There are approximately 60,000 free-roaming horses in the United States and Canada.
If you have the opportunity to visit one of the locations where they reside…you should take full advantage.
A couple of years ago, while visiting friends in North Carolina’s Outer Banks, I went in search of the many different horse statues that graced the barrier island.
These statues were placed throughout the different communities to commemorate the wild Spanish mustangs that roam the northern beaches of Corolla and Carova and are believed to be the descendants of shipwrecked horses from centuries prior.
This year, I went in search of the real horses.
Though you can access the northern beaches by four-wheel drive vehicles and search for these beautiful, four-legged creatures by yourself, there is always the risk of getting bogged down in the loose, deep sand. I wasn’t that brave.
For those who are not as adventurous (or do not own a four-wheel drive vehicle), there are safari-type tours that will drive you there (and back) in search of the horses and this is what I decided to do.
Leaving early in the morning, we headed out in the open-air, twelve-seat vehicle towards the end of the Ocean Trail to the North Beach Access Road where the pavement ends and the sand begins at the Currituck National Wildlife Refuge.
Not long after beginning our journey on the sandy expanse, we slowed our trek as we spotted a group of seven mustangs standing along the waterfront. Not to be intimidated by our presence, they stood in two groups, huddled against the morning breeze.
Advised that we would keep our distance, we strove to get the best photos from our viewpoint a short distance away while these creatures alternately stood together and sometimes took a rest on the sand.
After a short while, we said goodbye and moved onward in search of more, scanning the tall sand dunes that protected the beach homes that line the coast and driving inland on the many unpaved roads that harbor additional homes on the inlet.
There were many more horses to be spotted that day; two holding court atop a towering dune, a group of four grazing in a grassy field, the lone male trotting along down a sandy road, a group of three blocking our passage on Sandfiddler Road.
All in all, we spotted twenty-one mustangs during our excursion while also enjoying the amazing, beachfront homes, alluring landscapes and even a bit of history.
The Wash Woods Station provides an interesting change in the architecture along the beach and was built as a lifesaving station in 1917 to replace an outdated station (Deals Island Station #6) a few miles north. It was named for a small village located just north of the Virginia border and housed many guardsmen who kept lookout, especially during times of war when enemy ships cruised along the coast.
After the war, the need for personnel decreased until only a single caretaker remained. The station was decommissioned in late 1954 or early 1955. It served as a private vacation home for a time and then was restored in 1989. Today you can enjoy its construction from afar and occasionally even a horse on the property.
Eventually, we made our way back the way we had come, taking time to stop to enjoy the views from Penny Hill, the second largest dune in North Carolina.
Finally, our adventure was coming to a close and it was time for everyone to head back to their beach chairs and sun!
As I sat in my chair later that day, I turned my head and looked northward. I thought about the magnificent ponies that hold court not that far from where I was seated. Though they were not as colorful as the ones that I had sought out two years before, they were the true color of the landscape.
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There are many historic sites in the Outer Banks of North Carolina. Those located in Corolla give visitors a chance to incorporate a bit of antiquity with the sun-filled vacation.
As I was driving near the Currituck Lighthouse a couple of years ago, I spied the Corolla Chapel. A quaint little church, tucked behind the lighthouse, on the north end of the village, it sparked my interest. On that day, however, I had a carload full of teenaged boys who had already agreed to an interruption of their beach time for a visit to the lighthouse…I knew I would be pushing my luck to require them to prolong their absence from the sun and sand.
This time, there was only me.
I had just come from one of the horse-spotting tours and remembered this historic church. With time on my hands, I decided to investigate.
The Corolla Chapel is an interdenominational Christian fellowship that dates back to 1885. The original sanctuary was situated across the road from its current location and moved and expanded in 2002 to accommodate the expanding number of attendees.
The chapel still retains its original interior walls and contains many of its original items including its pews, pump organ, pulpit and pulpit chair.
As I walked around the small space, I marveled at the stained glass windows and the cross-shaped plan of the building. Though it was a weekday, I envisioned that the best way to really understand this small church was to attend one of the services that are held throughout the year and on special occasions.
Maybe I will have to come back again.
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Wedding and travel magazine spreads showing beautiful couples wearing expensive jewelry, designer swimsuits and perfectly coiffed hair lounging around, looking at each other lovingly while hanging in their hotel room’s private pool.
Yeah, I was always sure that was for the rich and famous.
During spring break, my son and I were playing travel roulette. No set plans…we had a list of tropical destinations that we thought we might like to try to sit standby for (a perk of my airline job) and we were going to see where we ended up.
Punta Cana eventually won out and as I made my way down the jetway to my last-minute seat, I frantically scrolled on my phone through the list of resorts that had availability.
There were three that I was eyeing…
There was one we visited a few years ago; the cheapest, but one we had enjoyed for its lively staff, wide-spread beach and their rooms’ proximity to the beach.
There was another that I knew nothing about but my son had a friend staying there. It had excellent reviews and a decent price.
The third was the most expensive of the three (though most akin to number two). It was located two properties over from the first option and one property over from where we had stayed last August, so we were familiar with the area. Both my son and I had friends staying there, so while my son could spend time hanging with his friends, I would have others to have adult conversations and drinks with!
Checking the prices for the third option, I discovered that I could choose the cheapest of their rooms, however, since it was last minute, I could get a room with a swim-up pool for just a little more.
Being that it was my son’s senior year, I had just received a good bonus check and I just felt like pampering myself, I decided to go with option number three! I just hoped that it was worth it!
We arrived to dark skies, rain and no waiting transportation due to a mix-up with our booking. Finally, arranging a one-way transfer, we were exhausted as we made our way into the open air lobby of the Royalton Punta Cana Resort & Casino.
