island – Page 3 – Snapping The Globe

Santorini South, Part Two

The day was perfect.

Blue skies and amazing views were everywhere.

Heading further south on the well-maintained roads of Santorini, we continued on our journey to see what the scenic island would offer up to us.

After gazing out over Caldera Beach, we headed to the prehistoric town of Akrotiri. An ancient Minoan Bronze Age settlement, it was destroyed by a severe earthquakes and eventually a volcanic eruption at the last quarter of the 17th century B.C. Much like Pompeii in Italy, volcanic materials covered the town, protecting them for the town’s resurgence in later years. Since I had never been to Pompeii (something high on my bucket list), I was excited to see this well-preserved archaeological site and understand what I might see when I finally made my way to the Italian ruins.

The settlement, however, is protected by a bioclimatic roof and very different from pictures I had seen of Pompeii. After paying our entrance fee, we made our way around well-marked site, navigable by walkways suspended above the archaeological remains.

There were many important buildings that were mostly intact, including multi-storied houses, a few containing well-preserved frescoes, pottery and precious stone and bronze objects. Most of the important pieces that have been recovered, however, are now on display in the Museum of Prehistoric Thera.

After our visit was complete, we had planned to have lunch nearby and make our way to the adjacent Red Beach. So many cars and pedestrians were entering the parking area, however, we decided to alter our plans. Driving out past the modern-day village of Akrotiri, with its picturesque alleys, blue domed churches and traditional houses, we found a lovely restaurant, The Good Heart, located along the highway, to have a quick bite. Greeted warmly, we ate our lunch and bought some delicious snacks at their adjacent store.

Once our lunch and shopping was complete, we continued down to the end of the highway, stopping a couple of times to admire the continually beckoning caldera.

Our destination was the Akrotiri Lighthouse and we soon arrived, luckily securing a parking spot in the small lot. The well-known lighthouse is considered one of the best and most beautiful lighthouses in the Greek Isles.

A whitewashed structure, the lighthouse stands high on the cliff above the sea. Manufactured by a French company is 1892, it was one of the first lighthouses in the country and stands on a popular spot for tourists to enjoy the views and for locals to spend their evenings enjoying the cool breezes and spectacular sunsets.

Finally, heading back from the way we had just come, we decided that we had conquered most of the the southern sites of Santorini, but now needed to enjoy a bit of beach time. Heading down a small, rocky road toward the southern coast, we soon arrived at the Akro Beach Club.

Taking the steep stairs down the side of the cliff, we found ourselves at one of the three picturesque beaches that line the coast. Red, White and Black Beaches occupy methodical positions that can be reached by car in two of the instances (Red and Black) and by water taxi. Though we later learned that the water taxi would have been a cool alternative for us to see all three beaches, we were anxious to grab some beach chairs, beer and soak up some sun.

The beach was black, as its name suggests and a bit rocky. Thankfully, we had brought water shoes, making it much less difficult to make it down to the water’s edge. The water, however, was a bit cold for me!

The ambiance was amazing and we stayed much longer than we had anticipated, enjoying the sound of the waves, passing boats and warm weather. The beach was uncrowded and passengers from the water taxi came and went. More importantly, the beer was cold and refreshing!

As the day drew to a close, we finally made our way up the steep road…

To another beautiful sunset.

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Akrotiri

http://odysseus.culture.gr/h/3/eh351.jsp?obj_id=2410
Address: Thera 847 00, Greece
Hours: November 1-March 31, 0800-1500, Tuesday through Sunday. Closed Monday. April 15-October 31, 0800-2000, daily.
Admission: Full, €12, Reduded, €6. Special package 4-day ticket is for Archaelogical Sites and Museum in Thera Ancient Thera, Akrotiri, Archaeological Museum, Museum of Prehistoric Thera, Collection of Icons and Ecclesiastical Artefacts at Pyrgos. Free admission days, March 6, April 18, May 18, last weekend of September annually (European Heritage Days), National Holidays, October 28, every first Sunday from November 1 to March 31.
Getting There: By rental car, parking is available in adjacent lot, €4 or in Red Beach parking lot, €2. KTEL Santorini bus service to Akrotiri from Fira. Check out bus schedules at https://www.ktel-santorini.gr/index.php/en/.

Akrotiri Lighthouse

Address: Thera 847 00, Greece
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free

Black Beach

Address: Thera 847 00, Greece

Akro Beach Bar

https://www.akrosantorini.com/
Address: Akrotiri 847 00, Greece
Hours: 1000-2200, daily
Admission: free.
Beach chair/umbrella pairs, $30 first row, $20 second row, $15 last row. Menu item prices vary. Food/drink service located on beach and in restaurant. Locked safety boxes available at beach chairs.

Akrotiri Water Taxi

Journeys to all three beaches, 10€ from Akrotiri, near Red Beach.

So Swimmingly

Hotels with swim-up pools.

We have all seen the photos.

Wedding and travel magazine spreads showing beautiful couples wearing expensive jewelry, designer swimsuits and perfectly coiffed hair lounging around, looking at each other lovingly while hanging in their hotel room’s private pool.

Yeah, I was always sure that was for the rich and famous.

During spring break, my son and I were playing travel roulette. No set plans…we had a list of tropical destinations that we thought we might like to try to sit standby for (a perk of my airline job) and we were going to see where we ended up.

Punta Cana eventually won out and as I made my way down the jetway to my last-minute seat, I frantically scrolled on my phone through the list of resorts that had availability.

There were three that I was eyeing…

There was one we visited a few years ago; the cheapest, but one we had enjoyed for its lively staff, wide-spread beach and their rooms’ proximity to the beach.

There was another that I knew nothing about but my son had a friend staying there. It had excellent reviews and a decent price.

The third was the most expensive of the three (though most akin to number two). It was located two properties over from the first option and one property over from where we had stayed last August, so we were familiar with the area. Both my son and I had friends staying there, so while my son could spend time hanging with his friends, I would have others to have adult conversations and drinks with!

Checking the prices for the third option, I discovered that I could choose the cheapest of their rooms, however, since it was last minute, I could get a room with a swim-up pool for just a little more.

Being that it was my son’s senior year, I had just received a good bonus check and I just felt like pampering myself, I decided to go with option number three! I just hoped that it was worth it!

We arrived to dark skies, rain and no waiting transportation due to a mix-up with our booking. Finally, arranging a one-way transfer, we were exhausted as we made our way into the open air lobby of the Royalton Punta Cana Resort & Casino.

A short time later, we were being escorted to our room near the beach area of the resort. As we passed the rooms with swim-up pools facing the main pool area, I got my first look at what we had paid for. These people could watch the action of the main resort area, yet hang out in their own private space.

As I entered our room, I pulled open the curtains and glanced out at our own pool area, which faced the side of our resort and the resort next door. Well, we didn’t have a great view. No watching the action of the resort, but it was still exciting to have this amenity. With the miserable weather, however, I decided that I needed a nap more than a swim. Taking advantage of this perk would have to wait until the next day.

The next morning, I eagerly opened the curtain, ready for sunshine! What was this? Shadows? With the sun making its way across the sky, our pool was enshrouded in darkness. How on earth was I going to work on my tan?

