© 2018 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.
Rising early, I was hoping for a grand view of the Arenal volcano at sunrise before we set out for our whitewater rafting trip. Low clouds…no luck! In fact, we watched as it drizzled a bit while eating breakfast and wondered what our day might be like on the Balsa River. I knew we were going to get wet, but, I was hoping for a little sun!
Having booked a whitewater rafting trip with Arenal Rafting, we set out down the little rocky mountain road to make the thirty minute trek into La Fortuna. Although Arenal Rafting offers pick up at local hotels, we were a little too far from town so we had planned to check-in at the company’s office. Arriving early, we learned a lot about the area and what our day would entail from Arenal Rafting’s owner, Danial Anchia, a local whitewater enthusiast, pioneer of the adventure industry and member of the Costa Rica National White Water Rafting Team. We were definitely in good hands!
Departing at 9:00, we joined a friendly group on the tour bus, making our way down scenic highways, past other attractions and quaint towns. After a quick stop at a local restaurant for coffee and a bathroom break, we continued the journey to our starting point.
Even though I had done a short rafting trip (5 km) in Thailand in the Phang Nga province a few years ago, I felt a different dynamic here and was a bit nervous, especially when we were instructed on what to do within the raft…besides paddle. There was so much to remember, depending on what the conditions were in the river. If there were many rocks…“Get Down”…and we had to slide down to the floor of the raft and hold our paddles upright. “Paddle Forward” and “Paddle Back” were the easiest. Then, the scariest of the instructions…What To Do If You Fall Out of the Raft! Surely that wasn’t going to happen?
The waters of the Balsa River are controlled by the government and released during certain times of the day, allowing suitable conditions for whitewater trips down the river. As we waited for the river to rise to the appropriate level, we were divided into groups…my son and I were matched up with three lovely young ladies from Beijing and placed with Arenal Rafting guide, Melvin.
Stepping into the raft, we pushed off from the bank, the swift current carrying us rapidly down the river.
“Paddle Forward!” We all paddled…some a little more forcefully than others and some keeping better time with each other. It definitely took a little effort to get it down pat.
When we entered the areas of stronger rapids, my nerves ramped up, especially when we heard Melvin yell, “Get Down”. This took a few attempts, on my part, to remember the correct way to hold the paddle upright without decapitating my son who was with me, on my right, at the front of the boat.
The cold water continually splashed over the front of the boat, making us gasp and we relished the moments when the waters calmed for a few seconds. Thankfully, we all managed to stay in the raft, though I can’t say another raft from another company was as fortunate. As we swung around a large boulder, we watched their raft coming toward us, their smiles and elation turning to horror as they hit the boulder and flipped into the river…all while Melvin was yelling for us to “Paddle Forward!”. As I turned around, I realized that our numbers had increased as we had fished some of their group out of the river. A few scrapes and a drenching, but all were okay!
Soon the waters steadied to a slow flow and we were able to marvel at the beauty of the Costa Rican terrain. Breathtaking flowering trees, sloths hanging onto the occasional branch…we even spotted a toucan flying above us, making a river crossing. Truly, spectacular sights to behold!
Pulling our rafts onto a nearby bank, we mingled with other rafters while our guides prepared a delicious snack of fresh fruit to enjoy as we rested our weary arms.
A short while later, we headed back into the course, aiming to complete our journey. Letting my guard down, I felt a tug on my life jacket and thanks to Melvin, took an involuntary swim. I don’t know if I have ever experienced cold water like that…definitely takes your breath away!
Spotting our buses in the distance, parked under a bridge, we realized our intrepid journey had come to an end as our guides offered us warm, dry towels, waters and best of all, beer! We could all toast to a successful trip!
After a stop at a local restaurant to dry off and change clothes, we were treated to a lunch of chicken, rice and beans. Muy delicioso!
Our river journey had finally come to end. Not having had any experience with any other companies or recommendations when booking our whitewater rafting trip, it was fortunate that I found Arenal Rafting. A company that takes safety, as well as hospitality seriously, we couldn’t have enjoyed our adventure any more than we did!
For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.
Arenal Rafting
- http://www.arenalrafting.com/
- Balsa River Tour, Class II and III rapids. Tour offered daily, departure 0900, return 1500. Appropriate for ages 8 years and older. $65 per person
- Toro River Tour, Class III and IV rapids. Tour offered daily, departure 0900, return 1500. Appropriate for ages 12 years and older. $85 per person.