A short time later, we were being escorted to our room near the beach area of the resort. As we passed the rooms with swim-up pools facing the main pool area, I got my first look at what we had paid for. These people could watch the action of the main resort area, yet hang out in their own private space.
As I entered our room, I pulled open the curtains and glanced out at our own pool area, which faced the side of our resort and the resort next door. Well, we didn’t have a great view. No watching the action of the resort, but it was still exciting to have this amenity. With the miserable weather, however, I decided that I needed a nap more than a swim. Taking advantage of this perk would have to wait until the next day.
The next morning, I eagerly opened the curtain, ready for sunshine! What was this? Shadows? With the sun making its way across the sky, our pool was enshrouded in darkness. How on earth was I going to work on my tan?
As we walked to the main lobby for breakfast, I enviously spied on the guests lounging on their verandas, dipping themselves in their private pools. They had sun! I thought, “No wonder I got my room for such a steal…it’s on the shady side of the resort. ”
After stuffing ourselves with pastries and omelets, we decided to head to the beach, spending the remainder of the morning lounging under one of the resort’s thatched umbrellas and enjoying the azure waters that lapped it’s shores.
One of the perks of this resort is that although there were many restaurants that served lunch near the beach, we could utilize room service…for free! Using the ordering feature on our television, we could sit on our veranda and enjoy lunch in the privacy of our room.
This needing doing!
Heading back to our room and noticing that the shadows had changed with the movement of the sun, we ordered our meal and then opened the curtain. Can you believe it? Noon was the witching hour! The sun had crept slowly across the sky during the morning and now our private pool and veranda was filled with bright light!
After enjoying our lunch, we jumped into the pool, relishing in the coolness of the water. Though our pool was private, it was connecting to the others along the length of the building. Though we remained here for the remainder of the day, we were always alone. Not one of the rooms here had guests who swam outside or relaxed on their verandas!
Each day, we repeated the same pattern; hang at the beach during the mornings and enjoy the resort’s many amenities…mini-golf, lazy river, flowrider, restaurants, snack bars. Every afternoon, however, we retreated to our room to take advantage of our pool. What luxury!
And, no…we never saw anyone on the backside of the resort.
Sometimes my last minute plans don’t go so well. This one went swimmingly!
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I have driven this stretch of roadway many times, heading to the mountains to ski, to my son’s baseball games, to college visits, to pick apples in the fall and to visit friends.
When driving, scenic pull-overs always grab my attention. I love to stop and see why it would warrant someone’s attention.
One such stop, on Interstate 64 eastbound, near Afton Mountain (between mile markers 103 and 104), offers more than just beautiful views of the adjacent Blue Ridge Mountains and Albermarle and Nelson counties.
Constructed in 2004, with $168,000 in donations from VDOT workers and family members, the VDOT (Virginia Department of Transportation) Workers’ Memorial and Scenic Overlook is a place for family members, friends and colleagues to reflect on the loss of their loved ones who have lost their lives while performing their jobs as state highway transportation workers.
The Virginia Department of Transportation was established in 1906 and since its inception, many workers lives have been lost while carrying forth the responsibilities of their jobs, many in . work zone incidents. The names of 134 employees who have died between 1928 and 2012 are engraved on the memorial in random columns.
The thirteen foot high memorial’s design shows three profiles of workers wearing hard hats cut into black, white and gray granite. These layers of granite depict the diversity of VDOT’s employees and the open profile at one end represents a “missing” worker. While looking through this “missing” worker, visitors can see the scenic view, while enjoying the surrounding wildflowers and daylilies.
If you are heading through beautiful Virginia, take a few minutes to pull over, enjoy the view and pay your respects to those who made the highway you are traveling on possible. And if you see workers along the way…
Slow down!
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While standing on the slopes of Pacaya Volcano, we couldn’t help but feel elated!
I can’t explain the pure joy we were feeling for having chosen to visit Guatemala and the beautiful city of Antigua…for all the things we had seen while we were there…for the friendly Guatemalans that we had encountered…for all of the beauty we had laid our eyes upon!
We were not ready for it to be over and thankfully, we were able to work out another night’s stay with our hotel (not an easy feat with the busy Holy Week)!
In order to make the most of our extra time, we were up early to hit the streets and see everything we had not yet had the time to. Believe me, there was quite a bit, plus more than we would have ever imagined.
First stop was the Cementerio General San Lázaro, just down the street from our hotel. We had not intended to stop here, but it was on the way to the our first destination. Always having been intrigued by old cemeteries, I figured it was worth a quick look.
Walking through the white arched entrance, decorated for Holy Week, we made our way through the municipal cemetery that was created in 1834 by the state major, Mariano Galvez on land that once hosted a leper’s hospital. The maze of white-washed tombs, some displaying the purple decorations for Holy week, was very peaceful and we observed the immaculate grounds. Though there were many mausoleums and smaller tombs, there were just as many that were quite grand. The small colonial church, San Lazaro, at the end of the large initial walkway, contained some interesting statues, both inside and out, and a large gold altar.
Leaving the cemetery, we made our way down the street to our original destination, Convento la Recolección, which I had spotted on my map the night before. We didn’t have any idea of what to expect here, but after paying our admission at the gate, we were blown away by what we found.
In the United States, there are so many building codes that dictate the structural integrity of a building. If a building does not meet these codes, people are most definitely not allowed to enter the premises or in some cases, even approach. On our first day, we were shocked to see how we could wander freely through the ruins of the monasteries that had no barrier walls or guard rails.
Convento la Recolección, took this to a whole different level.
