Tag: architecture

Over My Head

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

There are many unique highlights that visitors aspire to visit on a trip to the Rome.

There is one, however, that tops the list.

The Sistine Chapel.

Located in Vatican City, the smallest country in the world, the Vatican Museums receive more than six million visitors a year who come to see the seventeen museums that make up the complex. The Sistine Chapel, is the pièce de résistance.

Having been to the Vatican museums many years ago on a couple of occasions, I knew that in order to obtain entrance to the Sistine Chapel, there are many chambers and rooms to pass through and countless masterpieces to study before reaching the famed chapel.

Being the height of the summer season, the line snaked around the exterior of the building and the interior was overloaded, Walking slowly, shoulder to shoulder, we quickly realized that reaching the Sistine Chapel was going to take an extensive amount of time and much jockeying for position.

Passing through the various collections, the Gregorian Profane Museum, Ethnological Missionary Museum, Pinacoteca, Pio-Clementino Museum, Rafaello Rooms and the Chiaramonti Museum, we struggled with the heat and the incessant jostling from other people trying to see what each collection had to offer.

The one thing I realized was that I was enduring this to show my son the glorious treasure that awaited us deep in the museum. A glorious ceiling painted by Michaelangelo…and yet, as I looked here, above me, there were countless paintings over my head. Yes, many artworks on the walls, but each room’s ceilings were painted exquisitely, setting the stage for what was to come.

We admired what we could in each of the galleries, but I kept my head aimed high and marveled at what was above.

Finally, we spotted the signs directing us to the Sistine Chapel!

As we entered the chapel, I immediately snapped a picture of the ceiling and was reprimanded by one of the guards. Making our way into the throng of people passing along the outer wall, I realized that if we kept walking, we were going to leave the chapel without having had the time to inspect what had taken so long to reach. Pushing out of the moving queue, we made our way to the center of the room where there were many people standing.

Protected from guarded eyes by the people around me, I was able to capture a few photographs of the jewel of the Vatican before just taking a few moments to relish the fact that we were indeed in one of the most magnificent holy places and working chapels in the world.

The Sistine Chapel was erected between the years of 1473 and 1481 by architect Giovanni dei Dolci under the orders of Pope Sixtus IV. Although its exterior is nothing spectacular, the interior is what over 6 million visitors come to see annually. Its frescoes on the side walls were painted by Florentine Renaissance masters (1481-1483) and depict the lives of Christ and Moses and various popes. The lowest parts of the side walls are covered for ceremonial occasions, depicting events from the Gospels and the Acts of the Apostles and were designed by Raphael (1515-1519).

The most important part of the chapel are the reason all visitors leave with a crook in their necks…the frescoes by Michelangelo on the ceiling and on the west wall behind the altar. The entire collection of frescoes on the ceiling are collectively known as the Sistine Ceiling and were commissioned by Pope Julius II in 1508 depicting incidents and personages from the Old Testament. Many years later (1534-1541), Michaelangelo was commissioned again, by Pope Paul III, to paint the Last Judgment fresco on the west wall.

It is so spectacular, it is almost too much to take in and before long, we realized that we had outstayed our welcome. Reluctantly finding our way to the exit, we entered the Borgia apartments and continued our journey through the remaining parts of the museum.

To see everything that the Vatican Museums has to offer, it would take days. The Vatican Museums encompass the world’s largest private art collection (with its origins dating back to 1503) and most of what is in their possession, not on display. If you are interested in seeing as much as you can of the Vatican Museums, I would recommend starting your day early and having a plan, including a map with the items you are most interested in seeking out. Since on this day, we had hoped to see what we could of the museums, with the Sistine Chapel being our main focus, and St. Peter’s Basilica, we limited ourselves to what little we could achieve.

Me? Since I had been there before on a couple of occasions, I was content that I had seen something new. Never before had I realized what was over my head when I was so mesmerized by all that was around me. I understand that many people have that one opportunity to visit Rome and see what they can. Thankfully, I have been blessed to have had more than one chance.

If you ever find yourself in Rome for a second (or third) time, take the time to go back to the Vatican again and again. You never know what else you might find!

What you can expect to see in each of the museums:

  • Pio-Clementino Museum: Created by popes Clement XIV and Pius VI, this museum holds the most important Greek works in the Vatican.
  • Apartment of Pius V: The work of Pope Pius V, this museum contains Flemish tapestries from the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, a collection of medieval ceramics and another of medieval miniature mosaics.
  • Gallery of the Chandeliers: Roman replicas of Greek originals and enormous chandeliers from the second century A.D. decorate this elegant gallery.
  • Ethnological Missionary Museum: This museum contains works of art from all the papal missions of the world, among which there are objects originating from Tibet, Indonesia, India, the Far East, Africa and America.
  • Gallery of Maps: Carried out between the years 1580 and 1585, the beautiful maps painted in fresco on the walls of this gallery represent the Italian regions and the possessions of the Church.
  • Historical Museum – Carriage Pavilion: In this section you will find coaches, saddles, cars, and Vatican City’s first locomotive.
  • Gallery of Tapestries: Exhibition of Flemish tapestries created between 1523 and 1534.
  • Pio-Christian Museum: The collection of Christian antiquities is composed of statues, sarcophagi and archaeological ruins from the sixth century.
  • Pinacoteca: The eighteen rooms in the Pinacoteca building contain pictorial works dating from the Middle Ages until 1800.
  • Sobieski Room and the Room of the Immaculate: In both rooms you will find paintings originating in the Italian “Ottocento”.
  • Egyptian Museum: Among other pieces acquired by the popes you can find some impressive Egyptian sculptures, besides the prized sarcophagi from the third century B.C. There are also some black basalt statues originating from the Villa Adriana, which are replicas of Egyptian models.
  • Etruscan museum: This part of the museum contains elements of ceramic, bronze and gold belonging to the Etruscan civilization.
  • Chiaramonti Museum: Created thanks to Pius VII Chiaramonti, this gallery holds thousands of sculptures including portraits of emperors, images of the gods and some funeral monuments.
  • Gregorian Profane Museum: Greek and Roman sculptures are exhibited here from the first to third centuries A.D.
  • Borgia Apartment: The apartments that belonged to the Pope Alexander VI Borgia today serve as exhibition rooms for the Collection of Modern Religious Art.
  • Raphael Rooms: Rafael and his assistants decorated the apartments of the Pope Julius II.
  • Sala Della Biga: Holding court in this space is a monumental marble figure of a chariot drawn by two horses carried out in the first century A.D.

