churches – Page 2 – Snapping The Globe

The Colonial Church

When visiting Peru, there are no shortages of churches in the predominately Catholic country. Some are extremely ornate, others merely plain and simply a place for the devout to bow their heads and pray.

While visiting the Miraflores area of Lima, you can’t help but spot the church of the Virgen of Milagrosa standing proudly in the Central Park of Miraflores, adjacent to Parque Kennedy, especially at night, when lit beautifully.

Built in the last century by architect Ricardo de Jaxa Malachowski, it stands on the site of an older church, San Miguel de Miraflores. Though the beauty of its grand colonial exterior clearly outshines the interior, the interesting stained glass detailing the scenes of life and miracles of Jesus and the image of the Miraculous Virgin, from which its name is derived, on the altar are worth stopping in to pay a visit.

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Iglesia Virgen Milagrosa

Address: Lima 345, Distrito de Lima Lima 18, Peru
Admission: free
Mass Schedule: Monday thru Friday, 0900, 1900, Saturday, 1200, 1800, 1900 and Sunday, 0700, 0930 (mass for parents and children), 1100, 1200, 1800, 1900 and 2000. Confession, Monday thru Friday, 1900 and after Sunday masses.

Passing the Time

Going for a visit to the Anne Frank museum while in Amsterdam? Be prepared for a looooonnnnnggggg wait.

Since the admission line will head down the street and onto the square, Westermarkt, here’s a way to pass the time. If there are a few people in your party, have one person hold your place in the line and the rest of you can duck into the church next door.

Westerkerk, a Reformed church within the Dutch Protestant church was built between 1620 and 1630 according to designs by Hendrick de Keyser and was one of the first purposely built and largest Protestant churches in the Netherlands.

Though very unlike the ornate and beautiful catholic churches we see throughout the world, Westerkerk has a grand, yet simplistic beauty. Walking through the entire structure, take in the large wooden pulpit, carved woodwork, massive chandeliers and the piece that always seems to steal the show in Protestant churches, the organ.

As music was considered profane during the early years of the church, the organ was not part of the interior when the church was consecrated. Located in the rear of the church, the organ’s construction was begun in 1681 by organ builder Roelof Barentszn Duyschot and finished by his son, Johannes. In 1727, the organ was enlarged with a third keyboard and many alterations were done over the years. If you are visiting during the months from April to October, a free weekly lunchtime concert is held on Fridays at one o’clock and a free concert is held almost every day in August where a collection is taken for the costs of the maintenance of the concerts and the organ.

Another smaller, choir organ is also located in the front of the church. This organ, introduced for cantata services was introduced in 1963 by D.A. Flentrop.

One of the most notable items in the church is the memorial shield on the left nave wall, which is a symbolic mark of the grave of the famous Dutch painter, Rembrandt. Living nearby at Rozengracht 184 in extreme poverty, he was buried in an unmarked church grave with several other people in the church. The exact location of his grave remains unknown.

Moving to the outside, the Westerkerk Tower, built in 1638, can be seen from most of the Old City center. Standing 85 meters tall, it is the highest church tower in Amsterdam and can be climbed during the summer months. Lucky enough to have a beautiful, sunny day, I crossed the Prinsengracht Canal, where the steeple and bright blue colored crown can be best viewed. Since the tower has remained municipal property, you may notice a large national flag hanging from the top of the tower on all important days for the city.

Other things that you can check out in the immediate area are the Anne Frank statue located on the Westermarkt and the entrance to the Prinsenhuis, which once served as the entrance to the Westerkerk. The Lord Mayor’s gate is still visible on the Westermarkt side of the church and was once used as a shortcut for the mayors of the city to reach their private stall inside the church (directly opposite the pulpit). The Homomonument is also a popular tourist attraction, commemorating all gay men and lesbians who have been subjected to persecution because of their homosexuality and is located behind the church, at the corner of the Westermarkt and Keizergracht.

Your wait for Anne Frank may be long, but there are a multitude of things you can see to pass the time. Take advantage of all of them!

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Westerkerk Church

http://www.westerkerk.nl/
Address: Prinsengracht 281, 1016 GW Amsterdam, Netherlands
Hours: 1100-1500 every day except Sunday. In October, hours are extended until 1530 and on Saturday, 1000-1730.
Admission: free
Guided climbs of the tower are held from June through September,1000 until 1930, every 30 minutes. Reservations advised. Tower admission, €7 and children under 6 are not admitted.
Every Tuesday from 1200-1300, a carillon concert on 42 bells is played from the Westerkerk Tower.

The Only One

Rome has many basilicas.

Amsterdam…only one.

Arriving in the Dutch capital via Amsterdam Central Station, one of the first landmarks you spy is the Basilica of St. Nicholas. Located to the left, in the Old Town district, its two towers mark the skyline.

Having always noticed this beautiful building, it was my desire to visit one day. Never quite having the time or being able to arrive before closing, due to its restrictive schedule, I realized that its door were open one afternoon, while passing nearby.

Built over 129 years ago, the city’s main Catholic church, was designed by architect, Adrianus Bleijs and was originally called St. Nicholas Inside the Walls as it sat within the oldest part of the Amsterdam defense works. It was elevated to basilica in 2012, during its 125th year of existence, during a celebration of Solemn Vespers.

Combining Neo-Baroque and Neo-Renaissance styles, the church’s exterior is easily recognizable with its two identical towers on either side of the ornate stained glass rose window. A domed baroque octagonal tower is adorned with a large cross. Above the rose window, a statue of St. Nicholas, the patron saint of Amsterdam and seafarers, can be spotted.

