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Sugarloaf Mountain.
Honestly, I have to admit, I had never heard of it. I have seen pictures of the beautifully shaped, towering mountain, but I guess I never realized what a popular attraction it was in Rio de Janeiro. Maybe had I watched the Simpsons episode (Blame It On Lisa) where Lisa’s kidnappers met with the family for an exchange between two cable cars, I might have had it all figured out!
On my second morning in Rio, I was up early and Ubering to the cable car station at Praia Vermelha, ready to see what this place was all about.
Sugarloaf Mountain is actually one of several monolithic granite and quartz mountains rising straight from the water’s edge around Rio de Janeiro. Declared a World Heritage Site in 2012, the peaks of Sugarloaf…Morro da Urca and Pão de Açúcar…are reached by glass-walled cable cars (teleféricos) and are visited by thousands of visitors every day there to take advantage of the incredible hiking trails and unparalleled views.
After purchasing my ticket, I took my place in line hoping to get a good spot in the teleférico. Luckily, I was one of the first in and snagged a position in the front of the car, heading to the top of Urca Hill, 220 meters above sea level. This part of the ride offered me my first aerial views of Copacabana and Ilha Cortunduba just off the coast. After I disembarked, I walked around for a few minutes, inspecting the two cable cars displayed here…the first cable car from 1912 and a more modern version. There are a number of trails that run through the thick vegetation, however, I decided continue my journey upward after getting my first views of Niteroi Bridge and Guanabara Bay and my second viewing of the Christ statue standing proud on its peak.
Boarding the next, larger teleferico on Urca, I was once again lucky enough to have a good position in the cabin for the three minute ride. Upon my exit, the view from the top of Sugarloaf was incomparable to any other I had ever seen. With a 360 degree view of the area, I gazed upon the whole of Rio, Niteroi and the blue waters of the Atlantic and Guanabara Bay and inland to the tropical forested mountains, including the peak, Dedo de Deus (God’s Finger), located 50 miles from Rio. Spying a low-flying airplane, I followed its descent until I located the Santos Dumont Airport in the north.
Deciding to have lunch at the restaurant overlooking the ocean, I took a seat and prepared to order. After waiting a while, I noticed that the staff was a extremely busy and no one had yet to take my order, wasting precious time. Yet, all was not lost…having come down to this area, I discovered a trail. Walking among the beautiful trees and tropical growth on the well-paved path, I noticed that I was being followed. A marmoset was running on the handrail next to me! As I stopped to watch, two more joined him. An amazing spectacle, they preened and posed and then I was fortunate to hear them call to each other. Truly priceless!
After making a few souvenir purchases in the gift shop, it was time to make the journey down again.
Although my time in Rio was brief, there are many things to see and do and finding time to squeeze them all in was paramount. Without having prior knowledge of Sugarloaf, I may have timed my visit a little differently. Though I thoroughly enjoyed the jaw dropping views during the clear morning, I understand that evening is the prime time to visit for viewing the colorful sunsets.
Ah yes. Sunsets on Sugarloaf. That will have to wait for another time. But for this night…in the words of the song by the band, The Guess Who, there was No Sugar Tonight.
Next visit.
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Sugarloaf Mountain
- http://www.bondinho.com.br/en/informacoes-gerais/
- Address: Avenida Pasteur, 520 – Botafogo, Rio de Janeiro – RJ 22290-240
- Hours: 0800-1950, daily
- Admission: R$80 (about $21.50 US), Ages 6-21 R$40 (about $10.75), Children under 6 years, free.
Christ the Redeemer Statue. Cristo Redentor.
Driving through the city was fascinating…the architecture and busy streets held my attention until I realized we were climbing. After a while, we pulled into the National Park area and the Cosme Velho station. Here, we were transferred to another van which would take us the remainder of the way to the statue.
After a beautiful drive through the Italian countryside, we pulled into the winery property. One of the owners, Michelle, greeted us warmly and showed us the grapes growing at the rear of the property. She explained the different varieties and showed us some that were beginning to ripen.
Finally, we took a seat in the quaint tasting room and began to sample their fare, beginning with two whites, moving on to Prosecco and then finally their reds. Each, truly more delicious than the last!