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Vatican Museums and Sistine Chapel

  • Vatican Official Website http://www.museivaticani.va/content/museivaticani/en.html
  • Sistine Chapel
  • http://www.museivaticani.va/content/museivaticani/it/collezioni/musei/cappella-sistina/storia-cappella-sistina.html
  • Address: 00120 Vatican City
  • Hours: Monday-Saturday, 0900-1800 (final entry, 1600). Every last Sunday of the month, 0900-1400 (final entry, 1230). Closed on Sundays (except the last Sunday of each month), 1 January, 11 February 19 March, 22 April, 1 May, 29 June, 14 and 15 August, 1 November, 25 and 26 December
  • Admission: No guide. Adults, 17.00€, Reduced 8.00€, Online booking fee, 4.00€. For audioguide, add additional 7.00€. Prices vary for guided tours, please consult Vatican Official website.
  • Getting There: Metro, Line A, Ottaviano stop and then a 10 minute walk. Bus lines 64, 62, 40 and 81 and Hop On/Hop Off buses drop off in Vatican City. Children under 10 travel free on all public transport. By car, the nearest parking facility is the underground five-story park, Terminal Gianicolo, a ten minute walk from Vatican City.

Important to note: Proper dress is required and visitors can be denied access even with a ticket. The following clothing items are not allowed in the Vatican Museums, the Sistine Chapel, St. Peter’s Basilica and the Vatican Gardens…mini skirts, shorts above the knee, sleeveless tops, lowcut clothing, hats. The Vatican’s dress code applies to both men and women.

Photos are not allowed in the Sistine Chapel.

Happy Valentine

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Most people visit the church of Santa Maria in Cosmedin only to see the Mouth of Truth.

Even when approaching the church, visitors often forget to admire the medieval facade with its seven open arches, seven windows and slender Romanesque belltower (added in the 12th century), as they ponder the long line snaking out from the portico.

Should we wait? Or shouldn’t we?

Whether one decides to take their place in the interminable line to place their hand between the jaws of the stone face’s mouth or not, a short visit to the church should be in order.

Santa Maria in Cosmedin was founded during the sixth century on the site of an ancient temple dedicated to Hercules Invictus which was last rebuilt in the 2nd century BC.

With its name being derived from the Greek word, kosmidioin, meaning ornamented, it would be expected that the interior would be one decorated beautifully. Though that was once the case, the minor basilica’s only surviving enhancements are some floor mosaics, a bishop’s chair, a ceremonial canopy and the medieval choir enclosure.

The church’s main draw, however, is the glass shrine with the skull of St. Valentine, patron saint of love, located on the left side of the church. Once located in the lower level crypt, the remains of the martyr, who now lends his name to the holiday we celebrate on February 14 (the day of his death) can be admired on its own altar. The skull wears a wreath of flowers and has a stenciled inscription across the skull.

Though there are ten St. Valentine’s listed in the Roman Catholic register of saints, the one whose skull resides in Santa Maria in Cosmedin church is believed to be a holy priest who assisted St. Marius in giving aid to the martyrs persecuted under Claudius II. After being summoned by the Emperor to Rome, demanded to renounce his faith and refusing, he was beaten and beheaded.

The church is quite small but make sure not to miss the ancient Crypt of Adrian I, located under the presbytery. Created between the years of 772 and 795, it is a small space divided into three naves by six columns and reminiscent of a small basilica. There is a small altar at the far end and it is believed that the crypt once housed other relics (Cirilla, Adauctus, Valentino, Adriano, Amelia, Antonino, Clemenza, Generous, Ottavio, Patrick, Olympia and St. John Baptist de Rossi). According to legend, an ancient tunnel once connected the crypt to the catacombs on the Appian Way.

Santa Maria in Cosmedin is located adjacent to Circus Maximus and just across the river from the Trastevere, the funky bohemian area of Rome filled with restaurants, shops and of course, more churches.

Make sure to include it in your day of sightseeing…then you can say you had a Happy Valentine’s Day!

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Santa Maria in Cosmedin

To Tell The Truth

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

How do you know if someone is lying?

Well, you can strap them to a lie detector and administer the test.

If you happen to be in Rome, however, you can take them to the Mouth of Truth.

Located under the portico at the church of Santa Maria in Cosmedin, the carved marble disk, also known as the La Bocca della Verita, displays the face of a man.

And he bites...if you are a liar!