The basilica’s mixture of styles is carried on within the recently renovated church. Designed with a three-aisled layout the large baroque dome sits above the crossing.

Two chapels alongside the apse and the nave are devoted to Mary and Joseph and on both sides of the church and high above the altar, sits the crown of Maximilian I, a symbol seen throughout Amsterdam.

Take the time to inspect the beautiful religious murals that line the walls throughout the church, most importantly the 14 Stations of the Cross by Jan Dunselman which were painted from 1891 to 1898. Interestingly, Dunselman used the faces of parishioners as his models preserving their likenesses for future parishioners and relatives to appreciate. Other paintings commemorate the Miracle of Amsterdam and the Martyrs of Gorkum, 19 Catholic figures who were hanged in 1572.

The pulpit, an elaborately designed piece by Pierre Elysee van den Bossche highlights the left of the structure as well as the 19th century Sauer organ at the rear of the church. The German organ was built in 1889 and attracts large numbers of world renowned organists from around the world during the International Organ Concert Series every summer. These musicians treasure the opportunity to not only enjoy the music from this magnificent instrument, but to perform on it as well.

One last thing to note…when leaving the church, take look above you before crossing through the doorway. A beautiful little wooden sailboat hangs silently, reminding us of Amsterdam’s seafaring ancestry and the basilica’s patron saint.

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St. Nicholas Basilica

http://www.nicolaas-parochie.nl/
Address: Prins Hendrikkade 73, 1012 AD Amsterdam
Hours: Monday, 1200-1500, Tuesday-Friday, 1100-1600, Saturday, 1200-1500 and 1630-1745, Sunday 0945-1400 and 1630-1730
Admission: Free
Mass Schedule: Sunday, 1030, High Mass, 1300 High Mass (Spanish), 1700 Gregorian Vespers (Latin), Monday-Saturday, 1230 Mass, (Tuesday-English, Friday-Spanish), Thursday, 1800, Vespers and Mass, Saturday, 1700, Choral Evensong, English

Calling All Dan Brown Fans

A note on display in the church of St. Sulpice in Paris reads:

Contrary to fanciful allegations in a recent best-selling novel, this (the line in the floor) is not a vestige of a pagan temple. No such temple ever existed in the place. It was never called a Rose Line. It does not coincide with the meridian traced through the middle of the Paris Observatory which serves as a reference for maps where longitudes are measured in degrees East or West of Paris. Please also note that the letters “P” and “S” in the small round windows at both ends of the transept refer to Peter and Sulpice, the patron saints of the church, and not an imaginary “Priory of Sion”.

If you are a fan of Dan Brown’s 2003 novel, The Da Vince Code, then, this note will make complete sense. Since the release of the international bestseller and the subsequent movie, crowds of tourists have flocked to Saint-Sulpice, in the City of Lights, to see the Rose Line.

Admittedly, though a fan of churches, this is the real reason that I decided to visit St. Sulpice…not because it is the second largest church in the city (behind Notre Dame), not because the Marquis de Sade was baptized here or even to hear the renowned organists.

I wanted to see what the heck Dan Brown was talking about!

St. Sulpice, a Roman Catholic church in the Luxembourg Quarter, was founded in 1646 by parish priest Jean-Jacques Olier and the first stone was laid by Anne of Austria.

The Late Baroque church was built over the span of a decade with construction beginning in 1646. Various architects contributed to the multitude of designs and the interior structure was completed in 1745. Damaged and turned into a Temple of Victory during the Revolution, it was restored and redecorated in the 19th century.

Known for being the site of the christenings of Marquis de Sade and Charles Baudelaire and the wedding of author Victor Hugo, it is also known for its resplendent artwork and chapels.

Most noteworthy are the Delacroix frescoes in the Chapel of the Angels and Servandoni’s Rococo Chapel of the Madonna, with a Pigalle statue of the Virgin. Another chapel contains the tomb of Curé Languet de Gergy who founded the world’s first pediatric hospital and oversaw the completion of the house of worship. To the right of the entrance, take note of the two halves of an enormous shell. Functioning as holy water fonts, these were given to King Francis I by the Venetion Republic and rest on rock-like bases sculpted by Jean-Baptiste Pigalle.

The main focus of the church is its organ. One of the world’s largest, with 6,588 pipes, it was constructed by Aristide Cavaille-Coll, the case was designed by Chalgrin and the statues were made by Clodion. Having been played by many famous musicians, it is still known for its music and many concerts are still held in St. Sulpice to this day.

Once you’ve checked out these fascinating aspects of the church, it is time to see what Dan Brown referred to in his book.

Near the middle of the nave on the right side, near a stone statue with a Latin inscription, look for the meridian line…a narrow brass strip that runs north across the nave and transept to an obelisk next to the statue of St. Peter. Used to study the planets and determine the date of Easter each year, it works when the sun’s rays enter the church through a small opening in the south transept and rest on the line at various points throughout the year. On the winter solstice, the rays hit the obelisk. On the spring and autumn equinoxes, the rays hit the bronze table.

The Da Vinci Code depicts an important scene in St. Sulpice which takes place around the meridian line. An albino monk. Silas, searches for a keystone which is believed to unlock the secret of the Holy Grail. In the book, the meridian line is described as the Rose Line and explained as being the original zero-longitude line which passed through Paris before being moved to Greenwich, England. The monk, follows the line to the obelisk, only to find that he was misled in his search.

The meridian line was easy to find and there were many other visitors also taking a peek.

