Moscow’s Red Square is bigger, but this comes close!
My second stop on my visit to Padova was to the Prato della Valle, the 90,000 square meter elliptical square near the Basilica of St. Anthony. It is one of the largest squares in Europe and the largest in Italy.
Having looked up pictures of Padova some time ago, Prato della Valle is what I remembered most…the beautiful green island center, l’Isola Memmia, surrounded by a small canal bordered by two rings of 78 statues, representing famous citizens of Padua, such as popes, doges and others, like Galileo and accessed by four stone bridges. This was one of the things that I most wanted to see in Padova!
Prato della Valle, or Il Prato, as it is affectionately known by locals, was once a swampy area south of the city walls. In 1636, a group of Venetian and Veneto notables constructed an opulent theater as a venue for mock battles on horseback on this site. In 1767, the land, belonging to the monks of Santa Guistina, became the property of the city of Padua. In 1775, Andrea Memmo, whose statue is in the square, decided to reclaim and reconstruct the area. After excavations eventually uncovered an ancient Roman theater, of which remains were used to build the Basilica of St. Guistina, the city recognized the historical value and transformed the area into one for public use.
Palazzo Angeli
The square is surrounded by beautiful Italian buildings including the PalazzoAngeli, which was constructed in the 15th century and was the residence of Andrea Memmo, La Loggia Amulea, a neo-gothic style palace which was the seat of the fire brigade of Padua from 1906 to 1989 and the benedictine Abbey of SantaGiustina. Take the time to walk around the outer ring of Il Prato and inspect each of these historic buildings. There are also many dining establishments adjacent to the square.
Entrance to Luna Park
Prato della Valle is now a place that attracts a large number of visitors who use the area as a meeting point, a place to skate, stroll, study or chat until early hours of the morning. The city also hosts skating competitions on the wide asphalted ring that surrounds the square and many celebrations, complete with music and fireworks take place here. On Saturdays, a huge market occupies almost the entire square and in June, an annual theme park adjacent to the square attracts lots thousands of visitors. This theme park, called Luna Park, was operating at the time and although we were visiting on a Sunday, there was a small market set up on one side of Il Prato.
Market stall in Prato Della Valle
While visiting Padova and the Basilica of St. Anthony, take the time to wander over to the Prato della Valle…have a bite to eat and take in the beauty of this area. It’s not like anything you’ve ever seen! Trust me, it’s big!
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Getting There: http://www.trenitalia.com/ From Venice S. Lucia, Regional trains, €4,10, Other trains, €15,50-€17,00. From Venice Mestre, Regional trains, €3,35, Other trains, €15,50-€17,00.
Venice is one of my favorite cities to visit. A stunning and fascinating place, I adore wandering the narrow alleyways, crossing the canals and viewing the beautiful Venetian architecture.
On this trip, I decided that as much as I love Venice, it was time to venture farther out and see what other nearby cities had to offer. A couple of years ago, I had done a little research on the city of Padova (Padua), which claims to be the oldest city in Italy. My knowledge of Padova was limited to knowing that St. Anthony, the patron saint of finding things or lost people, died in this historical city. I was also aware that Padova is the setting for most of the action in Shakespeare’s TheTaming of the Shrew. After finding that Padova was only 14 minutes by train, I decided that the pilgrimage city was going to be my destination.
Departing from the Mestre train station, we arrived in Padova rather quickly since there are no stops in between the two cities. After disembarking, a quick stop at the Tourist Information Office, which is located in the train station, secured some maps and additional information.
Since the Basilica di Sant’Antonio is only open until 7:00 pm, we decided to head there first and then make our way through the city. In the interest of time, we opted to purchase tickets to ride the tram which would take us right to our destination. Outside of the station, to the right, there is a ticket machine and a ticket counter to purchase tram tickets. Our tickets were soon in hand and we headed across the street to the Stazione FS tram stop. The tram ride was rather quick and we soon arrived at the Santo tram stop. A short walk to the corner, a left turn and we were gazing upon the Basilica at the end of the street!
Millions of pilgrims travel to Padova every year, to visit the Basilica di Sant’Antonio (St. Anthony). It is here that St. Anthony’s grave is preserved. St. Anthony, originally from Lisbon, was proclaimed a Doctor of the Church in 1946 and was the second-most quickly canonized saint in the Catholic Church, after Peter of Verona.
The Basilica, known locally as “Il Santo”, offers a commanding view from its square with its Romanesque, Byzantine and Gothic influences. Many tourists linger in the area as it is such a holy site and it is recognized as one of the eight international shrines by the Holy See. Although it is visited by millions of people each year, it is not the main cathedral of the city, that being the Cathedral-Basilica of St. Mary of Padua.
Construction of the Basilica began shortly after the death of St. Anthony, in approximately 1232. Its completion in 1310 was followed by several modifications to the structure at the end of the 14th and mid 15th centuries. St. Anthony, although currently buried in the Basilica, had previously been interred, according to his will, in the small church of Santa Maria Mater Domini. This small church was incorporated into the present basilica as the Cappella della Madonna Mora (Chapel of the Dark Madonna).