Dating back to around the 1st century CE, the carving is of a humanoid face with hollow holes for eyes and a gaping mouth. Though it is not sure why it was created, it has been theorized that the medallion acted as a manhole cover, a fountain decoration or maybe even a ceremonial well cover. Possibly a pagan god, no one is entirely sure whose features the face was modeled on.

This face, however, is thought to elicit the truth from those who dare to place their hand in its mouth, as it is either the truth or a bite.

Be prepared for a long wait, the line always extends outside of the church onto the sidewalk. If you really don’t want to wait, however, you can always just take a quick picture through the bars. If you do wait, however, be prepared to tell the truth if a question is asked of you!

So, did I get a question?

My son asked me if I was having fun.

The answer?

YES!

I was getting to share all of my favorite sites in Rome with him!

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Mouth of Truth

  • Address: Piazza della Bocca della Verità, 18, 00186 Roma RM, Italy
  • Hours: 0930-1750, daily
  • Admission: free

The Monastery on the Hill

©2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Spying a nearby church tower as we stood atop the Castel Sant’Elmo, we decided that this would be our next destination. Little did I realize at the time that it was a monastery…one of my favorite places to visit!

The Certosa e Museo di San Martino is located a short distance from the Castel Sant’Elmo and is truly a treasure of Naples. Built in 1325 and then rebuilt in the 17th century, this large monastery complex was more than we ever imagined.

As we entered the courtyard, we discovered the church that we spied from Castel Sant’Elmo. This baroque sanctuary is a masterpiece decorated with a stunning marble floor, various paintings by Jusepe de Ribera, sculptures by Guiseppe Sanmartino and frescoes by Battistello Caracciolo. At the presbytery, there is an intricate marble lattice, decorated with precious stones and altar made of the same materials. Be sure to take a look up at the ceilings which are richly decorated with frescoes.

As we continued our exploration, we came to the peaceful Grand Cloister (Chiostro Grande) which contains a monk’s graveyard in one corner. This graveyard was quite fascinating with it skull topped enclosure and provided us with some great photo ops.

The Quarto del Priore, which is the apartment used for the reception of important guests, contains some relevant masterpieces including a Madonna col Bambino e San Giovannino by Pietro Bernini.

Surprisingly, we discovered that the monastery houses the Museo Nazional di San Martino which offers a look a many collections. One of my passions is collecting nativity scenes from around the world. Here, the museum showcases their extensive collection, some extremely rare, dating back to the 1800’s.

In another part of the monastery, there are many precious objects, including paintings and bronze sculptures by Neapolitan artists of the 19th century. My favorite part of the exhibit, however, was The Sezione Navale, or Maritime Museum, where many model ships and ship’s instruments were on display. The most appealing was the full-sized Great Barge, used by King Charles of Bourbon in the 1700’s. Other areas offer displays showcasing sculpture and epigraphy and a library on the second floor dedicated to the Prints and Drawings Collections with over 8,000 pieces.

A short walk through the garden was also in order, which offered an overlook to the city. It was a bit overgrown and unkempt leading us to return to the cloistered areas to enjoy the outdoors.

Though this was not the original monastery I had hoped to visit, that being Monastero di Santa Chiara, Certosa e Museo di San Martino was close by and surpassed my expectations.

If anyone is visiting Naples and making the ascent to the Castel Sant’Elmo, save time for a visit to this amazing monastery next door!

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Certosa e Museo di San Martino

  • http://www.polomusealecampania.beniculturali.it/index.php/certosa-e-museo
  • Address: Largo S. Martino, 5, 80129 Napoli NA, Italy
  • Hours: 0830-1830, Monday to Saturday. 0830-1600, Sunday. Closed Wednesday.
  • Admission: Full, 6,00€, Reduced, 3,00€
  • Getting There: Metro, Vanvitelli and then bus V1 to Piazzale San Martino. Bus: C28, C31, or C36 to Piazza Vanvitelli. Funicular: Centrale to Piazza Fuga or Montesanto to Morghen

Suddenly, Sorrento!

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Because we were so excited to experience Positano, it seemed that it took a lifetime to get there.

Because our feet hurt and we were hot and tired, it seemed like the journey back went wayyyy to quick!

Suddenly…we were back where we started, Sorrento!

Anxious to see this city, we jumped off the bus, despite our aching and sweaty body parts, and headed towards the center of town.

Discovering the Piazza Sant’Antonino, we admired the statue of Sant’Antonino Abate surrounded by palm trees and fronting Sorrento’s Town Hall. The city’s patron saint died in 626 AD and was credited with saving the life of a child swallowed by a whale and protecting Sorrento against plague and invasion. Every year on the anniversary of his death, February 14, a silver statue of Sant’Antonino is carried through the city’s streets accompanied by countless festivities. Throughout the year, respects can be paid to this important saint in the basilica dedicated to him, also in the piazza, across from his statue.

Of course we had to visit this important basilica as should anyone visiting Sorrento…just make sure not to pass it by. The city’s oldest church is quite plain from the outside and could be mistaken for another of the area’s buildings.

Erected in the 11th century on the site of an antique oratory, the basilica is rich in history, art and important artifacts. Upon entering the lobby, there are two whale ribs posted as a memento of the miracle credited to Sant’Antonino. The church’s interior exhibits rich details including columns taken from the numerous Roman country homes in the area, an 11th century gate supported by Corinthian capitals and valuable paintings by Giovanni Bernardi Lama and Giacomo Del Po, both dating back to the 1600s.

The sacristy exhibits two rare treasures, the fragments of an antique terracotta floor and a beautiful Neapolitan Christmas nativity from the 17th century.

