the high window-lined walls of the side and rear of the church were a bit more interesting, I simply could not believe that this was was the entrance, especially with its magnificent bell tower!
Entering the church, I was also a bit underwhelmed. Appearing to be elegant and modern at first glance, I began to walk around the space, hoping for more detail. The high arched ceiling caught my attention and lent to the lofty atmosphere along with the wide, square columns which divided the space. Although the ceiling was decorated with light gold rosettes and molding, it was quite disappointing combined with the plain altar. Beautiful in its own right…I guess I am used to the extravagantly decorated churches of Italy!
As I turned to the rear of the church, the magnificent organ in the gallery caught my eye. Now, this piece definitely gives the church a bit of extravagance. I had noticed that there were other smaller organs scattered throughout the church but this pipe organ, built by Paul Hintermann and Jakob Schmidt, is the showstopper. It was installed in 1970, after the original (1503) was broken during the Reformation struggle and the replacement (1879), was deemed unworthy.
Another piece that caught my eye along the outer perimeter of the church was the grave plate of Heinricus de Ruchentstein, a ministerial member of the House of Rappersil and dates back to 1270. The grave plate is the oldest surviving piece of this kind and the oldest surviving grave plate in Switzerland. It is notable due to its arrangement of the inscription, the absence of the date and a cross.
Exiting the church, I made my way out into the streets of the Neumarkt quarter. Though I was a bit disappointed with my time at the Predigerkirche, it was still an interesting visit and I was glad that I had made my way into this part of the city. Certainly, I couldn’t skip out on seeing the final two of the main churches of the city.
Now, it was off to find St. Peter’s!
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Where would you go for the price of a train ticket?
Rome has set the bar very high for me as far as Italian cities go. I never tire of walking through the city and finding that around every corner there is something bigger and better. I don’t ever feel as though I need to venture outside of the city.
Milan, however, was never a place that I could find footing with. In fact, I would complain (to anyone who would listen) about how much I hated going there. I always felt like I had to work extra-hard to find the things that make it Milan…and it was never just around the corner.
Over the years, I have done research and found those outstanding and sometimes hidden gems that make Milan special…there were more than I ever imagined and more of which I hope to come. Lately, however, I have stumbled upon an interesting fact. The trains in Milan are relatively inexpensive.
For the price of a train ticket, I could venture outside of Milan and discover so much more. That inexpensive ticket opens up lots of possibilities with so many charming Italian cities nearby that you can explore.
Having visited the city of Pavia, about a 45 minute journey from Milan, I had heard about Certosa di Pavia, one of the largest monasteries in Italy. In fact, I had seen it in the distance from my window on the train when I visited Pavia. Filling the skyline in the countryside, it appeared imposing and mysterious…I had to buy a train ticket to check it out!
Getting to the monastery was quite easy. The subway near my hotel, brought me to Garibaldi station and from there I was able to take a train straight to the Certosa di Pavia station. One there, it was about a 12-15 minute walk, following the path around the high monastery walls to the entrance.
Having discovered that a tour was offered at the opening times in Italian only, I was a bit disappointed that there were no others in English. Someone, however, gave me a bit of advice…take the tour in Italian. Even if you don’t understand any of it, you will get to see parts of the monastery that are not open to those not taking part in the tour.
Time to muster all of my Italian…and I promise, there’s not enough in my repertoire to understand a guide on a tour.
There were many visitors congregating at the entrance and right on schedule, someone was there to open the gates and allow everyone in.
Now, I have been to the Duomo in Milan many times and to this day, I am still awe-struck by its beauty and intricacies. This place definitely gives the Duomo a run for its money! Towering above the grass courtyard, it simply takes your breath away! Every nook and cranny of the structure’s facade is filled with reliefs, statues and inlaid carvings and you want to stand there and take in every minute detail.
Heading inside, however, I was on a mission to make sure that I did not miss the tour. Mouth gaping at the larger than life-size statues dominating the dimly lit space, I obliged when beckoned by the monk behind the gates at the rear of the church.
Starting at the left side structure, our tour commenced with a request…no photographs. It was interesting however, to realize that the monks who reside in the monastery now are of the order of the Cistercians, those who have taken a vow of silence. How is it that this Cistercian monk was giving us a tour? It was later, that I learned that some of the monks have been released from their vow for the sole purpose of giving guided tours.
Moving throughout the spaces behind the gates, the monk guided us though each of the areas within the church probably informing our tour group of the important details about the church’s inception.