- Upper Balsa River Tour, Class III and IV rapids. Tour offered daily, departure 0900, return 1500. Appropriate for ages 12 years and older. $85 per person.
- Transportation offered from local La Fortuna hotels.
Finally, with mid-afternoon approaching, we decided to head toward our hotel, which would be our base of operations for the next couple of days, the Arenal Lodge.
The Arenal Lodge is located on 2,000 acres and is known for its stunning views of the Arenal volcano and Lake Arenal. The rainforest surrounding it is home to exotic birds, butterflies, frogs, small animals, tropical flowers and native trees which can be viewed from the walking trails leading from the lodge or from horseback rides led on the trails throughout the day.
If braving the steep, jagged road back to town in the dark isn’t appealing, especially after a few drinks, the lodge offers a full service bar and restaurant, serving international and casual Costa Rican cuisine with views of the volcano and a large outdoor seating area on the deck. An extensive complimentary breakfast is also offered and rooms contain microwaves and refrigerators.
Life is good.
As we ventured into the well-manicured, but jungle-like landscape, we first encountered the aviary which contains some of the most exciting and colorful birds of Costa Rica. The birds that reside here have been illegally captured by hunters and confiscated by the government or donated by their owners. Unfortunately, they all lack the basic skills to survive in the wild on their own, but are well cared for by the staff of the park. Inside the aviary, we entered the toucan enclosure where we were assisted with feeding the toucans by holding food in our mouths. Once we moved our hands and exposed the food, the friendly birds took the food straight from our lips!
One of the knowledgeable guides continued to walk with my son and I through the aviary, pointing our different species, including macaws, tanagers, parrots and finches. Leading us to a caged enclosure, we discovered two sloths hanging from their wooden perches. This amazing guide not only took my camera into the enclosure to take some pictures for me, he then invited us into the cage after a group of onlookers had departed. What a treat! We were able to stand just below the sloths for great photo opportunities…one even reached down in an attempt to comb my hair with his long claws!
Thanking the guide, we continued on into the insect exhibit and the butterfly observatory where many of the 25 species of butterfly continually landed on our arms, heads and even my face. My favorite part of the observatory was the laboratory area where we could observe the butterflies emerging from their chrysalis or in larva stages of their growth.
Exiting the observatory, we walked through Monkey Pass inspecting the spider and white-faced monkeys climbing and swinging through their exhibit. These monkeys 
Walking through the hummingbird garden, we then watched the diminutive feathered creatures flitting around amongst the trees and bushes while making our way to the serpentarium which showcases 30 of the most beautiful, yet deadly snakes of Costa Rica. Here, we were able to view, up close and personal, boa constrictors, bushmasters, vipers and even the colorful yet venomous sea snake found off the Pacific Coast of the country.
The next exhibit displayed most of the six species of endangered Central American cats, including jaguars, pumas and ocelots which were placed in the care of the park after the Costa Rican Ministry of the Environment lost funding and the animals were unable to be released into the wild. These animals reside in glass enclosures and can be viewed at close range. Though beautiful to see at such a close distance, both my son and I were dismayed to see the jaguars pacing the cage continually…very sad to be in such close range to an area where they should be able to live free.
After departing the cat enclosures, we made our way to the orchid and frog exhibits. The orchids were quite beautiful, but the frogs definitely stole the show. In the humid ranarium, there are many species of native frogs that are allowed to roam (or hop) freely. Here, you can find the Blue Jeans Poison Dart Frog, Caribbean Striped Poison Dart Frog, the Bullfrog and everyone’s favorite, the Red-Eyed Leaf Frog which looks very different while at rest. When sleeping, the frog looks like a fat, green lump. When awake, it is one of the most intriguing amphibians with its bright red, bulging eyes and red palms and soles.
Before moving on, make sure to visit Casita de la Paz, a farmhouse reproduction built using tools available to the average farmer a century ago. See how water was collected and heated within the home, how the farmer would have lived within the home and two oxcarts, colorful vehicles used to transport coffee beans from Costa Rica’s central valley over the mountains to the Pacific coast. Keep an eye out for the friendly mapaches, Costa Rica’s raccoon, that run around, and sometimes through, the cabin.