Although I had been warned that we should expect a line to enter the Basilica, we encountered none. The Basilica is extensive in size, and although there a large number of visitors, while traversing the interior, it did not feel extremely crowded. Signs are posted at the entrance and within the Basilica prohibiting photography and inappropriate dress.
The interior of the church is quite beautiful. Many funerary monuments of noteworthy artistic value are housed in the Basilica. Attention should be given to each of the side chapels and their contents. The Chapel of the Holy Sacrament (Cappella del Santissimo Sacramento) on the right aisle, houses the tomb of the famous condottiero Gattamelata and his son Giannantonio along with a bronze tabernacle designed by Girolamo Campagna.
Several important images of the Madonna can also be found throughout the Basilica. One of extreme importance is the Madonna Mora, a statue of the Madonna with the Christ Child by the French sculptor Rainaldino di Puy-l’Evéque, dating from 1396. The name Madonna Mora refers to her olive skin and black hair. Another noteworthy piece located in the high altar area is a bronze Madonna with Child along with six statues of Saints by Donatello.
At the rear of the Basilica, is the ornate baroque Treasury Chapel with its resplendent ceiling depicting hundreds of angels amidst the clouds. In this chapel are housed the relics of St. Anthony, including his tongue, which was discovered to be intact in 1263 when his coffin was opened so that his remains could be placed under the high altar in the Basilica. The body of St. Anthony, can be visited in the Chapel of Madonna Mora in the middle of the nave. Expect to stand in line to visit both chapels.
Another part of the Basilica worth visiting is the peaceful cloisters in the Basilica. The Cloister of the Novices, constructed in the 15th century, offers a superb view of the Basilica, the Magnolia Cloister, offers a splendid magnolia tree planted in the middle of the nineteenth century cloister, the General’s Cloister, in which the rooms of the Ministers General overlook and the Cloister of Blessed Luca Belludi, whose present form dates back to the late fifteenth century. Adjacent to the Magnolia Cloister is a gift shop which offers rosaries, medals and many other religious items. Near the entrance to the cloisters, within the church, sits a priest who will bless your items.
The Basilica is one in Italy that cannot be missed for its religious, historical and architectural significance. Easily reached by public transport, it should be made a priority when visiting the Venice area.
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Hours: Weekdays, January 1-March 26, 0620-1845, March 27-October 29, 0620-1945, October 30-December 31, 0620-1845. Saturdays and Sundays, 0620-1945
Admission: no charge
Getting There: http://www.trenitalia.com/ From Venice S. Lucia, Regional trains, €4,10, Other trains, €15,50-€17,00. From Venice Mestre, Regional trains, €3,35, Other trains, €15,50-€17,00.
Many times I have visited Montmartre in Paris. On this particular sojourn, wandering through the winding streets up and around the hill, I learned something interesting. Van Gogh not only lived in Paris…he lived right there in Montmartre.
Walking on Rue Lepic, eating my gelato and searching for the Passer Through Walls sculpture, I happened to notice a sign on a building with a bright blue door. The sign, written in French, stated “In this house, Vincent Van Gogh, lived with his brother Theo from 1886 to 1888.”
At the end of February 1886, Vincent Van Gogh could no longer pay his rent in Antwerp. Departing Belgium for Paris, he headed to the French capital, which was the center of the art world at the time, neglecting to inform his brother of his impending arrival. His brother, Theo, an art dealer, had little choice but to take him in, forcing them to share Theo’s small apartment at 25 Rue Victor Massé. A few months later, the brothers moved nearby to 54 Rue Lepic on the Butte Montmartre. Neighbors included Edgar Degas who lived at 50 Rue Lepic and Toulouse-Lautrec who lived around the corner.
Montmartre was a popular place for artists as it was relatively cheap and there were many “open studios” where artists could learn and work.
Van Gogh’s time spent in Paris was a very crucial part of his career. He abandoned the the dark Dutch and Belgian tones and adopted colorful, luminous hues as he experimented with new styles like Impressionism.
After two years, Van Gogh tired of the hustle and bustle of Paris, moved out of the apartment on Rue Lepic and headed for the southern part of the country. Arles, France was where he made his home and was what inspired him to paint in the way most people think of him today…sunflowers, starry nights, night cafes…
I wonder who lives at 54 Rue Lepic now?
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Van Gogh’s Apartment
Getting there: Take metro, line 12 (green) to Abbesses stop. Walk west on Rue de Abbesses until fork in the road. Take Rue Lepic (at fork) to the right. 54 Lepic is a short walk on the right.
For art lovers, one of the best places to be in the world is in Paris. The beauty of the city has inspired artists of every type for centuries.
Many people associate the area of Paris, Montmartre, with the artists who paint and display their works there, but I discovered another artist’s work in Montmartre that I certainly had to track down…the “ Passer Through Walls” or Le Passe-Muraille.