(My Italian lacking severely, I was busy sneaking photos, not even trying to comprehend what was being communicated!)
The monastery, built in 1396-1495, is one of the largest in Italy. Founded by the monastic order of Carthusians, the Certosa is vastly different in style than what the Carthusians were normally known for…simplicity of architecture.
Originally, the church was built to serve as a mausoleum for the Visconti family and was built in the Gothic style with a Latin cross plan, consisting of a nave, two aisles and transept. Indeed inspired by the Duomo of Milan, its crossed vaults on Gothic arches are alternately decorated with geometrical shapes and starry skies.
A fresco, Incoronation of Mary between Francesco and Ludovico Sforza can be seen in the main apse as well as other frescoes with saints and prophets. The Certosa also exhibits other painted masterpieces by Bergognone including the panels of St. Ambrose and San Siro and the Crucifixion. Some important paintings originally in the church have either disappeared or been disassembled and distributed among museums, including the National Gallery of London. Inside the Chapel of St. Michael, frescoes by Carlo Francesco Nuvolone can be inspected and there is an important collection of stained glass windows by 15th century masters, including Zanetto Bugatto, Vincenzo Foppa, Bergognone and Hans Witz. Many notable sculptural works can be found here including the carved wooden choir stalls, the marble altar frontals, a bronze candelabra by Annibale Fontana and a 16th century high altar.
The Chapel of St. MichaelThe Chapel of St. MichaelThe Chapel of St. Michael
The tomb of Gian Galeazzo Visconti can be found in the southern transept as well as the tomb of Ludovico Sforza, the 7th Duke of Milan and his wife Beatrice d’Este in the northern transept.
The tomb ofLudovico Sforza, the 7th Duke of Milan and his wife Beatrice d’Este
Reproduction of the tomb ofLudovico Sforza, the 7th Duke of Milan and his wife Beatrice d’Estein the Museum of Certosa di Pavia
The tomb of Gian Galeazzo Visconti
Following the monk, we were awestruck by the portal with sculptures by the Mantegazza brothers, leading to the Small Cloister with a small garden in the center and the terracotta decorations on the small pilasters. The Grande Cloister was similarly decorated with the cells of the monks opening to a central garden. It was quite interesting (and moving) to walk through one of the monk’s cells to see just how simply they lived.
The Small CloisterThe Small CloisterFountain in the Small Cloister
Fountain in the Small Cloister
The Grande Cloister
The Grande Cloister
The Grande CloisterThe Grande Cloister
The Grande CloisterThe monk’s gardenA monk’s cell
After our tour was complete, I once again walked through the parts of the church that had caught my attention and finally made my way to the Museum. With free admission, the museum is worth taking the time to walk through and displays many of the Certosa’s impressive pieces and informs about the history the area. What I loved the most, however, is the plaster casts of friezes from the church’s facade. Here you can see, up close, what you can’t see with the naked eye due their locations high in the facade.
Finally, I headed into the Monastic Shop where the products made by the monks who reside at the monastery are sold. There is a large selection of herbal teas, alcoholic beverages, soaps, honey, religious icons and rosaries for purchase and you might spy one of those monks catching a nap in the corner, like I did!
Before heading out, I spent some time walking around the grounds in front of the church before heading out to make my way back to the train station.
Happy that I learned about the inexpensive price of Italy’s trains, I inserted my few euros into the ticket machine and purchased my return ticket, headed back to Milan, dinner and some much needed rest.
Most impressed by the Certosa di Pavia, this will most certainly be the first of many adventures outside of Milan!
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Address: Via del Monumento, 4, 27012 Certosa di Pavia PV, Italy
Hours: 0900-1130 and 1430-1630. Closed Mondays.
Admission: free
Getting There: There are trains from many stations in Milan. I traveled from Milan Garibaldi station straight to, Certosa di Pavia, one stop before Pavia. You can see the monastery from the station and it is about a fifteen minute walk to the entrance to the monastery.
Say it, moving your mouth, but not emitting a sound.
It looks like your are saying, “I Love Oil”.
Well, if it is oil, as in olive oil…I do love it!
I will admit, I never knew a lot about what makes one olive oil better than another. Last year, standing in the olive oil section of a grocery store in Athens, I was stumped. I needed some to bring home, but I had no ideas as to which one was better than the next. Finally, a kindly older gentleman took pity on me and helped me pick out a couple of bottles. Situation solved on that trip.
But, yes, I definitely needed an olive oil education!
So, when my friend texted me and asked if I would be interested in joining her on an olive oil tour while we were both in Rome, of course, I said YES!