Finally, we were ready to hit the trails and make our way to the five waterfalls located in the park. Well constructed viewing platforms allow for amazing photo opportunities and a cooling, mist shower whether you need it or not! The Trail of Falls allows visitors to see five different cascades via trails and metal staircases following the Rio La Paz as it flows almost 5,000 feet down the slopes of the Poas Volcano. The first waterfall, El Templo, plunges 104 feet into a pool of clear water surrounded by lush tropical vegetation. Magia Blanca (White Magic), the tallest of the five, descends 131 feet and you can observe it from above and below the drop-off. Continuing downriver, you can gaze upon Escantada (65 feet) and the much smaller, Escondido Falls. The final deluge can be seen from the park, however, to get the full effect, it is best viewed from the end of the trail, walking along the highway (or drive the short distance upon departure from the park). After all that climbing, if you are not up to returning the way you came (and my shaky legs were not), you can descend 400 steps to the gift shop and bus stop where a free shuttle bus is provided by the Gardens that takes you back to the reception area.
These caba
This part of Costa Rica is very beautiful and offers mountainous views, rolling hillsides and a major tourist attraction, Poas Volcano. Though still closed since its eruption last year, the government is hoping for a re-opening (with some implemented restrictions) later this year.
Excitement aside, Hector began placing the fishing rods in their holders at the rear of the boat…five in all…trailing the lures in the dark blue water behind us.
Soon on our way, after an early departure, rain threatened our journey on and off until we arrived at our first stop, Skogafoss Waterfall. Though there wasn’t sufficient time to climb the long winding stairway to admire the largest waterfall in the country from the top (82 feet and a 200 foot drop), I was able to photograph the cascading waters very near its base, only getting slightly wet from the massive amounts of spray that the waterfall produces. As the rain temporarily cleared and the sun peeked out around the clouds, a beautiful rainbow was visible near the base of the waterfall.
Signs line the pathway to the beach warning of danger from the rogue waves that roll in with full force from the Atlantic, but when you arrive at the beach, there is no shortage of people daring the tide…laying on the beach, trying to get their best photgraphic shots of the rolling waves and getting as close to these monsters as possible. Spying a few soaked tourists, I stayed as far away as possible.
The adjacent, small village of Vík í Mýrdal, with 450 inhabitants, lies directly under the Myrdalsjokull glacier, which sits atop the volcano Katla. Speculation is that since there has not been an eruption since 1918, another may be brewing causing glacier melt and flash flooding which could decimate the village. Regular drills are held in the village directing residents to the local church which sits atop a hill hopefully protecting it from the floodwaters. If you are driving the ring road around the island, it is important to keep this village in mind as it is the only service center between Skógar and the west edge of the Mýrdalssandur glacial outwash.
Leaving Vík í Mýrdal, we were finally on our way to Sólheimajökull glacier, driving past beautiful countryside views. Donning my ski pants, hat and gloves while enroute, I readied myself for what we would encounter.
Soon, we were making our way up the trail, heading toward the glacier. Carrying our crampons on our axes, we walked along the edge of the glacial lake to our staging area. A beautiful rainbow stretched like a bridge across the lake and we could not wait to make the climb up to the glacier. After a quick lesson in strapping on our crampons, we were ready.
Entering through the main Famedio, a Neo Medieval style memorial chapel made of marble and stone, I first stopped to gaze upon the beautiful blue ceiling and the tomb of novelist, Alessandro Manzoni before making my way through each of the hallways. I particularly loved walking along the outer edges of the open-aired corridors so that I could admire the building’s architecture, the courtyard and the ornate tombs that line the area.
Before making my way into the cemetery’s immaculately groomed grounds, I then walked the full length of the building’s lower level, exiting at the center, where I could examine the map and the locations of the cemetery’s famous occupants. In this area is also a structure comprised of metal tubes and black and white stones centered with a small clay bowl placed inside the main formation. Surrounded by memorial plaques, I was informed by a fellow bystander that it is a monument to the 800 Italians who perished in Nazi concentration camps and the bowl was filled with soil from the Mauthausen concentration camp.
Wandering the grounds, through the avenues of trees, should be reserved for an unhurried pace as to absorb entire beauty of the surroundings and that’s just what I did. It was impossible not to want to stop and inspect each monument, so detailed and individualized were they. Many of the tombs and funerary monuments are of such an extravagant size, it is almost as through you are walking through a neighborhood of homes.
Fighting the strong winds, we managed to snap a couple of pictures and with a glance at our watches, we decided that if that path we missed on the way here was indeed a quicker, shorter way, we then had thirty minutes to make it back to the palace before the ticket counter closed.