Situated in Place Marcel Aymé, just off of Rue Norvins, this statue is one of the most interesting that I have ever encountered, not only for its uniqueness, but for the story behind it. The bronze patina sculpture by Jean Marais is of a man that appears to be walking out from the wall in this small square. Marais, also an actor, created this sculpture in 1989 to pay tribute to Marcel Aymé, a popular French novelist, screenwriter and playwright, who created the character of Mr. Dutilleul, a ministry department clerk who discovers that he has the gift of walking through sold walls. After enduring the humiliation that his colleagues and superiors subject him to at work, Dutilleul uses his talent to avenge himself. Using and abusing his powers, one day they abandon him… just as he walks thru a wall, leaving half of his body trapped in the stone.
Marcel Aymé, buried in the nearby cemetery St. Vincent, spent most of his life in Rue Norvins and set many of his novels in Montmartre. His publication has inspired many cinematic adaptations, such as the French comedy farce film known as Mr. Peek-a-Boo, by Jean Boyer and the 1959 German film, The Man Who Walked Through the Wall, by Ladislao Vajda.
The statue emerging from the wall is very engaging and its left hand is shiny from all of the tourists who come to help the poor man. His head, right arm, left leg and left hand come forth from the wall. Legend has it that late at night many a passerby hear a muffled voice, which is believed to be Dutilleul, calling out from the wall and on some winter nights, the painter Gen Paul serenades the poor prisoner with a song on his guitar. Nearby on the wall, someone, (who’s maybe been to Amsterdam and visited the Bronze Breast?) has placed a breast and buttocks on the wall near Mr. Dutilleul. Who knows… maybe it’s to give the poor trapped man company.
Though off the beaten track, walking the winding streets through the lesser known parts of Montmartre, searching for Le Passe-Muraille, makes for a nice departure from the busy crowded areas such as Place du Tertre and the Sacre Coeur. Be on the lookout for Le Moulin de la Galette, a restaurant located about ½ a block away, located in a windmill. Even if you do not dine here, it’s certainly worth a short stop for a picture!
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Le Passer Muraille
Getting there: Take the metro, line 12 (green) to Abbesses station. It is a short walk to the north from there, located on the corner of Rue Norvins and Rue Girardons.
If you love both architecture and Barcelona, you can’t help but think of Antoni Gaudi the Spanish Catalan architect, whose work was influenced by the passions in his life, mainly architecture, nature and religion. When in Barcelona, it is an absolute must to see Gaudi’s masterpiece, the Sagrada Familia and interesting to visit Unesco Heritage Sites Parque Guell, Casa Batló and Casa Milà, all designed by Gaudi. (Later this year, Casa Vicens will be open to the public as a museum, as well).
Rain had been in the forecast for Barcelona all week and I had hoped that as the time went on, that maybe the forecast would change for the better. No dice…when we landed, there were raindrops all of over the airplane windows and it was dark and gloomy outside.
Pondering the many things to do in Barcelona, I had originally thought of taking the bus to Parque Guell if the weather was nice. Obviously, this wasn’t going to happen. My second idea was to re-visit Sagrada Familia; it had been three years since I had last toured the impressive church. Definitely worth a second visit, I checked the website for available tickets, however, the only time slot available was 7:00 pm. Not wanting the pressure of trying to squeeze in something before and having to make it there for the admission time, I decided it probably wasn’t the day to do it.
Since Gaudi was on my mind and I had visited Casa Batló last year, Casa Milà caught my eye. Just down the street from Casa Batló on Passeig de Gràcia, it was an easy bus ride from my hotel. And….I would be indoors in the event that the weather was not optimum.
Casa Batló
Not raining any longer, but still quite cloudy and threatening, we took the number 7 bus down to Passeig de Gràcia near the Diagonal Metro Station. Disembarking, we walked down the street and proceeded to get in line with the hordes of people that were where we assumed was Casa Milà. Thankfully, I looked up at the building and realized that it looked very familiar. We were not at Casa Milà, but Casa Batló, as we had walked in the wrong direction! Without having wasted much time, we headed in the opposite direction and soon came to the correct destination, Casa Milà. Here, thankfully, there was a very short line and as we stood in the queue, the sky began to clear and we actually saw a bit of sunshine.
Casa Milà
Built from 1906 to 1912 as two apartment blocks with separate entrances and linked by two large courtyards, Casa Milà was erected as a family home for Pere Milà i Camps and his wife Roser Segimon i Artells, but with apartments for rent. The building’s facade is compromised of undulating stone with twisting wrought iron balconies and windows. It resembles an open quarry, thus earning the nickname, La Pedrera. Casa Milà was Gaudi’s fourth and final work that he did on Passeig de Gràcia, which was the main avenue of Barcelona at the time.
Casa Milà Staircase
As we began the long climb up to the top of the building, we passed some of the apartments that share the space. We exited the stairwell onto the Roof Terrace, and were in awe of the sight before us. Many architectural sculptures stood before us which serve the building artistically as well as practically as stairwells, ventilation towers and chimneys. There were many a picture here on the terrace and from the building as the Sagrada Familia and multiple parts of the city could be viewed from here. I learned later that the Roof Terrace closes when it is raining, so we were extremely fortunate that the weather was cooperating at that time…a little cloudy, but overall dry.