As we walked to the main lobby for breakfast, I enviously spied on the guests lounging on their verandas, dipping themselves in their private pools. They had sun! I thought, “No wonder I got my room for such a steal…it’s on the shady side of the resort. ”

After stuffing ourselves with pastries and omelets, we decided to head to the beach, spending the remainder of the morning lounging under one of the resort’s thatched umbrellas and enjoying the azure waters that lapped it’s shores.

One of the perks of this resort is that although there were many restaurants that served lunch near the beach, we could utilize room service…for free! Using the ordering feature on our television, we could sit on our veranda and enjoy lunch in the privacy of our room.

This needing doing!

Heading back to our room and noticing that the shadows had changed with the movement of the sun, we ordered our meal and then opened the curtain. Can you believe it? Noon was the witching hour! The sun had crept slowly across the sky during the morning and now our private pool and veranda was filled with bright light!

After enjoying our lunch, we jumped into the pool, relishing in the coolness of the water. Though our pool was private, it was connecting to the others along the length of the building. Though we remained here for the remainder of the day, we were always alone. Not one of the rooms here had guests who swam outside or relaxed on their verandas!

Each day, we repeated the same pattern; hang at the beach during the mornings and enjoy the resort’s many amenities…mini-golf, lazy river, flowrider, restaurants, snack bars. Every afternoon, however, we retreated to our room to take advantage of our pool. What luxury!

And, no…we never saw anyone on the backside of the resort.

Sometimes my last minute plans don’t go so well. This one went swimmingly!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Royalton Punta Cana Resort & Casino

https://www.royaltonresorts.com/royalton-punta-cana?_ga=2.143406325.1717712777.1519133944-2036997616.1483655952
Address: Playa Arena Gorda, Carretera Macao, Punta Cana 23000, Dominican Republic

Inescapable

Clint Eastwood made it out.

But…that was just a movie.

In reality, during the twenty-nine years of operation, Alcatraz Federal Penitentiary held fast to its claim that it was inescapable. Thirty-six prisoners made fourteen escape attempts (two men tried twice). Of these escapees, twenty-three were caught alive, six were shot and killed during their attempt, two drowned and five were listed as missing and presumed drowned.

From 1934 until 1963, the isolated Alcatraz Island maintained a lighthouse, a military fortification, a military prison and a federal prison. Some of the most infamous criminals were housed here, including Al Capone, Robert Franklin Stroud (the “Birdman of Alcatraz”), George “Machine Gun” Kelly, Bumpy Johnson, Rafael Cancel Miranda, Mickey Cohen, Arthur R. “Doc” Barker and Alvin “Creepy” Karpis.

Today, Alcatraz Island is only home to thousands of nesting birds, the well-preserved prison and other buildings and can be visited via tours from the mainland.

It had been many years since I had visited the famous attraction and I was excited to return since I didn’t remember much about my former visit. Since tickets to visit Alcatraz usually sell out each day, once I arrived in San Francisco, my first order of business was to book the tour. Selecting an afternoon departure from Pier 33, I anticipated spending a couple of hours making our way through the site.

On the day of our tour, we were ushered on to the Alcatraz Cruises boat with hundreds of other guests and prepared for the fifteen minute cruise to the island. The boat’s flag fluttered in the wind and we watched the mainland grow smaller as Alcatraz grew larger.

Soon we were making our way across the gangway to the open space at the ranger’s station. A park ranger gave us an introduction to the history of the island and then we were free to meander. A short movie gave us a brief history of the prison and the island and as we walked around, we admired the buildings, many in decline, that made up the premises.

Heading into the Main Prison area, where we would collect our Cellhouse Audio Tour guide, we noted that this was the area where prisoners were readied to be introduced to their confinement. It was here that prisoners were given their uniforms and required to take a shower in one of the long, open-air shower stalls.

This was the start of life in Alcatraz.

Listening to the start of my audio tour, I walked into the main prison area. Here, rows and rows of small cubicles in Cell Blocks B and C, each with a toilet, sink and cot, were displayed before me, once the home to a large prison population. These small cells were only 5 feet by 9 feet wide and each housed one prisoner.

The audio tour, the highlight of an Alcatraz Prison visit, is narrated by the some of the ex-prisoners and the correctional officers and describes the life they lived here at Alcatraz. Knowing that some of these narrators are no longer with us lent to the eerie feeling of this extinct facility.

It was interesting to hear the stories of the attempted prison breaks and even see the dummy that was made to fool the guards into thinking that the prisoner was still asleep in his bed. Cell Block D, was also fascinating, because it was here that the most dangerous criminals were kept. Though these cells were a little more spacious, prisoners were confined twenty-four hours a day and only allowed one visit to the recreation yard per week…alone.

Yet, it was “The Hole” that captured my attention. When prisoners were not cooperative, they were confined in “The Hole”, a dark room, with no interaction with the general population. As I stood inside this cramped, darkened space, even with the door open, it was understandable that many of the prisoners were mentally affected by their time here.

Our audio tour guided us through the kitchen and dining areas, where the inmates consumed their meals (reportedly the best in the system) and even into the recreation yard where they were allowed to exercise in the cool, bay air each day.

Continuing on, we were guided through the library, where many prisoners sought escape through books and even some attempted to better themselves through self-education. The visitation area was nearby and a place where prisoners could enjoy a visit from a loved one, once a month, with approval from the warden. No physical touching was allowed and inmates were forbidden to discuss current events or relate anything concerning prison life. Conversations were conducted via intercom and monitored by a correctional officer. Not adhering to the rules would result in a loss of the visiting privileges as well as other entitlements.

During Alcatraz’s operating years, there were many civilians that resided on the island, including women and children, families of the correctional officers and the Warden, employed at Alcatraz. You can walk through the rooms that served as work areas for these employees and see some of the primary living areas that housed them and their families. These families enjoyed their own bowling alley, soda fountain shop and convenience store, though most conducted their larger shopping trips on the mainland, employing the use of the prison boat which made twelve scheduled runs to the Van Ness Street Pier each day.

Due to rising costs and a deteriorating facility, however, the decision was made to shut down the prison in 1963. Prisoners were transferred to other facilities throughout the United States and all civilians were required to vacate the premises.

In 1969, eighty-nine American Indians decided to venture out to the island to make Alcatraz their home during a nineteen month occupation and protest. The group, Indians of All Tribes, wanted all retired, abandoned or out-of-use federal land returned to the Native People, who once occupied it, and felt that Alcatraz met this definition. Though the occupation ended with no resolution, you can still see traces of their time here.

Stepping out of the rear of the prison into the bright sunshine, made me realize how confining prison life could be, even for those who worked there. The beautiful views, however, would make anyone realize that life here on Alcatraz had to be better than life in any other penitentiary system in the United States.

Catching our boat back to the mainland, we pulled away from the dock, heading out into the bay. Looking back at Alcatraz in the distance, I reflected on the stories of the attempted escapes. Though it was a beautiful, sunny day, it was quite cool on the water. Anyone thinking they could make their way in these chilly waters must have been quite desperate, yet thought that it could be done. Of the attempted escapes, there were five missing and presumed drowned.

Presumed drowned. Yes, possible.

But, perhaps they are still out there, enjoying freedom yet keeping their stories of their time in the historic Alcatraz close to the vest.

No one knows for sure.