We could see that this structure was missing its roof and that the front walls were crumbling, as approached on the lengthy sidewalk. There were two huge chunks of stone on either side of the sidewalk and we discovered that these were pieces of the same front walls that had collapsed during the great earthquake of 1773.
Approaching the front steps, we looked through the stone archway (surprisingly still intact), to the interior. The floor was littered with boulder-sized remains of the church’s ceiling and columns. There were no barriers or restrictions on where you could walk and we slowly and carefully made our way around the decaying floor, littered with its broken extremities, while staring upwards at the remaining walls, some still displaying its original detailing. Truly one of the most thought provoking places I have ever visited!
This architectural complex was a former church and monastery of the Order of the Recollects, initiated when in 1685, two missionaries of the friars of the Recollects arrived and sought permission for construction of the monastery. Though it was originally determined by the City Council that not enough friars were present to support the venture and that enough monasteries had been established, a royal decree was finally issued for its construction in 1700. Construction commenced in 1701 and continued until 1717 when the church was inaugurated. A short time later that year, earthquakes damaged the church and cloisters. Repairs were carried out, however, the devastating Santa Marta Earthquake of 1773, left the complex in ruins.
Today, the ruins are protected as both a national monument and as a UNESCO World Heritage Site and as we made our way out of the church, we walked into the adjacent monastery grounds. Here, the walls are still standing, but as with the church, the complex is open to the Antiguan heavens. The interior rooms and the former cloister is free of rubble, giving it a different feel than the church. Many of the walls and interior spaces were aged and decrepit, however, there were many traces of the architectural details that once graced its walls.
Heading a few blocks up the road, we found ourselves at our next stop, Convento de San Jeronimo. This complex was once planned as the College of St. Jerome by the Order of Mercy in 1757, however, in 1765, after initial construction was almost demolished, it was decided that the building would be used as the building of the Real Income Alcabalas and Royal Customs, one of the city’s top financial institutions of the time. As with most other buildings within the city, its construction was affected by earthquakes and some of its remains used as building materials for other projects within the city.
Today, the well-manicured grounds contain a multitude of flowers, shrubs and trees and provide a peaceful setting for families who desire to have a nice setting for a picnic lunch. Though the complex is not immense, it is nice to explore some of the small rooms and ascend the staircases to the top. At the north end, we looked out over the courtyard and its central fountain toward the towering Volcan de Agua in the distance.
Our final destination took us across the city, now teeming with visitors, here to see the Holy Week processions. It seemed that the city’s population had tripled overnight and we had a difficult time making our way through the parades that journeyed through the streets, now even during the daytime hours.
The festivities reminded me so much of Mardi Gras, with its vendors and convivial atmosphere, yet, without the debauchery. Many people were donning purple robes and the Holy Week processions that we had witnessed during the previous evenings, had grown in size, both in the amount of participants and the proportions of the floats. In the Tanque La Unión, the historic gathering place used by the citizens to wash their clothes during colonial times, there were countless peddlers lining its perimeter and cooking traditional Guatemalan delicacies and dishes which could be purchased. The mournful sounds of the bands could be heard throughout the city, especially in the nearby Convento Santa Clara.
Santa Clara was established in 1734 by the sisters from Puebla, Mexico and four years later, destroyed by the Santa Marta Earthquake and subsequently abandoned.
As we entered, we noticed how much larger this complex was compared to the others we had visited. It was filled with floral blooms and shrubs and like most others, missing most of its ceiling.
Most interesting, however, was the intact church’s stonework facade with is Serbian balustrade pilasters and the arched niches along the nave which served as confessionals in addition to the captivating cloister with its ancient fountain.
Walking along one of the halls, you can stand atop the extended pulpit chair and climb the one remaining stairway adjacent to the cloister. Magnificent views over the convent can be obtained here as well as of the nearby mountains.
As our day was coming to a close, we ducked into the nearby Iglesia San Pedro Apóstol, its front portico packed with those looking to purchase items from the multitude of vendors in the streets and in front of the church or just hoping to get a better view of the processions.
Iglesia San Pedro Apóstol is a smaller baroque church adjacent to San Pedro Hospital. It was designed by Nicolás de Cárcamo and named in honor of Hermano Pedro de San José Betancur, whose tomb we had seen on our second day at the Santuario San Francisco el Grande.
As we stood, once again, on the portico, we looked out into the street and noticed a brightly colored display comprised of pine needles, sawdust and flowers. When the owner of our hotel had mentioned to us that “carpets” were beginning to be laid throughout the city, we innocently envisioned something you would see at a movie screening. Suddenly, the colorful sawdust between the cobblestones and the bags of sawdust and the stencils at the market began to make sense. The night before, we had watched a lady lay pine needles in a cordoned-off section on one of the streets as we walked home. We really had no idea what was transpiring and then it all made sense as we looked down on the street below us.
These were the carpets!
But, did the processions avoid these streets that the carpets were laid down on?
As a procession made its way down our street, we watched as they paraded right through these carpets, destroying the beautiful display. After the procession was complete, there were multiple people following who swept up the remnants, leaving a scattering of sawdust wedged between the paving stones.
Walking home, we began to notice so many of these carpets or “alfombras” lining the streets. It was obvious how much work and time was devoted to these endeavors and we were mesmerized as we walked by and examined these intricate designs which sometimes take months to plan involving multiple members of families and businesses.
Around the corner from our hotel, we noticed two different alfombras being laid. We decided that we could check their progress early in the morning when we were heading to the airport.
During the early morning hours, packing up our suitcases, we were informed by the hotel staff that our driver had called and could not make it to the hotel. Since we would have to the walk the six blocks to meet him, we headed into the darkened streets, only to find them lighted by strong lamps and enlivened with loud music.