The next space to visit, was the Espai Gaudi. This spectacular attic space, with its arched ceiling devotes itself to Gaudi’s work. The 270 catenary arches of various heights support the Roof Terrace and is an amazing display of architectural genius.
Attic, Espai Gaudi
Pedrera Apartment
The Pedrera Apartment recreates the life of a bourgeois family in Barcelona during the early twentieth century. Located on the fourth floor, the apartment is decorated with period furniture, works of art, ornaments, fabrics and household accessories. Displayed here, not only the way of life during the time period, but the eloquent architecture.
Finally, on the lower level of the building is the Courtyard. Looking up to the open air above where the Roof Terrace is located, this space aids with light and ventilation. Colorful murals adorn the ceilings and walls of the lobbies and main staircase. At the top of the staircase, the Exhibition Hall is located. This main floor was the former residence of the Milà’s and displays the open-floor plan used by Gaudi.
View upward from the courtyardExhibition Hall StairwayCourtyard decor and Premium entranceCourtyard
As our visit to La Pedrera was complete, we were shocked to see how much time had passed. So absorbed in the building and all that it offered, we had spent almost three hours taking in this astonishing architecture! An interesting way to spend an afternoon, we learned that we could return at another time to experience Casa Milà by Night which offers multiple projections in the stairwells and Passeig de Gràcia Courtyard as well as an extraordinary audiovisual show on the Roof Terrace. Truly a remarkable, well-rounded experience!
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Hours: La Pedrera by Night, Monday to Sunday, 21:00 to 23:00
Admission: La Pedrera by Day, Adults, 20.50€, Students, 16.50€, Children (7-12), 10.25€, Children (under 7), free. Includes audio guide.
Admission: La Pedrera by Day and Night, Adults, 39.50€, Children (7-12), 19.75€, Children (under 7), free. Includes audio guide.
Admission: La Pedrera Premium, Adults, 27.00€, Children (7-12), 10.25€, Children (under 7), free. Includes guide book, audio guide and premium admission with no waiting.
How to get there: Bus, 7, 16, 17, 24 and V17. Metro, lines 3 and 5, station Diagonal. FGC, Provença-La Pedrera. RENFE, Passeig de Gràcia
Having visited Athens on many occasions, I have seen the Acropolis, more than once, as well as many of the archaeological sites throughout the city. After a bit of research, I discovered one archaeological site that I had not explored on my other sojourns…Kerameikos, the thirty centuries old cemetery located on the northwest fringe of the city.
Hurrying through my impromptu church tour, I wanted to enter the cemetery before it’s early closing at 3:00 pm due to the Holy Week schedule. Having read many good things about the cemetery, I was determined to arrive with enough time to visit both the grounds and the museum.
Easy to reach, by walking the length of Ermou Street or via the metro (Keramiekos station, line 3), Kerameikos is just past the Monistiraki Flea Market and the Ancient Agora. Near the end of Ermou, there is signage pointing you in the correct direction and you can actually gaze upon the ruins below though the gates while walking to the entrance.
After paying my entrance fee of 2 euro, I made my way to the neo-classical styled museum. Informed by the ladies in the ticket office that the museum would take about 40 minutes, I started first by inspecting the statuary located outside under the portico, then finally moving in to the interior. Here, there is a vast display of burial-related artifacts, including marble sculptures, funerary urns, pottery, jewelry and toys. Most notable is the stunning bull, in the interior courtyard, from the tomb of Dionysios of Kollytos. A large number of original burial monument sculptures and grave markers are displayed at the museum in the outer courtyard, with plaster replicas replacing in them in their original sites.
Museum entranceStatuary on the portico
From the tomb of Dionysios of Kollytos
Grave markers
The immense number of grave markers, located just outside of the museum are small and plain and not quite what one would expect in a graveyard, resembling more of an ancient road marker or small sign post. These stark gravestones resulted from a a decree in 317 BC that prohibited more elaborate monuments, such as those with statues, that were in vogue at the time. After passing the grave markers while exiting the museum, I moved out to the paths that clearly define and move you throughout the site.
The ancient district of Kerameikos was located within the city walls of Athens with many ceramic workshops in the area. The outside part of Kerameikos served as the burial grounds. Located within Kerameikos was the Sacred Gate, and the start of the Sacred Way, or Iera Odos, which connected Athens with Eleusus and used by the many pilgrims traveling between the two cities during the procession of Panathenia. The Dipylon Gate, the main entrance to the city, was the spot where Pericles gave his most notable speech honoring those who died in the first year of the Peloponesian war. State graves were built on either side of the Dipylon Gate, for Athens notable warriors and statesmen, including Pericles and Cleisthenes. The Dipylon Gate was also the starting point of the ancient Dromos (Road) leading to the Platonic Academy.
Sacred GateRoad to the Platonic Academy
The Pompeion
The Pompeion, the preparation site for the Panathenaic procession in honor of Athena, was located between the Sacred Gate and the Dipylon Gate. The original building was destroyed in 88 BC during the conquest and plundering of Athens and the Building of the Warehouses replaced it in the 2nd Century AD. The Eridanos river which once passed through the Sacred Gate still flows beneath the site, having been covered over since the Roman period.