Heading out into to cold, wet May afternoon, it didn’t quite seem as though we were nearing the Italian summer months. Still, we had a plan and the wet stuff was not going to hamper our good time!
From the Tiburtina station, we caught a train to Fara Sabina where we would meet our tour guide, Johnny Madge, a Brit who has lived in the area since the early 80’s. A former marble sculptor, he has evolved into a world class olive oil judge after buying a farmhouse in the middle of an olive grove and learning everything he could about the small oval fruit.
Johnny, a good natured gentleman, first took us for a coffee (to help perk us up a bit) and then we headed out onto the small, dirt roads of the Italian countryside. Since the skies were growing darker by the minute, we decided to first head to the tree that bears the title of the Oldest Olive Tree in Europe…there are signs along the way to prove it, though the Olive Tree of Vouves in Crete would probably disagree!
This tree sits in the yard of one of the locals…not in an olive grove as you might expect. It was conveyed that owner will sometimes come out and say hello (anticipating a few coins for his trouble), but on this day, I am guessing that the weather kept him inside.
We ventured through his yard, passing his pet peacocks and his prized pizza oven (doesn’t every Italian have one in their yard?) and to through the small stone wall which protects the area around the gigantic tree, which is said to be about 2,000 years old and still productive. This tree’s girth is so large that it takes about five people to hug it and is hollow in the inside. The massive branches are so heavy and tall that the owner has taken some steps to give it some stability.
Continuing on our journey, we stopped at a nearby olive grove and inspected a mere baby…only 500 years old. Also, hollow, it provided for some fun souvenir photos!
Johnny was a wealth of information and continually pulled over to the side of the road to show us different herbs and flowers that are native to the region. It was amazing to realize how much someone can glean from the land…something us city folks don’t often think about!
Because it was a Sunday, we were unable to visit the places where the olives are sorted and made into olive oil, a little disappointing, but expected. As we pulled into the parking lot of one particular place of business, Johnny explained the pruning and picking process to us and how the olives are pressed into olive oil. He further went on to explain how the determination is made as to whether an olive oil is categorized as extra virgin or not…something I never knew!
Driving onward on the winding roads, we looked up on the ridge of the mountainside at the beautiful town of Toffia, with is church standing proudly at the highest point and a grotto devoted to the Blessed Virgin down below in the valley.
Driving to the entrance gate, we were able to snap a few photos as the rain came down upon us.
Next stop was the small town of Farfa. Bordered by olive groves on either side, this picturesque village with unique boutiques, quaint restaurants and pretty houses is also home to one of the most famous abbeys in Europe, belonging to the Benedictine Order. Entering the abbey, I wasn’t aware of its status at the time, but I knew it was something special…unlike anything I had seen anywhere before. The cathedral was divided into three naves and every surface covered in beautiful friezes, with a stunning lunette representing the Virgin and the Child in the middle. Several chapels line the exterior walls and the interior wall of the facade showcases a large canvas of Last Judgment (1571) by Flemish painter Henrik van der Broek.
Such an important, historic place, several kings (including Charlemagne), emperors and Popes (including most recently Pope John Paul II, 19th May 1993) have visited the Abbey throughout the centuries.
Guided tours are offered on in Italian every day except on Mondays and would be a great way to see all parts of the church, including the crypt entrance and the archaeological museum if you have the time as well as the surrounding grounds.
Wandering around the village we stepped into many of the artisan’s shops inspecting their beautifully hand-made wares…of course, Mother’s Day was coming up and some tea towels to wrap around olive oil bottles was a must!
Finally, with the sun getting lower in the afternoon sky, we headed to the town of Montopoli. It was here at a local pizza restaurant, where we finally sat with Johnny to have an olive oil tasting. Explaining to us how to slurp the oil to the back of our throats, it was there that we were looking for a burn, thus giving us the knowledge that it was indeed, extra virgin. Sampling three different olive oils with our delicious meal was the something new to me…I never thought that I could drink olive oil straight, something very good for us Johnny explained and I never realized how differently olive oil could taste.
With full bellies, we packed up our belongings into Johnny’s van and headed back to the Fara Sabina train station for our ride into the still wet Rome but with a greater knowledge of Italy’s olive oil!
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Address: Via del Monastero, 1, 02032 Castelnuovo di Farfa RI, Italy
Hours: 1000-1900. Guided tours are performed hourly every day except on Monday from 1000 to 1300 and from 1530 to 1830 (Sat. and Sun. 1500-1900 during Summer)