Envisioning the scene, it took me back to 2003 when I read the book in two days, so captivated by its story. I almost expected to see Silas, not only a monk, but an assassin, attacking Sister Sandrine!

Captivated by St. Sulpice, I spent more time walking around its interior and making sure not to miss any part of its beauty and history.

Exiting the building, I longed to see the fountain, designed by Visconti and which bears the sculptures of the four bishops of the Louis XIV era…Fenelon, Massillon, Bossuet and Flechier, however, a Christmas market was being set up in the square in front of the church. The area around the fountain and market was barricaded, not only prohibiting a close-up look at the fountain, but a wider-angled views of the façade of the church and its two mismatched towers.

When in the Luxembourg Quarter, in the 6th arrondissement, follow the signs (or the Rose Line!) to St. Sulpice. Dan Brown or not, it is a church most worth visiting in Paris!

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St. Sulpice Church

http://pss75.fr/saint-sulpice-paris/
Address: Place Saint-Sulpice, 2, rue Palatine, 75006 PARIS
Hours: Daily, 0730-1930
Admission: free
Masses are held Monday-Saturday, 0700, 0900, 1205, and 1845; Sunday, 0700, 0900, 1030, 1205, 1845
How to Get There: Metro stop, Saint-Sulpice. Buses 58, 63, 70, 86, 87, 89, and 95 stop near the church.

The Church and the Tower

What if you woke up to this every day?

Visiting a friend in the Lower Town of Brussels, I was amazed when I looked out of her window and saw that this was her every-day view…the Gothic St. Catherine’s church!

This beautiful church (also known as the Eglise Sainte-Catherine and Sint-Katelijnekerk) is located about a ten minute walk from the Grand Place. It was built on the site of the former fish market and today faces the site of a regular market where you can find typical Belgian products such as seafood, cheese and local vegetables.

St. Catherine’s was originally built in the 15th century but completely redesigned between 1854 and 1859 by the famous artist Joseph Poelaert who was inspired by the Église St Eustache in Paris. The only part left of the 15th century church is the Baroque tower which was added in 1629 and is located aside the church.

The interior of the church contains many baroque artworks, including a small statue of the Black Madonna, dating back to the 14th century, at the left side of the altar. Other notable items are a Flemish pulpit and two beautiful tombs carved by Gilles-Lambert Godecharle and a portrait of Saint Catherine.

After your visit to St. Catherine’s church is complete make sure to check out the Tour Noire (Black Tower) located on the side of the NH Hotel and diagonal from St. Catherine’s. This 12th century tower, still stands strong and is the lone surviving part of the ancient stone city walls.

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St. Catherine’s Church

http://eglisesaintecatherine.be/
Address: Pl. Sainte-Catherine, 1000 Brussels
Hours: Monday thru Saturday, 0900-2000, Sunday, 0930-1900
Admission: free
Getting There: Located about 10 minutes from the Grand Place, it is a nice walk but can also be reached by metro, Ste-Catherine stop.

The Beginning of the End

My last day.

All of the planning, the travels and endless sightseeing was coming to an end here in Ho Chi Minh City.

Later in the evening, I would be leaving Ho Chi Minh City and Vietnam for the long trip home. Ho Chi Minh City to Singapore. Singapore to Narita, Japan. Narita to Minneapolis. Minneapolis to New York. New York to Richmond. Whew! It was going to be an exhausting trip, so knowing I was going to be out sightseeing all day, in the oppressive heat, I was concerned about being able to freshen up before heading to the airport. After contemplating making a move in the morning to a cheaper hotel or hostel, I explained my plight to the attendant at the front desk of the Lan Lan Hotel. Though they had not been all too friendly since I had arrived, I think she took pity on me. Offered a half-day’s rate with a departure of 6:00 in the evening meant that I could leave everything in my room and take a shower before my departure.

Since my hotel dilemma was no longer a problem, I was able to set out early and see what the city had to offer.

The Mariamman Hindu Temple was only a couple of blocks away and was my first destination. A very colorful and interesting place, filled with vibrant deity sculptures, it serves the small community of Chinese and Vietnamese Tamil Hindus living in the city. This temple is rumored to have miraculous powers giving luck and wealth to those who worship within its walls and was filled with the devout as I walked through its doors.

Built at the end of the 19th century, the building features a royal tower at the entrance which stands twelve meters high. To the left of the entrance sits the Gods and Goddesses, Shiva, Kali, Brahma and Vishnu and at an altar in the center of the temple is a statue of the Goddess Mariamman.

This was my first visit to a Hindu temple and I enjoyed visiting something very different than I had ever experienced. My favorite part, however, were the little ladies, fascinated with my make-up, who all wanted to take pictures with me.

Leaving the Hindu temple, I noticed a pagoda on my map a few blocks away. The Xá Lợi Pagoda, the largest pagoda in Ho Chi Minh City, was built in 1956 and was the headquarters of Buddhism in South Vietnam. Best known for being raided and vandalized by the Army of the Republic of Vietnam Special Forces in 1963, it did not appear to be open and was not as lavish and ornate as some of the others I had seen on my journey, although it is known to have the highest bell tower in Vietnam. The grounds on which it sat left a lot to be desired, leaving me a bit disappointed that I had walked out of my way, unnecessarily, to visit. Snapping a few pictures, I then decided to make the long walk to the Jade Emperor Pagoda.

One of the five most important shrines in Ho Chi Minh City, Jade Emperor Pagoda, also known as the Tortoise Pagoda, was built in 1909 in honor of the supreme Taoist god, the Jade Emperor or King of Heaven, Ngoc Hoang.