On the Street of Tombs, replicas of gravestones of some of the most prominent citizens of Athens, can be seen here. These graves were part of the public graveyard and these notable citizens were buried here at the public expense. The original gravestones are now housed in the National Museum.
Street of TombsModern replicas of the burial monuments for Hegeso, daughter of Proxenios, and for Koroibos
Church of Agia TriadaThe Acropolis as seen from Kerameikos
Often overlooked by visitors, Kerameikos is one of the most significant historical monuments in Athens. Comprising much historical value, it assists visitors in understanding the ancient Athenian way of life and therefore is a “must-see”. The church of Agia Triada serves as a beautiful background to the cemetery and outstanding views of many other Athens sites can be seen from Kerameikos, such as the Acropolis and Lycabettus Hill. The area has been planted with Mediterranean vegetation and is large and open. Not crowded and easy to navigate, the cemetery is a wonderful way to spend part of a day in Athens!
Springtime at Kerameikos
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Kerameikos Cemetery
Hours: April 1 to October 31, 08:00-19:30 daily, Monday 11:00-19:30, November 1 to March 31, 08:00-15:00 daily
A few weeks ago, I was in the Dominican Republic on Easter Sunday, soaking up the sunshine on Bavaro Beach. Little did I realize that a little more than a month later, I would get to celebrate Easter again.
While checking the Acropolis museum website last week, I noticed a banner across the website opening page, Holy Week 2016 Opening Hours at the Acropolis Museum. “Oh, they must have not updated their web page this month”, I thought to myself.
Well, you are never too old to learn something new. The Greek Orthodox Church celebrates Easter later than the Catholic church. The Greek Orthodox Church uses the Julian calendar when calculating the date of Pascha (Easter), while the rest of Christianity uses the Gregorian calendar. There is a thirteen day difference between the two calendars with the Julian calendar being thirteen days behind the Gregorian. Additionally, the Orthodox Church maintains that Pascha must take place after the Jewish Passover in order to maintain the Biblical sequence of Christ’s Passion. Occasionally, the two do celebrate it on the same date (last time, 2011), however the dates of Easter for the Orthodox Church can be anywhere from one to five weeks later.
So, Easter was going to be celebrated on Sunday and all museums, archaeological sites and many shops would be closing early on Saturday? There goes my nap. Being that we would not be arriving until mid-morning, I realized that if I wanted to visit any museums or do any shopping, I would have to take a shower and hit the streets right away.
Having made the decision to visit Agia Dynamis, I decided to map out other churches in the area since it was a Holy Weekend. Visits to these would be accomplished on my way to and from the Kerameikos Ancient Cemetery. Some of my favorite things to see in other countries is their churches…what not a better weekend to see some of Athen’s finest, than on Easter weekend?
Agia Dynamis (Holy Power), a tiny church on the corner of Mitropoleos Street and Pentellis Street, is squeezed between two of the supporting pillars of the Ministry of Education and Religion building. The ministry has been party built around the church as it cannot be demolished due to its prominent history. During the Greek revolution this was the location, that the Greek ammunition master, Mastropavlis, made bullets for the Turkish and for Greek freedom fighters that were smuggled out during the night in garbage bags.
The church is very small and not very embellished. There were many Athenians visiting the church while I was on the premises, lighting candles and offering up prayers.
Walking up Mitropoleos Street, in the Platia Mitropoleos, I next arrived at the Metropolitan Cathedral of Athens and the adjacent and diminutive Agios Eleftherios church, also known as Mikri Mitropoli (little metropolitan church) or Panagia Georgoepikoos (meaning “All-saint Mary who answers quickly to prayers”).
The Agios Eleftherios church is a Byzantine-era construction from the 13th century ordered to be built by the bishop of Athens. With the expulsion of King Otho, in 1862, it received its current name, meaning “Freedom”.
The outside is constructed of marble with much artistic detail. It is extremely small inside, but beautiful in its simplistic character.
After my visit was complete, I moved onward to the Agios Eleftherios’ illustrious neighbor, the Metropolitan Cathedral of Athens, popularly known as the “Metropolis”.
Towering over the “little metropolitan church” and the square, the domed basilica has presided in its current location since 1842 when construction began on Christmas Day. Marble from 72 demolished churches was used to build the Cathedral’s colossal walls. After its completion 20 years later, the Cathedral was dedicated by the King and Queen to the Annunciation of the Mother of God. The cathedral, a major city landmark, is the site of official ceremonies and important wedding and funerals.
When entering the church, note the ancient marble, above the entrance, depicting a woman said to be Eileithyia, the goddess of childbirth. During the passage from mythology to Christianity, many temples were transformed into churches and leads one to believe that this particular church was probably built on the ruins of an ancient Greek temple dedicated to Eileithyia.
The interior is very ornate with rich color, distinctive iconography and a beautiful domed ceiling. The Cathedral houses the tombs of two saints, Saint Philothei and Patriarch Gregory V, both killed by the Ottoman Turks during the Ottoman period. The interior was roped off and the sanctuary could only be viewed from afar.