The most interesting items in the church, however, reside in the crypt. The tomb of Sant’Antonino is located here as well as an immense collection of votive offerings donated by seamen who have escaped death on the waters where they travel. Though we were not quite sure what they were at first, we found them to be quite fascinating!

Heading toward the coast, we walked past restaurants, shops and colorful homes with the bayside park of Villa Communale in mind, to take in the sweeping views and have a refreshing drink along the waterfront.

Before we arrived, however, we encountered a wedding party emerging from the Chiostro e Chiesa di San Francesco (The San Francesco Cloister). Taking a peek inside the cloister, as the group dispersed, we discovered a peaceful garden, popular for weddings, art exhibits and classical concerts. The church, which we were unable to visit, due to the wedding, was built in the 14th century and is one of the oldest monuments in Sorrento.

Back to our original destination, we found a well manicured park with statues, paths and fountains. It is here that you can take the Sorrento Lift to access Sorrento’s beaches.

Sorrento’s beaches. Let me explain.

As we stood along the overlook, we glanced down at a maze of wharves, umbrellas and changing huts. Here, three beach clubs, Leonelli’s, Marameo and Peter’s, extend from a strip of volcanic sand offering a place for sunseekers to swim and relax. We were fascinated by this colorful concept and again, after enduring the searing August heat all day, wished that we could journey down the cliff to one of these beach clubs. With more to see and a dinner to enjoy, we sadly had to pass.

Continuing on our quest to see all that Sorrento had to offer, we left for the Sorrento Cathedral, which was scheduled to reopen after their afternoon siesta. Along the way, we passed the Sedil Dominova, located behind the main square, where local noblemen would congregate and discuss civil affairs. It is the last surviving ancient noble seat in the Campania region of Southern Italy and today, houses a working men’s club where locals meet to play cards.

Finally arriving at the Sorrento Cathedral, near the main square, we gazed upward at its beautiful, three-story clock tower made up of a base dating back to the Roman Empire. Entering this 11th century Roman Catholic cathedral (rebuilt in the Romanesque style in the 15th century), we gazed around in wonder at the beauty that surrounded us. The church, dedicated to St. James and St. Philip, is filled with beautiful inlaid wood, marble side altars dedicated to various saints, paintings by local Neapolitan artists and an 18th century Neapolitan nativity scene.

In the apse, there is a masterfully inlaid, 19th century choir and under the pulpit, a significant altarpiece by Silvestro Buono, dating back to 1573, known as La Vergine tra San Giovanni Battista e san Giovanni Evangelista (The Virgin Between St. John the Baptist and St. John the Evangelist), among other treasures. Make sure to not miss the secondary entrance with its classic rectangular portal dating back to 1478, the 10th century marble slab with a depiction of a lioness near the entrance and the baptismal font in the first chapel on the right, where Italian writer Torquato Tasso was baptized.

Most important, however, is the 17th century altar dominated by the large wooden crucifix dating from the 15th century. As I walked down the aisle, it was quite captivating, reminding parishioners of the origins of their religious beliefs.

Leaving the cathedral, we realized that we could squeeze in one more Sorrento attraction…the Bastion of Parsano, which had just reopened for the beginning of its summer evening hours. Even before the birth of Christ, Sorrento had defensive walls built to protect it and access to the city was allowed through five entrance gates. A series of towers were built to defend the gates and continued to protect Sorrento during the Middle Ages. The walls were later rebuilt for better protection and visitors to Sorrento can see the remains below the street level at Porta Parsano Nuova, where they are open for public visitation. As we walked around the bastion, we admired the stonework and marveled at how long this line of defense had stood here. It is truly amazing and one of Sorrento’s treasures.

It was finally time to seek out a place to fill our stomachs as we had a train to catch for our return to Naples.

After finally arriving back in Naples and settling down to get some sleep on my cool, clean sheets, I was able to breath a sigh of contentment. We’d had a long day, but to endure the lack of sleep, long travel day and heat of the August day to see two of the amazing towns of the Amalfi Coast…it was all worth it!

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Basilica of Sant’Antonino

Cloister of San Francesco

Villa Communale

Leonelli’s Beach Club

  • http://www.leonellisbeach.com/en/#Beach
  • Address: Spiaggia San Francesco, 80067 Sorrento NA, Italy
  • Hours: 0900-1900, April to October
  • Rental Rates: Around 12€ to rent a lounger and umbrella. Restaurant/snack bar available.

Marameo Beach Club

  • https://www.marameobeach.com/
  • Address: Spiaggia San Francesco, Via Marina Piccola, 80067 Sorrento NA, Italy
  • Hours: 0830-2400, April to October
  • Rental Rates: Around 12€ to rent a lounger and umbrella. Restaurant/snack bar available.

Peter’s Beach Club

  • https://www.petersbeachsorrento.com/
  • Address: Via S. Francesco, 80067 Sorrento NA, Italy
  • Hours: 0900-1700
  • Rental Rates: Around 12€ to rent a lounger and umbrella. Restaurant/snack bar available.

Sedil Dominova

  • Address: Via S. Cesareo, 70, 80067 Sorrento NA, Italy
  • Hours: 0900-2400

Sorrento Cathedral

  • http://www.cattedralesorrento.it/
  • Address: Via Santa Maria della Pietà, 46, 80067 Sorrento NA, Italy
  • Hours: 0830-1230 and 1630-2030. Mass schedule, Sunday and holidays, 0830, 1000, 1115 and 1800. Week days, 0830 and 1800.
  • Admission: free

Bastion of Parsano

Positively Positano!