When entering the temple, the first thing you notice is how dimly lit and smoky the atmosphere is as a great amount of incense is being burned to honor the gods. That being said, the main hall is very intriguing showcasing surrealistic divinities. Filled with exquisite woodcarvings, the main sanctuary features the Emperor Jade Chua Hoang (the God of the Heavens) flanked by his guardians, the Four Big Diamonds (aptly named because they are said to be as hard as diamonds) and menacing Taoist figures made of reinforced paper mache.

Many locals visit the shrine, making offerings of flowers, lighting candles and joss sticks and the limited space in the temple can feel a little cramped. When departing the temple, stop by the small pond filled with turtles and check out the shells that have been inscribed with auspicious inscriptions.

Saigon Central City Post Office was my next stop, and no, I did not have to mail a letter!

The Saigon Central Post Office is one of the most renowned examples of architecture in Ho Chi Minh City and is a must see for any visitor. Designed by Gustave Eiffel, more commonly known for designing the Statue of Liberty and the Eiffel Tower, it is recognized as the grandest post office in all of Southeast Asia.

Constructed between 1886 and 1891, the colonial ochre-colored facade is enhanced by arched windows, green wooden shutters and a beautiful clock which still works to this day. Inscribed on the facade are the names and faces of those responsible for the timepiece invention, including President of the United States, Benjamin Franklin, Italian inventor Alessandro Volta, British physicist Michael Faraday, French mathematician Andre-Marie Ampere and many others. There are also inscriptions dedicated to those responsible for discoveries and advances in the field of electricity.

The gasp-worthy interior will, at first, remind you of a train station, which was indeed, Eiffel’s inspiration. Glancing upward, you will notice the high, looping arches and the spectacular dome of gilded capitals resting on green metal pillars. The intricately designed marble floors are representative of antique maps and the dark wood telephone booths that line the front of the building on each side, are reminders of the role the post office played before email and mobile phones were commonplace. Two maps of the region, which show telegraph lines that crisscross Vietnam and Cambodia and the Saigon region in 1992 are painted on the walls overhead. So beautiful and so French inspired, it is easy to forget where you really are. Don’t worry, the large portrait of Ho Chi Minh hangs high above everything at the far end of the building, reminding you that you are still in Vietnam.

In addition to being a fascinating glimpse into history, the Saigon Central Post Office is a fully functioning post office. Take the time to send a postcard to your family and friends using the old fashioned glue pots still in use for sticking stamps to letters. After sending off your missive, you can even do a little souvenir shopping in the two wings at the front of the building which sell everything from t-shirts and hats, to statues and books.

My next stop was not far…just across the street. The Saigon Notre-Dame Basilica was a place that I very much wanted to visit. As I was leaving the Post Office and glancing at the clock, however, I noticed that it was half past noon. Verifying the opening time at Notre Dame’s entrance, I realized that I had just missed the morning hours and it would be two and a half more until it reopened. If I were to come back, I would have to be here exactly for the reopening. It would be tight. Just in case that I did not make it, I decided to take some pictures of the exterior and move on a few blocks to the Reunification Palace.

Formerly known as the Independence Palace, this landmark served as a presidential home and workplace and remains in the locals’ minds as a marked end to the war, when a North Vietnamese tank crashed its gates on April 30, 1975.

The building has an open, modern feel and its functional rooms remind one of the many meetings and conferences that took place here. On the premises, however, you can view the F5E fighter plane which bombed the palace on April 8, 1975 and the tank which destroyed the palace gate.

The Palace, taking up so much more time than I had planned, left me a little confused as what to do next. I was halfway between the Street Food Market, which was where I had planned to have lunch and Notre Dame Basilica. It wasn’t time for the churches reopening, yet I was starving. Deciding to have lunch and hope that I would have enough time to cover the distance back to the church, I headed toward the Street Food Market. After my lunch and analyzing the time, I deciding that I was hot and tired and really needed to purchase some souvenirs at the Ben Thanh Market. Unfortunately, Notre Dame was not meant to be.

Thankfully, it was a productive trip to the Ben Thanh Market where I managed to find some items that had eluded me during the trip.

Finally, it was back to my room and time to pack up for my departure. My suitcase was bursting, but I somehow managed to get everything into it and myself dressed and ready to go. Feeling fresh and revived, I made my way downstairs and decided to try using Uber, since a friend had reminded me as to how cheap it was in Ho Chi Minh City.

Now, I have to tell you. My luck with Uber has not been good in the past. Determined to make it work for me, I used the app and waited for my vehicle. Watching each of the cars that slowed near my hotel, I began thinking that this particular brand of car was not familiar to me. Slowly, I began to wonder… Yes, I realized that I had screwed up again. Not realizing that Moto X was indeed motorcycle transportation, not an actual car, this is what pulled in to pick me up. At this point, all I could do was laugh. This was a crazy end to my trip.

Somehow, with my purse on my shoulder, hat hanging from his handlebars, putting my tote between his legs and my suitcase between us, we were on our way. Feeling a few raindrops and holding on for dear life, I prayed that I made it to my flight unscathed and dry, though feeling the pollution sink into my pores, from the copious amounts of traffic, I realized that I would not be feeling as fresh as I had been just before my motorcycle journey.

Nevertheless, two hours later as I was boarding my flight and laughing at the absurdity of the beginning of the end of my long journey home, I only wished that I could have had a picture. Truly, had I become almost Vietnamese, traversing the streets on a motorbike with my luggage? Not quite…but it was a fitting end to the crazy adventure that I had sought out on my own. One that I will never forget.