After exiting the Cathedral, I took a a moment to wander through the square taking note of the two statues which reside here; Saint Constantine XI the Ethnomartyr, the last Byzantine Emperor and Archbishop Damaskinos, the Archbishop of Athens during World War II, who was also Regent for King George II and Prime Minister of Greece in 1946.
Walking through the Plaka, I resumed my church tour arriving in Monastiraki Square. The square is named for the Church of Pantanassa (or Ekklisia Kimisi Theotokou Mitropoleos) which is also located here. This small church presides over the square and the crowds of tourists that congregate here for shopping, dining, sightseeing and utilization of the metro at the Monastiraki station.
This church was known as the Great Monastery as it was located on the site of a monastery that stood here many years ago. Later, it became monastiraki (little monastery) which eventually denominated the entire area. Deciding to forgo the interior of this small shrine, I admired it from outside and continued on my way.
My next destination was the Kerameikos Cemetery, Museum and Archaeological Site located near the end of Ermou Street. The cemetery, one of the lesser known archaeological sites in the city, is most certainly worth a visit while in the area.
After my visit to Kerameikos Cemetery, I headed back through Monastiraki Square and walked along the Ancient Agora admiring Hadrian’s Library and the Tower of the Winds.
Hadrian’s Library, Ancient AgoraTower of the Winds, Ancient Agora
My final destination was the Church of the Holy Trinity or Sotira Lykodimou, one of the largest medieval buildings in Athens. The Byzantine church was built a little before 1083 within the city’s defensive walls. In 1847, the Russian government purchased the property and Tsar Alexander II undertook the huge renovation of the building in 1850, when the impressive bell tower and side tribunes were added. Now commonly known as the Russian Church it is the parish church of the Russian Orthodox community in Athens.
Stepping into the church, the eye is drawn upward to the impressively festooned dome and the exquisite tall Russian iconostasis, which warranted further inspection, however, before I could take additional pictures, I was instructed that none were allowed.
A quick walk around the exterior and I finally decided that my church tour was complete and it was finally time for my nap.
Within the ancient winding city of Athens, there are many more churches that are worthy of inspection. Dating back to the 5th century and boasting impressive architecture, most are well-preserved and decorated with icons and rare-frescoes. While strolling around the city, everyone should take time to visit these historical houses of worship.
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Agia Dynamis
Corner of Mitropoleos and Pentelis Streets
Take metro to Syntagma square, cross the square to the start of Mitropoleos Street and walk west. The church will be on your left.Metropolitan Cathedral of Athens and Agios Eleftherios Church
Metropolitan Square, Athens 105 56
Take metro to Syntagma square, cross the square to the start of Mitropoleos Street and walk west. The square and churches will be on your left.
Church of Pantanassa
Monastiraki Square, 10555 Athens
By Metro: 1 (Green Line), 3 (Blue Line), Station “Monastiraki”
By Bus: 025, 026, 027, 035, 200, 227, 500
By Foot: From Syntagma Square, follow Ermou Street all the way down until you meet up with Monastiraki Square
Church of the Holy Trinity
Corner of Filellinon Street and Souri
Take metro to Syntagma square. Head south on Amalias, take a right on Souri.
Sad and disappointed at having been turned away at the Monasterio de las Descalzas Reales, finding an alternative way to occupy my afternoon was now a priority.
Having been in Madrid many times, I knew that both the Opera House or Teatro Real and the Royal Palace were a short walk from my location. Heading first to the Teatro Real and remembering once having to return for the tour, as it is conducted at predetermined times, I decided bypass this attraction. Continuing my walk, I ventured through the Plaza de Oriente to the Palacio Real de Madrid.
Teatro RealPlaza de Oriente
Standing on the site of the former Alcazar of Madrid, a medieval fortress transformed into a lavish palace by John II, Charles V and Phillip II, who in 1561 made it the official residence of the Spanish Monarchy, the current building’s construction began in 1738. With the completion in 1751, Charles III was the first ruler to install his court within the palace in 1764. Although, now presently the official residence of the Spanish Royal Family in the city of Madrid, the palace is only used for state ceremonies. King Felipe VI and the Royal Family choose to reside in the Palacio de la Zarzuela on the outskirts of Madrid.
After entering the security checkpoint and purchasing your ticket, you enter the Plaza de la Armeria. Standing in this vast courtyard, you are rewarded with spectacular views of the palace and the Catedral de la Almudena directly across and outside the palace gates.
Palacio Real de MadridCatedral de la AlmudenaGrand Staircase
Upon entering the palace, a turn to the right encounters the Grand Staircase, composed of a single piece of San Agustin marble and graced by two lions on the landing. Glancing upward, the magnificent frescoes on the ceiling, by Corrado Giaquinto, and depicting the Religion Protected by Spain takes one’s breath away. Before climbing the stairway, take a minute to glace back at the statue of Charles III in Romantoga.