As we traversed the distance to our awaiting transportation, we discovered why he could not make it to our hotel. The streets were blocked and people had worked through the night, creating alfrombras everywhere. It was the most amazing sight…beautiful carpets stretching as far as we could see.
Though I snapped as many pictures as I could while walking, the outcome does not show you the impact of what were seeing, plus with the motion and darkened streets, my pictures were not the clearest.
If I had realized what was to come, we might have planned on leaving on the afternoon flight and spending the early morning hours walking around the city, admiring the carpets and watching the processions originate from La Merced (around 4:00 am) when the processioners swap their purple robes to black ones. Still, what we saw was one of the most intriguing spectacles, leading me to think that I need to plan a trip in the future, just to spend time inspecting the alfombras!
As our plane departed Guatemala City a few hours later, I sat back in my seat, thinking of all that we had experienced during the last few days. It was mind boggling how much we accomplished not knowing one thing about Guatemala, Antigua, it history and traditions and yet, discovered, almost by accident.
With so much more to explore in this rich country…Lake Atitlan, the ruins of Tikal, Iximche and Yaxha and miles of beach-lined coast…Guatemala deserves more than just one more day!
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Cemeterio General San Lázaro
Address: Calle San Bartolome Becerra, Antigua Guatemala, Guatemala
I was finally going to get my chance in Guatemala.
After our arrival, we had set up a tour to climb Pacaya. Though the tour we booked was to be conducted in Spanish, we decided that we could make it work.
Picked up from our hotel, we endured a longer than normal drive due to the heavy traffic. Arriving at the Visitors’ Center in the village of San Francisco de Sales, late in the afternoon, there were so many tour buses and hikers, we were afraid that we would lose our group. Maybe the tour being in Spanish wasn’t such a good idea after all!
After paying our park entrance fee and saying “No, gracias” fifty times when asked if I wanted to buy a hiking stick by the hordes of children hoping to make a few quetzals, our group of approximately fifteen hikers and a tour guide, finally set out on the uphill trail.
No sooner than we began the uphill climb, I began to have a bit of trouble. Now, I’m no Olympic athlete, but I do go to the gym fairly regularly. And yes, I am over the hill, but the altitude and steepness of the climb, however, was no joke. Thankfully, three young men following our group with horses, came to the rescue. You can bet I climbed up on that horse’s back quicker than you can say, “Lava”.
At every lookout point and rest area, I watched everyone sweating profusely and breathing heavy. Me? I just hopped off my horse and attempted to capture the views of the Laguna De Calderas and Mirador Majahue, neither of which we could get a good glimpse of due to the low clouds.
My ride was enjoyable and I suspected we were close to the top when the clouds descended upon us. Separated from the rest of the group, me and another horse rider, were guided up another trail to where the horses are kept and traded out.
Everything was white (and windy) and I was quite ecstatic that I had not exerted myself for no view. As I blindly ambled across the lava field, I saw the Lava Store and thought, “Well, at least I have something to take a picture of…”
Finally, hearing voices in the distance, the rest of the group made their way toward us. As if on cue, the clouds seemed to dissipate a bit and just over the ridge, we could see lava streaming down the side of the volcano!
Thinking about the earthquake a couple of nights prior, it was a bit disconcerting, yet thrilling at the same time! Were we tempting fate? What if there was another earthquake at that moment and it shifted the flow?
Possible? Maybe? But I am no seismologist! And I am definitely not a volcanologist!
Instead of worrying, I happily accepted my stick and marshmallows from my guide and made my way to the heat vents to roast my snack. Amazingly, the heat (probably enough to melt the soles of our shoes if you stood in one location long enough), was sufficient to brown and make them a gooey, bunch of goodness!
Feeling as though we had worn out our welcome, it was time to appease the volcano gods and vacate their unstable residence.
Hopping on my horse, my Guatemalan hostler led me back down the steep path to where our hike originated. Though we were far from the lava flow at this point, I have to admit, I felt as though we weren’t far enough.
Though it was thrilling to see, maybe I wasn’t quite loving the lava!
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Admission: 50Q (about $6.50 US) for park admission, not covered by tour price. Tours run approximately $7-8 US per person and often conducted in Spanish.
Getting There: Many tours are available through hotels and tour companies.
So, why are the colorfully decorated transport buses that you see in Guatemala called chicken buses?
Have you ever seen a truckload of chickens being taken to the processing plant? Crammed together in an enclosed space, this is how Central Americans look (and probably feel) when they travel throughout their countries. And, yes, sometimes crammed into these buses, they transport live animals…probably a chicken or two every now and then.
When American school buses are retired, they are sold at auction and often end up in Central America, modified and painted with bright colors and designs. Easy to spot due to their vibrant paint jobs, religious imagery and verbiage, the bus’s name and permanent route are often inscribed over the front windshield. Their insides (well, that is the most interesting part) are sometimes jazzed up with Christmas lights, tassels and posters and a very loud sound system.
Sounds like fun!
Operated by two people, a driver and the ayudante or helper, they run a tight schedule. Although the driver’s job is extremely important, as he is responsible for the safe passage of his customers, the helper keeps everything running smoothly. From collecting money, to stowing everything from luggage, to livestock and produce…sometimes on the roof of the bus…sometimes while in motion…the ayudante also is responsible for announcing (loudly) the destinations that the bus is reaching.
The self-employed driver and his assistant prefer to keep the buses at capacity to reduce operating costs and sometimes travel at top speed in a hair-raising, nerve-wracking experience. After all, time is money!