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Are there any movies that have a scene that just “sticks” with you?

I have always loved the movie Under the Tuscan Sun. One memorable scene is when the main character, Frances, goes to Positano to meet her amore Marcello.

I had never seen any place quite like the alluring town cascading down the mountainside toward the sea. I remember thinking, that I needed to see this Italian paradise for myself!

It had been sixteen years since I had seen that movie and I had still not made it to Positano. Since my son and I were staying in Naples, we decided that we would make the journey to Positano to fulfill my dream of visiting this beautiful town on the Amalfi Coast.

Taking the same Circumvesuviana train that we had taken a couple of days before to Pompeii, we continued on, past that stop, to Sorrento. Here, we purchased tickets for the City Sightseeing bus to Positano. The winding journey along the coast was picturesque, alternating between grassy fields, small towns, mountain passes and ocean views. Thirty-five minutes later, as we drove along a cliffside road, Positano suddenly came into view…and it was breathtaking!

As we were dropped off along the main road, we headed on foot toward the town’s center. It was hard to make headway on the narrow sidewalks clogged with throngs of tourists and because every few feet, we had to stop at the many spectacular overlooks.

There it was! The quaint and colorful Italian town of Positano…defying gravity and clinging to the cliffs of the Amalfi coast!

Scanning the map we had grabbed at the Sorrento train station, we decided to head toward the town’s center. Turning on to the pedestrian friendly Viale Passitea, we ducked into the small church on the corner. Finding it to be charming, yet unassuming, our visit was short as we were anxious to see what lay in store for us further down the steep path down to the coast.

The walkway, at times, was covered by beautiful trellises covered with bougainvillea, keeping us cooler during the heat of the day, and we passed an endless number of shops selling artwork, clothing, shoes and gifts. There were boutiques, art galleries, ceramic shops and many artists working on their craft. Moving with the crowds, it was impossible to take it all in!

Eventually, we found ourselves in the heart of Positano, the seafront, with its many restaurants lining the boardwalk and its golden beach filled with hundreds of sun seekers, hoping to bring home a souvenir tan.

The Church of Santa Maria Assunta, with its iconic multi-colored dome, lies parallel to the azur waters of the Tyrrhenian Sea and the Marina Grande and from its piazza, set higher on the cliff, it is a popular spot to look out over the seaside.

Heading inside to snag a reprieve from the heat, we found the beauty of this church, dating back to the 10th century abbot it once was, to be quite spectacular.

Santa Maria Assunta was established when a Byzantine icon of the Blessed Virgin was brought to Positano by the order of the Benedictines. Part of the cargo of a sailing ship from the East, the icon was credited with a miracle. Stopped by a dead calm and unable to sail, the sailors heard a voice calling out, “Posa! Posa!” (“Put me down”). Interpreting the words to mean that that they were to head to shore, it was then that the ship was able to sail once again and headed to the small community that eventually gained it’s name, Positano, from the Virgin’s words. The Virgin was given to the residents who chose her as their patron and built a church in her honor.

After a falling into disrepair, restorations began in the late 1700’s and lasted five years when Archbishop Antonio Puoti crowned the Virgin’s icon with a golden crown. Today, the statue of the Madonna is heavily guarded in St. Stephen’s chapel but is displayed on the main altar (as it was was during our visit), on special religious occasions and carried in procession on the beach on August 15…disappointing that we would miss this important celebration a few days away.

Amidst the interior, which boasts a nave, two aisles and five arches, there are five chapels on each side. On the right, you can admire the chapels of St. Blaise, the Immaculate Conception, St. Anthony, and St. Anne followed by the Altar of the Circumcision on the right end. Displayed here is the rare painting, Circumcision by Fabrizio Santafede dating back to 1599.

“Circumcision” by Fabrizio Santafede

Above the high altar is the Byzantine icon of the Blessed Virgin. To the right, is the Chapel of St. Stephen, which in addition to usually housing the Madonna statue, also displays one of the most valuable works of art in the Amalfi Coast; the embossed silver reliquary bust of St. Vito, dating back to the 16th century. The chapel also contains relics of other martyrs.

The Chapel of St. Stephen
The Bust of St. Vitus

Make sure not to miss the two niches on each side of the apse which house Our Lady of Sorrows on the right and a valuable Christ at the column (1798) on the left, the chapel of the Blessed Sacrament to the left of the high altar and the altar of Our Lady of Mount Carmel which contains a beautiful painting from the Chartreuse of Serra San Bruno in Calabria. The chapels of the Crucifixion, the Annunciation, St. Vito and St. Nicholas of Bari are located along the left aisle.

When exiting the church, take a glance upwards at the majestic organ above the central door in the choir and check out the baptismal font in the right corner.

There are many treasures throughout this historic church and you should allow yourself enough time to wander freely. Even outside, you can take note of the belltower, which was built in 1707, and above the belltower door a medieval bas-relief portraying the seven fish and a wolf mermaid. Above the relief, a stone dating back to 1902, remembers Flavio Gioia of Positano, the inventor of the compass.

Heading toward the Spiaggia Grand (Big Beach), it was tempting to shed out outer layers for a quick, refreshing dip, however, we didn’t want to shell out money for umbrellas on the private side (left) for such a short time and the public side (right) was quite congested. Besides, if we got all wet and sandy, it would make the rest of our afternoon and evening, which was to include dinner in Sorrento, a bit uncomfortable.

So…we opted for gelato instead!