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Alcatraz Island

https://www.nps.gov/alca/index.htm
https://www.alcatrazcruises.com/
Address: San Francisco, CA 94133
Hours: Varies according to tour selected
Admission: Early Bird Tour and Day Tour, $39.90 , Adult and Junior (12-17 years) $39.90, Child (ages 5-11), $24.40, Senior (62 years+), $37.65, Night Tour, Adults and Junior (12-17 years), $47.30, Child (ages 5-11), $28.00, Senior (62 years+), $44.00, Behind the Scenes Tour, Ages 13 and up only, Adult, $92.30, Junior (12-17 years) $88.25, Senior (62 years+), $86.00, Alcatraz and Angel Island Tour, Adult and Junior (12-17 years) $78.65,
Child (ages 5-11), $52.40, Senior (62 years+), $76.40

Tender Mercy

You’ve probably heard the term, “Tender Mercies” in some sort of capacity or another.

According to the LDS church, tender mercies is defined as very personal and individualized blessings, strength, protection, assurances, guidance, loving-kindnesses, consolation, support and spiritual gift which is received from Jesus Christ.

I think Norwegian cruise line should define it as “passengers at the mercy of their cruise line’s abhorrent tender operation”…we were definitely not feeling guidance, assurances, consolation or support.

Roatan, Honduras has been a destination on my “go to” list for some time. When we discovered it was part of our Christmas cruise itinerary, we were elated and planned to see as much of it as we could.

Looking through our destination handout the night before docking, I discovered that tender tickets were required for disembarkation. Never having had this experience, I inquired with Guest Services as to the appropriate location and then informed my husband that he would be in line before the ticket handout start time to ensure our early departure.

We were scheduled to dock around 7:30 am and we watched the coastline of Roatan come into view. With my husband having secured Group 2 tickets, we were excited that our day would begin early.

Roatan’s cruise port in Coxen Hole can normally handle two ships at their dock, with Carnival utilizing their own port, Mahogany Bay further up the coast. Apparently, part of the Coxen Hole dock was damaged a couple of months ago and one of Royal Caribbean’s larger ships needed the still-usable portion. So, where did that leave us? With no Honduran-run tender operation available, the Pearl’s lifeboats would have to suffice.

Each able to hold approximately 50-75 passengers and with a total of 2,394 passengers on board the Pearl…well, you do the math.

Three lifeboats were being utilized and those passenger with status and shore excursions were allowed to leave first. So, our Group 2 ticket wasn’t as great as I thought. That, in combination with rougher than normal ocean conditions, slowed down (and even stopped temporarily) the tendering tremendously. By 9:20, Group 1 was finally being called. It wasn’t until 10:10 that we were allowed to leave the ship, a very slow process.

Walking up the pier to the Town Center, we fought the crowds and the urge to take it all in. Having to be back for the last tender at 3:00 pm meant having to rush to do anything.

Making our way to the taxi staging area, we quickly made a deal with a driver to bring us out to West Bay, an area I knew had a nice beach.

Driving along the windy, narrow roads, our driver, Tino, gave us a brief history of the area. Noting the heavy traffic due to three ships being in port, we decided that we had to give ourselves ample time to get back to the boat at the appropriate time.

After about a 15 minute drive, we were pulling onto a small, narrow road. Passing a few rental cottages, we were not sure exactly where Tino was taking us. West Bay? Parking his van, he helped us out and guided us into a restaurant where we paid the owner $10 per person for chairs, umbrellas and the use of the facilities (showers and toilets).

Following the sound of waves and music, we stepped out of the restaurant onto the sand and looked around in wonder. A pristine arc of sand lined the water’s edge. Clear, turquoise water reflected the bright sunshine and I recognized some of the condominiums that I had researched previously when we had thought we might travel there.

With only three hours to enjoy these beautiful surroundings, my husband and I first headed up the beach. Stopping into one of the dive centers, we inquired about the accommodations and dive packages offered. Inspecting each of the resorts we passed, we made mental notes of where we might like to stay upon our return on a future vacation. We then headed down the beach, finding it more crowded than where we had made camp for the day. It was evident that this was a place where cruise ship passengers head for a day in the sun.

Heading back, we ordered a few drinks and stood in the water, enjoying the soft sand beneath our feet and the sun beating down on our heads, knowing it was a crisp 49 degrees back home.

Three hours goes by pretty fast when you are having fun.

Packing up our belongings, we headed inside to find Tino and begin the congested drive back to our ship.

Glad that we had given ourselves ample time, we sat in traffic just outside the port and then found the line for the tenders to be extremely lengthy. It was quite frustrating to watch the Royal Caribbean passengers sashay on board, whenever they felt like it. At least we had entertainment!

Finally on board and happily ensconced the pub eating fish and chips, we looked out of the picture windows at the shores of Roatan.

Sad that our day had started out slowly, we were happy to find that because of my diligence in getting in line for tender tickets early, we were the lucky ones to have had more time onshore. A great deal of passengers had not been aware that tender tickets were required (read your daily handouts!) and many more missed privately booked excursions (non-refundable). Some passengers in higher numbered groups were unable to get off of the boat until 2:00 pm, giving them only an hour to wander around the port!

So, what did we learn from our time in Roatan?

Read everything that the ship gives you…thankfully, I knew about the tender tickets.

Research your ports thoroughly…with a quick decision to make, I knew where to ask the driver to take us.

Book outside excursions cautiously…cruise ships take no responsibility for being unable to dock and will not refund you for missing a pre-paid excursion. They will, however, refund you for the cancellation of excursions booked through the ship.

Roatan, has a ton of things to offer besides beautiful beaches…we will be back to discover them all!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Norwegian Cruise Lines

https://www.ncl.com
Ship Name: Norwegian Pearl
Itinerary: 7 days, departing Tampa. Ports of call, Harvest Caye, Belize, Costa Maya, Mexico, Roatan, Honduras, Grand Cayman, Cayman Islands

I Belize in Santa Claus!

Christmas mornings are spent around the Christmas tree, sipping hot cocoa and watching the snow fall outside.

Right?

Not always.

How about Christmas morning lounging under a beach umbrella, drinking cold beer and watching zipliners flying overhead?

This is more my style!

For the second year in a row, we decided that we would spend our Christmas holidays on a cruise ship. While our itinerary had us cruising through the waters of the Gulf of Mexico on Christmas Eve, we would be awakened on Christmas morning by sunshine and views of the Belizean coastline from our balcony.

Norwegian Cruise Lines opened the port of Harvest Caye in November of 2016 which took four years and $50 million dollars to create. With such a huge investment, Norwegian has to be thrilled that it was voted the Best New Cruise Port in the Caribbean in 2017.

Not having done much research on what was available on the island, we decided that relaxation was in order for Christmas Day.

As our ship, the Norwegian Pearl, backed into position against the dock, we got our first glimpses from the back deck of the beautiful island dotted with beach umbrellas on the far side of the island and a lighthouse.

Disembarking from our ship, we made the long walk on the covered walkway to the island. Greeted by many locals at the Harvest Caye sign, wishing us a Feliz Navidad, we marveled at the beautiful, brightly colored buildings, home to many restaurants and shops. What is quite interesting is that all of these restaurants, amenities and shops are locally owned and all of the 400 staff members working on the island are locals.

Passing the excursions pavilion, which joins the marina, we took note of all of the guests lining up to travel to the mainland for the start of the many excursions offered…parasailing, exploring Mayan ruins, cave tubing.