Although during our stay in Guatemala, we never had the opportunity to ride one of the chicken buses, we were quite fascinating watching the operation.
Next time, I may give it a go…and bring a chicken or two.
Does fried chicken count?
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Approximate Fares: Outlying communities to Antigua, about 2Q-4.5Q ($0.37-$0.43). From Antigua to Guatemala City and return, about 10Q ($1.25) one way. Children ride for free in the passenger’s lap.
Five churches, a market, an overlook, an arch, dinner and a procession?
That’s a lot for one day!
On our third day in Antigua, we had a trip to Pacaya volcano planned during the afternoon, so we decided that after our busy previous day, we were going to take it easy and hang out near our hotel at the market during the morning.
Well, that was the plan anyway!
Entering the property from Alameda de Santa Lucia, we headed in to what we thought was the artisan’s market. Instead, we found the local market, filled with clothing, shoes, dvd’s and any other thing you could think of besides souvenirs. A little confused, we continued to walk around, thinking that maybe we had confused the El Carmen market with what we thought was here. Finally, we stumbled upon the entrance to a modern building, a little to the back and on the south side of the local market.
Built around large, centralized courtyards, the Mercado de Artesanías contains many vendors selling from their small spaces, each hoping to gain your attention and business. There is a wide variety of beautiful and colorful Guatemalan handicrafts here.
Since I had already purchased some creatively embroidered blouses and table runners the day before at the small market at Santuario San Francisco El Grande, I was only looking a nativity set and a mask for my collections and crucifixes for my parents. Of course, I was open to whatever else I could find and I had quite a bit of cash ready!
There were food and drink vendors, an ATM and clean bathrooms on site and the entire atmosphere appeared as if it had been built sometime in the last few years.
It was quite difficult to narrow down my decisions, but I learned that vendors were more willing to bargain if you were purchasing more than one item. So, Marta made me the best deals and we walked away very happy with everything I had been searching for.
At the back of the market, we found some interesting booths selling colorful bags of sawdust and paper cutouts with intricate patterns. We had seen colorful sawdust in the streets between the cobblestones. Could this all be related? It would take some time, but the significance of this would be revealed to us later!
Passing the bus station with the colorfully painted and hyped up, re-purposed school buses, called the Chicken Buses, we exited the market. My son had not found the shirts that he had hoped for so we headed back to the front of the local market for soccer shirts and then all the way back to El Carmen for t-shirts.
Taking a look at my watch, we had quite a bit of time before our pick-up for our tour, so we decided to head over to Hotel Casa Santo Domingo. The young lady at our front desk had told us that the hotel had a museum and ruins within and it was worth making our way there.
At this point, we were a couple of blocks away, so, why not?
Hotel Casa Santo Domingo, a five star hotel, is built within and around the ruins of a cathedral and this forms the basis of a number of museums and art galleries all accessed via the hotel with the one admission price. Though it took some doing to figure out the entrance point, eventually we made our way through hallways until we reached the main lobby and then the grounds… here, we were blown away!
Once the church and convent of Santo Domingo and Santo Tomás de Aquino (Saint Thomas Aquinas) College, there are six museums on the premises in addition to restaurants and the hotel; the Colonial Museum, the Archaeology Museum, the Museum of Pre-Columbian Art and Modern Glass, the Silver Museum, the Pharmacy Museum and the Marco Augusto Quiroa and the Artists Halls.
There were beautiful gardens to walk through and ruins which included the Chapel of the Niches, the Main Cloister and Fountain, the Convent Crypt which contained human remains, the Capitulary Chamber and the Cathedral, which was set up for Easter Sunday Mass.
As we walked around the premises, it was quite surreal to see balconies of hotel rooms and to hear families playing in the adjacent swimming pool.
Around the central courtyard, we watched workers decorate the area around the fountain…using stencils, much like we had just seen at the market, they sprinkled colorful sawdust through the openings, creating unique patterns. This pattern was highlighted with fruits and vegetables, similar to what we had seen at Santuario San Francisco El Grande. Now, it was starting to make sense. Could this be related to the carpets that everyone was talking about?
Leaving Hotel Casa Santo Domingo, we realized that we had just enough time to stop by an awesome little restaurant that we had seen the day before…Antojitos Salvadorenos. Years ago, in Belize, we had papusas for the first time. Over the years, I have made a point of ordering them when available and today was not going to be the exception.
For those who are not familiar with papusas, they are doughy, delicious corn tortillas stuffed with a mixture of meat and cheese and then served with pickled slaw (Curtido) and tangy sauce. This artsy little restaurant, definitely did not disappoint, both price-wise and taste-wise!
Walking quickly, we made it back to our hotel, with just enough time to freshen up and gather what we needed for our volcano hike.
Everything else in Guatemala had so far exceeded our expectations…would the Pacaya volcano do so as well?
To be continued…
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Well, that was me, who basically slept through the earthquake the night before.
I was well rested and ready for our first big day in Antigua…my son, not so much! The earthquake rattled him in more ways than one!
Enjoying a delicious breakfast at our hotel, we then grabbed the necessities and headed out into Antigua’s streets ready to discover everything else there was about this beautiful city.
Our first destination was Cerro de la Cruz (Cross on the Hill). The proprietor of our hotel had shown us pictures and insisted we visit in the morning when the crowds are not as plentiful and the skies are usually clear.
Heading to the other side of town and the road that leads to the overlook, I decided that it would be fun (and less tiresome) to hire a tuk-tuk to take us up the steep drive. Though the tuk-tuk sometimes strained under the precipitous road conditions, we soon pulled into the parking area. Although the driver wanted to wait for us, we sent him on his way as we had already decided to make the hike down after our visit.