After our frosty treat, we glanced out at three of the thirty watchtowers that once protected the Amalfi coast from Saracen pirates. These towers were all within sight of each other and communication warning of danger was in the form of smoke signals.

We then headed west along the Via Positanesi D’America, a small lane that runs along the coast towards the Positano’s small beach, Fornillo, where the locals go to escape the tourist crowds. It was hot, but we were rewarded with beautiful views of the azur waters and a close-up view of the Torre Trasita (16th century), one of the historical watchtowers, located on the rocky cliff. Today, this tower operates as a guesthouse and rooms can be rented by the night for a unique experience on the Amalfi Coast.

Fornillo Beach
Fornillo Beach

Realizing that much of our day had flown by, it was time to head back to the bus stop and to Sorrento.

Though there are so many beautiful towns to explore past Positano (Praiano, Amalfi, Ravello), time was not on our side. If we wanted to discover Sorrento, it was time to say arrivederci to Positano.

Though Positano was positively stunning and we enjoyed our visit, I do have to admit that it was not quite as I envisioned because I had first experienced it from a cinematic point of view…no crowds, no soul-sucking summertime heat, no Marcello… Although a little disillusioned, I did have to stop and remind myself that we were visiting the Amalfi Coast during one of the most busy times of the year. Getting a taste of it made me realize what it could be at another time.

So, yes, it was not goodbye…it was definitely until I see Positano again!

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City Sightseeing Italy Coast to Coast Bus

  • https://www.city-sightseeing.it/en/amalfi-coast/
  • Pickup point Sorrento, Piazza di Curtis, behind the Circumvesuviana train station. Drop off in Positano is Spoda bus stop.
  • Fare: The 1st “Coast to Coast” line ticket is priced at €10.00 per person, one way. Return ticket can be purchased for €6.00 by showing the €10.00 ticket purchased on the same day. If you need to other trips on the same day the cost will always be €6.00.

Church of Santa Maria Assunta

Torre Trasita

The Grand Finale

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Naxos was such an unexpected pleasure.

When we had made the decision to visit a couple of the Greek islands, Naxos was definitely not on my radar. If it had not been for the suggestion of a friend, I am not even sure that we would have chosen it over the many others that dot the Aegean Sea.

That being said, we had done and seen most of what we had set out to and enjoyed every bit of it, however, I still felt as though there was more to be discovered.

After our trip to the islet of Palatia to see Apollo’s Temple, my husband and son decided to head to the hotel for a nap before our ferry’s departure that afternoon. Camera in hand, I headed back into the alleys and pathways to see what more I could find in Naxos’ Old Town.

Now when I think back to our time in Naxos, I fondly remember the beautiful mountains and beaches, but what stands out in my mind is the intricacies of the Old Town. I absolutely adored just wandering the narrow passageways and picturesque harbor, discovering a photo around every corner.

As I headed past the port to make my way back up the hill, I noticed a modest, white-washed church standing alone on a small island. Panagia Myrtidiotissa is a small chapel built by the fishermen of Tsirigo and Kythira who survived a storm outside of Naxos and is only accessible by boat. As I sat on a bench, wishing I could make my way there, I watched a fisherman work on his vessel, all the while under the protecting eye of this historic church. If you happen to be in Naxos on September 24, make sure to not miss the celebratory feast honoring the church and the mariners of the island.

Knowing that we had missed the Catholic Church’s opening times the day before, I headed up the hill, in that direction, and discovered that I was still a bit early.

Around the corner, however, I noticed a sign directing me to the Casazza Chapel or the Chapel of the Duke of Naxos (also known as the Chapel of Sanoudos). Only having to wait a few minutes for its opening, I entered a beautifully decorated structure. Since I wasn’t sure of the history of the chapel, it was fortunate that the woman who unlocked the doors for us was an American and we could speak freely. She explained that the chapel was built in the 13th or 14th century by Duke Markos Sanoudos and continued to operate as the chapel of all Dukes of Naxos. Completed in 1680, the chapel was dedicated to the Immaculate Conception of the Virgin and later operated as the church of the Jesuits upon their arrival.

Leaving the Chapel of the Duke of Naxos, I passed near a doorway where an older gentleman was sitting. He beckoned to me and invited me in. Not sure what I was being invited to see (and a little nervous), I entered and found a small Orthodox chapel. It was colorful and well appointed even though occupying such a tiny space. Though I never learned what this chapel was, as he did not speak English, I could tell that he was proud of it and as I watched, he continued to invited all passersby to step in and admire the chapel.

Finally, making my way back to the cathedral in the central square, I found it open and entered eagerly. Though the church is relatively small, it is the most important temple of the castle in Naxos.

Exhibiting Byzantine and Western influences, the cathedral was built in the 13th century. There are some small chapels within the five-aisled, three domed structure and the floor is constructed of marble embossed with the coat of arms of the Duke of Naxos. The central aisle boasts an wood altar crafted by Tagiadoroi from Chios from 1774 and a painting of the Panagia Eleousa (Our Lady the Merciful) dating from the 11th or 12th century.

As you examine the outside of the cathedral, make sure to take note of the four coats of arms, including those of Markos Sanoudos, and the striking bell tower constructed in 1963 by John Filippoti.

Other notable religious buildings in the area include the building of the Catholic Archdiocese (13th century) which houses a collection of architectural parts, relics, folklore material, engravings, icons and ecclesiastical utensils, the old Jesuit Commercial School and the old Ursaline Academy for Girls.