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Mariamman Hindu Temple

Address: 45 Trương Định, Bến Thành, Quận 1, Hồ Chí Minh, Vietnam
Hours: 0700-1900, daily.
Admission: free
Dress conservatively and remove shoes before entering.

Xá Lợi Pagoda

http://www.chuaxaloi.vn/
Address: 89B Bà Huyện Thanh Quan, 7th Ward, Quận 3, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam
Hours: 0700-1900, daily.
Admission: free

Jade Emperor Pagoda

Address: 73 Mai Thi Luu St., Dakao Ward, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam
Hours: 0700-1700, daily
Admission: free

Saigon Central Post Office

http://hcmpost.vn/Main1/Default.aspx
Address: 2 Công xã Paris, Bến Nghé, Quận 1, Hồ Chí Minh, Vietnam
Hours: 0700-1900
Admission: free

Notre Dame Cathedral

https://giothanhle.net/gio-le/nha-tho-duc-ba-sai-gon
Address: 1, Công xã Paris, Bến Nghé, District 1, Ho Chi Minh, Vietnam
Opening Hours: 0800-110 and 1500-1730, Monday through Saturday
Mass Hours: Sunday, 0530, 0630, 0730, 0930, 1600, 1715, 1830
Admission: free

Reunification Palace (Independence Palace)

http://www.dinhdoclap.gov.vn/
Address: 135 Nam Kỳ Khởi Nghĩa, Bến Thành, Quận 1, Hồ Chí Minh, Vietnam
Hours: 0800-1100, 1300-1730
Admission: 20,000 Vietnamese Dong (about USD .90)

Lan Lan Hotel

http://lanlanhotel.com.vn/en/
Address: 73-75 Thủ Khoa Huân, Bến Thành, Quận 1, Hồ Chí Minh, Vietnam

Hanoi, Leaving No Stone Unturned

The streets of Hanoi were calling…

With so many things left to see in Vietnam’s capital, even though I was exhausted from the long trip the day before, rising early was a must! As I walked along P. Hang Ga, I learned that being up and out early had its advantages…the sidewalks were not as crowded, making it much easier to reach my first destination, Hoa Lo Prison Museum.

Hoa Lo Prison was built in 1896 by the French and was intended to house only 450 inmates. The inmate population eventually exceeded that number, however, and terrible housing conditions resulted. Many died within its confines, but without adequate security, many escaped the prison walls over the years.

The museum focuses mainly on the prison’s use during the French occupation up until the mid-1950s, during Vietnam’s struggle to gain independence. Many displays show the deplorable conditions in which the prisoners lived and the punishments they received. A French guillotine is showcased in one of the rooms and many cells are open for inspection. There is also a memorial in the courtyard dedicated to the Vietnamese prisoners.

Two rooms also concentrate on the American pilots who were incarcerated in the prison during the American War (as it is called in Vietnam). The U.S. POW’s referred to the prison as the Hanoi Hilton and after analyzing the many photos, it seemed as though the American prisoners were treated well, though from prisoners accounts, we have learned that was far from the truth. American pilots that were incarcerated included Pete Peterson (the first U.S. ambassador to a unified Vietnam in 1995) and Senator John McCain (Republican nominee for the U.S. Presidency in 2008). Senator McCain’s flight suit is displayed as well as photos of the Hanoi locals rescuing him from Truc Bach Lake.

After leaving Hoa Lo prison, a short walk took me to the Ambassadors’ Pagoda (Quán Sứ Temple) in the French Quarter area of Hanoi. The well-maintained pagoda is the official headquarters of Buddhism in Hanoi. The pagoda received its name during the 17th century when there was a guesthouse that housed the ambassadors of Buddhism from other countries. Today, residents hold “send-off” ceremonies for the souls of recently deceased family members and government officials frequently make visits to the pagoda.

Deciding to walk a short ways through the French Quarter area, I circled Thien Quang Lake and headed back north to St. Joseph’s Cathedral, stopping to purchase some delicious donuts from a local Vietnamese woman. She obviously thought I need fattening up as she filled the bag completely. I had to ask her to take donuts out of the bag four times to get to the amount that I desired!

Eating my snack as I walked, I soon arrived at the Neo-Gothic Cathedral. Noticing that the main entrance was blocked off, I admired the soaring facade with its twin bell towers and took pictures from its plaza. Assuming that entry was only available during Mass-times, I continued my journey, only to find later that entry was available through the Diocese of Hanoi compound, a block away.

Arriving in the Hoan Kiem Lake area, I first noticed the Thang Long Water Puppet Theater. Not quite understanding what a water puppet show entailed, I had heard that the shows were quite nice and something that all visitor’s to Hanoi should see. Proceeding to the ticket counter, I purchased a ticket to the next show. Having more than an hour before my performance, I decided to do a little shopping and visit the Ngoc Son Temple which sits in the middle of Hoan Kiem Lake.

Ngoc Son (Temple of the Jade Mountain) is reached by entering the Tam Quan (Three-Passage Gate) and crossing the red wooden bridge called The Huc (Rising Sun), to the its location on the Jade Islet. In the 16th-18th centuries, a country villa was located on the islet and used by the Trinh mandarins when boating on the lake. In the 19th century, the temple had many different uses, but currently, it is dedicated to Tran Hung Dao, a 13th century Vietnamese national hero, scholar Van Xuong and to Nguyen Van Sieu a Confucian master who restored and expanded the temple in 1864.