The hill provides sweeping views of the city and the magnificent volcano towering over it. In 1930, the famous cross, devoted to the city’s patron saint, was installed on the hill, first created from wood, then later, converted to stone. It is a place where most tourists come to enjoy the views and see the city’s famous landmarks, from above, that they have seen from eye-level. With the city’s grid pattern, it is easy to spot the central Plaza Mayor and make your way around, spotting the Iglesia Merced, the Santa Catalina Arch and many other of Antigua’s monuments amongst the red tiled roofs.
There were a great many vendors selling drinks, snacks and handcrafted items. It was a given that I had to try the shaved ice, something I have loved since I was a child. This one, however, was a bit different from any I have had in the past. After adding the ice to the cup, instead of the usual syrup-y juice usually used, a thick fruit juice was poured in with actual fruit. She then added condensed milk (my fave!) to top it all off! So delicious! It was such a treat to enjoy this local favorite while enjoying the amazing view!
Soon, we decided to hit the trail. Winding downward through the forest, we made our way back down to 1A Avenida. It was startling to see random ruins shadowing everyday life…even a basketball court where teenagers practiced their techniques.
Continuing on our way, we passed colorful buildings, fruit merchants, building decorated for Holy Week, places of business, different modes of transportation and interesting doorways leading to beautiful courtyards. Yes, I was a bit of a voyeur, always peeking in!
Arriving at the gate of the Santuario San Francisco el Grande, we found a hub of activity. Locals selling fruits and nuts lined the wall outside the compound and many vendors filled tents along the inner wall selling candles, handicrafts, clothing and other woven items. Food vendors filled the courtyard and the delicious aroma of typical Guatemalan food filled the air.
Making our way toward the front of the church, it was difficult not to be impressed with its impressive facade. Twisted columns made their way up to the top of the church and carved niches were filled with statues of saints and friars, including the Virgin Mary, San Diego de Alcalá, San Antonio de Padua, San Juan Capistrano, Santa Clara, Santiago, and Santa Isabel from Hungary. The bell and clock towers from the 17th and 19th centuries still remain on the left side of the building, but the right side still exhibits extensive damage from past earthquakes, lending to its mystique.
Since it was Holy Week, many locals entered with us to pray and pay their respects to Santo Hermano Pedro, whose shrine is located within the church. Inside the main part of the church, we found an amazing sight…a long, brightly colored carpet lined with fruits and vegetables, headed by a display depicting a cross-carrying Christ. Unlike anything we had ever seen, we jostled with the crowds to gain a better view of this spectacle.
We learned later that this church is held in very high regard within the city and is used as the starting point of the Calle los Pasos (Steps Street) which holds the Station of the Cross. At three o’clock on Fridays during Lent, with men participating, the statue of Jesus Nazareno is carried on their shoulders from Santuario San Francisco el Grande, stopping at each of the stations and traveling one thousand three hundred and twenty-two steps…exactly the amount Jesus traveled from the praetorian palace to the mount of El Calvario. Women make the same trek on Thursdays during Lent at five o’clock and penance and mass is celebrated after both rituals.
Making our way to the side of the church, we found the tomb of Santo Hermano Pedro (Brother Peter) or Peter of Saint Joseph Betancur, a missionary of Spanish origin who resided in Guatemala. He was beatified in 1980, canonized in 2002 and enshrined at the church. Known as the St. Francis of Assisi of the Americas, he was the founder of the Order of Our Lady of Bethlehem and devoted his life to visiting hospitals, jails and assisting the unemployed and the young. In 1658, he established a hospital for the poor and later a shelter for the poor, a school of the poor, an oratory and an inn for priests. Many miracles have been attributed to Santo Hermano Pedro and a large number of devoted were spied praying to his tomb asking for intercessions.
Walking out of the church, we made our way through the gardens, admiring the shrines, statues, fountains and murals that adorn the area.
Before departing this fascinating religious site, we just stood on the steps for a while and took a look over the entire area. Evident that Holy Week plays such an important part in the lives, the Guatemalans were in a festive spirit and it was a great moment to enjoy their traditional clothing and positive energy.
Heading toward the center of town, we finally went to inspect the Santa Catalina Arch during the daytime hours. Just down the street from La Fonda, where we had dined the night before, we had seen it from afar, lighted as it is during the darkened hours. Today, we wanted to see it lit by the sun. Truly spectacular both ways, it is evident by the throngs of tourists that come here during their visits to take their picture in front of or under the bright yellow span.
One of the most photographed landmarks in the city, it was built in the 17th century and connected the Santa Catalina convent to a school, allowing the cloistered nuns to pass from one building to the other out of public view. During the 1830’s, its beautiful, colonial-era, clock was added to the top, giving it the look that we see today.
Once our photographs were completed, we headed down Avenida Norte, through the arch to our next point of interest, Iglesia de La Merced.
As we approached the beautiful, yellow and white church, we made our way through the festive booths set up for Holy Week, with offerings much like we had seen at Santuario San Francisco el Grande.
Unlike Santuario San Francisco el Grande, however, Iglesia de La Merced appears to be unaffected by earthquakes and has a fascinating architectural history.
When the Mercedarians set out to establish the first convent for men in Ciudad Vieja, their plans were short lived. The convent was wiped out before the construction was complete when a mudslide from the nearby Agua Volcano wiped out the city. The city was relocated to what is now known as Antigua and permission was granted in 1541 for a second church to be built. Forty two years later, the church was finally completed, only to be destroyed by earthquakes. In 1749, architect Juan de Dios Estrada, studied the design failures of the previous architects and set out to adapt traditional baroque designs to survive the instability of the region. Lowering the ceilings, adding thick walls and thicker buttresses made this third church more earthquake resistant and despite the massive earthquake of 1773 (and subsequent earthquakes), the church has remained standing, mostly unaffected.