Continuing my adventure through the maze of walkways and paths of the Old Town, I meandered slowly examining stairways, door knockers, signs, souvenirs, artwork, cafes, archways and even found an art gallery showcasing the work of my old friend, Yanni Souvatzoglou, an Athens sculpture artist.

As time dissolved quickly, I knew that I would have to return to the hotel so that we could catch our ferry back to Athens, however, there was just enough time to see one last thing…the Orthodox Cathedral.

The Orthodox Cathedral of Naxos was constructed in 1787 on the site of a smaller church and is dedicated to Zoodochos Pigi, the life-giving Virgin Mary. The cathedral was constructed using materials from other buildings including some ancient temples and it is said that the solid granite pillars were brought from the ruins of Delos.

As I entered the cathedral, I breathed in deeply, taking in the extravagance before me. The excitement of capturing it all was short-lived as I was told that photography was not allowed.

A few, well-placed shots were definitely going to be taken and I made my way around the church admiring the intricate wall paintings and the beautiful icons dating back to Turkish times as well as the Gospel Book, which according to custom, was a present from Catherine the Great of Russia.

Finally, it was time for our time in Naxos to come to an end. As we walked through the town toward the ferry terminal, I took one last look around at the city, the boats in the harbor and the fresh catch of the day drying in the sun.

We would definitely miss this Greek Island that we had grown to love during our short stay. Coming here was definitely unexpected but after seeking out many of the things that make it so special, we were extremely happy that we had taken the chance.

Unexpected and now not unexplored, by us anyway!

The grand finale just whetted our appetite for more…we will be back!

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Panagia Myrtidiotissa

  • Address: Naxos Port, Naxos Town 843 00, Greece
  • Hours: unknown
  • Admission: free

Chapel of the Duke of Naxos (also known as the Chapel of Sanoudos or Casazza Chapel )

Catholic Cathedral of Naxos

Orthodox Cathedral of Naxos

Yanni Souvatzoglou

Apollo’s Doorway

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Cruising into the Naxos harbor, you don’t have to go very far to see a piece of Greek history and architecture.

Greeting visitors to its island, is the Portara, the portal to the temple of Apollo, standing on the islet of Palatia.

The temple’s construction was started around 530 BC, when Lygdamis, the tyrant of Naxos, made the decision to build the highest and most magnificent building in all of Greece devoted to the honor of Apollo, the Greek God and protector of music and poets. After war broke out, work was halted and never completed.

After the temple’s marble was harvested for the Castle of Naxos, the doorway was deemed too heavy to dismantle and relocate, leaving a prodigious example of early Greek architecture to be studied and enjoyed by both visitors and locals for thousands of years to come.

Though we had spied the beautiful doorway as our ferry sailed into port, it wasn’t until our last day in Naxos that we finally made the walk across the causeway that connects the islet to Naxos.

Making our way up the steep path, we were eager to reach the pinnacle, but it was also essential to stop and enjoy the views of the blue Naxian waters, nearby Paros and the Naxian coastline in the distance.

As we made the summit, the remains of the temple spread out all around us with the Portara in the centrum. Staring through this vestibule at the white-washed city beyond it, I wondered if we should have come here during the evenings when we spied large numbers of visitors holding court awaiting the setting sun’s final descent beyond the island of Paros.

Yes, I think we should have.

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Portara Gate/Temple of Apollo

  • Address: Naxos 843 00, Greece
  • Hours: 24 hours, daily
  • Admission: free

The Birthplace of Democracy

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Coming off of our exploration of the Hill of the Muses or Philapappou Hill, we continued walking the paths of the city’s alluring green space, making our way from one hill to the next…the Pnyx.

The birthplace of democracy.

From 508 BC, Pnyx Hill was the meeting place of the Democratic Assembly. Citizens assembled here ten times a year to make political decisions and take note of the orators speeches, including those of Aristides, Demosthenes, Pericles and Themistocles.

As I walked from Philapappou Hill, I encountered a small rocky hill surrounded by parkland. A large flat platform of eroded stone was set to one side with steps carved into the slope. The podium, or Bema, offered a raised area for leaders to address the crowds who were seated in a semicircle, first on the ground and then later on wooden benches which were installed to accommodate the growing crowds.

The first question posed to the crowd was always an open invitation, “Tis agoreuein Bouletai?”

“Who wishes to speak to the assembly?”

As the acceptance of democracy spread, crowds grew from 5,000 to more than 13,000, finally outgrowing the Pnyx and moving to the Theater of Dionysus at the base of the Acropolis.

The Bema is cordoned off for protection, however, make sure to climb to the top area where you can find the former locations of the Sanctuary of Zeus Hypsistos, the Altar of Zeus Agoraios and Meton’s Solar Clock.

As we continued on toward the exit of the Pnyx, we located the retaining Wall of Pnyx built during the Hellenistic period and which offered protection to the area. Other items of interest, not to be missed, are the Sanctuary of Pan and the Fountain of Pnyx.

The Sanctuary of Pan was a religious shrine on the south slope. Not one to display monumental or architectural embellishments, it was a simple chamber which exhibited a relief, representing semi-God Pan, a naked Nymph and a dog. Outside of the doorway of the shrine, an ancient mosaic is protected by plexiglass.

Sanctuary of Pan

The Fountain of Pnyx is also located nearby, and dates back to the 6th century. This fountain is a rock-carved cistern which collected and stored water for the city of Athens. Though you are unable to view it up close, the chamber is covered with a mosaic floor.

Though we viewed both of these from outside the park’s gates, this seemed to offer the best viewing area.