Making our way to the beach, hundreds of bright blue beach chairs spread out before us beckoning for us to enjoy our Christmas Day…the perfect present! Finding seats, we spread out, eager to enjoy the Caribbean sunshine. Positioned in front of the lighthouse or Flight House, we watched countless zipliners fly over us and the bay 13,000 feet to the termination point at the other end of the beach.

The waters were a calm, emerald green and the 7-acre white, sandy beach made of man-made sand (made from crushed seashell), stretched out in an arc. We relaxed, enjoying the sunshine and a few buckets. So, after a few cold ones, it was time to venture out and find the restrooms.

Once I was out of the restroom, a path on the right caught my eye with its beautiful flowers growing on an arched trellis and I noticed what appeared to be a cage just beyond. Passing through the arch, I discovered a wildlife exhibit which houses many birds and animals indigenous to Belize. This area also includes a Blue Morpho butterfly house and the entire exhibit is free for all guests.

My curiosity peaked, I decided to continue my walk, admiring the many wooden carvings nestled in the foliage and along the pathways, while following the signs guiding me to the pool area. First, I encountered the kid’s splash pad, but the 15,000 square foot swimming pool was the happening place! The Caribbean music was pumping and the pool bar was packed with hundreds of guests enjoying themselves.

The pool area contained plenty of seating, some shady areas and tall palm trees. Bridges criss-crossed the water and on the far end, there was a zero entry area. There were several pool-facing cabanas available containing lounge chairs, couches, mini fridges, a personal concierge and private showers. There are also beachfront villas furnished much the same with the addition of air-conditioning, beach loungers, hammocks, and a golf cart for the day.

Continuing my exploration, I ventured into the commercial area which features shops selling chocolates, rum, jewelry, t-shirts, perfumes, handwoven items and paintings. Stopping at one of the small wagon kiosks, I made a deal with one of the vendors and walked away with a beautiful basket for my collection at home.

Returning to the beach area, I took a small detour near the lagoon which is the starting point for those wishing to kayak and paddleboard.

Finally, returning to my family, I found them wondering where I had disappeared to. Describing what I had found, they decided that it was time to check out the amazing pool, grab a bite to eat at one of the island’s eating establishments and check out one of the island’s four bars before heading back to the ship.

Having visited Belize a few years back, this was a much different experience from our time spent on Ambergris Caye. Though there were many similarities, both being islands along the Belizean coasts, this was a much different encounter. Of course, we were on a privately owned island on a cruise, however, we were also treated with a beautiful, sandy beach, something Ambergris Caye did not offer.

Honestly, I would return to either place, on a cruise to Harvest Caye or just on my own to Ambergris Caye. My true desire is to explore more of Belize’s islands and its mainland. As I always say…so much travel to do, so little time!

With a tropical climate all through the year, excellent facilities and excellent service. Harvest Caye is indeed one of Norwegian’s premier destinations! If cruising with Norwegian, check your itinerary to see if you will be putting into port at this beautiful location.

So, do we still believe in Santa Claus? You better Belize we do! I actually saw him walking around in board shorts on the beach!

Yes, I actually did…

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Norwegian Cruise Lines

https://www.ncl.com
https://www.ncl.com/harvest-caye
Ship Name: Norwegian Pearl
Itinerary: 7 days, departing Tampa. Ports of call, Harvest Caye, Belize, Costa Maya, Mexico, Roatan, Honduras, Grand Cayman, Cayman Islands

Broke-Down Buggies

As I get older and realize how much there is in the world to see, laying around on vacation, just doesn’t do it for me anymore.

Recently, I read an article written by a journalist who was sent to enjoy an all-inclusive resort. Having traveled all over the world, the writer was apprehensive about having nothing to do but eat, drink and work on his tan. In the end, he learned that his body needed to unwind and he loved the laziness of his days.

I wish that I could say that I reveled in laziness and walked away from my most recent trip to an all-inclusive resort feeling relaxed and revitalized. Truth is, I can’t sit still for that long…that’s just me.

I finished that book I had placed on the back burner and after losing thirty pounds, finally dared to wear a bikini and bronze up my stomach to match my legs. My husband hadn’t been able to accompany us and my teenage sons really didn’t want mom hanging around while they were trying to impress the ladies. What else was there to do?

Having spent a lot more money on two jacuzzi suites than I had planned, I originally told my boys that there wasn’t going to be any excursions away from the resort.

That vow lasted about two days.

Laying in my lounge chair, shaded by a broad blue umbrella, pina colada in hand, I perused the internet, attempting to find something that we could all enjoy that didn’t drain the last of my recent paycheck.

Dune buggies.

As we were driven from the airport to the resort, I had noticed a group of dune buggies crossing the road a few miles prior to our turnoff.

This could be fun.

Arriving at the departure point and signing the obligatory waivers, we were asked to step outside so that our buggies could be assigned. I was told that we were waiting for another family, however, we could leave promptly if we paid extra for a private tour…only fifty dollars…per buggy (we had two).

“No thanks.” We opted to wait.

Our wait was short lived and with the other participants’ arrival a few minutes later, we were strapping on helmets, buckling in, forming a single line and soaring down Dominican back roads.

One of the selling points of this tour was how muddy everyone was going to get…it was recommended that you not do the tour if you can’t give yourself to the idea of being covered in muck! They went on to elaborate on how refreshing the cave swim would be after the spattered adventure. I guess it hadn’t rained in a while, because the only mud puddles I saw were near the shower area at the starting point. The real problem was the dust. Bandannas or something to cover your nose and mouth was recommended (they even sell them if you forget), but what you really need are goggles. As a contact lens wearer, I spent most of the ride squinting as I tried to keep the dust of my eyes or wiping the tears flowing down my cheeks from the pain of the dust abrading my cornea under my lenses. Thankfully, I had relinquished all driving rights to my oldest son.

Driving along the country roads, through colorful villages, we passed grazing cows and children who gleefully ran along side our buggies. The roads were bumpy and narrow and we traveled together in succession. Finally, we pulled up next to a small hut and shut down our buggies. Here, we were educated on the production of cacao, coffee, tobacco and Mamajuana (a Dominican aphrodisiac elixir) and were given a choice to sample the coffee or hot chocolate. These products were available for sale as well as other Dominican handicrafts.

Once the presentation was complete, more driving ensued until we arrived at the part of the tour that promised a swim in a picturesque cave. A large grouping of buildings hawking food and souvenirs lined either side of the stairs to the cave and many buggies were parked here. By the different types of vehicles, it was quite evident that many different companies come to this location.

As we approached the stairway, we were taken aback by how many other people were trying to make their way to the cave. Finally reaching the entry to the small body of water, we noticed that people were being instructed to jump into the cool water and immediately make their way to the guide rope leading to the water’s exit.

That’s it.

No languishing in the water.

No swimming.

No enjoyment.

Get in. Get out.

Then, fight your way up the stairway and get ready to go.

Not really what was advertised.

I am guessing that they don’t make money while you are swimming…why swim when you can peruse the cheap souvenirs at Dominican Walmart or Dominican JCPenney?

Let’s just say, I’m glad I stayed out of the water and kept an eye on the boys’ belongings. That was really not worth getting wet.

Back to the roads. The longest stretch of our drive was before us, retracing our steps back to the road past the starting point. It was now our turn to hold up traffic and cross the highway on our way to Macao Beach. As disappointed as I was with the cave stop, this picturesque location made up for it. One of the last ‘resort free’ coastal stretches in Punta Cana, Macao Beach offers an idealistic shore with amber sands, coconut trees and beautiful, seaweed-free, blue water! This time, I was getting wet!

