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Rushing to make the train to Karlstejn, I walked quickly, head bowed, with a quick glance to my watch ever couple of minutes. Passing down Jerusalem Street, nothing in the immediate area caught my preoccupied glances.
Taking the same route, in reverse, later that evening, at a much slower pace, I took in the astounding architecture that lies at every corner. Turning onto Jerusalem Street, with an upward glance…
“Whoa! How did I not see that this morning?”
Hard to miss for its Moorish Revival form and Art Nouveau decoration, the colorful Jubilee Synagogue of Prague looks like something out of Disney and beckons tourists to enter. Really, how could you not, especially if you are a fan of Aladdin!
The Jubilee Synagogue was built in 1906 and designed by Wilhelm Stiastny. It was named in honor of the silver Jubilee of Emperor Franz Joseph I of Austria, however, since Czechoslovakia became independent in 1918, it has been called the Jerusalem Synagogue for the street it is located on.
Open as a house of worship for over a century, except for the period of Nazi German occupation when it was used to store confiscated Jewish property, the Synagogue is now open, during part of the year, to tourists and those interested in its incredible architecture.
Not the oldest synagogue in the city, nor located in the Jewish quarter of the city, Josefov, it is noted for being the largest place of worship in the city and certainly the most colorful. Because it is sandwiched between two tenement building, it stands out all the more. After entering through the horseshoe arches on the facade and paying your admittance fee, surprisingly, you are met with a basilica type triple-nave style with two transverse wings in which churches are usually built.
My suggestion is to take a seat and take a look…up, down, forward, backward…everywhere.
The nave and the gallery are illuminated by large stained-glass windows both in the walls and the ceiling. The large central arch frames a rosette window with the Star of David. In addition, wrought chandeliers hang throughout the building. Many diverse paintings adorn the walls and a large organ is located on the western tribune. The high Ark is adorned with a vine leaf motif and the tablets of the Ten Commandments.
After your tour of the bottom level is complete, make your way upstairs to the women’s gallery, where you will find an exhibition on the synagogue, describing its history and construction, how it withstood World War II and the changes to the Jewish community in Prague throughout history.
While not on the regular Prague Jewish Quarter and Synagogue tours, find your way to the Jerusalem Synagogue. Not like anything you have ever seen, I promise you will be amazed that something like this exists in Prague…even Europe. If you are visiting during the busy summer months (when it is open) you will also appreciate that with it not being on the usual touristy paths, it is somewhat quiet. More of a reason to visit and appreciate its beauty, architecture and history!
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Jerusalem Synagogue
- http://www.synagogue.cz/cs/jerusalem-synagogue-page/
- Address: Jeruzalemska 7, Prague 1
- Hours: April 23-October 31, daily, 1300-1700
- Admission: 50 CZK (about $2.00)
- Getting There: Take a tram no. 3, 9, 14 or 24 to stop Jindrisska. Turn to Jeruzalemska Street just opposite the stop. You can also get there on foot from the Wencelas Square via Jindrisska street.
- Regular Prayer Service: Fridays at 2000 (April-September), Saturdays at 0900 (year round)