Since the both hills, Philapappou and Pnyx, are connected, make sure to continue your walk to encounter all that both have to offer. You can even continue up to Nymph Hill which houses the National Observatory during the evening hours.

If time is not of the essence and you’ve seen Athen’s major sights, it is worth the time to take a leisurely walk and encounter many of Athens off-the-beaten-track bits of history.

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Pnyx Hill

  • Address: Athens 117 41, Greece
  • Hours: 24 hours, daily
  • Admission: free
  • Getting There: Metro, Thission stop
  • Sanctuary of Pan
  • Address: Apostolou Pavlou 1, Athina 118 51, Greece
  • Hours: 24 hours, daily
  • Admission: free
  • Getting There: Metro, Thission stop

Fountain of Pnyx

  • Address: Apostolou Pavlou, Athina 118 51, Greece
  • Hours: 24 hours, daily
  • Admission: free
  • Getting There: Metro, Thission stop

The Hill Of the Muses

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Socrates.

One of the most widely recognized classical Greek philosophers in history, he was also known as the founder of Western philosophy. It was his unique teachings and thoughts, however, that led to his demise. In 399 BC, Socrates went on trial and was found guilty of corruption and impiety. After being imprisoned, he was sentenced to death by poison.

Searching a map of Athens, I noticed on Philapappou Hill (also known as the Hill of the Muses), a landmark noting the location of the Prison of Socrates. Since I had never had the opportunity to walk to the top of this hill to inspect the monument to Philapappou (that I had seen from the nearby Acropolis) I decided that it would be a good destination for that day and being able to search out the location of this historical prison would be a bonus.

Heading up the pedestrian friendly Dionysiou Areopagitou street, I entered the park gates and headed up the marble paved pathways. Welcoming the shady pine-covered trails, I looked for signs leading to my destinations. There were none, however, finding the first item on my list was not all that difficult as it seemed that most other tourists were headed that way.

The Prison of Socrates was nothing more than a cave with iron bars…still, it was interesting to think that Socrates spent his last days here. Or did he?

Though this is a popular spot for tour guides to take tourists and prattle on and on about Socrates last days, it has been brought to light that these openings within the rock are probably no more than the remains of an ancient Mycenaean building. The real location of the philosopher’s prison was probably located near the Ancient Agora, at the foot of the Acropolis. Though no one is sure, it is interesting to visit this location and imagine poor Socrates passing the time behind the iron gates before his demise.

Continuing on, we followed the trail, climbing higher and higher up the steep rocky paths. As we came to a bend in our route, we moved out onto an opening and a rock outcropping. Here, we got our first views of the Acropolis from a different perspective. Having been to the Acropolis on multiple occasions, seen it from below in the Plaka and from afar from my hotel’s rooftop terrace, it was something to see from an adjacent hill. As we stared in wonder, we also noticed the amazing views to be gotten of Mount Lycabettus and the Saronic Gulf and I imagined that it would be an amazing location to take in the sunset.

Climbing higher, we finally reached the pinnacle of our ascent where the Monument to Philapappou, an ancient Greek mausoleum dedicated to Gaius Antiochus Epiphanes Philopappos (65-116 AD), rests. A prince from the Kingdom of Commagene, Philopappos was highly respected and one of the greatest benefactors of the city.

Upon his death, which caused great grief to not only his family, but also to the citizens of Athens, it was decided that a tomb would be erected on Muses Hill. Built on the same site where 6th century poet and mystical seer, Museaios was entombed, the two story marble structure is an elaborately carved structure on par with the Acropolis…its location showing his great status within the city.

Following the main path, past the Philapappou Monument, we found the Shrine of the Muses, cut into the rock face just below the top of the hill. This shrine was created in honor of the goddesses of creative inspiration. Philapappou Hill is also known as the Hill of the Muses for it being the home of the nine muses of Greek mythology.

Heading down the hill, we finally came to the Church of Agios Dimitrios Loumbardiaris, a 15th century Byzantine church. By now, everyone should know how much I love churches and of course, I was thrilled to unexpectedly find this charming chapel during the midst of our exploration of Philapappou Hill. Though it offered a peaceful place to rest for a moment, I was frustrated to find the church locked. I was especially disappointed later when I learned that this church is decorated with beautiful frescoes. I also learned that its surname, “Loumbardiaris” (the Bomardier) was earned as it was saved by a miracle in 1658 when the Turkish commander of the Acropolis, Yusuf, was planning to bomb the church from the Propylaea. The following day, as they prepared to attack, a lightening strike hit the gunpowder magazine, causing an explosion which killed Yusuf and his entire family.

Since I was unable to examine the interior of this historical structure, I made myself content to walk around and survey its exterior architectural features. A spectacular find that I will certainly return to see again!

A good part of our morning had been fulfilled with the exploration of Philapappou Hill. There was much more as two nearby hills are connected to this beautiful green space within the city of Athens and we decided to continue our excursion.

What else would we find?

If you are in the area and find yourself with time before or after your visit to the Acropolis, make the short walk to Philapappou Hill and discover the treasures scattered around this beautiful promontory. Have a picnic, enjoy the views and maybe even the sunset!

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Filopappos Hill

  • Address: Thissio, Athens, 104 38 Athens, Greece
  • Hours: 24 hours, daily
  • Admission: free

The Prison of Socrates

  • Address: Filapappou Hill, 43, Rovertou Galli 39, Athens 117 41
  • Hours: 24 hours, daily
  • Admission: free
  • Getting There: Metro, Akropoli station

Church of Agios Dimitrios Loumbardiaris