Placing our belongings behind a log, we waded into the azure waters and attempted to enjoy the brief stretch of time allotted for this stop. Hard to do…there were so many people on the beach, we had to keep a close eye on our end of the log so as no one attempted to walk away with our stuff.

Finally, noticing our guide’s summons, we reluctantly toweled off and jumped back into our buggies. Crossing the highway once again, we made our way back to the companies headquarters.

Instead of immediately jumping into the safari-style truck which was to take us back to our resorts, we were herded to a small area in order to view pictures that were taken during our ordeal. I had noticed someone taking photos a couple of times during our tour, yet, apparently, everyone else had “gotten the memo” about the photographer. There were only a couple of shots of me and my boys, yet there were countless images of other families posed at the cave, the beach, holding parrots…where were the parrots? I even heard another family negotiated the $50 price tag, yet, when I pointed out that we were only featured twice, never briefed on the photo opportunities and I would pay $20, I was rudely shut down.

Time to go.

While it was nice to be able to enjoy a different aspect of Punta Cana, there are many other companies which offer Buggy adventures. Our dune buggies were in poor working order, seatbelts not connected, bald tires and buggies being hot-wired in order to start them. While parked at the cave location, I was able to inspect other company’s vehicles and while in short supply, there were others in much better condition. Still, while I was happy to venture out from our resort for a while, I would think twice about partaking in this type of adventure.

Take my advice. Go ziplining, book a tour to Santo Domingo or take a cab to Macao Beach.

You will be much safer.

Next time, I while reading my book under my umbrella at my all-inclusive resort, I may have to remind myself about Buggies Extreme…only then might I truly appreciate laziness and relaxation!

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No contact Information will be provided as I do not want to promote this business. Thank you.

Welcome To The Jungle

Live oaks, alligators, birds and buddhas.

In Louisiana, you can find live oaks, birds and alligators almost anywhere…but a buddha?

Avery Island, the birthplace of Tabasco® pepper sauce, is one of five “islands” rising above south Louisiana’s flat coastal marshes. Owned over the past 180 years by the Marsh, Avery and McIlhenny families, the island’s 2,200 acres is covered in lush subtropical vegetation and majestic live oak trees covered in Spanish moss. What’s underneath, however, is what makes it fascinating…a deposit of solid rock salt thought to be deeper than Mount Everest’s height.

Since, tourists can’t visit the salt mine, they should be contented to visit the natural spectacular that lies above, Jungle Gardens.

After our tour of the Tabasco® Factory, we made the short trip to Jungle Gardens, just down the road. Although it’s been said by many foreign visitors to the island that they are shocked that more people do not walk around the premises and prefer to drive…maybe its because locals know how exhausting the extreme humidity can be on hot days. Though it was not so hot and humid on the day we visited, we opted to drive the four and half mile route and enjoy the beauty of the gardens at designated stops.

A tour can be accessed on your cellphone (in either English or French) and you can learn about the many stunning attractions within the garden’s boundaries.

First on the list, the live oaks. When I think of where I grew up, this is what I remember…the centuries old trees with limbs so large and heavy that they sometimes rest on the ground and are covered in Spanish moss and resurrection ferns. Hundreds of live oaks were planted on the island from 1860 to the 1920s and line the roadways, cover the property and provide shelter for picnickers and those seeking sanctuary from the scorching Louisiana sun. One of the most significant in the gardens is the Cleveland Oak, named for Grover Cleveland, the two-term U.S. President who was a friend of Joe Jefferson. Jefferson was the actor of Rip Van Winkle fame, who owned nearby Jefferson Island. After two trips to Louisiana, President Cleveland received the honor of having two oaks named after him, one on Jefferson Island and one one Avery Island…after the President apparently hugged both trees. The tree in Jungle Gardens is about 23 feet in circumference and over 300 years old.

Another famous tree, not far from the Cleveland Oak, is the Survey Tree. This tree (also called Witness Tree) was used by surveyor, Thomas Orme in 1810, when measuring the Elizabeth Hayes Tract, as point “D”. This tract was the first land purchase by John Marsh, whose descendants still own Avery Island today. This Survey Tree and a live oak, which was designated point “A” are the oldest surviving witness trees in Louisiana.

Next on the tour is Bayou Petite Anse, the waterway which runs around the west side of Avery Island and Jungle Gardens. The bayou connects to Vermilion Bay and eventually the Gulf of Mexico. Because it contains both fresh and salt water, fishermen need to obtain both freshwater and saltwater licenses to fish in this bayou.

Now, the gardens are not a zoo, but rather a natural habitat for many species of birds and animals, including the alligator. Because it is not a zoo, getting up close and personal with the alligators is possible, yet not really advised as alligators can move extremely fast. E.A. McIlhenny was the first to note the unique ways in which alligators build their nests as well as other behaviors. McIlhenny published “The Alligator’s Life History” in 1935 and to this date, it is still regarded by many herpetologists as the most accurate study of alligator behavior in the wild. A copy of the book can be purchased in the gift shop and while there, make sure to check out the preserved body of Monsurat, the largest alligator ever taken on the island (18 feet, three inches long). The best viewing area to see these sometimes massive creatures is in the Venetian Garden.

Stop number four on the tour is the Ward Boathouse which housed the 70 foot luxury motorboat of Charles Willis Ward, a friend of E.A. McIlhenny, when he was at a hunting and fishing camp in Jungle Gardens. Together these men, both avid conservationists, bought 54,000 acres of coastal marshland to the southwest of Avery Island as a waterfowl refuge. In 1911, the men gave 13,000 acres of this land to the state of Louisiana, now known as the Ward-McIlhenny State Wildlife Refuge.

Moving on, we finally arrived at my favorite part of the Jungle Gardens…The Torii Gate and the Buddha. The gate and the Buddha seem to be at odds with the Louisiana setting, yet fit so well amidst the tranquility of the gardens. It is possible that E.A. McIlhenny’s friends, Robert M. Youngs and Ernest B Tracy, knew exactly what his oasis needed when they gifted the magnificent Buddha statue to him in 1936. The Buddha was built for the Shonfa temple in northeast Peking when it was looted by a rebel General and sent to New York to be sold. Found in a warehouse Youngs and Tracy, they knew exactly where its new home should be. McIlhenny immediately decided on the location and began building a garden, temple and lagoon with arched stone bridge, filling the area with beautiful and rare Asian plants and tall Chinese bamboo. The serene setting is one to relish and you should spend adequate time here enjoying the peaceful atmosphere. Also, if you are lucky, you may encounter local Buddhists conducting ceremonies at various times during the year, most notably on Buddha’s birthday.

Once you’ve noticed the beautiful Chinese bamboo near the Buddha temple, you will notice that it grows everywhere in the gardens. In fact, Jungle Gardens houses one of the oldest timber bamboo groves in American. When E.A. McIlhenny decided to plant bamboo, it was with the idea that both the timber and edible shoots would be beneficial to the Louisiana economy and more than sixty-four species and varieties were introduced. Keep an eye out for the most interesting of the varieties still in existence, including the “Robert Young” near the Camillia Study Garden, the large, timber-type “Moso” and “Henon” bamboo near Bird City and a small patch of “Meyerii” bamboo located near the old Jungle Gardens entrance gate.