There are a few buildings to visit in the temple, the Pen Tower, Dai Nghien, the Moon Contemplation Pavilion and the Pavilion Against Waves, all of which have symbolic meaning. Once you have spent time within the temple, take time to observe the lake from this unique perspective. If you are early enough in the morning, catch the sunrise from the bridge and throughout the day, watch for a giant turtle head floating above the water…a sign of good luck.

Leaving the busy temple, I headed back to the Thang Long Water Puppet Theater. Taking my seat in the middle of the theater, I marveled at the musicians accompanied by the cheo singers who chant the story and warn the puppets of danger. Although I watched closely, I could never figure out how the puppets danced above the water. Reading up on the art of Vietnamese puppetry, I did learn that the guilds closely preserve the secrets of their craft…so, I guess I will never know. Enjoying something I had never experienced. it was also nice to be away from the heat of the day and have a chance to rest my feet.

The next point on my map was Ngôi Nhà di Sản (The Heritage House). A small inconspicuous building on Ma May Street, I actually walked past it a couple of times before realizing its location. One of the few intact remains of an old-style home in Hanoi, it is an excellent glimpse into how Hanoi’s residents once lived.

Further down the street from the Heritage House is the oldest temple in Hanoi, Bach Ma. Also known as the White Horse Temple, it was built in the 11th century by the order of King Ly Thai To, the governor of Hanoi. Everything you see today, however, dates from the late 18th century when the temple was restored. Arriving at the end of the day, the woman in charge of the temple was closing up, but saw me approaching and invited me in. She kindly allowed me to look through the entire building without feeling rushed.

The final things on my Hanoi “To Do” list were not far in the Old Quarter. Navigating the crowded and narrow streets, I first made my way to the Old City Gate. Somehow, I lost my bearings and was not sure which direction to turn. With the help of a shopkeeper, I was pointed in the right direction and soon found the landmark. In 1010, the thick city walls protected the city’s interior and the king and his court. Access to the city was by four gates, only one of which remains today. The gate still stands strong and motorbikes ride through the openings throughout the day.

Walking through the gates, I came to the highway and crossed over using the covered walkway. Spanning 4 km of the Song Hong dyke, is the Hanoi Ceramic Road. Completed in 2010 for Hanoi’s 1000th birthday celebration, it is comprised of scene’s depicting different periods in Vietnam’s history. I first saw this mural upon my arrival into the city and then again while on the bus to Ha Long Bay. It is wonderful to see the craftsmanship up close, though a little disconcerting with the traffic flying by.

Finally, my checklist was complete. Everything that I had set out to do and see in the country’s capital was now stored away in my memory and on my camera’s SD card. It was time to move on. It would be an early morning as I set out for my next Vietnamese adventure…Hoi An.

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Hoa Lo Prison Museum

http://hoalo.vn/
Address: 1 Hoả Lò, Trần Hưng Đạo, Hoàn Kiếm, Hà Nội, Vietnam
Hours: 0800-1130 and 1330-1700, daily. Self-guided tours, signs in English, Vietnamese and French
Admission: 10,000 Vietnamese dong (about US 50 cents)

Ambassadors’ Pagoda

http://www.hynostravel.com/attractions/ambassadors-pagoda-hanoi-vietnam/
Address: 73 Quán Sứ, Trần Hưng Đạo, Hoàn Kiếm, Hà Nội, Vietnam
Hours: 0900-1700, daily
Admission: free
Modest dress required

Thang Long Water Puppet Theater

http://thanglongwaterpuppet.org/en/
Address: 57b Dinh Tien Hoang Street, Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi, Vietnam
Hours: Summer, 1610, 1720, 1830, 2000, Winter, 1500, 1610, 1720, 1830, 2000 and 2115, Sunday morning 0930
Admission: Adults, 100,000 Vietnamese Dong (about US $4.50), Children (under 1.2 meter), 60,000 Vietnamese Dong (about US $2.70). Assigned seating.

Ngoc Son Temple

http://www.hynostravel.com/attractions/ngoc-son-temple-hanoi-vietnam/
Address: Dinh Tien Hoang St., Hanoi 100000, Vietnam, Hoan Kiem Lake
Hours: 0730-1700, daily
Admission: 30,000 Vietnamese Dong (about US $1.35)

Heritage House

Address: 87 Ma May Street, Hanoi, Vietnam
Hours: 0830-1700, daily, closed during the lunch hour
Admission: 10,000 Vietnamese Dong (about US $.50)

Bach Ma Temple

Address: 13 Hàng Giấy, Hàng Buồm, Hoàn Kiếm, Hà Nội, Vietnam
Hours: 0700-1100 and 1400-1700
Admission: free

Old City Gate

Address: 56 Hàng Chiếu, Đồng Xuân, Hoàn Kiếm Đồng Xuân Hoàn Kiếm Hà Nội, Vietnam, Vietnam
Hours: Open always
Admission: free

Hanoi Ceramic Mosaic Mural

Address: Ấp Thạnh Vinh, Phúc Xá, Ba Đình, Hà Nội, Vietnam
Hours: Open always
Admission: free

Did You See George’s House?

George Clooney. Actor. Filmmaker. Two-time Sexiest Man Alive (according to People Magazine). Husband to Amal Alamuddin Clooney. Owner of a villa at Lake Como.

Funny how people zero in on certain aspects of other’s lives. We know a few things about many celebrities, but why does everyone happen to know that George Clooney owns a house on Lake Como? Does the average person know where Johnny Depp’s homes are located? How about Brad Pitt’s? However, when you say that you’ve been to Lake Como, everyone asks if you’ve seen George’s house.