The facade, flanked by two bell towers, was captivating with its unique stucco work with its Moorish influenced arabesque patterns. Images of the Blessed Virgin Mary of Mercy and other prominent Mercedarians such as St. Pedro Armengol, St. Maria de Cervello and St. Raymundo Nonnatus reside in niches between the elaborately decorated columns and at the top of the church, Pedro Nolasco, the founder of the Order of the Blessed Virgin Mary of Mercy keeps watch on the square below.
At the time of our arrival, the church was not open to visitors and there was much hubbub on the premises as both children and adults entered the convent area, readying themselves for the evening’s Holy Week processions. The convent was open for visitation, however, and we decided that we should not miss out.
Paying our admission, we entered the remains of the convent, making our way to the center where the a large fountain can be admired from both the lower and upper levels. The fountain was designed in the shape of a water lily, a traditional symbol of power for the Mayan people and is said to be the largest in Hispanic America. It is believed that the Mercedarian monks used this fountain to raise fish to supplement their diet.
As we made our way around the courtyard, we took note of the children dressed in the Sunday finest, taking pictures, obviously excited for the upcoming festivities. All around the courtyard, the components of the procession could be spied, ready and waiting for the events to begin.
Making our way up to the top part of the convent, we were amazed at the incredible 360 degree views. All of the nearby volcanoes could be spied, as well as closer views of the bell towers and the city surrounding the church.
Heading eastward from La Merced, our next destination was Santa Teresa de Jesus, a church and convent built between 1677 and 1678 by architect José de Porres for the Discalced Carmelite nuns. As with many of the other religious sites in Antigua, the earthquake of 1717, caused considerable damage to the structure and the earthquake of 1773 resulted in the domes of the convent to collapse.
The Renaissance-styled facade of the church faces Calle Oriente, however, the entrance to the convent, is located around the corner on Alameda Santa Rosa.
A small-scale fountain filled the main courtyard and there were small rooms exhibiting models of the church and convent as it once was and stone carvings rescued from the ruined structures. What we found interesting, when we headed upstairs, however, was that in the United States, if a building was in this condition and had no guard railings and open walls and windows, the building would be considered condemned. Here, you are welcomed in and allowed to walk around at your leisure, inspecting every corner and space. Thankful for this, we took complete advantage and enjoyed our explorations of the convent, discovering that after the destruction from the earthquake, it was abandoned and then occupied by poor families, used as a wine distillery, a place to dry coffee beans and then used as a jail from the 1940’s until 2007.
As the day was coming to a close, we walked by the Mercado de Artesanias El Carmen. The market is adjacent to the old church ruins of El Carmen. Though the ravaged church is not open to visitors, we were able to duck into the market and purchase a few souvenirs.
The last landmark on our itinerary for the day was the Iglesia y Convento de Capuchinas (Church and Convent of the Capuchins), one of the most visited sites in Antigua.
Las Capuchinas, as it is simply known by the locals, is also the nickname of the founding religious order. After the arrival of the Clarissine nuns in Guatemala, they were given approval for construction of the complex from King Phillip V in 1725 with the commencement in 1731. A short five years later, the structure, built in the Renaissance style by architect Diego de Porres, was completed and was the last women’s convent founded in the city.
Today, the convent operates as a tourist attraction and often, a popular wedding venue. As we walked through the main courtyard, we noticed a young girl, bedecked in a flowing gown, awaiting the beginning of her quinceanera, being held on the premises. Those fans of actors Dulé Hill and Jazmyn Symon, might also recognize the convent as the setting of their wedding in May of 2018.
We especially enjoyed the grounds of Las Capuchinas. Though the convent was considered small by comparison to others in the city, with only twenty-five nuns in residence, because of the lavish grounds, I felt as though it was quite larger than the other places we had visited.
The church was accessible to visitors and amazingly still had its roof in place. Though there was not much decoration remaining, it was an amazing space and easy to imagine what it must have looked like during its prime.
Heading to the rear of the complex, we ventured into a circular underground room which historians have speculated was used by the nuns to either store food, practice their singing or pray while walking in circles. A tour guide was present with her clients and we watched as they were instructed to stand on either side of the room and whisper to the wall. Incredibly, the other, so far away, could hear their words! Of course, we had to try!
A circular building at the rear of the property, set among the lavish greenery also caught our attention. Though its purpose was not clear, some have argued that it was designed for spiritual retreats or possibly acted as a chamber for carrying out penance. Other theories advise that it may have been an asylum for older nuns suffering from dementia or even a water storage facility. Within the small archways of this building, there are a couple of displays (complete with mannequin nuns) showing what the nun’s cells might have looked like.
Finally, we made our way back to the main courtyard and climbed to the upper level, looking down on the small fountain which was brought from the former Santa Ines church. The upper level was filled with colorful flowers and had the most serene feeling. No wonder so many choose to exchange their vows here!
As the sun dipped lower in the sky, down past the peaks of the nearby volcanoes, it was time to call it a day. We had seen so many astounding architectural monuments and there was still even more to explore.
More religious processions.
More landmarks.
More Guatemalan delicacies.
Much more Antigua!
Holy Week Procession on Night 2
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Cerro De La Cruz
Address: Antigua Guatemala, Guatemala
Hours: 0800-1800, daily
Admission: free
Getting There: Take 1A Avenida and follow it North. At the base of the inclining hill, you will find the beginning of the hiking trail, marked by a sign welcoming you to Cerro de la Cruz. To your left will be a set of concrete stairs leading into the forest. This is the path that will lead you to the overlook. You can also hire a tuk-tuk for a couple of dollars.