Continuing our journey, we came to the Wisteria Arch. Though not yet in bloom, you can envision how lovely it must be to drive through a purple tunnel and breathe in its bouquet. Though about a hundred yards shorter now than it once was, getting to see this blooming marvel is a must…and even if it is not in bloom, you can only imagine.

Just near the Wisteria Arch is my other favorite part of the gardens, Bird City. Set a ways down from the road is a lofty Observation Tower that awaits visitors who can gaze upon the rookery where snowy egrets reside and come to nest every spring. This pattern has continued since 1895 when McIlhenny, then a young man, decided to create a nesting ground for egrets over water where they prefer to nest. Hand raising eight Snowy Egrets, he finally freed them for the migration south. The next spring, six of the eight returned, pairing off and hatching eight more chicks. Sixteen years later one hundred thousand birds had returned reviving the dwindling Louisiana egret population. This is a haven for bird watchers as many other birds frequent the area, including herons, teal, ducks, coots and other non-wading birds. It is truly a spectacle to see the mass of white flitting to a fro on the bamboo raised platforms as well as the other animals that make their home here. As you take a walk down the path to the water’s edge, keep a look out for turtles and alligators basking themselves in the sun’s warmth.

For the dendrophiles out there, a treat awaits you on the path to the Observation Tower… .a Queer Tibertan Evergreen. This tree looks similar to a cypress tree and is one of the sole survivors of the Coal Age, having been found in a remote Tibetan valley.

Just before reaching Bird City is the Palm Gardens. McIlhenny was facinated with palms and cacti and discovered that they grew well in this particular site, an old mining sand pit. Here you can discover Sago palms, Chinese Tung Oil trees as well as ferns and bamboo.

Another uniquely cultivated area is the Sunken Gardens. Once an engineering marvel, this area was designed to slow the rush of rainwater from the frequent thunderstorms that plague the area. This space was designed to not only aid in the drainage process but also act as a peaceful, shady area with access to the old nursery. Though I took a quick walk around this area, it seems that it has fallen into a bit of disrepair. Apparently, you can still stroll through the site of the old nursery to see camellias and azaleas, however, it was late in my visit and I opted out of that decision.

Just before the Sunken Gardens lies the former home of Edward Avery McIlhenny. Returning to Avery Island in 1898 and taking over the family business, he built this house near Bird City. The home was burned to the ground in 1925 and quickly rebuilt. The home is not open to the public and appears to be under some sort of construction. Maybe a home tour in the future?

I have been to many touristy spots throughout the world and seem many famous landmarks. Yet…there’s nothing like a warm spring day in Louisiana enjoying the flora and fauna that I grew up with. As children, we don’t seem to appreciate all that is around us, taking it for granted. I guess it takes being away for awhile and seeing it again with fresh eyes.

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Jungle Gardens

http://www.junglegardens.org/
Address: Hwy. 329, Avery Island, LA 70513
Hours: 0900-1700, daily
Admission: Self-guided tour, Adults, $8.00, Children, $5.00. Self-guided tour+Tabasco® Factory Tour combo, Adult, $12.50, Child, ages 5-12, $9.50, Senior, $11.25.
Getting There: Take US 90 Exit 128A on LA 14 toward New Iberia for approximately three quarters of a mile. Take a right on LA 329, and it is 7 miles to Avery Island’s TABASCO® and Jungle Gardens.

The Amber Coast

In the northwestern part of the Dominican Republic, between Cofresi and Cabarate lies the “Amber Coast”.

The Amber Coast was discovered by Christopher Columbus, and is the site of one of the first forts in the Americas, Ferte de San Felipe. The popular beach town, Puerto Plata, offers many resorts and a look into its Spanish colonial past with beautiful architecture, museums and a host of landmarks.

Amber Cove Cruise Center, a short distance northwest of Puerto Plata, was opened in October of 2015, to much fanfare, as cruise ships had not visited the area in almost thirty years.

Sailing into the Bay of Maimon, early in the rainy morning, we had our first glimpse of the port with its overwater cabanas, pristine shopping area and resort-style pool complete with waterslides and lazy river. The port also offers a great transportation hub in which visitors can access rental cars and taxi services.

Our original plan had been to enjoy the facilities offered at Amber Cove, but since we had missed out on our day in St. Kitts, we decided to book an excursion to explore another part of the island.

Meeting our guide, Daniel, we were soon on our way to the province of Montecristi, to the small seaside community of Estero Hondo, home to the country’s Marine Mammal Sanctuary. The sanctuary, a natural refuge for the endangered manatee, is about a two hour drive from Amber Cove along narrow, winding roads, through vibrant and colorful communities.

After our arrival, we were divided into two groups, one to kayak through the marine preserve and the other to head to the observation area. Part of the first kayaking group, we paddled through the estuary, admiring the large numbers of aquatic birds crossing the tranquil waters. We all hoped to have a close encounter with the manatees that live in the area since there are very few places in the Caribbean where one can see the manatee in its natural habitat.

After a bit of paddling, we entered a larger part of the estuary where and we noticed the other members of our group on the observation deck on the shore. Scanning the mirror-like surface constantly, we were disappointed to only see a manatee minimally break the surface twice. Extremely difficult it was from our vantage point at the waters surface, it was a bit of a letdown to not have seen more of the amazing, docile creatures from a closer distance.

While paddling back, we admired the clams attached to the mangrove trees and as we neared the seashore, we dragged our kayaks onto a beach across the channel. Walking along with our guides, we marveled at the large number of seashells resting on the rough sands.

Our guides motioned for us to follow as they waded into the shallow waters to cross over to a small island. As we neared the island, the waters were only ankle deep and we proceeded to enter a grove of trees teeming with squawking birds overhead. The waters were littered with the remnants of hatched eggshells, feathers and even a small bird that had obviously fallen from his perch and drowned. It was perilous walking through the area with so many birds overhead and much to his dismay, one of the members of our group was bombed! Yes…poop!

Quickly making our way out of the grove to the other side, we found ourselves in a protected area; waves crashing on the other side of the reef and calm waters surrounding us in clear, swimming pools. Languishing in the beautiful, clear waters, we rested a moment and admired the view.

Checking our watches, we realized that as much as we would have loved to hang out in this stunning oasis, it was time to head back and make the switch with the other group.

Shedding our lifejackets, we followed Daniel to the Visitor’s Center. An orientation with a ranger from the sanctuary informed us of the lives of manatees and how this particular group of about forty, is one of the largest populations of this species that exists on the island and possibly throughout the Caribbean.

We then boarded an open-air safari truck and headed down the overgrown road to the observation platform. From the high vantage point, we soon saw the water’s surface breaking. Though the manatees did not stay at the surface for very long and we mostly saw only their backs or noses as they came up for air, we did see many during our time observing the water’s surface.

Soon it was time to head back to the Visitor’s Center for a quick bite to eat and time to make the lengthy drive back to the cruise ship port.

A little later than we had anticipated our arrival, there was no time to check out the shops and we had to make a mad dash back to the boat for our departure.

As we sailed away, we watched the port and the Bay of Maimon disappear. Thinking of my love of architecture, I was a little wistful that I had not seen more of the area and nearby Puerto Plata. Though we have been to Dominican Republic before, it seems that the northern coast may offer a bit more charm than the packed resorts of Punta Cana. And, after speaking with our tour guide, it seems that there are many other outdoor activities (Damajuaga Fall, ATV tours, cave snorkeling) we would have enjoyed.