Lake Como, a tourist destination, is well known for the many villas and palaces built on its shores. An attraction for aristocrats and the wealthy since Roman times, many famous people, such as Madonna, Gianni Versace, Sylvester Stallone and Richard Branson, have or have had homes overlooking the pristine lake.

Located about an hour outside of Milan, by train, Lake Como is a nice respite from the hustle and bustle of Italy’s fashion capital. Taking the train from Milan is quite easy, but first, you must decide which part of the lake you want to visit. All parts of the lake can be accessed from Como via ferry, but if you wish to visit Varenna and Bellagio, you may also take the train from Milan directly to Varenna and then a ferry to Bellagio.

Personally, I like to start in Como and take the ferry to other parts of the lake, especially if it is a beautiful day. The scenery is breathtaking and the ride usually smooth. Start by taking the train from Milano Nord Cadorna station and head to Como Nord Lago. Once you have reached the Como Nord Lago station, it is a short picturesque walk along the lake front to the ferry terminal, Navigazioni Lago di Como. After purchasing tickets, wait for the appropriate ferry at the designated dock.

If you know which town you would like to visit, you may purchase a one-way fare or return ticket. If you would like to check out a few towns along the way, it is possible to purchase a one-day pass which allows you on-off access to the ferry throughout the day with return to the original port.

While waiting for the ferry, you can take in the sights along the waterfront.

The first time I visited Lake Como, my destination was Bellagio, about a one-hour trip on the fast ferry and a two-hour trip on the slower boat. A beautiful town, it was perfect for walking around, visiting the many shops, lunch and taking a multitude of photos.

Most recently, traveling with a group, our destination was Torno, Italy, about 5 kilometers northeast of Como. Our ferry had open deck access which allowed us to stand or sit in the front or back of the vessel. Using my telephoto lens, I was able to capture the beauty of the many towns spread out along the lake’s shores as well as up close when we stopped at other towns to pick up additional passengers.

Arriving in Torno, we were captivated by the small-town beauty spread out before us. Colorful boats lined the very small harbour and the Romanesque church of St. Tecia, with its large Gothic rose window stood majestically before us.

A couple of small restaurants, Bar Italia and Ristorante Vapore preside along the harbour and offer both indoor and outdoor seating. Deciding on the Ristorante Vapore, we were not disappointed in their menu offering a wide variety of salads, pasta dishes and seafood as well as extensive wine offerings. Sitting outside and enjoying our delectable fare, we were enthralled with the spectacular views and the ever changing light as the sun danced around the clouds.

After our exquisite lunch, we each set out to explore the immediate area, including the church and the small alleys and pathways radiating from the waterfront.

With the arrival of our ferry, we were soon on our way back to Como and our train to Milan.

Should you wish to spend time in the town of Como, some suggestions include the Cathedral of Como, Basilica di Sant’Abbondio, Piazza Cavour, Teatro Sociale and the Funicular Como-Brunate. The latter, a charming train, offers striking panoramic views of the Lake, Como’s historic center and the Alps in a seven minute journey to Brunate, a town located 700 meters above sea level and the starting point of numerous nature walks.

A visit to Lake Como is a must when visiting the Milan area. With much to explore around the lake, spending a few days may be more suited to your liking with many options to suit different budgets and requirements.

And be sure, when you get back, someone WILL ask you if you saw George’s house!

For more pictures check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Lake Como

Train information: http://www.trenitalia.com/tcom-en Train tickets cost approximately €10 roundtrip for Second class and €15 for First class from Milano Nord Cadorna to Como Nord Lago.
Ferry information: http://www.navigazionelaghi.it/eng/c_illago.html
Como Brunate Funicular: http://www.funicolarecomo.it.

A Synagogue Second To None

Rushing to make the train to Karlstejn, I walked quickly, head bowed, with a quick glance to my watch ever couple of minutes. Passing down Jerusalem Street, nothing in the immediate area caught my preoccupied glances.

Taking the same route, in reverse, later that evening, at a much slower pace, I took in the astounding architecture that lies at every corner. Turning onto Jerusalem Street, with an upward glance…

“Whoa! How did I not see that this morning?”

Hard to miss for its Moorish Revival form and Art Nouveau decoration, the colorful Jubilee Synagogue of Prague looks like something out of Disney and beckons tourists to enter. Really, how could you not, especially if you are a fan of Aladdin!

The Jubilee Synagogue was built in 1906 and designed by Wilhelm Stiastny. It was named in honor of the silver Jubilee of Emperor Franz Joseph I of Austria, however, since Czechoslovakia became independent in 1918, it has been called the Jerusalem Synagogue for the street it is located on.

Open as a house of worship for over a century, except for the period of Nazi German occupation when it was used to store confiscated Jewish property, the Synagogue is now open, during part of the year, to tourists and those interested in its incredible architecture.

Not the oldest synagogue in the city, nor located in the Jewish quarter of the city, Josefov, it is noted for being the largest place of worship in the city and certainly the most colorful. Because it is sandwiched between two tenement building, it stands out all the more. After entering through the horseshoe arches on the facade and paying your admittance fee, surprisingly, you are met with a basilica type triple-nave style with two transverse wings in which churches are usually built.

My suggestion is to take a seat and take a look…up, down, forward, backward…everywhere.