“Religion Protected by Spain”, ceiling frescoe by Corrado GiaquintoCharles III
The tour is self-guided and takes you through many elaborately embellished chambers, including King Charles III’s Apartments, the Queen’s Apartment’s and Banqueting hall, Apartments of Infante Luis, including the Musical Instruments Room, The Royal Chapel and the Crown Room.
King Charles III Apartments
The Queen’s Banquet Hall
Apartments of Luis Infante, Musical Instruments RoomRoyal Chapel
The Crown Room
Photos are allowed when entering and on the Grand Staircase, however, are not allowed throughout the first floor and is strictly enforced. Having mastered the art of sneaking a few shots, I was able to get a few photos within some of the rooms using my iPhone.
After your tour of the main palace is complete, walk out to the back of the palace and gaze upon the Campo del Moro Gardens and the exquisite view beyond. The gardens here are so named because in 1109, during an attempted reconquest of Madrid, Muslim leader Ali ben Yusuf, allegedly camped here with his troops.
Campo del Moro Gardens
Continue walking to the front right corner of the premises, while facing Catedral de la Almudena, and enter the Real Armeria or the Royal Armory. The armory is considered one of the world’s best, housing pieces from as early as the 13th century. Tournament pieces made for Charles V and Philip II and full armor and weapons that Emperor Charles V used in the Battle of Muhlberg are the highlights of the collection.
The Royal Armory
Quite glad that I noticed the small Royal Armory sign before I left the palace, I had curiously ventured over to this corner of the Plaza de la Armeria. Worth taking the time to enter, it was something that my son and I had missed a couple of years ago. Again, pictures are not allowed in these quarters and it is an extreme shame, as there are a vast number of beautiful pieces.
The Palacio de Real Madrid is an historic part of the city and certainly a must-see on a visit to Madrid. Combine it with a visit to the Teatro Real, the Monastery de las Descalzas or the Catedral de Almudena, all within the same area. Take a few minutes to wander through the adjacent Plaza de Oriente, admiring the fountain and the many statues nestles within the gardens. And lastly, combine it with a nice meal at the many restaurants located in the area or at the nearby Plaza Mayor, maybe stopping to browse at some of the local’s artwork that line the street. All in all, much history and culture can be experienced in this one area of the city.
Fountain in Plaza de OrientePlaza de OrienteMetro stop nearest to Teatro Real and PalaceLocal artist Badri Kokaia
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After our visit to the opulent De Haar Castle, the return to Amsterdam was taking us back again through Utrecht. Seeing an opportunity to circumnavigate the ancient city center, albeit quickly, we decided to hop off of the train and make quick work of seeing a few landmarks.
Finally exiting the train station, after wandering aimlessly through the adjacent shopping center, a quick stop was made for soup and a sandwich. Realizing that the day was drawing to a close, I wanted to show my friend, Leianne, a few of the things that I had appreciated on a prior visit.
While at the castle, we had learned of the destruction that had been caused by a hurricane in 1674. The same storm had torn through the city and destroyed the nave of St. Martin’s Cathedral, or the Dom Church as it is more commonly known. The Church and the Dom Tower still stand separated by the non-existent nave, now the Domplein, a square with trees. Once the Netherlands’ largest church, dedicated to St. Martin of Tours, it was also the cathedral of the Diocese of Utrecht during the Middle Ages. The tower, the hallmark of the city, is the tallest church tower in the Netherlands. Standing at 367 feet high, it is on the spot where the city of Utrecht originated almost 2,000 years ago.
St. Martin’s Cathedral (Dom Church)Cathedral interiorDom Tower
As we walked up the street toward these two magnificent structures we passed underneath the Dom Tower. Exiting on the church side, it was easy to imagine the hurricane force winds that caused the destruction many years ago. The wind was blowing so hard that we were almost unable to put one foot in front of the other.
Walkway through Dom Tower
Although we did not have time to do so on this day, climbing the Dom Tower can be a wonderful opportunity to see Utrecht from a higher vantage point. On a prior trip, I climbed the 465 steps to the top, stopping halfway to view the historic bells and the 17th century Hemony carillon.
Once we completed our visit of St. Martin’s Cathedral, we ducked into the Pandhof (courtyard) which is located between St. Martin’s Cathedral and the University Hall at Domplein. The Pandhof is a peaceful and picturesque monastery garden, where ornamental plants and herbs bloom. In the center of the garden is a fountain with a bronze statue of the 14th century priest Hugo Wstinc. One of the most beautiful enclosed gardens in Holland, it is worthy of a few minutes to step inside…and if you are lucky, there will be someone utilizing the magnificent acoustics and playing music for your enjoyment (or for a euro or two!)
Pandhof Entry and corridorPandhofMusician utilizing the acoustics at Pandhof
As the day ended, we walked around a bit more, just checking out the beautiful architecture and relaxed atmosphere that Utrecht has to offer, before making our return to Amsterdam. Having previously visited Utrecht, I know all that the city extends to visitors. Hopefully, despite the short time here, my friend gained some insight in to what a great place it is to spend time and she will return to inspect it further!