Oh, well, there only so much you can squeeze in to a seven hour day in port. Sigh.

Amber Coast…I’ll be back.

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Estero Hondo Marine Mammel Sanctuary

Runner’s Adventures https://www.runnersadventures.com/
To visit Estero Hondo, visitors may book an organized tour (see above link) or drive on their own. From Amber Cove, take the road to Montecristi, pass the village of Villa Elisa, until you reach Punta Rucia. The protected area is in this vicinity.

A Place To Give Thanks

Long ago, dignitaries walked up the cobblestone street to the San Juan Cathedral to give thanks for their safe journey.

After two days at sea and weary of being confined to the boat, it felt as if I, too, should head over to San Juan Cathedral to give thanks for finally making it into port!

Catedral San Juan Bautista, or San Juan Cathedral as it is more commonly known, is Puerto Rico’s grandest religious building and certainly one of its most important, being the seat of the Archdiocese of Puerto Rico. The second oldest church in the Western Hemisphere, it is also the oldest church on U.S. soil and one of the oldest buildings in Puerto Rico.

The original cathedral, built in 1521, while the island was under Spanish rule, was a more simple structure constructed from wood with a thatched roof. Unable to withstand strong winds, it was demolished by a hurricane and reconstructed in 1540, though what you see today, has evolved over time, especially its Gothic facade, added in the 1800s.

As I entered the cathedral, what I first noticed was that even though it is still quite palatial in appearance, with its ornately detailed ceiling, the cathedral lacked opulence. Numerous robberies and pillaging over the years of its existence have stripped the church of most of its valuable assets, but some of the original statues and stained glass windows remain.

As you make your way around the church, however, there are two famous reliquaries to take note of. The tomb of Juan Ponce de León, the first governor of Puerto Rico, most well known for his search for the Fountain of Youth, has been laid to rest in the cathedral. Though, the conquistador’s remains were originally interred at the Iglesia de San José, his family’s place of worship, he was moved here in 1912, to commemorate the 400 year anniversary of evangelization. The white marble tomb, created by Spanish sculptor Miguel Blay, near the church’s transept, is not to be missed.

At the rear of the church, just right of the entrance, look for the glass box containing a most distinguished and long-deceased figure…St. Pius. St. Pius was was one of the first martyrs killed for his faith during the Roman persecution. In 1848, Pope Pius VII granted Puerto Rican Bishop Mariano Rodríguez de Olmedo y Valle permission to select a relic from the catacombs in Rome. Though the relic made a detour to Barcelona to be restored, it finally made its way back to San Juan Bautista in 1868. Displayed in a glass case, a wax sculpture of the saint’s body encases his skull. The back of the skull is exposed to show its authenticity. If you look into the mouth, you can see his real teeth.

Another interesting shrine within the cathedral is dedicated to Blessed Carlos Manuel Rodriguez Santiago, the first Puerto Rican and the first Caribbean-born layperson to be beatified.

While visiting Old San Juan, make sure to make your way down to the Plazuela de Las Monjas and stop into this historic church. Take a pew and give thanks for your safe voyage to the island in memory of those who have come before you.

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Catedral San Juan Bautista

http://catedral-san-juan-bautista.business.site/
Address: 151 Calle del Cristo, San Juan, 00902, Puerto Rico
Hours: Open daily, 0800-1600 (Sunday, until 1400). Mass schedule, Saturday, 1900, Sunday, 0900 and 1100, Weekdays, 0725 and 1215.
Admission: free

By Land and By Sea

Two forts, one city.

My favorite thing about San Juan is its two forts, Castillo San Felipe del Morro and San Cristobal. Having visited both two times before, you would think that I would look to find something else. Well, there are lots of other things in Old Town, but I never tire of these old structures…truly a photographers dream!

Castillo San Felipe del Morro and San Cristóbal, are two forts that were built to protect the city, the former from attacks from the sea and the latter, attacks from land.

Exiting our cruise ship, the first thing on my agenda was San Cristóbal. Near the port, I knew that it was a short walk that would take me through Plaza de Colón and to the gates of the fort. Starting early, to make the most of our short time in San Juan, I could beat the crowds, photograph to my hearts content, still stroll the city and also see El Morro.

Castillo San Cristóbal, a San Juan Historic Site, stands guard at the eastern gate, the land entrance, to the walled city of Old San Juan. After 149 years of construction, the fort was completed in 1783, although modifications were made throughout next century. The fortification covered about 27 acres of land, sitting on a hill originally known as the Cerro de la Horca, and basically wrapped around the city of San Juan allowing entry through its heavily guarded double gates.

Although the largest fortification built by the Spanish in the New World stood ready to defend the city against land attacks, not much action was seen. A land attack by the British in 1797 (under the command of Sir Ralph Abercrombe) did not make it as far as the fort and until 1898, the only dilemma was a 24 hour mutiny by soldiers living inside the fort against the Spanish crown. Finally, in 1898, the first shots of the Spanish-American War were fired when Puerto Rico was under military attack from U.S. Navy warships. Though the Spanish military attempted to retaliate, its old cannons and the fort could not withstand the assault, surrendering within 24 hours. Only six months later, Puerto Rico became a territory of the United States.

After Puerto Rico’s acquisition, the United States maintained an active military base at the fort with the additions of concrete pillboxes and an underground bunker control center during World War II. In 1961, once the U.S. Army vacated the premises, the U.S. National Park Service gained control and San Cristobal and El Morro were designated as museums and both were also declared as World Heritage Sites by the United Nations.

Over the years, with the city’s growth, part of San Cristóbal and a large segment of the city wall was was demolished to allow for flow of traffic in and out of the city.

The fort has two entrances, one off of Norzagaray Street and one off of Munoz Rivera Avenue. Since I was coming from the cruise ship terminal, I entered from the latter, however, the former is much more dramatic and one used by those coming from El Morro along the route near the water. If you choose to enter from Munoz Rivera, make sure to exit from other entrance to admire its sweeping ramp and grand appearance.

There are many things to see within the fort that can be observed with or without a guide. Three popular tours offered include, The Tunnels Tour which offer treks through the tunnels of the fort and include historical information about these hidden defenses, The Outworks Tour, which brings you to the outworks to see the land defenses and the The Lantern Light Tour, offered twice a week, which informs of soldier’s lives within the fort. In addition, every hour on the hour, free 20-30 minute Daily Orientation Talks are led by park rangers which explain life in the fort.

Since I had opted not to participate in one of the daily walks or tours, I was on my own with my map, looking forward to seeing all of the things that make San Cristóbal special.

Beginning with the short movie that is run continuously throughout the day, on the hour and the half hour (Spanish on the quarter and three quarters of the hour), I learned about the battles and the construction of the forts. Some of the relics from the forts times of battle are also on display in the Visitor Center.

Continuing through the long tunnel, I then found myself in the heart of the fort. There are so many passageways to explore, it is quite a bit difficult to determine, at times, which way to go. Some of the main items you want to make sure you see are:

Tunnel Systems: There are many tunnels to explore throughout the fort, one in particular, leading to the dungeon.

Cisterns: These extremely large cisterns were used for the transport of water during the times of the Spanish Colony and also used as bomb shelters during World War II.