The nave and the gallery are illuminated by large stained-glass windows both in the walls and the ceiling. The large central arch frames a rosette window with the Star of David. In addition, wrought chandeliers hang throughout the building. Many diverse paintings adorn the walls and a large organ is located on the western tribune. The high Ark is adorned with a vine leaf motif and the tablets of the Ten Commandments.

After your tour of the bottom level is complete, make your way upstairs to the women’s gallery, where you will find an exhibition on the synagogue, describing its history and construction, how it withstood World War II and the changes to the Jewish community in Prague throughout history.

While not on the regular Prague Jewish Quarter and Synagogue tours, find your way to the Jerusalem Synagogue. Not like anything you have ever seen, I promise you will be amazed that something like this exists in Prague…even Europe. If you are visiting during the busy summer months (when it is open) you will also appreciate that with it not being on the usual touristy paths, it is somewhat quiet. More of a reason to visit and appreciate its beauty, architecture and history!

Check out more pictures on Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Jerusalem Synagogue

http://www.synagogue.cz/cs/jerusalem-synagogue-page/
Address: Jeruzalemska 7, Prague 1
Hours: April 23-October 31, daily, 1300-1700
Admission: 50 CZK (about $2.00)
Getting There: Take a tram no. 3, 9, 14 or 24 to stop Jindrisska. Turn to Jeruzalemska Street just opposite the stop. You can also get there on foot from the Wencelas Square via Jindrisska street.
Regular Prayer Service: Fridays at 2000 (April-September), Saturdays at 0900 (year round)

Baroque and Beautiful

“I am a sucker for a beautiful church.”

Anyone who has read through my blog, knows this statement to be entirely true. Actually, I love all religious institutions, for their differences in ornamentation, their unique history and for the many beliefs and people that they represent. I love basilicas, chapels, cathedrals, synagogues, temples, mosques and pagodas. When I see a church, I want to see the interior…what makes it different from others that I have visited? Does it have a saint interred there? Relics on display? Beautiful stained glass? Paintings by a famed artist? Maybe this has a lot to do with the fact that I studied architecture in college…or maybe it has to do with my love of photography and all of the beautiful photographic opportunities each building offers…maybe it has to do with the fact that entry into most institutions is free and therefore, easy on the touristy pocketbook!

The Church of St. Nicholas, the most famous Baroque church in Prague, is located in the center of the Lesser Town Square. Not to be confused with the other two St. Nicholas churches in Prague, one of which is located in Old Town Square, it is a most prominent and distinctive landmark with it’s green dome is visible from all over the city. I have walked by it countless times, but usually in transit to another destination with no extra time to stop and visit.

Upon entering the Church of St. Nicholas, we found that this particular institution does charge an admission fee for entry, unlike many others, however, at a cost of 70 CZK (about $3.00 U.S.) it’s not an extremely hefty one. Still, I do not agree with paying to see the inside of a church that has an active congregation. Paying a few dollars to see the inside of a well renowned landmark will not kill me, but hey, free is free!

After stepping away from the ticket counter and preparing my camera, we began making our way into the church. I think I held my breath a little in anticipation of what we would find as we stepped inside. And there it was! Worth the 70 CZK admission? You bet!

The construction of the Church of St. Nicholas began in 1703, lasted approximately one hundred years and employed three generations of great Baroque architects…father, son and son-in-law…Kryštof Dientzenhofer, Kilián Ignác Dientzenhofer and Anselmo Lurago. It was used by the Russian orthodox congregation from 1870-1914, used as a warehouse and housed a garrison at one time.

When entering, your eyes venture upward toward the ceiling and the 70 meter high dome which is decorated with a magnificent fresco of the Celebration of the Holy Trinity by Franz Palko. Other frescos by Jan Lukas Kracker are also worth closer inspection. After heading upstairs, you have a closer view of the grand ceiling fresco and the nave from the viewing gallery that runs along the left side of the church.

The interior is richly decorated with sculptures by František Ignác Platzer, many paintings and the side chapels abundantly adorned in gold.

The main organ, with a beautiful fresco of St. Cecilia, patron saint of music, above it, was built from 1745-1747. It has over 4,000 pipes up to six meters in length and was most famously played by Mozart during his stay in Prague in 1787.

The belfry was the last part of St. Nicholas to be built and was constructed by Anselmo Lurago from 1751-1756, though designed by his father in law. As high as the church’s adjacent dome, it does not actually belong to the church but rather the Lesser Town. Interestingly, the tower was used during the 1960’s by the state police to spy on the western countries embassies nearby. This I learned, was something interesting to see, despite the additional climb, but it wasn’t until after our visit that we learned that it was included in our admission. (Nor did we ever see the entrance) Reading up on the church’s history after our trip, I discovered that visitors are allowed to ascend the tower’s 215 steps, during the day, to experience the splendid views over Malá Strana and across the Vltava River to the Old Town.

The Church of St. Nicholas is not to be missed in Prague, the Czech Republic or even Europe. One to rival anything that I have visited previously, it is worth the price of admission..maybe even a bit more. Allow plenty of time to explore the church in it’s entirety…just don’t miss the tower! I’ve already put aside my 70 CZK so that I can stop in and check it out on my next visit!

Check out more pictures on Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

St. Nicholas Church

http://www.stnicholas.cz/
Address: St. Nicholas Church Lesser Town Square, Lesser Town Square, Lesser Town, Prague 1, Czech Republic
Hours: March-October, 0900-1700, daily, November-February, 0900-1600, daily
Admission: Adults, 70 CZK, Students (10-26 years), 50 CZK, Children (under 10), free
How To Get There: Tram stop, Malostranske namesti (trams 12, 20, 22)