Our hosts, Roberto and Michelle, were friendly and kind and despite our lack of Italian and their sometimes limited English, made us feel so at home.
The sun rose higher as we glided down river, finally pulling our boats onto the shore for our first rest and excursion. Arizona Hot Springs. Walking past boulders, gushing streams and high bluffs, we made our way inland through the slot canyon, noticing the temperature around us rising. Stepping into the water, it was noticeably warmer. Further upstream, the temperatures rose even higher. Climbing a twenty foot ladder to an overhead cliff, the water temperature was extremely hot, pouring forth from a geothermal spring. Taking a seat, we soaked for a few minutes, our muscles enjoying the torridity.
The Assembly Hall, located on the southwest corner, seats approximately 2,000 people and sometimes acts as an overflow area for the church’s twice-a-year general conferences. Free music concerts are held here and as I admired the impressive organ used for these recitals, a young lady struck up a conversation with me. Hailing from France, I found out that she is one of the full-time sister missionaries from around the globe, who serve on Temple Square. Giving me some history of the Assembly Hall, she told me about the concerts held in the building, the impressive organ and suggested that my next stop be the Tabernacle. She informed me that if I was impressed by the organ in the Assembly Hall, I would probably be blown away by what I would find in the Tabernacle.
Once my walk-around was complete, I made my way across the well-manicured lawn to the Tabernacle to see this incredible organ. Although I had heard about the Mormon Tabernacle Choir, my only knowledge of them was that they are associated with the LDS Church. Speaking with another sister missionary, I learned that the choir, founded in 1847, consists of 360 members and has performed in the Tabernacle for over a hundred years. Members must be part of the church, between the ages of 25 and 55 and live within 100 miles of Temple Square. And the organ? Wow, what can I say? Containing 11,623 pipes, it is one of the largest organs in the world. It was originally built in 1867 and was rebuilt and enlarged several times with the current version having been completed in 1948. The Mormon Tabernacle Choir performs with the accompaniment of the organ for daily recitals, which are open to the public. Another organ, consisting of 7,708 pipes is housed across the street in the Conference Center and is used for performances during the church’s semiannual general conferences.
Continuing on, my next stop was at the North Visitors Center. Most important to note in this building is the beautiful replica of the Christus, a statue of Jesus by Danish sculptor Bertel Thorvaldsen, located on the upper floor. The ramped walkway’s walls and the domed ceiling above the statue are painted with clouds, stars, planets and other heavenly bodies. Make sure not to miss the beautiful paintings depicting biblical stories on the upper floor and on the lower, dioramas of some biblical scenes. There is also an area dedicated to the good works of the LDS Church.
The Church History Museum across the street from the North Visitor’s Center is worth spending some time in and houses collections of Latter-day Saint art and artifacts. There are both permanent exhibits and temporary ones offered throughout the year. I enjoyed the film which showed how Joseph Smith was directed to the golden tablets, from which he translated the Book of Mormon, by the angel Moroni. You can also see a replica of the golden tablets which give you an idea of their size and weight.
If you are interested in the historical records of the LDS Church, the Church History Library is located near the museum. Admission to the library is complimentary and patrons can access a large collection of books, manuscripts and photographs. Though I did not take the time to enter, it was explained that tours are given by senior missionaries and visitors can view a video which explains the mission and purpose of the Library. Next door to the museum is the Family History Library which is where many come to find information about their ancestors. Founded in 1894, records and genealogical data for over three billion deceased ancestors from around the globe are available with assistance from research specialists and trained volunteers.
Next on my agenda was the Conference Center, a relatively new structure, completed in 2000. The center has a capacity of over 21,000 and is used for the LDS Church’s general conferences, concerts and other cultural events. What I had come to see, however, was the rooftop garden that I had heard about from other visitors. Escorted by a sister missionary, I was overwhelmed by what we found!
You can also grab a bite to eat next door at the Lion House, if you’ve arranged a catered event. The house, built in in 1856, was the former home of Brigham Young, the second president of The LDS Church and the first governor of the state of Utah. Named for the lion statue located over the front entryway, the Lion House is decorated with beautiful antique furniture and has the capacity to host a variety of events.
As the day was drawing to a close, I noticed that long lines had formed in the middle of the square. Apparently, on Thursday nights, the Mormon Tabernacle Choir holds practice sessions. As tempting as that was, it was the end of a long day, I was in need of nourishment and the lines seemed endless!