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Utrecht
Getting there: Amsterdam Central to Utrecht, approximately 25 minutes, 5-6 departures per hour, approximtely 17€ roundtrip
Located in the center of the Netherlands near Utrecht, De Haar Castle, is a medieval fortress complete with towers, ramparts, canals, gates and drawbridges. Entirely restored and partially rebuilt in the 19th century, it is a sight to behold and quite unlike anything you would expect from the less than flamboyant Dutch.
Getting to De Haar Castle was so much easier than I ever thought. Worried about changing trains in Utrecht and then to a bus in Vleuten, I had put off visiting De Haar Castle for quite some time. Laying in my bed the night before, trying to decide what to do the next day and knowing that the weather was not going to be optimum, I decided that in the very least, it was something to do that was indoors and probably worth the trip.
The agents in the Amsterdam train station were extremely helpful when purchasing our tickets. While checking train schedules, I knew that there were certain trains that provided a better connection in Utrecht, however, connect time was only about eleven minutes. The agent informed us which Utrecht train to take for the better connection, but gave us a choice…wait in Amsterdam Central a little longer for that train or go to Utrecht on a train leaving sooner and have more time for the connecting train in Utrecht. We decided on the first train, in the event that the other might be running behind…better to wait in Utrecht!
Amsterdam Central Station
Travel to Utrecht is a quick twenty-six minutes. The station is not very large and finding the platform for the Vleuten train was brief and uncomplicated. The journey from Utrecht to Vleuten is only ten minutes. Walking down from the platform, take a left, under the tracks and you will see the bus stop straight ahead on the left. The #111 bus to De Haar Castle (on certain days) runs approximately every thirty minutes and drops off right in front of the castle.
The ride to the castle is quite short, through the beautiful countryside. Before we realized, the bus was coming to a stop and we had our first glimpse of the castle’s outer walls. A short walk led us to the gatehouse, the courtyard and the ticket office. Walking toward the impressive castle through the front gardens, one can imagine how lovely it would be during the spring and summer months when everything is in bloom.
Exterior wallEntry and ticket office/gift shop
Tours begin on the top of the hour so there was some time to walk around and take pictures of the beautiful grounds and the castle’s exterior. After finally entering the castle, we found a coat check room and lockers for our belongings. We also found a sign stating that no pictures are allowed…very disappointing for this photography lover!
The hour long tour take you through different parts of the grand home, from the kitchen to the guestrooms and touches on the history of the castle. In 1890, De Haar was inherited by Baron Etienne van Zuylen who was wed to Baroness Helene de Rothschild. Plans were made to rebuild the castle which was in disrepair, with architect Pierre Cuypers in 1892, a project that took 20 years to complete. The castle has 200 rooms and 30 bathrooms, of which only about 10 are shown on the tour.
Interior photos (of course, we sneaked a few)
Surrounding the castle are magnificent gardens designed by Hendrik Copijn. Many waterworks can be found throughout as well as a formal garden modeled after those of Versailles. The village of Haarzuilens, formerly located where the park was to be built, was demolished for construction of the gardens, with the exception of the town church, and moved further up the valley, where it can be visited today. Most of the buildings were designed by Pierre Cuypers and his son Joseph. The coat of arms does not only live on in the colors of the castle, but also in nearly all of the houses in Haarzuilens.
Dutch house in Haarzuilens.Chapel
Upon completion of our tour, we once again returned to the grounds, fighting the wind and drizzle, finding the chapel, which we had hoped to visit, closed. It was easy to imagine how returning during the warmer months would be extremely enjoyable, venturing out into the sunshine to encounter the Rose Garden, the Roman Garden, ponds, canals, bridges, vistas and impressive avenues. Reading somewhere that each season at the castle has its own charm, I can promise you that due to the ornery weather, winter’s charm was not going to be experienced during our visit…only winter’s misery!
Catching the bus at the same location, we returned to the Vleuten train station for the brief journey to Utrecht and Amsterdam.
One would expect a castle of this caliber to be found throughout other parts of Europe, not the Netherlands. Thanks to the Van Zuylen family, however, it is one that you can experience on a trip to the country most known for its windmills and cheese. If you are in search of history and architecture, then, De Haar Castle is worth the effort.
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Opening Hours: January 4-March 13, daily, 11:00-17:00. March 14-June 30, daily, 10:00-17:00. Tours depart on the hour, last tour 16:00.
Admission: Castle entrance and all day park access, Adults, 14,00€, Children (ages 4-12), 9,00€, Children (under 4), free
Admission: Park entrance only, Adults 4,00€, Children (ages 4-12), 3€, Children (under 4), free
Getting there: Trains depart for Utrecht from Amsterdam Central station regularly. From Utrecht Central Station take the train to Vleuten (train destination: Den Haag Centraal, not the intercity, but the sprinter). At Vleuten station, go down the stairs and turn left to the bus station. Take bus #111 on Wednesday, weekends and special holidays. Bus will drop you right next to the castle. For other days, take bus #127 to Breukelen and get off at the “Kasteel” bus stop at Haarzuilens. From here, it’s a 15 minute walk to the castle.
Additional option: On a nice day, rent a bike in Utrecht and ride to the castle, about one hour and 15 minutes.