Picking a place to stay while on vacation can be a complicated affair.
While most people book their accommodations far in advance, those of us who travel at the last minute, make decisions based mostly on availability with some input from friends and colleagues, who may have traveled there before, or from hotel and travel websites listing amenities, location and price. Often, I have booked my hotels while standing in the airplane’s jetbridge, boarding my flight or once I am sitting on my flight enroute (praying that WIFI is working) to my destination.
Regardless of when you have booked your room, however, you never know exactly what you are going to get until you actually get there.
After making the decision to travel to Antigua, Guatemala and learning that we would indeed have a seat on the flight, I booked my hotel from the gate before the embarkation process. Using a widely known hotel-booking site, I based my decision on some of the included pictures and price. A few blocks away from the city-center, this particular hotel didn’t appear to be a far walk and it was adjacent to the artisan market and a grocery store. It was Holy Week in the city and many of the hotel prices were inflated due to the influx of visitors to the city. This hotel, however, was still affordable, even though a little more than I had expected to pay, knowing that Antigua’s lodging prices are usually relatively inexpensive.
After our interesting journey from Guatemala City to Antigua, I wasn’t sure that luck was on our side on the day of our arrival, and I was worried about what we would find waiting for us. When we arrived at a wall with the name of our hotel near a doorway, I wasn’t sure what to think. Pressing the button to alert the staff of our arrival, a small window in the wooden door opened up and a face appeared in the opening.
“Can I help you?”
“Yes, we made a reservation earlier in the day?”
“Of course, we were wondering about your arrival time.”
The large, wooden door was unbolted and opened, allowing our access in to a peaceful courtyard.
There was a soothing fountain to our right as we approached the outdoor, front desk and many tables with umbrellas in the courtyard, where I assumed the included breakfast was served.
After our check-in process was completed, we were then escorted through the another courtyard, again with many tables, into a colorful sitting area. Our room was a few feet away and there was a small sitting area just outside our doorway, as well.
Having upgraded to a room with two beds, our space was decently sized, very modern and extremely clean. The simple white linens were highlighted with a dashes of deep colors and dark-stained, reclaimed wood.
The bathroom was immaculate with tile and colored concrete throughout. The most interesting thing, however, was that near the ceiling on the outside wall, the room was open instead of being vented. Hearing the birds chirp while taking a shower or getting dressed was so refreshing…you just had to remember to keep the door closed so as not to let the coolness from the air conditioner escape.
To the right of the bathroom was a sliding door with a small courtyard. Although we could not look out at the city, it was nice to take a seat here and enjoy a drink in the evening or just peek out at the sky in the morning to see what kind of weather was in store for us.
The staff was extremely kind and quick to assist us with booking a trip to the nearby Pataya volcano and with any questions we had regarding the city’s attractions, eating establishments and our return trip to Guatemala City on our final day.
Though our room was not equipped with a small fridge (something I usually look for), the staff eagerly stored some things that we had purchased at the grocery store that needed refrigeration.
We loved talking to the members of the staff who spoke English and I think that they too enjoyed practicing their linguistics each day.
The best part of this awesome little hotel was the breakfast! Each morning, my son and I would step out into the courtyard and order from the small menu that offered about ten different items, from pancakes to omelets…even papusas! These amazing meals were topped off with freshly squeezed orange juice, coffee and sometimes a cup of a local-type of oatmeal…part drink and part meal…I never quite understood what it was, only that it was delicious, as was everything we consumed here.
Because of the travel with my job, I have become so used to the apathetic approach from the staff of the large hotels that I stay in, that it was so touching to see all of the effort that this hotel put forth to make their guests’ stays enjoyable.
When we decided to stay an extra night, knowing the hotel was full, we began to look around the city to find an alternative. The young lady who worked the front desk during the day, began making calls to confirm the soon-to-be-arriving guests and found that a room had actually become available. Our bags were stored as we left that morning and when we arrived that afternoon, we were shown to our new room, where our bags were waiting for us. This room was appointed much like our first, however, only with one bed but with a small balcony facing the front courtyard on the upper floor.
On our first night, we experienced a small earthquake shortly after retiring for the evening. The owner of the hotel was spotted making his way around, making sure that everything and everyone was okay. Probably suspecting that it was our first earthquake, he made a point of making sure that we were fine the next day. In fact, we came to enjoy our conversations with the owner. A friendly man, he was often spotted speaking with many of the guests while attending to his duties.
On our second day, after seeing one of the first of the Holy Week processions that draw thousands of visitors every year, the evening before, we were inquiring about a schedule for these events. He told me that the evening’s processions would not be arriving near the park until around 9:00 pm. Taking our time to get dressed for dinner, we heard a frantic knock on our door. Opening it, we discovered it to be the owner telling us to “Come quick!” The procession was already heading down our street, much earlier than he had stated that afternoon. Slipping on our shoes and heading out to the corner, with still-wet hair, the owner accompanied us, obviously enjoying our delight in the festivities.
Can I say that this has ever happened to me at another hotel that I have stayed in?
Absolutely not.
My husband, an extremely frequent traveler and a high-status member at a world-wide hotel chain, was amazed to hear my stories of this amazing little hotel. I am quite sure that there are many hotels throughout the world that duplicate this kind of service and I have experienced some that have come close. I must admit, however, that if…no…when I return to Antigua, I will be staying at the Hotel Posada de la Luna again.
I assure you…it will not feel like returning to just another hotel.
It will definitely feel like returning home.
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