The Gilgal Sculpture Garden was the brainchild of LDS businessman Thomas Battersby Child, Jr, who also designed and created the space in the mid-twentieth century. The garden contains twelve original sculptures and over seventy stones engraved with scriptures, poems and literary texts all associated with the Mormon religion.
Over the years, many renovations have been completed, including the addition of a new altar, movement of the bishop’s chair, the addition of a separate chapel for the Blessed Sacrament and a more ample baptismal font. Though the baptismal font was dry, I was able to visit the new chapel in which the casket of the Lawrence Scanlan, was placed, as per his request. On top of the casket is a reliquary containing a small piece of Saint Mary Madeline making the Cathedral one of only two in the world to contain a first class relic of the saint that the Cathedral is named for.
Masses are said in both English and Spanish many times a week and it is my understanding that tickets for the choral concerts are a hot commodity. The Cathedral, home to the only co-educational Catholic Choir School in the United States (established in 1996), has over 350 students from Pre-Kindergarten through Eighth Grade. Performing over 9,000 hours every year in the Cathedral as well as concert series, the choristers take part in tours throughout the world in addition, to singing regularly with local arts organizations, including the Utah Symphony and The Morman Tabernacle Choir.
Years ago, I visited Parque Güell and wandered around for hours without paying to enter. Perusing the website, I noticed that admission was now being charged, seemingly to limit the large number of visitors to the park at one time. Purchasing a timed admission, I jumped on the bus and headed toward the park.
Quickly making my way to the Monumental Zone area, I was able to enter on the terrace level, however, due to construction, the famous mosaic bench was partially closed. Still, elbowing my way through the crowded area, I was able to sit for a few minutes and enjoy the beautiful architectural element. The stairway with the Gaudí dragon fountain was also filled with visitors, each hoping to capture a picture with the iconic piece of sculpture. The two buildings flanking the entrance, each with unusual pinnacles and fantastically shaped roofs give the impression of gingerbread houses and one offers a permanent exhibition of the Barcelona City History Museum which focuses on the building itself, the park and the city.
Parque Güell is truly a place of tranquility, yet, fascination. As you walk through the lush gardens, you can almost imagine yourself to be in a fantastical dream. Take your time to enjoy each area of the park and if you see one of the many musical performers that spend time entertaining visitors, stop and relish in their music. The acoustics in some of the spaces are amazing! Also, don’t forget to make your way to the park’s highest point, marked with a large cross, for a phenomenal view of the city with both the Sagrada Familia and the Montjuic area visible in the distance. Lastly, make sure to keep your eyes open for the amazing wildlife that makes the park their home. Scour the trees for a variety of birds, most notably, non-native parrots and short-toed eagles, that reside in the area.
The Zappeion’s construction was started in 1874 and designed by Danish architect Theophil Hansen. Opened on October 20, 1888, it’s main purpose was to serve as building for the Olympic games, first acting as a venue for the fencing competitions, during the 1896 Summer Olympics. Later, the building was used as the Olympic Village (1906) and then served as the first host for the organizing committee (ATHOC) for the 2004 Olympic Games from 1998 to 1999. It also served as the press center during the 2004 games.
Just outside the Zappeion, be sure to look for the statue of Evangelos Zappas. Buried underneath this statue is his head. There are approximately 70 other statues and works of art in the gardens immediately surrounding the Zappeion, including statues of Lord Byron and the Zappas cousins, who funded the construction of the building.
After walking around the building and through its own park, I finally entered the Athen’s National Garden, a peaceful oasis within the hustle and bustle of the ancient city.
While exploring the gardens near the Vasilissis Sophias Avenue entrance make sure to look for the remains of the Roman floor. Uncovered during nineteenth century excavations at a depth of one meter, the well-preserved floor belonged to a the courtyard of a Roman villa.
Other attractions within the gardens are a conservatory, where plants are cultivated before being planted in the garden, a children’s library and a small cafe where you can grab a drink or snack and refresh in the green surroundings. The entrance is located on Irodou Attikou Street. There is also a library containing two reading rooms, a fairy tale room, a music room and a film room. The library’s collections boasts 6,000 publications.