Santa Barbara Chapel: Located in the central plaza, the chapel was built for the fort’s occupants to offer prayers and worship. Santa Barbara is the patron saint of persons in danger of fire and explosions and for this reason, the chapel was especially important to the cannoneers working with their dangerous weapons.

Military Uniforms: A display of uniforms of the soldiers gives insight into how uncomfortable these men must have been in the Caribbean heat. Made of wool and/or cotton, they were layered and included coats and tights.

Living Quarters: Beds, uniforms and dining tables are displayed to show how the troops’ quarters looked when the fort was in use. Make sure to check out the window shutters with graffiti etched into it…ships, dates and Spanish words.

Cannon Balls: There are many piles of cannonballs, weighing approximately 200 pounds each, on the upper level of the fort.

Flags: Check out the flags blowing in the breeze, the United States flag, the Puerto Rican flag and the Cross of Burgundy flag. The latter is a white flag with a red X and was t he Spanish military flag used from the 16th to 18th centuries to identify warships, forts and regiments of troops loyal to the king of Spain.

Sentry Boxes (Garitas): Located around the outer walls of the fort, the garitas offered a vantage point to watchmen who were guarding the shore. One particular garita, Garita del Diablo, located by itself close to the water in one of the oldest parts of the fort, is of particular interest to tourists. Legend tells that guards on duty in this garita, would disappear, taken away by the devel. Though stories must have run rampant during this time, it was more likely that the guards took advantage of the garitas remote location to escape. Though this sentry box is inaccessible to tourists, it can still be seen. There are many other garitas that can be entered and used for photo opportunities.

Outworks: To the east of the fort is a large stretch of lawn along with some buildings. This is the Outworks of the fort. Take a walk around the area to the the layers of defense (moats and walls) from a different perspective.

With so much to enjoy here, take your time to see all parts of San Cristobal. In addition to the photo opportunities it provides within its walls, its city and coastal views are incredible! I could see both the Carnival Sunshine and Royal Caribbean’s ships docked as well as other beautiful buildings throughout the city. Make sure to stand along the water side and take in the panoramic views of the coast from Old San Juan to Condado and beyond…truly spectacular!

After leaving San Cristóbal, it is approximately a one mile picturesque walk to Castillo San Felipe del Morro along Calle Norzagaray. Since I wanted to stroll through the center of town, doing some shopping along the way, I used Calle Fortaleza then, Calle Clara Lair to the Old City Gate. Walking along the outer walls on the Paseo de Morro, I walked along the water, looking out to El Canuelo, another smaller fortification on Goat Island, and made my way through the grounds of Castillo San Felipe del Morro to the front entrance.

Castillo San Felipe del Morro, or El Morro, as it is affectionately known, sits high atop a bluff overlooking the entrance to San Juan Bay. One of the largest fortifications built by the Spanish in the Caribbean, it took over 250 years to complete (1787) and was built to protect San Juan from invaders by sea.

After crossing the bridge to the fort, I showed my receipt from San Cristóbal and began my own tour of El Morro.

Castillo San Felipe del Morro, named in honor of King Philip II of Spain, lies on the northwestern-most point of the islet of Old San Juan. Construction of the citadel and its surrounding walls began in 1539, on orders of King Charles V of Spain, seeking a way to defend the port of San Juan by controlling entry to the harbor. The final design, drawn up in 1587, was based on Spanish military fortification principles of that time and similar structures can be seen throughout the Caribbean and Latin America in Cuba, Dominican Republic, Mexico, Panama, Guatemala and Honduras.

El Morro’s six levels rise from the sea to a height of 145 feet and offer an imposing sight to those arriving by sea. Nevertheless, El Morro suffered many attacks over the years, from the English in both 1595 and 1598 and from the Dutch in 1625. During the Spanish-American War, U.S. Navy ships fired upon El Morro, destroying the lighthouse. As mentioned above, the war ended with the Treaty of Paris, in which Spain ceded ownership of islands of Puerto Rico to the United States.

After the U.S. acquired Puerto Rico, many government buildings, including El Morro, became part of a large U.S. Army post, Fort Brooke. The large green space in front of El Morro was filled with a hospital, officer’s quarters, officer’s club and sports facilities. The U.S. Army also added a massive concrete bunker to the top of El Morro to serve as a Harbor Defense Fire Control Station, during World War II, to watch for German submarines.

In 1961, the fort became part of the National Park Service when the United States Army officially retired from the fort. Declared a World Heritage Site by the United Nations, the esplanade was cleared and restored giving citizens and visitors a wide open space to enjoy the sunny Caribbean days. Today you can see many people flying kites in the afternoon trade winds, a beautiful site with the castillo in the background.

While walking through the ancient fortification, make sure to take in the case mates, where countless arms were fired and the chapel, where no doubt many a soldier prayed for redemption and safety. As with San Cristóbal, check out the sentry boxes, or garitas scattered throughout the structures upper levels.

My favorite part, however, is the restored lighthouse. Sitting 180 feet above sea level, the lighthouse was completed in 1908. On the upper levels you can also see the same three flags flown on San Cristóbal…the U.S. flag, the Puerto Rican flag and the Cross of Burgundy flag.

Looking out at the massive grounds, the property spreads out along 70 acres, including the killing grounds and the esplanade. Nearby, you can see the nearby Cemetery of Santa Maria Magdalena de Pazzi.

An interesting fact about El Morro was that it was used as a film set in 1996 for the movie, Amistad, directed by Steven Spielberg, representing a fort in Sierra Leone, where slaves were auctioned in 1839. Interesting indeed, since slave labor was used to build El Morro.

Castillo San Felipe del Morro is a most amazing structure and if you arrive or depart on a cruise ship, you are in for a treat! In the afternoon sunlight, you glide right by the Old City Gate, Paseo de Morro and the regal El Morro perched high on its promontory. One of the most beautiful sights of Puerto Rico!

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Castillo San Cristobal

https://www.nps.gov/saju/index.htm
San Juan, 00901, Puerto Rico
Hours: Open daily, 0900-1800, closed Thanksgiving Day, Christmas Day and New Year’s Day
Admission: Adult, $7.00, Children under 15 years, free. Admission covers entrance to both forts.
Tunnels Tour: English, 1030, Wednesday, 1030 and 1430, Saturdays. Spanish, 1430, Wednesday and 1030 and 1230, Sundays. Approximately 1 hour, maximum group size, 15 people. Sign up at the front desk prior to the tour.
Outworks Tour: Spanish, Saturdays, 1430, English, Sundays, 1430.
Lantern Light Tour: Spanish, Sundays, 1800-1900, English, Tuesdays, 1800-1900. Ranger led.

Castillo San Felipe del Morro

https://www.nps.gov/saju/index.htm
Address: 501 Calle Norzagaray, San Juan, 00901, Puerto Rico
Hours: Open daily, 0900-1800, closed Thanksgiving Day, Christmas Day and New Year’s Day
Admission: Adult, $7.00, Children under 15 years, free. Admission covers entrance to both forts.
Tours: El Morro, Keystone to Protection of the Spanish Empire Tour, English, Saturdays, 1030 English and Sundays, 1430. Spanish, Saturdays, 1430 and Sundays, 1030. Short informational talks are available every day in the main plaza of Castillo San Felipe del Morro

Make sure to wear comfortable shoes when visiting either of the forts as some of the flooring can be uneven, slippery and offer lots of stairways and bring lots of water, especially on hot days as the heat is intensified by the stone.